CLEANSING HANDBOOK 2014 edition 1
NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD
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Cleansing Types
OIL TYPE
WATERY TYPE
“Like dissolves like” concept allows oil cleansers to remove make-up or waterresistant sunscreen most effectively. Emulsifiers dissolved in oil allow easy rinsing with water. Ideal for heavy make-up users.
Cleansing waters are surfactants dissolved in a water base and are used together with a cotton pad to remove surface dirt. Suitable for skin who are easily irritated with frequent washing.
FOAM TYPE
MILK / BALM TYPE
Speedy & efficient cleansing is the main benefit of rinse-off foam cleansers. Newer formulations use surfactants that are less stripping, allow mildlyacidic formulations with a rich foam & leave a refreshing after-rinse feel.
The higher content of oils in milky formulations are suited for extremely dry skin. To be massaged gently with fingers, it dissolves make-up and dirt and can be removed by water or by tissue.
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Concept 1 Oil Cleansing
Formulating cleansing oils is achieving a good balance of cleansing oils held by lipophilic surfactants. Recent innovations in this category (also called “bicontinuous” formulations) allow the addition of water & humectants to make it easily rinsable and leaves a non-sticky, softened skin feel.
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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD
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Esters for Cleansing Oils Our special esters for formulating mild and effective cleansing oils with nice feel.
DS-1220 INCI: Dibutyloctyl Sebacate This ester shows superior make up removing properties. It easily dissolves and disperses poorly soluble substances. DS-1220 provides elegant non-greasy feel after cleansing. Clear & odorless.
Trade Name
Cleansing effect on lipstick. Left: cleansing cream with DS-1220. Right: control.
Absorbency index
DS-1220
0.1397
NIKKOL Trifat S-308
0.1264
NIKKOL CIO
0.1178
Mineral oil
0.1080
Trifat S-308 INCI: Triethylhexanoin
CIO INCI: Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
GS-MHL INCI: Methyheptyl Laurate
A higher absorbency value means there is more of the make-up eluting into the solution which means a higher cleansing effect. (Evaluated at a wavelength of 580nm) Test method: a commercially-available lipstick was applied evenly to a cotton pad (1.5 x 3cm) and allowed to sit for 20 minutes. The pad was placed in a bottle containing the sample cleansing oil. Using a shaker, the bottle was shaken for 20 minutes at 30C.
Clear and odorless emollient and texture enhancing triglyceride ester oil. Excellent cleansing and pigment dispersing effect.
Colorless ester with remarkably light feel. Superior stability, low irritation and emollient effect.
Ultra-light plant-derived cleansing ester manufactured with minimum waste (e-factor of 0.02)*. Ideal for formulators searching for D5 replacement for cleansing
Before Cleansing
1 Cleansing with GS-MHL
2
3
Legend: 1= Powder foundation 2= Cream foundation 3= Water-proof mascara
The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means. 4
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Emulsifiers for Cleansing Oils Self-emulsifying surfactant to allow base oils to interact with water for easy rinsability.
GO-430 NV INCI NAME
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
APPEARANCE
Light yellow liquid
HLB
11.5
CAS NO.
63089-86-1
SPECIAL FEATURES/ MAIN USES
Hydrophilic emulsifier for a wide range of substances; suitable for nonpolar base oils such as mineral oil, plant derived
GO-430NV
Formulation 1: Self- emulsifying Cleansing Oil This is a traditional anhydrous (water-free) cleansing oil formulation with GO-430NV as the main emulsifier. The base oil (mineral oil) can be replaced with light-feel sustainable Sugar Squalane (see below) or any vegetable oil for a more natural formulation. INCI/Trade Name
A
wt%
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
NIKKOL GO-430NV
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
NIKKOL SO-15V
Triethylhexanoin
NIKKOL Trifat S-308
20.0
Dibutyloctyl Sebacate
DS-1220
20.0
Mineral oil
11.0 4.0
-
45.0
Procedure: Mix well at room temperature.
