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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Museo de Arte Contemporáneo 50 Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Espacio Quinta Normal 53 Museo de Artes Visuales 51 Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes 50 Santiago 60 Atacameño peoples 421 ATMs 458 Aymara peoples 420 Azapa Valley 154

A

accommodations 452-4, see also individual locations Achao 295-6 Aconcagua Valley 110-12 activities 28-32, see also individual activities addresses 454 adventure sports 20 ahu 411 air travel 463-5, 467 alerce 311, 444 Alessandri, Arturo 425 Allende, Isabel 438 Allende, Salvador 425-6 alpacas 443 altitude sickness 456 Ampuero, Roberto 438 Anakena Beach 14, 412, 14 Ancud 286-91, 288 Andes, the 269, 441 Angol 134-5 animals, see individual animals Antarctica 345, 389, 445 Anticura 260 Antillanca 260 Antofagasta 189-92 Archipiélago Juan Fernández 135-41, 136 area codes 17, 461 Argentina Patagonia 367-77 Tierra del Fuego 388-400 travel to 337 Arica 143-54, 146, 9 art galleries Casa del Arte Diego Rivera 275-6 Centro Cultural Matucana 100 54 Centro Gabriela Mistral 50 Galería Animal 60 Galería Isabel Aninat 60 La Sala Galería de Arte 60

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages

B

Bachelet, Michelle 430-1 Bahía Inglesa 197-9 Balmaceda, José Manuel 423 Baños Morales 84 bargaining 460 Bartonellosis (Oroya fever) 456 bathrooms 461 beaches Anakena 14, 412, 14 Arica 146-7, 9 Bahía Inglesa 197-9 Bahía Mansa 257 Buchupureo 128 Cachagua 109 Caldera 196 Caleta Condor 257 Cobquecura 128 Concón 109 Chochuenco 252 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 404 Horcón 109 Iquique 163 La Serena 207 Lago Calafquén 253 Lican Ray 248 Maicolpué 257 Maitencillo 109 Middle Chile 35 Norte Chico 36 Papudo 109 Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar 195 Parque Punta Curiñanco 255 Pichilemu 116 Playa Cucao 302 Playa La Virgen 198 Playa Larga 271 Pucatrihue 257 Pucón 238 Puerto Fonck 261 Quintay 108 Reñaca 109 safety 459 surfing 32

4 87 swimming 30 Villarrica 235 Viña del Mar 103 Zapallar 109 beavers 385 beer 22, 258 Belén 155 bicycle travel, see bicycling bicycling 30, 467-8 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 405 Pucón 238 San Pedro de Atacama 180 Santiago 58 birdwatching 442-3, see also national parks & reserves, penguins Ancud 287 Antarctica 389 Parque Tagua-Tagua 274 Porvenir 382 Reserva Natural Laguna Nimez 368 Río Puelo Valley 274 Villa O’Higgins 337 Bize, Matías 440 boat travel 468 Bolaño, Roberto 439 Bolivia, travel into 180 books 418, 438-9 border crossings 465-7 Brotes de Chile 21 Buchupureo 128 bus travel 465, 468-9, 471 bushwalking, see hiking business hours 454

C

Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn) 388 Cabo Froward 350 Cachagua 109 Caiozzi, Silvio 440 Cajón del Maipo 82-5 Calama 174-5, 186 Caldera 196-7 Caleta Tortel 335-6 Campeonato Nacional de Rodeo 22 canyoning 30 Cape Horn 388 car travel 17, 465, 469-71 Carnaval 21 Carretera Austral 12, 309, 12 Casablanca Valley 107-8 Castro 296-301, 298 cathedrals, see churches & cathedrals cell phones 17, 460-1 Chaitén 312-14 Chajnantor 183 Chatwin, Bruce 351 Chepu 291-2

