COSMETIC MICROBIOLOGY: HISTORY AND EVOLUTION Phil Geis, PhD
Advanced Testing Laboratory
Cosmetic Microbiology Significance of Our Science/Technology Three Primary Elements Manufacturing control (GMP) Packaging – barriers to profound adulteration Preservation – the only ingredients added EXCLUSIVELY for a safety purpose Record Success since 1970’s >>> foods or drugs Quality tacitly accepted
Microbiological Quality Purpose Worst Case - Third World Cosmetic Products
JEDDAH: The Saudi Food and Drug Authority (SFDA) has called on members of the public not to use Rolana Baby Shampoo after one baby died and 13 others fell ill …polluted with Serratia marcescens,
Cosmetic Microbiology Historic Microbiological Quality Manufacturing and Packaging Primary element of safe food
Nicolas Appert
Cosmetic Microbiology Early 20th Century Pure Foods Act (1906) →FD&C Act (1938) Cosmetics to middle and working classes: L’Oreal and California Perfume Company 1909 1920’s Post crash expansion – Revlon, Almay, Clairol, Shulton Benzoic acid as food preservative Parabens introduced 1923
Cosmetic Microbiology 20th Century – the 40’s and 50’s Post War - mass production of cosmetic products Organized as an industry Toilet Goods Assoc. (now PCPC) - 1943 SCC and CTPA – 1945; JCIA – 1959 Control Elements Manufacturing Preservation: quats, parabens, formaldehyde, Hg Packaging - 25-94% of eye drops contaminated Nat’l Formulary (1949)
Cosmetic Microbiology 20th Century – the 50’s and 60’s Expanding cosmetic market – exposed vulnerabilities Increased concern for cosmetic micro safety Kalling report: Euro cosmetic contamination 40% FDA ‘69 NY study – 25% contaminated Control Elements Manufacturing Preservatives – Parabens, Benzoate, Quats, Formaldehyde, Mercurials Packaging
Cosmetic Microbiology Preservative Focus - Early Methods J&J (Marinaro, 1966): 2 pools, 8 weeks, neat and 5 fold aq. dilutions, < 20/ml Colgate - Palmolive (Owen, 1969): 3 pools, 2 weeks, 100% kill (product streak) by day 7 ICI Pharmaceuticals (Barnes et al., 1969): 5 pools, product neat, 15 inoculations through 5 weeks, neg. culture of loopful on agar Revlon (Lanzet, 1972): 4 pools, 13 weeks, rechallenge @ week 6, > drugs or foods >80% global share served by major marketers Environmental Working Group "Not Too Pretty: Phthalates, Beauty Products and the FDA". “Skin Deep - A Safety Assessment of Ingredients in Personal Care Products".
Growth of “Natural segment” Retailer and Marketer Pressure
Loss of Traditional Preservatives Now Quality compromised by Alternatives and Naturals Consistent reliability of traditional systems US – significantly increased recalls 10 brands 2014 almost all “natural” or alternative systems EU - increasing recalls 15 brands in 2014 almost all “natual”
Loss of Traditional Preservatives Retailer Pressure Negotiations underway – concerns for parabens, EDTA and formaldehyde-releasers Store brands of a MAJOR retailer include (9/2015) Parabens DMDM Hydantoin MIT/CMIT MIT IPBC Na Benzoate Parabens EDTA
Frequency of Use 2010 Frequency of Use (Steinberg, 2010) - Top ~70% Methyl Paraben Propyl Paraben Phenoxyethanol Butyl Paraben Ethyl Paraben Isobutyl Paraben MIT CMIT/MIT DMDM Hydantoin Imidazolidinyl Urea Benzyl Alcohol Caprylyl Glycol * Diazolidinyl Urea
*Multifunctional ingredient
Frequency of Use 2010 Eliminate All with (Imaginary) Risk – Top ~70% Lost Methyl Parabens Propyl Parabens Phenoxyethanol Butyl Paraben Ethyl Paraben Isobutyl Paraben MIT CMIT/MIT DMDM Hydantoin Imidazolidinyl Urea Benzyl Alcohol
European Commission: plans to restrict the use of MCI and MI
Natural Skin Care : The dangers of Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol * Diazolidinyl Urea Sorbic Acid/K Sorbate Benzoic acid/Na Benzoate (?)
*Multifunctional ingredient
Ingredient Watch List: Benzyl Alcohol, Another Irritating Preservative Unsafe for Infants
Frequency of Use 2010– What’s Left? Caprylyl Glycol * Sorbic Acid/K Sorbate Benzoic Acid /Na Benzoate (?) Chlorphenesin (?) DHA/Sodium DHA IPBC (?) Ethylhexylglycerine * Pentylene Glycol * Hexanediol * Grapefruit Seed Extract (!!) Others (
