Contents Sewing Thread

40

Advanced Bonded Polyester

41

Bonded Polyester

42-44

Polyester/Cotton Corespun

45-46

Bonded Nylon

47

Spun Nomex / Braided Polyester

48

Hand Sewing Thread & Wax

49

Sewing Machine Accessories Sewing Machine Needles

53

Sewing Thread

Solarfix Sewing Thread

50 51-52

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

39

Sewing Thread Sewing Thread SEWING THREAD INFORMATION

Sewing Thread

A great deal of thought and effort is required to make a good quality, consistent thread. Consider the demands placed on this product. Thread is expected to be consistent to the point that the tensions on a machine only need to be set once, for any batch. A thread’s colour needs to match from one batch to the next. When going through the needle cycle in an industrial machine the thread is accelerated to over 240 kph in two opposite directions in each stitch. The needle heats up to an amazing degree, enough to fuse certain threads. This is all repeated endlessly while sewing and the threads work through this to produce a flat, strong even seam when properly tensioned and matched to the machine and fabric being sewn. Threads are produced from either natural or synthetic materials, or a mixture of natural and synthetic. Cotton is the most commonly used natural material. Speciality threads made of silk or linen (flax) are available but they are expensive and can be replaced by stronger and more suitable synthetics. Cotton threads are either soft, glazed or mercerized. Soft cotton threads receive no special treatment other than bleaching or dyeing and the application of a uniform low friction lubricant. Glace or glazed cottons are produced from soft cottons that are consolidated then protected by the application of a special surface coating of a starch or similar synthetic formulation which is then brushed as it dries. Mercerized threads are treated under tension in a solution of caustic soda which causes the fibres to swell and become rounder in cross section. This process enhances the lustre of the thread and marginally increases strength of the fibres, as well as improving the ability to absorb colours. Generally, synthetic threads are produced from polyester or polyamide (nylon) fibres or filaments, either on their own or in combination with cotton, rayon or polyester fibres. All threads begin as a simple yarn. These basic yarns are manufactured by twisting together short fibres or fine continuous filaments. The thread is constructed by combining individual twisted yarns. The yarns are then twisted together to prevent the individual yarns from separating during sewing. The twist is defined as the number of turns inserted per centimetre of yarn or thread produced. Twist can be inserted in either direction and is an important property of the thread (see diagram below). A clockwise twist produces a Z twist which is also known as a left twist, and an anti clockwise produces an S twist or right twist. Most machines impart a bit of Z twist to the thread as it goes through, and with S twist thread this would unravel the thread and cause separation and breakage; therefore most thread is given some Z twist, and with the twist imparted by the action of the machine it reaches its equilibrium at the point of sewing. Almost all modern sewing machines require a Z twist thread.

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES SYNTHETIC – (Nylon (Tora)and Polyester (Anefil)) is generally processed to take wet washings at temperatures up to 100˚C or dry cleaning temperatures up to 150˚C without shrinkage. Softening of these fibres begins at about 230˚C and melting begins to occur at about 260˚C. Synthetic threads are not significantly affected by moisture, rot, mildew, insects or bacteria. Both nylon and polyester threads have exceptionally high tenacity (especially in continuous filament form) and also have high resistance to abrasion. Both possess good resistance to chemicals in general: nylon being more suitable where alkaline conditions apply while polyester is recommended for resistance to acids and ultra violet (UV) radiation. CORESPUN THREADS – (Duro) use a strong polyester core with a cotton or spun polyester outer wrap and receive the benefits of both worlds. The fibre wrap over the continuous filament core gives these threads a superior all round performance. The thread lubricant is carried well by the surface fibres and combined with the effects of air carried to the needle during sewing results in good performance. These threads are designed to maintain good loop formation even in multi directional sewing.

