CMT Router Table with Large Insert Practical suggestions for safe working on CMT’s Industrio™ router table

Source by www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt

C.M.T. UTENSILI S.p.A. Via della meccanica 61122 Pesaro - Fraz. chiusa di Ginestreto- Italy Tel. #39 0721 48571 Fax. #39 0721 481021 e-mail [email protected] www.cmtutensili.com

Last week, I posted this picture with the announcement that Beth and I would be starting a new project — an “Insert Plate Garage.’

This is what started the idea some months ago. Marc Sommerfeld sent me a new product, the new Pocket-Pro Joinery System developed by Marc and CMT (photo is from CMT's website.) I have used it on a number of projects but simply clamped the base to a worktable. But this picture intrigued me. Since these insert plates are so well made and fit so exactly, I asked myself the question: "What other shop tasks could use this concept?"

I shared my thoughts with Beth. It didn't take long to look at how we use the router table — I came up with a practical need for 5 insert plates. And, if I need this many plates, I also need a garage for them — one that would keep the tools safe and sound.

Beth starts by measuring the tools that we will mount on insert plates. You can see the CMT/Sommerfeld Raised Panel Set in the center of the picture. I am planning the "garage" around that product and the tasks of making raised panel doors. I want to include the following insert plates: 1) large router with speed control for the large raised panel bit; 2 and 3) 2 smaller routers for the rail and stile bits; 4) the Porter Cable Portable Oscillating Spindle Sander (already mounted at the right) and 5) the CMT/Sommerfeld Pocket-Pro Joinery set, far right.

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This Porter Cable plunge router model (PC 8529) is a recent addition to their lineup and sports a 2hp motor and has variable speed and a soft start. In the back ground you can see that I have one unit already mounted in the insert. It has the same hole sizing as the PC690 which makes it easy to change models.

This is the Porter Cable Portable Oscillating Spindle Sander which I mounted during the week. I used 1/2” Finnform which is absolutely great for this use. I used a number of router “copying techniques” to make this insert. I did photograph most of the steps, so here they are.

I have cut a piece of Finnform (see source below) on the table saw using another insert to set the fence distances exactly to the insert dimensions. Using an 80 tooth cabinet blade gave me a very smooth edge. I am trying to figure out where the sander would be located on the plate. Since the sander is long, I decided to place the hole offset so that the unit will “fit.” The number “1” is at the Porter Cable accessory that I am using to mark the hole position. I could also use the base (“2”) which I have removed. I thought I would be leaving the base off, but I see that it is an integral part of the unit’s dust collection system and belongs on. I have used some double face tape to fix the base adapter to the Finnform and am now drilling the holes that will hold the router.

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Well, I got wrapped up with what I was doing and did not photograph some small tasks in between. What I did was use the holes to attach the black adapter to the base and then used the router with a pattern bit to follow the plastic adapter. It took only a few minutes to make an exact copy of the hole. I also used one of the other plates and the pattern bit to rout the corners exactly. I am holding the final product — it is perfect. But, I will admit, the other plate on the bench is the earlier attempt. I countersunk the holes on the wrong side — I don’t want you to think that I don’t make mistakes.

Beth was admiring the “perfect” fit and then she tried to place it in the top. It fit perfectly, but there is not enough room under the top for the sander. I will either have to remount the sander or remove the small cabinet inserts underneath the top.

This is what it looks like. I had built these storage areas to fit the Hitachi M12V exactly. Since they are installed with pocket hole screws, I should be able to remove them and trim them down to allow the new equipment to fit.

Between the two of us, the measurements have been checked and rechecked a number of times. We want the sides and back to have grooves cut in them to the depth of 3/8”.