Green Formulations with Sugar Squalane Squalane is a choice emollient for its high skin absorption & softening effect on skin. Sugar Squalane is made from sugarcane grown through traceable and sustainable techniques in Brazil. Compared to olive squalane, this does not compete with food consumption thus making supply & pricing stable. Spreadabilty
2
Moist feel Tackiness
1 0 ‐1 ‐2
Sensory evaluation of Different Types of Squalane
Skin absorption
Shark‐derived Squalane Oily after feel
Olive‐derived Squalane NIKKOL Sugar Squalane
The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.
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Emulsifiers for Cleansing Oils Plant-derived self-emulsifying non-ionic surfactant with superior cleansing properties.
TGI-20 INCI Name:PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate.
Evaluation of Cleansing Oils’ Efficacy of Water-Proof Makeup Removal
Trade Name (INCI)
Tested samples 1. Water (control) 2. Commercial Cleansing Oil (Japan) 3. Cleansing Oil with TGI-20 Method: Lipstick (commercial water-proof lipstick) and mascara (commercial, waterproof) were applied to test sites on the inner forearm. Each test site is massaged 10 times and then rinsed. Cleansing effect is measured by visual observation.
NIKKOL TGI-20 (PEG-20 Glyceryl Trisostearate)
15.0
NIKKOL IOP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate)
10.0
NIKKOL CIO (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate)
10.0
Mineral oil
64.6
Phenoxyethanol
0.4
Procedure: mix till uniform with paddle mixer
Cleansing Effect on Water-proof Mascara 1
2
wt%
3
Cleansing Power
Cleansing Effect on Water-proof Lipstick 1
2
3
Cleansing Power
1. Water (control) 2. Commercial Cleansing Oil (Japan) 3. Cleansing Oil with TGI-20
The Green leaf signifies material is plant derived or manufactured using sustainable means.
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Innovative Cleansing Oil What are Bicontinuous Cleansing Formulations? Before Removing of Waterproof Mascara
Conventional Cleansing Oil
Bicontinuous Cleansing Oil
Dry Hands
Wet Hands
Japan is known for its rich tradition of bathing. This tradition extends to nightly bathing rituals in the household. Skincare manufacturers such as Kao or Shiseido employ their knowledge on colloid science to provide cleansing oils that can be used in the bath allows women to save time. Moreover, Japanese cleansing oils have evolved to be less feeling like oil but more like water. 7
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Conventional Type I. The challenges of a conventional formulation Hydrophilic SAA
Hydrophobic SAA
Oil Conventional Type Small / Large amount of water
Water
O/W emulsion
Cleansing Oil
Conventional Type: These type of cleansers emulsify immediately with the presence of water even at small amounts. This leads to reduced cleansing power & low rinsability of the formulation.
Oil + Surfactant
1
Loss of Cleansing Power
2
Low Rinsability
Makeup/ dirt
Skin Surface
removal
1. With wet hands, oil droplets will be created (emulsification) but water obstructs the suspended droplets from adhering to makeup
Skin Surface
2. Water will also increase the particle size of these oil droplets leaving a sticky feeling on skin.
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Bicontinuous Type II. The merits of a bicontinuous formulation Hydrophilic SAA
Hydrophobic SAA
Oil Oil
Water
Water
Cleansing Oil
Bicontinuous Phase
O/W emulsion
Bicontinuous formulation is when an amphiphilic blend of surfactants allows to balance equal volumes of oil & water and exist freely in the continuous phase.
Bicontinuous Blend
1
Slower emulsification
2
Rinsable Microemulsion
Makeup/ dirt
dissolution
1. The bicontinuous channels of water and oil allow interaction without water without immediate emulsification.
2. With addition of more water, size of oil droplets are reduced and stabilized into “micelles” preventing re-adhesion and allows easy rinsing.