Clockwise produces a left or ‘Z’ twist (STANDARD TYPE THREAD)

40

Counter-clockwise produces a right or ‘S’ twist

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

Sewing Thread Advanced Bonded Polyester SUNSTOP BONDED POLYESTER Sunstop Bonded Polyester is manufactured from high tenacity continuous filament polyester yarn with new proprietary process for advanced protection against degradation and fading. Also, improves strength retention. Sunstop Bonded Polyester outperforms competitive UVR products (confirmed by independent outside test labs; SAE J1885; AATCC 16-2004 Option3). Anti Wick Consistency in diameter Low moisture retention – not subject to mildew High chemical resistance High abrasion resistance

Cone Size in Ounces

Equivalent Metric Size

207/210

16

Item Code

Tex Size

SUN207W

• Consistency in physical characteristics. • High seam strength • Very good sewability • Improved ultraviolet (UV) light resistance

Recommended Needle Size Light Fabric/Heavy Fabric Metric

Singer

Breaking strain kg

M14

150/160

23

13

Colour

Approx. metres per cone

In boxes of

White

1,800

10

SUN207B

207/210

16

M14

150/160

23

13

Black

1,800

10

SUN138W

138/135

8

M20

130/160

21/23

10

White

1,500

10

SUN138

138/135

8

M20

130/160

21/23

10

Colours

1,500

10

SUN92W

92/90

8

M30

110/130

18/21

6

White

2,200

10

SUN92

92/90

8

M30

110/130

18/21

6

Colours

2,200

10

UV White

UV Natural

UV Silver

UV Cadet Grey

UV Sandalwood

UV Linen

UV Toast

UV Beige

UV True Brown

UV Forest Green

UV Jockey Red

UV Logo Red

UV Burgundy

UV Pacific Blue

UV Captain Navy

UV Navy

UV Sol Jet Black

Advanced Bonded Polyester

• • • • •

CAUTION It is occasionally possible for fabrics to be sewn to contain agents which encourage pigment migration from coloured threads and we recommend that the following be carried out before use. Take a small coil of thread intended for use and put it between two pieces of damp fabric to be sewn. Place a 5kg weight on top and leave for 24 hours after which check if any pigment migration has occured. DO NOT USE if there is any doubt concerning pigment migration.

NOTE: Although Anefil and Sunstop Bonded Polyester threads have good UV resistance, they are not immune to ultra violet (“UV”) degradation and they may deteriorate from continuous or prolonged exposure to the elements, temperature extremes or chemicals. If the thread is intended to be used for sewing shade sails, QCD recommends using at least Size 207 thread, as any smaller or thinner thread is neither strong enough nor resistant enough for that use. Anefil and Sunstop Bonded Polyester thread do not come with any express manufacturer’s warranty.

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

41

Sewing Thread Bonded Polyester SUNSTOP BONDED POLYESTER ANEFIL BONDED POLYESTER™ Anefil Bonded Polyester is produced from twisted continuous multi-filament Polyester yarn. The thread goes through a specially formulated bonding process which ensures that the twist piles remain together even during multi-directional sewing operations. Anefil Bonded Polyester is ideal for jobs that require strength and colour retention when the thread is exposed to UV sunlight radiation and acidic materials (e.g., salt water, diesel etc.)

Bonded Polyester

• • • • • •

High ultraviolet (UV) light resistance Consistency in diameter Consistency in physical characteristics High chemical resistance High abrasion resistance Solution dyed Anefil Poly has very good colour fastness Item Code

Size

SYN415

415

SYN415

415

Equivalent Metric Size

Recommended Needle Size Light Fabric/Heavy Fabric

• High seam strength • Excellent sewability • Low moisture retention not subject to mildew.

