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Black Diamonds - History of Bulli District, New South Wales William A. Bayley

Follow this and additional works at: http://ro.uow.edu.au/ihspubs Recommended Citation Bayley, William A., (2002), Black Diamonds - History of Bulli District, New South Wales, Illawarra Historical Society, Wollongong, 124p. http://ro.uow.edu.au/ihspubs/5

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Black Diamonds - History of Bulli District, New South Wales Description

William A. Bayley, (2002), Black Diamonds - History of Bulli District, New South Wales, Illawarra Historical Society, Wollongong, 124p. Originally published in 1956. Republished in numerous editions up to 2002, with an index added in 1989. Publisher

Illawarra Historical Society, Wollongong, 124p

This book is available at Research Online: http://ro.uow.edu.au/ihspubs/5

BLACK DIAMONDS HISTORY OF BULL! DISTRICT N EW SOUTH WALES

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WILLIAM A. BAYLEY

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History of Bulli District '

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WILLIAM A. BAYLEY Fellow of the Royal Australian Historical Society Past President of the Illawarra Historical Society Past Principal of the Bulli Public School

"In Bulli we have a diamond mine of our own ... Black Diamonds." - "Illawarra Mercury", 28 July 1885

IL L A W A R R A H IS T O R IC A L SOCIETY INC.

2002

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS BLACK DIAMONDS D E E P g r a t i t u d e is due to a large n u m b e r of p e o p l e , o r g a n i s a t i o n s , and i n s t i t u t i o n s for a s s i s t a n c e of all kinds in b r i n g i n g t o g e t h e r the m a t e r i a l c o n t a i n e d in th is v o l u m e . The N o r t h e r n Zone C o m m i t t e e and the G r e a t e r W o l l o n g o n g C i t y Council, the C i t y Cler k, W.H. M i t c h e l l , and the N o r t h e r n Z o n e Cler k, R. S heppard, m e r i t a t r i b u t e of p r a i s e for th eir w o r k in a s s i s t i n g the c o m p i l a t i o n . The I l l a w a r r a H i s t o r i c a l S o c i e t y held f r o m it c a m e c o n s i d e r a b l e a s s i s t a n c e . m e m b e r s , its co unc il, its s e cre tar y, W. M i n t o r n , for h e l p r eceived.

its first e x h i b i t i o n in A p r i l and T h a n k s are e x t e n d e d to the S o c i e t y M i s s E. C o r n e r , and its c ur at o r ,

The p r o p r i e t o r s and e d i t o r s of the W o l l o n g o n g n e w s p a p e r s , " I l l a w a r r a D a i l y M e r c u r y " (W.S. M u s g r a v e ) and " S o u t h Coast T i m e s " (D. C o m p t o n ) have r e n d e r e d v a l u a b l e a s s i s t a n c e and e x t e n d e d the loan of fi les and p u b l i c i t y for the project. The N a t i o n a l , M i t c h e l l and P u b l i c L i b r a r i e s , t h e i r l i b r a r i a n s and s t a f f m e m b e r s , ha ve b e e n u n t i r i n g in a s s i s t i n g w i t h the s u p p l y of m a t e r i a l and q u i c k s e r v i c e so e s s e n t i a l to a stu den t w i t h so w i d e a field of r e s e a r c h to cover. E s p e c i a l thanks go to M i t c h e l l L i b r a r i a n , M i s s P. M a n d e r Jones, for c e a s e l e s s e f f o r t in a s s i s t a n c e to the author.

The Public Library of N.S.W. Photocopying Service supply many 35 mm film strips of source material from newspaper files for home projection, study and filing by the author. The service is of a high standard. G o v e r n m e n t i n s t r u m e n t a l i t i e s ha ve m a d e no small c o n t r i b u t i o n to the work. I n c l u d e d a m o n g t he m are P o s t m a s t e r G e n e r a l ' s D e p a r t m e n t (F.C. Ba rne s, P u b l i c R e l a t i o n s O f f i c e r ) , C o m m o n w e a l t h B u r e a u of C e n s u s and S t a t i s t i c s , C o m m o n w e a l t h E l e c t o r a l O f f i ce, C o m m o n w e a l t h M e t e o r o l o g i c a l B u r e a y (Sydney), C o m m o n w e a l t h N e w s and I n f o r m a t i o n B u r ea y ( C a n b e r r a ) , N.S.W. G o v e r n m e n t Pr int er , R a i l w a y s R e s e a r c h and I n f o r m a t i o n Bra nch , D e p a r t m e n t of E d u c a t i o n and li brary, D e p a r t m e n t of Mines, Lands, A g r i c u l t u r e and M a i n Roads, N.S .W. S t a t e E l e c t o r a l O f f i ce, C l e r k of L e g i s l a t i v e A s s e m b l y . O r g a n i s a t i o n s and firms a s s i s t i n g i n c lu de A u s t r a l i a n R a i l w a y H i s t o r i c a l Soc ie ty, N a t i o n a l Roads an d Mot o r i s t s ' A s s o c i a t i o n , M i l s o n ' s P hoto S e r v i c e ( S y d n e y ) , T y r r e l l ' s P t y Ltd. (Sydney), A u s t r a l i a n I r o n and S t eel L td ( W o l l o n g o n g ) , J. Hayes, M a n a g e r B u ll i C o l l i e r y , G. H i n d m a r s h , M a n a g e r A.I.S. Collieries. C i t i z e n s of the C i t y of G r e a t e r W o l l o n g o n g and e l s e w h e r e i nclude J.L.N. S o u t h e r n , J. M a t t h e w s , A. W a l d e r , Mrs E l l e n D o l l a h a n , M r s H. W i l l i a m s , W. Bew l e y , C. M a n e y , H. Gib s o n , M i s s e s M.C. and A.M. T u r n b u l l , Mi ss L.R. Fry, H a r o l d S. Fry, Mrs N. Smith, M r s V.M. Glass, A.A. Gl as s , M a r s d e n W i l l i a m s , B u l l i R o t a r y Club, Rex J a c k s o n M . L.A . for Bulli, H. R a i l i n g s , James J e r v i s F.R.A.H.S., Dr George Mackaness, O. B. E . , T. Munro, Wm Davis, J. H i g g i n s Jnr, H.H. Sneyd, E. G r i f f i t h s S n r , A. C h r y s t a l , Mrs E. Barton, G e o r g e H. Lai ng, J. P enm a n , H.T. Sc ho m b e r g . W.A.B. June

1956

History of Bulli District New South Wales

The year 1956 would have marked the golden jubilee of the Bulli Shire Council had it remained, but after 41 years of service it was combined as part of one of the greatest city councils in Australia - that of the City of Greater Wollongong. The Greater Council, fast approaching the centenary of municipal government in Wollongong, decided to mark the passing of 50 years since the inauguration of shire government in Bulli by the publication of the complete history of the Bulli district which comprises its northern zone and is one of the most popular tourist areas in New South Wales. To compile the record the council commissioned William A. Bayley F.R.A.H.S., Councillor and Life Member of the Illawarra Historical Society, author of many books on country centres and himself a resident of Bulli. The author, with the help of descendents of Bulli*s early pioneers, the national archives and Wollongong newspapers, has brought into the volume a story of a unique district between Mountain and sea. The book traces the growth of a district from a cattle run to a mining centre, and from a settlement linked by narrow bush tracks and sailing craft to the suburb of the prosperous and growing City of Wollongong.

Introduction to Fourth and Fifth Editions This edition of W . A . B a y l e y ' s B l a c k D i a m o n d s is p u b l i s h e d b y the Illawarra Historical Society with t he ki nd permission of M r s Phyllis Bayley. R e s i d e n t s of the a r e a and Illawarra h i s t o r i a n s in g e n e r a l h a v e long c a l l e d for t h i s p o p u l a r w o r k to be r e - i s s u e d , it b e i n g the o n l y c o m p r e h e n s i v e h i s t o r y of I l l a w a r r a ' s n o r t h e r n s u b u r b s so far c o m p i l e d . It r e m a i n s a f i t t i n g t e s t i m o n y to th e a u t h o r , w h o wa s both a long time resident of B u l l i , a n d a r e n o w n e d N e w S o u t h W a l e s local h i s t o r i a n . A n i n d e x to this almost c o m p i l e d by M r s V i v i e n n e t i m e w i t h t h i s e d i t i o n . It e d i t i o n as p u b l i s h e d by M r

encyclopedic work has r e c e n t l y been C a l d w e l l a n d is i n c l u d e d f o r the f i r s t m a r k s the o n l y change from the third B a y l e y in 1973.

Thanks must g o to L y n n e H u t t o n w h o r e - t y p e d t h e m a n u s c r i p t , and to the Illawarra Historical Society for providing f u n d s for publication. Michael

Orqan

August 1989 and 2002

2 3

CHAPTER 2 S E N T I N E L

S T O C K Y A R D

1815-1841 D U R I N G the first t w e n t y y e a r s of the s e t t l e m e n t p l a n t e d at S y d n e y C o v e in 1788 the h i n t e r l a n d to the foot of the Blue M o u n t a i n s w a s o c c u p i e d b y s h e e p and c a t t l e and o n the a r r i v a l of G o v e r n o r M a c q u a r i e in 1810 he f o un d that t h e r e was not s u f f i c i e n t land to s u p p l y g r a n t s to all w h o had b e e n p r o m i s e d them. To o v e r c o m e the land short age , M a c q u a r i e issu ed i n s t r u c t i o n s that the I l l a w a r r a ar ea was to be used for fur th er gran ts . In p u r s u a n c e of that p o l i c y the G o v e r n m e n t g a v e all the land awa y w i t h o u t r e t a i n i n g r e s e r v a t i o n s for pu bl i c p u r p o s e s and has e ve r s i nce be en b u y i n g it b a c k again. Little has b e e n recorded of s o ut h coa s t a l exploration after Bass's e x a m i n a t i o n in 1797, but in 1807 bird c o l l e c t o r s v i s i t e d the F i v e Isl an ds, w h i c h te rm m e a n t the m a i n l a n d d i s t r i c t as we ll as the i sla n d s t h e m s e l v e s , and c r ew s of ships w r e c k e d at S h o a l h a v e n in 1813 m a d e t h e i r w a y b a c k to c i v i l i z a t i o n a l ong the I l l a w a r r a coast. M e a n w h i l e , o v e r l a n d s e t t l e m e n t r e a c h e d L i v e r p o o l on the u p p e r r e a c h e s of G e o r g e ' s R iv er in 1810 w i t h the l a y ing out of the t o w n s h i p and m o v e d on to C a m p b e l l t o w n and A p p i n f r o m w h i c h o v e r l a n d c o n t a c t was m a d e w i t h the I l l a w a r r a s e a c o a s t f r o m the west. It a p p e a r s that some a b o r i g i n e s a d v i s e d Dr C h a r l e s T h r o s b y at L i v e r p o o l that grass and w a t e r w e r e in a m p l e s u p p l y at the "Five I slands" and in 1815 Dr T h r o s b y w i t h a p a r t y of two w h i t e s and two a b o r i g i n e s went to c h e c k the inf o r m a t i o n . A f t e r s p e n d i n g the n i g h t at A p p i n they t r a v e l l e d e a s t w a r d s a l o n g the p l a t e a u and r e a c h e d the top of the m o u n t a i n r a n g e 1000 feet a b o v e sea level. The n i ght was s pent at the top of the range, and n e x t d a y they cut a t r a c k do wn the m o u n t a i n s l ope s n e a r the si te of B u l l i and t r a v e l l e d to the site of W o l l o n g o n g . A l t h o u g h there are no r i v e r s o n the n a r r o w I l l a w a r r a p l a i n n o r t h of W o l l o n g o n g they f ound an a b u n d a n t s u p p l y of w a t e r in the m a n y c r ee ks w h i c h f l o w s w i f t l y d o w n the m o u n t a i n s i d e to the o c e a n and a m p l e g r a s s on the f e r t i l e s e a s i d e plain. The first m o b of c a t t l e was d r i v e n to I l l a w a r r a w i t h o u t d e l a y and a s t o c k m a n ' s hut was b u i l t for Dr T h r o s b y n e a r W o l l o n g o n g h a r b o u r w h e r e t od ay is the c o r n e r of S m i t h and H a r b o u r Streets. S q u a t t i n g h a d b e g u n on the c o a s t and the news of f a v o u r a b l e p a s t u r a g e c o n d i t i o n s was p u b l i s h e d in the " S y d n e y G a z e t t e " on M a r c h 18, 1815 and a g a i n on S e p t e m b e r 28, 1816. A n u m b e r of s q uat te rs had by the la tt e r dat e d r i v e n c a t t l e to p a s t u r e on the c o a s t and S u r v e y o r - G e n e r a l J o h n O x l e y was i n s t r u c t e d in N o v e m b e r 1816 to p r o c e e d to "the N e w D i s t r i c t of I l l a w a r r a " to m a k e a s u r v e y and m a r k the p r o p o s e d land grants. Dr T h r o s b y ' s s t o c k m a n ' s hu t w a s the m e e t i n g p l a c e for the settlers. D e p u t y S u r v e y o r - G e n e r a l M e e h a n w e n t w i t h O x l e y and r e c o r d e d that the d e s c e n t from the p l a t e a u a b o v e the c o a st land was d i f f i c u l t . He a p p e a r s to have e x a m i n e d the c o a s t a l s t r i p of land f rom Coal C l i f f s o u t h w a r d s and said that, a l t h o u g h the p l a t e a u soil a b o v e was sand, c e d a r s , s a s s a f r a s and c a b b a g e palms a bou nde d on the m o u n t a i n s i d e s . T h e c a b b a g e palms and fern trees on the m o u n t a i n s i d e s i m p r e s s e d G o v e r n o r M a c q u a r i e on his v i s i t in J a n u a r y 1822.

