Vinyl Windows and Doors

Part Number: V984245 © 2011 Pella Corporation

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTION INSTRUCCIONES DE INSTALACION 350 SERIES WINDOW INTO EXISTING WOOD FRAME WINDOW Lea las instrucciones en español en el reverso. These instructions were tested and developed for replacing windows in wood-frame wall construction systems designed to manage moisture. This method of installation involves removing the sash only of the existing window. The original window frame will remain in place and only the existing sash, frame stops and frame hardware must be removed. If existing window frame shows signs of water infiltration or is damaged beyond repair, this method should not be followed and the entire existing window should be removed. Installation recommendations for other types of wall construction, wall systems, conditions, multiple windows or bow/bay windows, may be obtained from Pella Corporation or a local Pella retailer. Building designs, construction methods, building materials, and site conditions unique to your project may require an installation method different from these instructions and additional care on your part. Determining the appropriate installation method is the responsibility of you, your architect, or other construction professional. YOU WILL NEED TO SUPPLY: • Cedar or Impervious shims/spacers (12 to 20) • Closed cell foam backer rod/sealant backer (12 to 30 ft.) • Pella® SmartFlash™ foil backed butyl window and door flashing tape or equivalent • High quality exterior grade polyurethane or silicone SEALANT SEALANT sealant (1 tube per window) • Great Stuff ™ Window and Door Insulating Foam Sealant by the Dow Chemical Company or equivalent low pressure polyurethane window and door foam - DO NOT use high pressure or latex foams. • #6 x 1/2" sheet metal screws (for head expander)

TOOLS REQUIRED: • Tape measure • Level • Sealant gun • Prybar • Utility knife • Hammer • Screwdrivers (Flat & Phillips) • Roto-tool, reciprocating saw • Wood chisel • 5/32", 3/8" and 1/4" drill bit • Drill

Installation will require two or more persons for safety reasons.

• Phillips driver bit

INSTALLING INTO EXISTING DOUBLE-HUNG OR CASEMENT FRAME FROM THE INTERIOR

INSTALLING INTO EXISTING DOUBLE-HUNG FRAME FROM THE EXTERIOR EX

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Inte Existing wall construction

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Existing window frame

Checkrail

Drywall Insulation Framing

Sill Adapter

Flashing Tape

Always read the Vinyl Window and Door Limited Warranty before purchasing or installing Vinyl Windows and Doors manufactured by Pella Corporation. By installing this product, you are acknowledging that this Limited Warranty is part of the terms of the sale. Failure to comply with all Pella installation and maintenance instructions may void your Pella product warranty. See Limited Warranty for complete details at http://warranty.pella.com.

IF INSTALLING WINDOW FROM EXTERIOR, OR REMOVING EXISTING CASEMENT SASH, REFER TO OPTIONAL SASH REMOVAL AT THE END OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

1

REMOVING EXISTING SASH

Caution: Many windows in older homes are painted with lead-based paint. Removal of old windows may disturb this paint. Proper precautions must be taken to minimize exposure to dust and debris. Consult state or local authorities for more information. Use appropriate personal Balance protective equipment. A. Score paint or varnish along interior sash stops with a sharp utility knife. Carefully remove interior sash stops at jambs (sides) and head (top) using putty knife and prybar. Set aside to reuse.

cord pulleys

Interior sash stop

B. Cut the balance cords on the bottom sash and lift out the sash. Allow weights to fall to the bottom of the weight pocket.

Bottom balance cords

Parting stop

Top sash

Bottom sash weight

C. Remove the parting stops. There may be a small wedge of wood at the bottom of the upper sash that is next to the parting stops. To make it easier to remove the parting stop, use a chisel to knock off the wedge. D. Lower the top sash and cut the balance cords allowing the balance weights to fall into the weight pocket. Remove the top sash. Be careful not to damage the exterior blind stop. E. Remove the balance cord pulleys. Unscrew and remove balance cord pulleys. If they cannot be removed easily, drive them into the jamb using a hammer.