Metric

Singer

Breaking strain kg

M7

230/250

26/27

M7

230/250

26/27

White

Colour

Approx. metres per cone

In boxes of

26

White

950

10

26

Colours*

950

10

Black

SYN350

350

M8.5

200/230

25/26

22

White

1,050

10

SYN350

350

M8.5

200/230

25/26

22

Colours*

1,050

10

White

Alpine Green

Black

SYN270

270

M10

160/200

23/25

17

White

1,250

10

SYN270

270

M10

160/200

23/25

17

Colours*

1,250

10

White

Black

SYN210

210

M14

150/160

23

13

White

1,800

10

SYN210

210

M14

150/160

23

13

Colours*

1,800

10

White

Forsythia

Royal Blue

Scarlet

SYN135

135

M20

130/160

21/23

10

White

3000

10

SYN135

135

M20

130/160

21/23

10

Colours*

3000

10

White

Natural

Forsythia

Mist

Silver

Smoke

Pebble Beige

Sable

Chinese Rust

Beaver

NOTE: For any special colour requirements we require a minimum order of 20 spools per colours.

42

Black

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

Sewing Thread Bonded Polyester ANEFIL BONDED POLYESTER™ (CONTINUED)

Carafe Green

Wedgewood

Navy

Pacific Blue

Rubytone

Alfalfa

Khaki - ODS1

Black

Size

SYN90

90

SYN90

90

Equivalent Metric Size

Recommended Needle Size Light Fabric/Heavy Fabric Metric

Singer

Breaking strain kg

M30

110/130

18/21

6

White

4,400

10

M30

110/130

18/21

6

Colours*

4,400

10

Colour

Approx. metres per cone

In boxes of

White

Natural

Linen

Mahogany

Pacific Blue

Rubytone

Alfalfa

Beaver

Chinese Rust

Carafe Green

Forsythia

Gold Brown

Mist

Navy

Pebble Beige

Sable

Scarlet

Smoke

Toast

Wedgewood

Bonded Polyester

Item Code

Scarlet

Black SYN70

70

M40

90/110

14/18

4

White

5,200

10

SYN70

70

M40

90/110

14/18

4

Colours*

5,200

10

White

Steel

Linen

Toast

Mahogany

Navy

Scarlet

Alfalfa

Carafe Green

College Blue

Copenhagen Blue

Chinese Rust

Forsythia

Mist

Orange Tobbogan

Purple

Pebble Beige

Smoke

Walnut

Wedgewood

Black

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

43

Sewing Thread Bonded Polyester ANEFIL BONDED POLYESTER™ (CONTINUED) SYN46

46

M60

80/90

12/14

3

White

7,500

10

SYN46

46

M60

80/90

12/14

3

Colours*

7,500

10

Bonded Polyester

White

44

Black

SYN35

35

M80

80/90

12/14

1.67

White

10

SYN35

35

M80

80/90

12/14

1.67

Black

10

12/14

1.67

White

10

White SYN30

Black 30

M100

80/90

White

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

Sewing Thread Polyester/Cotton Corespun SUNSTOP BONDED POLYESTER DURO

Item Code

Equivalent Metric Size

TDUR08 TDUR08

Recommended Needle Size Light Fabric/Heavy Fabric

Breaking strain kg

Colour

Approx. metres per cone

In boxes of

Metric

Singer

M8

200/230

25/26

15

Natural

1750

5 spools

M8

200/230

25/26

15

Colours*

1750

5 spools

Natural

Drab VC153

Brown VC179

Black

TDUR012

M12

160/200

23/25

10

Natural

2500

5 spools

TDUR012

M12

160/200

23/25

10

Colours*

2500

5 spools

White

Natural

Beige VC148

Drab VC153

Grey VC140

Charcoal Grey VC142

Brown VC179

Forest Green VC113

Light Green VC108

Army VC116

Green VC105

Blue VC126

Cap. Red VC193

Black

TDUR020

M20

130/160

21/23

7

Natural

2000

10 spools

TDUR020

M20

130/160

21/23

7

Colours*

2000

10 spools

White

Natural

Beige VC147

Beige VC148

Real Beige VC160

Drab VC153

Olive Drab VC115

Grey VC140

Charcoal Grey VC142

Brown VC179

Forest Green VC113

Army VC116

Erin Green VC108

Green VC105

Light Blue VC125

Royal VC127

Navy VC129

Blue VC126

Burgundy VC201

