Hair colour
Hair colour
Hair colour all theory and preparation for real skills transfer from mannequin activities to live models full mapping to SHB units available SHBHCLS002 Colour and lighten hair SHBHCLS003 Provide full and partial head highlighting treatments SHBHCLS004 Neutralise unwanted colours and tones SHBHCLS005 Provide on scalp full head and retouch bleach treatments individual learner resource for interactive use full colour images comprehensive step by step sequences 98 pages 6 try me activities and 5 full head activites activities include rubrics checklists and planning sheets to complete commercial salon suggested timeframes for practical activities research activities and tasks to complete checklists and planning sheets to reproduce for model completions, transferring real skills from the learning environment to the salon environment suitable for all college students and workplace training sutiable for use with student managed learning and lock step delivery
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CONTENTS
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Introduction .............................................................................................................................3 Chapter 1: Palette ................................................................................................................... 4
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Light ..........................................................................................................................................................4 Level ..........................................................................................................................................................4 Tone ..........................................................................................................................................................6 Colour in hair colour .................................................................................................................................8 Lightening and tonal chemistry ..............................................................................................................9
Chapter 2: Chemistry ............................................................................................................ 11 Hair Structure ..........................................................................................................................................11 The pH scale ........................................................................................................................................... 15 Effects on the skin .................................................................................................................................. 18
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Chapter 3: Colour Products ...................................................................................................21
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Hair colour Products Colour Categories .......................................................................................................................... 21 Activators ......................................................................................................................................22 Mixing and safety .........................................................................................................................22
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Chapter 4: Technical Language ............................................................................................ 26 Chapter 5: Consultation........................................................................................................ 29
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Look books ...............................................................................................................................................30 Create a haircolour plan .........................................................................................................................34
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Chapter 6: Techniques and activities theory.........................................................................36 Lightening ..............................................................................................................................................36 Darkening ................................................................................................................................................36 Toning and neutralising .........................................................................................................................36 Quick techniques ................................................................................................................................... 39 Foiling ..................................................................................................................................................... 40
Chapter 7: The Artist - Design Elements And Principles ...................................................... 42 Design Elements ....................................................................................................................................42 Design Principles.....................................................................................................................................43
Hair Colour
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Chapter 8: Colouring Activities ............................................................................................ 46
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Swatching activities ................................................................................................................................46 Try me techniques 1. Full colour ...................................................................................................................................50 2. Virgin application ......................................................................................................................52 3. Retouch .......................................................................................................................................54 4. Foiling .......................................................................................................................................56 5. Balayage .................................................................................................................................... 60 6. Comb on colour .........................................................................................................................62
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Full head activities 1. Virgin lighten with bleach .........................................................................................................66 2. Scalp bleach retouch application .............................................................................................. 71 3. Dimensional full colour..............................................................................................................76 4. Full head weave foils on round layer .........................................................................................83 5. Balayage .................................................................................................................................... 90
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Chapter 9: Consultation & learning Tools ........................................................................... 96
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Consultation sheet ..................................................................................................................................96 Activity check list ....................................................................................................................................97 Planning sheet ....................................................................................................................................... 98
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Hair colour
Palette is a combination of : Light Colour (tone)
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LIGHT How do we see colour?
Light receptors within the eye transmit messages to
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the brain, which produces the familiar sensations of color. Newton observed that color is not inherent in objects. Rather, the surface of an object reflects some
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colours and absorbs all the others.
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We perceive only the reflected colours.*
Level is the measurement of dark ( depth ) or light of a colour. In hair colour the level is measured from black to blonde. The level system is written in numbers, this makes colour formulations easy to recognize and record in client histories. Each colour brand will have their own variation of the names and level numbers.
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Level ( lightness or darkness)
LEVEL
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Hair colour is not a finite art or skill and is governed by perception, culture and taste. Blue is a range of colours to a range of people as is blonde or red.
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CHAPTER 1 : PALETTE
The generic level system Number
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Name Lightest blonde
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Light blonde
8
Blonde
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Medium blonde
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Dark blonde
5
Medium brown
4
Brown
3
Dark brown
2
Natural black
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Black
*source : au.pantone.com
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Hair Colour
COLOUR (TONE)
6 Tertiary colours
Tone is the recognition of colour. In hair colouring level and tone are combined to create the colour.
The tertiary colours are made from combining primary and secondary colours together.
The colour wheel
Red + orange = Red/orange
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The generic colour wheel has 12 colours
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Orange + yellow = yellow/orange
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Yellow + green = yellow/green
Green + blue = green/blue
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Blue + violet = blue/violet
Violet + red = red/violet
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3 Primary colours
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Primary colours are pure and are used to mix together to create more colours
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3 Secondary colours
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Secondary colours are made from 2 primary colours mixed together. Red + blue = violet
blue + yellow = green
red + yellow = orange
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Hair Colour
Using tone in hair colouring The colours are placed in a specific order on the colour wheel. They sit between the colours which mix and they sit opposite the colours which neutralise them. A neutralised colour will be brown or blonde, a level with natural tone. 6R + 6G = 6N
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Melanin Melanin is the name of the natural pigment types found in hair. Melanin is produced through a healthy production and oxidisation of the amino acid tyrosine, followed by polymerisation. The pigment is produced in a special group of cells known as melanocytes.