2

OPENING PREPARATION

Top balance cord

Exterior blind stop

Bottom sash

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Top sash weight

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Exterior

blind stop RParting stop Interior sash stop

INTERIOR

A. Inspect the existing window frame and repair or replace any defective or rotted wood parts. Make sure the exterior blind stops are sound. B. Insulate the weight pocket with loose fill insulation. Note: Use of expanding/aerosol foam insulation is not recommended. C. If applicable, install pre-finished metal flashing or trim to cover existing frame sill and the exterior trim at the head and jambs.

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D. Clean the opening of any dirt, debris, or excess old paint before proceeding. Note: Many windows in older homes are painted with lead-based paint. See caution note in Step 1. E. Apply one piece of sill flashing tape to the sill of the existing window. Cut the tape the same length as the width of the existing window sill. Place one side of the tape against the vertical leg of the stool, and work the tape into the corner before applying to the sill. Press down firmly. The tape will not cover the sill depth completely under the new window. Note: If needed, blocking/shims may need to be placed where the existing balances were located.

2E 2C

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F. Ensure existing sill is level. Note: If shimming of the sill is necessary, use a continuous shim that extends across the entire width of the sill. G. Confirm that the installation jamb screws will fasten into solid wood. If not, insert solid filler at screw locations.

3

Note: Open the sash to access all pre-drilled installation holes.

PREPARE THE WINDOW FOR INSTALLATION

Windows Installed From Interior A. Remove packing materials from the window. Note: Check product for any cracks or penetrations in the frame. DO NOT install damaged windows.

Continuous shim

3B Sill adapter Sill accessory groove

B. Install the sill adapter in the sill accessory groove. Note: Use a rubber mallet to drive the sill adapter into the sill accessory groove. The vertical leg of the sill adapter may be cut to accommodate different sill angles.

If using a CLIP INSTALLION, refer to the installation instructions included with the install clip accessory package. SLIDING WINDOW ONLY C. Remove the venting sash. Unlock the window and slide the venting sash open until it clears the anti-lift clip. Lift up on the sash until the bottom of the sash will clear the bottom track. And remove the sash towards the interior.

3D

D. Remove the vent track from the vent pocket sill. Using a small flat-head screwdriver, pry the vent track out of the sill pocket, being careful not to damage it. Keep this part, to be reinstalled later. E. Drill 5/32" installation screw holes through the frame jambs, head, & sill per the spacing shown in the graphic. The holes should be located in the center of the vent pocket.

16" MAX.

4" 4"

6"

6"

3E

JAMB/HEAD

Fixed Meeting Rail

16" MAX.

F. Head/Jamb Only: Counter Drill using a 3/8" drill bit with a drill guide placed ¼" from the end of the bit. Drill through the first wall only of the frame. DO NOT penetrate the outer wall with the 3/8" drill bit.

6"

HEAD

EXTERIOR

EXTERIOR

6"

5/32" drill 1-1/4" INTERIOR

3/8" drill with drill guide placed 1/4" from end of bit.

5/32" drill 1-1/4" INTERIOR

3/8" drill with dril guide placed 1/4" from end of bit.

DOUBLE HUNG AND SINGLE HUNG WINDOWS If the sill riser has a "Quick Release Band" around the riser; open the sash and pull the band to help remove the riser. G. Remove the sill riser by opening the sash and using a flat headed screw-driver to pry the sill riser from the sill. Starting at one end, push on the top of the sill riser so that a small flatbladed screwdriver can be inserted as shown. Pry sill riser up to remove.

First Press Here

3G

Then Insert Screwdriver Here

4

SEALING AND FASTENING THE WINDOW

A. Test fit the window in the opening. With the window closed and locked, set the bottom of the window into the opening, then tilt the top into position. B. Ensure the window is resting against the interior surface of the blind stops and the sill adapter meets the original sill. Note: The height of the window frame can be increased by as much as 3/8" by applying the head expander (included) to the window frame. If more than 3/8" height adjustment is required, install a continuous shim at the sill.

DO NOT use the head expander in High Performance installations.