In D e c e m b e r 1817 G o v e r n o r M a c q u a r i e rep or ted to the B r i t i s h G o v e r n m e n t that the I l l a w a r r a had " som e little time since b e e n d i s c o v e r e d " and was s u i t a b l e for p a s t u r a g e and a g r i c u l t u r e . In 1822 he w e n t to see the d i s t r i c t for himself. He n a med the c o a s t a l m o u n t a i n d o w n w h i c h T h r o s b y had gone in 1815 " R e g e n t M o u n t a i n " and the m o u n t a i n just s o u t h - w e s t of M o u n t Keira, up w h i c h s u b s e q u e n t l y wen t O ' B r i e n ' s ne w road "Moun t B r i s b a n e " , but the n a m e s h a v e not b e e n p r ese rve d. At the p r e c i p i c e o v e r l o o k i n g Bulli, M a c q u a r i e n o t e d the " v e r y g r a n d m a g n i f i c e n t b i r d ' s eye v i e w" and the " h o r r i d s t e e p d e s c e n t " . That bird's eye v i e w c o n t i n u e s to be e n j o y e d today at the B u l l i L o o k o u t at the top of B u l l i P a s s - a w o r l d - r e n o w n e d p a n o r a m a of e m e r a l d p l a i n and a z u r e ocean. The " h o r r i d st eep d e s c e n t " t o d a y carries the f a m ous B u lli Pass on the P r i n c e ' s H i g h w a y - p e r h aps the bu si est of the m a i n r o a d s c l i m b i n g f r o m the c o a s t to the plateau. A t r a v e l l e r , P e t e r C u n n i n g h a m , w r o t e of the d e s c e n t , "y ou have to crawl ... d o w n the p r e c i p i t o u s ed ge of the m o u n t a i n d r a w i n g yo ur h o r s e g e n t l y a f t e r y o u for y o u dar e not a t t e m p t to ride ..." C u n n i n g h a m , too, n o t e d the r i c h n e s s and b e a u t y of the B u lli dist ric t; the tall fern, c e d a r and c a b b a g e trees and the l u x u r i a n t g r o w t h of v e g e t a t i o n , in w h i c h a b o u n d e d b e a u t i f u l b i r ds i n c l u d i n g the r e d - c r e s t e d b l a c k c o c k a t o o s and b l u e pigeons. B e t w e e n M a c q u a r i e ' s repo rt and his visit O x l e y had laid out the e a r l i e s t g r a n t s w h i c h d a t ed f rom 1817 in W o l l o n g o n g , t h o u g h the first s e t t l e m e n t s in the B u lli d i s t r i c t - the P a r i s h of W o n o n a - s e e m to h a v e b e e n in 1821 by C o r n e l i u s O ' B r i e n , R. L illis, P. Lillis, T h o m a s T r o t t e r , T. B r o p h y and D. G u i n e y . The first s e t t l e r at B u ll i was C o r n e l i u s O ' B r i e n b e s i d e w h o s e g r a n t p o r t i o n of the o r i g i n a l Bu lli t o w n s h i p g r e w and w h o s e h o u s e was the o n l y one e x i s t i n g up to 1825, his s t o c k y a r d s t a n d i n g s e n t i n e l - l i k e as a l a n d m a r k on the then lonely c o a s t a l strip but a few h u n d r e d yards w est of S a n d o n P oint of today. A n a t i v e of W ex f o r d , Ireland, O ' B r i e n a r r i v e d at B u l l i at the c l o s e of 1817 and lived there t w e n t y years . He had a v a r i e t y of i n t e r e s t s an d w a s one of the p r i n c i p a l shi pp e r s of c e d a r from W o l l o n g o n g ' s e a r l y port. He had the c o n t r a c t to s u p p l y W o l l o n g o n g m i l i t a r y forces w i t h beef. " A b o u t 1835" he m o v e d to Ya ss w h e r e he died on J u l y 4, 1869 aged 71 years. His wif e was f o r m e r l y M iss B r o u g h t o n of A p p i n but they left no issue. The p o int on w h i c h O ' B r i e n lived s h e l t e r e d a bay w h i c h e v e n t u a l l y b e c a m e B u l l i h a r b o u r but was e a r l y used by w h a l e r s w h o set up b o i l i n g - d o w n w o r k s w h i c h r e m a i n e d to the eighti es. At the time w h e n the first B u l li s e t t l e m e n t was m a d e the c e d a r - g e t t e r s b e g a n o p e r a t i o n s in Illaw arr a, the trade d e v e l o p i n g fr om 1819. F r o m the B u l l i m o u n t a i n s i d e the c e d a r logs w er e fel led , s a w n into p l a n k s w i t h pit saws and c a r r i e d up to the p l a t e a u b y the s a w y e r s t h e m s e l v e s , to be loaded on d r a y s and c a r r i e d to the y a r d s of the B a t m a n b r o t h e r s at P a r r a m a t t a . The m o u n t a i n s i d e was too s t e e p for v e h i c l e s and o n l y b r i d l e t r a cks e x i s t e d in the t wenties. C e d a r c u t t i n g c o n t i n u e d t h r o u g h the t h i r t i e s but the v a l u a b l e timbe r had be en cut out b y the fifties. By 1828 two house s, one o w n e d b y P e g g y M c G a w l e y b r o t h e r s a p p e a r e d at B ul li in a d d i t i o n to that

and one b y the G e r a g h t y of O'Brien. T h e y were

4 5

b e t w e e n W o o n o n a a n d B e l l a m b i of today. T h e hut of the G e r a g h t y b r o t h e r s , J a m e s and P a t r i c k , is d e s c r i b e d as it was a b o u t 1828 by "An E m i g r a n t M e c h a n i c " in his b o o k " S e t t l e r s and C o n v i c t s " . It was b u ilt of s pl it s l a b s w i t h s q u a r e h o l e s for w i n d o w s and w e l c o m e d t r a v e l l e r s to sit by its log fir e o n stools, b e n c h e s and block s of wood. S u p p e r c o n s i s t e d of tea, c o r n e d b e e f and " w h e a t e n cake b aked on the h e a r t h " , the g oo d A u s t r a l i a n damper. An e a r l y b u s h r a n g i n g in ci d e n t is r e c o r d e d in his r e m i n i s c e n c e s b y A l e x a n d e r S t e w a r t w h o s t a t e s that four c o n v i c t s w h o ha d r u n a w a y f rom t he ir m a s t e r s at A p p i n m a d e t h e i r w a y d o w n Bulli m o u n t a i n in 1828 and stole a f o w l i n g p i e c e at M c G a w l e y ' s . F r o m there they we nt to G e r a g h t y ' s , w h e r e t hey shot P a t r i c k in the hand, but his b r o t h e r in tu rn shot the b u s h r a n g e r dead, a f t e r w h i c h the o t h e r s ma de t h ei r esca pe . The incident occurred about w h e r e the W o o n o n a b o w l i n g g r e e n was later b u i l t and the dead c o n v i c t was b u r i e d at M c G a w l e y ' s Point , the first n o r t h of B e l l a m b i Bay. As a r e s u l t of the i n c i d e n t J a m e s G e r a g h t y and C o r r i g a n of W o o n o n a wer e a p p o i n t e d c o n s t a b l e s , the la tt e r s u b s e q u e n t l y b e i n g a p p o i n t e d c h i e f c o n s t a b l e for the ar ea b e t w e e n B u ll i and Sho alh ave n. O ' B r i e n ' s g r a n t m e a s u r e d 300 acres and was f i n a l l y iss ued to him from M a y 1, 1833. W i l l i a m B o w m a n and G e o r g e T ate a l s o , h e l d g r a n t s on w h i c h the Old B u l l i t o w n s h i p grew. W i l d cattle, p r o b a b l y f r o m the C o w p a s t u r e s , w e r e said in the m i d - t h i r t i e s to r o a m the b u s h at B ull i a c c o r d i n g to a repor t in " T h e C o l o n i s t " of J u n e 18, 1835, w h i l s t the " S y d n e y M o r n i n g H e r a l d " r e p o r t e d c a t t l e s t e a l i n g at B u l l i on N o v e m b e r 25, 1844. T h e n a m e " B u l l i " a p p e a r s to have b e e n fi rst r e c o r d e d in the " S y d n e y G a z e t t e " of A p r i l 22, 1815 w h e n it r e p o r t e d that one of a p a r t y s e a r c h i n g for lost c e d a r - g e t t e r s was at a pl ace c a l l e d " B o l y e " , t h i r t y - f i v e m i l e s s o u t h of P ort J a c k s o n . Th e n ame was a g a i n r e c o r d e d on F e b r u a r y 4, 182 4 w h e n D e n i s O ' B r i e n was g i v e n p e r m i s s i o n to o c c u p y 300 acres "on a s mall t rac t of land at I l l a w a r r a c a l l e d 'Bull -E ye' ". The " S y d n e y G a z e t t e " of A p r i l 8, 1826 c o n t a i n e d an a d v e r t i s e m e n t w h i c h u s e d the n a m e " L i t t l e B u l l i e " for S ta nwe ll Park, c o n f i r m e d in the s a m e p a p e r of A u g u s t 11, 1832. F o r m a n y y e a r s the n a m e B u l l i w a s us ed for all the c o u n t r y f rom W o l l o n g o n g as far n o r t h w a r d s as Coal Cliff. The a b o r i g i n a l m e a n i n g of B u lli is g i v e n as " t w o m o u n t a i n s " .

b o u n d a r i e s was d i f f i c u l t to a c ce ss for a d r a y in 1830. In the " S y d n e y M o n i t o r " of August 24, 1838 W i l l i a m B u c k n e s s a d v e r t i s e d his p u r c h a s e of " T h e B o l e " farm at S t a n w e l l Park. The p r o p e r t y later pa ss e d to S ir T h o mas M i t c h e l l and again to J u d g e H argrave. The g r o w t h of Bulli i t s e l f was d e s c r i b e d b y t r a v e l l e r s in the thirties. Rev. Dr J o h n D unm o r e Lang rode from Sydn ey to W o l l o n g o n g v ia A p p i n and b a c k in 1834 an d d e s c r i b e d the m o u n t a i n pass as the m o s t p r e c i p i t o u s for a road he had s een in the colony. D e p u t y S u r v e y o r - G e n e r a l M e e h a n s u r v e y e d a road fro m A p p i n past K i n g ' s F a l l s to the top of B u l l i M o u n t a i n in 1815 but at the time of Bot an ist A l l a n C u n n i n g h a m ' s v i sit in O c t o b e r 1815 the ro ad d o w n the m o u n t a i n w as m e r e l y the ced ar- ge t t e r s ' foot t r a c k u n s u i t a b l e for vehicles. In 1822 O ' B r i e n had a bri dle t r a c k c l e a r e d d o w n the m o u n t a i n a few m i l e s s o u t h of M o u n t K e i r a w i t h m o n e y s u b s c r i b e d b y s e t t l e r s but it was too out of the way for B u l l i settlers. G o v e r n o r M a c q u a r i e , on his v i s i t in 1822, w e n t up O ' B r i e n ' s ro ad at M o u n t K e i r a w i t h p a c k h o r s e s . H o w e v e r in 1828 b u l l o c k d r a y s w e r e u si ng the pass d o w n B ulli M o u n t a i n , the "Emigrant Mechanic" describing the methods used in "Settlers and Co nv i c t s " . F irs t he g ives a v i v i d d e s c r i p t i o n of his a r r i v a l from A p p i n at the m o u n t a i n top. He state d, "We came t o wa rd s u n d o w n , to the e n t r a n c e of thick b r u s h of the Ilia W a r r i m o u n t a i n a bo ve B u l l i e ... I s u d d e n l y b e c a m e s e n s i b l e of a m o s t d e l i c i o u s scent of m u s k ... W e n o w s oo n ca me to the edge of the m o u n t a i n . At one spot we st ood on the b r i n k of a p r e c i p i c e of vast depth, and s a w d ow n b e l o w us the m i g h t y sea d i m i n i s h e d into i n s i g n i f i c a n c e , m o s t like the wa te r s of a l o we r world. The m o u n t a i n at the spot w h e r e we went d o w n is p r e t t y c l o s e l y t i m b e r e d and the t rees are lofty ..." The d e s c r i p t i o n of the pass follows: "... In the m i d s t of our d esc ent , w h i c h was so s t eep as to c o m p e l us in some p l a c e s to s t o p o u r s e l v e s a g a i n s t the trees, I was s u r p r i s e d to r e c o g n i s e the t r a cks of d r a y w h e e l s (drays b e i n g the c o m m o n lu gga ge c o n v e y a n c e of the c o l on y) ... M y f e l l o w t r a v e l l e r i n f o r m e d me that it had b e e n let d o w n by ro pes fixed to the d r a y and p a s s e d ro und the trees ... I was g l a d at length to find m y s e l f at the foot of the m o u n t a i n ... We w ere n o w on that flat b o r d e r e d on o ne side by the sea, and on the o t h e r limi ted by the m o u n t a i n ... s c a r c e l y a g u n s h o t a cross".

The e a r l i e s t land g r a n t s w e r e s u r v e y e d b y S u r v e y o r J a m e s M c B r i e n in 1825. In the p r e v i o u s y e a r M o s e s B r e n n a n r e c e i v e d p e r m i s s i o n to o c c u p y 800 a cres " i n a small tract of land n a m e d ' Bullambi'". G r a n t s s u b s e q u e n t l y issue d i n c l u d e d a large g r a n t to M i s s H a r r i e t O v e r i n g t o n on M a r c h 3, 1827, on w h i c h the B el l a m b i v i l l a g e was laid out n e a r B e l l a m b i P oi nt in 1842 w h e n the B e l l a m b i E s t a t e wa s o f f e r e d for sale. J o h n B u c k l a n d a ls o had a large g r a n t there. The v i l l a g e at that pl ace m a d e l i t t l e p r o g r e s s for a h u n d r e d years.