488

INDE X C - G

children, travel with 33-4 Santiago 61 Chile Chico 328-30 Chilean recluse spiders 456 Chillán 124-6, 125 Chiloé 36, 284-304, 285 accommodations 284 climate 284 food 284 highlights 285 Chinchorro peoples 149, 420 Chuquicamata 175-7 churches & cathedrals Catedral Metropolitana 45 Chiloé 9, 287, 9 Iglesia de San Francisco 49 Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón 263 Iglesia Hanga Roa 404 Iglesia La Matriz 95 Iglesia Parroquial María Inmaculada 272 Iglesia San Francisco 95, 207 Iglesia San Francisco de Castro 297 climate 16, 21-2, 441-2, see also individual locations climate change 445, 463 climbing 29-30 El Chaltén 375 Parque Nacional Conguillío 232 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (North) 375 Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces 202 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 364 Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales 271 Parque Nacional Villarrica 244-5 Pucón 239 Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez 328 Puerto Varas 264 Río Cochamó Valley 272 San Pedro de Atacama 180 Valle Las Trancas 126 Valle Nevado 85 Volcán Osorno 270 Volcán Villarrica 8, 239, 8 Cobquecura 128 Cochrane 334-5 Codpa 155 Colchagua Valley 9, 113-16, 9 colectivos 471 Concepción 129-31 Concón 109 consulates 455

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages

cooking courses Curarrehue 248 Valparaíso 96 Copiapó 199-202 Coquimbo 211 courses, see also individual locations cooking 96, 248 language 58, 59, 96, 147, 166, 208, 457 Coyhaique 321-6, 322 credit cards 458 Cruce el Maitén 331 Cueva del Milodón 358-9 culture 418-19, 433-4 Cunco peoples 421 Curacautín 233 Curaco de Vélez 295 curanto 290 Curarrehue 247-8 Curicó 122-3 currency 16, 458 customs regulations 454 cycling, see bicycling

D

Dakar, the 165 dangers 459-60, 470 departure tax 464 Dientes de Navarino 386 disabilities, travelers with 461-2 diving 30 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 404 Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt 206 San Juan Bautista 139 dogs 459 Donoso, José 438 Dorfman, Ariel 438 drinking, see individual locations drinks, see beer, pisco sours, water, wine driver’s licenses 469 driving, see car travel drugs 457

E

earthquakes 430, 436, 459 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 37, 401-16, 403, 8, 14, 426 accommodations 401, 414 arts 414 climate 401 culture 413, 414 environment 414 festivals 21 food 401 highlights 403 history 413-14

internet resources 415 language 474 money 415 travel to/from 415-16 travel within 416 economy 418, 434 El Calafate 367-72, 368 El Cañi 246 El Caulle 261 El Chaltén 374-7 El Gigante de Atacama 171 El Molle peoples 421 El Tatio 13, 189, 13 electricity 453, 454 Elqui Valley 10, 214-20, 10 embassies 455 emergencies 17 language 475 Ensenada 269-70 Entre Lagos 258-9 environment 444-6 Estancia Yendegaia 384 etiquette 434 events, see festivals & events exchange rates 17

F

ferry travel, see boat travel Festival de la Virgen del Carmen 22 Festival Internacional de la Canción 21 festivals & events 21-2, see also individual locations Fiesta de la Candelaria 21 Fiestas Patrias 22 film 60, 418, 439-40 fires 445, 447 fishing 30 food 19, 455, see also individual locations football 73 Frei Montalva, Eduardo 425 Frutillar 262-3 Fuerte Bulnes 350 Fuguet, Alberto 439 Futaleufú 314-16

G

Galaz, Cristian 440 galleries, see art galleries gay travelers 62, 455-6 geography 441 geology 441 geysers 13, 189, 13 glaciers 374, 445 Caleta Tortel 335-6 Glaciar Martial 391 Glaciar Perito Moreno 372

