CLEANSING HANDBOOK edition

CLEANSING HANDBOOK 2014 edition 1 NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD . 1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: [email protected] ...
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CLEANSING HANDBOOK 2014 edition 1

NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD

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1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: [email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp

Cleansing Types

OIL TYPE

WATERY TYPE

“Like dissolves like” concept allows oil cleansers to remove make-up or waterresistant sunscreen most effectively. Emulsifiers dissolved in oil allow easy rinsing with water. Ideal for heavy make-up users.

Cleansing waters are surfactants dissolved in a water base and are used together with a cotton pad to remove surface dirt. Suitable for skin who are easily irritated with frequent washing.

FOAM TYPE

MILK / BALM TYPE

Speedy & efficient cleansing is the main benefit of rinse-off foam cleansers. Newer formulations use surfactants that are less stripping, allow mildlyacidic formulations with a rich foam & leave a refreshing after-rinse feel.

The higher content of oils in milky formulations are suited for extremely dry skin. To be massaged gently with fingers, it dissolves make-up and dirt and can be removed by water or by tissue.

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Concept 1 Oil Cleansing

Formulating cleansing oils is achieving a good balance of cleansing oils held by lipophilic surfactants. Recent innovations in this category (also called “bicontinuous” formulations) allow the addition of water & humectants to make it easily rinsable and leaves a non-sticky, softened skin feel.

Request your samples on this site. Type the words “chemical-navi", click on english site!

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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD

1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: [email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp

Esters for Cleansing Oils Our special esters for formulating mild and effective cleansing oils with nice feel.

DS-1220 INCI: Dibutyloctyl Sebacate This ester shows superior make up removing properties. It easily dissolves and disperses poorly soluble substances. DS-1220 provides elegant non-greasy feel after cleansing. Clear & odorless.

Trade Name

Cleansing effect on lipstick. Left: cleansing cream with DS-1220. Right: control.

Absorbency index

DS-1220

0.1397

NIKKOL Trifat S-308

0.1264

NIKKOL CIO

0.1178

Mineral oil

0.1080

Trifat S-308 INCI: Triethylhexanoin

CIO INCI: Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

GS-MHL INCI: Methyheptyl Laurate

A higher absorbency value means there is more of the make-up eluting into the solution which means a higher cleansing effect. (Evaluated at a wavelength of 580nm) Test method: a commercially-available lipstick was applied evenly to a cotton pad (1.5 x 3cm) and allowed to sit for 20 minutes. The pad was placed in a bottle containing the sample cleansing oil. Using a shaker, the bottle was shaken for 20 minutes at 30C.

Clear and odorless emollient and texture enhancing triglyceride ester oil. Excellent cleansing and pigment dispersing effect.

Colorless ester with remarkably light feel. Superior stability, low irritation and emollient effect.

Ultra-light plant-derived cleansing ester manufactured with minimum waste (e-factor of 0.02)*. Ideal for formulators searching for D5 replacement for cleansing

Before Cleansing

1 Cleansing with GS-MHL

2

3

Legend: 1= Powder foundation 2= Cream foundation 3= Water-proof mascara

The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means. 4

NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD

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1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: [email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp

Emulsifiers for Cleansing Oils Self-emulsifying surfactant to allow base oils to interact with water for easy rinsability.

GO-430 NV INCI NAME

Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate

APPEARANCE

Light yellow liquid

HLB

11.5

CAS NO.

63089-86-1

SPECIAL FEATURES/ MAIN USES

Hydrophilic emulsifier for a wide range of substances; suitable for nonpolar base oils such as mineral oil, plant derived

GO-430NV

Formulation 1: Self- emulsifying Cleansing Oil This is a traditional anhydrous (water-free) cleansing oil formulation with GO-430NV as the main emulsifier. The base oil (mineral oil) can be replaced with light-feel sustainable Sugar Squalane (see below) or any vegetable oil for a more natural formulation. INCI/Trade Name

A

wt%

Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate

NIKKOL GO-430NV

Sorbitan Sesquioleate

NIKKOL SO-15V

Triethylhexanoin

NIKKOL Trifat S-308

20.0

Dibutyloctyl Sebacate

DS-1220

20.0

Mineral oil

11.0 4.0

-

45.0

Procedure: Mix well at room temperature.

