HAIR, SCALP & CONSULTATION
HAIR
THE HAIR SHAFT THE MEDULLA THE CORTEX
THE CUTICLE
THE CUTICLE CLOSED
OPEN
POOR CONDITION OPEN CUTICLES
Porous
Chemicals enter
Poor cuticle condition
GOOD CONDITION CLOSED CUTICLES
Resistant
Chemicals cannot enter as easily
Good cuticle condition
TASK 1 POROSITY TEST 1. Get into pairs and carry out an analysis of each others hair condition. 2. Look at the hair. 3. Listen and discuss previous treatments. 4. Feel the hair; this tells you a lot about the condition.
5. Carry out a porosity test. 6. Discuss the findings
TAKE A FEW STRANDS OF HAIR AND WITH ONE FINGER & ONE THUMB SIDE DOWN TOWARDS THE SCALP. THE MORE RESISTANCE FELT, THE MORE POROUS THE HAIR.
TASK 2 Label the diagram and fill in the missing words from the list at the bottom of the page.
The cuticle is made up of SEVEN to TEN layers of overlapping scales. These scales are TRANSLUCENT, like frosted glass, so that the hair colour can be seen through them. The cuticle is very tough and holds the whole hair together, but it may be damaged by HARSH CHEMICALS such as perms or bleaches or harsh treatments such as BACK BRUSHING.
Answers: BACK BRUSHING, TEN, TRANSLUCENT, HARSH CHEMICALS, SEVEN.
THE HAIR TEXTURE IS DETERMINED BY THE AMOUNT OF CUTLCLE LAYERS
FINE
MEDIUM
COARSE
Very fine hair
Average hair
Very coarse hair
THE CORTEX REAL HAIR
DRAWING
HAIR ELASTICITY
POLYPEPTIDE CHAIN CORTIAL FIBRES LAYERS OF THE CUTICLE
PHYSICAL DAMAGE
HAIR HAS BEEN SHEARED OFF CORTEX RIPPED THE START OF A SPLIT END
TASK 3
Look up elasticity test in the index page of your text book And complete the following sentence; How, why and when do you carry out an elasticity test?
TASK 4 (USE YOUR TEXT BOOKS TO HELP)
The cortex is made from many strands or fibres, which are twisted together. These can stretch, and then return to their original length. Hair is made of a protein called KERATIN. Keratin itself is made of AMINO ACIDS, which are found in long coiled chains called POLYPEPTIDE chains. Various links and bonds hold these chains together. Temporary bonds are HYDROGEN bonds and SALT links. These break and rejoin whenever the hair is STRETCHED or DRIED into a new shape.
Answers: HYDROGEN, KERATIN, POLYPEPTIDE, AMINO ACIDS, DRIED, SALT, STRETCHED.
TASK 4 continued (USE YOUR TEXT BOOKS TO HELP)
Permanent bonds are called SULPHUR bonds; these are very strong and can only be broken by using PERMS or RELAXERS. The cortex also contains colour PIGMENT. These pigments are called MELANIN, which are brown and black, and PHEOMELANIN, which are YELLOW and RED. These can only be altered by permanent TINT or BLEACHED. The medulla is not always present in hair and does not have any real function
Answers: MELANIN, BLEACHED, RED, RELAXERS, YELLOW, PERMS, TINT, PIGMENT, SULPHUR, PHEOMELANIN.
TASK 5 IN GROUPS COMPLETE A LIST OF WHAT CAUSES DAMAGE TO THE HAIR
ENVIROMENTAL
PHYSICAL
CHEMICAL
REGENERATION OF THE HAIR The regeneration of the hair is influenced by the following factors:
• • • • •
Health Diet Age Effects of disease Hormone balance
• • • • •
Heredity factors Climate Physical condition Chemical affects Non stress
TASK 5 Hair is grouped into the following types:
•
Caucasian (European) - Loosely waved or straight hair.
•
Negroid (African) - Tight, kinked, woolly, curled hair.
•
Mongoloid (Asian) - Coarse, straight, lank hair.
PH SCALE With the help of page 19 of your text book write the following onto the pH scale below indicating where they would sit;
• Bleach
• Tint • Shampoo • Water • Hair & Scalp
ACID
NEUTRAL
Then complete the following task
ALKALINE
Look on the packaging to see if you can find the pH value of these products or use the universal indicator paper.
PRODUCT PRE PERM SHAMPOO
COLLEGE SHAMPOO SHAMPOO FROM HOME COLLEGE CONDITIONER 4X4 VITAMIN STYLING PRODUCT HAIR SPRAY FASHION FORM PERM SOLUTION NEUTRALISER TINT PEROXIDE WHEN COLOUR MIXED TINT REMOVER BLEACH WATER
VALUE pH
ACID
PH SCALE - TASK ALKALINE