C. Apply the head expander (if required). For installation using the head expander, go to INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS HEAD EXPANDER later in this booklet.

4D D. Drill two 1/4" weep holes in the sill adapter. Locate the holes 1" from each end. The bottom of the weep hole must be at the bottom of the vertical leg of the sill adapter.

1“ 1“

Head blind stop Jamb blind stop

E. Apply a 3/8" continuous bead of sealant to the interior face of the existing blind stops at the head and both jambs.

3A 4E

F. Place a bead of sealant where the existing stool meets the existing frame sill and jambs.

Stool

Sill

4F 3B G. Place a bead of sealant where the jamb and sill meet.

4G 3C H. Insert the replacement window (from the interior) in the opening by setting the bottom of the window in first, then tilting the top into place. Make sure the window rests against the interior surface of the blind stops and the sill adapter will contact the existing sill.

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4H 4G I. Place a shim near the top of one jamb, in line with the top pre-drilled hole in the window frame. Trim all shims so they are recessed back 1/4" - 1/2" from the interior face of the window frame. Partially insert a #8 x 2" pan head screw (provided). Repeat process for other jamb.

4H 4I Shim 2" screw

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J. Continue placing shims at each pre-drilled installation screw holes in jambs as needed to plumb and square the window. Check window for squareness by making sure diagonal measurement from corner to corner is within 1/8" in both directions.

Interior

4I 4J

K. Drill 5/32" pilot holes in the head and jamb shims to prevent the shims from splitting when driving screws. Note: Raise the lower sash to access the bottom installation screw holes. L. Fasten the window in the opening by driving #8 x 2"Phillips pan head corrosion resistant screws (provided) through the installation holes and the shims and into the wall members. Place a dab of sealant in all installation screw holes in the sill prior to installing the sill screws. Sealant is required to prevent leakage at these screw holes. DO NOT over tighten. Over tightening will distort the frame and may interfere with the performance of the window. M. Insert a plastic screw cover (provided) into each installation screw hole in the frame. Use a flat blade screwdriver to insert the covers into tight spaces in the frame. Note: If window components were removed to access sill anchors; replace them now. The sill riser and sash track snap in by pressing them down. N. Check window operation. Lock and unlock sash. Open and close all sash. Note: If there are any problems with the operation of the window, recheck shim locations and adjust for plumb and square. CASEMENTS: If additional adjustment is needed, use the adjustment tool and accompanying instructions.

4M 4K

Screw Cover

Installation Screw Hole

5

INTERIOR SEAL

Caution: Ensure use of low pressure polyurethane window and door insulating foams and strictly follow the foam manufacturer’s recommendations for application. Use of high pressure foams or improper application of the foam may cause the window frame to bow and hinder operation. Interior A. Apply insulating foam sealant. From the interior, insert the nozzle of the applicator approximately deep into the space between the window and the rough opening and apply a 1" deep bead of foam. This will allow room for expansion the foam and will minimize squeeze out. Apply sealant across interior surface of shims to create continuous seal. Follow foam manufacturer's instructions. Note: It may be necessary to squeeze the end of the tube with pliers to be able insert into the space between the new and existing window frame. DO NOT completely fill the space from the back of the blind stops to the interior face the opening.

1" of

5A

to of

B. Check window operation by opening and closing the window. Note: If the window does not operate correctly, check to make sure it is still plumb, level, square and that the sides are not bowed. If adjustments are required, remove the foam with a serrated knife. Adjust the shims and reapply the insulating foam sealant.

6

INTERIOR TRIM

A. Reinstall existing interior sash stops or new trim as desired.

EXTERIOR

7

EXTERIOR SEAL

WINDOWS INSTALLED FROM INTERIOR: A. If space between the new window frame and the existing window frame is ≤1/4". Go to Step 7B. If the space is > 1/4” proceed to 7C.