Green Formulations with Sugar Squalane Squalane is a choice emollient for its high skin absorption & softening effect on skin. Sugar Squalane is made from sugarcane grown through traceable and sustainable techniques in Brazil. Compared to olive squalane, this does not compete with food consumption thus making supply & pricing stable. Spreadabilty

2

Moist feel Tackiness

1 0 ‐1 ‐2

Sensory evaluation of Different Types of Squalane

Skin absorption

Shark‐derived Squalane Oily after feel

Olive‐derived Squalane NIKKOL Sugar Squalane

The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.

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Emulsifiers for Cleansing Oils Plant-derived self-emulsifying non-ionic surfactant with superior cleansing properties.

TGI-20 INCI Name:PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate.

Evaluation of Cleansing Oils’ Efficacy of Water-Proof Makeup Removal

Trade Name (INCI)

Tested samples 1. Water (control) 2. Commercial Cleansing Oil (Japan) 3. Cleansing Oil with TGI-20 Method: Lipstick (commercial water-proof lipstick) and mascara (commercial, waterproof) were applied to test sites on the inner forearm. Each test site is massaged 10 times and then rinsed. Cleansing effect is measured by visual observation.

NIKKOL TGI-20 (PEG-20 Glyceryl Trisostearate)

15.0

NIKKOL IOP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate)

10.0

NIKKOL CIO (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate)

10.0

Mineral oil

64.6

Phenoxyethanol

0.4

Procedure: mix till uniform with paddle mixer

Cleansing Effect on Water-proof Mascara 1

2

wt%

3

Cleansing Power

Cleansing Effect on Water-proof Lipstick 1

2

3

Cleansing Power

1. Water (control) 2. Commercial Cleansing Oil (Japan) 3. Cleansing Oil with TGI-20

The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.

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Innovative Cleansing Oil What are Bicontinuous Cleansing Formulations? Before Removing of Waterproof Mascara

Conventional Cleansing Oil

Bicontinuous Cleansing Oil

Dry Hands

Wet Hands

Japan is known for its rich tradition of bathing. This tradition extends to nightly bathing rituals in the household. Skincare manufacturers such as Kao or Shiseido employ their knowledge on colloid science to provide cleansing oils that can be used in the bath allows women to save time. Moreover, Japanese cleansing oils have evolved to be less feeling like oil but more like water. 7

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Conventional Type I. The challenges of a conventional formulation Hydrophilic SAA

Hydrophobic SAA

Oil Conventional Type Small / Large amount of water

Water

O/W emulsion

Cleansing Oil

Conventional Type: These type of cleansers emulsify immediately with the presence of water even at small amounts. This leads to reduced cleansing power & low rinsability of the formulation.

Oil + Surfactant

1

Loss of Cleansing Power

2

Low Rinsability

Makeup/ dirt

Skin Surface

removal

1. With wet hands, oil droplets will be created (emulsification) but water obstructs the suspended droplets from adhering to makeup

Skin Surface

2. Water will also increase the particle size of these oil droplets leaving a sticky feeling on skin.

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Bicontinuous Type II. The merits of a bicontinuous formulation Hydrophilic SAA

Hydrophobic SAA

Oil Oil

Water

Water

Cleansing Oil

Bicontinuous Phase

O/W emulsion

Bicontinuous formulation is when an amphiphilic blend of surfactants allows to balance equal volumes of oil & water and exist freely in the continuous phase.

Bicontinuous Blend

1

Slower emulsification

2

Rinsable Microemulsion

Makeup/ dirt

dissolution

1. The bicontinuous channels of water and oil allow interaction without water without immediate emulsification.

2. With addition of more water, size of oil droplets are reduced and stabilized into “micelles” preventing re-adhesion and allows easy rinsing.

