DIY Submersible Borehole Pump Installation Guide Installing a quality bore pump kit will give you the satisfaction of self achievement, independence and should save you a small fortune over having a bore pump installed by a professional service. Our aim is to provide you with the right pump choice first time through our advanced program at coastpumps.com/bore-pumps as well as supply you with the required information to carry out the entire job with satisfaction and safety.

IMPORTANT! Do not take the challenge lightly, Installing a submersible bore pump down a borehole can cause serious injury if strict safety precautions are not adhered to. Read the last page on safety before commencement of any work. Our recommendations are that the work be carried out as professionally as possible making the site safe and clean to work and having an extra pair of hands to help. CHECK EVERYTHING FIRST Make sure your new bore pump kit has been delivered without damage and that all items have arrived. Immediately contract us if there are any problems, damage or just to confirm the equipment that has been delivered. If everything seems satisfactory you can proceed.

PUMP ASSEMBLY IF NOT SUPPLIED ASSEMBLED Alignment of the motor and pump (wet end) may be required. Remove the electrical cover down one side of the pump end.

Assemble the motor to the pump end being careful to align the pump shaft and motor splines, you may have to get your fingers in there and rotate the pump shaft a few times before the motor and pump splines will align as they are a precision fit. Disconnect the power first as a safety precaution if you have already been testing the motor.

Be aware of the electric motor lead and the slot in the pump as shown, there is only one correct way to align the pump and motor as in the diagram. Nuts and washers are supplied with the motor. After tightening the 4 nuts to a firm tension reinstall the electric cable guard to the outside of the pump and secure at the top with 2 supplied screws

CONNECTING THE PUMP The bore Pump should be connected to suitable poly pipe both in pressure and size. Most bore pumps will at some time be restricted in flow so make sure the poly pipe can handle the maximum pressure of the pump. Rural (green line) poly pipe is suited to pressures below 90 metres head. And can be a cheaper alternative for open delivery pumping such as dam or tank filling. Blue line PE100 is a heavy walled poly pipe that can stand pressures up to 150 Metre head and is recommended for most bore pumps, heavier walled pipes also resist kinking when lowering or retrieving a pump from down the well.

A quality spring loaded check valve (one way valve) is recommended if the pump with be automated to stop back flow, ensure the direction of flow is correct (arrow on check valve points up) Connect the Stainless Steel safety cable directly to the bore pump via clamps and to the bore cap with another 2 clamps. Support of the pump is maintained via the poly pipe with the stainless steel cable just a little slack. Never lift the pump or support the pump via the power cable. Tape the power cable every 3 metres to the poly pipe with duct tape then tape the safety cable every 4 - 6 metres to keep it under control, it's not a critical measurement.

Pump connected to poly pipe via brass check valve with Stainless Steel support cable in place. Brass fittings will give extra added security.

INSTALLING PUMP IN BORE The easiest method of installation is to connect the pump to the pipe and lay the pipe across the ground from the top of the bore. The electric cable should be taped to the pipe at 3 metre intervals to prevent snarling of cable Make sure there is no sand or fine gravel in the water being pumped. In the event that the water is entering the bore from a level above the pump (cascading bore), or in a river or other open water sources such as a water tank, a shroud will be required over the pump to ensure that all water being pumped is drawn over the full length of the motor surface. Always lift and support the pump via safety cable.

NEVER TEST, START OR RUN THE PUMP DRY Starting the pump dry will cause damage, test the motor only without the wet end (pump) before installing the pump down the borehole. With the Single Phase Submersible Bore Pump you can add an Electronic Pressure Controller which will enable automation of watering with run dry shut down or manual pressure switch kit.

Bore cap with pressure switch and valves

fiberglass pressure tank

ENSURE ELECTRICAL POWER IS TURNED OFF AND DISCONNECTED BEFORE INSTALLATION, BORE PUMP REPLACEMENT All electrical connections should be checked before the bore pump is installed into the bore. It is good practice to run the motor briefly before connecting the pump end and installing the pump. LOWERING THE BORE PUMP Align the pump carefully when beginning to lower it down well casing. Do not let the pump, cables or pipe rub against the bore casing, take care that cable insulation is not dragged or scraped over the top lip of the casing. Depth of pump setup. Lower pump into well slowly, the bore pump should be installed at least two to three metres above the bottom of the bore, and one metre below the maximum draw down level. Use Poly Pipe fitting and stainless steel safety support cable to support the pump. When a bore cap is used a coupling is installed on the top end of the pipe and is allowed to rest on the outside of the well seal. Provide a fitting to seal the power cables to support the pipe, power cables, safety cable and pump. Stainless steel support cable should be secured to the bore cap. BORE PUMP FIRST TIME STARTUP Before connecting the pump outlet pipe from the bore, a bend and gate valve should be screwed into the top of the bore cap. Never start the pump at full flow. The gate valve should be only slightly open as recommend. For the first 20 minutes of operation it is suggested to keep the gate valve only slightly open to maintain low flow. If excessive amounts of sand are pumped the pump should be shut down immediately. FREQUENCY OF STARTS Install the correct size of pressure tank to ensure the correct cycling of pump and motor. The average number of starts per day over a period of years influences the life of control components such as starters, relays and capacitors. The pump and tank size and other controls should be selected to keep the starts per day as low as practical for maximum life. Excessive cycling accelerates shortens motor and pump lifespan. Fibreglass tanks have no components that will rust and so are highly recommended especially for bore pumps to reduce pump cycling.

TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE ELECTRICAL Motor fails to start. 1. 2. 3. 4.

Check to determine if power is being supplied Check for open or broken electrical connections. Check control box - overload breaker may need resetting. Check pressure switch or bore level protection device has not disconnected power Motor tries to start but blows fuses or trips overload.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Fuses too small in power main board Motor or cable grounded. Voltage to high or too low. Check control box or starter. Pump may be sand bound or jammed

IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION Never attempt to lower a bore pump by yourself as it will increase in weight as it lowers down the borehole. Always have a second person to help and use rubber lined gloves for traction as the pipes can become slippery. A third person can help by carrying the bore cap connected to the other end and help control the descent rate.

Electrical safety 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Employ the services of a qualified and competent person Always double isolate electrical sources by turning off the power Unplug the supply lead or disconnecting the main power source Confirm the power is disconnected. Operate electrical equipment from a portable RCD for added safety

Do not take shortcuts with it comes to electrical safety

More on electrical at the Australian Government website http://www.justice.qld.gov.au/fair-and-safe-work/electrical-safety Coast Pumps Pty Ltd 13 Ridge Road Maroochydore QLD 4558 http://coastpumps.com/bore-pumps