Cap. Red VC193

Red VC194

Yellow VC185

Hot Pink

Purple VC209

Black

Polyester/Cotton Corespun

Duro is manufactured from polyester/cotton corespun yarns. Each yarn is produced by spinning a sheath of cotton around a core of continuous polyester filament. This gives the thread the qualities of a cotton thread (low needle temperature, swelling action when wet to seal needle holes) whilst retaining many of the advantages of synthetic thread (strength, durability) Duro has special mould inhibitors included for durability as well as lubricants to ensure easy and consistent sewing.

NOTE: For any special colour requirements we require a minimum order of 20 spools per colours.

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

45

Sewing Thread Polyester/Cotton Corespun

Polyester/Cotton Corespun

DURO (CONTINUED)

46

Item Code

Equivalent Metric Size

TDUR025 TDUR025

Recommended Needle Size Light Fabric/Heavy Fabric Metric

Singer

M25

120/140

19/22

M25

120/140

19/22

Breaking strain kg

Colour

Approx. metres per cone

In boxes of

5

Natural

2500

10 spools

5

Colours*

2500

10 spools

White

Natural

Beige VC148

Beige VC160

Drab VC153

Drab VC157

Drab VC157

Light Grey VC135

Grey VC139

Charcoal Grey VC142

Brown VC179

Green VC105

Forest Green VC113

Army VC116

Nato Green VC117

Black

Smoke Blue VC127

Steel Blue VC129

Light Blue VC125

Blue VC126

Dark Navy VC133

Red VC194

Burgundy VC201

Berry VC200

Yellow VC185

Hot Pink TDUR036

M36

100/120

16/19

3

Natural

4000

10 spools

TDUR036

M36

100/120

16/19

3

Colours*

4000

10 spools

White

Natural

Beige VC148

Drab VC155

Real Beige VC160

Drab VC156

Drab VC155

Brown VC179

Brown VC181

Forest Green VC113

VC107

Army VC116

Green VC105

Fed Green VC207

Grey VC136

Grey VC135

Grey VC136

Grey VC139

Grey VC142

Tan VC166

Tan VC167

Tan VC169

Burgundy VC201

Red VC203

Red VC194

Light Blue VC125

Steel Blue VC129

Blue VC126

Navy VC132

Dark Navy VC133

Purple VC209

Yellow VC185

Black

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

Sewing Thread Bonded Nylon TORA™

Item Code

Equivalent Metric Size

TTORA13

Recommended Needle Size Light Fabric/Heavy Fabric

Breaking strain kg

Colour

Approx. metres per cone

In boxes of

23/25

14

White

2500

5 spools

130/160

18/21

10

White

1500

10 spools

M20

130/160

18/21

10

Colours

1500

10 spools

TTORA40

M40

90/110

14/18

4

White

3000

10 spools

TTORA40

M40

90/110

14/18

4

Colours

3000

10 spools

TTORA60

M60

80/90

12/14

3

White

5000

10 spools

TTORA60

M60

80/90

12/14

3

Colours

5000

10 spools

Metric

Singer

M13

160/200

TTORA20

M20

TTORA20

White

Grey VN763

Black

Bonded Nylon

Tora is produced from high tenacity continuous filament Nylon 6.6 yarn. The thread goes through a specially formulated bonding process which ensures that the twist piles remain together even during multi-directional sewing operations. Tora provides very high strength, combined with exceptional abrasion resistance.

NOTE: For any special colour requirements we require a minimum order of 20 spools per colours.

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

47

Sewing Thread Braided Polyester MOX™ WAXED

Spun Nomex / Braided Polyester

Mox is a braided polyester hand sewing thread that has been treated with a synthetic wax to allow easy sewing through the heaviest of leathers. The braiding helps avoid the problem of untwisting of thread. Silicon Finish applied, designed to be used on sewing machines.