A n o t h e r vi si t o r , Rev. J a m e s B a c k h o u s e in 1836 w r o t e that the B ulli P ass was d i f f i c u l t for horse s and i m p o s s i b l e for c art s e x c e p t b y the a s s i s t a n c e of ropes p a s s e d a r o u n d the trees. The pass w as c l o s e to the e v e n t u a l Bu lli Pass for L a n g w r ote , " The first r e s p e c t a b l e s e t t l e r fal l e n in w i t h is Mr C o r n e l i u s O ' B r i e n of Bul l a i , w h o s e neat c o t t a g e , s i t u a t e d at the foot of the m o u n t a i n , s t a nd s a l m o s t on the sea b e a c h " . T h a t i n f o r m a t i o n is c o n f i r m e d b y T.L. M i t c h e l l ' s " Map of I l l a w a r r a " , 1834, w h i c h shows B ul li and W a n i o r a P o i n t ( f r o m 1900 ca ll e d S a n d o n Poin t) ; O ' B r i e n ' s h o u s e near the point and a t r ack c u r v i n g s o uth fr om the p oint to m e e t a t r a c k from W o o n o n a a f te r w h i c h they pass up a m o u n t a i n r i d g e to A p p i n .

In a p i c t u r e s q u e p o ck et s u r r o u n d e d b y m o u n t a i n s w h i c h m e e t the sea at e a c h e n d of a t h r e e - m i l e b e a c h lies S t a n w e l l Park, s o m e e i g h t m i l e s n o r t h of Bulli. U n d e r its first n a m e " L i t t l e B u l l i " it w a s p r o m i s e d to M a t t h e w J o h n G i b b o n s in 1824 for a g r a z i n g run of 1000 acres. It w a s in S o u t h e n d P a r i s h of the C o u n t y of C u m b e r l a n d and the name, S t a n w e l l Park, p o s s i b l y a f t e r a v i l l a g e of S t a n w e l l in M i d d l e s e x , E n g l a n d , r e c o r d e d on Gi bbons' g r ant in A u g u s t 1833, became fixed an d rem ains. The v a l l e y w i t h its m o u n t a i n

The Counties of Cumberland and Camden converge at Bulli Point. C h i p p e n d a l e ' s 300 a cres is a l o n g the w a t e r f r o n t and b a c k of T h i r r o u l of 1950. So uth of O'B r i e n , F. C a f f e had 300 acr es, the n c a m e the h o l d i n g s of Ell i o t t , Br ennan, C a l l a g h a n and K e l l y of 50 a c r e s each, fo ll o w e d by H a r r i e t t S p e a r i n g w i t h 2000 a c res n o r t h and s o u t h of " B a l l a m b i " . Less

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d e t a i l is g i v e n in M i t c h e l l ' s " Map of the C o l o n y of N e w S o u t h W a l e s " the s a m e ye ar. The g r a d u a l d e v e l o p m e n t of n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a is t r a c e d in the C h a r t of N e w S o u t h W a l e s " p u b l i s h e d by J. C r o s s y e a r by y e a r fro m 1 82 8 to 1839. The 1828 m a p sh ows " Coal C l i f f s " on the c o a s t and " C a t a r a c t " a b o v e the m o u n t a i n s . T h e 1839 m a p adds Bulli w i t h the r oad m a r k e d f r o m the top of the m o u n t a i n a b o v e B u ll i to Appin , C a m p b e l l t o w n and L i v e r p o o l to S y d n e y . Th e large p a s t o r a l h o l d i n g s about B ul li ha d b e e n c l e a r e d and i m p r o v e d in the y e a r s p r i o r to the forties w h e n t h ere b e g a n a m o v e m e n t b y large l a n d h o l d e r s to b r e a k up their h o l d i n g s int o s mal l f arm lots and to o f f e r t h e m for sale. O ' B r i e n h i m s e l f had m o v e d on to Y a s s and faded out of the h i s t o r y of Bulli, to be r e p l a c e d in the late t h i r t i e s and e a r l y f o r t i e s by C a p t a i n R o b e r t M a r s h W e s t m a c o t t w h o s e c u r e d h o l d i n g s at W o o d l a n d s on the r i d g e b e t w e e n the foot of the m o d e r n B ull i P ass and the sea, t h r o u g h w h i c h f l o wed W o o d l a n d s C r e e k w h i c h c r o s s e s the m a i n r o a d at the foot of the pass. He a l s o s e c u r e d land n or th to A u s t i n m e r w h e r e he b uilt a h o m e c a l l e d Sidmouth. His land was g r a n t e d in 1837. The e s t a t e of Bulli was o f f e r e d for s ale in 1841 and was later s u b d i v i d e d into 22 lots r a n g i n g f r o m 25 to 165 acres . W e s t m a c o t t ' s W o o d l a n d s E s t a t e was so ld in 1847 for £800. By the o p e n i n g for tie s B ul li had b e c o m e s e t t l e d b y g r a z i e r s and w h e a t was b e i n g grown. S e t t l e m e n t b e g a n to i n c r e a s e an d B u l l i g r e w as a c e n t r e on the ro ad fro m W o l l o n g o n g to Appin. But b e f o r e t w e n t y y e a r s had p a s s e d a g r e a t e r impetus to g r o w t h was g i v e n by the o p e n i n g of the Bulli coal m i n e s w h i c h in their e a r l i e r y e a r s gave e m p l o y m e n t and l ate r e n s u r e d some w e a l t h to the t o w n s h i p w h i c h g r e w a r o u n d them.

CHAPTER 3 M O U N T A I N

T R E A S U R E

1841-1956 Th e s e t t l e m e n t of the f ertile coas ta l s tri p b e t w e e n the m o u n t a i n s and the sea a l o n g the n o r t h e r n I l la war ra coast lin e, w h i c h was all k now n at first as Bulli, s a w the p r o d u c t i o n from its e a r l y s e t t l e m e n t of p r ime bee f in i n c r e a s i n g q u a n t i t i e s s u p p l e m e n t e d by p o t a t o e s , w hea t , m a iz e, pigs and p o u l t r y , s u p p l i e d to S y d n e y m ar ket s. The y e a r 1846 s a w the i n t r o d u c t i o n of t w i c e - a - d a y m i l k i n g and the s ki mmi ng of c r e a m set on b r o a d d i s h e s o v e r n i g h t and c h u r n e d b y han d into butter, for d e s p a t c h to Sydney. A g r i c u l t u r e and d a i r y i n g w h i c h has c o n t i n u e d in a small w a y to this d a y at Bulli, W o o n o n a and Be 1 Iambi had become est ab lis hed , but its importance was soon o v e r s h a d o w e d b y the d e v e l o p m e n t of the d i s t r i c t ' s g r e a t e r w e a l t h - the I l l a w a r r a coal seams of w h i c h the B ulli s e a m wa s to y i e ld its u n t o l d wealth. The e a r l y c oa l d i s c o v e r i e s of Clar ke and Bass w e r e not f o r g o t t e n d u r i n g the e a r l y p a s t o r a l days of the distri ct. As e a r l y as 1828 J a m e s S h o o b e r t se c u r e d s e v e r a l bags of coal on C h i p p e n d a l e ' s g r a n t at Bu lli w h e r e T h i r r o u l later g r e w an d t o o k samples to Sydney. The c o a l s e a m s o u t c r o p p e d on the m o u n t a i n s i d e , g r a d u a l l y r i sin g s o u t h w a r d s fro m Coal Cliff. The g eo l o g i s t , Rev. W.B. C l a r k e , b e g a n e x a m i n i n g the s o u t h c o a s t c oal m e a s u r e s in 1839. He m e n t i o n e d M o u n t K e i r a and B ell a m b i as l i k e l y s eams but no e f f ort at m i n i n g c oal wa s a l l o w e d b e c a u s e the A u s t r a l i a n A g r i c u l t u r a l C o m p a n y had the sole r i g h t to m i n e coal in the colony. In 1840 C a p t a i n W e s t m a c o t t , w h o had b o u g h t land f r o m C o r n e l i u s O ' B r i e n at Bulli, p l a n n e d to m i n e coal and to ship it f r o m W o l l o n g o n g . G o v e r n o r G i p p s s a n c t i o n e d the p lan in J u l y 1840 but the s c h e m e was not ca rr i e d out. The m o n o p o l y of the A u s t r a l i a n A g r i c u l t u r a l C o m p a n y wa s w i t h d r a w n in 1848. Soo n a f t e r w a r d s the first coal m i n e in I l l a w a r r a wa s o p e n e d at M o u n t K e i r a by J a m e s S h o o b e r t and the first carts of c o a l w e r e taken to W o l l o n g o n g a m i dst g rea t r e j o i c i n g and c e r e m o n y on A u g u s t 27, 1849. Soo n the coal was b e i n g s h i p p e d to S y d n e y for hom e and f a c t o r y use and the d e m a n d for I l l a w a r r a co al began. The m i n e was in the f o u r - f o o t seam and wa s later a ban d o n e d . By the late fifties a s e co nd m i n d - the " O s b o r n e - W a l lsend" o p e n e d at a h i g h e r a l t i t u d e at M o u n t K e i r a in A p r i l 1857 in the e i g h t - f o o t seam. The " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " repor te d, " I l l a w a r r a is in p o s s e s s i o n of an a r t i c l e of d o m e s t i c use and e x p or t not s e c o n d in i m p o r t a n c e to the rich est gold fie Id in the colony. ... Our b l a c k d i a m o n d s will p r o m o t e c o m m e r c e and add to our s o c ia l industry". T h e coal w a s f ound very s u i t a b l e for steamships. B ull i d i s t r i c t p r o v i d e d the third m i n e later in the same year w h e n T h o m a s Hale of W o o n o n a , u n d e r a r r a n g e m e n t w i t h H e n r y O sb o r n e , the lan dh old er, o p e n e d the B e l l a m b i (also ca ll e d the W o o n o n a ) c o a l m i n e t h r e e - q u a r t e r s of a mil e up the m o u n t a i n s i d e in a seam e i g h t feet thick, 4 8 0 feet a b ov e sea level. A r o u g h b ush track was cut to the m i n e f r o m w h i c h the coal ran d o w n the m o u n t a i n s i d e on a shoot, and later on an i ncline, from the foot of w hic h h o r s e - d r a w n drays loaded it and c o n v e y e d it to the n e w l y o p e n e d B e l l a m b i h ar bou r. The event was c e l e b r a t e d in N o v e m b e r w h e n T h o m a s Hale

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t e n d e r e d a luncheon to a n u m b e r of c i t i z e n s i n c l u d i n g C h a r l e s T h r o s b y Smith, f o u n d e r of W o l l o n g o n g , F.P. Ma cC a b e , D.W. A r m s t r o n g and t h eir lad i e s in a tent e r e c t e d on a t e m p o r a r y coal stage. B e l l a m b i coal was d e c l a r e d " l i t t l e , if a nyt hin g, i n f e r i o r to the b e s t W e l s h c o a l " and it was soon b e i n g e x p o r t e d to M e l b o u r n e and A d e l a i d e as w e l l as to S y d n e y and later to China. W i t h i n a y e a r a s e c o n d B e l l a m b i m i n e was o p e n e d b y T a y l o r and W a l k e r on Dr B a r t h o l o m e w O ' B r i e n ' s land t h r e e - q u a r t e r s of a m i l e n o r t h of H a l e ' s m i n e . T r a n s p o r t of coal to the h a r b o u r was im p r o v e d w h e n t owards the en d o f 1858 Hal e c o n s t r u c t e d a t h r e e - m i l e r a i l w a y f r o m his m i n e to the ha rbo ur. It was of w o o d e n r a i l s f a c ed w i t h iron e x c e p t at the road cr os s i n g s . T a y l o r and Walker, ho wever, a f t e r p e n e t r a t i n g 300 feet s t r u c k a fault; m i n i n g s t o p p e d a fter a y e a r ' s w o r k and the land r e v e r t e d to the o w n er s. As a r e s u l t of losses on the s ale of coal, the w r e c k i n g of v e s s e l s an d the d i f f i c u l t i e s and d a n g e r s of l o a d i n g v e s s e l s in the o p e n sea at B e l l a m b i , H a l e ' s m i n e c l ose d in M a r c h 1863, H a l e h a v i n g lost the g r e a t e r part of his wealth. T h e Bulli and B e l l a m b i C o m p a n y r e - o p e n e d the m i n e l a t e r bu t it e v e n t u a l l y m e r g e d w i t h S o u t h Bulli.

