1702705
1-2010
Outline
Foundation and Foundation and Concealer Concealer • Foundation • Concealer • Make‐ Make‐up Base Foundation • Equipment Requirements q p q Ampa Jimtaisong, PhD School of Cosmetic Science MAE FAH LUANG UNIVERSITY 1-2010
Introduction
2
Foundation
• Face powder • Face powder VS Powder foundation
Functions: • Hide the skin flaws • Even out various color tones in the skin • Act as a protectant from the environment • Make the skin surface appear smoother
3
4
J. Ampa
1
1702705
1-2010
Foundation
Foundation
Other properties of ideal foundation
Ideal make‐up foundation’s application • Water resistance • Shade consistency between the bottle
• Moderate fast drying to allow for an even
and the skin tone
application • Non‐settling, pour easily, be stable in storage
• Product should be uniform
• Should not feel tacky, greasy, or too dry
• Coverage will vary with skin types
• Proper play time Proper ‘play time’ and slip and slip
• Finish on the skin: matte, shiny, dewy h h k h d
• Improve the appearance, not artificially
• Wear properties: not peel‐ff, not rub‐
off on clothes 5
6
Powder Compact Foundation
Foundation: Types of foundations
• Powder foundation
Easy to touch up the makeup when one is away from home
• Oil‐based (anhydrous) foundation • Aqueous‐based foundation • Emulsion foundation
7
8
J. Ampa
2
1702705
1-2010
Powder Compact Foundation •
Extender pigments: Talc, mica, sericite pg , ,
•
Whitening & coloring pigments: –
Powder Compact Foundation
TiO2, ZnO, iron oxides
•
Binding agents
•
Perfumes
•
Actives 9
Two‐way powder Foundation •
Used on dry or wet sponge
•
Main type of summer foundation
•
Convenience, cool, refreshing feeling
Powder • Talc 20.3 • Mica 35.0 • Kaolin 35.0 • TiO2 10.0 • TiO2 coated Mica 3.0 • Zinc stearate 1.0 • Iron oxides 4‐5% • Nylon powder 10.0 Bi di Binding agents t • Squalane 6.0 • Lanolin acetate 1.0 • Octyldodecyl myristate4.0 • Sorbitol monooleate0.5 Perfumes, actives
10
Two‐way powder Foundation Powder • Silicone‐treated talc • Silicone‐treated mica l d • Silicone‐treated TiO2 • Silicone‐treated ultrafineTiO2 • Silicone‐treated Iron oxides • Zinc stearate 0.1 • Nylon powder Binding agents • Squalane • Solid paraffin • Dimethyl polysiloxane 4.0 • Glyceryl triisooctanoate Perfumes, actives 11
19.2 40.0 15.0 5.0 4‐5% 2.0 4.0 0.5 5.0
12
J. Ampa
3
1702705
1-2010
Anhydrous Foundation
Two‐ Two‐Way Foundation Make Way Foundation Make‐‐Up • Ingredients % w/w • Dimethicone Treated Sericite Treated Sericite 44 3 44.3 • Dimethicone Treated Talc 37.2 • Dimethicone Treated Titanium Dioxide, Alumina 3.5 • Dimethicone Treated Yellow Iron Oxide 2.4 • Dimethicone Treated Red Iron Oxide 0.9 • Dimethicone Treated Black Iron Oxide 0.3 Binder • Dimethicone 4.4 • Octyldodecyl Oleate 3.5 • Squalane 3.5 • Preservative q.s.
• Powdery, not fluid • Easy to travel with • Autumn and winter
13
Anhydrous Foundation
14
Anhydrous Foundation
• Ingredients • Waxes
• Ingredients • Pigments (often surface treated)
– Beeswax, jojoba, carnauba, candelilla – Paraffin, polyethylene, – Dimethicone copolyol, beeswax, polyglyceryl‐3 beeswax (nice texture, compatibility with beeswax (nice texture, compatibility with silicones) – Fatty alcohols
– TiO2 – ZnO – Iron oxides
15
16
J. Ampa
4
1702705
1-2010
Anhydrous Foundation
Anhydrous Foundation • Ingredients
• Ingredients
• Bioactives
• Wetting agents
– Anti‐inflammatory
– Low HLB emulsifiers
– Moisturizer and skin protectant
– Polyglyceryl esters (polyglyceryl‐3 diisostearate)
– Antioxidant
– Lanolin alcohols
17
Anhydrous Foundation‐‐ Liquid type Anhydrous Foundation
Anhydrous Foundation • Basic formulation E lli t Emollients
30 60% 30‐60%
Waxes
5‐10%
Wetting agents
0.5‐1.0%
Texturing agents
30‐60%
18
• Anhydrous liquid translucent foundation Powder z
Mica
20-25 %
z
Iron oxides
q.s.