4 89

H Hanga Roa 403-10, 406 accommodations 405-9 activities 404-5 drinking 409-10 food 409 information 410 shopping 410 sights 403-4 tours 405 hantavirus 456 Harberton 399 health 456-7 hiking 18, 28-9, see also national parks & reserves Dientes de Navarino 386 Glaciar Martial 391 Parque Nacional Archipiélago Juan Fernández 140-1 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (North) 374-5 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (South) 373 Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar 195 Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego 398 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 359-67, 360, 362-3, 7 Parque Nacional Villarrica 245 Parque Pumalín 310-11 Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay 121 San Pedro de Atacama 180 Valle Chacabuco (Parque Nacional Patagonia) 333 historic buildings Casa Colorada 49 Casa Museo Eduardo Frei Montalva 54-5 Congreso Nacional 95 La Chascona 11, 51, 11 La Sebastiana 93 Palacio Cousiño 58 Palacio de la Moneda 49 history 20, 420-32 hitchhiking 471 holidays 459 Horcón 109

Hornopirén 308-10 horseback riding 32 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 405 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 363, 31 Pucón 238 Río Cochamó Valley 265 San Alfonso 83 horseflies 459 hot springs, see thermal springs Huasco Valley 203-5 Huilliche peoples 257 Huilo-Huilo Reserva Natural Biosfera 255 Humberstone 170

I

illegal drugs 457 immigration 462, 463, 464 independence 422 indigenous peoples 420-1 Atacameño peoples 421 Aymara peoples 420 Chinchorro peoples 149, 420 Cunco peoples 421 Huilliche peoples 257 Rapa Nui peoples 413, 414, 424, 426, 434, 426 Tiwanaku peoples 421 insurance 457 car 470 health 456 travel 457 internet access 457 internet resources 17 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 415 Santiago 41 Iquique 161-70, 162 accommodations 166-7 activities 163-6 drinking 168 entertainment 168 food 167-8 history 161 information 169 shopping 169 sights 161-3 tours 166 travel to/from 169 travel within 169-70 Isla Alejandro Selkirk 141 Isla Mechuque 292-3 Isla Navarino 384-8 Isla Negra 108 Isla Pan de Azúcar 195 Isla Quinchao 295-6 itineraries 23-7

J

Jodorowsky, Alejandro 439 Justiniano, Gonzalo 440

K

kayaking 32 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 363 Pucón 238-9 kitesurfing 32

L

La Araucanía 226-48 La Junta 273, 317-18 La Serena 206-14, 208 accommodations 209-10 courses 208 drinking 212 entertainment 212 festivals & events 209 food 210-12 history 206-7 information 212 tours 208-9 travel to/from 212-13 travel within 214 La Tirana 172, 173 Lago Blanco 384 Lago Cachet 445 Lago Calafquén 253 Lago Panguipulli 252 Lago Ranco 252 Lakes District 15, 256-83, 15 landsailing 30 landscapes 19 language 16, 418, 473-9 language courses 457 Arica 147 Iquique 166 La Serena 208 Santiago 58-9 Valparaíso 96 lapiz lazuli 460 Larrain, Ricardo 439 legal matters 457 Lemebel, Pedro 439 lesbian travelers 62, 455-6 Lican Ray 248 Limarí Valley 220-1 literature 351, 418, 438-9 Littín, Miguel 439 llamas 443, 19 Llanada Grande 274 loco 291 Lollapalooza Chile 22 Lolol 115 López, Nicolás 440

INDE X G - L

Glaciarium 368 Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael 326-7 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares 372-7 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 363 graffiti art 18 guanacos 443 Guzmán, Patricio 439