Add sealant if ≤ 1/4"

EXTERIOR

If > 1/4" first install backer rod and then sealant as shown in Steps 7C & 7D

EXTERIOR

Corner beed

B. Seal the window to the exterior stops. Place a corner bead of sealant around the perimeter of the window frame where the new frame contacts the original window frame. Also place a bead of sealant between the sill adapter and the bottom of the existing window sill. This bead should connect to the jamb sealant beads. Tool the sealant beads. Proceed to Step 7E.

Exterior

4K 7B

Note: When corner beading sealant around the perimeter of the window frame, be careful not to cover the weep holes at the sill.

WINDOWS INSTALLED FROM EXTERIOR (STEP 10): C. Insert backer rod into the space around the window at the head and jambs. This should provide at least 3/8" clearance between the backer rod and the exterior face of the window. Note: Backer rod adds shape and depth for the sealant line. D. Seal the window to the exterior stops. Place a corner bead of sealant around the perimeter of the window frame where the new frame contacts the original window frame. Also place a bead of sealant between the sill adapter and the bottom of the existing window sill. This bead should connect to the jamb sealant beads. Tool the sealant beads.

6A 7C

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7D 6B

Note: When corner beading sealant around the perimeter of the window frame, be careful not to cover the weep holes at the sill.

E. Shape, tool, and clean excess sealant. When finished, the sealant should be the shape of an hourglass. Note: This method creates a more flexible sealant line capable of expanding and contracting.

EXTERIOR FINISH OF EXISTING FRAME Any exposed wood on the exterior stop needs to be covered/protected. There are many ways to accomplish this, and each case can be unique. Note: The contractor/installer will determine when and how to finish the exterior. EXTERIOR OF WINDOW WITH FRAME EXPANDER

OTHER EXISTING SASH REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS

8

INSTALLING IN EXISTING CASEMENT FRAME

Note: Remove the new window from its packaging. Inspect and measure the new window to confirm it will fit into the opening prior to removing the existing window. The window needs to be 1/2" smaller in both width and height than the existing window frame.

1B 8B HEAD STOP

A. Remove the existing sash. This will vary per manufacturer of the existing window. Removing the hinge and operator fasteners will generally allow the sash to be removed from the existing frame.

JAMB STOPS

Note: Two or more people may be required when handling existing sash. B. Remove operator hardware and all head, jamb, and sill stops. This can usually be accomplished with a prybar.

9

SILL STOP

OPENING PREPARATION

A. Inspect the existing window frame and repair or replace any defective or rotted wood parts. Remove or seat any nails.

2B 9B

B. Clean the opening of any dirt, debris, or excess old paint before proceeding. Chisel off any high spots. C. Apply one piece of flashing tape to the sill of the existing window frame. Cut the tape 12" longer than the existing window sill width. Apply the tape approximately 1" from the exterior on the existing sill and 6" up each jamb and press down firmly. The tape will not cover the sill depth completely under the new window. D. Ensure existing sill is level. Place 1" wide by 1/4" thick shims on the bottom of the window opening, 1/2" from each side and beneath meeting rail. Place additional 1" by 1/4" thick shims, ensuring the distance between the shims is not more than 18" on center. Adjust shims as necessary to ensure the sill is level. Note: Improper placement of shims or spacers may result in bowing the bottom of the window. The sill adapter will not be needed in this installation. Return to Step 3.

2C 9C

6“

OTHER EXISTING SASH REMOVAL INSTRUCTIONS

10

INSTALLING IN EXISTING DOUBLE-HUNG FRAME FROM EXTERIOR

A. Unlock the window. Raise the lower sash and lower the upper sash so both are in the approximate middle of the frame. Note: Most of the following steps may be completed from the exterior of the house.

10A 1A

B. Remove the jamb and head parting stop. Remove any head parting stop by pulling the stop down from the frame. In some cases, the stops are nailed on and can simply be pulled off. In other situations the stops may need to be pried or cut out of the frame.

OP

HEAD ST

Head Parting Stop

J A M B

10B 1B

S T O P

1C 10C

C. Remove the exterior jamb and head stops. This can be accomplished with a wood chisel, circular saw, reciprocating saw, roto-tool, or equivalent. Ensure the stop is removed flush with the existing window jamb. Caution: Take care to prevent existing sashes from falling out when removing stops.