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Cleansing Oil Premixes Premixes that form a bi-continuous phase Cleomix DX

INCI Name:PEG-10 Laurate, Sorbitan Oleate, Decyl Glucoside, Alcohol, Water

This is a blend of plant-derived, low irritation ingredients suited for formulations aiming for sensitive skin. This blend creates a bicontinuous structures with a wide variety of oils of different polarities. This can be thicken into milks or balms that can be washed easily into a micro-emulsion Presence of bicontinuous channel:

Regular oil emulsifies.

Cleomix DX oil forms visible bi-continuous phase (oil and water repel each other).

The behavior in contact with water of cleansing oil made with Cleomix DX and regular (not “wet hand” type) cleansing oil was compared. One drop of each oils was dropped in beakers filled with water.

Cleansing Effect of Cleomix DX vs. Commercial Cleansing Oils

This Sugar Squalane-rich bicontinuous cleansing oil cleanses skin effectively while also leaving it softened & moisturised. Formula: Cleomix Oil A Before

Mascara

Market

product A

Market product B

Cleomix Oil A

Trade Name NIKKOL CLEOMIX DX

25.0

NIKKOL CIO (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate)

5.0

NIKKOL IOP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate)

35.0

NIKKOL Natural Oils 1

3.0

Cyclomethicone

15.0

NIKKOL Sugar Squalane

Foundation

Lipstick

Wt%

To 100.0

Fragrance

q.s.

Preservative

q.s.

Water

2.5

・Mix A well. Add B while stirring A. ・Stop stirring when mixture becomes transparent. 10

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Cleansing Oil Premixes Premixes that form a bicontinuous phase

Nikkomix CW

INCI Name:PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate

This is a blend of plant-derived non-ionic surfactants that create a bicontinuous channel allowing make-up removal in the shower or in the bath. This is an economical alternative for those who require speedy formulation development time. Removal Effect on Waterproof Mascara Before Cleansing

Dry Hands

Commercial Commercial bicontinuous formula oil-based formula

Nikkomix CW Powerful make-up removal effect in any condition!

Wet Hands

Simple Modification of Formulation using Nikkomix CW Nikkomix CW is a ready-to-use blend where you just add selected polyols & cleansing esters then dilute with water! Elaborate modification is not necessary. Trade Name/ INCI

Wt%

Nikkomix CW

33.00

This ratio of N-CW is necessary for transparency

Butylene Glycol

20.00

PG or DPG can be substituted using the same ratio. Or a 50:50 mix of BG or propanediol

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

20.00

Water Preservative

to 100.00 q.s.

Straight chain ester oils can be substituted (e.g. ethylhexyl palmitate or decyl oleate). 10% Mineral Oil* or Hydrogenated Polydecene or 50:50 mix of Smart5** & Dodecane Phenoxyethanol is choice material. Natural options such as capryl glycol, potassium sorb ate can be used. Preservative-free can be investigated due to high level of polyol

*These non polar oils may exhibit cloudiness at 5C but reverts back to a clear solution with some agitation **Smart 5 =Isododecane, Hydrogenated Tetradecenyl/Methylpentadecene (IMCD)

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PEG-Free Cleansing Bicontinuous Cleansing Formulation for Sensitive Skin The demand for plant-derived, PEG-free emulsifiers have greatly increased and polyglycerol esters are excellent choices for superior cleansing & unique properties such as having a bicontinuous channel. PEG-Free Bicontinuous Cleansing Gel INCI Name ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE CYCLOMETHICONE 1 POLYGLYCERYL-6 MYRISTATE POLYGLYCERYL-10 PENTAISOSTEARATE POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE POLYGLYCERYL-6 OLEATE LAURIC ACID GLYCERYL BEHENATE/EICOSADIOATE 2 WATER ALCOHOL FRAGRANCE

Trade Name IOP Hexaglyn 1-M Decaglyn 5-ISV Decaglyn 1-L Hexaglyn 1-OV

wt% to 100.00 10.00 12.00 4.00 2.00 2.00 0.50 2.00 4.00 1.00 q.s.