48

Item Code

Size in mm

Colour

Metres per Cone

TMS6BL/BR

0.6mm

Black & Brown - Silicon Finish

1000

TM6

0.6mm

White, Black, Brown Yellow

1000

TM8

0.8mm

White, Black, Brown Yellow

400

TM1

1.0mm

White, Black, Brown, Yellow

400

TM1.2

1.2mm

White, Black, Brown, Yellow

400

TM1.4

1.4mm

White, Black, Brown, Yellow

400

TM1.6

1.6mm

Black

400

Spun Nomex SPUN NOMEX THREAD Nomex staple spun sewing thread manufactured from Dupont Nomex designed to provide seam integrity and long term heat or flame resistance. Available in a variety of colours including uniform shades. Excellent resistance to long term heat exposure, Superior abrasion resistance, Good resistance to most organic solvents. Age has limited effect on physcial properties. Features: • Fibre Resistance to Acid- Excellent

• Fibre Resistance to Heat 210°C (Highest continuous temperature before breakdown)

• Fibre Resistance to Bleach- Good • Fibre Resistance to Alkali- Good • Fibre Abrasion Resistance- Good • Fibre Melting Point- N/A (Does Not Melt)

For increased strength and cut protection, Para-Aramid thread, such as Kevlar® or Anefil® Kevlar® are recommended Item Code

Equivalent Metric size

Tex Size

Approx. metres per cone

TNXS40

75

40

TNXS60

50

60

TNXS80

36

80

5,500

Needle Size

Colour

Strength (Lbs.)

Strength (Grams)

5,500

90

Black/ White

2.5

1134

5,500

100

Black/ White

3.5

1588

110

Black/ White

5.4

2449

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

Sewing Thread Hand Sewing Thread & Wax POLYESTER SAILTWINE • Easy to wax, no kink polyester hand sewing sailtwine.

HEMINWAY & BARTLETT PRE-WAXED HAND SEWING THREAD

Part No.

Size

Colour

Pack Qty

Q381

5-ply x 227g/8oz

White

1

Part No.

Size

g/lb

Q382

7-ply x 227g/8oz

White

1

HEW346

V-346

450/1

HEW462

V-462-M

450/1

HEW499

V-9-C

450/1

SAILMAKERS WAX

WAXED SAILTWINE BOBBINS

• Natural bees wax C040.

• • • •

Part No.

Description

HC040

50g of Thread Wax

Pre-Waxed thread equivalent to EW499 wound into bobbins. Ideal for sail repair kits. Sailtwine is sold in full packs only. 12 bobbins per pack. Approximately 24m/27 yards per bobbin.

Part No.

Size

Per Pack

HEW500

V6M

12

Hand Sewing Thread & Wax

• Supplied on spools. • Available only in white.

WAXED LACING TAPE • Flat braided to lie flatter than normal.

Part No.

Description

Color

HEW351

Spool of 500yd

White

Width (mm/in) 1.6/0.06

HEW352

Spool of 500yd

White

3.2/0.125

HEW352BK

Spool of 500yd

Black

3.2/0.125

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

49

Sewing Thread Hand Sewing Thread & Wax THREAD LUBRICATORS

SEWING MACHINE OIL

Sewing Machine Accessories

• Lubricator box fixes securely to sewing machine to lubricate thread as you sew. • Does not require removal from sewing machine for refilling. • Magnet on base holds lubricator firmly in place.

50

Part No.

Description

Use With

HC061

Lubricator Box with Felt Pads and Reservoir

M305

• Lubricator box fixes securely to sewing machine to lubricate thread as you sew. • Does not require removal from sewing machine for refilling. • Magnet on base holds lubricator firmly in place.

