Camino de Santiago – ‘Walking the Way’
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The Camino Beyond Santiago Decline & Revival Tour Options FAQ Mini-Competition
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THE CAMINO •What is the Camino? •Where is the Camino? •History •Legends •Passport – ‘La Compostela’
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Camino de Santiago - ‘Way of St James’
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One of Europe’s Oldest Walking Trails
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Pilgrims have travelled to Santiago in Spain to visit the burial place of Apostle Saint James spanning 3 millennium
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Christianity has 3 important cities: • Rome / Bethlehem / Camino de Santiago
• Camino - most exciting – cross Pyrenees, at the end receive
Compostela – guarantee that would halve their time in purgatory • During Middle Ages it was Christendom’s most popular pilgrimage
Statue of St James at Cathedral of Santiago
Santiago de Compostela
FRANCE
SPAIN
Codex Calixtinus – ‘World’s first travel book’ – Written 1130 Only a few copies of the Codex
1 copy was stolen from Santiago Cathedral last year Rumours are it was an inside job!
Pilgrims of yesteryear left from their home Meet at the church parish Move to larger population centres
Meet at 4 key starting points in France Paris/Vezelay/Le Puy - converged at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port ▪ Mainly Dutch, German & Italian pilgrims Arles - crossed the mountain range in Somport ▪ Mainly Italian and southern German pilgrims
Galicia is located in the north-west of Spain
Towns on Galician borders still approx. 150 km to Santiago
The ‘Ways’ of St James
Within Galicia, Santiago can be reached by: The French Way The Primitive Way The Northern Way The South Eastern Way The English Way
Outside Galicia pilgrims also travelled from southern Spain
The Reconquest of Spain from the Moors gradually progressed and pilgrims after being freed from the Muslim Invaders travelled to Santiago to give thanks to the Apostle
Old Roman roads from Seville & Granada Via de la Plata (The Silver Way) – Seville Mozarabe – Granada
Portugal Portugese Way Portugese Coastal Way
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Remains of St James arrived in Galicia in the 1st Century
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After Christ’s crucifixion James the Apostle was given Spain as his mission • Lived there for 7 years with little success • Returned to Jerusalem & put to the sword by Herod Agrippa in AD44 • Became first of Christ’s apostles to be martyred.
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His disciples returned his body to Spain by boat to Iria Flavia – approx 30km walk to Santiago
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Burial place became forgotten after invasions / diversions
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During the early 9th Century hermit Paio saw flickering lights over Libredon forest (shower of stars) and later exhumed the bones of ‘Saint James’
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Santiago de Compostela (‘James of the Field of Stars’) • Or was it? Compostela was also the Roman word for ‘Cemetery’ –
Which is your guess? •
Cathedral built by orders of King Alphonso II and bones kept
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30 years later St James seen on a white horse at the battle of Logrono • Swift victory against the Moors reunited Christian hope
The Camino became important as a pilgrimage site to St James tomb around the 10th and 11th Centuries but the Camino was already there beforehand Atonement for sin or a fixed penalty for certain sins
Believed to be a Pre-Roman “Pagan" culture, possibly linked to seeing the Atlantic ocean
Some think there was a “Stonehenge” like site
The Cathedral was built on that site using some of the stones
Protectors of the Pilgrims – Knights Templar Codex: ‘Murderous Basques; the robbers of Navarra who might beat
and ride them like beasts before killing them; and Castile the people are evil and vicious’ Was the violence exaggerated? Whatever the case violence did exist Knights Templar, principally of the Order of Santiago recognised by Pope Alexander III in 1175 to combat this violence The Knights Templar patrolled the Camino, providing protection, places of hospitality, healing and worship, as well as a banking system that became one source of their fabled wealth They too fell though.. in 1312
Knights Templar Castle
Hospitals were established along the ‘Way’ Many pilgrims would not complete the journey – ill or in search of cures Thousands also fell and large cemetery in Roncesvalles
Sick pilgrims reached Leon or Villafranco del Bierzo – ‘Pardon Doors’ Genuinely could not go on received same indulgences as if you had
reached Santiago
Roncesvalles Cemetery – ‘Charlemagnes Silo’ Covered cemetery but you can see the old bones – creepy! Exhumed bones show many pilgrims were from Central Europe
(Switzerland, Austria, Czech Republic, etc) If you died in Roncesvalles you were given the same indulgences of reaching Santiago
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When St James Day (25 July) falls on a Sunday – HOLY YEAR • Pilgrims due time in Purgatory would be expunged entirely
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Last Holy Years were 1982, 1993, 1999, 2004 & 2010 • 6, 5, 6 and 11 year cycle • Next during 2021!