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I want the insert plates to have only 1/8” play so that they can slide in and out easily but no more. I do not want the equipment to be able to fall out of the slots. To be certain of our “math”, I have used a scrap piece to cut to the lengths. I have also cut some grooves with the router set at exactly 3/8” depth. Beth slides one of the plates in a groove and checks the fit. It is fine. I was going to use lock miter joints but opted instead to butt the back into the sides and use the Pocket-Pro to give me a number of screw locations. They will be from the back and therefore not seen. Time to cut the panel.

I bought a fresh sheet of birch ply and have laid it out on my work table. With the two sides and back all being the same length, Beth starts by putting the Festool guide rail in position for the crosscut.

She has set the saw’s plunge depth to be about 1/4” deeper than the plywood. If you recall, the work table is made up of a sheet of A/D plywood topped with a 1” thick piece of foam. The extra depth of cut then only cuts into the foam. It is a great system for handling these large panels. With the Festool saw cutting exactly to the guide rail edge, it makes for extremely accurate cuts.

To setup the guide rail for the cutting of the sides, Beth uses one of the “sample” side pieces for length and uses a 1/8” brass spacer to set the guide and allow for the blade width.

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She makes the cut. She makes all three cuts using this setup.

Beth is setting up the edge bander and will apply the veneer edging to the front edges of the side pieces. Can you guess why we do that now?

Here is part of the answer. Beth is clamping the three pieces together . The arrow points to the boards that have iron-on veneer. She is attaching a clamp guide that will position the router for making the 3/8” deep dados. I am hoping that by clamping the veneered edges like this, that veneer chip out will be nil — I hope.

Beth has installed a 3/4” mortising bit. This bit is similar to a straight bit except that the bottom of the cutters are straight across. This gives a groove with a very flat bottom. She has plunged the bit to just “kiss” the ply and then is using a 3/8” brass spacer to set the plunge stop. The router’s plunge scale is easy to use and is accurate, but I like to use these spacers when I can.

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Beth makes the groove in two passes plunging a bit at a time. By the way, the Bessey K-body clamp is used to hold the three pieces tightly together. She will move the guide rail clamp for each of the grooves. The K-bodies assure her that there is no board shifting when she repositions the guide rail. Next week, we will have this finished and will try all the tools in their slots. We will also add a French cleat on the back so that we can hang the garage. And, we can start using it.... yeah!

While Beth was away, I worked on the grooving. I wanted each groove to be 2” away from the last. There must be a clever math way to do it, but I couldn’t figure it out, so I simply marked a 2” point.

The jig is made of one piece that fits into the groove and the top piece which is ripped to the 2-inch marks I just made. Not “rocket-science” but it worked.

So with the “jig” in the last groove I cut, I move the guide clamp up until it firmly touches the jig and clamp it in place.

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I remove the jig and route a new groove with the router base against the clamp guide.

Well the grooving is going well but oh so slow. The mortising bit can overheat easily, so I am making each groove in several shallow passes. One of the problems with using mortising or straight bits is that when you take the cut in steps, it is only the bottom tip that does all the work.

I finally wised up and installed an up-spiral 1/2” diameter bit in a second router. I will make the first cut with it and follow with the 3/4” mortising bit. The up-spiral is only 1/2” — I don’t have any larger. But it still worked fine. I was able to make one pass with the spiral at full 3/8” depth and follow with the 3/4” mortising bit at full depth. Both bits worked without any strain and the final groove was smooth with very little “fuzzing.”

Even with the vacuum attached to the 2nd router, there was a lot of sawdust to suck up.

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Beth is back and inspecting my progress.

Do you remember that we used iron-on edge banding before the grooving. This is why. We clamped the edges together, and they served as perfect “backups” to each other — and there is literally zero tearout at the notches. A little hand sanding is all that is needed. If we had not done this, the edging would be torn up in many places.

Beth runs a block plane over the edges to make them “picture perfect.”

The garage isn’t done but we can already start to use the CMT table insert concept. Beth places the CMT Pocket-Pro into place.

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We are using pocket screw joinery so Beth places the back on the jig. The board is large and flexible right now, but the table handles it perfectly.

