Colour-Fade Defence: The Future of Sustainable Hair Styling. Anna Crovetto, Marketing Manager Europe

Colour-Fade Defence: The Future of Sustainable Hair Styling Anna Crovetto, Marketing Manager Europe Contents Hair Colour Protection A unique Approac...
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Colour-Fade Defence: The Future of Sustainable Hair Styling Anna Crovetto, Marketing Manager Europe

Contents Hair Colour Protection A unique Approach: Kerazyme® Protect Study Protocol Efficacy Data Summary Bibliography

Hair Colour Protection • Hair is coloured for many reasons, to promote confidence, to stand out from the crowd and to follow fashions • 72% of people asked believed that hair colour improved their attractiveness, confidence and sense of well being2 • However, coloured hair is prone to fading • 71% of people asked were unsatisfied with market products designed for colour protection which are unable to perform as claimed2

Semi-Permanent Hair Dye Hair Cuticle

Permanent Hair Dye Hair Cuticle

Cortex

Cortex

Medulla

Medulla

Large Colour Molecule Small Colour Molecule

Large Colour Molecule Colour Precursor

Mass

Luxury

Prestige

A Unique Approach… • Substantive to the hair •

Resilient to wash-off

• Light weight without product build up • Maintains the hair’s integrity • Sustainable

Bamboo • A natural and sustainable source of silica • Macerated bamboo leaves are fermented with Lactobacillus lactis which complexes with the bio-silicate to give a slightly acidic solution containing bio-chelated silica • Improves slip, softness and aesthetic of the hair • Light weight without product build-up

Keratin • Hydrolyzed Keratin from wool* • Derived from a sustainable and natural source • Due to its molecular weight, hydrolyzed keratin does not penetrate the hair, but plates out to form a tenacious film • This film translates as increased shine and improved feel • Provides conditioning benefits *Vegan version also available

Trametes Versicolor • A type of polypore mushroom • Contains Laccase = Copper containing oxidative enzyme • Cross links free carboxylic acid groups in the hydrolyzed keratin with the amine groups present in keratin hair fibres • This enzyme found in Trametes versicolor is also capable of annealing disulphide bonds • Helps enhance hair strength

LACCASE HEAT

LACCASE HEAT

Study Protocol • Ex-vivo studies conducted on human hair tresses • Bleached blonde hair was dyed red (Redken) • Treated with a base shampoo and conditioner vs a base shampoo and conditioner + 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect • In order to simulate real life conditions the hair tresses were exposed to everyday factors such as washing, UV irradiation and heat styling • Conducted using a blind protocol in order to limit bias.

Xenon-Arc Test • Tests the light stability of products, such as pigments, dyes and inks • Best available simulation of full-spectrum sunlight • Includes ultraviolet, visible and infrared light • Full spectrum xenon arc lamps can reproduce the damaging wavelengths of light encountered either indoors or outdoors • Measured in Accelerated Fading Units (AFUs)

Ex-vivo Colour-Fastness of Dyed Hair Hours of UV Exposure (AFU) Control

0hrs

10hrs

Control

20hrs

30hrs

Control

Control

2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect 7 Wash Cycles

2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect 14 Wash Cycles

Base Shampoo & Conditioner 14 Wash Cycles

Number of Wash Cycles

Base Shampoo & Conditioner 7 Wash Cycles

Control

30hrs

2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect 14 Wash Cycles

Base Shampoo & Conditioner 14 Wash Cycles

Colour-Fade Comparison Chart to show the influence of UV exposure and number of wash cycles on hair colour-fastness. Controls of dyed hair and dyed hair washed with a base shampoo and conditioner were compared to that of dyed hair washed and treated with a base shampoo and conditioner plus 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect

• Hair which has been exposed to 30hrs AFU and 14 wash cycles with the base shampoo and conditioner has very low colour fastness • The blonde colour of the bleached hair can easily be seen where the base products have been used • Hair treated with 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect has maintained its red tones • The colour is closer to that of the original control dye

L*a*b Test • In order to substantiate these visual results further quantitative data was collected in the form of L*a*b-values • Three points per hair swatch were measured to give a mean value • This was then analysed using the L*a*b scale to determine the colour light fastness of the hair samples • L* = lightness therefore, as the L*-value increases it can be shown that the colour fastness decreases and the subsequent colour of the hair is faded