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Average Pilgrims arriving to Santiago • During summer period (2011) – 1000 a day • During summer period & Holy Year – 3000+ a day
Botafumeiro - Largest swinging ‘censer’ in the world Used on religious days including all Pilgrim Masses during Holy Years Attached to a pulley system & 8 red-robed servants pull the ropes and
bring it into a swinging motion Near the roof of the cathedral it reaches speeds of 80 km/h and
dispenses thick clouds of incense One explanation of this custom, which originated more than 700 years
ago is that masked the stench emanating from hundreds of unwashed pilgrims
Botafumeiro
Timeframes based on the Codex Often last months – round trip from Paris took 4 months??
From the French border – 13 days – no less than 21km per day ?? Our tours usually take just over a month from the French border!
Black death of the 14th Century
Numerous wars
Northern Europe by boat – seasickness, sinking?
‘Murderous Basques, Robbers from Navarra, ……..’
Wolves….
Some key questions arising about the St James Way
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The origin of the Scallop Shell as the Camino symbol
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If the Apostle St. James is really buried in the cathedral
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Why the Pilgrims still come to Santiago?
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Why do many pilgrims carry a stone?
Scallop Shell symbol origin is unknown: Some think it was a way of showing one made it to
the coast Some think it just helped to scoop up water and beg! But its probable the symbol goes back further in time.. it was a Roman symbol for Neptune and probably has Pre-Roman origins
It was made illegal to sell along the way
Now – 3 types of main signage for direction!
Some say the person really buried in Santiago is a popular “Heretic” who was from Galicia but became famous in Germany. He was executed by the Church because he retained too many
“Pagan” rituals He was buried back in Santiago (where he was from) and the site became a popular pilgrimage for his German followers The Church wanted to turn it into a “Christian site” and so chose to say St James was buried in Santiago.
Atonement for sin or to say thanks to the Apostle Europeans – seek out and follow the footsteps of their
ancestors “Cultural” Visit ▪ History, food & friendly environment that exists along the Way
New World - the truth of the Way! ▪ Self-discovery and time to think!
Iron Cross – Cruz de Ferro Pilgrims have long dropped stones at the “Iron Cross“ It’s the highest point on all the European camino paths (1500m)
Milestone for pilgrims Pre-Christian origins, similar to the “Stone Cairn" markers in Scotland,
Wales and Ireland. They say a priest but the iron cross there to christianize a pagan ritual! It’s still an emotional and special place for pilgrims It’s a few days walk out of Leon
The Iron Cross – Cruz de Ferro
The Pilgrim’s Passport Personal document with space for large numbers of stamps
Hotels/hostels, restaurants & churches
‘La Compostela’ is obtained in Santiago Pilgrims Office in Santiago Minimum Pilgrim Requirements:
Walking or Ride Horseback (Final 100km) Bicycle (Final 200km) Historically - Letter from your Parish
On arriving at the Cathedral of Santiago: Enter looking for the column with effigy of St James Put your hand in the grooves formed by millions of pilgrim
Tap your head gently on the figure around the corner Climb the stairs behind the alter and hug the St James statue
Visit St James tomb below the statue
Pilgrim mass each day at noon – Pilgrim nationalities read out!
Beyond Santiago
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One more route exists beyond Santiago! The extension of the Way that leads to Fisterra and Muxia
For pilgrims with the uncontrollable urge to travel to what was
considered the very end of the earth – Cape Finisterre
Finisterre (‘End of the World’)
Cape Finisterre is about a 90km walk from Santiago
It is a recent tradition for some pilgrims to burn their clothes or boots at the end of their journey at Cape Finisterre
Not encouraged - Last year a fire spread and burnt part of the peninsula
Cape Finisterre ‘Lands End’
The Camino – Decline & Revival
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The popularity of the Camino has fluctuated Sparked interest thanks to the reawakened Catholicism and the
flourishing cultures of the Middle Ages Decline when the Saints bones were removed during a Protestant English attack on the coast in the wake of the Armada (late 16 th Century) Bones returned in time for the War of Interdependence (1808-14) when the French sacked the Cathedral in Santiago but spared the remains and relics Never again retained its importance until recently
Combination of religious tourism and post-Franco Spain People began to test their own spirituality and future
Yellow Paint – Priest of O Cebreiro (150 km to Santiago) with helpers began to indicate the French Way using this cheap and necessary solution in the 1980’s
In 1987, the Camino de Santiago was named the first European Cultural Route
In 1992 John Paul II was the first Pope to visit Santiago
In 1993 it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Today - Now Galicia is full of yellow arrows!