THREAD LUBRICANT • M-301 - Non-toxic combination of petroleum lubricants and silicone oils. Thread is dipped for a few minutes into the lubricant for application. • M305 - Concentrated silicone. Lubricant is applied to felt pads in lubricator boxes or placed in reservoir of C061 style lubricator. • Use on cotton, Dacron, nylon and other synthetic thread or old thread from which the manufacturers lubricant has evaporated.

Part No.

Description

M301

1 Quart (32 Ounces /0.95 Liters)

Dipping

M305

1 Quart (32 Ounces /0.95 Liters) Concentrated

Lubricator

Part No.

Description

M321

1 Quart (32 Ounces /0.95 Liters)

M322

1 Gallon (128 Ounces / 3.6 Liters)

OIL BOTTLE • Application bottle has screw-on cap to prevent accidental spills when bottle is on its side.

Use With

Part No.

Description

HC063

4 Ounce Bottle with Long Pour Tube and Cap

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

Sewing Thread Sewing Machine Needles SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE SELECTION CHART

Groz-Beckert sewing machine needles represent a level of craftsmanship which few can equal. They have been designing and producing needles for over 130 years, and are known worldwide for producing extremely high precision needles. We guarantee that every needle you purchase has been engineered for reliability - stitch after stitch.

SEWING MACHINE NEEDLE FACTS Needle Thread Breakage/Fraying Causes: • There are several causes of thread breakage or fraying. Usually it is the result of some interference with the needle thread. • Any sharp edge along the path the needle thread travels can cause this failure. This includes the thread guides, needle, needle hole plate, presser foot, feed dog and looper. These areas must be free of burrs and sharp edges. • Too tight tension can also cause thread breakage or fraying. Thread breakage could result from excessive needle heat.

• Every single Groz-Beckert sewing machine needle is string polished with an eye matching thread and polishing compound to achieve a smooth thread protective surface. • Many other needle system styles are available. Please consult with your representative for precise sewing machine to needle compatibility. Part No.

System

Part No.

System

Adler 67

134

Singer 107

135x7

Adler 98-2

134-5

Singer 111W100

135x7

Adler 166-1

328

Singer111W112

135x17 135x7

Adler 167

134

Singer 167

Pfaff 138, 238

134

Singer 211G151

135x7

Pfaff 145

134

Juki LU562

135x17

Pfaff 545

134

Juki LH512

135x7

Consew 272

134

Juki LU651

135x17

Consew 206RB

135x17

Bernina 217-25

278WKH

Needle Recommendations: • Check for correct needle size. • Try a larger size needle. Skip Stitches Basic Reason: Inability to obtain proper formation of the needle thread loop or failure of the looper or hook to enter the thread loop at the proper time and place. Some Causes: • Timing of looper or hook is incorrect. • Incorrect setting of the take up and pull off devices. • Loss of thread control (too large an eye in the needle, usually resulting from needle size being too large for thread being used). • Needle vibration or staggering. • Incorrect hole size in throat plate. • Needle being deflected by resistance of material (multi-plies of material, elastic inserts, etc.). • Needle crooked or bent.

SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES Thread - Metric

80

90

100

110

120

130

140

160

180

200

Thread - Singer

12

14

16

18

19

21

22

23

24

25

V-30 V-46 V-69 V-92

Hints: • Rotate needle slightly so it throws the needle thread loop into the looper. • Check machine setting and thread tension. • If possible, try larger size needle Needle Breakage Causes: • Too small a size needle being used to perform the seaming operation. • Incorrect needle being used in machine. • Machine interference - looper hitting needle, feed dog timing, too small a hole in throat plate. A: Chemically polished needle eye. B: Groz-Beckert string polished needle eye. A

B

BASIC MANUFACTURING SEQUENCE Blank

V-138 V-207 V-346 Part No.