Beth drills holes every 8 inches or so — she just makes sure that the hole is positioned where there is wood, not a groove..

When she starts to assemble the unit, she uses a scrap piece of plywood to make sure that the grooves are aligned before screwing the assembly in place.

Once both ends are aligned and clamped, Beth loosens one end and moves the back away just enough to apply some glue.

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She has glued the other end, then repositioned the back and is now driving screws home. The pocket screws are 1 1/4” coarse thread and pull each section together for some nice glue squeeze out.

With the one side fastened to the back, she applies glue to the other side. Note, that it is resting on the black right angle guides that she has clamped in place to help her position the side.

With the side in position, she can start driving the pocket screws in place.

With the three sides assembled, Beth has carefully measured and cut two pieces that will be glued and screwed at the top and bottom.

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She goes back to the Pocket-Pro and drills some holes for attaching these pieces.

With the top in place, she has added a piece of edge banding and is now sanding the edges. There will be a top to cover these pocket holes and on the bottom, they will be down and resting on the base.

Beth has cut a scrap piece of plywood to about 1 1/2” wider than the case and is installing 4” casters. You can see that she has rounded the corners, run the slotting bit and has added the black plastic “bumper.” She is using machine screws which, when tightened, are pulled into the top — just enough to be flat against the base. The machine screws were 1/2” too long, and she cut off the excess with a hacksaw. Now the casters swivel freely.

She positions it on the case and will attach with some wood screws.

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It is looking good. We have to mount two more routers and then we can figure out the real position of each unit. For sure, we will want the heavier units at the bottom. I think we will also have space for a sliding drawer or two. Also, we will create a simple way to manage the power cords so they don’t hang down and get combobbled* with the other cords.. It will be fun to have it finished and ready for testing — a cabinet door project, maybe. For sure, this unit is built to be used. * combobbled - I know, my spell check didn’t have it either, but it is very descriptive, isn’t it?

During the week, I worked a bit on the garage. Here I am cutting Baltic birch with a green phenolic covering. If you recall, I have been using “Finnform” a similar product but red covered, from Woodpeckers. This material is green and is carried at Woodcraft. I am cutting it to the exact dimensions of the CMT insert (arrow.) I will cut two.

I have made a sandwich of the CMT insert and the two pieces I just cut. I have them clamped together which is fine for the work at the drill press. Here, I am drilling a small hole through the leveler positions.

The arrow shows the one bolt I have threaded through the entire stack. I am cutting threads in the hole at the other end for another bolt.

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I am installing a 2” high 1/2” diameter pattern bearing bit. The router is a mid-range one (2hp Porter Cable 7529.) It has a shaft lock so using a single wrench works well.

Making the duplicates couldn’t be easier. The bearing guides on the top plate and cuts the other two plates to the exact same shape — corners and all.

I have centered the router’s base plate on the sandwich and am back at the drill press to drill the three holes that fix the router to the plate.

This is the final insert plate for the small routers. I am using the PorterCable 690LRVS. I have had my regular 690s for years. But they run at 22,000 rpm — just too fast for the rail and stile bits that are about 1 7/8” in diameter. According to the CMT guide, the speed for that size bit should be 18,000rpm. The new model has speed adjustments of 10,000 to 27,500. You can see that I drilled a different hole size than the CMT plate. I decided to use a 2” Forstner and make the holes that size. For my use here, that is a good size hole and doesn’t need any adapters.

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Beth is here and starts a new task. She will be the first to use the insert garage by making a two panel door for the unit. I have some padauk and figured maple which we will use for the doors. Beth starts by setting up roller stands at both the in and outfeed sides of the Delta 13” planer.

I will have to get some good hose clamps. In the meantime, Beth connects the dust collection hose to the dust port of the planer.

She tightens the clamp on the portable dust collector.