1

I1

M o u n t K e i r a led the trad^ for 1859 w i t h 1 4 , 2 4 4 tons v a l u e d at £15,668, c l o s e l y f o l l o w e d by B e l l a m b i w i t h 9449 tons v a l u e d at £1 3,393. Th e o u t p u t of " O ' B r i e n ' s Bul li" was v a l u e d at o n l y £1136. It w as e x p l a i n e d in A p r i l 1860 that the "Bulli coal m i n e s " wer e on the j oint p r o p e r t y of Dr B. O ' B r i e n and "Mr S o m e r v i l l e " a b o u t a q u a r t e r of a m i l e n o r t h of O ' B r i e n ' s and s i x t y feet into the 8 ' 6 " seam. A r a i l w a y s e ve n m i l e s long s k i r t i n g the b e a c h e s to W o l l o n g o n g h a r b o u r was p r o p o s e d but it was n e v e r c o n s t r u c t e d . The g i g a n t i c b l a c k b u t t and i r o n b a r k trees o n the m o u n t a i n s i d e s w e r e c o n s i d e r e d e x c e l l e n t for m i n i n g n e e d s and w e r e r e p o r t e d to be in p l e n t i f u l supply. T e st s r e v e a l e d that " B u l l i c oal" w a s s u p e r i o r to a n y o t h e r for s t e a m i n g p u r p o s e s and a c o m p a n y was formed to o p e r a t e the m i n e s . Before the end of the s ev ent ies all B r i t i s h w a r s h i p s s t a t i o n e d in A u s t r a l i a u s e d I l l a w a r r a c oa l and o v e r s e a s s h i p s b o u n d for E n g l a n d , Sa n F r a n c i s c o , T o r r e s St ra i t and the East u sed it. M e a n w h i l e H a l e c o n t i n u e d p r o s p e c t i n g in W o o n o n a w h i c h he h a d o p e n e d . As e a r l y as 1860 the m i n e r s in hi s e m p l o y t h r e a t e n e d to s t r i k e for i n c r e a s e d w a g e s w h i c h he i m m e d i a t e l y c o n c e d e d , thus p r e s e r v i n g i n d u s t r i a l p e a c e a f t e r N e w c a s t l e Mi ne r s ' U n i o n d e l e g a t e s ha d v i s i t e d W o l l o n g o n g to s e e k m i n e r s ' c o - o p e r a t i o n as m e m b e r s of a u n ion . Hale's services to the d i s t r i c t in d e v e l o p i n g the coal trade were r e c o g n i s e d b y the c i t i z e n s w h e n a c o m m i t t e e a r r a n g e d a t e s t i m o n i a l to him in 1863. In M a r c h the f o l l o w i n g y e a r he w a s p r e s e n t e d w i t h a s i l v e r tea se r v i c e at a d i nn er a t t e n d e d by m a n y m e n of w e a l t h and i n f l u e n c e . Hi s e f f o r t s m a d e I l l a w a r r a coal k n o w n far and w i d e not o n l y in the A u s t r a l i a n c o l o n i e s but al so in En gl a n d , C h i n a and C a l i f o r n i a . In 1861 a ne w m i n e a b ov e " R u s s e l l Vale, the seat of F.P. M a c C a b e " at the foot of the m o u n t a i n slope w a s p r o p o s e d , to be w o r k e d b y T a y l o r an d W a l k e r and h a v i n g a tram wa y to B e l l a m b i . Th e c o n s t r u c t i o n of the t r a m w a y w h i c h c r o s s e d that of H al e near the w h a r f b r o u g h t a riot b e t w e e n the m e n of e a c h

10 11 proprietor. T h e co al trade was d e p r e s s e d in 1864 w h e n a c o - o p e r a t i v e c o m p a n y to take o v e r T a y l o r and W a l k e r ' s m i n e was sought, b u t the m i n e c l o s e d and o n l y in 1884 was its r e - o p e n i n g b y M a c C a b e and C o m p a n y f u r t h e r considered. It was e v e n t u a l l y r e - o p e n e d in 1887 at R u s s e l l V a l e as the S o u t h Bulli C o l l i e r y , u n d e r the O s b o r n e family, w i t h W. W i l s o n as m a n a g e r . A n e w j e tty was c o n s t r u c t e d at Bel l a m b i Bay and a r a i l w a y laid to the n e w c o l l i e r y w h i c h was e n t e r e d a m i l e south of the o r i g i n a l W o o n o n a C o l l i e r y . The j e t t y was 8 2 0 feet long b e y o n d the h i g h - w a t e r line w i t h 26 feet of w a t e r a l o n g s i d e at low tide. T he 150 w a g g o n s w e r e m a d e at the c o l l i e r y works. The first s h i p m e n t f r o m the new j e tty was m a d e in N o v e m b e r 1887. T h e m i n e was b e g u n b y T h o m a s S a y w e l l of S y d n e y on land r e n t e d f r o m O s b o r n e s at n i n e p e n c e per ton r oya l t y , the coal s e l lin g at 4s 6d per ton free on bo at. A p u bli c c o m p a n y wa s to be floated. Th e e v e n t was c e l e b r a t e d b y a b u l l o c k r o a s te d w h o l e in the p r e s e n c e of h u n d r e d s of v i s i t o r s . The W o o n o n a and S o u t h B ul li c o l l i e r i e s w e r e s u b s e q u e n t l y o p e r a t e d as one m i n e by the B e l l a m b i Coal C o m p a n y and c o n n e c t e d u n d e r g r o u n d , S o u t h B u l l i h a v i n g b e e n p u r c h a s e d in 1901 f r o m E b e n e z e r V ick e r y . Six locomotives with h o p p e r w a g g o n s w e r e u s e d to d r a w coal to the w h a r f w h i l s t an e n d l e s s r o p e o p e r a t e d in the m in e, w h i c h was then lit b y e l e c t r i c i t y . The jetty e x t e n d e d 1630 feet f r o m the shore, load ing c o n t i n u e d d ay an d n i g h t and 1000 m e n w e r e e mpl o y e d . P r o d u c t i o n c o n t i n u e d at the " M o d e l C o l l i e r y " a b o v e W o o n o n a u n til the G r e a t W a r in 1914 s t o p p e d p r o d u c t i o n as the p r i n c i p a l c o n s u m e r s wer e G e r m a n s h i p p i n g co mp a n i e s . The m i n e c l o s e d in 1916. At B ul li itself the o p e n i n g of m i n e s by the B u lli Co al C o m p a n y w a s s a n c t i o n e d by P a r l i a m e n t in A u g u s t 1862 and the m i n e o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d on Ju ne 23, 1863 on the m o u n t a i n s i d e west of B u l l i P o i n t w h e r e a j e t t y w a s e r e c t e d u n d e r the lee o f a s h ort reef. Co al w a s r e g u l a r l y s h i p p e d to S y d n e y fr om the b e g i n i n g of 1863 and in A u g u s t the o v e r s e a s t r ade was o p e n e d b y the first s h i p m e n t to S h an gha i, China, by the I r o n s i d e . James S h o o b e r t w h o o p en ed the first co al m i n e in I l l a w a r r a wa s s e c r e t a r y and l at er m a n a g e r of the B u l l i Co al C o m p a n y w h i l s t W i l l i a m R o b son , f irst m i n e m a n a g e r , was fol lo wed b y W i l l i a m S o m e r v i l l e in J u l y 1863 and he in tur n b y A l e x a n d e r Ross in 1866. S h o o b e r t o r i g i n a l l y t r a d e d in a s a i l i n g v e s s e l to W o l l o n g o n g w he re he s e t t l e d and e n g a g e d in a g r i c u l t u r a l p u r s u i t s b e f o r e e n t e r i n g u pon m i n in g. He d i e d at B a l m a i n at the age of s e v e n t y - o n e in 1876. W h e n coal was in d e m a n d its s u p p l y was g o v e r n e d b y the a v a i l a b i l i t y of s h i p p i n g and the o p e r a t i o n of the jetty. L ik e B e l l a m b i , the B u l l i m i n e had its s t r i k e troubles. As e a r l y as 1867, w h e n the m a n a g e r put in l a r g e r coal " t u b s " or skips, the m e n s t r u c k for pay in a c c o r d a n c e w i t h the e x t r a coa l the y c on tained. J a m e s S h o o b e r t and A l e x a n d e r R o s s c o n c e d e d the m e n ' s d e m a n d s and soon the t r o u b l e was over. In 1867, w h e n the p u r c h a s e of a l o c o m o t i v e to r e p l a c e the h o r s e a n d b u l l o c k for d r a w i n g the w a g g o n s to the j e t t y wa s p r o p o s e d , the c o r r e s p o n d e n t r e m a r k e d "... W h o w o u l d hav e tho u g h t that the s h r i l l w h i s t l e of the l o c o m o t i v e w o uld be h e a r d in the v a l l e y s of B ull i ..." The e n g i n e was b u i l t b y V a l e and L a c e y of S y d n e y and was the f irst l o c o m o t i v e in the district. It arr ive d in M a y 1867 and b e g a n r u n n i n g w h e n the m i n e r e - o p e n e d

a f t e r the r e b u i l d i n g of s h o r t l y a fte rwards.

the

jetty

in A u g u s t .

A

second

engine

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added

T r a d e d e p r e s s i o n s and w o r k r e s t r i c t e d to a v a r y i n g n u m b e r of da ys e a c h w e e k a l w a y s a d v e r s e l y a f f e c t e d the min e r s . In J a n u a r y 1872 they a s k e d the d i r e c t o r s of the Bulli Coal C o m p a n y for w o r k as they faced fin a n c i a l d i f f i c u l t i e s , a v e r a g i n g only 15s to £1 per w e e k over the p r e v i o u s y e a r w i t h 3s to be paid for rent, s i x p e n c e for d o c t o r and e i g h t p e n c e for b e n e f i t s oci ety . At that time the m i n e wa s c a p ab le of p r o d u c i n g 600 tons d a i l y and e m p l o y e d e i g h t y men. In 1871 it p r o d u c e d 3 5 , 2 5 3 tons. H o r s e s w e r e us ed in the pit to pull the coal t r u c k s and y o u n g boys w e r e e m p l o y e d to d r ive h o r s e s and o p e n and c los e d oor s in the mine, b e f o r e the 1880 A c t c o m p e l l e d t h e m to a t t e n d school. By 1876 the dr iv e s e x t e n d e d i n w a r d s a b o u t a m i l e in n o r t h - w e s t e r l y and s o u t h - w e s t e r l y d i r e c t i o n s from two e n t r a n c e s a b o u t 400 feet a b o v e sea level. S ki ps w e r e d raw n by h o r s e s to w h e r e the tun n e l s l o p e d tow ar ds the e n t r a n c e an d ran out b y g r a v i t y to the scr ee n s . There the coal filled f ou r- t o n w a g g o n s w h i c h w e r e low er ed d o w n an i n c l i n e o n the h i l l s i d e from the foot of w h i c h t h e y wer e d r a w n to the j et ty a m i l e and a h a l f away. The m i n e e m p l o y e d e i g h t y m i n e r s and s i x t y - f i v e l a b o u r e r s and boys. M i n i n g i m p r o v e m e n t s were b r o u g h t a b o u t wi th the c o m i n g into o p e r a t i o n of the C o l l i e r i e s R e g u l a t i o n A c t on J u n e 1, 1876. Nevertheless small a c c i d e n t s in the c o l l i e r y ha ve o c c u r r e d on rare o c c a s i o n s o v e r the years, b e i n g m a i n l y ca us e d by falls of rocks. By the m i d - s e v e n t i e s the coal m e a s u r e s had b e e n s u r v e y e d an d h a d b e e n found to c o n s i s t of s e v e r a l seams. The top s eam six to n i n e feet t h i c k r i s i n g s o u t h w a r d s fr om sea level at Coal C l i f f to a h e igh t of 80 0 feet at M o u n t K e m b l a was b e i n g w o r k e d at Bul li, " O s b o r n e - W a l l s e n d " (Mount K e i r a ) , and M o u n t P l e a s a n t . B e l o w it was found a f our -fo ot seam, a 17 foot s e a m p a r t l y c o n t a i n i n g b a nds an d refuse, a s e v e n - f o o t s e a m and a 14-foot seam. At B ull i a n e w pit or tunnel w a s o p e n e d n o r t h of the o r i g i n a l one in 1878 an d a n e w in cli ne was c o n s t r u c t e d . T h e r a i l w a y fork ed to s er ve bot h i n c l i n e s and the v i l l a g e near t h e m w a s ca ll e d Pit Town. Coal c o n t i n u e d to be s h i p p e d from the j e tty w h i c h f r o m time to time w a s w r e c k e d by s torms. " B l a c k d i a m o n d s " g r e w to be an e x p r e s s i o n c o m m o n l y used, not o n l y to r e fer to the coal but also as a n a m e for clubs, s p o r t i n g o r g a n i s a t i o n s , h o t e l s and b u s i n e s s e s , w h i l s t the B u l l i c o r r e s p o n d e n t of the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " styled himself "Black Diamond". T h e first coal f r o m the n e w t un n e l and i n c l i n e wa s sent aw ay in N o v e m b e r 1879. Th e tunn el c o n t i n u e d in u se for a q u a r t e r of a c e n t u r y until a n o t h e r tunn el was o p e n e d n e a r b y for the B ul li Pass or "B" pit from w h i c h the c o a l was t r a n s p o r t e d b y road. Th e i n c l i n e was a b a n d o n e d and is n o w o v e r g r o w n b y trees. A l a n d s l i d e s e a l e d the old tunn el entra nc e. In the e a r l y e i g h t i e s the f o u r - f o o t s e a m was o p e n e d at B ul li but in 1885 a l o c k - o u t was c a u s e d b y the i n a b i l i t y of the m e n and o w n e r s to a g r e e on the p r i c e for the " h e w i n g and w h e e l i n g of the tubs". E a r l y labour d i f f i c u l t i e s b e t w e e n m i n e r s and m a s t e r s ha d b e e n q u i c k l y s e t t l e d but the s e v e n t i e s s a w the e s t a b l i s h m e n t of u n i ons t h r o u g h o u t the c ol o n y . At B ulli the m a n a g e m e n t faced the n e c e s s i t y of d e c i d i n g w h e t h e r to e m p l o y u n i o n m e n w h o w e n t on strike to e n f o r c e the p r i n c i p l e and w e r e in tur n locked out. The