Maximum Cord Size (mm/in)

Size

NN30/0/140

System 328

140

NN30/0/160

System 328

160

NN30/0/180

System 328

180

NN40/0/100

System 134, 135 x 7

100

NN40/0/110

System 134, 135 x 7

110

NN40/0/120

System 134, 135 x 7

120

NN40/0/125

System 134, 135 x 7

125

NN40/0/130

System 134, 135 x 7

130

NN42/0/110

System 135 x 17

110

NN42/0/120

System 135 x 17

120

NN42/0/125

System 135 x 17

125

NN42/0/130

System 135 x 17

130

NN42/0/140

System 135 x 17

140

NN42/0/160

System 135 x 17

160

NN44/0/110

System 134 x 35

110

NN44/0/120

System 134 x 35

120

A

A Swage

NN44/0/130

System 134 x 35

130

B C

B

Strike Groove

NN44/0/140

System 134 x 35

140

C

Pierce Eye

D

Mill Flash

E

Mill Groove

F

Point, Harden, Polish, Straighten

D E F G

Sewing Machine Needles

SEWING MACHINE NEEDLES

Coil-Wire

G Finish Point, Buff - Tumble Plating, Finish Buff, Final Inspection

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

51

Sewing Thread Sewing Machine Needles

Sewing Machine Needles

WALKING FOOT

52

Item Code

Description

Groz Beckert 134

Size 70 Regular

Groz Beckert 134

Size 80 Regular

Groz Beckert 134

Size 90 Regular

Groz Beckert 134

Size 100 Diamond

Groz Beckert 134

Size 100 Regular

Groz Beckert 134

Size 110 Diamond

Groz Beckert 134

Size 110 Regular

Groz Beckert 134

Size 120 Diamond

Groz Beckert 134

Size 120 Regular

Groz Beckert 134

Size 130 Diamond

Groz Beckert 134

Size 130 Regular

Groz Beckert 134

Size 140 Diamond

Groz Beckert 134

Size 140 Regular

Groz Beckert 134

Size 180 Regular

Item Code

Description

Groz Beckert 134-35

Size 80 Regular

Groz Beckert 134-35

Size 90 Diamond

Groz Beckert 134-35

Size 90 Regular

Groz Beckert 134-35

Size 100 Regular

Groz Beckert 134-35

Size 110 Diamond

Groz Beckert 134-35

Size 110 Regular

Groz Beckert 134-35

Size 120 Diamond

Groz Beckert 134-35

Size 120 Regular

Groz Beckert 134-35

Size 130 Diamond

Groz Beckert 134-35

Size 130 Regular

Groz Beckert 134-35

Size 140 Regular

Groz Beckert 134-35

Size 150 Diamond

Item Code

Description

Groz Beckert 135 x 16

Size 125 Triangle Point

Item Code

Description

Groz Beckert 135 x 17

Size 90 Regular

Groz Beckert 135 x 17

Size 100 Regular

Groz Beckert 135 x 17

Size 110 Regular

Groz Beckert 135 x 17

Size 120 Regular

Groz Beckert 135 x 17

Size 130 Regular

Groz Beckert 135 x 17

Size 140 Regular

Groz Beckert 135 x 17

Size 160 Regular

Groz Beckert 135 x 17

Size 180 Regular

Item Code

Description

Groz Beckert 16 x 231

Size 90 Regular

Groz Beckert 16 x 231

Size 100 Regular

Groz Beckert 16 x 231

Size 110 Regular

Item Code

Description

Groz Beckert 214 x 1

Size 120 Regular

Groz Beckert 214 x 1

Size 130 Regular

Groz Beckert 214 x 1

Size 140 Regular

Groz Beckert 214 x 1

Size 160 Regular

Groz Beckert 214 x 1

Size 180 Regular

Groz Beckert 214 x 1

Size 200 Regular

Groz Beckert 214 x 1

Size 230 Regular

Item Code

Description

Groz Beckert 216 x 1

Size 160 Regular

Groz Beckert 216 x 1

Size 180 Regular

Groz Beckert 216 x 1

Size 200 Regular

Item Code

Description

Groz Beckert 287 WKH

Size 80 Regular

Groz Beckert 287 WKH

Size 90 Regular

AF-135 Groz Beckert 287 WKH

Size 100 Regular

Groz Beckert 287 WKH

Size 110 Regular

Groz Beckert 287 WKH

Size 120 Regular

Item Code

Description

Groz Beckert 438

Size 80 Regular

Groz Beckert 438

Size 90 Regular

Groz Beckert 438

Size 100 Regular

Groz Beckert 438

Size 110 Regular

Groz Beckert 438

Size 120 Regular

Item Code

Description

Groz Beckert 7 x 23

Size 140 Regular

Groz Beckert 7 x 23