490 Los 33 203, 419, 431 Los Andes 110-11 Los Angeles 133-4 Lota 131

M

INDE X L- N

Magallanes 341-51 Maipo Valley 82, 25 Maitencillo 109 Mamiña 172 Mano del Desierto 192 maps 457-8 Mapuche peoples 227, 421, 432, 433, 434 markets 460 Santiago 44, 74 Valparaíso 95-6 Maule Valley 118-20 measures 453 medical services 456 Melipeuco 234 metro travel 471, 78-9 Middle Chile 35 miners, trapped 203, 419, 431 mining 424, 444 Mistral, Gabriela 217, 438 moai 411, 8 mobile phones 17, 460-1 money 17, 458 discount cards 454 Montegrande 217 Montt, Jorge 423 Monumento Natural Dos Lagunas 326 Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñihuil 291 Monumento Natural El Morado 84 Monumento Natural Los Pingüinos 14, 349, 14 Monumentos Históricos Nacionales Puerto Hambre 350 motorcycle travel 465, 469-71 mountain biking, see bicycling mountaineering, see climbing museums, see also art galleries Centro de Visitantes Inmaculada Concepción 286 Museo a Cielo Abierto 94 Museo Antropológico Sebastián Englert 403-4 Museo Arqueológico de Santiago 51 Museo Arqueológico (La Serena) 207 Museo Arqueológico San Miguel de Azapa 154

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages

Museo Artequín 61 Museo Chileno de Arte Precolombino 45 Museo Corbeta Esmeralda 161-2 Museo de Arte Moderno de Chiloé 297 Museo de Historia Natural 95 Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos 53 Museo de la Moda 55 Museo de la Solidaridad Salvador Allende 58 Museo de Tierra del Fuego 382 Museo Gustavo Le Paige 177 Museo Histórico Casa Gabriel González Videla 207 Museo Histórico Colonial Alemán 262 Museo Histórico Nacional 49 Museo Histórico y Antropológico 249 Museo Histórico y Arqueológico 235 Museo Interactivo Mirador 61 Museo Mineralógico 200 Museo Minero de Tierra Amarilla 200 Museo Naval 163 Museo Naval y Marítimo 94-5 Museo Regional 163 Museo Regional Aurelio Bórquez Canobra 286-7 Museo Regional Braun-Menéndez 343 Museo Regional de Atacama 200 Museo Regional de Castro 297 Santiago 41 music festivals 21, 22, 30, 61 mythology 294

N

national parks & reserves 447-50 Monumento Natural El Morado 84 Parque Nacional Archipiélago Juan Fernández 140-1 Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins 359 Parque Nacional Bosques de Fray Jorge 222 Parque Nacional Chiloé 301-3 Parque Nacional Conguillío 231-3, 11 Parque Nacional Hornopirén 310 Parque Nacional Huerquehue 247 Parque Nacional Isla Magdalena 321 Parque Nacional La Campana 108, 110 Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja 132-3

Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael 326-7 Parque Nacional Lauca 159-60, 156-7, 2, 19 Parque Nacional Llanos de Challe 205 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (North) 374-7 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (South) 372-3 Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta 135 Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces 202 Parque Nacional Pali Aike 351 Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar 195-6 Parque Nacional Puyehue 259-61 Parque Nacional Queulat 320, 25 Parque Nacional Rapa Nui 411-13 Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego 398-9 Parque Nacional Tolhuaca 230-1 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 6, 359-67, 360, 362-3, 7, 31 Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales 270-2, 271 Parque Nacional Villarrica 244-5 Parque Nacional Volcán Isluga 171-2 Parque Pumalín 310-12 Parque Tagua-Tagua 274 Patagonia 308, 341 Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay 120-2 Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo 327 Reserva Nacional Coyhaique 326 Reserva Nacional Jeinemeni 330 Reserva Nacional Las Vicuñas 160 Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos 187-9 Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas 233-4 Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt 205-6 Reserva Nacional Radal Siete Tazas 123 Reserva Nacional Río Clarillo 83 Reserva Nacional Río Simpson 326 Reserva Nacional Tamango 335 Valle Chacabuco (Parque Nacional Patagonia) 13, 332-3, 13 Navimag ferry 280-1, 282 Neruda, Pablo 439 newspapers 453 New Year’s Eve 22 nightlife 19 Norte Chico 36, 193-222, 194 accommodations 193 climate 193 food 193 highlights 194

4 91 Norte Grande 36, 142-92, 144-5 accommodations 142 climate 142 food 142 highlights 144-5

