Champagne Houses A - M

Champagne Houses A - M By Derek Smedley MW Last Updated 11/7/2015 Derek Smedley MW, Rectory Cottage, Lilley, Hertfordshire, LU2 8LU. www.dereksmedle...
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Champagne Houses A - M

By Derek Smedley MW Last Updated 11/7/2015

Derek Smedley MW, Rectory Cottage, Lilley, Hertfordshire, LU2 8LU. www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk

August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE Tasting notes from the following growers:

Contents

Ariston Père et Fils .......................................................................................................... 5 Ayala............................................................................................................................... 5 Barons de Rothschild ....................................................................................................... 5 Albert Beerens................................................................................................................. 5 Besserat de Bellefon ........................................................................................................ 6 Billecart-Salmon ............................................................................................................. 6 H Blin ............................................................................................................................. 6 Champagne Bollinger ...................................................................................................... 7 Bruno Paillard ................................................................................................................. 8 Canard-Duchene .............................................................................................................. 8 De Castellane .................................................................................................................. 8 Champagne de Castelnau ................................................................................................. 9 Charles Heidsieck ............................................................................................................ 9 Champagne Charles-Henry .......................................................................................... 9 Michel Collard ................................................................................................................ 9 Jean Comyn Champagne ............................................................................................... 10 Maison Dauby ............................................................................................................... 11 Champagne Delamotte .................................................................................................. 12 Descombes .................................................................................................................... 12 Champagne Deutz ......................................................................................................... 12 Champagne Devaux ...................................................................................................... 12 Jean-Paul Deville .......................................................................................................... 12 Drappier ........................................................................................................................ 13 Etienne Dumont ............................................................................................................ 13 R Dumont & Fils ........................................................................................................... 13 Duval Leroy .................................................................................................................. 13 Édouard Brun ................................................................................................................ 14 www.dereksmedleymw.co.uk |

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012 Eric Rodez ................................................................................................................... 14 Nicholas Feuillatte......................................................................................................... 14 Fluteau Champagne ....................................................................................................... 14 Champagne Forget Brimont........................................................................................... 15 Champagne Fresne Ducret ......................................................................................... 16 Froment-Griffon ............................................................................................................ 16 Gardet ........................................................................................................................... 17 Gosset ........................................................................................................................... 17 Gosset-Brabant .............................................................................................................. 18 H Goutorbe ................................................................................................................... 18 Heidseick & Co Monopole ............................................................................................ 19 Champagne Hennequin Père et Fils ............................................................................... 19 Henriot .......................................................................................................................... 19 Paul Herard ................................................................................................................... 20 Champagne Jacquart...................................................................................................... 20 Pierre Jamain ................................................................................................................. 20 Jean Philippe Moulin .................................................................................................. 21 Jules Camuset .............................................................................................................. 21 Champagne Lagache ..................................................................................................... 21 Pascal Lallemont Champagne ........................................................................................ 22 Lanson .......................................................................................................................... 22 Laurent-Perrier .............................................................................................................. 22 Lèclerc- Mondet ............................................................................................................ 23 Champagne Legras ........................................................................................................ 24 Champagne Lenoble ...................................................................................................... 24 Lombard et Cie.............................................................................................................. 25 Jacques Lorent............................................................................................................... 25 Louis Boyier.................................................................................................................. 25 Louis Roederer .............................................................................................................. 25 De Malherbe.................................................................................................................. 26 Marguet ......................................................................................................................... 26 3 Master of Wine: Derek Smedley

Master of Wine: Derek Smedley

August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE Moët et Chandon ........................................................................................................... 27 Champagne Montaubret Brut NV .................................................................................. 28

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012 Champagne Houses A - M

Date & place of tasting shown in italics Growers / Wineries are in alphabetical order with area underneath

Ariston Père et Fils Brouillet Aspasie Brut Rosé NV 95 Pinot Noir 45% Pinot Meunier 45% Red Wine 15% Tasted at the IWC Taste of Gold Lords June 2012 The nose is light fragrant with a red fruited mix of redcurrant and wild strawberries. There is a sweeter feel on the mid palate hints of quince with the freshness of the fruit giving a lovely crispness on the finish. Ayala Ay Now owned by Bollinger Brut Majeur NV 91 Tasted at Mercers’ Hall June 2011 With Pinot Noir the dominant grape it is not surprising that the nose is quite rich. Pineapple flesh is there on the palate backed and refreshed by crisper greengage and lime. The weight of flavour is there on the back palate and although the dosage is quite low the finish has some sweetness. Barons de Rothschild Reims Brut NV 91 Tasted in Bordeaux September 2015 The nose is light, fragrant and fresh and the start of the palate crisp with a strong citrus character. A touch of sweetness in the middle ripe apple but the back palate is lean, steely with mineral and fresh fruits.