Size 160 Regular

Groz Beckert 7 x 23

Size 180 Regular

Groz Beckert 7 x 23

Size 200 Regular

Item Code

Description

Groz Beckert 794H

Size 120 Regular

Groz Beckert 794H

Size 140 Regular

Groz Beckert 794H

Size 160 Regular

Groz Beckert 794H

Size 180 Regular

Groz Beckert 794H

Size 200 Regular

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

Sewing Thread Solarfix Sewing Thread QCD takes great pride in bringing the latest and most innovative products to our New Zealand market. For some time now we have been looking for a PTFE sewing thread with improved sewability. SolarFix® gives us this feature and as an added bonus it is also more cost effective than other brands of similar thread. As you all know, flatter sewing threads can cause machine issues while sewing. SolarFix sewing thread are made in such a way that they are rounder than other PTFE sewing threads and therefore sew much better. SolarFix® PTFE offer a written warranty to all original owners of fabric articles sewn exclusively with SolarFix® PTFE sewing thread. This warranty is for the shorter period of 8 years or the life of the fabric article which it is sewn exclusively with SolarFix® PTFE sewing thread. SolarFix® PTFE thread will not lose any significant strength due to UV or chemical exposure, unlike conventional polyester, nylon and cotton threads.

SOLARFIX ® PTFE SEWING THREAD WARRANTY AY Tech LLC represents and warrants to qualified original owners of fabric articles, on which SolarFix® PTFE sewing thread will not break due to exposure to sunlight, weather, or water, for shorter period of eight (8) years or for the life of the qualified fabric article. AY Tech LLC will replace any SolarFix® PTFE sewing thread that fails to meet the express warranty described herein. In addition, AY Tech LLC will pay an authorised fabricator for the reasonable and customary expense of re-stitching any fabric article that was entirely stitched with SolarFix® PTFE sewing thread. To enjoy this express warranty, please cut and then mail the Warranty Registration Card provided to: AY Tech LLC, 4001 Kennett Pike, Ste. 134-211, Greenville, DE 19807-2000, USA. This warranty does not cover damage from fires, cuts, abrasion, improper sewing, when applied to sails, or when applied to material that includes stitching with material other than SolarFix® PTFE sewing thread. Nor shall AY Tech LLC be responsible for any defects that arise from the owner’s misuse or by external forces other than exposure to sunlight, weather, or water. Other than the above express warranty, there are no warranties, express or implied, provided for any products, materials, or services furnished by AY Tech LLC. The exclusive remedy described herein shall constitute complete fulfillment of all liabilities and responsibilities of AY Tech LLC to the owner and shall constitute full satisfaction of all claims, whether based on contract, negligence, and strict liability or otherwise. The Owner agrees that no other remedy for failure to perform (including, but not limited to incidental or consequential damages for lost sales, lost profits, infury to person or property) shall be available.

Solarfix Sewing Thread

SOLARFIX ® PTFE SEWING THREAD BY AYTECH

Call us to discuss the correct Solarfix thread for your job.

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]

53

Notes

54

QCD Limited, 28 Hargreaves Street, Ponsonby, Auckland 1011, New Zealand | PO Box 47760, Ponsonby, Auckland 1144, New Zealand Phone: +64 9 366 7118 | Freephone: 0800 240 040 | Fax: +64 9 366 7119 | E-mail: [email protected]