O

P

Palena 316-17 Papudo 109 paragliding 30 parks & gardens Parque Bicentenario 57 Parque de las Esculturas 54 Parque Forestal 51 Parque Metropolitano 51 Parque por la Paz 41 Parque Quinta Normal 53 Parque Tantauco 303 Parque Historia Patagonia 350 Parque Nacional Archipiélago Juan Fernández 140-1 Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins 359 Parque Nacional Bosques de Fray Jorge 222 Parque Nacional Chiloé 301-3 Parque Nacional Conguillío 231-3, 11 Parque Nacional Hornopirén 310 Parque Nacional Huerquehue 247 Parque Nacional Isla Magdalena 321 Parque Nacional La Campana 108, 110 Parque Nacional Laguna del Laja 132-3 Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael 326-7 Parque Nacional Lauca 159-60, 156-7, 2, 19 Parque Nacional Llanos de Challe 205 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (North) 374-7 Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (South) 372-3 Parque Nacional Nahuelbuta 135 Parque Nacional Nevado Tres Cruces 202 Parque Nacional Pali Aike 351 Parque Nacional Pan de Azúcar 195-6

population 418, 434 Portillo 112 Porvenir 382-3, 383 postal services 458-9 public holidays 459 Pucón 238-43, 240, 244 Puerto Bertrand 331-2 Puerto Fonck 261 Puerto Guadal 331 Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez 328 Puerto Montt 275-83, 276-7 Puerto Natales 352-8, 354-5 Puerto Octay 261-2 Puerto Río Tranquilo 330 Puerto Varas 263-70, 264 Puerto Williams 12, 385-8, 12 Puerto Yungay 336 Punta Arenas 341-9, 342 accommodations 345-7 activities 343-4 drinking 347-8 entertainment 348 festivals & events 345 food 347 history 342-3 information 348 shopping 348 sights 343-4 tours 344-5 travel to/from 348-9 travel within 349 Putre 156-9 Puyuhuapi 318-19

Q

Quellón 303-4 Quemchi 292 Quintay 108

R

radio 453 rafting 32 Futaleufú 314 Pucón 238-9 Puerto Varas 264 San Alfonso 83 rainforests 444 Rapa Nui, see Easter Island Rapa Nui peoples 413, 414, 424, 426, 434, 426 Raul Marín Balmaceda 318 Reñaca 109 Reserva Nacional Altos de Lircay 120-2 Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo 327 Reserva Nacional Coyhaique 326 Reserva Nacional Jeinemeni 330

INDE X N - R

observatories 213, 214 Observatorio Cerro Paranal 192 O’Higgins, Bernardo 423, 422 Ojos del Salado 202-3 Oktoberfest 22 opening hours 454 Osorno 256-8 ozone 345, 445

Parque Nacional Puyehue 259-61 Parque Nacional Queulat 320, 25 Parque Nacional Rapa Nui 411-13 Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego 398-9 Parque Nacional Tolhuaca 230-1 Parque Nacional Torres del Paine 6, 359-67, 360, 362-3, 7, 31 Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales 270-2, 271 Parque Nacional Villarrica 244-5 Parque Nacional Volcán Isluga 171-2 Parque por la Paz 41 Parque Pumalín 310-12 Parque Punta Curiñanco 255 Parque Tagua-Tagua 274 Parque Tantauco 303 Parra, Nicanor 438 passports 462, 463 Patagonia 37, 305-77, 306-7, 340 accommodations 305, 339 climate 305, 339 food 305, 339 highlights 306-7, 340 penguins 443 Monumento Natural Islotes de Puñihuil 291 Monumento Natural Los Pingüinos 14, 349, 14 Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt 205-6 Seno Otway 344, 349 Peninsula de Rilán 300 Petrohué 271-2 Pica 173-4 Pichilemu 116-18 Piñera, Sebastian 431-2 Pinochet Ugarte, Augusto 427-9 Pintados 172 Pirque 83, 25 Pisagua 164 Pisco Elqui 217 pisco sours 217 planning budgeting 16 calendar of events 21-2 children 33-4 Chile basics 16 Chile’s regions 35-7 internet resources 17 itineraries 23-7 travel seasons 16, 21-2 Planta Pisco Capel 214-17 plants 443-4 Plaza de Armas 45 poetry 438-9 police 457 pollution 444, 459 Pomaire 80