1= Cyclomethicone can be substituted with IOP for a silicone-free variation 2= Glyceryl Behenate/ Eicosadioate is a gellant to create viscous formulations. Optional use.

Before

PEG-Free

PEG Type

Lipstick

Foundation

Mascara (waterproof)

Used with wet hands

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Concept 2 Watery Cleansing

This concept is also called micellar water where micelles (oil droplets) are suspended in an aqueous solution. Makeup or surface dirt when in contact with these ‘invisible’ oil droplets are dissolved with a swipe of a cotton pad. These products are aimed for consumers who require one-step cleansing (cleanse & tone) or for those with a light, daily make-up style.

Request your samples on this site. Type the words “chemical-navi", click on english site!

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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD

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1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: [email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp

Cleansing Water One-step makeup removal with functional care

SG-CG700 INCI: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

SG-CG700 is a non-ionic hydrophilic surfactant that has good solubilizing properties for light makeup removal. Cleary soluble in aqueous surfactant solutions and can solubilize oily materials (e.g. essential oils), transparent cleansing formulations can be created.

Lipstick

Foundation

Control

Cleansing Water With SG-CG700 (20%)

Commercial Cleansing Water (approx. 20% surfactant conc.)

Cleansing Gel With SG-CG700 (10%)

Commercial Cleansing Gel

SG-CG700 is excellent for removal of BB creams or foundations or regular lipstick.

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Cleansing Water One-step makeup removal with functional care Translucent Cleansing Gel

Cleansing Water Trade Name

(%wt)

Trade Name

(%wt)

1

NIKKOL SG-CG700

20.00

1

NIKKOL SG-CG700

10.00

2

NIKKOL Nikkoguard 88

1.00

2

Dimethicone 10cs

5.00

3

Dipropylene Glycol

6.00

4

NIKKOL Lecinol WS-50

0.50

3

Butylene Glycol

5.00

5

D-delta-tocopherol

0.05

4

Glycerin

20.00

6

Butyelene Glycol

4.00

5

15.00

7

Citric Acid

0.01

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (2% solution)

8

Sodium Citrate

0.06

6

Water

39.6

7

Phenoxyethanol

0.40

9

EDTA-2Na

0.05

8

TEA

0.30

10

Noni Fruit Juice (Maruzen Pharmaceuticals)

1.00

9

Water

4.70

11

Hydroxyproline

0.10

Total

100.00

12

Water

67.23

Total

100.00

・ Mix ingredients 1-3 until even. ・Combine 4-6 separately and heat to 45C to solubilize. ・Cool down and add to 1-3. ・Add 7-12 one by one and mix until transparent.

Treatment + Cleansing Concept Trendy market concepts use soothing aloe water or relaxing rosewater. Botanical extracts such as fermented Noni Fruit Juice (Maruzen) or watersoluble lecithin-Lecinol WS-50 strengthen the stratum corneum against daily stress & dryness. ○…Clear Solution △…Can be dispersed well ×…Insoluble

・ Mix 3,4,5,7 well then add 6. ・Add 3-7 to 1-2 and mix again until uniform. ・Neutralize the mixture with 8-9.

SG-CG700 Compatibility Concentration

5% 25℃

40℃

Ethylhexyl Palmitate





Isopropyl Palmitate

×

×

Capryl/Capyrlic Triglyceride

×

×

Triethylhexanonin

×



Mineral Oil #70



Jojoba Oil





Squalane

×

×

1,2 Propylene Glycol





Ethanol





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Gel to Water Concept Cleanse & tone in one-step with gel-to-water concept

Nikkomulese SE INCI Name: Sorbeth-30 Tetraisostearate, Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate, PPG-8-Ceteth 20, Acrylates/ Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Water

• When light pressure is applied on quick break emulsions the inner aqueous phase & oils are released to create a visible transformation from gel-to-water. This concept is ideal for cleansing concepts that highlight refreshing or moisturising claims.