Albert Beerens Bar-Sur-Aube

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Master of Wine: Derek Smedley

August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE Brut Réserve NV 86 Tasted at the Mansion House July 2010 It is rather hard on the nose and the firmness tends to hold back fruit on the palate. Fresh apple fruit is there on the mid palate but towards the back the citric acidity takes over shortening the finish. Besserat de Bellefon Epernay Brut NV 89 Tasted at the Guildhall July 2014 The nose is rich and the palate quite sweet mid depth of flavour. Under the fleshy fruit lime and apple refresh and lighten but it is fuller in the middle with sweet fruit rich flavours a touch heavy and lacking freshness. Billecart-Salmon Mareuil-sur-Ay Brut Réserve NV (out of magnum) 91 Tasted in Champagne July 2011 The fruit on the nose is rich and sweet and this weight of flavour is very much in evidence on the start of the palate. The mid palate has a balancing freshness but the richness of flavour is there at the back. Rosé Brut NV 91 Tasted in Champagne July 2011 Salmon pink well describes the colour. It is light fragrant red fruited with an attractive mix of cherries and raspberries. The back palate is quite light but appealingly fresh. H Blin Vincelles Brut NV 87 Tasted at Guildhall January 2013 The nose has fair depth but the palate is quite hard and lacking any fruit sweetness. The finish has a hint of pear drops. Rosé NV Pinot Meunier Tasted at the IWC Taste of Gold Lords June 2012

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012 The nose has the richness of red cherry and strawberry and although the palate starts very full bodied lots of dried fruits there is freshness at the back that brings out a cinnamon spiciness on the finish. Champagne Bollinger Ay Special Cuvée NV (from magnum) Pinot Noir 60% Chardonnay 25% Pinot Meunier 15% Tasted at Innholders’ Hall December 2010 90 The nose has lots of fruit all feeling quite ripe. The fruit on the palate is rich quite fleshy although backing it is some fresher lime and apple. It does though seem over mature with a nutty character coming through at the back rather spoiling the freshness and fruit flavours. Tasted in Champagne July 2011 92 The richness of pineapple, peach and roasted pears pack out the nose and give a fleshy start to the palate. The powerful flavours are underpinned by freshness lots of lovely grapefruit with the satisfying richness filling out the back palate. Rosé NV 91 Pinot Noir 62% Chardonnay 24% Pinot Meunier 14% Tasted in Champagne July 2011 About 5% of red wine is added giving an attractive salmon pink colour. Red cherry, raspberry and strawberry all intermingle on the palate this fruit salad mix refreshed by the underlying gooseberry. The back palate and finish are fresh fruited with long lingering flavours. La Grande Année Rosé 2002 93 2011-16 Pinot Noir 62% Chardonnay 38% Tasted in Champagne July 2011 The base wines come only from Grand and 1er Cru sites ensuring a greater intensity of flavour. The nose is deep profound full of spicy red fruits and this fruit mix is there on the palate. Behind the fruit is a nutty character with almonds and hazel nuts adding to the complexity. The depth of fruit giving richness towards the back but there is still enough freshness to ensure elegance. R D 1996 96 2011-20 Tasted at the Mentzdorff tasting September 2011 The nose is powerful and rich full of roasted nuts backed by a lovely mix of fruits. The palate has lots of complexity layers of flavour, savoury and toasty with richness in the middle some nice sweet fruit yet behind is freshness that gives a lovely elegant feel to the finish. 1996 is a great vintage comparable with 1928 Vieilles Vignes Françaises 2002 Tasted at the Mentzdorff tasting September 2011

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2011-24

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August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE This is a very special wine coming from the pre-phylloxera vines in the walled plot near the main buildings. There is a lot happening on the nose a lovely mix of fruits rich peach backed by some fresher apple. The slightly savoury character on the mid palate is backed by lots of fruit a powerful mix of flavours all nicely balanced and refreshed by apple and grapefruit. It seems in total harmony with richness and depth yet freshness and with flavours that last well that linger on the long finish. La Grande Année 2002 93 2011-18 Pinot Noir 65% Chardonnay 35% Tasted in Champagne July 2011 The richness of the year fills out the nose with grilled toast and a hint of hazel nuts behind the fruit. The palate is rich, profound with a lovely complex mix of flavours. Towards the back some citrus and apple push through giving a lovely brightness on the finish. Bruno Paillard Reims Brut Première Cuvée NV 92 Tasted at the Guildhall July 2014 The nose has depth of flavour greengage, hints of red fruits raspberry and redcurrant and the start of the palate is citrus driven. Fuller in the middle with rich fruit and toasted bread harmony and balance. The finish is light long and fresh fruited.

Canard-Duchene Ludes Cuvée “Leonie” Brut NV 89 Tasted at the Guildhall September 2010 Tasted at the Guildhall July 2011 Tasted at the Guildhall January 2013 The nose is quite rich and this depth of fruit is in evidence on the palate. The richness of the mid palate is balanced by the underlying freshness which gives fragrance and finesse on the finish. De Castellane Epernay Croix Rouge St Andre Brut NV 87 Tasted at the Mansion House July 2010 The nose has nice fruit and this weight of fruit is there at the start of the palate. It is lighter in the middle, fresher towards the back and just lacks depth of flavour on the finish.

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012 Champagne de Castelnau Reims Brut Reserve NV 90 Tasted at the Guildhall July 2014 Full on the nose the palate starts with depth richness of fruit. Fresh more of a citrus character on the mid palate there is a nutty hint towards the back with nice citrus freshness on the finish.