12 13 " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " c o r r e s p o n d e n t said in 1879, " U n i o n s h a v e b e c o m e so general that it w o u l d a p p e a r that B ulli s h o u l d be i n c l u d e d in some association". T h e m i n e m a n a g e r r epl i e d that the l ock - o u t was not b r o u g h t a b o u t b e c a u s e the m e n forme d a u n i o n but b e c a u s e they a t t e m p t e d to d i c t a t e to w h o m the coal s h o u l d be sold. The u n i o n was r e c o g n i s e d p r o v i d e d it was not c o n n e c t e d w i t h N e w c a s t l e u n i o n (whose d e l e g a t e s had v i s i t e d the s o u t h c o a s t to s ee k and o r g a n i s e support) and p r o v i d e d that no a t t e m p t was m a d e to in te r f e r e w i t h the m a n a g e m e n t ' s di sp o s a l of the coal. T h e Bulli Miners' L o d g e was formed in 1879 and met in W i l s o n ' s H o t e l a s s e m b l y room. Coal C l i f f f o rme d its min e r s ' lodge in S e p t e m b e r the same year. A r e d u c t i o n of m i n er s' rates b y the o w ne rs in 1880 b r o u g h t a m a s s m e e t i n g of m i n e r s w h o m a r c h e d , led by the band, to G r a h a m ' s p a d d o c k at W o o n o n a w h e r e they d e c i d e d to go on strike. C o a l C l i f f m e n r e t u r n e d to w o r k a fter a w e e k but M o u n t P l e a s a n t and Bulli m e n h e l d out. Unionism was still in its infancy. It lacked s o l i d a r i t y and M o u n t P l e a s a n t m e n t o o k up w o r k at Coal Cliff. The Coal C l i f f and B ull i lodges w o r k e d i n d e p e n d e n t l y . H o w e v e r in J u l y 1886 a m a s s m e e t i n g d e c i d e d to s e e k an e i g h t - h o u r d a y f r o m J a n u a r y 1887 and to a m a l g a m a t e w i t h the H u n t e r R i v e r d i s t r i c t m i n e r s in a u n i o n w h i c h it r e q u e s t e d N e w c a s t l e and L i t h g o w m i n e r s to f orm as a N a t i o n a l M ine r s ' Union. D i s p u t e s b e c a m e slow er of s e t t l e m e n t and the m i n e r s w e r e a d a m a n t d e s p i t e the h a r d s h i p s involved. In 1886 the loss of w a g e s c o m p e l l e d m i n e r s at B u l l i to leave the m i n e c o m p a n y ' s h o u s e s and to live in tents. Th e str ike s t a r t e d in A u g u s t and in J a n u a r y the m a n a g e m e n t d e c i d e d to c o m m e n c e o p e r a t i o n s w i t h free or n o n - u n i o n l a b o u r e r s b r o u g h t from S y d n e y by the M e r k s w o r t h and e s c o r t e d from j ett y to m i n e by the p o l ic e. However w h e n 40 m e n we re b r o u g h t d o w n two w e eks later the B u l l i m i n e r s and t he ir families, n u m b e r i n g 4 0 0 and i n c l u d i n g 150 women, m u s t e r e d and b l o c k e d the t r a m w a y w h e r e the l o c o m o t i v e was h a l te d w i t h its si x w a g g o n s of m e n as it a t t e m p t e d to cross the m a i n ro ad in the v i l l a g e - the " Q u e e n ' s H i g h w a y " as the p e op le c a l led it. The free l a bou re rs wer e a d d r e s s e d by the c r o w d t h i r t y - s i x d e s e r t e d to the c r o w d and four r e t u r n e d h a s t i l y on foot to the steamer. It was a d a y of e x c i t e m e n t in Old B u l l i and d e m o n s t r a t e d the s o l i d a r i t y of the pe opl e. N i n e m e n f rom the c r owd w e r e later f o und g u i l t y at the Bulli Polic e C o u r t of o b s t r u c t i n g w i t h v i o l e n c e Ro be r t P o l l o c k in d r i v i n g his eng i n e and w e r e f ined £2 each.

o v e r c o m e w i t h gas and the o t h e r s followed. W o m e n an d c h i l d r e n g a t h e r e d a b o u t the pit top and d i s t r e s s i n g scenes w e r e w i t n e s s e d . A l l the first r e l i e f p a r t i e s w e r e o v e r p o w e r e d by gas in the tunne l. F i n a l l y a large n u m b e r of v o l u n t e e r s , i n c l u d i n g former s t r i k e r s not r e t u r n e d to work, w e r e s u c c e s s f u l l y led into the m i n e b y J.O. M acC a b e , m a n a g e r of M o u n t Ke ir a ; J. Evan s, m a n a g e r of M o u n t Kem b l a ; J.C. Jones, m a n a g e r of N o r t h I l l a w a r r a and W. W i l l i a m s , m a n a g e r of C l i f t o n . The bodies of the v i c t i m s w e r e r e c o v e r e d and c a r r i e d o v e r a m i l e to the tunnel m o u t h w h e r e i d e n t i f i c a t i o n p r o v e d e x t r e m e l y d i f f i c u l t and for m a n y impossible. It w a s r e p o r t e d of the kill ed, "The r emains ar e in s o m e c as es b u r n e d to a cinder. T h e h e a d s are s m a s h e d in, the arm s and l eg s br ok e n , and fea rfu l g a s h e s a p p e a r on the bod ies . The clot hes in m a n y c a s e s are b u r n e d to ashes. T h e h a i r is s i n g e d f r o m h eads and faces a n d the f l e s h r o a s t e d and s h r i v e l l e d ..." Eighty-one bodies were recovered. On the F r i d a y 80 m e n w e r e e m p l o y e d d i g g i n g g r a v e s b e s i d e St. A u g u s t i n e ' s C h u r c h of E n g l a n d , in the s h a d o w of w h i c h the c o f f i n s w e r e p l a c e d as they a rri ved , a w a i t i n g c o m p l e t i o n of the graves. The b u r i a l s e r v i c e s w e r e read at v a r i o u s h o u r s of the d a y b y Rev. H.W. T a y l o r to w h o m t e l e g r a m s h a d b e e n sent to P a r r a m a t t a w h e r e he h a d b een r e s t i n g p r e p a r a t o r y to g o i n g a b r o a d and w h o h a d i m m e d i a t e l y r e t u r n e d to Bu 11 i . Som e g r a v e s c o n t a i n e d fat her s and their sons; e i g h t R o m a n C a t h o l i c s b u r i e d at F a i r y M e a d o w R o m a n C a t h o l i c c e m e t e r y ( l a t e r C o r r i m a l ) ; P r e s b y t e r i a n s at W o o n o n a c h u r c h y a r d and the u n i d e n t i f i e d at Bulli.

wer e some

W i t h o u t d e l a y the M a y o r of W o l l o n g o n g c a l l e d a p u b l i c m e e t i n g to pl an a s s i s t a n c e for the w i d o w s and c h i ldr en , £500 b e i n g f o u n d at once. Memorial s e r v i c e s w e r e h e l d in all the c h u r c h e s on the S u n d a y . F i f t y w i d o w s an d 150 o r p h a n s r e m a i n e d a l i v e to tell the tale. T h e i n q u i r y h e l d at Bu lli O dd f e l l o w s ' H a l l b y C.F. S m i t h a s s i s t e d b y G. O ' M a l l e y C l a r k e w a s the lon ges t on r e c o r d for the col o n y . The j ur y f o u n d that the m e n m e t their d e a t h by a gas e x p l o s i o n and a dd ed a r i d e r r e f l e c t i n g on the sa fe t y m e a s u r e s t a k e n b y the m a n a g e m e n t . A R oyal C o m m i s s i o n wa s a p p o i n t e d b y the G o v e r n m e n t to e n q u i r e into the c a use of the e x p l o s i o n . It sat in W o l l o n g o n g T o w n Hall. Its f i n d i n g r e f l e c t e d o n the p r e c a u t i o n s e x e r c i s e d by the m e n an d r e c o m m e n d e d that m e a s u r e s for s a f e t y be t a k e n w h e r e gas e x i s t e d in the mine.

The str ike c o l l a p s e d s o o n a f t e r w a r d s and the m e n a g r e e d to w o r k a f t e r si x m o n t h s w i t h o u t w o r k - the lon ges t s t o p p a g e to that time in the d i s t r i c t . All were i mp o v e r i s h e d and in poor c i r c u m s t a n c e s and the m i n e r s g ave p r e f e r e n c e in r e t u r n i n g to w o r k to the m a r r i e d men. L ots w e r e d r a w n to s e l ect the order for r e t u r n and w i t h i n one m o n t h t ho se w h o had r e t u r n e d those w h o s e families n e e d e d the m s o r e l y - w e r e s w e p t into e t e r n i t y in the g r e a t min e e x p l o s i o n w h i c h left d o z e n s of w i d o w s an d f a t h e r l e s s c h i l d r e n in B u l l i ' s g rea t e s t ca la m i t y .

A r e l i e f fund b r o u g h t £ 2 2 , 0 0 0 to the L o r d M a y o r of S y d n e y w i t h i n a m o n t h and e v e n t u a l l y t o t a l l y £ 40, 000 . The m o n e y p r o v e d m o r e d i f f i c u l t to d i s t r i b u t e e q u i t a b l y t h a n to r a i s e an d its d i s t r i b u t i o n w a s g o v e r n e d b y an Act p a s s e d by P a r l i a m e n t the y e a r a f t e r the d i s a s t e r .

W o r k was p r o c e e d i n g n o r m a l l y on W e d n e s d a y , M a r c h 23, 1887 w h e n at 2.30 p.m. a great e x p l o s i o n in the m i n e b l e w out fro m the pit m o u t h u n c o n s c i o u s the boy Her ber t Cope and s c a t t e r e d a h e a p of pit p r o p s fr om the t unnel. E i g h t y - o n e miners, of w h o m 17 w e r e boys, and i n c l u d i n g f if ty old h a n d s w h o w e r e m a r r i e d m e n w i t h fa mi l i e s , w e r e e n tom bed . Lang, C h a l m e r s , S cot t and Hope, in the absen ce in W o l l o n g o n g of the m i n e m a n a g e r A l e x a n d e r Ro ss, w e r e first to enter the m i n e a f t e r the e x p l o s i o n . L a n g d r a w l e d ou t a l m o s t

To c o m m e m o r a t e the m i n e r s lost in the d i s a s t e r the G o v e r n m e n t p r o p o s e d to er ect a m o n u m e n t in the p u b l i c p a r k at B u l l i b u t the p e o p l e s t r o n g l y o p p o s e d the s u g g e s t i o n . T h e i r a l t e r n a t i v e p r o p o s a l to e r e c t it n e a r the g r a v e s of the m i n e r s in a s p e c i a l e n c l o s u r e b e s i d e the B u l l i C h u r c h of England cemetery was adopted. A b r o w n and g r e y o b e l i s k in S c o t t i s h g r a n i t e was e r e c t e d and it was a r r a n g e d that an u n v e i l i n g c e r e m o n y s h o u l d be p e r f o r m e d by the g o v e r n o r , L o r d C a r r i n g t o n , on the f i r s t a n n i v e r s a r y of the

14 15 disaster. A f t e r all a r r a n g e m e n t s w er e c o m p l e t e d b y the local c o m m i t t e e Sir H e n r y P a r k e s t e l e g r a p h e d that the m o n u m e n t was not r e a d y for u n v e i l i n g and the c e r e m o n y w a s c a n c e l l e d . D i s a p p o i n t e d at the turn of event s the m i n e r s h e l d a p u b l i c d e m o n s t r a t i o n at B u l l i p a r k o n the d a y selected. T h e m i n e r s of Bu ll i , N o r t h B u l l i and Coa l C l i f f m u s t e r e d at R o b b i n s v i l l e and m a r k e d to the O d d f e l l o w s ' Ha ll at B u l l i w h e r e t h e y w e r e j o i n e d by the O d d f e l l o w s , an d all m a r c h e d to the p a r k p a s t the c h u r c h g r o u n d s w h e r e s i x t y - t w o of t h o s e k i l l e d w e r e b u r i e d an d w h e r e the o b e l i s k w a s a l m o s t comple ted . T w e l v e h u n d r e d men, w o m e n and children were present. The o b e l i s k was e n c l o s e d in an iro n r a i l i n g in 1890 and t he re it s t a n d s today c a r r y i n g the n a m e s of those lost in the disaster. The m e m o r i a l was r e n o v a t e d b y the m i n e r s in 1939 and the last s u r v i v i n g w i d o w d i e d in 1942. T h e "boy C o p e " d i e d a g e d 84 at H u r s t v i l l e in 1952. C o a l p r o d u c t i o n r e s u m e d at the m i n e in July, w h e n r e p a i r s c o s t i n g £3000 had been effected. Th e f o u r - f o o t s ea m was f irst w o r k e d and a m o n t h later w o r k b e g a n o n the e i g h t - f o o t seam. The f o l l o w i n g y e a r s a w all c o l l i e r i e s w o r k i n g to c a p a c i t y and in W o l l o n g o n g h a r b o u r 19 s h i p s w e r e m o o r e d at one t i m e in S e p t e m b e r . T he n e w Port K e m b l a a l w a y s s a w t h r e e ships in the ba y and Coal C l i f f j e t t y was use d for l o a d i n g the w h o l e time the sea permitted. B u l l i j e t t y c o n t i n u e d to be u s e d d e s p i t e c o l l a p s e s in 1907 and 1912. At B u l l i J o h n E v a n s , f o r m e r l y m a n a g e r at M o u n t K e m b l a , b e c a m e m a n a g e r in 1889. In the f o l l o w i n g y e a r n a k e d lamps w e r e r e i n t r o d u c e d in p l ace of D a v y s a f e t y lamps, r e s u l t i n g in sev era l m i n e r s l e a v i n g the pit. In mos t m i nes , h o w e v e r , the use of s a f e t y lamps c o n t i n u e d u n t i l the o p e n i n g years of the t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y w h e n e l e c t r i c s a f e t y lamps w e r e i n t r o d u c e d into the m i n e s one b y one. The y e a r f o l l o w i n g the m i n e d i s a s t e r the N e w c a s t l e M i n e r s ' U n i o n m e n v i s i t e d I l l a w a r r a to a s s i s t the m i n e r s to put their u n i o n on a f i r m basi s, to o b v i a t e an y r e p e t i t i o n of the m i s f o r t u n e b r o u g h t a b o u t b y the f a i l u r e of the s t r ik e of 1887. J o h n - B . N i c h o l s o n a r r i v e d in A u s t r a l i a at that time a n d s oon b e c a m e s e c r e t a r y o f the min e r s ' union. He g a i n e d a seat as a L a b o u r M e m b e r of P a r l i a m e n t in 1891 an d h eld it u n t i l 1913. D u r i n g the d e c a d e p r i o r to the B u l l i m i n e d i s a s t e r the d e m a n d for I l l a w a r r a c o a l g r e w r api d l y . In an e ffo r t to m e e t it the Co al C l i f f Coal M i n i n g C o m p a n y w a s f o rm ed in 1877 to m i n e coal at the c o a s t " a b o u t six m i l e s to the n o r t h w a r d of B u l l i Coal C o m p a n y ' s w o r k s a n d W e s t m a c o t t ' s P as s" o n the v e r y site w h e r e the first coal s e a m was d i s c o v e r e d in A u s t r a l i a b y Bass. The c o m p a n y a p p o i n t e d T h o m a s Hale as m a n a g e r a n d A. De F l o n as o v e r s e e r . O p e r a t i o n s b e g a n on the " m a g n i f i c e n t b l a c k d i a m o n d s e a m p r e s e n t i n g i t s e l f j ust a b o v e h i g h w a t e r m a r k " on the s o u t h e r n p o r t i o n of the Sta nw e l l P a r k E s t a t e o r i g i n a l l y o w n e d b y Sir T h o m a s M i t c h e l l , a f t e r his d e a t h in 1855 by his s o n C a m p b e l l M i t c h e l l , and s u b s e q u e n t l y p u r c h a s e d b y J u d g e H a r g r a v e w h o in t u r n s old the s o u t h e r n p o r t i o n to Hon. A l e x a n d e r S t u a r t , M.L.A. w h o a l s o s e c u r e d the m i n e r a l r i g h t s of the e s t a t e e x t e n d i n g n o r t h w a r d s a l o n g the h e a d w a t e r s of the H a c k i n g Creek, later c a l l e d L i l y v a l e . The c o m p a n y o p e r a t e d in " the B i ght at Coal Cliff, the d e e p e s t i n d e n t a t i o n in the c o a s t b e t w e e n B u l l i and Port H a c k i n g " .