Quick-break

• Nikkomulese SE allows creation of quick-break gels with low-energy paddle mixing. Low-energy

Quick-break Effect for Cleansing

Immediately after application

Rubbed slightly 2 times

Rubbed 4 times

Quick-break Cleansing Gel INCI Name

Trade Name

Role

wt%

Phase A “See above”

NIKKOL Nikkomulese SE

Xanthan Gum Butylene Glycol

quick-break emulsifier

4.50

builder humectant

0.10 5.00

Mascara Removal A

B

Phase B Water Potassium Hydroxide Preservatives Water

85% purity

neutralizer

To 100 0.05 q.s. 9.95

A= Commercial Waterrelease Cream B= Cleansing Gel (NSE)

Phase C Mineral Oil Cetyl Ethylhexanoate Cyclopentasiloxane Tocopherol Acetate

NIKKOL CIO KF-995

base oil cleansing oil cleansing oil

40.00 10.00 10.00 0.10

・Mix evenly all ingredients of each phase ・You can heat phase A & B to 40C. Add Phase C (oils) into B. ・Neutralize A by gradually adding B while gently mixing until a stable gel is formed. 16

Concept 3 Foam Cleansing

Cleansing foams promise rapid removal of oil & dirt, leaving skin refreshed with the use of water but traditionally not suited for sensitive or dry skin. Recent innovations however offer lessstripping formulas or dense & rich foam that can combine cleansing & massage in one-step.

Request your samples on this site. Type the words “chemical-navi", click on english site!

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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD

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Cleansing Foam Ultra-Mild Surfactant for Cleansing Foams

CMT-30 INCI: Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Water

This extremely mild surfactant helps to cleanse skin without removing the skin lipids, which are an essential part of skin barrier. It has good foaming ability and is stable in low pH conditions.

CMT-30 strips less lipids compared to other surfactants Comparison of composition of Nikkol CMT-30 and commercially available aqueous solutions of Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate.

Product A

Product B

CMT-30

Assay (%)

28.7

28.5

30.1

Sodium Chloride (%)

6.3

6.2

0.6

Free Fatty Acids (%)

4.6

---

0

Other grades tends to have up to 10 times more salt (NaCl) than CMT-30. In the finished formula it would mean that CMT-30 will provide a) richer & denser foam, b) will not thicken up and c) will be more transparent.

CMT-30 makes it possible to make low viscosity (fluid) and clear (transparent) shampoo or cleansing formulations, while competing products tend to make formula viscous and opaque. Due to well-balanced alkyl distribution of CMT-30 it will foam better at wider range of temperatures.

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Cleansing Foam Ultra-Mild Surfactant for Cleansing Foams

Phosten HLP-1

INCI: Laureth-1 Phosphate

This mild surfactant is part of the class of mono alkyl phosphates that have a low stinging effect, less stripping and imparts a refreshed yet moistened skin feel after rinsing. Commonly used for mildly-acidic formulations that matches natural skin pH.

Theory for Skin Tightness after Washing Removal of Skin Surface Lipids

Removal of Water Soluble Materials

Water Evaporation

Skin Surface Lipid Stratum Corneum

Skin Tightness

Surfactant Adsorption

Water Permeation

Before Washing

After Washing

Washing

G. Imokawa et. al., Surfactants in Cosmetics 2nd edition. 439-441.(1997).

After the lipids are removed during the washing process and then thoroughly rinsed with water, the small amount of surfactant that remains on the skin (due to the loss of lipids) induces tension in the stratum corneum layer, resulting in the sensation of tightness. Surfactant

Ratio of Lipids Loss

Adsorptive Capability 2

Skin Tightness 3

Water

1.06

0

n/a

Mono-alkyl Phosphate (Phostens)