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Cleansing Oil Premixes Premixes that form a bi-continuous phase Cleomix DX
INCI Name:PEG-10 Laurate, Sorbitan Oleate, Decyl Glucoside, Alcohol, Water
This is a blend of plant-derived, low irritation ingredients suited for formulations aiming for sensitive skin. This blend creates a bicontinuous structures with a wide variety of oils of different polarities. This can be thicken into milks or balms that can be washed easily into a micro-emulsion Presence of bicontinuous channel:
Regular oil emulsifies.
Cleomix DX oil forms visible bi-continuous phase (oil and water repel each other).
The behavior in contact with water of cleansing oil made with Cleomix DX and regular (not “wet hand” type) cleansing oil was compared. One drop of each oils was dropped in beakers filled with water.
Cleansing Effect of Cleomix DX vs. Commercial Cleansing Oils
This Sugar Squalane-rich bicontinuous cleansing oil cleanses skin effectively while also leaving it softened & moisturised. Formula: Cleomix Oil A Before
Mascara
Market
product A
Market product B
Cleomix Oil A
Trade Name NIKKOL CLEOMIX DX
25.0
NIKKOL CIO (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate)
5.0
NIKKOL IOP (Ethylhexyl Palmitate)
35.0
NIKKOL Natural Oils 1
3.0
Cyclomethicone
15.0
NIKKOL Sugar Squalane
Foundation
Lipstick
Wt%
To 100.0
Fragrance
q.s.
Preservative
q.s.
Water
2.5
・Mix A well. Add B while stirring A. ・Stop stirring when mixture becomes transparent. 10
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Cleansing Oil Premixes Premixes that form a bicontinuous phase
Nikkomix CW
INCI Name:PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, Sorbitan Oleate, Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
This is a blend of plant-derived non-ionic surfactants that create a bicontinuous channel allowing make-up removal in the shower or in the bath. This is an economical alternative for those who require speedy formulation development time. Removal Effect on Waterproof Mascara Before Cleansing
Dry Hands
Commercial Commercial bicontinuous formula oil-based formula
Nikkomix CW Powerful make-up removal effect in any condition!
Wet Hands
Simple Modification of Formulation using Nikkomix CW Nikkomix CW is a ready-to-use blend where you just add selected polyols & cleansing esters then dilute with water! Elaborate modification is not necessary. Trade Name/ INCI
Wt%
Nikkomix CW
33.00
This ratio of N-CW is necessary for transparency
Butylene Glycol
20.00
PG or DPG can be substituted using the same ratio. Or a 50:50 mix of BG or propanediol
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
20.00
Water Preservative
to 100.00 q.s.
Straight chain ester oils can be substituted (e.g. ethylhexyl palmitate or decyl oleate). 10% Mineral Oil* or Hydrogenated Polydecene or 50:50 mix of Smart5** & Dodecane Phenoxyethanol is choice material. Natural options such as capryl glycol, potassium sorb ate can be used. Preservative-free can be investigated due to high level of polyol
*These non polar oils may exhibit cloudiness at 5C but reverts back to a clear solution with some agitation **Smart 5 =Isododecane, Hydrogenated Tetradecenyl/Methylpentadecene (IMCD)
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PEG-Free Cleansing Bicontinuous Cleansing Formulation for Sensitive Skin The demand for plant-derived, PEG-free emulsifiers have greatly increased and polyglycerol esters are excellent choices for superior cleansing & unique properties such as having a bicontinuous channel. PEG-Free Bicontinuous Cleansing Gel INCI Name ETHYLHEXYL PALMITATE CYCLOMETHICONE 1 POLYGLYCERYL-6 MYRISTATE POLYGLYCERYL-10 PENTAISOSTEARATE POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE POLYGLYCERYL-6 OLEATE LAURIC ACID GLYCERYL BEHENATE/EICOSADIOATE 2 WATER ALCOHOL FRAGRANCE
Trade Name IOP Hexaglyn 1-M Decaglyn 5-ISV Decaglyn 1-L Hexaglyn 1-OV
wt% to 100.00 10.00 12.00 4.00 2.00 2.00 0.50 2.00 4.00 1.00 q.s.