Charles Heidsieck Reims Brut Reserve NV 93 Tasted in the Guildhall July 2012 Tasted at the Guildhall January 2013 There is a lot of rich fruit on the nose and a depth of flavour on the palate. Layers of fruit give complexity the richness balanced by some underlying lime. The depth of flavour fills out the back palate yet there is freshness at the back giving an attractive elegance. Champagne Charles-Henry Avise Grande Réserve Brut NV 87 Tasted in Lilley November 2013 The nose is fresh citrusy and the start of the palate is quite light and crisp. There is more weight and depth in the middle a touch of tropic fruit and some ripe pear. The citrus takes over though towards the back leaving the finish racy and limey.

Michel Collard Vertus White Wines Vertus Chardonnay 2006 90 2011-13 Côteaux Champenoise Tasted in Champagne July 2011 The vineyards around Vertus tend to produce fresh greengage and apple flavours in the Chardonnay and this is no exception. The freshness gives brightness to the nose and the start of the palate but the middle has more richness more depth with a good weight of fruit on the finish.

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Master of Wine: Derek Smedley

August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE Jean Comyn Champagne Mont-Saint-Père Based in the Marne Valley this family owned Champagne House has been producing top quality wines for some 40 years. In 1997 Emmanuel Comyn (the third generation) took the reins ensuring that the quality is as good as ever. Harmonie Brut NV 91 Chardonnay 35% Pinot Noir 12 % Pinot Meunier 53% Tasted in London May 2009 Very floral on the nose with hints of toasted brioche, the crispness found on the nose is there at the start of the palate. Sweeter greengage fills out the mid palate with towards the finish the floral freshness of lime. Harmonie Rosé NV 92 Chardonnay 35% Pinot Noir 14% Pinot Meunier 51% (13% Pinot vinified as red) Tasted in London December 2009 There is a very attractive red fruit mix on the nose, fresh raspberry with fuller strawberry both backed by hints of bramble. The palate has lovely sweet fruit well balanced by raspberry and redcurrant ensuring that the long finish is refreshing. Harmonie Chardonnay NV 92 Chardonnay 100% Tasted in London May 2009 The nose has richness yet lots of racy fragrances. On the palate greengage is much in evidence with more fragrant fresh apple coming through lifting the flavours. The long finish has an attractive elegant freshness. Symphonie 2002 92 2008-14 Chardonnay 61% Pinot Noir 23% Pinot Meunier 16% Tasted in London May 2009 There is a complex mix of flavours on the nose and on the palate. Creamy sweetness backed by toasted brioche that overlays fresh apple and greengage. It has excellent depth, a nutty richness towards the back refreshed by apple acidity. Opus Blanc de Blancs 2004 93 2010-17 Chardonnay 100% Tasted in Lilley March 2010 The nose is packed with rich apricot and pineapple. This mix of flavours is very much in evidence on the palate spiced up by the hints of almonds. It is so succulent and rich yet beautifully balanced by apple and lime adding complexity and refreshing the back palate. Opus Blanc de Blancs 2002 Chardonnay 100%

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2007-14

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012 Tasted in Champagne October 2009 The nose is creamy and sweet, greengage enriched by a touch of vanilla and toasted brioche. There is a lot happening on the palate rich sweet fruit refreshed and lifted by fresh lime, flavours that linger on the long finish. Opus Blanc de Blancs 2000 91 2005-14 Chardonnay 100% Tasted in Champagne October 2009 Although the fruit feels ripe and there is the richness of toasted brioche the apple freshness is very evident giving it a slightly lighter racy feel. Different flavours jockey for position on the palate ensuring complexity and there is real fruit power on the finish. Opus Blanc de Blancs 1999 93 2005-14 Chardonnay 100% Tasted in Champagne October 2009 There is a great deal happening on the nose, apricot fruit, toasted brioche underpinned by fresh apple and pear. The richness of the fruit gives sweetness in the middle but behind this is citrus freshness and slate minerals that ensure length and elegance. Opus Blanc de Blancs 1998 92 2004-11 Chardonnay 100% Tasted in Champagne October 2009 There are hints of maturity but they add complexity rather than detracting from the fruit freshness. The sweetness of apricot and peach fills out the mid palate with lime and apple lifting the fruit and giving a racier feel to the finish. Maison Dauby Ay Carte d’Or NV 87 Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 The nose is light and fresh. There are some sweeter flavours on the palate more melon and peach but towards the back the acidity cuts in giving a hard edge and a lack of flesh on the finish. Grand Reserve 1er Cru NV 87 Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 The acidity that shows on both nose and palate gives an underlying crispness to both but also a rather hard character. There is a lack of fruit on the mid palate, not much complexity and firmness on the back palate that tends to overrides any sweetness that lies underneath. Millésime 2005 Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010

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August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE The nose has character with hazel nuts underpinning the peachy fruit. The mid palate has a weight of fruit with nice layers of flavour but it tends to lack fruit intensity towards the back and the citrus that is in evidence hardens and shortens the finish. Champagne Delamotte Le Mesnil Sur Oger Champagne Delamotte Brut NV 89 Tasted in Beaune June 2011 It is light quite fresh with some sweeter fruit on the mid palate. The flavours last quite well towards the back but the finish tends to be quite short.