F r o m the n a r r o w b r i d l e t r a c k r u n n i n g n o r t h w a r d s f r o m C l i f t o n a r o a d had b e e n f o r m e d to a point a b ov e the s it e s e l e c t e d for the j e t t y and a t i mb er s l i d e w a s b uil t do wn the 120 foot c l iff for d e l i v e r y of the m a t e r i a l s . T u r p e n t i n e timbe r was us ed in the c o n s t r u c t i o n of the j e t t y w h i c h e x t e n d e d in to the o p e n sea 400 feet, b e i n g s h e l t e r e d o n l y by a s u b m e r g e d reef. The top of the jetty, twe nty feet a b o v e sea level, c a r r i e d on its i nn er en d a d o u b l e line of rails w h i c h e nd ed at the p e r p e n d i c u l a r c l i f f s u f f i c i e n t l y low to e n a b l e the coal scr een s to be e r e c t e d a b o v e at the m o u t h of the t u n nel in the s ix- f o o t seam. S h i p p i n g was e a s y and p o s s i b l y not e a s i e r in any p art of the world. T h e r e was 1000 feet of c o v e r i n g ove r the coal. W o r k m e n r e a c h e d the m i n e fr om the ro ad a bove b y rope ladders, and c o t t a g e s for m i n e r s and m a n a g e r w e r e e r e c t e d on a sm all s he lf 250 feet a b o v e and to the s o u t h of the mine. The " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " of S e p t e m b e r 25, 1877 said, " T h i s n u c l e u s of a v i l l a g e is n a m e d Clifton, the o b j e c t b e i ng to c o n t i n u e the h i s t o r i c nam e of Coal C l i f f as far as p o s s i b l e " . T h e need for a sch ool at C l i f t o n and for the i m p r o v e m e n t of the r o a d to B u l l i - a m e r e b u s h t r a c k a l o n g the sea front and ove r the h e a d l a n d s - w a s m e n t i o n e d . The f irst c a r g o was ta ken a w a y in J a n u a r y 1878 on the s t e a m c o l l i e r E ag le w h i c h had landed iron and m a c h i n e r y for the m i n e an d jetty. The c o l l i e r to ok 20 0 tons, the first 100 tons b e i n g l o a d e d in an hour. Alexander S tua r t , Si r J o h n R o b e r t s o n and Hon. W i l l i a m B e d e D a i l e y we re p r e s e n t to w i t n e s s the event, to c e l e b r a t e w h i c h a d a y ' s pay was g r a n t e d to e v e r y employee. T h e g r e a t e r p o r t i o n of the j e t t y w a s w a s h e d a w a y in Ju ne and a n e w j e t t y e r e c t e d four feet hi ghe r. E i g h t y m e n w e r e e m p l o y e d at the m ine. T w o s t e a m c o l l i e r s w e r e o r d e r e d f ro m G l a s g o w . T h e y w e r e la un che d as the H i l d a and the H e r g a in M a r c h 1879 and a r r i v e d in A u s t r a l i a in June. M e a n w h i l e the Ne O b l i e and T a s m a n i a loaded coa l r e g u l a r l y at C l i f t o n jetty. A f t e r s u c c e s s f u l l y o p e n i n g the m i n e Hale left for S y d n e y in 1880 and C h a r l e s H a r p e r was a p p o i n t e d m a n a g e r , in t u r n h a n d i n g o v e r to C h a r l e s Stuart in 1883. An a v e r a g e of 140 m e n was m a i n t a i n e d on p r o d u c t i o n to the new century. H al e d i e d at G r a f t o n a ged 65 on M a r c h 16, 1883. The small coal, for w h i c h there was no dem an d, w a s at first t h r ow n i nto the sea. The c o l l a p s e of the j e t t y in 1881 b r o u g h t w o r k to a s t a n d s t i l l and m i n e r s s o u gh t w o r k e l s e w h e r e w h i l s t a w a i t i n g its rep ai r. Mining operations w e r e fr au ght w i t h d i f f i c u l t y , lan d s l i p s i n t e r f e r i n g w i t h the w o r k at times. In J a n u a r y 1879 a s lip of 20 0 tons of e a r t h and sto n e s n o r t h of the tunne l m o u t h g a v e c aus e for alarm. D e s p i t e d i f f i c u l t y the p r o g r e s s of the m i n e wa s u n e q u a l l e d in the c o l o n y and a c h i e v e d i m m e d i a t e success. Although the j e t t y s u f f e r e d d a m a g e it was c o n s t a n t l y r e p a i r e d a n d c o n t i n u o u s l y used for s hipping. A n e w I l l a w a r r a Coal M i n i n g C o m p a n y w as f o r m e d in 1883 w h e n W. W i l e y at Coal C l i f f turne d the first sod of the first s h a f t in I l l awa rr a. T h e shaft was in the c e n t r e of the c o m p a n y ' s land, w a s 100 feet d e e p and n e a r the r o u t e s u r v e y e d for the p r o p o s e d I l l a w a r r a r a i l w a y , f a ci ng the o c e a n "not t h i r t y - f o u r m i l e s f r o m Sy dn ey" . T h e c o m p a n y p r o p o s e d to s u b d i v i d e the land for t ow n lots.

16 17

M e a n w h i l e a m o v e was m a d e in J a n u a r y 1878 to o p e n a min e at N o r t h B u l l i E s t a t e " a b o u t e l e v e n m i l e s n or th of W o l l o n g o n g " for w h i c h the N o r t h B u l l i C o a l a nd Iron M i n i n g C o m p a n y L i m i t e d was f o r med in 1876 w i t h a c a p i t a l of £2 0 , 0 0 0 . The f o u r - f o o t s e a m was o p e n e d out and it was p r o p o s e d to e r e c t a s h i p p i n g j e tty u n d e r the lee of L o n g N o s e P o i n t but little w a s a c h i e v e d . In 1884 a n o t h e r c om pan y, the N o r t h I l l a w a r r a Coal Compa ny , p r o p o s e d to o p e n two or t hre e c o l l i e r i e s b e t w e e n Billi and C l i f t o n w i t h a jetty on the n o r t h of Hicks ' Point, a ls o c a l l e d Long Nose Point, at N o r t h Bulli. T h e a r e a k n own up to that time as N o r t h B u l l i r e c e i v e d a n e w n a m e " A u s t e r m e r e " w i t h the o p e n i n g of the coal m i n e b u t that n ame was a l r e a d y in us e for a p la ce b e t w e e n B o wr al and M o s s V a l e and it was c h a n g e d to A u s t i n m e r e by n e w s p a p e r s in 1887. M i n e s D e p a r t m e n t re ports, h o w e v e r , u s e d " A u s t e r m e r e " u n til 1895 w h e n " A u s t i n m e r e " was s u b s t i t u t e d , a l t h o u g h by that ti me o t h e r s o u r c e s had d r o p p e d the final "e". At the N o r t h I l l a w a r r a m i n e the m i l e of r a i l w a y f r o m m i n e to jetty, p a s s i n g b e n e a t h the I l l a w a r r a r a i l w a y not far n o r t h of A u s t i n m e r sta t i o n , w a s c o m p l e t e d in D e c e m b e r 1886. Th e j e tty w a s 860 feet long. Production began a n d i n c r e a s e d r ap idl y, g i v i n g e m p l o y m e n t to o v e r 300 m e n for ten y ea r s . C o a l l o a d i n g b e g a n in J a n u a r y 1887, the s t e a m e r W a r a t a h of 268 tons b e i n g c h a r t e r e d to c a r r y the coal. In 1888 the p r o d u c t i o n of 1 2 3 , 0 0 0 tons wa s s u r p a s s e d o n l y by M o u n t K e m b l a on the s o u t h e r n field. In J u n e 1887 the v e s s e l W a r a t a h was w a s h e d b r o a d s i d e on to the r oc ks 300 y a rds n o r t h of the j e t t y w h i c h was just n o r t h of the later site of " H e a d l a n d s " . Its e n g i n e and f i t t i n g s we re s a l v a g e d in A u g u s t and the h ull left to be d e s t r o y e d b y s t o rm s. T h e b o i l e r is s til l there. In 1889 a n o t h e r m i n e was o p e n e d b y the c o m p a n y a b o u t a m i l e f a r t h e r north, l i n k i n g b y rail to the jetty, c r o s s i n g the m a i n r o a d and I l l a w a r r a r a i l w a y on the level. The two r a i l w a y s m e t at the jetty. The Austinmer colliery c l o s e d at the end of 1895 and the m o r e n o r t h e r l y , N o r t h Bulli, m i n e in 1898. Th e j e t t y was a b a n d o n e d and d e s t r o y e d b y fire in 1915. T h e c o n s t r u c t i o n of the I l l a w a r r a r a i l w a y in the e i g h t i e s m a d e p o s s i b l e d e v e l o p m e n t in the w i l d c o u n t r y n o r t h of C oa l C l i f f on the h e a d w a t e r s of H a c k i n g C r e e k in the P a r i s h of H e a t h c o t e . Coal w a s k n o w n to e x i s t t h e re w h e n in 1884 at " H e a t h c o t e " , later c a l l e d C a m p C r e e k and then H e l e n s b u r g h , C h a r l e s H a r p e r c a r r y i n g out d r i l l i n g o p e r a t i o n s . Coa l was s t r u c k at a d e p t h of 847 feet b e s i d e the 28 m i l e peg of the r a i l w a y , on land o w n e d b y the C u m b e r l a n d Coal and Iron M i n i n g C o m p a n y , w h i c h h e l d 18, 000 a cre s t a k e n up in J u l y 1883 by J a m e s F l e t c h e r M . L . A . and J o h n C o g h l a n w h o f o r m e d the c o m p a n y in Novem ber . On C a m p Creek, w h e r e w a t e r was a b u n d a n t , H a r p e r f a i l e d to find coal at 726 feet and t r ied a g a i n I t; m i l e s east w h e n a s e a m six feet t h i c k was d i s c o v e r e d . P l a n s w e r e m a d e to s i n k a shaft on the s ame level four chai ns from the p r o p o s e d r a i l w a y line. T h e o p e n i n g of the m i n e was e x p e c t e d to p e r m i t co al b ein g sent to the s h i p ' s sides in Port J a c k s o n , thus m a k i n g it u n n e c e s s a r y for t hem to sail to N e w c a s t l e to coal. T h e c o n s t r u c t i o n of the I l l a w a r r a r a i l w a y s o u t h of W a t e r f a l l m a d e it p o s s i b l e to get an e n g i n e to the m i n e in S e p t e m b e r 1886 and w o r k began. Th e c o m p a n y had a 99 y e a r lease. In 1887 the M e t r o p o l i t a n C oal C o m p a n y was f o r m e d w i t h g r e a t e r c a p i t a l in p l a c e of the f o r m e r