1= Cyclomethicone can be substituted with IOP for a silicone-free variation 2= Glyceryl Behenate/ Eicosadioate is a gellant to create viscous formulations. Optional use.
Before
PEG-Free
PEG Type
Lipstick
Foundation
Mascara (waterproof)
Used with wet hands
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Concept 2 Watery Cleansing
This concept is also called micellar water where micelles (oil droplets) are suspended in an aqueous solution. Makeup or surface dirt when in contact with these ‘invisible’ oil droplets are dissolved with a swipe of a cotton pad. These products are aimed for consumers who require one-step cleansing (cleanse & tone) or for those with a light, daily make-up style.
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Cleansing Water One-step makeup removal with functional care
SG-CG700 INCI: PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
SG-CG700 is a non-ionic hydrophilic surfactant that has good solubilizing properties for light makeup removal. Cleary soluble in aqueous surfactant solutions and can solubilize oily materials (e.g. essential oils), transparent cleansing formulations can be created.
Lipstick
Foundation
Control
Cleansing Water With SG-CG700 (20%)
Commercial Cleansing Water (approx. 20% surfactant conc.)
Cleansing Gel With SG-CG700 (10%)
Commercial Cleansing Gel
SG-CG700 is excellent for removal of BB creams or foundations or regular lipstick.
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Cleansing Water One-step makeup removal with functional care Translucent Cleansing Gel
Cleansing Water Trade Name
(%wt)
Trade Name
(%wt)
1
NIKKOL SG-CG700
20.00
1
NIKKOL SG-CG700
10.00
2
NIKKOL Nikkoguard 88
1.00
2
Dimethicone 10cs
5.00
3
Dipropylene Glycol
6.00
4
NIKKOL Lecinol WS-50
0.50
3
Butylene Glycol
5.00
5
D-delta-tocopherol
0.05
4
Glycerin
20.00
6
Butyelene Glycol
4.00
5
15.00
7
Citric Acid
0.01
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer (2% solution)
8
Sodium Citrate
0.06
6
Water
39.6
7
Phenoxyethanol
0.40
9
EDTA-2Na
0.05
8
TEA
0.30
10
Noni Fruit Juice (Maruzen Pharmaceuticals)
1.00
9
Water
4.70
11
Hydroxyproline
0.10
Total
100.00
12
Water
67.23
Total
100.00
・ Mix ingredients 1-3 until even. ・Combine 4-6 separately and heat to 45C to solubilize. ・Cool down and add to 1-3. ・Add 7-12 one by one and mix until transparent.
Treatment + Cleansing Concept Trendy market concepts use soothing aloe water or relaxing rosewater. Botanical extracts such as fermented Noni Fruit Juice (Maruzen) or watersoluble lecithin-Lecinol WS-50 strengthen the stratum corneum against daily stress & dryness. ○…Clear Solution △…Can be dispersed well ×…Insoluble
・ Mix 3,4,5,7 well then add 6. ・Add 3-7 to 1-2 and mix again until uniform. ・Neutralize the mixture with 8-9.
SG-CG700 Compatibility Concentration
5% 25℃
40℃
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
△
△
Isopropyl Palmitate
×
×
Capryl/Capyrlic Triglyceride
×
×
Triethylhexanonin
×
△
Mineral Oil #70
○
Jojoba Oil
○
○
Squalane
×
×
1,2 Propylene Glycol
△
○
Ethanol
△
△
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Gel to Water Concept Cleanse & tone in one-step with gel-to-water concept
Nikkomulese SE INCI Name: Sorbeth-30 Tetraisostearate, Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate, PPG-8-Ceteth 20, Acrylates/ Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Water
• When light pressure is applied on quick break emulsions the inner aqueous phase & oils are released to create a visible transformation from gel-to-water. This concept is ideal for cleansing concepts that highlight refreshing or moisturising claims.
