Cruising California’s

Northern Channel Islands Seminar Handout for use with DVD

Presented by

Marc Hughston US Coast Guard Licensed Master US SAILING Certified Keelboat, Cruising, and Bareboat Cruising Instructor Tel: 949-939-8123 Email: [email protected] 24631 Priscilla Dr. Dana Point, CA 92629

Northern Channel Islands Seminar Plan

Page

DVD Segment Min:Sec

Introduction

3

1:39

Overview of the islands

4

0:55

Getting there - Passage strategies

5

0:52

San Miguel

8

4:26

Santa Rosa

8

3:51

Santa Cruz

10

16:12

Anacapa

13

5:08

On Anchoring

14

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Suggested cruises

15

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Resources

16

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The Northern Channel Islands

© 2006, 2007 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected]

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Introduction to Cruising the Northern Channel Islands Dear Sailing Friend: I have been on a journey that I want to share with you. If you have never cruised California’s Northern Channel Islands, I want to help get you there. If you have been there before and are ready to see more, I want to show you new possibilities. You can do it safely and in good style on a chartered vessel or in your own boat. In this seminar you’ll learn about some of the best ways to do it Why cruise the NCI? I know sailors that have cruised from tens to hundreds of thousands of miles around the world and who also know the NCI, and what they all seem to say in one way or another is this: “If you can cruise the Northern Channel Islands, you can cruise just about anywhere.” The reason is simple - if you can get comfortable with the NCI’s strong and changing wind and weather and challenging anchorages, you will have built skills that will serve you well in every ocean. But that’s only part of the story - it’s not all big wind and high seas. Each island and every season in the islands offers something unique and rewarding, and every cruising and racing sailor should experience it. San Miguel is often one of the windiest places on the coast, but you can spend a peaceful glassy day there in fall and walk the deserted white-sand beach; in spring you can hike up through the outrageous blooms of six foot high Giant Coreopsis. Santa Rosa has Mule Deer, Elk, Torrey Pines, and a ranch house with a tall stack of antlers out front. Santa Cruz has a good cove every few miles, the largest sea cave in the world, fresh water canyons with pools and waterfalls, blow-holes and sea caves and every kind of snorkeling experience. Anacapa has its trademark arch and lighthouse, Cathedral Cove, Bat Ray Cove, and more. And of course there’s the windy lane. In the middle of August off Newport Beach when races are called due to lack of wind, it’s blowing 18-25 in the NCI. Though I love Catalina and Santa Barbara Islands, my heart belongs to the Northern Channel Islands. For me, the reason to cruise the NCI is very simple: it’s much more interesting, challenging and rewarding than Catalina, and it’s well within reach. The coastlines are undeveloped, there are no moorings or stores, and you are completely on your own. The rugged beauty, often strong conditions, abundant sea life, and interesting anchorages combine for an experience that simply has no equal in California. The purpose of this seminar, booklet and DVD is to share my experience and the collected wisdom of others in order to get you to the Northern Channel Islands so you can begin and continue your own voyage of discovery. This material is meant to provide structure and reference for material presented in the seminar – as such, it is not a comprehensive guide on its own. If you’ve never been there before, the best way to gain experience in the NCI is to build your foundation and confidence by sailing there with someone who already knows the area. Then, start exploring on your own and get to know the Northern Channel Islands - an area that offers the best sailing in Southern California. I hope to see you on the water!

Marc Hughston

The Cal 48 Glin de Mar in 28 knots, under reefed main and staysail

© 2006, 2007 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected]

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Overview of the Channel Islands

© 2006, 2007 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected]

Page 4

Getting There - Passage Strategies

© 2006, 2007 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected]

Page 5

Wind Direction and Speed

© 2006, 2007 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected]

Page 6

Swell Pattern

© 2006, 2007 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected]

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Coves of San Miguel Island

© 2006, 2007 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected]

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Coves of Santa Rosa Island

© 2006, 2007 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected]

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Coves of Santa Cruz Island

© 2006, 2007 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected]

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The Painted Cave

© 2006, 2007 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected]

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Nature Conservancy vs. Park Service Property The Nature Conservancy owns the western 76% of Santa Cruz, the land shaded dark green in the diagram below, and a permit is required to land on Nature Conservancy property. No permit is required to access Park Service property.