Descombes Brut NV 88 Tasted at the Carlton Club February 2011 There is a lovely freshness about the nose and this is very much in evidence on the start of the palate. Sweeter fruit gives some weight in the middle with the touch of apple that shows at the back refreshing the finish. Champagne Deutz Ay Brut Classic NV 92 Tasted in Champagne July 2011 The nose is rich full of fruit and this power of flavour is there on the start of the palate. Underlying freshness balances but the rich flavours pack out the back palate. Champagne Devaux Bar Sur Seine Grande Reserve Brut NV 92 Tasted at the Guildhall January 2013 The nose has a flinty crispness and although the palate is quite taught with lovely mid acidity there is some rich greengage underneath. Towards the back there is nice sweet fruit but the finish is attractively fresh and chalky. Jean-Paul Deville Verzy Brut NV

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012 Tasted at the Mansion House March 2011 There is a lot of sweet fruit on the nose all a bit fat. Full bodied flavours give richness on the mid palate and then towards the back the acidity shows through, just slightly green.

Drappier Urville Aube Brut Carte d’Or NV 90 Tasted at Guildhall January 2013 The nose has lime freshness with apple and grapefruit on the palate. Sweet fruit fills out the mid palate the richness balanced by the fresher crisper fruit that comes through towards the back. Etienne Dumont Epernay Brut NV 87 Tasted in Lilley January 2011 Pineapple features on the nose its richness backed by fresher more citrus flavours. The palate has some sweetness quite rich fruit but then the citrus takes over giving a fresh rather hard character on the back palate. R Dumont & Fils Champignol-Lez-Mondeville Champagne Brut Tradition Brut NV 89 Tasted in Lilley May 2010 The first impression on the nose is one of nuttiness but behind is fresher greengage giving it a crisper feel. The palate starts with freshness but fruit richness lends weight to the middle and there is more of a toasty brioche character towards the back. Brut Vintage 2004 90 Tasted in Lilley May 2010 There is an attractive weight of flavour on the nose, ripe fleshy pineapple backed by brioche richness. The sweetness is underpinned by fresher more citrus flavours, the layers of flavour ensuring complexity. Fleshy fruit enriches the back palate. Duval Leroy Vertus Brut NV Tasted at the Guildhall September 2010

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August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE There is a lovely sweetness on the nose quite light but very fragrant. Greengage is in evidence on the palate giving richness in the middle and a nice weight of flavour towards the back. The fruit lasts well on the finish. Fleur de Champagne 1er Cru Brut NV 92 Tasted at the Guildhall September 2010 The depth of fruit fills out the nose and gives richness on the palate. In the middle there is lots of fruit the sweetness nicely balanced by the underlying freshness. There is lots of flavour showing on the long finish.

Édouard Brun Ay Brut NV 91 Tasted at Guildhall January 2013 The nose is attractive with lime freshness and the start of the palate has a mineral flintiness. Slightly sweeter fruit comes through on the mid palate but the finish is vibrant racy and fresh fruited. Eric Rodez Ambonnay Blanc de Noirs Brut NV 92 Tasted in Lilley May 2015 The nose has a peachy apricot richness and the palate is nutty and toasty. Behind the rich fruit citrus and apple refresh the back palate lighter but it fills out on the finish with a toasty apricot richness.

Nicholas Feuillatte Epernay Brut NV 82 Tasted at the Guildhall January 2013 The crisp apple on the nose gives it a slightly hard character. The freshness on the palate comes from green apples with little sweetness showing. The finish is hard and tight.

Fluteau Champagne Aube Cuvée Reserve NV

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012 Tasted at Vintners’ Hall June 2010 It feels very sweet fruited with quite a lot of richness on the nose. The entry is sweet ripe but there is a crisper feel in the middle and this freshness tends to show as a green hardness on the finish. Blanc de Noirs NV 88 Tasted at Vintners’ Hall June 2010 It is rich with a biscuity character on the nose. The palate starts with freshness but richer fleshier pineapple is very much in evidence in the middle leaving the finish quite full and fat. Vintage 2004 Cuvée Symboise 87 2010-15 Tasted at Vintners’ Hall June 2010 The nose is quite fat and this fleshy character is there on the palate. It feels quite soft rather lacking in mid acidity and there is no crispness on the finish. Champagne Forget Brimont Craon de Ludes 1er Cru Brut NV 89 Tasted at the Carlton Club February 2011 Tasted at the Guildhall January 2013 The nose is full of sweet fruit and this is in evidence on the palate giving a richer feel in the middle. Fresh apple and lime underpin balancing and giving crispness on the finish. Rosé 1er Cru NV 91 Pinot Noir 40 % Pinot Meunier 40 % Chardonnay 20% Tasted in Champagne July 2011 The nose is fresh fragrant very raspberry dominated and this red fruit character gives freshness on the palate. Towards the back there is an attractive mix of flavours with slightly richer blackcurrant refreshed by raspberry and redcurrant. Vintage 2002 91 Pinot Noir 50 % Chardonnay 50% Tasted in Champagne July 2011 The nose has the richness one expects from wines coming from 1er Cru sites. The palate has depth and concentration a touch of brioche all quite Pinot Noir with underpinning a mix of pineapple and greengage. The back palate has depth of flavour but also an appealing freshness. Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru NV Chardonnay 100% Tasted in Champagne July 2011

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August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE This Montagne de Reims Chardonnay is fresh fruited with lots of white flowers, steely and packed with minerals. The fresh fruit is backed by richer flavours that give more depth and weight on the mid palate and although the finish is rich there is underlying apple freshness. Champagne Fresne Ducret Ville-Dommange Brut Origine NV 90 There is a mix of lime and lemon the nose fresh and bright the palate richer with breadth of flavour. The mid peachiness is balanced by tangerine, sweetness yet freshness the flavours lasting well on the finish.