company, to w o r k the area from M a d d e n ' s P l a i n s to H e a t h c o t e . Boring o p e r a t i o n s h a d r e v e a l e d a s e a m 12 feet 3 inches t h i c k at H e l e n s b u r g h at a d e p t h of 1100 feet and the c o m p a n y laid out a t o w n s h i p a b o ve the co ll i e r y . The s h a f t w a s sunk 16 feet in d ia me ter , the first sod h a v i n g b e e n t u r n e d on M a r c h 3, 1886, by Sir R o b ert Wisdom. By J u l y 1888 ten truc ks of coa l per w e e k w e r e b e i n g sent to Sydney. On A u g u s t 4 the m a n a g e r , C h a r l e s H a r p e r , wa s k i l l e d w h i l s t d r a w i n g an e n gin e to an air shaft. He was to h ave b e e n b u r i e d in the P r e s b y t e r i a n c e m e t e r y at W o o n o n a b ut b y an u n d e r t a k e r ' s m i s t a k e w a s i n t e r r e d at B u l l i C h u r c h of E n g l a n d c e m e t e r y . His friends e r e c t e d o n his g r a v e a m e m o r i a l w h i c h m a y be s e e n t h e r e to this d a y n e a r the B u l l i d i s a s t e r graves. The e n g i n e and w i n d i n g ge ar for the 1100 foot s h a f t w e r e p l a c e d in o p e r a t i o n the f o l l o w i n g y e a r and p r o s p e c t i n g at O t f o r d r e a c h e d co al at 661 feet. H e l e s b u r g h sent 300 tons of coal to S y d n e y d a i l y in 1890, u s i n g three g o v e r n m e n t trains. In 1891 it was d e s c r i b e d as " t h e m o s t p e r f e c t l y a r r a n g e d m i n e in A u s t r a l i a " and was i n s p e c t e d b y the G o v e r n o r of N e w S o u t h Wal es, L o r d J e r s e y . Th e m i n e had the larg est w i n d i n g gea r in A u s t r a l i a , r a i s i n g a s e v e n ton load in 28 s ec onds. In 1906 the N e w S o u t h W a l e s Government Railways to ok 2 0 0 , 0 0 0 tons per a n n u m and p r o d u c t i o n has c o n t i n u e d and g r o w n fr om that time, p r o v i d i n g a v a l u a b l e i n d u s t r y to the country and supporting the m i n i n g township of H e l e n s b u r g h for the d e v e l o p m e n t of w h i c h it was r e s p o n s i b l e . D u r i n g the y e a r s of d e v e l o p m e n t of the m i n e s of n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a the mining industry began to revive at Bellambi and Woonona after a q u a r t e r - c e n t u r y of idlene ss, d u r i n g w h i c h B u l l i b e c a m e the c e n t r e of the coal t r a d e of that part of the coast. The b e g i n n i n g of 1889 saw a r e v i v a l of m i n i n g at W o o n o n a and B e l l a m b i or S o u t h B u l l i . After Hale's early f i n a n c i a l f a i l u r e the W o o n o n a c o l l i e r y r e m a i n e d u n w o r k e d for 25 y e a r s d u r i n g w h i c h the t r a m w a y and j e t t y r o t t e d a w a y and r e v e r t e d to n a t u r e . A ne w B e l l a m b i Coal C o m p a n y u n d e r M i t c h e l l c o m m e n c e d b y a r r a n g e m e n t w i t h the O s b o r n e family. T h e n e w c o l l i e r y was o p e n e d on the r a n g e a b o v e W o o n o n a b e t w e e n two t u n n e l s by w h i c h the for me r m i n e had b e e n w o r k e d b y Hale, the old a d i t s b e i n g u s e d for v e n t i l a t i o n . A n e w j e t t y of t u r p e n t i n e pi les wa s e r e c t e d a little n o r t h of S o u t h Bulli j e t t y b y A. De F l o n to a l e n g t h of 1300 feet. T h e n e w c o l l i e r y was to s u p p l y coal to the f i r m of M i t c h e l l and W o o l c o t t - W a l e y . Th e c o m p a n y had £6 0,0 00 c a p i t a l and r e b u i l t the r a i l w a y to B e l l a m b i , f o l l o w i n g the r o u t e of the p r e v i o u s line, w i t h a b r i d g e 300 feet long s p a n n i n g the c r e e k or l a g o o n n e a r B e l l a m b i h a r b o u r . T h e m i n e was f o r m a l l y o p e n e d on N o v e m b e r 9, 1889 b y Sir H e n r y P ark e s , P r e m i e r of New S o u t h Wale s, w h o t r a v e l l e d f r o m S y d n e y in a s p e c i a l t r ain a c c o m p a n i e d b y L a d y P a r k es . T h e t r a in was b a c k e d a l o n g the c o m p a n y ' s line ac ro s s the m a i n r o a d at W o o n o n a just s o uth of G r a y S t r e e t to the site of the m i n e and w a s th en run d o w n to the j e t t y at B e l l a m b i for luncheon. M i t c h e l l r e t i r e d in 1892, l e a v i n g W o o l c o t t - W a l e y in charg e. He d i e d in 1897. At the same time S o u t h B u ll i mine, o r i g i n a l l y T a y l o r and W a l k e r ' s , was r e o p e n e d w i t h W i l l i a m W i l s o n as m a n a g e r , b r i n g a n e w B e l l a m b i v i l l a g e n e a r the i n t e r s e c t i o n of the I l l a w a r r a r a i l w a y and the S o u t h B ulli C o m p a n y ' s railway. The m i n e e m p l o y e d 270 m e n in 1889 and has c o n t i n u e d to e m p l o y a

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like number since. It was p u r c h a s e d b y E b e n e z e r V i c k e r y in 1890 and b y the B e l l a m b i Co al C o m p a n y in 1900. T h e l a b o u r t r o u b l e s of the 1890s w i t h their s t r i k e s w e r e r e f l e c t e d in the m i n e s and the W o o n o n a w o m e n b l o c k e d the coal line to free l a b o u r e r s as the B u l l i w o m e n had d o n e three y e ars before. In J u n e 1891 gas w a s d i s c o v e r e d in the S o u t h B u l l i m i n e and a light e x p l o s i o n r e s u l t e d in the d e a t h of one miner. T h e n e w i n c l i n e was b ui lt at S o u t h B u l l i in 1909 to i n c r e a s e the o u t p u t , n e w e n d l e s s ro pe h a u l a g e and a n e w t u n nel b e i n g i n s tal le d. Horse t r a n s p o r t c o n t i n u e d in the m i n e i t se lf as it d o e s to this d a y but an e n d l e s s belt o n the h i l l s i d e r e p l a c e d the i n c l i n e in 1956. Underground S o u t h B u l l i l i n k e d w i t h the old W o o n o n a m i n e and the r a i l w a y fr om W o o n o n a to the j e t t y w a s a b a n d o n e d e a r l y in the t w e n t i e t h cen tur y. L a n d s l i d e s on the m o u n t a i n s i d e in 1950 w i p e d out the ol d W o o n o n a i n c l i n e and t o d a y u n d e r g r o w t h p r e d o m i n a t e s w h e r e T h o mas Hale o r i g i n a l l y b e g a n the mine. .I F a r t h e r n o r t h the I l l a w a r r a Co al C o m p a n y p r o p o s e d in 1889 to o p e n a m i n e n e a r S o u t h C l i f t o n r a i l w a y p l a t f o r m a nd a n o t h e r a s h or t d i s t a n c e n o r t h of N o r t h B u l l i m i n e w i t h a r a i l w a y to N o r t h B u l l i j e t t y 2j m i l e s long. The S o u t h C l i f t o n m i n e was o p e n e d o p p o s i t e the S c a r b o r o u g h Hotel b y W. W i l s o n w i t h a 1 5 0 - f o o t shaft in 1891 and p r o d u c t i o n beg an. E l e c t r i c i t y was i n s t a l l e d in 1902 b u t the p ick and shovel m i n i n g c o n t i n u e d , the coa l b e i n g d e s p a t c h e d to D a r l i n g H a r b o u r for ships' b u n k e r s . T h e m i n e c l o s e d in 1920. I

I

T h e n e w c e n t u r y saw the o p e n i n g of n e w c o l l i e r i e s and the d e v e l o p m e n t and m o d e r n i s a t i o n of e a r l i e r ones. A new c o l l i e r y wa s o p e n e d b e t w e e n A u s t i n m e r a n d S o u t h C l i f t o n in 1902. It was c a l l e d the N o r t h B ulli c o l l i e r y and r a i l s j o i n e d the g o v e r n m e n t railway. It w a s the d e v e l o p m e n t of a f o r m e r m i n e abandoned earlier because water impeded m i n i n g operations. As u s u a l on the s o u t h c o ast it had an i nc l i n e a b o v e the g o v e r n m e n t rai lwa y, on w h i c h in A u g u s t 1902 a n e w p l a t f o r m i n c o r p o r a t i n g a p o s t an d t e l e g r a p h o f f i c e and c a l l e d C o l e d a l e (the first a p p e a r a n c e of the n a me) , w a s opened. The mine wa s o p e n e d and o p e r a t e d b y Cliff, H y d e an d Cater. T. C a t e r was m a n a g e r an d 100 h a n d s w e r e e m p l o y e d . Its o p e n i n g was c e l e b r a t e d w i t h a b a n q u e t in N o v e m b e r 1903. S u l l i v a n lo ng w a l l coal c u t t i n g m a c h i n e s w ere i n s t a l l e d in 1904. C o k e w o r k s to m a k e 100 tons a d a y w e r e b u i l t in 1905. Two l o c o m o t i v e s an d 150 w a g g o n s w e r e u se d and 50 o v e n s w e r e built. T he n u m b e r w a s i n c r e a s e d to 100 in 1908 an d c o k e w a s s ent to C o b a r and E s k b a n k (Lithgow). Coal was sent to Po rt K e m b l a for s h i p p i n g f r o m the N o r t h B u l l i C o m p a n y ' s j e t t y there. T h e co ke w o r k s t h r i v e d for a n u m b e r of y e a r s u nti l the m i n e c l o s e d in 1926. A t t e m p t s w e r e m a d e to r e o p e n the m i n e and c ok e w o r k s in the d e p r e s s i o n y e a rs of the e a r l y t h i r t i e s and t hen t h e y w e r e abandoned. L i t t l e r e m a i n s on a level spo t n e a r C o l e d a l e s t a t i o n t o d a y to m a r k the site w h e r e the o v e n s stood. T h e m i n e i t s e l f still o p e r a t e s on a s m a l l scale, the p r o d u c t b e i n g c a r r i e d a w a y b y m o t o r t rucks. At T h i r r o u l the first E x c e l s i o r c o l l i e r y w a s o p e n e d by J.S. K i r t o n in 1900. The N e w E x c e l s i o r c o l l i e r y was o p e n e d b y T h o m a s R y a n and P. C a r r o l l b e l o w the B ull i L o o k o u t in 1905 w i t h an i n c l i n e f r o m w h i c h the co al was c a r t e d in d r a y s at the rate of 14 tons d a i l y to the r a i l w a y st at i o n , f rom w h i c h it wa s d e s p a t c h e d to S y d n e y to fill s m a l l o r d e r s . P r o d u c t i o n r o s e to s e v e n t y - f i v e tons d a i l y and a c o m p a n y formed. A n e w t u n nel wa s o p e n e d in 19 14 and p r o d u c t i o n s t e p p e d up to 750 tons daily. A n i n c l i n e to the s o u t h

c o a s t r a i l w a y w h e r e coal scr e e n s wer e e r e c t e d was b uilt in e n d l e s s r o p e s y s t e m o p e r a t e d in the m i n e and the coal c o n t i n u e s for r a i l w a y pur p o s e s at T h i r r o u l yard.

1916. An to be used

N e w p r a c t i c e s in the use of coal bro u g h t the e s t a b l i s h m e n t of coke o ve ns a l o n g the coast. Th e sites of the m a j o r i t y w e r e at first n ea r the p i t - h e a d s but later m a n y w e r e c l o s e d and d e m o l i s h e d and the co al was sent d i r e c t to Port K e m b l a ovens a f t e r the s t e e l w o r k s o p e n e d in 1927. The B u l l i coke ov ens were b u i l t for G e o r g e A d a m s and m a n a g e d by W i l l i a m W r i g h t n e a r the n o r t h - e a s t c o r n e r of the coal c o m p a n y ' s c r o s s i n g of the g o v e r n m e n t line, twen ty b e i n g p l a c e d in se rvi ce on J u l y 20, 1889, t u r n i n g the s m a ll coal into coke. Th e n u m b e r of o v ens was later i n c r e a s e d to forty. A loo pli ne to link the c o m p a n y ' s line w i t h the g o v e r n m e n t r a i l w a y w h i c h it c r o s s e d on the level was b uilt in 1890 and the first load of 400 tons of c oke was d e s p a t c h e d f r o m B ulli to B r o k e n Hill v i a Port Pirie. C. P l i m m e r w as foreman, s u c c e e d e d by J. Morgan. The g r o w t h of Port K e m b l a w i t h b e t t e r s h e l t e r than the c o a s t a l j e t t i e s d r e w the coa l of several of the c o a s t a l m i n e s for s h i p m e n t there. Trains t r a v e l l e d b y a lo op lin e fr om the m a i n line at U n a n d e r r a u nt il the Po rt K e m b l a line was b ui lt from W o l l o n g o n g in 1917. T h e old B ull i j e t t y was a l s o u sed for load in g coal and cok e for v a r i o u s c en t r e s . The a p p e a r a n c e of i n d u s t r i e s at Port K e m b l a in the t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y i n c r e a s e d the d e m a n d for B u l l i cok e w h i c h was us ed b y all p r i n c i p a l s m e l t i n g c o m p a n i e s and in San Francisco. T w e n t y n e w o v e n s w e r e a d d e d at B u l l i in 1908. Coke w or ks of 100 o ve ns w e r e b u ilt in 1903 at the i n t e r s e c t i o n of the B e l l a m b i C o m p a n y ' s line and the g o v e r n m e n t r a i l w a y h a l f a m i l e n o r t h of B e l l a m b i s t a t i o n for the B r o k e n Hill P r o p r i e t a r y . T h e y o p e r a t e d for a q u a r t e r of a c e n t u r y b e f o r e a b a n d o n m e n t , the coke b e i n g s h i p p e d to B r o k e n Hill v i a Port K e m b l a and Port Pirie. At S ou th C l i f t o n 32 coke o v e n s w e r e b u i l t in 1899 and o p e r a t e d at the mine. T h e y c o n t i n u e d in use u n t i l 1919 w h e n the c o l l i e r y was c l o s e d an d a b a n d o n e d , l e a v i n g the r e m a i n i n g c o a l to be e x t r a c t e d f rom the a d j o i n i n g m i n e at W o m b a r r a , w h i c h in m o r e r e c e n t y e a r s has b e e n o p e r a t e d on the e n d l e s s belt pr in c i p l e . The C o a l C l i f f M i n i n g E s t a t e and s t e a m e r s H i l d a and H e r g a w e r e a c q u i r e d in 1892 by Hon. E b e n e z e r V i c k e r y M.L . C . and J o h n K e r r Cl ark e. The steamers w e r e let on c h a r t e r and p l i e d w i t h o t h e r c o a s t a l c a r g o e s as w e l l as C l i f t o n coal. E. V i c k e r y and Sons too k o v e r in 1902 and Coal C l i f f C o l l i e r i e s L i m i t e d in 1909. The c o l l i e r H e r g a p lie d r e g u l a r l y f r o m the C l i f t o n j e t t y but in 1910 a shaft was s u n k at S t o n e y C r e e k to c o n n e c t w i t h the t unn e l of the o r i g i n a l C l i f t o n m ine. T h i s u s h e r e d in a n e w era in the d e s p a t c h of coal by tr ain and the d e c l i n e in the d e s p a t c h of coa l from C l i f t o n j e t t y u nti l it was a b a n d o n e d s oo n a f t e r w a r d s . It was d e m o l i s h e d in 1924. The o r i g i n a l m i n e t h r e a t e n i n g to c r e e p and c r u s h the p i l l a r s wa s a b a n d o n e d in favour of the n e w mine. The reconstruction al so brought the c o n s t r u c t i o n n e a r the e n t r a n c e to the r a i l w a y tunn el of the Coal C l i f f c o k e o v e n s w h i c h are the o n l y r e m a i n i n g e x a m p l e s of the e a r l y i n d u s t r y a l o n g the r a i l w a y in the Bu lli dis t r i c t , their g l o w s e e n f r o m the night t r ai ns b e i n g p a r t i c u l a r l y impr es siv e.