1.17

0

-0.3

Soap

1.52

12.3

-0.1

Triethanolamine n-acyl L-glutamate

1.35

22.1

-0.1

Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate

1.68

62.3

+0.2

Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate

1.48

82.5

+0.4

1

MAP exhibited the lowest ratio of lipid loss, less adsorbed into the skin (lower irritation) & does not cause skin tightness. Phostens give a very distinctive moist feel after washing without the sting or tightness

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Oil Cleansing Foam The power of oil cleansing combined with the refreshing experience of a foaming wash • Very fine foam captures make-up residues deep in pores and removes them efficiently. • Oil helps moisturise skin but the formulation leaves a non-oily, refreshed skin feeling

Cleansing Power of Foam

Oily material surfactant H2 O

The external surface of a foam is lipophilic (oil-loving) making it compatible in removing oily materials such as sebum or makeup

FOAM OIL CLEANSER (pump type) INCI Name

Trade Name

Wt%

PEG-20 GLYCERYL TRIISOSTEARATE

TGI-20

6.00

Hydrogenated Didecene

Syncelane 2

5.00

Glyceryl Caprylate

2.50

SODIUM METHYL COCOYL TAURATE

CMT-30

5.00

LAURETH-1 PHOSPHATE

Phosten HLP-1

7.50

Dipropylene Glycol

5

Alginine

3.6

Citric acid

0.01

Sodium Citrate

0.02

Water

30

Water

35.37 TOTAL

Possible Oil Substitutes

a) mineral oil b) hydrogenated polyisobutane c) mineral oil + cyclopentasiloxane (1:1) d) hydrogenated polyisobutane + cyclopentasiloxane (1:1) Not Compatible a) cyclopentasiloxane b) squalane

100

・Heat A and B at 80 to 85 degrees C. ・Add B to A while mixing A, and cool it down to the room temperature. ・Add C at room temperature.

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Massaging Foam New rituals: Incorporating facial massage in your morning face wash Experiencing dull skin during your sick days or winter season? A light massage with a rich LPG-powered foam activates skin by improving blood circulation & calms your moods for a positive start.

Pump out foam

Apply on face

Pat on skin (pack)

Massage for 1 min

Rinse-off

Massaging Foam (LPG type)

INCI Name Laureth 1- Phosphate

Trade Name

Wt%

Phosten HLP-1

7.50

Potassium Hydroxide (85%)

1.50

Dipropylene Glycol

4.00

Preservatives

q.s.

Water

24.10

Water, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

CMT-30

5.00

PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate

TCI-20

4.00

Pentylene Glycol

2.00

Glycerin

1.00

Water, Sodium Pentetate

Clewat DP80

Citric Acid

0.10 0.25

Water

To 95.0 Total

95.00

・Heat A to 80 degrees. Stir to cool down at 50C then add B. ・Add C at 45C then gently mix till uniform. Cool down to 35C. ・Add 5% wt. of LPG in the final formulation

Treatment + Cleansing Concept Add 1% Shiso Extract NA (Japanese mint) for microcirculation & proven skin calming effect and 1% Citrus Extract Complex, a blend of 3 citrus extracts (Japanese yuzu, mandarin & bitter orange) for skin turnover to awaken & renew dull-looking skin 21

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Enhancing Nikkofoam Foam Quality Enhance the foam richness, enhanced moist after-feel and improve overall gloss & formulation stability!

Nikkofoam

INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Stearic acid, Glycol Distearate, Tocopherol

Moist Foaming Wash (Moist) Trade Name

INCI Name

(wt%)

NIKKOL NIKKOFOAM S

2.00

Lauric acid

3.00

Myristic acid

12.00

Palmitic acid

5.00

Stearic acid

10.00

Glycerin

23.00

NIKKOL MGS-F50SEV

Glyceric stearate SE

NIKKOL CMT-30

Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate

10.00

NIKKOL SMT

Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate

1.00

1,3-BG

1.00

EDTA -4Na

0.05

Phenoxyethanol

0.50

KOH(85%)

6.45

Water

To 100.00

Stability Improvement Property Cream washes are actually fluid crystalline structures that influence the softness, wetting, and foaming properties. But these crystalline structures usually breakdown at high temperature (storage in tropical countries) causing creaming or separation at the bottom.