Froment-Griffon Sermiers Champagne Brut Tradition Brut NV 86 Tasted in Lilley May 2010 The nose is crisp very lime and apple dominated. The acidity seems high on the palate giving hardness to the start of the palate and tending to over dominate the fruit. The mid palate is a touch hollow and although slightly sweeter fruit does come through towards the back it lacks weight of flavour. Grande Réserve Brut NV 87 Tasted in Lilley May 2010 The nose has quite a good rich brioche character but the palate is masked by acidity. There is some underlying greengage and apple with just a hint of toast but not quite enough to win through against the dominating crispness. Rosé Brut NV 86 Tasted in Lilley May 2010 The nose has the freshness of red fruits and they are there on the palate. Rich ripe strawberry takes over fleshing out the mid palate but there is not enough freshness to balance the fleshiness, lift the flavours and give some subtlety. Privilege Brut 2004 85 Tasted in Lilley May 2010 The nose has a heavy toasty character rather apricot fruited. There is some freshness at the start of the palate but the brioche breadiness takes over rather tending to dominate the fruit. The finish is heavy a touch earthy and lacking in freshness. Cuvée Sélection Brut NV Tasted in Lilley May 2010

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012 The nose is very crisp rather green fruited. There is more sweetness on the palate with richer greengage backed by quite toasty oak. The acidity tends to take over again giving a hard rather dry feel on the back palate. It seems to be a bit lacking in charm. Demi-Sec Tradition 85 Tasted in Lilley May 2010 The nose is fat and sweet and this is mirrored on the palate. The sugar seems to dominate and there appears to be little fruit showing underneath. It has little finesse and no length what fruit there is dies quite fast leaving sweetness and little else. Gardet Chigny-les-Roses Brut Réserve NV 89 Tasted at Guildhall January 2013 The nose is fresh and the start of the palate starts with apple and lime. Greengage gives richness in the middle and the sweet fruit gives a lovely depth of flavour on the finish. Gosset Ay Brut Excellence NV 91 Chardonnay 30% Pinot Noir 49% Pinot Meunier 19% Tasted at Leathersellers November 2010 The nose has sweetness which gives pineapple richness. Underpinning this rich fruit is citric freshness that adds a racy quality but towards the back the richness is there filling out the finish. Grand Réserve Brut NV 89 Chardonnay 43% Pinot Noir 42% Pinot Meunier 15% Tasted at Leathersellers November 2010 It is very rich a mass of apricot and pineapple on both nose and palate. There is not enough acidity to balance the fleshy lushness leaving the finish rather bland.

Tasted in Bordeaux May 2013 92 The nose is full of fruit and the palate has depth and richness of flavour. There is an underlying freshness that lifts the flavours and brings out an oak spiciness yet the finish has the richness of ripe melon. Gosset Grand Millesime 2004 89 2015-20 Tasted in Mercers’ Hall October 2015 The nose has depth of fruit and the start of the palate is sweet but high mid acidity in the middle gives a hard character and tightness on the finish.

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Master of Wine: Derek Smedley

August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE Gosset-Brabant Ay Tradition 1er Cru NV 92 Pinot Noir 70% Chardonnay 30% Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 The nose is packed with fleshy ripe fruit and this weight of flavour enriches the start of the palate. The mix of flavours gives lots of complexity, apricot the richness whilst the underlying apple the freshness. It all feels in total harmony. Réserve Grand Cru NV 92 Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 There is a racy freshness about the nose but behind is a good weight of fruit. The palate mirrors the nose light and fragrant at the start sweeter and rich fruited in the middle. The layers of fruit give complexity with the freshness giving the back palate both elegance and length. Cuvée Gabriel 2002 93 2009-13 Tasted at the Edward Parker tasting Vintners’ Hall November 2010 There is a very attractive richness of fruit on both nose and palate. The mix of greengage and melon is refreshed by apple and citrus with towards the back the power of the sweet fruit tending to take over but there is enough freshness to balance. The finish has the hazel nut character of maturity adding a lovely complexity. Brut 1er Cru Rosé 91 Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 Strawberry richness is backed by raspberry freshness a mix of flavours that gives lots of complexity. The mid palate is rich fleshy but behind is freshness that lifts the fruit and lengthens the flavours. Red Wines Grand Cru Ay Rouge 89 2010-15 Côteaux Champemoise Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 It appears to be very black fruit dominated but behind all of the power is fresh red cherry. The mid palate has richness but the overall feel is of fresh red fruits giving a fragrant charm