Quick-break
• Nikkomulese SE allows creation of quick-break gels with low-energy paddle mixing. Low-energy
Quick-break Effect for Cleansing
Immediately after application
Rubbed slightly 2 times
Rubbed 4 times
Quick-break Cleansing Gel INCI Name
Trade Name
Role
wt%
Phase A “See above”
NIKKOL Nikkomulese SE
Xanthan Gum Butylene Glycol
quick-break emulsifier
4.50
builder humectant
0.10 5.00
Mascara Removal A
B
Phase B Water Potassium Hydroxide Preservatives Water
85% purity
neutralizer
To 100 0.05 q.s. 9.95
A= Commercial Waterrelease Cream B= Cleansing Gel (NSE)
Phase C Mineral Oil Cetyl Ethylhexanoate Cyclopentasiloxane Tocopherol Acetate
NIKKOL CIO KF-995
base oil cleansing oil cleansing oil
40.00 10.00 10.00 0.10
・Mix evenly all ingredients of each phase ・You can heat phase A & B to 40C. Add Phase C (oils) into B. ・Neutralize A by gradually adding B while gently mixing until a stable gel is formed. 16
Concept 3 Foam Cleansing
Cleansing foams promise rapid removal of oil & dirt, leaving skin refreshed with the use of water but traditionally not suited for sensitive or dry skin. Recent innovations however offer lessstripping formulas or dense & rich foam that can combine cleansing & massage in one-step.
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Cleansing Foam Ultra-Mild Surfactant for Cleansing Foams
CMT-30 INCI: Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Water
This extremely mild surfactant helps to cleanse skin without removing the skin lipids, which are an essential part of skin barrier. It has good foaming ability and is stable in low pH conditions.
CMT-30 strips less lipids compared to other surfactants Comparison of composition of Nikkol CMT-30 and commercially available aqueous solutions of Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate.
Product A
Product B
CMT-30
Assay (%)
28.7
28.5
30.1
Sodium Chloride (%)
6.3
6.2
0.6
Free Fatty Acids (%)
4.6
---
0
Other grades tends to have up to 10 times more salt (NaCl) than CMT-30. In the finished formula it would mean that CMT-30 will provide a) richer & denser foam, b) will not thicken up and c) will be more transparent.
CMT-30 makes it possible to make low viscosity (fluid) and clear (transparent) shampoo or cleansing formulations, while competing products tend to make formula viscous and opaque. Due to well-balanced alkyl distribution of CMT-30 it will foam better at wider range of temperatures.
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Cleansing Foam Ultra-Mild Surfactant for Cleansing Foams
Phosten HLP-1
INCI: Laureth-1 Phosphate
This mild surfactant is part of the class of mono alkyl phosphates that have a low stinging effect, less stripping and imparts a refreshed yet moistened skin feel after rinsing. Commonly used for mildly-acidic formulations that matches natural skin pH.