Head Stop

Remove Sashes

10D 1D

Jamb Liner

10E 1E

1C 10C Jamb Stops

D. Remove the upper and lower sash. This will vary per manufacturer of existing windows. Some will simply pull out, while others may need to be cut to be removed. Grasp the sash and pull out of the frame. The jamb liner material may come out of the frame when pulling the sash out. E. Remove any and all jamb liner material. Some liners may have frame attachment fasteners that will need to be removed before the liners can be removed. Caution: Spring loaded balances can cause injury; use care when removing balances from existing windows.

11

OPENING PREPARATION

A. Inspect the existing window frame and repair or replace any defective or rotted wood parts.

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B. Clean the opening of any dirt, debris, or excess old paint before proceeding.

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2C

C. Apply one piece of sill flashing tape to the sill of the existing window. Cut the tape the same length as the width of the existing window sill. Place one side of the tape against the vertical leg of the stool, and work the tape into the corner before applying to the sill. Press down firmly. The tape will not cover the sill depth completely under the new window.

11C 2C

Note: If needed, blocking/shims may need to be placed where the existing balances were located. Return to Step 3.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS (HEAD EXPANDER) Note: To determine if the Head Expander is required refer to Step 4B. A. Make a pencil mark 3/8" from the top of the window on the room side edge of each jamb. B. Install the head expander on the top of the window frame. Slide the expander down onto the head as far as it will go.

D. Drill two 1/16" pilot holes through the room side leg of head expander into the frame. These holes are to be 2" from each end of the head expander. Insert a #6 x 1/2" pan head sheet metal screw (not provided) into each hole. Proceed to Step 4D.

A Interior frame edge Head expander

C. Test fit the window into the opening. Slide the head expander up until the top of the head expander is within 1/4" of the top of the existing opening. Ensure the pencil marks are not visible. If the pencil mark is visible, the expander is extended too far. Note: If the expander extends past the pencil mark it may be necessary to shim the original sill or to order a larger window. Note: The void between the window frame and head expander can be filled with loose-fill insulation.

3/8"

Top window frame

B (Side View)

1/4" Head expander

Pencil mark

C

Interior frame edge

CLEANING INSTRUCTIONS Remove labels and clean the glass, using a soft, clean, grit-free cloth and mild soap or detergent. Be sure to remove all liquid by wiping dry or use a clean squeegee. The vinyl frame may be cleaned as described above. For stubborn dirt, a “non-abrasive" cleaner such as Bon-Ami® or Soft scrub® may be used. Do not use solvents such as mineral spirits, toluene, xylene, naphtha or muriatic acid as they can dull the finish, soften the vinyl and/or cause failure of the insulated unit seal. Keep door tracks clear of dirt and debris. Keep weep holes open and clear of obstructions.

IMPORTANT NOTICE Because all construction must anticipate some water infiltration, it is important that the wall system be designed and constructed to properly manage moisture. Pella Corporation is not responsible for claims or damages caused by anticipated and unanticipated water infiltration; deficiencies in building design, construction and maintenance; failure to install Pella products in accordance with Pella’s installation instructions; or the use of Pella products in wall systems which do not allow for proper management of moisture within the wall systems. The determination of the suitability of all building components, including the use of Pella products, as well as the design and installation of flashing and sealing systems are the responsibility of the Buyer or User, the architect, contractor, installer, or other construction professional and are not the responsibility of Pella. Pella products should not be used in barrier wall systems which do not allow for proper management of moisture within the wall systems, such as barrier Exterior Insulation and Finish Systems, (EIFS) (also known as synthetic stucco) or other non-water managed systems. Except in the states of California, New Mexico, Arizona, Nevada, Utah, and Colorado, Pella makes no warranty of any kind on and assumes no responsibility for Pella windows and doors installed in barrier wall systems. In the states listed above, the installation of Pella Products in barrier wall or similar systems must be in accordance with Pella’s installation instructions. Product modifications that are not approved by Pella Corporation will void the Limited Warranty.