ELDAR

Version 1.2a

WAVE SERPENT GRAV TRANSPORT ELDAR WAVE SERPENT TRANSPORT A CONVERSION KIT USING A GAMES WORKSHOP FALCON GRAV TANK by Roy Bann

The Wave Serpent Prototype

My original sketch for the Wave Serpent model

TOOL S AND MA TERIAL S OOLS MATERIAL TERIALS Required Materials Games Workshop Eldar Falcon Grav Tank X 1 Games Workshop shuriken cannon piece from Eldar Shrieker Jetbike X 2 .040” (1mm) thick 6”x12” polystyrene sheet X 1 .020” (0.5mm) 6”x12” thick polystyrene sheet X 1 .10” (2.5mm) diameter polystyrene solid rod or solid half round X 1 Optional Materials ¾” diameter (approximate) extra strength magnets X 4 ½” (approximate) diameter extra strength magnets X 2 ¾” diameter steel washer or small sheet of thin steel X 1 brass rods (for reinforcing joints) Suggested Tools modeling knife (suggest using #16 blades to cut polystyrene) plastic cement super glue epoxy glue sand paper and/or files cutting board jewelers saw w/ fine-tooth blade modeling putty (Kneadatite, Milliput, or type that you are use to) pin vise and drill bits electric drill and drill bits © All rights reserved. No challenge is made to copyrights/trademarks owned by Games Workshop, Inc. and are used without permission.

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WAVE SERPENT GRAV TRANSPORT GENERAL NO TES NOTES 1. This is a medium difficulty conversion kit. Please read and understand all of the instructions carefully before actually doing any of the work. Please note: this kit includes some optional steps to add further detail, strength, and portability of the model that need not be followed if you don’t want that particular option. 2. Use caution when cutting the templates or the polystyrene sheets. Always use a new sharp blade in your holder and cut away from yourself. I suggest using a #16 blade instead of the typical #11 blade as I find it easier to cut polystyrene with it and the smaller blade offers me more control as well as resists tip breakage. 3. To use your templates, you may use either of the following methods. First you can cut out the shapes from the included cardstock template. Using the template, trace the shapes onto the polystyrene sheets and cut them out. Second, you may photocopy the templates onto a sheet of paper and temporarily glue them directly to the polystyrene sheets. Use the copy as your pencil line and cut the shapes out. For either method (except for a few instances, as noted in the instructions), cut to the outside edge of the outline. This way, you have a little room for variation in Falcon model castings and room for error correction. 4. Please be sure that you are in a well-ventilated area when you are gluing your model together. Plastic cement can contain harmful fumes and may cause harm if used improperly. Use your glue sparingly but be sure you are using enough to continuously bond the items together. Do not over-glue areas as most plastic cement glues actually melt the plastic to weld them together. Super glues can also be used to join the plastic parts, but although the joints will be stronger, they will be brittle and can easily be snapped apart. 5. Before gluing any parts together or to your Falcon, dry-fit them to insure a good clean fit with no gaps. Lightly sand as required. Also please note that there are 2 different thickness of polystyrene plastic called for in this kit. Be aware of which thickness is specified in the instructions before you start cutting. 6. In the instructions below, when referring to a part on the template, it will be IN ALL CAPS. When referring to a part from the Falcon model kit, it will be IN CAPS AND ITALICS. For ease of reference, I will use the same names for the Falcon parts as is shown on the Falcon’s Assembly Instructions that came with the model whenever possible.

INSTRUCTIONS PAR T 1 –WING EXTENSION ASSEMBLY ART This part describes the construction of the wing extensions that are the main distinguishing feature between Wave Serpents and the Falcons. This is the most difficult part of the whole assembly, so take your time during this step. 1. Cut out the WING EXTENSION from 1mm thick polystyrene. 2. OPTION – If you want to increase the amount of gluing surface for the WING EXTENSION, follow this step. Cut out the BACK-UP BAR from .5mm thick polystyrene. Glue to the bottom outside edge of the

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MAIN HULL wing of the Falcon so that half the width of the bar is exposed. Align the back end of the bar so it aligns with point A on figure 1. 3. Glue the WING EXTENSION to the wing of the MAIN HULL of the Falcon, flushing its thickness to the bottom of the wing (and flat against the WING EXTENSION BACK-UP BAR, if used). Carefully bend and glue a section at a time as required to match the shape of the wing. Align the back end of the WING EXTENSION to point A on figure 1. Also make sure that the vertexes of the stepped wing pattern roughly align with the panel lines on the MAIN HULL. 4. Cut out the bottom WING PANEL from .5mm thick polystyrene. Do not cut all the panels a att once once.. Adjust the WING PANEL as required to align the MAIN HULL panel lines with the cut line. Glue. Repeat for all WING PANEL pieces. Note: you may want to round over the edges along the panel grooves as well as the outside edge to create a more finished look to the model.