Japanese market products at varying high temperatures Separation in all 3 40℃

Amount of NIKKOFOAM S (50℃) 0% 2.0 % 4.0%

45℃

50℃

Addition of Nikkofoam (1-5%) improves high temperature stability by strengthening this crystalline structure without disrupting softness & foaming properties. Moreover, Nikkofoam adds a nice gloss & lessens the “tight” feeling of a typical alkali cream wash

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Concept 4 Milky Cleansing

While other cleansing types focuses on stripping less of lipids, cream or milk type of cleansing emphasizes on replenishing lipids due to a higher oil content and softening effect on skin. This type can be used either with a cotton pad or rinsed with warm water. Ideal for dry season or for people with very dry skin.

Request your samples on this site. Type the words “chemical-navi", click on english site!

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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD

1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: [email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp

Rinsable Cleansing Milk Softens your skin while removing make-up effectively This formulation defies traditional concept of cleansing milk: high makeup removing power, easy to rinse. This formulation is a blend of 4 types of surfactants to create a cleansing milk you can use with wet hands and can be rinsed easily (avoiding too much rubbing/ clogging). The high level of moisturisers (oil + polyol content around 30%) leaves a moisturising veil on skin after rinsing. INCI Name

Trade Name

Role

Wt%

PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate

SG-CG 700

Makeup Remover

10.0%

Methylhepty Laurate

Nikkol GS-MHL

Light-feel Emollient/Remover

5.0

Cyclopentasiloxane

Volatile silicone

5.0

Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone

Volatile silicone

5.0

Mineral Oil

Emollient

3.0

Oil Gellant

0.80

Emollient

0.50

Dextrin Palmitate

Nikkol Dextrin Palmitate

Cetearyl Alcohol Sorbitan Isostearate

Nikkol SL-10RV

Makeup Remover

1.0

Sorbeth 30-Tetraoleate

Nikkol GO-43NV

Makeup Remover

1.0

Polysorbate 60

Nikkol TS-10V

Makeup Remover

1.0

Glycerin

Humectant

10.0

Butylene Glycol

Humectant

3.0

Carbomer

Rheology Modifier

0.20

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Rheology Modifier

0.10

EDTA-2Na

Chelating Agent

0.10

Preservative

0.05

Water

Diluent

To 100.0

Potassium Hydroxide

Neutralizer

0.07

Water

Diluent

4.96

・Heat A & B to 80C until dissolved. ・Add B gradually into A while maintaining the temperature, gently stir until a stable emulsion is formed. ・Add C slowly and cool down until 35C

Treatment + Cleansing Concept • Add in the water phase 1% solution of Hyalo-oligo (Kewpie), a lowmolecular weight hyaluronic acid that hydrates skin as long as 3 days with a single application. Tested to stay long within the stratum corneum making it effective even after washing (compared to conventional HA). • Add in the oil phase 2% of Bois II (Barnet), a blend of plant extracts that replenishes skin lipids and strengthens skin barrier with every cleansing . 24

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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD

1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: [email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp

Melting Cleansing Balm Cleansing that literally melts in your skin! This formulation gives a unique cleansing experience by starting as a waxy balm but dissolves into a silky oil when applied unto skin. Dissolves surface make-up effortlessly while leaving skin soft & supple. Trade Name

Technology of this concept The combination of a non-polar wax (polyethylene) with polar oils creates house-of-card structure where oils are released once shear is applied.

Wt%

NIKKOL Trifat S308

Triethylhexanoin

to 100

Performalene PL

Polyethylene

5.0

Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate

4.0

Sorbitan Oleate

1.0

NIKKOL GO-430NV NIKKOL SO-10V

Polar oils are trapped in this crystalline structure

INCI

Tocopherol

0.2

Propylparaben

q.s.