Oil phase
• Manufacturing procedure 1.Emollients,Waxes,Wetting agents‐heated 2.Pigment,Texturing agents‐added
z
Carnauba wax
5.0
z
Beeswax
1.0
z
Isopropyl myristate75.0
Perfumes, actives
19
20
J. Ampa
5
1702705
1-2010
Anhydrous Foundation Anhydrous Foundation‐‐ Compact type Cake foundation Compact type Cake foundation
Anhydrous Foundation Anhydrous Foundation‐‐ Cream type
Powder
• Anhydrous cream foundation Powder
•
Talc
17.8
•
Kaolin
15.0
•
TiO2
15.0
•
Iron oxides
4‐5%
z
Talc
to 100
z
Mica
3.0
z
TiO2
20.0
z
Iron oxides
4-5
•
Solid paraffin
•
Microcrystalline wax6.0
•
Beeswax
20 2.0
•
Petrolatum
12.0
•
Lanolin acetate
1.0
•
Squalane
6.0
•
Isopropyl palmitate 18.0
Oil phase
Oil phase z
Carnauba wax
10.0
z
Mineral oil
30.0
z
Isopropyl myristate10.0
z
Lanolin
5.0
Perfumes, actives
21
Anhydrous Foundation Anhydrous Foundation ‐‐ Stick type
3.0
Perfumes, actives
22
Emulsion Foundation
Powder •
Talc
2.8
•
Kaolin
20.0
•
Mica
3.0
•
TiO2
20.0
•
Iron oxides
4‐5%
• Compositions are vary widely depending on degree of coverage and emollient desired. • Stability • Pigment wetting and dispersion
Oil phase •
Solid paraffin
•
Microcrystalline wax7 0 Microcrystalline wax7.0
• Easy spreading and blending
•
Petrolatum
• Good skin feel
•
Dimethyl polysiloxane3.0
•
Squalane
•
Isopropyl palmitate 17.0
Perfumes, actives
3.0 15.0
• Slippery feeling
5.0 23
24
J. Ampa
6
1702705
1-2010
Emulsion Foundation
Emulsion Foundation • Oil‐in‐Water (O/W) Emulsion Foundations
• Formulation considerations Formulation considerations
– Oils and powder are dispersed through the water phase to form an emulsion
– Prolonged skin contact, minimize emulsifier levels to avoid irritant
– Cream and liquid type
– Choose the oils based on low comedogenicity
– Shorter playtime than that of W/O emulsion
– Preservation‐difficult to preserve (gum+water) P i diffi l ( )
– Stability Stability
25
Emulsion Foundation •
26
Emulsion Foundation
Oil‐in‐Water (O/W) Emulsion Foundation – Powder • Talc • TiO2 • Iron oxides
3.0 5.0 ~ 2.0‐3.0
– Oil • • • • •
Stearic acid Liquid paraffin Liquid lanolin Glyceryl monostearate Isohexadecyl alcohol
2.2 8.0 2.0 2.0 70 7.0
– Water • • • • •
Bentonite Deionized water POE sorbitan monostearate Triethanolamine Propylene glcol
– Other materials
0.5 to 100 0.9 1.0 10.0
1. Disperse bentonite in propylene
• Water‐in Oil (W/O) Emulsion Foundations ( / )
glycol, add water, mix well with
– This type has been used for long ago
others in water phase at 70 °C
– Easy to apply, long playtime, oily feel on use
2. Grind the powder ad add to
– Silicone oils—light feel, long wear, water‐resistant
water phase 3 The oil phase is heated to 70 °C 3.The C
–2 2‐layer layer dispersed foundation (shake well dispersed foundation (shake well‐type) type)
4. Add oil phase into water phase
– Cream type‐very popular
and process in a homomixer
– Undergo no change in color with wearing
5. While stirring, cool to 45 °C , and add other materials 27
28
J. Ampa
7
1702705
1-2010
Emulsion Foundation •
Emulsion Foundation
W/O Foundation Cream
•
– Powder
– Powder
1 Mix water phase well at 70 °C 1. C
• Sericite
5.36
• Kaolin
4.0
2. Grind the powder ad add to water
• TiO2
9.32
phase
• Iron oxides
~ 2.0‐3.0
W/O liquid Foundation (2‐layer) • Talc
3.The oil phase is heated to 70 °C
– Oil
7.0
• Silicic acid anhydride
2.0
• TiO2
12.0
• Nylon powder
4.0
• Iron oxides
~ 2.0‐3.0
2. Grind the powder ad add to water phase
– Oil
• Liquid paraffin
5.0
4. Add oil phase into water phase and
• Decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane
12.0
process in a homomixer
• Polyethylene denatutured Polyethylene denatutured dimethylsiloxane
40 4.0
• Pentaerythritol rosinate
1.5