4 92

INDE X R-T

Reserva Nacional Las Vicuñas 160 Reserva Nacional Los Flamencos 187-9 Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello-Nalcas 233-4 Reserva Nacional Pingüino de Humboldt 205-6 Reserva Nacional Radal Siete Tazas 123 Reserva Nacional Río Clarillo 83 Reserva Nacional Río Simpson 326 Reserva Nacional Tamango 335 Río Cochamó Valley 272-3 Río Grande 399-400 Río Hurtado Valley 221 Río Liucura Valley 246-7 Río Puelo 273-4 Río Puelo Valley 274-5 Río Rubens 350-1 road rules 470-1 rock climbing, see climbing Ruiz, Raúl 439

S

safety 459-60, 470 salmon 275, 445 Salto del Laja 131-2 San Alfonso 83 San Juan 293 San Juan Bautista 138-40, 139 San Pedro de Atacama 177-86, 178, 186-7 accommodations 181-3 drinking 184-5 entertainment 185 festivals & events 181 food 184-5 information 185 shopping 185 sights 177-8 tours 178-81 travel to/from 185 travel within 185 sand-boarding 30 Santiago 35, 40, 42-3, 46-7, 52, 58, 59, 81, 12 accommodations 40, 61-5 activities 58 children, travel with 61 climate 40 courses 58-9 drinking 12, 69-71 emergency services 75 entertainment 12, 72-4

000 Map pages 000 Photo pages

festivals & events 60-1 food 12, 40, 41, 65-9 highlights 42-3 history 44 information 75-6 internet access 75 internet resources 41 itineraries 45 medical services 75 metro 80, 78-9 money 76 museums 41 postal services 76 shopping 74-5 sights 44-58 tourist information 76 tours 59-60 travel seasons 40 travel to/from 76-7 travel within 79-80 Santiago a Mil 21 Saxamar 155 Selkirk, Alexander 137 Semanas Musicales 21 senior travelers 460 Seno Otway 349 Sepúlveda, Luis 438 Serrano, Marcela 439 shopping 460 Skármeta, Antonio 438 skiing 30 Antillanca 260 Cajón de Mapocho – Tres Valles 85 El Colorado 85 Farellones 85 La Parva 85 Lagunillas 85 Parque Nacional Villarrica 245 Portillo 112 Santiago 85-6 Ushuaia 391 Termas de Chillán 126-8, 31 Valle Las Trancas 126-8 Valle Nevado 85 Volcán Osorno 270 Skyring Sound 350 soccer 73 solo travelers 460 spiders 247, 371, 456 stargazing 183, 213 Sur Chico 36, 223-83, 224-5 accommodations 223 climate 223 food 223 highlights 224-5 history 226

surfing 9, 20, 32 Arica 147, 9 Cobquecura 128 Easter Island (Rapa Nui) 404 Iquique 164 La Serena 207 Pichilemu 116 swimming 30

T

tábano 459 Talca 118-20 Taltal 170 Tapati Rapa Nui 21 taxis 471 telephone services 17, 460-1 Temuco 226-30, 228 Tenaún 293, 9 Termas de Chillán 126-8, 31 Termas de Puyuhuapi 319 theft 459 thermal springs Aguas Calientes 259 Termas de Chillán 126-8 Termas de Puritama 187 Termas de Puyuhuapi 319 Termas de Socos 221 Termas de Tolhuaca 231 Termas del Ventisquero 318 Termas El Amarillo 313 Termas Geométricas 246 Termas Jurasi 160 Termas Los Pozones 246 Termas Peumayen 246 Termas Valle de Colina 84 Tierra del Fuego 37, 378-400, 380-1 accommodations 378 climate 378 food 378 highlights 380-1 Tignamar 155 Timaukel 383-4 time 461 tipping 458 Tiwanaku peoples 421 Tocopilla 170 toilets 461 Tolhuin 399 Tompkins, Douglas & Kris 334 tourist information 461 tours 471-2, see also individual locations train travel 471, 472 transportation 463-72 travel to/from Chile 463-7 travel within Chile 467-72 trekking, see hiking TV 453