Name
Lightest blonde
Natural remaining pigment
Pastel yellow
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Light blonde
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Blonde
Yellow/orange
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Medium blonde
Orange yellow
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Dark blonde
Orange
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Yellow
Medium brown
Red/orange
Brown
Red
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Dark brown
Red
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Natural black
Red
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Black
Red
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There are two basic types of melanin: eumelanin and pheomelanin. The most common type of melanin is eumelanin. There are two types of eumelanin- brown eumelanin and black eumelanin. Eumelanin composition and density will vary for every hair. Natural hair colour from black to blonde, is a combination of eumelanin.
Natural
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Number
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Chemical damage : this is the damage caused by detergents (shampoos), alcohol ( styling and finishing products), hair colour and texture products.
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Environmental or physical damage : this is the damage caused by blowdrying, brushing, elastics and bobby pins, the sun, wind and wear and tear on longer, older hair.
As hair colour is oxidized in the hair shaft, the melanin changes colour and the result we see is called natural remaining pigment. Although every hair strand has its own unique blend of melanin, the natural remaining pigment can be reasonably accurately predicted. The natural remaining pigment will be part of the combined final colour visible after a hair colour service.
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The cuticle can be damaged environmentally or chemically.
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Pheomelanin is pink to red pigment. When pheomelanin is mixed with brown eumelanin, it is largely responsible for red hair.
Eumelanin (Brown)
Mixed Melanin (eumelanin + pheomelanin Blonde) (Brown
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Hair Colour
Pheomelanin
Hair by Rebecca Sun
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Eumelanin (Black)
pH balanced environments ( skin , hair) will feel soft to touch. They will feel firmer, tight or harder when the have a more alkaline pH and will feel softer or even slimey when they have a more acidic pH.
Skin has a healthy state pH of 4.5 - 6. Pure rain water has a pH of 7.
The pH of hair products is an important factor to understand when prescribing chemical services and home hair care.
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The pH Scale is used to measure the acidity of water based solutions. It is measured with numbers from 0 to 14. Lower numbers are acidic, higher numbers are alkaline.
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The pH scale
ALKALINE (BASE) pH
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Examples
Liquid drain cleaner (pH = 14)
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Bleaches, oven cleaner (pH = 13.5)
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13
Ammonia solution (pH = 10.5-11.5)
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Chemical straighteners (pH = 10+)
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Baking soda (pH = 9.5)
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Sea water (pH = 8)
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Blood (pH = 7.5) 8
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7
Professional shampoos (pH = approx 7) Pure rainwater (pH = 7) Milk, urine, saliva (pH = 6.3 – 6.6)
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5 Hair and skin (pH = 5.5)
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Black co�fee (pH = 5)
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3 Grapefruit juice, so�t drink, tomato juice (pH = 2.5 – 3.5)
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Lemon juice (pH = 2)
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Battery acid, Hydrochloric acid (pH = 0)
0
ACID
Hair Colour
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BALAYAGE effect and QUICK COMB ON COLOUR TECHNIQUES
Tips and tricks for great balayage/comb on effects
When is it required?
use the look book pictures as the name balayage is given to many different effects.
These techniques are popular for single process colours and for those not wanting high maintenance retouch services.
deliver the quantity of colour visible in the final result the client is expecting.
BALAYAGE is the name of a traditional French hair colouring technique, literally “painting in a sweeping motion”. Commonly used to describe comb on or quick salon colouring techniques.
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work methodically for speed and accuracy.
take care with possible overlapping in retouch clients. practice on models to build skills (its not as easy as it looks!).
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Why are quick salon techniques popular?
rebook your clients to ensure they have beautiful colour all the time (they are your calling card!).
speed of application.
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longer between salon visits as the demarcation is not obvious.
work cleanly (trolley, tools and partings) and methodically for professional application and salon speed.
fashionable.
Which products can be used?
APPLICATIONS FOR BALAYAGE and COMB ON EFFECTS
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Permanent colour, bleach and high lift tint are all suitable for quick salon techniques.
learn the consultation sheet to ensure a fast consultation with perfect colour choices every time – a fast maintenance colour will bring client loyalty.
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The client has a confidence asking for them as they feel they are not as committed as regrowth generating colours.
Use a variety of tools to find the most appropriate for each hair density and variable colour preference. The tool will need to be fine enough to use like an artists pen for drawing, while delivering enough product to penetrate (wet through) the mesh and apply sufficient colour.
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The product must has a thick viscosity and must not dry out quickly.
Hair Colour
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his Time tit y iv act
FULL HEAD ACTIVITY 3
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Dimensional full colour
Minutes
Other detail: Full colour with a progression of level and tone
For youernt assessm
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Technique: Dimensional full colour application
30tes
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In this colour activity, you will: colour a full head using multiple levels and tones of permanent hair colour.
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In-salon client
This colourist is left handed
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Minutes
Equipment
Pixie layer
Sectioning
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Cutting framework
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Hair Colour
To start Use the manufacturers colour chart. Match the start level and tone on the chart, record on the worksheet. Record the target levels & tones. Mix an amount of colour with developer/peroxide as directed by your educator. Follow the manufacturer instructions for mixing. Record the formula and quantity used on the worksheet. Draw the colour placement and sections to be used on the planning sheet.