5. While stirring, cool to 45 °C , and
• Neopentyl glycol diisooctanoate
2.0
– Water
1. Mix water phase well
• Octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane
10.0
3.The oil phase is mixed and add oil phase into water phase, process
• Polyethylene denatutured dimethylsiloxane1.5
add other materials
in a homomixer
• Deionized water
to 100
• Dispersing agent
0.1
• Deionized water
to 100
• Propylene glcol
5.0
• Ethanol
7.0
• Propylene glycol
5.0
– Water
– Other materials 29
– Other materials
Emulsion Foundation
30
Emulsion Foundation
Emulsions
1. Direct pigment
¾
Coloration of the emulsion base may be handled in different ways:
¾
The pigments are weighted directly into the aqueous phase and dispersed or colloid milled
1.
Direct pigment
¾
Then, the emulsion is formed
2.
Pigment dispersions
¾
Problems:
3.
Mixed pigment blender
¾
too many color adjustments needed
4.
Monochromatic color
¾
Accurate color matching is difficult
31
32
J. Ampa
8
1702705
1-2010
Emulsion Foundation
Emulsion Foundation
2. Pigment dispersions
3. Mixed pigment blender
¾
¾
The pigments and the extenders are premixed, pulverized, and matched to a standard
¾
Then, dispersed in the aqueous phase of the emulsion and the emulsion is formed
¾
The finished shade is color matched at the powder blender stage
¾
Changes of error are reduced
The pigment is mixed with talc in 50:50 dispersion ratio
¾
Then, pulverized to match a standard
¾
Reduce number of color corrections needed, but d b f l d d b storage may be a problem
¾
Taking time to make the dispersion 33
34
Aqueous‐ Aqueous‐based or Suspension Foundation
Emulsion Foundation 4. Monochromatic color solutions
} Water‐based foundation
¾
Make color concentrates of each pigment in a finished formula
} Water
Easy to color match by blending finished base but much storage space is needed
} Pigment
Possibility of contamination is increased
} Additives
¾ ¾
} Suspending agent } Preservative
35
36
J. Ampa
9
1702705
1-2010
Concealer Product Cover facial blemishes: birthmarks, chloasma, lack of pigmentation Stick or cream form Stick or cream form
Concealer Product
‐
37
38
CONCEALER COMES IN DIFFERENT FORMS
Concealer ¾Solid cream stick
Formulation‐stick form
¾Pot ¾Tube ¾Wand ¾Pencil ¾Oil‐free compact 39
Caster oil
29.4
Butyl stearate
14.0
Petrolatum
5.6
Beeswax
10.5
Ozokerite wax
7.0
Paraffin wax
3.5
TiO2
25.0
Iron oxides
5.0
Procedure Heat the oils, waxes, add the grind powders Pour into mold
40
J. Ampa
10
1702705
1-2010
Make‐‐up Base Foundation Make
Make‐‐up Base Foundation Make
Correct your skin tone, to
achieving flawless and long lasting complexion. Yellow, green, violet, white
41
42
Make‐ Make‐up Base Foundation Complexion:
Make‐‐up Base Foundation Make
Three basic color categories
Yellow = suitable for Dark and Uneven Skin Tone, yellow helps to lighten dark complexion and unified uneven skin tone ki
Sallow: ªYellowish, brownish Yellowish, brownish‐‐yellow or green color
Florid: ªHighly colored, ruddy
Pink = suitable for Dull Skin Tone, pink can lighten and illuminates dull skin tone Use Lilac to calm yellow, sallow skin
Green = suitable for redness skin tone, = suitable for redness skin tone green is very green is very good to tone down the redness
Neutral: ª Little or no color
43
Blue = suitable for slight redness Skin Tone, Very Fair Skin Tone, blue helps to illuminates fair skin tone and tone down slightly redness
44
J. Ampa
11
1702705
1-2010
Equipment Requirements:
Equipment Requirements
Grinding or Dispersing
a Grinding of pigments
a Grinding of the pigment phase into the Grinding of the pigment phase into the
a Mixing and blending of the liquid and the
smallest possible particle size.