Theory for Skin Tightness after Washing Removal of Skin Surface Lipids
Removal of Water Soluble Materials
Water Evaporation
Skin Surface Lipid Stratum Corneum
Skin Tightness
Surfactant Adsorption
Water Permeation
Before Washing
After Washing
Washing
G. Imokawa et. al., Surfactants in Cosmetics 2nd edition. 439-441.(1997).
After the lipids are removed during the washing process and then thoroughly rinsed with water, the small amount of surfactant that remains on the skin (due to the loss of lipids) induces tension in the stratum corneum layer, resulting in the sensation of tightness. Surfactant
Ratio of Lipids Loss
Adsorptive Capability 2
Skin Tightness 3
Water
1.06
0
n/a
Mono-alkyl Phosphate (Phostens)
1.17
0
-0.3
Soap
1.52
12.3
-0.1
Triethanolamine n-acyl L-glutamate
1.35
22.1
-0.1
Polyoxyethylene alkyl ether sulfate
1.68
62.3
+0.2
Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate
1.48
82.5
+0.4
1
MAP exhibited the lowest ratio of lipid loss, less adsorbed into the skin (lower irritation) & does not cause skin tightness. Phostens give a very distinctive moist feel after washing without the sting or tightness
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Oil Cleansing Foam The power of oil cleansing combined with the refreshing experience of a foaming wash • Very fine foam captures make-up residues deep in pores and removes them efficiently. • Oil helps moisturise skin but the formulation leaves a non-oily, refreshed skin feeling
Cleansing Power of Foam
Oily material surfactant H2 O
The external surface of a foam is lipophilic (oil-loving) making it compatible in removing oily materials such as sebum or makeup
FOAM OIL CLEANSER (pump type) INCI Name
Trade Name
Wt%
PEG-20 GLYCERYL TRIISOSTEARATE
TGI-20
6.00
Hydrogenated Didecene
Syncelane 2
5.00
Glyceryl Caprylate
2.50
SODIUM METHYL COCOYL TAURATE
CMT-30
5.00
LAURETH-1 PHOSPHATE
Phosten HLP-1
7.50
Dipropylene Glycol
5
Alginine
3.6
Citric acid
0.01
Sodium Citrate
0.02
Water
30
Water
35.37 TOTAL
Possible Oil Substitutes
a) mineral oil b) hydrogenated polyisobutane c) mineral oil + cyclopentasiloxane (1:1) d) hydrogenated polyisobutane + cyclopentasiloxane (1:1) Not Compatible a) cyclopentasiloxane b) squalane
100
・Heat A and B at 80 to 85 degrees C. ・Add B to A while mixing A, and cool it down to the room temperature. ・Add C at room temperature.
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Massaging Foam New rituals: Incorporating facial massage in your morning face wash Experiencing dull skin during your sick days or winter season? A light massage with a rich LPG-powered foam activates skin by improving blood circulation & calms your moods for a positive start.
Pump out foam
Apply on face
Pat on skin (pack)
Massage for 1 min
Rinse-off
Massaging Foam (LPG type)
INCI Name Laureth 1- Phosphate
Trade Name
Wt%
Phosten HLP-1
7.50
Potassium Hydroxide (85%)
1.50
Dipropylene Glycol
4.00
Preservatives
q.s.
Water
24.10
Water, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
CMT-30
5.00
PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
TCI-20
4.00
Pentylene Glycol
2.00
Glycerin
1.00
Water, Sodium Pentetate
Clewat DP80
Citric Acid
0.10 0.25
Water
To 95.0 Total
95.00
・Heat A to 80 degrees. Stir to cool down at 50C then add B. ・Add C at 45C then gently mix till uniform. Cool down to 35C. ・Add 5% wt. of LPG in the final formulation
Treatment + Cleansing Concept Add 1% Shiso Extract NA (Japanese mint) for microcirculation & proven skin calming effect and 1% Citrus Extract Complex, a blend of 3 citrus extracts (Japanese yuzu, mandarin & bitter orange) for skin turnover to awaken & renew dull-looking skin 21
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Enhancing Nikkofoam Foam Quality Enhance the foam richness, enhanced moist after-feel and improve overall gloss & formulation stability!
Nikkofoam
INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Stearic acid, Glycol Distearate, Tocopherol
Moist Foaming Wash (Moist) Trade Name
INCI Name
(wt%)
NIKKOL NIKKOFOAM S
2.00
Lauric acid
3.00
Myristic acid
12.00
Palmitic acid
5.00
Stearic acid
10.00
Glycerin
23.00
NIKKOL MGS-F50SEV
Glyceric stearate SE
NIKKOL CMT-30
Sodium methyl cocoyl taurate
10.00
NIKKOL SMT
Sodium methyl stearoyl taurate
1.00
1,3-BG
1.00
EDTA -4Na
0.05
Phenoxyethanol
0.50
KOH(85%)
6.45
Water
To 100.00
Stability Improvement Property Cream washes are actually fluid crystalline structures that influence the softness, wetting, and foaming properties. But these crystalline structures usually breakdown at high temperature (storage in tropical countries) causing creaming or separation at the bottom.