H Goutorbe Ay Tradition NV Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012 The nose has an attractive weight of fruit the sweetness giving richness. The flesh on the nose is in evidence on the palate the apricot richness vying with white peach for dominance. There is some underlying acidity but a lovely sweet fruited richness on the finish. Cuvée Prestige 1er Cru NV 91 Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 The ripeness of the fruit gives an attractive richness on the nose. Sweet fruit gives flesh, lots of powerful flavours but all this ripe fleshy power is well balanced by freshness that emphasises the attractive flavour mix on the finish. Heidseick & Co Monopole Epernay Gold Top Brut 2004 92 Tasted at Innholders’ Hall December 2010 There is a lovely richness to the fruit that is there on the nose and this fleshiness gives weight of flavour on the mid palate. The sweetness is nicely balanced by freshness, slightly lighter in the middle but the fruit richness is there on the back palate filling out the finish. Champagne Hennequin Père et Fils Ventueil Carte d’Or Brut NV 92 Pinot Noir 40% Chardonnay 30% Pinot Meunier 30% Tasted in Bradley Staffordshire June 2014 The fruit is rich the nose has depth and the palate a mix of yellow peaches, apricots and pears. The full bodied richness the depth of flavour is underpinned by crisp apple the freshness lifting the flavours on the back palate. Henriot Reims Blanc de Blancs NV 94 Chardonnay Tasted at the IWC Taste of Gold Lords June 2012 The nose is light fragrant and crisp. Sweeter greengage fills out the mid palate layers of flavour lots of complexity and towards the back cut apple surfaces refreshing the finish. Brut Vintage 2003 Chardonnay Tasted at the IWC Taste of Gold Lords June 2012

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August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE There are a lot of powerful flavours on the nose and rich fruits fill out the start of the palate. Layers of flavour give complexity with the richness underpinned by freshness. The nutty hints towards the back all add to the complexity. Cuvée des Enchanteleurs 1998 95 2015-22 Tasted at the Tim Stanley-Clarke Dinner Mossimans March 2015 There is a toasty richness to the nose the palate full with ripe apple and candied peel, honeyed exotic and full of flavour. Fresher at the back a citrus mix the finish though has depth of fruit rich and satisfying. Paul Herard Aube Paul Herard Brut NV 90 Pinot Noir Chardonnay Tasted in Bordeaux November 2010 The freshness of citrus on the nose is backed by richer pineapple on the palate. There are lots of flavours intermingling towards the back with a lovely refreshing citrus twist on the finish. Tasted in Bordeaux May 2013 89

The nose is fresh the palate has an attractive mix of greengage and pineapple. There is not a great depth of fruit but freshness on the finish that lifts the flavours. Champagne Jacquart Reims Brut Tradition NV 87 Tasted at the Guildhall September 2010 There is an attractive fragrance on the nose which has all the freshness of apples. Sweeter fruit is there on the palate with some more concentrated flavours in the middle. The finish is racy and fresh but slightly hard and lacking some length. Brut Mosaique NV 88 Tasted in Beaune June 2011 Tasted at the Guildhall January 2013 The nose is rich and fat and there is a lot of sweet fruit on the palate. Despite the richness at the start the finish is slightly hard and short. Pierre Jamain La Celle Sous Chantemerle La Celle-Sous-Chantemerle Brut NV

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012 Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 The peach and lime that feature are overlaid but lovely floral fragrances. The sweetness of the fruit gives weight at the start all nicely balanced by mid lime and apple freshness. The mix of flavours give character and towards the back there is sweet fruit filling out the finish. Cuvée Caroline NV 92 Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 There is a very attractive fragrance about the nose under which is sweet fruit. The mix of flavours gives lots of complexity apricot richness with lighter elderflower fragrances. The freshness towards the back helps to emphasise the fruit charm and lengthens the back palate. Blanc de Blanc Millésime 2004 92 Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 It has all the fresh fragrant charm of the Chardonnay grape on both nose and palate. The racy freshness is balanced by richer greengage and melon that give weight to the mid palate and enrich the finish.

Jean Philippe Moulin Vertus Brut NV 88 The nose is quite sweet the start of the palate has pear richness with lighter and fresher fruit on the mid palate. Straightforward and easy it just lacks a little complexity and excitement.

Jules Camuset Epernay Brut NV 91 The nose is quite rich with sweet fruit on the start of the palate. Under the richness citrus refreshes and although there is slightly more depth on the back palate the finish is light, fresh fruited, stylish.

Champagne Lagache Pierry Lagache NV Pierry 89 Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 There is a nice weight of fruit showing on the nose and an apricot richness is there at the start of the palate. Behind the sweet fruit is citric and apple freshness that gives a crispness quality in the middle and towards the back.