powder phases
aColloid mill aRoller mill
45
Equipment Requirements:
46
Choosing the right foundation
Mixing a A steam jacketed tank equipped with some A steam jacketed tank equipped with some
type of agitator (for oil phase) and a steam jacketed tank for water phase a Homomixer
47
48
J. Ampa
12
1702705
1-2010
Choosing the right foundation
Choosing the right foundation Product forms:
Normal Skin Facial Foundations N l Ski F i l F d i
Liquid
Coverage
Cream
Dry Skin Facial Foundations
Product finishes:
Acne/Oily Skin Facial Foundations Combination Skin Facial Foundations
Very sheer Sheer Moderate
Matte
Heavy
Semimatte
Full
Moist Moist semimatte semimatte shiny 49
50
Choosing the right foundation
Choosing the right foundation
Facial Foundation Finishes
Normal Skin Facial Foundations
Finish
Appearance Formulation Skin type Moisturizing ability
Numerous facial foundations of choice Numerous facial foundations of choice
zMatte
Flat, no shine
Oil-free
Oily
Semimatte to moist semimatte to moist semimatte finish
zSemimatte
Min. shine
Oil-free or O/W-based
Oily to Normal
O/W-based O/W based
Normal to dry Dry
zMoistMoistsemimatte
Dewy shine
zShiny
Obvious shine W/O-based
Least
Feature: Moisturizing foundation: additives Sun Protection (SPF) Sun Protection (SPF) Long‐lasting
Most
Natural‐look foundation Liquid or Cream form 51
52
J. Ampa
13
1702705
1-2010
Choosing the right foundation
Choosing the right foundation
Dry Skin Facial Foundations
Acne/Oily Skin Facial Foundations
All day moisturizing foundations
Matte or Matte or semimatte semimatte finish
Easy to apply, long playtime, moist feeling
Oil Oil‐‐free or low oil content
Semimatte or shiny finish
Less coverage More prone to cake
Feature:
Short playtime, difficult to apply
Oil‐based (anhydrous) foundations
W/S emulsions
W/O emulsions
Liquid form
Cream form
Oil selection: Oil selection: comedogenic comedogenic potential 53
Choosing the right foundation
54
References
Combination Skin Facial Foundations The most common skin type yp
1. J. J. B. Wilkinson, R. J. Moore, Harry B. Wilkinson, R. J. Moore, Harry’ss Cosmeticology, 7th ed. Chemical Cosmeticology, 7th ed. Chemical publishing, New York, USA, 1982.
T‐zone : oily central forehead, nose, cheeks
2. T. Mitsui, New Cosmetic Science, Elsevier Science B.V, Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 1997.
No best foundation developed to date
3. M.S. Balsam, E. Sagarin. Cosmetics : Science and Technology. Volume I, II and III, 2nd ed., Wiley‐Interscience, New York, 1972, 1974.
Oil‐ Oil‐control foundation (higher Talc, kaolin) Feature:
4 M 4. M. Paye, A.O. Barel, H.I. Maibach. Handbook of Cosmetic Science Paye A O Barel H I Maibach Handbook of Cosmetic Science Technology. Taylor & Francis, New York, USA, 2006.
O/W liquid emulsions
5. M. G. deNavarre, J.H. Merritt, The Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics, 2nd ed.,Continetal Press, Orlando, FL,USA.,1974.
W/S liquid emulsions
55
56
J. Ampa
14