Japanese market products at varying high temperatures Separation in all 3 40℃
Amount of NIKKOFOAM S (50℃) 0% 2.0 % 4.0%
45℃
50℃
Addition of Nikkofoam (1-5%) improves high temperature stability by strengthening this crystalline structure without disrupting softness & foaming properties. Moreover, Nikkofoam adds a nice gloss & lessens the “tight” feeling of a typical alkali cream wash
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Concept 4 Milky Cleansing
While other cleansing types focuses on stripping less of lipids, cream or milk type of cleansing emphasizes on replenishing lipids due to a higher oil content and softening effect on skin. This type can be used either with a cotton pad or rinsed with warm water. Ideal for dry season or for people with very dry skin.
Request your samples on this site. Type the words “chemical-navi", click on english site!
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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD
1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email:
[email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp
Rinsable Cleansing Milk Softens your skin while removing make-up effectively This formulation defies traditional concept of cleansing milk: high makeup removing power, easy to rinse. This formulation is a blend of 4 types of surfactants to create a cleansing milk you can use with wet hands and can be rinsed easily (avoiding too much rubbing/ clogging). The high level of moisturisers (oil + polyol content around 30%) leaves a moisturising veil on skin after rinsing. INCI Name
Trade Name
Role
Wt%
PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
SG-CG 700
Makeup Remover
10.0%
Methylhepty Laurate
Nikkol GS-MHL
Light-feel Emollient/Remover
5.0
Cyclopentasiloxane
Volatile silicone
5.0
Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone
Volatile silicone
5.0
Mineral Oil
Emollient
3.0
Oil Gellant
0.80
Emollient
0.50
Dextrin Palmitate
Nikkol Dextrin Palmitate
Cetearyl Alcohol Sorbitan Isostearate
Nikkol SL-10RV
Makeup Remover
1.0
Sorbeth 30-Tetraoleate
Nikkol GO-43NV
Makeup Remover
1.0
Polysorbate 60
Nikkol TS-10V
Makeup Remover
1.0
Glycerin
Humectant
10.0
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
3.0
Carbomer
Rheology Modifier
0.20
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Rheology Modifier
0.10
EDTA-2Na
Chelating Agent
0.10
Preservative
0.05
Water
Diluent
To 100.0
Potassium Hydroxide
Neutralizer
0.07
Water
Diluent
4.96
・Heat A & B to 80C until dissolved. ・Add B gradually into A while maintaining the temperature, gently stir until a stable emulsion is formed. ・Add C slowly and cool down until 35C
Treatment + Cleansing Concept • Add in the water phase 1% solution of Hyalo-oligo (Kewpie), a lowmolecular weight hyaluronic acid that hydrates skin as long as 3 days with a single application. Tested to stay long within the stratum corneum making it effective even after washing (compared to conventional HA). • Add in the oil phase 2% of Bois II (Barnet), a blend of plant extracts that replenishes skin lipids and strengthens skin barrier with every cleansing . 24
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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD
1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email:
[email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp
Melting Cleansing Balm Cleansing that literally melts in your skin! This formulation gives a unique cleansing experience by starting as a waxy balm but dissolves into a silky oil when applied unto skin. Dissolves surface make-up effortlessly while leaving skin soft & supple. Trade Name
Technology of this concept The combination of a non-polar wax (polyethylene) with polar oils creates house-of-card structure where oils are released once shear is applied.
Wt%
NIKKOL Trifat S308
Triethylhexanoin
to 100
Performalene PL
Polyethylene
5.0
Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
4.0
Sorbitan Oleate
1.0
NIKKOL GO-430NV NIKKOL SO-10V
Polar oils are trapped in this crystalline structure
INCI
Tocopherol
0.2
Propylparaben
q.s.
Fregrance
q.s
Heat to 90 degrees C and mix well
To use: Pick appropriate amount and gently massage unto skin until make-up is dissolved. Rinse with warm water or wipe with warm muslin cloth for a thorough spa-like cleanse.