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Master of Wine: Derek Smedley

August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE

Prestige des Consorts Grand Cru 2005 88 Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 There is a good weight of fruit on the nose giving some flesh to the palate. Lime apple freshness is very much in evidence on the mid palate and slightly overpowers the flavours on the finish. The fruit is underpinned by a hazel nut character. “Veuve Prevost” Brut 2006 87 Tasted at Edward Parker Wines London September 2010 The nose has a strong hazel nut character. There is some quite rich fruit but it is a bit dominated by the nuttiness. The palate starts sweet but the acidity tends to take over leaving the middle rather hollow and the finish quite hard. Pascal Lallemont Champagne Chamery Brut NV 88 Tasted at Vintners’ Hall June 2010 The nose is very yeasty quite crisp and slightly lacking in fruit. There is a sweeter feel to the mid palate but it does lack a bit of character and length. Cuvee de Reserve NV 87 Tasted at Vintners’ Hall June 2010 Rich fruit gives fleshiness to the nose and fatness on the palate. The greengage and apple gives mid freshness but towards the back there is a marmite character. It tends to lack length. Lanson Reims Black Label Brut NV 89 Chardonnay 35% Pinot Noir 505 Pinot Meunier 15% Tasted at Innholders’ Hall December 2010 There is a good weight of fruit on the nose all quite peachy rich and toasty. Fresher green apple and citrus flavours refresh the mid palate but there is more weight, fleshier apricot towards the back giving a richer feel on the finish.

Laurent-Perrier Tour-sur-Marne Ultra Brut NV Chardonnay 55% Pinot Noir 45 %

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012 Tasted in Champagne July 2011 Apples and limes give a very crisp feel to the nose and the palate even though there is no added sugar there is fruit sweetness on the mid palate. The finish has all the racy crisp character of the nose. Grand Siècle Cuvée Brut Grand Cru NV 89 Chardonnay Pinot Noir Tasted in Champagne July 2011 Behind the fruit on the nose is a toasty character and this brioche nuttiness features on the palate. There is some mid freshness but the finish is fat and heavy rather lacking fruit freshness.

Tasted in Bordeaux May 2013 92 The nose has sweetness of flavour and there is a fleshy richness on the palate. Under the ripe greengage and melon citrus refreshes and gives a lighter feel on the finish. Cuvée Rosé NV 90 Pinot Noir 100 % Tasted in Champagne July 2011 It is remarkably sweet fruited quite full on the nose and rich on the palate. There is some attractive fresh raspberry in the middle but the back palate is rather heavy with a touch of tannic firmness on the finish.

Vintage 1999

89

2013-15

Tasted in Bordeaux May 2013

There is some nice fresh fruit on the nose and rich flavours at the start of the palate. The mid palate is fresh quite lean but it does fill out a bit at the back. Laurent-Perrier Vintage 2002 89 2011-16 Tasted in Champagne July 2011 Tasted in Bordeaux September 2015 The nose is quite full with some rich greengage flavours. The mid and back palate is lighter slightly lacking in depth and complexity and the finish is rather short. Lèclerc- Mondet In 1952 Henri and Renée planted vines in Chassins and their champagne came on to the market in the early 1960’s. The running of the company was handed over to Christian and his wife Jacqueline but sadly at the age of 38 Christian was killed in a tragic accident. Jacqueline took on the mantle and today is ably assisted by her sons Cedric and Fabien. Tradition Brut Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier Tasted on many occasions

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Master of Wine: Derek Smedley

August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE The nose has the fragrant charm of lemon grass and orange blossom backed by citrus freshness. There are richer flavours on the palate, a touch of tropical fruit that lasts well on the finish. Grande Réserve NV 90 Pinot Noir Chardonnay Pinot Meunier Tasted in London July 2009 There is a lot of fruit showing on the nose behind it a toasty richness giving complexity. The palate is packed with creamy fruit from the Pinot whilst towards the back the raciness, freshness of Chardonnay takes over. Blanc de Blanc NV 92 Chardonnay 100% Tasted in Champagne October 2009 The freshness of greengage gives a lovely bright feel to the nose and on the palate. Fruit richness underpins the freshness filling out the mid palate and giving weight of flavour towards the back. It has an appealing complexity, richness yet racy elegance. Vintage 2000 92 Tasted in Champagne October 2009 The nose is deep and full packed with ripe apricot and a tantalizing hint of biscuits. Although the flavours are rich filling out the mid palate there is citrus and apple freshness lifting the flavours, a complex mix that linger on the finish.

Champagne Legras Chouilly Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru Chouilly NV 91 Tasted at the Guildhall July 2014 The apple and citrus mix on the nose is fresh and the start of the palate quite light. Sweet in the middle pear and greengage give more depth but the fresher fruits are there at the back the finish lighter and quite long. Champagne Lenoble Damery Brut Intense NV 90 Tasted at the Mansion House December 2012 Tasted at the Guildhall January 2013 The nose has a nice depth of fruit and the start of the palate has some rich flavours quite peachy. The mid palate is fresher some nice crisp apple and this fresher feel carries on towards the back.