Fregrance

q.s

Heat to 90 degrees C and mix well

To use: Pick appropriate amount and gently massage unto skin until make-up is dissolved. Rinse with warm water or wipe with warm muslin cloth for a thorough spa-like cleanse.

Treatment + Cleansing Concept • Add 1-2% Meadowfoam Seed Oil, a waxy oil suited for balm formulations. Rich in long-chain fatty acids- this oil is perfect for anti-aging cleansing concepts. • 1-2% Macadamia Nut Oil to replenish aged skin with palmitoleic acid, a fatty acid we lose eventually as we age.

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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD

1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: [email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp

PEG-Free Cleansing Cream Rich cleansing cream that releases oils when massaged on skin 3 KEY OILY MATERIALS: Superior cleansing effect is brought by Trifat S308 while ODM-100 brings luxurious spread & body. Behenyl Alcohol 80 gives a velvety elegance to the total formulation. TREATMENT ITEM: Hyalo-oligo is proven to be retained on skin even after washing. Boosts water levels in upper layers of the skin & imparts a moist & firming feel.

CLEANSING CREAM Lot.20-NC07 INCI Name

Trade Name

wt%

A Triethylhexanoin

NIKKOL Trifat S-308

30.00

OCTYLDODECYL MYRISTATE

NIKKOL ODM-100

25.00

BEHENYL ALCOHOL

NIKKOL BEHENYL ALCOHOL 80

2.00

GLYCERYL STEARATE

NIKKOL MGS-BV2

1.00

DIMETHICONE

KF 96A-350cs (SHINETSU)

0.50

B BUTYLENE GLYCOL

10.00

CARBOMER

0.20

SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE

NIKKOL SMT

0.30

POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE

NIKKOL Decaglyn 1-L

0.50

SUCROSE STEARATE

0.50

PHENOXYETHANOL

0.40

WATER

22.53 C

POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE

0.07

WATER

3.00 D

HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID HYALO-OLIGO

1.00

WATER

3.00 total

100.00

・Heat A and B to 80-85 degrees C and mix well ・Add A into B gradually and homogenize at 5000 rpm for 3 minutes (in case of 200 g scale) ・After homogenization add C and stir while cooling ・At 45 degrees C add D and keep stirring till 35 degrees C pH (10%): 6.72

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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD

1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: [email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp

POINT CLEANSING 99% Natural Point Cleanser with triple cleansing action • Glycerin-rich formula reacts with moisture to warm up the skin & soften it for serious cleansing. • Natural solubilizer, Decaglyn 1-L, helps dissolve excess sebum like a powerful oil cleanser • Mannan beads provide its unique “soft scrubbing” to clear away dead skin cells without irritating or hurting skin. Sugarcane-derived Squalane leaves your skin soft and moisturised after rinsing.

WARMING SCRUB GEL Lot.30-KAC-09 INCI Name

Trade Name

wt%

A GLYCERIN (plant-derived)

84.70

CARBOMER

0.30

BUTYLENE GLYCOL

HAISUGARCANE BG

PERSERVATIVE

10.00 p.s.

B TRIETHANOLAMINE

0.30 C

POLYGLYCERYL-10-LAURATE

NIKKOL DECAGLYN 1-L

3.00

SQUALANE

NIKKOL SUGAR SQUALANE

1.00

EUCALYPTUS OIL

0.10 D

MANNAN

PROPOL ISLB-Large Total

1.00 100.00

・Heat A and C (except Carbomer) to 80degrees C and mix well ・Add Carbopol 980 while stirring with dispersion mixer, and cool it down. ・Add B-D at room temperature and mix well. pH (10%): 7.15 Commercial Benchmark

Cleansing effect was superior compared to benchmark* *Benchmark used PEG-type solubilizer

Warming Scrub Gel

Cleansing effect determined using artificial sebum (0.02 grams). Products (0.2g) were rubbed 20 times without rinsing.

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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD.

1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN TEL: 81-3-3661-1677 FAX: 81-3-3664-8620 E-mail: [email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp

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