4 93

U

V

vacations 459 Valdivia 249-54, 250 Valle Chacabuco (Parque Nacional Patagonia) 13, 332-3, 13 Valle de la Luna 10, 187-8, 10 Valle Las Trancas 126-8 Valparaíso 15, 90-102, 92-3, 108, 15 accommodations 96-8 courses 96 drinking 100 entertainment 100 festivals & events 96 food 98-9

W

walking, see hiking water 456 weather 16, 21-2, 441-2 websites, see internet resources weights 453 whale watching 442 wildflowers 205 wildlife watching 18, 442-4, see also national parks & reserves Monumento Natural Dos Lagunas 326 Monumento Natural Salar de Surire 160 Valle Chacabuco (Parque Nacional Patagonia) 13, 333, 13 wine 435-7 festivals 22, 60 shopping 460 wine regions 20, 436-7 Casablanca Valley 107-8 Colchagua Valley 9, 113-16, 9 Maipo Valley 82, 25 Maule Valley 118-20 Wood, Andrés 440 work 462

Z

Zapallar 109 zoos 51

INDE X U -Z

Última Esperanza 351-67 Ushuaia 390-8, 392-3 accommodations 394-5 activities 390-2 food 395-6 shopping 396-8 sights 390 tours 392-3 travel to/from 397 travel within 398 Uyuni 180

history 90-1 information 101 internet access 101 medical services 101 money 101 shopping 100-2 sights 91-6 tourist information 101 tours 96 travel to/from 101-2 travel within 102 vicuñas 443 Villa Cerro Castillo 327-8 Villa Cultural Huilquilemu 120 Villa O’Higgins 336-8 Villarrica 235-8, 236 Viña del Mar 102-7, 104-5, 108 visas 17, 462 volcanoes 459 Parque Nacional Pali Aike 351 Puyehue-Cordón Caulle 259 Volcán Chaitén 310, 311, 313 Volcán Osorno 270 Volcán Puntiagudo 270, 15 Volcán Villarrica 8, 245, 8 volunteering 462

494

These symbols will help you find the listings you want:

1 r 2 C

Sights Beaches Activities Courses

T z 4 5

Tours Festivals & Events Sleeping Eating

6 3 7 8

Drinking Entertainment Shopping Information/ Transport

These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: % h p n a i

Telephone Numbers Opening Hours Parking Nonsmoking Air-Conditioning Internet Access

W s v E c #

Wi-Fi Access Swimming Pool Vegetarian Selection English-Language Menu Family-Friendly Pet-Friendly

g f m b t j d

Bus Ferry Metro Subway London Tube Tram Train

Look out for these icons:

o

Our author’s recommendation

F

No payment required

S

A green or sustainable option

Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.

Reviews are organised by author preference.

Map Legend Sights

Drinking Beach Buddhist Castle Christian Hindu Islamic Jewish Monument Museum/Gallery Ruin Winery/Vineyard Zoo Other Sight

Activities, Courses & Tours Diving/Snorkelling Canoeing/Kayaking Skiing Surfing Swimming/Pool Walking Windsurfing Other Activity/ Course/Tour

Sleeping Sleeping Camping

Eating Eating

Drinking Cafe

Entertainment Entertainment

Shopping Shopping

Information Post Office Tourist Information

Transport Airport Border Crossing Bus Cable Car/ Funicular Cycling Ferry Metro Monorail Parking S-Bahn Taxi Train/Railway Tram Tube Station U-Bahn Other Transport

Routes Tollway Freeway Primary Secondary Tertiary Lane Unsealed Road Plaza/Mall Steps Tunnel Pedestrian Overpass

Geographic Hut/Shelter Lighthouse Lookout Mountain/Volcano Oasis Park Pass Picnic Area Waterfall