D C

FIGURE 1

E

B

F

A

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 for the other WING EXTENSION on the other side of the Falcon. 6. OPTION – Cut out 10 of the STABILIZER BASEs from .5mm thick polystyrene. Cut out 5 STABILIZER RODs from the 2.5mm polystyrene rod, 2 at the shorter length, 3 at the longer length. Sand down each of the rods to half its starting diameter. Alternatively, you can use a STABILIZER BASE half-round rod. Sand each rod end so that it is rounded. Either sand down or STABILIZER cut in each end a rabbet along the flat edge of the rod, distance equal to ½ ROD the length of the STABILIZER BASE, so that the rod will sit flush with the STABILIZER BASEs in place. Glue a STABILIZER BASE to each side of the STABILIZER ROD in the rabbets (see figure 2). Glue on the completed stabilizers to span across from the MAIN HULL wing panels to the WING EXTENSION panels, centering them on the panels themselves. From figure FIGURE 2 1, glue the 2 shorter stabilizers at points B and C, and the 3 longer ones at points D, E and F.

PAR T 2 – SHURIKEN CATAPULT FRONT MOUNT ART This part details the bridge between the front wings of the Wave Serpent. Although not necessarily as faithful to the Epic scale model, I feel that it is an acceptable substitution and makes the Wave Serpent more in line with Eldar vehicle construction (in my own opinion, anyway). 1. Cut out the MOUNT BASE and the MOUNT BASE SIDE PANELS from 1mm thick polystyrene. Transfer the tick marks in on the template and draw lines in pencil connecting them across the bottom of the MOUNT BASE. These lines will serve as spacing guides for gluing on the FRONT MOUNT FINS later in step 3. 2. Glue the MOUNT BASE SIDE PANELS to the MOUNT BASE, one on each side with the tapered end toward the front. Dry-fit and trim this piece to fit between the LOWER HULL’s wings at point A on figure 4. Cut out the 3 pieces (2 medium pieces and 1 long piece) for the FRONT MOUNT BACK from .5mm thick polystyrene. Glue one of the medium pieces perpendicular to the MOUNT BASE, starting from the middle and along the back edge, working out to the side. This piece is intentionally cut longer than necessary for ease of installation. Once in place and the glue sufficiently dried, trim the piece flush with the MOUNT BASE SIDE. Repeat in the opposite direction. Glue the long piece from end to end over the medium pieces, carefully bending it so it is one continuous piece across the surface. See figure 3 for recommended gluing pattern.

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FRONT MOUNT BASE

FRONT MOUNT BACK (MED)

FRONT MOUNT BACK (LONG)

FIGURE 3

3. Cut out the FRONT MOUNT FINS blank from 1mm thick polystyrene. This piece is intentionally longer than required as it is not a single piece; rather it will be cut to length as described as follows. On the underside, measure the distance from the MOUNT BASE BACK to the front of the MOUNT BASE along the pencil reference lines you made in step 1. Transfer this measurement to the FRONT MOUNT FINS blank and the first fin cut to length. On the front edge of this piece, transfer the measurement from the template marked FRONT, connect this point to the back top edge, and cut along this line to create a trapezoidal piece. Glue the square edges to the top and back along the corresponding reference line. Repeat for all reference lines. 4. Cut out the FRONT MOUNT PANEL from .5mm thick polystyrene. Cut each section out along the middle of the templa te lines instead of on the outside edge to allow for minor corrections for the panel grooves. template Cut, fit and glue each piece down separately and maintain a consistent groove spacing with its adjacent panels. Repeat for all panel pieces. Note: you may want to round over the edges along the panel grooves as well as the outside edges to create a more finished look to the model. 5. Remove the TWIN SHURIKEN CATAPULTS and its SUPPORT from their sprue. Cut the mounting nub off the SUPPORT flush with its round base. Assemble the TWIN SHURIKEN CATAPULTS to its SUPPORT. Glue this piece on the bottom of the MOUNT BASE in the opening left by the FRONT MOUNT FINS, facing forward. This, unfortunately, does not allow it to swivel from side to side, but I find that this is not as critical as a good solid connection.

B

6. Glue the completed SHURIKEN CATAPULT FRONT MOUNT between the LOWER HULL’s wings at point A on figure 4. Align it so that it is 2mm below the top A edge (to allow space for the MAIN HULL to be glued in place) and flush to the back edge of flat surface FIGURE 4 of the LOWER HULL’s wing.