The Landing Permit Program If you plan to go ashore on The Nature Convervancy’s (TNC) property, you must have a completly executed Landing Permit with you. Fast facts regarding the Landing Permit program • Apply at least 21 days before your trip to give TNC time to mail you executed permit back to you. • Permit is good for 30 days, cost is $20.00 • You may not hike in to the central valley • You may not spend the night ashore • No smoking, fires, or animals are permitted on TNC property Obtaining a permit, and getting information on the web The easiest way to obtain a landing permit from TNC is to download the form from their website. The Nature Conservancy website: http://www.nature.org/?src=t1 Santa Cruz Island web page: Search within TNC website for Santa Cruz Island or visit the page at this URL: http://www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/california/preserves/art6335.html?src=search Landing Permit Program: Search within TNC website for Landing Permit Program or visit the page at this URL: http://www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/california/features/sci_landing.html Click on the link to download the application for the landing permit. © 2006, 2007, 2008 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected] Page 12

Coves of Anacapa

© 2006, 2007 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected]

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On Anchoring 1. Avoid a late afternoon arrival at your chosen cove. In general, late afternoon arrival presents two problems: much stronger winds, and fewer coves to choose from. 2. Be prepared to anchor bow and stern when there is not room to swing on a single hook. This is generally a requirement on most of the north side anchorages on Santa Cruz, including Cueva, Lady’s, Fry’s, Orizaba, and Twin Harbors. In general, motor to the shallow end of the cove, deploy your stern anchor, then motor out and set the bow anchor. 3. Anchorages on Santa Cruz where you can generally swing on a single hook include at the West End, Forney’s Cove; on the North side, Pelican Bay, Prisoner’s, Scorpion and Little Scorpion; off the East End, Smuggler’s provides plenty of room. 4. Down canyon winds are a regular occurrence at coves that lie beneath the canyons of Santa Cruz. As the air on the peaks and ridges cools down, it descends and picks up speed like a river, and comes gushing out of the canyon’s mouth onto the boats at anchor. When this happens you will be lying primarily to your shoreward anchor in what could be gusty winds. 5. Pay attention to how the other boats are anchored, and act accordingly. On the North side, particularly at Fry’s, you may observe other boats anchored with their primary anchor and bow pointed toward shore. If you see this, ask the other boats about the down canyon winds at night. You will probably want to do the same. 6. Stay flexible in your choice of anchorage. If your favorite cove is too crowded, or if you don’t like how your boat lies, move on well before dark. 7. Stay flexible while you are at anchor. Pay attention to changing conditions and have alternative plans in mind. 8. On Santa Cruz in the narrow coves and particularly at Lady’s, Orizaba, and Twin Harbors, be prepared for the Northwest wind to bounce off the Eastern wall and circulate in such a way as to push the boat toward the Western wall of the cove. 9. Make certain you can disconnect the bitter end of your anchor rodes on very short notice. In unsettled conditions if you might have to leave in a hurry, prepare by running the bitter end of the anchor rodes back out through the chocks with fenders tied to the end for flotation. This way you’ll be able to get out when you need to, and retrieve your anchors later. 10. If you are finding it overly difficult to control your boat while setting bow and stern anchors due to side winds in a narrow cove, you should probably pick another anchorage. 11. Mentally prepare yourself to keep an anchor watch. You may not need it at all. But if conditions deteriorate, keep a watch. Equipment • • • •

Three anchors and rodes sized appropriately for your boat, each with a boat-length of chain at minimum. One extra 300’ anchor rode with 50’ of chain. Dinghy and outboard capable of motoring into 20 knots of wind. Trip line and buoy with your boat’s name on it - especially useful at Orizaba. © 2006, 2007, 2008 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected] Page 14

Suggested Cruises Assumes a well prepared and seaworthy cruising sailboat capable of at least 6 knots under power. Distances are rounded up and assume the most direct route. Five day cruise of the Northern Channel Islands Assumes evening departure from NB and early AM arrival at Santa Cruz. Day 1 Newport Beach to Little Scorpion Santa Cruz Day 2 Little Scorpion to Cueva Valdez Santa Cruz Day 3 Cueva to Painted Cave, then Pelican Bay Santa Cruz Day 4 Pelican Bay to Santa Barbara Isl. Day 5 Santa Barbara Isl. to Newport Beach

