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A Record of Mountain Adventure and Scientific Observation by Members of the Alpine Club EDITED BY H. E. G. TYNDALE
VOL.L
NOVEMBER 1938
No. 257
CONTENTS THE TREASURES OF THE HmiBLE. Cyril BaUey .. • • • • • • MASHERBRUM, 1938. J. Waller . .. .. .. .. .. .. .. MOUNT COOK. BY A NEW ROUTE. L . V. Bryant .. .. .. .. SOME EXPERIMENTS IN MOUNTAIN 'I'ELE- PHOT'O GRAPHY WITH INFRA-RED COLOUR FILM. Dou~las L. Busk . . .. .. .. .• A WINTER'S DAY AT COURMAYEUR. Charles Gos .. .. .. .. MOUNTAIN WALKS IN MAJORCA. 0. K. WfUlamson .. • • •• •• ON SKI THROUGH ARCTIC LAPLAND TO THE NORTH CAPE. Colin Wyatt SHIVA TEMPLE AND \VOTAN'S THRONE, GRAND CANYON, 1937. \Vatter A. Wood .. .. .. .. •. .. .. .. .. .. .. 1\IARKHAM SHER\\'~L'S COLLECTION O F AUTOGRAPHS. Clalre-EUane Engel .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. .. . . .. LACHSI AND THE ZE:\fU GAP. H. W. TUman .. .. .. .. .. POETRY
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189 l~
212 2U n8 239 2.&8 257
l62 271
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IN MEMORIAM: GEORGE YELD, H. G. WILLINK, H. A. BEECHING, E. A. MARTEL, W. H. WORKMAN, W. l\1. MORDEY, C. J. S. HARPER, J. M. CLAYTON, A. E. H. TUTTON, J. \V. BROWN, HARRISON WOOD . . 279
EXPEDITIONS 301; ALPINE NOTES 316; ACCIDENTS 333; REVIEWS 338; LIBRARY 356 ; PROCEEDINGS 363 •
NOTICES for the next number, May 1939, should be sent to the Editor, Kingsaate House, Winchester, or at the Alpine Club, as EARLY AS POSSIBLE, nnd not later than Marcb 31
Price Ten Shillings and Sixpence per number: One Guinea per Annual Volume of Two Numbers, post free. All rights reseroed
PUBLISHED BY THE ALPINE CLUB 74 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET, LONDON, W.l SOLD BY EDWARD STANFORD LTD. 12 LONG ACRE, W.C .2 AND 43 WHITEHALL, S.W.l ADVERTISEMENT AGENTS :
WALTER .JUDD LTD. '7 GRESHAM ST. E.C.3
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Is something more than a ~lnd jacket : It Is, we believe, · the first garment ·with a permanent proofing . . . a proofing that can be washed or dry cleaned without damaging the unrivalled Windak protection . . . it Is a garment tailored In Bond Street.
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Wear a Wlndak
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with the new cleonable proofinl •
WINDAK LTD
There Is on Ideal WINDAK fort the golfer
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48, Haddox Street Bond St., London, W .1
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·==::::;;:::;=:;::;:::;:;:;:;.:;;:;:;;:;;:;=These are the tWo most ou·II'J· ..... qualities of the Kenyon Alpine
Climbing Rope •
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The 120ft. rope weighs oiily 6f ltis. and costs 25s. 9d. , (post free). Send P.O. or order C.O.D. Full specification, particUlars of other sizes and guarantee, on request •
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AND SONS, LIMITED ...
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DUKINFIELD • CHESHIRE
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CLIMBING a·ooT AND E UIPMENT SPECIAliSTS
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CLIMBING BOOTS with nalllug (Machine made) from 29/9
....... made CUmbing Boots
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6-6/-
(Nailing extra)
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CLIMBING JACKETS
Double texture
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ICE AXES
make• au.d mea
PULLOVERS SlletJ•nd
from 18/8
fri ou.
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RUCKSACKS ~r CRAMPONS ~j! ROPES, LINE, PITONS, SOCKS, STOCKINGS, GAUNTLETS, etc., etc.
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REP-AIRS AND NAILINGS AT REASONABLE CHARGES •
Write for Catalogue
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ROBERT LA
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RIE, LTD.
Showroonu and Officu38 BRYANSTON STREET, MARBLE ARCH, W.l. •
Telephone: PADdington 4.993.
Inland Telegrams: .Alpinist Weado London.
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Oablegrams: Alpinist London •
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GRISONS
Switzerland
4,00·0 f.a.s. •
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One of the finest ski-ing centres 1n . Switzerland .
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Parsenn funicular leading up to 9,000 feet. Swiss ski-ing school, providing very cheap tuition. New Skilift to practising slopes • ..
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The leading winter s orts hotel: I 200 beds
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En pension terms from [,1 (all inclusive) daily. TH0S HEW, Propr• •
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CAPEL CURIG
A Comfortable Country Hotel
Situated amidst the finest scenery in North Wales. The centre for Snowdonia. Easy motoring distance from all coast resorts. 20 bedrooms all fitted hot and cold running water. Five bathrooms. Fully licensed. Central heated lounges. Telephone : Capel Cu.rig 223. R.A.C., A.A. Special winter Week-end and Weekly Terms. Resident Manageress, Mrs. A. SMITH, welcomes inquiries and will send fully illustrated booklet on request .
BUTTERMERE ENGLISH LAKES
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Ideal centre for the Mountaineer and Rock Climber. Open all the year round. Fully licensed. Petrol Oils stocked. Garage R.A.C. Recommended. A.A. C:limbers' needs fully understood. Phone : Buttermere 3.
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Prop. : C. 0. T. GREENHOW. •
ACHARACLE, ARGYLLSHIRE •
Ardshealach Hotel Situated on Loch Shiel. Own Private Grounds. Free fishing for Brown Trout, Salmon and Sea Trout. and use of Boats from April to October. Own Farn1 Produce. Electric Light. Mountain Climbing. Moderate Terans. Telephone: Salen 26 CAMPBELL .
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Rope and Line was used by Smythe on Kamet ; by the Everest ExpedItion ; and by the Marco Pallis Gangotrl Glacier Expedition.
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Bc trt.-ahlng. deliclou, , cheaper .. th:\n C01ltint!Ut:\ I Alka.llnes,
by ~we