PAR T 3 – TURRET ASSEMBLY MODIFICATIONS ART The fangs of a Wave Serpent, the turret is armed with twin-linked shuriken cannons. I have found out (to the chagrin of my opponents) that Wave Serpents make an extremely good anti-vehicle weapon, especially to side/rear armor! Heavy 3, strength 6 weapons that are twin-linked! 1. Assemble the TURRET ASSEMBLY without the TURRET WEAPON ASSEMBLY. Trim off the weapon assembly supports on either side of the turret. Cut out the 2 TURRET PANELS from .5mm thick polystyrene. Glue one over each of the holes left by the removal of the weapon assembly support. . Note: you may want to round over the edges along the panel edge to create a more finished look to the model. 2. OPTION – If you want your weapon turret to be removable, follow this step. Do not glue the TURRET MOUNT to the bottom of the turret shaft. Cut a circle out of thin sheet steel the same size as the inside diameter of the bottom of the TURRET BASE. Using an electric drill, drill a hole through the center of the steel circle to allow the turret shaft to pass through it. Alternatively, you may also use a steel washer. Cut thin strips of polystyrene with a width equal to the depth of the circular extension of the TURRET BASE minus the thickness of the steel circle/washer. It is important to get this step correct so that the steel circle/washer will sit flush with the bottom of the circular extension. Glue the strips within the circular extension at right angles to the bottom of the base and create a triangle. Using super glue, glue the steel circle/washer to the triangle, centering the hole on the turret shaft. This will T 5 – ASSEMBLING THE provide a surface for magnets to be attracted to, which are installed in PAR ART WAVE SERPENT, step 3. 3. This step requires both of the shuriken cannons pieces (referred to as CANNON 1 and CANNON 2). Cut CANNON 1 at points A, B and C as shown on figure 5a. Cut CANNON 2 at points D and E as shown on

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figure 5b. Each figure gives names to the cut parts that will be used to describe the assembly of the twin-linked shuriken cannons. For this assembly, you should pin all your joints for strength. The SENSOR POD is flipped over and glued at 90 degrees to the top of the LEFT CANNON as shown in figure 5c. Rotate the FEED MECHANISM so the ammo feeds are on top, and glue to side of the LEFT CANNON (refer to figure 5c). Rotate the RIGHT CANNON over so the front sites are point up and glue to the FEED MECHANISM. The finished product should look like figure 5c and 5d, top and side views

C

D

LEFT CANNON

B

E

A

RIGHT CANNON

SENSOR POD

FIGURE 4b - CANNON 2 BOTTOM VIEW

FIGURE 4a - CANNON 1 TOP VIEW SENSOR POD ON EDGE

FEED MECHANISM

LEFT CANNON RIGHT CANNON

LEFT & RIGHT CANNONS

SENSOR POD

FEED MECHANISM

FIGURE 4d - SIDE VIEW

FIGURE 4c - TOP VIEW

respectively. 4. Cut out 2 CANNON SUPPORTs from 1mm thick polystyrene. Glue them together and then glue to the underside of the FEED MECHANISM, just behind the RIGHT CANNON. Glue the twin-linked shuriken cannons to the sloped surface to the left of the canopy on the TURRET CARAPACE at point B on figure 3. You may need to adjust the location and/or size of this piece so that the twin linked shuriken cannons will sit level.

PAR T 4 – OPTIONAL EXTENDED CREW COMPARTMENT ART All that firepower and it can carry a full compliment of troops too! This part describes the assembly for an extension of the crew compartment. If you do not want to extend it, you may skip this part and go onto PAR T 5 – ASSEMBLING THE WAVE SERPENT. ART 1. Cut out 2 COMPARTMENT EXTENSIONs and the EXTENSION BOTTOM from 1mm thick polystyrene. 2. Butt-joint and glue the COMPARTMENT EXTENSION to the REAR CREW COMPARTMENT, one on each side. Between the extensions, glue the EXTENSION BOTTOM to each side and to the REAR CREW COMPARTMENT . It is recommended that you glue the REAR HATCH to the REAR CREW COMPARTMENT for rigidity, though this is not necessary. The COMPARTMENT TOP and the COMPARTMENT PANELS need to be put on after the rest of the crew compartment is glued onto the T 5 – ASSEMBLING THE WAVE SERPENT, step 5. body of the Wave Serpent and will be covered in PAR ART

PAR T 5 – ASSEMBLING THE WAVE SERPENT ART And now down to the nitty-gritty of the assembling the model. The following steps direct you on the altered assembly for the Wave Serpent as well as a few optional steps as well. Otherwise, follow the assembly instructions of the Falcon. 1. Assemble the LOWER HULL and ENGINE. Do not g glue lue the SENSOR ARRAY to the bottom of the LOWER HULL. The SENSOR ARRAY is placed onto the sloped panel on the right side of the pilot’s cockpit on the MAIN HULL (point A on figure 6). Trim or sand the base of the array so that sits level before you glue it in place.