She turns the planer on and adjusts the speed to the finishing speed. This is the slower speed, but it should be better for running the figured maple through it.

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Beth uses a small caliper to measure the board thickness. The arrow points to the machine’s height window. We have no experience to know how accurate the machine gauge is so we will use the hand calipers this time. Beth measures about 1 1/16”, and she wants to end up with a thickness of 3/4” exactly.

She feeds the board into the planner. We have run several boards through the planer with this setup and have experienced no snipe.

It didn’t take all that much time for Beth to get to the final thickness of 3/4”. That is exactly what she now reads.

At the table saw, Beth has installed a CMT rip blade and set the GripTite fence in place. With these magnetic hold downs set so that they just “kiss” the boards, she can feed the board through the saw blade and have no kickback. She is cutting new edges on the board.

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She cuts the boards in thirds at the CMS.

She measures the three boards as they would be in a single panel. The width is just right and the fit of the boards is excellent — no further jointing is necessary.

She applies glue to the maple edges. The arrow is directed at the maple board I had glued up earlier. These maple pieces will be the raised panels for our doors.

Beth lightly taps the rubber mallet to even up the boards as she applies a little pressure to the clamps. After this coaxing, the panel is real smooth.

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With her glue-up in the clamps and drying, she turns to the panel that was clamped up the day before. She uses a paint scraper to remove a small amount of glue squeeze-out.

Beth uses the Festool Rotex 150 sander/polisher to sand the glued up panels. While every effort was made to glue the boards evenly, there is always a minor bit of sanding required. Beth is using 80 grit sandpaper and has switched the unit to a more aggressive sanding action. It doesn’t take long in this mode to smooth out any unevenness.

With the panel evened out, she changes the sander’s action to random orbital.

With the sander in the random orbital mode, Beth can sand the entire surface to get any swirls out. In this mode, the sander is easy to operate — it almost glides across the surface.

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With the panel done, Beth checks the program that I used to create dimensions for all the components of the doors. I used Raised Panel Doors, Ver. 5. It has never let me down. She has a printout that will allow her to cut all the elements to the right size. Their website is listed below.

In preparation for crosscutting the rails and stiles, Beth is installing a CMT 80 tooth cabinet maker’s blade — it gives the smoothest crosscuts in the shop.

Beth has placed the Incra 5000 cross cut sled in place on the table saw and is checking for alignment.

She has set the Incra Stop to the exact measurement of the rails. With this set, it is easy for her to cut the four pieces. The rails and stiles will be made of padauk lumber. I very carefully, planed the board and cut the widths in preparation for Beth’s visit.

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She makes one last check of the measurements.

At the garage, Beth looks over the CMT/Sommerfeld Ogee Cabinet Making Set. This is a great set that I have used over the past few years. The raised panel cutter has a back cutter so that you cut the panel with the precise edge to fit the groove of the rail and stile.

She slides out the insert with the coping bit.

This is where we quit for the day. Next week we will show the Insert Garage in full swing.

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Well, a new week for work on the “Garage.” It is time to select routers. The arrow points to one of my PC690’s. It has been a favorite workhorse for years. Unfortunately, at a fixed speed of 22,000 rpm, I couldn’t use it with many of the router bits that I used. I asked the good people at Porter Cable to suggest models that would work. They did better than that. They sent me three routers that they felt would be right for the Garage concept.

The one on the left, is a new variable speed model of the 690. It is the PC690LRVS. It has 1 3/4hp motor with soft start and variable speed. The middle one is the PC7529. It is a plunge router with 2hp and variable speed and soft start. The third router is heavy and heavy duty. It is the PC 7539 — a plunge router with 3 1/4hp and five speed and soft start. Beth and I will try to give each of these a fair trial. Without a doubt, the variable speed 690 should work well for the rail and stile bits.