91NM 14NM 12 NM 52 NM 59 NM 228 NM

Two Week Cruise of the Northern Channel Islands Day 1 Day 2 Day 3 Day 4 Day 5 Day 6 Day 7 Day 8 Day 9 Day 10 Day 11 Day 12 Day 13 Day 14

Newport Beach to Emerald Bay Catalina Emerald Bay to Santa Barbara Island Santa Barbara Isl. to Little Scorpion, then Santa Barbara Harbor Santa Barbara Harbor to Cuyler Harbor San Miguel Cuyler Harbor to Becher’s Bay Santa Rosa Becher’s Bay to Forney’s Santa Cruz Forney’s to Painted Cave, then Cueva Santa Cruz Cueva Valdez to Lady’s Santa Cruz Lady’s to Orizaba or Twin Harbors Santa Cruz Twin Harbors to Little Scorpion Santa Cruz Little Scorpion to Coches Prietos Santa Cruz Coches Prietos to Santa Barbara Isl. Santa Barbara Isl. to Two Harbors Catalina Two Harbors to Newport Beach

34 NM 26 NM 66 NM 40 NM 18 NM 7 NM 9 NM 2 NM 4 NM 9 NM 13 NM 45 NM 28 NM 33 NM 334 NM

Alternate plan for second week – along the South side of Santa Cruz Day 7 Day 8 Day 9 Day 10 Day 11 Day 12 Day 13 Day 14

Forney’s to Willows Willows to Coches Prietos or Albert’s Albert’s to Smuggler’s Smuggler’s to Little Scorpion Little Scorpion to Anacapa Landing Cove, anchor in the lee of the lighthouse cliff Anacapa to Santa Barbara Isl. Santa Barbara Isl. to Catalina Harbor Catalina Harbor to Newport Beach

Santa Santa Santa Santa

Cruz Cruz Cruz Cruz

Anacapa Catalina

12 NM 3 NM 9 NM 3 NM 9 NM 46 NM 27 NM 44 NM

Remember that generally, the Northwest winds intensify in the afternoon and the closer you get to San Miguel the stronger they are. Get an early start, and get to your next anchorage before noon. Always keep your plan flexible and have alternate anchorages and routes in mind in the event of crowding or a change in the weather. Best months are May to October, with early Fall presenting the calmest conditions. Spring conditions March through May are significantly rougher with stronger winds generally more North, making dinghy trips inside the Painted Cave marginal, and making some of the North-side Santa Cruz anchorages difficult – this is a good time for a visit to the South side of Santa Cruz. © 2006, 2007 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected]

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Resources Books The Cruising Guide to Central and Southern California Santa Cruz Island A History of Conflict and Diversity California’s Channel Islands 1001 Questions Answered Sea Cave of Santa Cruz Island Channel Islands National Park A Photographic Interpretation

Brian Fagan John Gherini Marla Daily David Bunnell Tim Hauf

ISBN 0-07-137464-7 ISBN 0-87062-264-1 ISBN 0-945092-13-X ISBN 0-87461-076-1 ISBN 1-885324-10-3

Web Resources Weather NOAA Coastal Marine Forecast http://www.nws.noaa.gov/om/marine/zone/west/loxmz.htm Surface Wind Vectors http://www.weatherflow.com/navair/analysis.html Be sure to scroll down and watch the 12-hour java loop of the Offshore Surface Winds Southern California Swell Model http://cdip.ucsd.edu/?nav=recent&sub=nowcast&xitem=socal_now Ocean Prediction Center http://www.opc.ncep.noaa.gov/ National Data Buoy Center – Southwest California http://www.ndbc.noaa.gov/maps/Southwest_inset.shtml Channel Islands National Park – Official Homepage http://www.nps.gov/chis The Nature Conservancy Homepage http://www.nature.org/?src=t1 Santa Cruz Island page http://www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/california/preserves/ art6335.html?src=search Landing Permit program http://www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/california/features/sci_landing.html San Miguel Island Resource - Channel Crossings Press. San Miguel: The Island http://www.channelcrossings.com/books/SMtheIsland.html

© 2006, 2007, 2008 Marc Hughston • Santana Sailing • 949-939-8123 • [email protected] Page 16