Ex-vivo Lightening of Hair Colour Ex-vivo Lightening of Hair Colour 14 Wash Cycles / 0-30hrs UV

Ex-vivo Lightening of Hair Colour 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Control

0hrs

30hrs

Hours of UV Exposure (AFU) 2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect

Base Shampoo & Conditioner

Lightening Of Colour (L*)

Lightening of Colour (L*)

7 Wash Cycles / 0 - 30hrs UV

80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Control

0hrs

30hrs

Hours of UV Exposure (AFU) 2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect

Base Shampoo & Conditioner

Lightening of hair colour expressed as (L* = Lightness) to show the influence of UV exposure and number of wash cycles on hair colour-fastness. Dyed hair washed with a base shampoo and conditioner were compared to that of dyed hair washed and treated with a base shampoo and conditioner plus 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect

Tenacity & Elasticity • A Flexabrasion method was used to evaluate the effect of AC Kerazyme® Protect on the integral structure and properties of the hair • Single fibre testing was performed via Favimat to assess the strength of the hair in terms of tenacity and elasticity • 25 hair strands from each tress were tested in order to achieve a mean result. • Tenacity gives the breaking strength of the hair where the lower strength needed indicates a weaker and more damaged fibre • The Modulus of Elasticity gives the hair’s resistance to being deformed

Ex-vivo Tenacity & Elasticity of the Hair Ex-vivo Modulus of Hair Elasticity

Ex-vivo Hair Tenacity 1.9 1.85 1.8 1.75 1.7 1.65 1.6 1.55 1.5 1.45 Dyed Untreated

Dyed Untreated + Ceramic Straightener

Dyed Treated with 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect + Ceramic Straightener

Tenacity of the hair to show the influence of washing and thermal styling

Modulus of Elasticity 0..10% (g/den)

Tenacity (g/den)

Thermal Damage

Thermal Damage

11 10.5 10 9.5 9 8.5 8 7.5 Dyed Untreated

Dyed Untreated + Ceramic Straightener

Dyed Treated with 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect + Ceramic Straightener

Elasticity of the hair to show the influence of washing and thermal styling

Summary • A sustainable and natural material • Creates a cross-linked network with the hair to provide a protective seal • This helps to inhibit the migration of molecules in and out of the hair shaft and so impede the process of dye loss • Ex-vivo studies support use of AC Kerzayme® Protect in hair care products to reduce colour fade • Simultaneously works to improve hair strength and condition

Technical Information Product Code: 16824 INCI: Hydrolyzed Keratin & Bambusa Arundinacea Leaf Extract & Trametes Versicolor Extract INCI Status: Conforms Suggested Use Levels: 1 – 10% Suggested Applications: Hair Colour Protection, Thermal Protection, Conditioning

Bibliography 1.

Cosmetic Design (2014) ‘Anti-Aging Hair Care Forum’ CosmeticDesignUSA.com [online] Available: https://vts.inxpo.com/Launch/Event.htm?ShowKey=22184 [13.11.2014]

2.

Mintel (2012) ‘Category Insights: Hair Colourants’ Mintel Reports

3.

Blyumin, y., Konig, B. & Weber, D. (2014) ‘Colour Protection for Hair Care Products’, Household and Personal Care Today, Monographic Supplement Series: Hair Care, Vol 9 (2), pp 4 – 7

4.

CTPA (2014) ‘Hair colorants and haircare’ [online] Available: http://www.thefactsabout.co.uk/hair-colorants-and-haircare/content/28 [07.01.2015]

5.

Tolchinsky, M. (2008) ‘Keeping That Colour’ Soap, Perfumery & Cosmetics, Vol 81, No 4, pp 89-91

6.

Heck, T., Faccio, G., Richter, M. & Thony-Meyer, L. (2013) ‘Enzyme-Catalyzed Protein Crosslinking’ Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology 97:461-475 [online] Available: http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs00253-012-4569-z [13.11.2014]

7.

Fairchild, M. (2005) ‘Colour Appearance Models’, John Wiley & Sons Ltd., 3rd Edition

8.

Evans, T. A. (2015) ‘Quantifying Hair Color Fading’ Cosmetics & Toiletries [online] Available: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/testing/efficacyclaims/QuantifyingHair-Color-Fading-290210041.html?sthash.HSAevCeU.mjjo [25.02.2015]

Thank you