Treatment + Cleansing Concept • Add 1-2% Meadowfoam Seed Oil, a waxy oil suited for balm formulations. Rich in long-chain fatty acids- this oil is perfect for anti-aging cleansing concepts. • 1-2% Macadamia Nut Oil to replenish aged skin with palmitoleic acid, a fatty acid we lose eventually as we age.
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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD
1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email:
[email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp
PEG-Free Cleansing Cream Rich cleansing cream that releases oils when massaged on skin 3 KEY OILY MATERIALS: Superior cleansing effect is brought by Trifat S308 while ODM-100 brings luxurious spread & body. Behenyl Alcohol 80 gives a velvety elegance to the total formulation. TREATMENT ITEM: Hyalo-oligo is proven to be retained on skin even after washing. Boosts water levels in upper layers of the skin & imparts a moist & firming feel.
CLEANSING CREAM Lot.20-NC07 INCI Name
Trade Name
wt%
A Triethylhexanoin
NIKKOL Trifat S-308
30.00
OCTYLDODECYL MYRISTATE
NIKKOL ODM-100
25.00
BEHENYL ALCOHOL
NIKKOL BEHENYL ALCOHOL 80
2.00
GLYCERYL STEARATE
NIKKOL MGS-BV2
1.00
DIMETHICONE
KF 96A-350cs (SHINETSU)
0.50
B BUTYLENE GLYCOL
10.00
CARBOMER
0.20
SODIUM METHYL STEAROYL TAURATE
NIKKOL SMT
0.30
POLYGLYCERYL-10 LAURATE
NIKKOL Decaglyn 1-L
0.50
SUCROSE STEARATE
0.50
PHENOXYETHANOL
0.40
WATER
22.53 C
POTASSIUM HYDROXIDE
0.07
WATER
3.00 D
HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID HYALO-OLIGO
1.00
WATER
3.00 total
100.00
・Heat A and B to 80-85 degrees C and mix well ・Add A into B gradually and homogenize at 5000 rpm for 3 minutes (in case of 200 g scale) ・After homogenization add C and stir while cooling ・At 45 degrees C add D and keep stirring till 35 degrees C pH (10%): 6.72
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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD
1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email:
[email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp
POINT CLEANSING 99% Natural Point Cleanser with triple cleansing action • Glycerin-rich formula reacts with moisture to warm up the skin & soften it for serious cleansing. • Natural solubilizer, Decaglyn 1-L, helps dissolve excess sebum like a powerful oil cleanser • Mannan beads provide its unique “soft scrubbing” to clear away dead skin cells without irritating or hurting skin. Sugarcane-derived Squalane leaves your skin soft and moisturised after rinsing.
WARMING SCRUB GEL Lot.30-KAC-09 INCI Name
Trade Name
wt%
A GLYCERIN (plant-derived)
84.70
CARBOMER
0.30
BUTYLENE GLYCOL
HAISUGARCANE BG
PERSERVATIVE
10.00 p.s.
B TRIETHANOLAMINE
0.30 C
POLYGLYCERYL-10-LAURATE
NIKKOL DECAGLYN 1-L
3.00
SQUALANE
NIKKOL SUGAR SQUALANE
1.00
EUCALYPTUS OIL
0.10 D
MANNAN
PROPOL ISLB-Large Total
1.00 100.00
・Heat A and C (except Carbomer) to 80degrees C and mix well ・Add Carbopol 980 while stirring with dispersion mixer, and cool it down. ・Add B-D at room temperature and mix well. pH (10%): 7.15 Commercial Benchmark
Cleansing effect was superior compared to benchmark* *Benchmark used PEG-type solubilizer
Warming Scrub Gel
Cleansing effect determined using artificial sebum (0.02 grams). Products (0.2g) were rubbed 20 times without rinsing.
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NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD.
1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN TEL: 81-3-3661-1677 FAX: 81-3-3664-8620 E-mail:
[email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp
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