Walking Tour Options •The Guide •Self-Guided or Guided •Camino Frances •The Experience •Favourite Places •Challenges
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Garry is a 51 year old Aussie from Young , NSW Lives in Santiago de Compostela, Spain 10 years working on the Camino He is married to a Galician lady Almost fluent in Spanish He's walked and cycled the Camino many times, including the less developed routes Has lead numerous groups and had hundreds of Self-Guided groups. He loves the north of Spain and to share stories, legends and experiences about the Camino He is a qualified walking guide, having passed the UK’s "Summer Mountain Leader" award, which allows him to take groups walking all over Europe
Published Tours: Camino Frances – ‘French Way’ But we can customise special tours as requested
Self-Guided Tours 7 to 36 days ranging from 100 km to 760 km
Guided Tours 8 to 15 days ranging from 120 km to 280 km
Tour Advantages: Side routes – Benedictine monastery, well preserved Knights tombs and
14th Century frescoes Tour provides good quality accommodation, local and friendly people! Luggage transfers if requested
Leon Cathedral - Mid 13th Century to late 16th Century - 1800 square metres of stained glass windows
Portomarin: Church of St Juan - Built 12th Century - Church and castle architecture - Moved during 1960
Wooded Valley of Barbadelo - Beautiful oak woodland
O Cebreiro - Gateway to Galicia - Prehistoric stone houses called ‘Pallozas’ - Well known throughout the whole of Europe - Church of Santa Maria – 9th Century Pre-Romanesque - Legend of the Holy Grail
Furelos Bridge - Medieval Bridge - Last Roman bridge before Santiago
Monte de Gozo - First view of the Cathedral - All down hill to Santiago
Traditionally - Religious & Spiritual Journey
Today: Adventure & Personal Challenge
Learn about rich History & Culture in rural Spain Architecture, Art & Photography
Leisure - simply take a breath of fresh air and escape the hustle and
bustle of everyday life
“Anyone who has walked it will tell you that it transforms you regardless of whether you travel with a religious spirit or not”
The Pyrenees The most difficult stage is St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles It’s a 27km stage with 1200m of elevation gain
Entering Galicia Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro 1300m altitude – climb higher to Summit of Poio
1/2 to 2/3 difficulty of The Pyrenees crossing
Weather – Northern Spain fluctuating weather
Sore feet - Sturdy worn-in hiking boots
Cramps - Usually the third day
Tour Type
Starting Point
Days
$AUS (pp)
Dinners
Guided
Leon
15
3,000
14
Sarria
8
1,600
7
St Jean
36
4,000
15
Burgos
23
2,800
10
Leon
16
2,000
7
Villafranca
11
1,500
5
Sarria
7
1,000
3
Self-Guided
July 23 to 6 August 2012 – Leon to Santiago – 280 km
July 30 to 6 August 2012 – Sarria to Santiago – 120 km
Frequently Asked Questions
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Where does the Camino de Santiago begin? • From your front door? • From all over Europe
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When does the Way Open? • It never opens or closes – over 1000 years of history!
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How many kilometres per day? • Requires an honest assessment
• Can you walk a total of 100km, 200km or 780km? • No race so it’s best to choose a sensible daily distance (20-25km a day)
• Get up early and rest in the afternoon
When is the best time to walk the Camino? From mid-November to early-March almost no-one comes April – there is still snow from St Jean to Roncesvalles
May & June – popular months July & August – this can be hot especially on the Meseta
September – popular month October – can begin raining in Galicia
May and September are definitely the most popular months!
What gear? • Good pair of hiking boots with Gore Tex when travelling in rainy
periods and they should be worn in
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