Hydrography River/Creek Intermittent River Swamp/Mangrove Reef Canal Water Dry/Salt/ Intermittent Lake Glacier

Walking Tour Walking Tour Detour Path

Boundaries International State/Province Disputed Regional/Suburb Marine Park Cliff Wall

Population Capital (National) Capital (State/Province) City/Large Town Town/Village

Areas Beach/Desert Cemetery (Christian) Cemetery (Other) Park/Forest Sportsground Sight (Building) Top Sight (Building)

4 80 Behind the Scenes

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481

AUTHOR THANKS Carolyn McCarthy

Jean-Bernard Carillet Heaps of thanks to the team at Lonely Planet, especially Maryanne and Errol, for their trust and to the editorial and cartography teams. Coordinating author Carolyn deserves a grand merci for her support. In Easter Island, special thanks to Antoine, Ema, Sergio Rapu, Tita, Lionel and the people at Sernatur. On the home-front, well-deserved bisous to my daughter Eva and Christine, who are always supportive.

Bridget Gleeson Thank you to my Chilean brother-in-law, Germán Parra, for introducing me to his culture, and to his family, especially Emelina Nanjari, for welcoming me into her home, improving my Spanish, and teaching me what the perfect paila marina should taste like.

Anja Mutić Obrigada, Hoji for joining this adventure and being by my side through the ups and

This Book This 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Chile & Easter Island guidebook was researched and written by Carolyn McCarthy, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Bridget Gleeson, Anja Mutić and Kevin Raub. The previous two editions were also written by Carolyn McCarthy, Jean-Bernard Carillet and Kevin Raub along with Greg Benchwick and Victoria Patience. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following:

Kevin Raub Special thanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, who I might try and convince to move to Chile. On the road, Carolyn McCarthy, Tracy Katelman, Megan Vibet, Margarita Gross, Britt Lewis, Juan Pablo Mansilla, Karin Terrsy, Alfonso Spoliansky, Amory Uslar, Fernando Claude, Rodrigo Venturelli, Ernesto Palm de Curto, Catherine Bérard and all at Secret Patagonia, Kurt Shillinger, Tracy Katelman, Macarena Bruce, Diego Meier, Renato Arancibia, Diego Meier, Mark McMonigal and Sirce Santibeñez.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Cover photograph: Lago Pehoé and Los Cuernos in Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, Chilean Patagonia, Dede Vargas/Getty Images. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.

Commissioning Editor Kathleen Munnelly

Assisting Editors Carly Hall, Anne Mulvaney, Charlotte Orr

Coordinating Editors

Assisting Cartographers

Alison Ridgway, Sophie Splatt

Joelene Kowalski

Coordinating Cartographer Andrew Smith Coordinating Layout Designer Carlos Solarte Managing Editors Barbara

Assisting Layout Designer Wendy Wright Cover Research Naomi Parker

Internal Image Research

Delissen, Bruce Evans

Frank Deim, Claire Gibson

Managing Cartographer

Language Content

Alison Lyall

Branislava Vladisavljevic

Managing Layout Designer Chris Girdler

Thanks to Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Gerard Walker

BEHIND THE SCENES

A trip to Patagonia is a reminder of what’s good in the world. Many thanks go to Pancho Vio, Alejandro Gonzalez, Cristian Solis, Trace Gale, Nicolas, LaPenn, Hernan Jofre, Nadine Lehner, Philippe Reuter, Christel, Mery Bravo and Mirella Delgado. Gratitude goes out to Andres on the Zapata tábano expedition. I am also thankful for the great contributions of my co-authors. Every time I go to Patagonia a car breaks. So thank you, Subarito, for not failing me on the Carretera Austral.

downs; you make the journey infinitely more fun. Hvala mama, for always being in the background as my biggest cheerleader. Thanks to all the great Lonely Planet people, especially my commissioning editor Kathleen and co-author Carolyn. And to all the kindred spirits I met on the road, most notably Eileen Smith in Santiago, who gave me endless insider tips, Ercio in Copiapo and Marcelo in Elqui Valley.

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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