The two rail and stile bits are just under 2” each so the recommended speed is 18,000 rpm. (CMT’s speed chart)

We will be using one of the “green” inserts which we made with 2” holes. The bit will fit exactly and no additional adapter plate will be necessary.

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I usually put a 1/2” diameter O-ring in the bottom of the collet. Marc Sommerfeld tells me that he now uses one of the CMT Panalign Strips. Beth has done that here. The lower arrow shows one of these strips. The arrow at the left is a strip folded over and stuffed into the base of the collet. Whether you use a strip or an O-ring, the key thing is not to install a bit “bottomed out.”

It is easiest to change bits in this router with the motor removed. Also, note that Beth has positioned the two wrenches so that she can grip them with one hand and use a scissors type of tightening action. This method can prevent a lot of bruised knuckles.

Still out of the table, Beth can adjust the height of the coping bit so that the “lip” is about 1/8” high. She uses a Formica chip to help her set this height. One chip is about 1/16” so she guessimates twice that. This setting doesn’t have to be exact, but it is the measurement from which all other cuts must match.

Beth also adjusts the speed dial to the three position.

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Have you ever had thoughts about what would happen if you accidentally plugged an “ON” router into a live outlet? Scary. I found a short extension cord with a neon installed in the outlet. The arrow shows it on. If it is on, it has power to it and I do not want to plug the router in.

Beth checks and adjusts the level of the plate.

Beth uses the adjustable square to align the fence with the bit’s bearing

She has adjusted both fences to give her about 1/8” clearance on both sides. As a last minute check, Beth rotates the bit manually to ensure that it clears the fence.

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Using a push pad, Beth routes a sample.

Remember the 1/8” lip she wanted and set the router for? Here is that lip. It is very important to have that.

It took Beth less than 3 minutes to make the cuts in all eight ends of the rails.

Before she changes routers or bits, Beth uses this handy gauge to measure the router bit’s height. She is measuring the top of the post. While “matched sets” usually allow us to measure heights from the bottom, I assume we can also measure from the top.

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Beth puts back the router with the cope bit (1) and takes out the router with the matched profiling bit (2). What could be easier.

For this first time, she carefully adjusts the router height to the height gauge she set from the profile router.

And, once again she sets the fence to the bits bearing. She could have put stops in place for setting the fence, but this way seems easy enough.

To run the rails, she presses the coped end into the push block which she has cut the profile in. It holds exactly and minimizes tearout of the coped end. This is a real neat trick we learned from Marc Sommerfeld.

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With the push pad and rail together, Beth can make the profile cut of the rail.

Running the longer stiles is easy. She just uses her left hand and a safety push pad to hold the piece down and against the fence and her right hand with a Stots push shoe to move the piece safely through the cutter.

Beth does a quick test of a corner. It is perfect.

The next step is to cut the panels. The software program gave us the exact measurements, but Beth still double checks the numbers. The frame is dry fit and the measurements are easily made — from “lip” to lip. This is the same measurement that you would have if you were measuring inside the groove. She will subtract 1/4” from the measurement to have room for the Panalign Strips.

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Beth carefully cuts the panel using the Incra 5000. You can see at the right, she is using the Incra Stop which she has set for the exact length she needs.

This time, Beth takes the midsize router from the garage. It is the PorterCable 7529 — a 2 hp plunge router. In the past, I have used only the Hitachi M12V which boasted a 3 1/2 hp motor. It will be interesting to see first hand what this 2 hp unit will do, and if it is up to the panel raising task.

This router is unique since it has available a height adjustment knob (arrow.) Unfortunately this adjusts the plunger’s depth mechanism. This works quite well when using it manually, but in the table, you have to plunge to the new setting. Beth and I both found it difficult to apply plunging pressure without pushing the insert plate out. However, once this height is set, it can be locked and left in — if 2 horse power is enough.

