Colour-Fade Defence: The Future of Sustainable Hair Styling Anna Crovetto, Marketing Manager Europe
Contents Hair Colour Protection A unique Approach: Kerazyme® Protect Study Protocol Efficacy Data Summary Bibliography
Hair Colour Protection • Hair is coloured for many reasons, to promote confidence, to stand out from the crowd and to follow fashions • 72% of people asked believed that hair colour improved their attractiveness, confidence and sense of well being2 • However, coloured hair is prone to fading • 71% of people asked were unsatisfied with market products designed for colour protection which are unable to perform as claimed2
Semi-Permanent Hair Dye Hair Cuticle
Permanent Hair Dye Hair Cuticle
Cortex
Cortex
Medulla
Medulla
Large Colour Molecule Small Colour Molecule
Large Colour Molecule Colour Precursor
Mass
Luxury
Prestige
A Unique Approach… • Substantive to the hair •
Resilient to wash-off
• Light weight without product build up • Maintains the hair’s integrity • Sustainable
Bamboo • A natural and sustainable source of silica • Macerated bamboo leaves are fermented with Lactobacillus lactis which complexes with the bio-silicate to give a slightly acidic solution containing bio-chelated silica • Improves slip, softness and aesthetic of the hair • Light weight without product build-up
Keratin • Hydrolyzed Keratin from wool* • Derived from a sustainable and natural source • Due to its molecular weight, hydrolyzed keratin does not penetrate the hair, but plates out to form a tenacious film • This film translates as increased shine and improved feel • Provides conditioning benefits *Vegan version also available
Trametes Versicolor • A type of polypore mushroom • Contains Laccase = Copper containing oxidative enzyme • Cross links free carboxylic acid groups in the hydrolyzed keratin with the amine groups present in keratin hair fibres • This enzyme found in Trametes versicolor is also capable of annealing disulphide bonds • Helps enhance hair strength
LACCASE HEAT
LACCASE HEAT
Study Protocol • Ex-vivo studies conducted on human hair tresses • Bleached blonde hair was dyed red (Redken) • Treated with a base shampoo and conditioner vs a base shampoo and conditioner + 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect • In order to simulate real life conditions the hair tresses were exposed to everyday factors such as washing, UV irradiation and heat styling • Conducted using a blind protocol in order to limit bias.
Xenon-Arc Test • Tests the light stability of products, such as pigments, dyes and inks • Best available simulation of full-spectrum sunlight • Includes ultraviolet, visible and infrared light • Full spectrum xenon arc lamps can reproduce the damaging wavelengths of light encountered either indoors or outdoors • Measured in Accelerated Fading Units (AFUs)
Ex-vivo Colour-Fastness of Dyed Hair Hours of UV Exposure (AFU) Control
0hrs
10hrs
Control
20hrs
30hrs
Control
Control
2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect 7 Wash Cycles
2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect 14 Wash Cycles
Base Shampoo & Conditioner 14 Wash Cycles
Number of Wash Cycles
Base Shampoo & Conditioner 7 Wash Cycles
Control
30hrs
2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect 14 Wash Cycles
Base Shampoo & Conditioner 14 Wash Cycles
Colour-Fade Comparison Chart to show the influence of UV exposure and number of wash cycles on hair colour-fastness. Controls of dyed hair and dyed hair washed with a base shampoo and conditioner were compared to that of dyed hair washed and treated with a base shampoo and conditioner plus 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect
• Hair which has been exposed to 30hrs AFU and 14 wash cycles with the base shampoo and conditioner has very low colour fastness • The blonde colour of the bleached hair can easily be seen where the base products have been used • Hair treated with 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect has maintained its red tones • The colour is closer to that of the original control dye
L*a*b Test • In order to substantiate these visual results further quantitative data was collected in the form of L*a*b-values • Three points per hair swatch were measured to give a mean value • This was then analysed using the L*a*b scale to determine the colour light fastness of the hair samples • L* = lightness therefore, as the L*-value increases it can be shown that the colour fastness decreases and the subsequent colour of the hair is faded