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012

Lombard et Cie Epernay Champagne de Malherbe 86 Tasted at Lincoln’s Inn May 2011 There is an earthy quality about the nose that tends to overshadow the fruit. The mid palate is sweet but lacking in fruit richness. Jacques Lorent Epernay Brut NV 90 Tasted at Mercers June 2010 It feels quite sweet with flesh on both nose and palate but behind the sweet fruit is freshness, crisp citrus that refreshes the back palate. Louis Boyier Vincelles Brut NV 85 Tasted at Guildhall January 2013 The nose is sticky sweet and the start of the palate rich fruited but in the middle there is a bitter feel green apple and this leaves the finish hard and short. Louis Roederer Reims Brut Première NV 92 Tasted at the Guildhall September 2010 Tasted at the Leathersellers October 2014 Although there is a good weight of fruit on the nose the start of the palate is quite light yet there are richer flavours towards the back more greengage in character. The finish is long and elegant fragrant yet behind the freshness there is sweet fruit an underlying richness. Vintage 2004 89 2010-15 Tasted at Mercers’ Hall December 2010 There is a rather earthy character on the nose and this tends to show through again on the back palate. Behind it is a nice mix of fruits but they tend to be overtaken by mid palate firmness. It seems rather flat lacking real sparkle. Vintage 2008

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2017-24

Master of Wine: Derek Smedley

August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE Tasted in Mercers’ Hall October 2015 The nose is firm the start of the palate tight very youthful with a slight lack of mid generosity and although sweet fruit shows at the back it closes down on the finish quite tight at the moment. Theophile Brut NV 87 Tasted at the Guildhall July 2014 The nose is heavy the start of the palate full quite sweet lacking in charm and freshness. Towards the back it feels lighter but the finish is over rich and over sweet. De Malherbe Epernay Grande Réserve Brut NV 87 Tasted at Lincoln’s Inn April 2013 The nose is rich with ripe fruit and the palate is toasty with a brioche character. There is a fresher feel towards the back but the finish is fleshy and heavy. Marguet Ambonnay Blanc de Noirs Brut NV 89 Tasted at the WSDC Dinner Painters’ Hall September 2010 The mix of fruits is quite rich on the nose and gives weight to the palate. The fleshiness of the fruit is well supported by some fresher apple with towards the back the richness dominating fleshing out the finish. Maison Charles Mignon Epernay Premium Réserve Brut NV 95 Pinot Noir 60% Chardonnay 20% Pinot Meunier 20% Tasted at the IWC Taste of Gold June 2013 It is very fresh on the nose and quite light on the start of the palate. The mix of fruits on the mid palate gives some complexity with apple and citrus giving a crunchy freshness at the back. Premium Reserve Brut 1er Cru NV 84 Pinot Noir 75% Chardonnay 25% Tasted at the IWC Taste of Gold June 2013 The nose is rich full of sweet fruit but the palate is lean fresh slightly lacking in complexity of flavour. The finish has mineral freshness light and slightly short.

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CHAMPAGNE August 01, 2012

Moët et Chandon Epernay Imperial NV 85 Tasted at the IWC Taste of Gold June 2013 There is a fresh feel to the nose and the start of the palate is bright lacking a bit of depth. Lime and lemon at the back are fresh just a touch too acidic and the finish is hard. Grand Vintage 1992 96 2013-19 Tasted at the IWC Taste of Gold June 2013 There is a nutty richness on the nose and rich sweet bready flavours on the palate. Layers of fruit rich greengage and fresh lime give complexity with an amazing freshness showing on the long finish. Grand Vintage 1993 95 2013-19 Tasted at the IWC Taste of Gold June 2013 The nose has richness of flavour a mix of ripe greengage and fresh apple lots of complexity. The mid palate is rich sweet fruited toasty and although there is a fresh feel on the back palate the finish is rich fruited. Grand Vintage 2004 95 2015-25 Tasted at the IWC Taste of Gold June 2013 The nose has a racy freshness a lovely mix of lime and apple and although the start of the palate is crisp it fills out in the middle with lots of brioche and greengage. The back palate is full of flavour with an appealing fresh feel to the finish. Dom Perignon 1999 93 2011-17 Tasted in Bolton Abbey Yorkshire October 2010 The nose is packed with lots of ripe fruit. On the palate pineapple and melon give richness underpinned and refreshed by apple. The layers of flavour give complexity the sweetness of the fruit ensures richness whilst the freshness gives an elegant feel to the back palate. Dom Perignon 2000 94 2011-16 Tasted in Bolton Abbey Yorkshire October 2010 Initially it seems to lack depth of fruit, the nose is a bit closed but with air it soon opens up to give a rich mix of flavours. There is a lot happening on the palate some ripe peach and melon backed by freshness from the hints of citrus. There is a lovely weight of flavour on the back palate with more to show. Dom Perignon 2002 Tasted in Bordeaux April 2012

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94

2012-22

Master of Wine: Derek Smedley

August 01, 2012 CHAMPAGNE The nose is remarkably fresh with a youthful feel and the freshness greengage and apple is there at the start of the palate. The mid palate fills out with lots of rich fruit all backed by nutty toasty flavours. There is lots of lovely complexity with a deep savoury rich finish.

Champagne Montaubret Brut NV La Côte des Bar Champagne Montaubret Brut NV 91 Tasted in Lilley August 2015 Under the floral fragrances on the nose there is depth of fruit and the start of the palate has the honeyed apricot richness typical of Pinot Noir. Fresher in the middle the richness balanced by lime and apple the fresh flavours lingering on the finish. An excellent apéritif style but there is enough depth of flavour to be enjoyable with the meal.

Derek Smedley MW

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