Beth is routing the raised panel in four increments to minimize the amount of work required from this router. Staging the cut in that way, she was able to make the sequence of cuts without exertion of the router. We tried to make the cut in two moves as we would normally do, and the router bogged down. This is maple which is moderately hard. In red oak or ash, it would be much less forgiving.

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Beth examines the cut very closely. The final pass cleaned up the cut and the panel looks very good.

Beth tries the new panel in the frame.

It is still just dry fit, but she can’t resist looking at it in place on the garage. It will look great with an oil finish. A number of friends have asked if it makes sense to spend so much money for figured maple and padauk for “shop cabinets.” I think so. For one, it gives Beth and me some serious sampling of our craft. Secondly, we spend a lot of time in the shop so why shouldn’t it be the best that we can make it. Next week, we will try that big router of Porter Cable’s. I am hoping that the addition of a RouterRaizer will allow it to be “tamed” for router table use. In any case, we will be finished with the garage and on to some new project(s).

The starting point this week is the mounting of this large PorterCable Router. It is the PC 7539 — a plunge router with 3 1/4hp and five speed and soft start. I know that it will only work in the table if I add a RouterRaiser lift mechanism to it. The RouterRaizer’s instructions include this model in its specification sheet, so that is what I will do.

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I have installed the RouterRaizer a number of times, but all to the Hitachi M12V so I want to take my time and follow each step of the instructions exactly.

The first step is to remove the plunge lock handle.

And then remove the bolt that is holding the spring. This spring puts tension on the lock lever so that it is normally closed. With the RouterRaizer, we want it to be held open or at least not spring closed. The kit comes with a replacement spring to be put in the original spring’s place (inset).

The replacement spring is in place and I am ready to reinsert the plunge lock bolt. This is a reverse threaded bolt, and you do not want to tighten it too much — your plunge will always be locked. So, tighten it until the plunge is locked and then back the bolt out about 1/4 turn.

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Next, With the router partially plunged and locked, I remove the plunge guide.

Next, I release the plunge lock and pull the router body straight up — the plunge springs are released from the plunge columns. This step was easy — getting them back in will be the challenge.

On the template page for this router, there is a small outline which I am cutting to size.

The tiny template fits the curved housing exactly. I am to drill a 1/2” hole at the mark. Using a 1/8” drill to start makes the drilling more accurate.

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I temporarily place the unit back on its base so I can hold the assembly level at the drill press. Drilling the hole is easy.

The RouterRaizer instructions include a page with all the parts shown in actual size. What I have done is to place each part on its picture so that when it comes time to install that part, there is no mix-up. If it seems like there are a lot of parts, it is due to the fact that this one kit can work on many different models. Some parts will not be used in this installation. There are quite a few small tools that are needed for the install. If you look closely, some “tools” are sprayed a color. That, too, is for mounting on a variety of routers. This is a well thought out kit — all you have to do is take one step at a time.

There are a few steps that can seem complicated. I showed above how they make it simple to locate the correct part. The illustration at the left is one of many figures that illustrate specific assemblies. By the way, if you have been tempted to add a RouterRaizer to your router, you can read all the instructions on their website. They are in PDF format and are exactly the same as what comes with the kit. (there is a link at the end of this story.)

Per the instructions, I have started the assembly of the mainshaft.

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The next step is to remove the sub-base.

Next, I have to remove one of the two plunge posts. It is held in by a short pin. The instructions say to use a hammer to pound it out of there, and that is what I did — scary at first and then it started to move.

I have reinserted the post and am drilling for insertion of two new pins. The arrow points to one of those freebie drill size gauges I keep getting from one of the subscription services. I hate to admit it, but it is useful at times.

With a hammer and a tool supplied in the kit, I am able to put the shaft back with two pins that also come with the kit.

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I am preparing to put the plunge body back together. I have placed the springs in the columns. The left spring uses the black plastic rod that was in there originally (arrow). On the nearer spring, I am inserting the brass guide that is part of the kit. The next step is to squeeze these two springs and get the motor unit back on the columns. It takes two extra hands — in my case, Sal, who was shooting pictures is now helping me put the two units together — and therefore no picture.