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2. OPTION – If you want a removable base, follow this step. Cut out 2 STAND BASEs and 2 STAND SIDEs from 1mm thick. Cut out the STAND FRONT and STAND BACK from .5mm thick polystyrene. Glue the 2 STAND BASEs together. Glue the front and back panels between the side panels to form the BASE STAND. Glue the two ½” diameter magnets together and glue it flush to the top of the BASE STAND. I recommend A using epoxy glue to glue the magnets together as well as the magnets to the BASE STAND. Center and glue the BASE STAND to the BASE. The top of the BASE STAND should fit between the ribs on the outside bottom of the crew compartment on the LOWER HULL. On the inside bottom of the LOWER HULL, remove the protruding rib on the floor of the crew compartment. Glue together 2 of the ¾” diameter magnets and then glue them inside the crew FIGURE 6 compartment right up against the front wall. Again, I suggest using epoxy glue. Remember emember,, opposites attract! Glue the correct side of the magnets down, as if it is the wrong side down, your base will not stick to your Wave Serpent. 3. OPTION – If you opted to make your turret removable, follow this step. On the underside of the MAIN HULL, glue 2 of the ¾” diameter magnets near the hole for the turret shaft, one on each side. I recommend using epoxy glue, as you don’t want the magnets to come loose after you assembled your Wave Serpent. You will need to remove the ‘roll cage bars’ on the top of the ENGINE as these will interfere with the MAIN HULL and ENGINE being glued together with these magnets in place. 4. Glue the LOWER HULL ASSEMBLY to the MAIN HULL. Glue on the CREW COMPARTMENT. 5. OPTION – If you opted for the EXTENDED CREW COMPARTMENT, follow this step. Glue on the EXTENDED CREW COMPARTMENT to the back of the LOWER HULL ASSEMBLY and to the top of the MAIN HULL. Cut out the COMPARTMENT TOP from 1mm thick polystyrene. Glue on the COMPARTMENT TOP to the top of the EXTENDED CREW COMPARTMENT and to the edge of the MAIN HULL. Cut out the COMPARTMENT PANELS from .5mm thick polystyrene. Cut each section out along the middle of the templa te lines instead of on the outside edge to allow for minor corrections for the panel grooves. template Cut, fit, trim and glue each piece down separately and maintain a consistent groove spacing with its adjacent panels. Repeat for all panel pieces. Note: you may want to round over the edges along the panel grooves as well as the outside edges to create a more finished look to the model. As there is a thickness to the back edge of the MAIN HULL, you may want to sand it down or use modeling putty to smooth over the gaps between it and the COMPARTMENT PANELS. Also, you may want to putty and/or round over the edges of the COMPARTMENT PANELS, TOP, and EXTENSIONS, making it more in line with the slickness of Eldar vehicles. And that’s it! You are now a proud owner of new Wave Serpent. After a coat of paint you will be ready to terrorize your opponents! Build a second or third one and really put the fear of the Eldar into them. I thank you for your purchase of this kit and hoped you enjoyed building it. As this is my first attempt at a kit, your comments, either good or bad, on the instructions, figures, template, model, or website are much appreciated. In this way, I can assure better quality and a kit worthy of purchase by any gamer. If I use your comment, I will send you a free copy of the updated version and note you down as a contributor to the kit’s design. Please check my site often for Q&A’s, tips,tricks, and site updates. Also, if you’ve completed your kit, send me a picutre of it! I’d like to start an web gallery of Wave Serpents built from the kit. Email me for details. Thanks again! Roy Bann [email protected] http://home.earthlink.net/~roybann/

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ALIGN W/ POINT A FIGURE 1

COMPARTMENT EXTENSION

WING EXTENSION

BACK-UP BAR

WING PANELS

BOTTOM

EXTENSION BOTTOM

only.

COMPARTMENT TOP

MOUNT BASE SIDE PANELS

FRONT MOUNT BACK (MED)

TOWARDS BACK

TOWARDS FRONT

TOWARDS FRONT

FRONT MOUNT PANELS

TOWARDS BACK

STAND SIDE

STAND BACK

MOUNT BASE

REFERENCE MARKS - DO NOT CUT OUT

FRONT MOUNT FINS BLANK

FRONT

FRONT MOUNT BACK (LONG)

COMPARTMENT PANELS

CANNON SUPPORT

STAND FRONT

STAND BASE

STABILIZER BASE

TURRET PANELS

TOP

STABILIZER RODS

SHORT

by Roy Bann Version 1.12a © All rights reserved. Permission granted to photocopy for personal use

WAVE SERPENT TEMPLATE

LONG