Ex-vivo Lightening of Hair Colour Ex-vivo Lightening of Hair Colour 14 Wash Cycles / 0-30hrs UV
Ex-vivo Lightening of Hair Colour 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Control
0hrs
30hrs
Hours of UV Exposure (AFU) 2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect
Base Shampoo & Conditioner
Lightening Of Colour (L*)
Lightening of Colour (L*)
7 Wash Cycles / 0 - 30hrs UV
80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 Control
0hrs
30hrs
Hours of UV Exposure (AFU) 2.0% AC Kerazyme® Protect
Base Shampoo & Conditioner
Lightening of hair colour expressed as (L* = Lightness) to show the influence of UV exposure and number of wash cycles on hair colour-fastness. Dyed hair washed with a base shampoo and conditioner were compared to that of dyed hair washed and treated with a base shampoo and conditioner plus 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect
Tenacity & Elasticity • A Flexabrasion method was used to evaluate the effect of AC Kerazyme® Protect on the integral structure and properties of the hair • Single fibre testing was performed via Favimat to assess the strength of the hair in terms of tenacity and elasticity • 25 hair strands from each tress were tested in order to achieve a mean result. • Tenacity gives the breaking strength of the hair where the lower strength needed indicates a weaker and more damaged fibre • The Modulus of Elasticity gives the hair’s resistance to being deformed
Ex-vivo Tenacity & Elasticity of the Hair Ex-vivo Modulus of Hair Elasticity
Ex-vivo Hair Tenacity 1.9 1.85 1.8 1.75 1.7 1.65 1.6 1.55 1.5 1.45 Dyed Untreated
Dyed Untreated + Ceramic Straightener
Dyed Treated with 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect + Ceramic Straightener
Tenacity of the hair to show the influence of washing and thermal styling
Modulus of Elasticity 0..10% (g/den)
Tenacity (g/den)
Thermal Damage
Thermal Damage
11 10.5 10 9.5 9 8.5 8 7.5 Dyed Untreated
Dyed Untreated + Ceramic Straightener
Dyed Treated with 2% AC Kerazyme® Protect + Ceramic Straightener
Elasticity of the hair to show the influence of washing and thermal styling
Summary • A sustainable and natural material • Creates a cross-linked network with the hair to provide a protective seal • This helps to inhibit the migration of molecules in and out of the hair shaft and so impede the process of dye loss • Ex-vivo studies support use of AC Kerzayme® Protect in hair care products to reduce colour fade • Simultaneously works to improve hair strength and condition
Technical Information Product Code: 16824 INCI: Hydrolyzed Keratin & Bambusa Arundinacea Leaf Extract & Trametes Versicolor Extract INCI Status: Conforms Suggested Use Levels: 1 – 10% Suggested Applications: Hair Colour Protection, Thermal Protection, Conditioning
Bibliography 1.
Cosmetic Design (2014) ‘Anti-Aging Hair Care Forum’ CosmeticDesignUSA.com [online] Available: https://vts.inxpo.com/Launch/Event.htm?ShowKey=22184 [13.11.2014]
2.
Mintel (2012) ‘Category Insights: Hair Colourants’ Mintel Reports
3.
Blyumin, y., Konig, B. & Weber, D. (2014) ‘Colour Protection for Hair Care Products’, Household and Personal Care Today, Monographic Supplement Series: Hair Care, Vol 9 (2), pp 4 – 7
4.
CTPA (2014) ‘Hair colorants and haircare’ [online] Available: http://www.thefactsabout.co.uk/hair-colorants-and-haircare/content/28 [07.01.2015]
5.
Tolchinsky, M. (2008) ‘Keeping That Colour’ Soap, Perfumery & Cosmetics, Vol 81, No 4, pp 89-91
6.
Heck, T., Faccio, G., Richter, M. & Thony-Meyer, L. (2013) ‘Enzyme-Catalyzed Protein Crosslinking’ Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology 97:461-475 [online] Available: http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs00253-012-4569-z [13.11.2014]
7.
Fairchild, M. (2005) ‘Colour Appearance Models’, John Wiley & Sons Ltd., 3rd Edition
8.
Evans, T. A. (2015) ‘Quantifying Hair Color Fading’ Cosmetics & Toiletries [online] Available: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/testing/efficacyclaims/QuantifyingHair-Color-Fading-290210041.html?sthash.HSAevCeU.mjjo [25.02.2015]
Thank you