I am preparing to put the plunge body back together. I have placed the springs in the columns. The left spring uses the black plastic rod that was in there originally (arrow). On the nearer spring, I am inserting the brass guide that is part of the kit. The next step is to squeeze these two springs and get the motor unit back on the columns. It takes two extra hands — in my case, Sal, who was shooting pictures is now helping me put the two units together — and therefore no picture.

I tried to cut the screw holes with a sharp knife, but it wasn’t working. Here is what I did successfully. I put the gasket material between two blocks of wood. I placed the template on top then I could drill the four holes and hopefully have nice holes for the screws.

It worked. Now I have to cut the two large holes so that the gasket is the shape of the router’s base.

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My next task is to drill the holes for attaching the insert plate to the router. I want the plunge lock lever facing front, and I want the RouterRaizer crank forward of the fence. With these two criteria met, I am lucky to be able to orient the plate that way.

I use the router’s base plate to center the unit at the hole.

Having taped the base plate in position, I drill a screw hole slightly larger than the one in the base plate.

I then carefully drill a countersink hole just deep enough to hide the heads of the 5/16” bolts.

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I have placed the gasket material in the sandwich of router and insert plate.

I keep a Japanese kitchen knife in my toolbox for cutting thick foam and insulation bats, and it seem perfect for this task. I am trimming the inner circle of the gasket material right flush with the inner router casting. This difficult to cut material is trimmed easily this way.

Finally, on the outside circumference, I use the utility knife and many cuts — eventually the material gave up.

A day passes and Beth is here to continue working on the panel door. She gives the panel a final sanding before shaping the edges.

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She brings the new router insert from the “garage.”

And places it into the router table’s opening. I have previously set the bit height based on the door we did last week.

The CMT fence can be used with inserts or by just sliding the individual fences. Since this bit will be used often and the shape lends itself to making a special fence insert, Beth sketches around the shape of the bit.

She has used a saber saw to shape the profile and now manually rotates the bit to ensure that there is sufficient clearance. It is fine, and she is ready to shape the raised panel.

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Beth has set the fence so that on this first cut only a small portion of the back cutter is exposed. It is about the half-way point of this bit.

For the second and final cut, Beth adjusts the fence so that it is aligned with the bearing. After making this adjustment, she checks again to see that the bit can make one full revolution without hitting the fence insert.

She makes the final cut. She always starts with an end grain and then rotates to the side and so on. This way, any splintering of the end grain will be removed in the side cut. She also makes a second pass on the final cut just to smooth out and “polish” the final cut.

Beth inspects the cut, and it is perfect. Clearly the 3 1/2hp Porter Cable router is the right one for this large bit.

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In preparation for clamping, Beth sets the K-body clamps into the K-body blocks.

The blocks have shallow and deep slots. This allows one clamp to be put in going one direction and the second clamp to be held over the first and in the other direction. They are meant for this operation of rail and stile door assembly. What is really nice, is that once setup, the clamps don’t flop over but stay upright and ready.

Beth spreads yellow carpenter’s glue over the rail’s end. There is a lot of good gluing surface in this joint, so she wants to brush the glue in and make full use of it. There will be no metal fasteners used here.

Beth inserts one Panalign Strip into the end rail and two in each side stile. These will be compressed by the raised panel and allow some seasonal shifting without forcing the frame. If you recall, she allowed for 1/4” in both directions for these flexible strips.

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She clamps the assembly. The clamps going the long direction are tightened just enough so that the rail/stile corners are flush. The shorter clamps are tightened just enough to bring the joint together. It is a nice system. This is almost the last of the work on the insert garage. Next week, we will hang the doors and put some coats of clear gloss on both the doors and the garage itself. It will give Beth a chance to use some HVLP equipment — one that we have never used.

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