20 21

T h e t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y s a w the c o n s o l i d a t i o n of e x i s t i n g m i n e s and the abandonment of smaller ones, leaving a n u m b e r of a b a n d o n e d tunnels scattered along the s e a m on the m o u n t a i n s i d e . M i n i n g c o n t i n u e d at H e l e n s b u r g h , C oal Cliff, Wo mb a r r a , Coledale, T h i r r o u l , Bulli Pass, B u l l i a n d S o u t h B u ll i d u r i n g the first h alf of the t w e n t i e t h c ent u r y , d u r i n g w h i c h u n i o n i s m c o n t i n u e d to grow. The Coal M i n e r s ' F e d e r a t i o n was f o r m e d in 1908. In 1909 a g rea t coal miners' stri ke on the s o u t h c o a s t d e v e l o p e d w h e n the m e n c l a i m e d that the c o n c i l i a t i o n b o a r d had c o n c e d e d n o t h i n g d u r i n g the p r e c e d i n g twelve months. The m i n e h ors e s w e r e t a k en out to grass; coal s t o c k s b e c a m e short and b u s i n e s s b e c a m e d e p r e s s e d . The s t r i k e b e c a m e a s t r u g g l e b e t w e e n the m i n e r s and the G o v e r n m e n t w h i c h o r d e r e d the o w n e r s to r e o p e n the pits. P e t e r B owling, the Mi ne r s ' U n i o n leader, v i s i t e d the c o a s t to a d d r e s s the m i n e r s as did Hon. W.M. H u g h es, w h o s e m o t o r ca r b r o k e d o w n en r o u t e l e a v i n g h i m to c o m p l e t e the j o u r n e y by ho rse and sulky. B a l l o t s of m i n e r s r e s u l t e d a l m o s t evenly. The G o v e r n m e n t p ass e d the I n d u s t r i a l D i s p u t e s A m e n d m e n t Act and p r o s e c u t e d the lead er s for o r g a n i s i n g the st ri k e . P e t e r B o w l i n g spent n i n e m o n t h s in G o u l b u r n Gaol. A f t e r four m o n t h s the m i n e r s f a v o u r e d r e t u r n p e n d i n g a d e c i s i o n b y the w a g e s b o ard which, w h e n g i v e n six m o n t h s later, r e d u c e d the h ou rs of w o r k and i n c r e a s e d mine rs' pay, b a s i n g its d e c i s i o n on a s e l l i n g p ric e of 8s 7d per ton for coal. , A g a i n f r o m M a r c h to M a y 1913 a strike of m i n e r s caused an i n d u s t r i a l upheaval an d there was much distress. T h e Mi ne r s ' F e d e r a t i o n has s i nce p l a y e d an a c t i v e par t in p r o t e c t i n g and a d v a n c i n g the i n t e r e s t s of the men. T h e t w e n t i e t h cen tur y, too, s a w the d e v e l o p m e n t of m i n e r e s c u e e q u i p m e n t . B ull i had se en the d i s a s t e r of 1887 and the d i s a s t e r at M o u n t K e m b l a in 1902 u n d e r l i n e d the n e c e s s i t y for p r o v i d i n g a p p a r a t u s to e n a b l e t hose not k i l l e d to be b r o u g h t out a l ive and the r e s c u e r s to e n t e r and r e t u r n t h r o u g h gas in times of e m e r g e n c y . The d i s a s t e r at B e l l b i r d on the N e w c a s t l e field in 1923 was f o l l o w e d b y the p a s s i n g of laws r e q u i r i n g p r o p r i e t o r s to e s t a b l i s h and m a i n t a i n r e s c u e s tations. The first we re e s t a b l i s h e d at C ess n o c k , C o c k l e C r e e k and L i t h g o w . The fourth, e s t a b l i s h e d at B e l l a m b i to s er ve the t h i r t e e n m i n e s fr om W o n g a w i l l i to H e l e n s b u r g h , cost £ 1 8 , 0 0 0 and was c o m p l e t e d in 1927 b e s i d e the P r i n c e ' s H i g h w a y near its c r o s s i n g of the S o u t h B u lli coa l t r a m l i n e . Its e q u i p m e n t i n c l u d e s a wel l e q u i p p e d r e sc ue car, r e v i v i n g o u t f i t s , o x y g e n c y l i n d e r s , s t r e t c h e r s , s a f e t y lamps, p o r t a b l e t e l e p h o n e w i t h 10 00 y a r d s of w i re, f i f t e e n P r o t o o u t f i t s an d a c a g e of c an ari es . R e g u l a r d r i l l s are h e l d b y the r e s c u e team w h i c h is w e l l a c q u a i n t e d w i t h all the m i n e s in its area. A f t e r the First W o r l d W a r the n e c e s s i t y for m o r e h y g i e n i c f a c i l i t i e s for c o a s t a l coal m i n e r s wa s first p r e s s e d by W. D a v i e s , M . L . A . , a f t e r a v i s i t to B r o k e n Hill w h e r e he saw hot and c old s h o w e r s at the m i ne s, the m i n e r s c o m i n g and g o i n g in c l e a n cl ot h e s . P r i o r to that I l l a w a r r a m i n e r s and co ke w o r k e r s t r a v e l l e d to an d fro m w o r k s o m e t i m e s up to t w e l v e m i l e s in t r a in s in wet and g r i m y c l o t h e s c o v e r e d w i t h p e r s p i r a t i o n a n d coal dust. The p r a c t i c e was d a n g e r o u s to h e a l t h and c a u s e d d i s c o m f o r t not o n l y to the miners t hem s e l v e s but a l s o to o t h e r m e m b e r s of the c o m m u n i t y . Its d e g r a d i n g m o r a l e f f e c t was f u r t h e r e m p h a s i s e d w h e n the m i n e r on a r r i v a l h o m e had to take a b a t h in front of the k i t c h e n fire. In the tiny min e r s ' h o u s e s of those days there was n e i t h e r b a t h r o o m n o r p l a c e for the f a m i l y to

r e t i r e w h i l s t the m i n e r m i n e r s b u i l t bag h u m pie s the b o i l e r house to w a s h led w i t h the i n s t a l l a t i o n

washed. Hi s hea lth s u f f e r e d in d rau ght s. Som e near the m i n e s u si ng k e r o s e n e tins for w a t e r from t h e m s e l v e s b e f o r e g o i n g home. Coal C l i f f c o l l i e r y of s how e r s and c h a n g e ro oms in Augu st 1918.

In an e x c e l l e n t s p e e c h W. Davi es, an e x - m i n e r m e m b e r of the L e g i s l a t i v e A s s e m b l y , p r e s s e d the M i n e s ( Am e n d m e n t ) Bill b e f o r e the House, w h i c h p a s s e d the m e a s u r e r e q u i r i n g m i n e o w n e r s to prov id e b a t h i n g f a c i l i t i e s and o t h e r c o m f o r t s for the men. M i d - t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y c o l l i e r y o w n e r s in t h ei r turn are f o l l o w i n g not o n l y the lette r but the s p i rit of the law, p o s s i b l y the o u t s t a n d i n g e x a m p l e b e i n g that of the A u s t r a l i a n Iron and Steel c o m p a n y w h i c h has a b l o c k of b u i l d i n g s at its m o d e r n i s e d B u l l i c o l l i e r y w h e r e t o i l e t f a c i li tie s, if not s up eri or, are equal to any w h i c h m i g h t be found in the h o m e s of the men. .1 M i n e r s t o d ay travel to and f r o m w o r k in c l e a n a tt i r e , in c o m f o r t and he al t h , and c a n n o t be d i s t i n g u i s h e d fr om o t her c i t i z e n s w h o in for m e r y e ars sh u n n e d t h e m in public t r a n s p o r t in an effo rt to p r o t e c t their o w n a t t i r e and s e l f - r e s p e c t . The m o d e r n m i n e r has h igh m o r a l e , d e s e r v e s and e a r n s the re s p e c t of his fe llo w-men, and in his o c c u p a t i o n c o n t r i b u t e s a m o r e than o r d i n a r y s har e to the n a t i o n a l eco no my. ‘

I

I

P r o d u c t i o n at the m i n e s has i n c r e a s e d year by y e a r to m e e t the g re at d e m a n d s of the steel and a l l i e d ind u s t r i e s and a c e n t u r y of m i n i n g on the s o u t h c o a s t dr aws to a c l ose w i t h the o u t s t a n d i n g n e w d e v e l o p m e n t of the old B u l l i c o l l i e r y by A u s t r a l i a n Iron and Steel Ltd. B a c k in the ninet ie s, a f te r the m i n e was r e - o p e n e d f o l l o w i n g the di sa s t e r , the b u r n t s e a m and faults w e r e s truck, r e s u l t i n g e v e n t u a l l y in s l o w i n g d o w n the m i n e and in its c l o s i n g a f t e r £ 1 0 , 0 0 0 had b e e n e x p e n d e d in a f r u i t l e s s a t t e m p t to find the coal seam. A f t e r a time the "A" and "B" pits w e r e wor ked . For the latter a s t e a m t r a c t i o n e n g i n e was i n s t a l l e d in 1898 w h e n it was feared that it w o u l d f r i g h t e n the h o r s e s of the n e i g h b o u r h o o d . G e o r g e Adams, licensee of T a t t e r s a l l ' s Hotel in Pitt Street, Sydney, b o u g h t the "A" m i n e for £ 1 0 ,0 00 and in 1895 r e c o n s t r u c t e d it and the j e t t y and b o o s t e d p r o d uc tio n. In 1909 w o r k a g a i n l a n g u i s h e d w h e n a n o t h e r b a s a l t d y k e or f ault was struck, d e l a y i n g w o r k u nt il b o r i n g b e h i n d the B u l l i M o u n t a i n found the s e a m at 1168 feet deep. A g a i n in 1925 c i n d e r e d coal w as s t r u c k and a b a n d o n m e n t t h r eat ene d, as in those day s it c o u l d not be u s e d in in dus tr y, u n til b o r i n g a h ea d f o und the e i g h t - f o o t seam. W i t h the m i n e in three m i l e s a n e w v e n t i l a t o r s h a f t b e c a m e n e c e s s a r y . It was s u n k two m i l e s s o u t h of Bulli L o o k i n g and c o n c r e t e d f r o m top to b o t t o m , b e i n g the first of its k i n d in A u s t r a l i a and the first in the w o r l d to be p o u r e d d i r e c t f rom the m i x e r to the sides of the shaft. At that time the m i n e was v a l u e d at £350,000. T h e E s t a t e of G e o r g e A d a m s c o n t i n u e d to w o r k the m i n e as the y ea rs passed, a l t h o u g h it was n o t c o n s i d e r e d to be f l o u r i s h i n g , h a v i n g o n l y 130 e m p l o y e e s w h e n in 1936, w i t h the i n c r e a s i n g n e e d s of Por t K e m b l a steel m a n u f a c t u r e , A u s t r a l i a n Iron and Steel Ltd b o u g h t it. W h e n the m i n e w as taken ove r it w as b e i n g w o r k e d w i t h p i c k m i n i n g and h or se w h e e l i n g wi th o n e - t o n skips on a t w e n t y - f o u r inch g a u g e line w i t h an e n d l e s s rope 3£ miles long, t r a v e l l i n g at two m i l e s per hour, s kips b e i n g d r a w n f r o m the w o r k i n g faces b y pit pon ies , as had b e e n d o n e in m i n i n g from

22 23

the e a r l i e s t days. To increas e and f a c i l i t a t e p r o d u c t i o n the c o m p a n y d e c i d e d to a b a n d o n the old tu nne ls w h i c h f o l l o w e d the coal seams a n d had u n e v e n g rad e s an d rope h a u l a g e to buld a n e w tunnel 2? m i l e s long w i t h a s l i g h t o u t w a r d s d o w n g r a d i e n t to e l i m i n a t e the i n c l i n e and to instal 25 ton d i e s e l l o c o m o t i v e s on the m a i n h a u l a g e roads. T h e s e tr av e l l e d at 14 m i l e s per h o u r d r a w i n g 35 to 40 a x l e l e s s skips on a 3 feet 6 inches g a u g e r a i l w a y a d o p t e d as s t a n d a r d in the mines, e a c h ski p c a r r y i n g ten tons of coal. T e n - t o n e l e c t r i c l o c o m o t i v e s h a u led the coal s kips from the face to the m a i n h a u l a g e road. Th e n e w tunnel was c o m p l e t e d in 1953 and the f o r m e r tunnel h i g h e r up the m o u n t a i n s i d e and the i n c l i n e a b an don ed. A f t e r m e e t i n g c o a l the m a i n tunnel p r o c e e d e d f a r t h e r to r e ach e v e n t u a l l y a d i s t a n c e of s e v e n m i l e s fr om the tunnel mo ut h . By a r i g i d t i m e - t a b l e tra ins arr i v e e v e r y 25 m i n u t e s at the B r a d f o r d coal b r e a k e r w h e r e the truc ks are a u t o m a t i c a l l y d r a w n in b y a cre eper, and tipp ed in a t i p p l e r or t u m b l e r and t r a n s f e r r e d to a line of e m p t i e s w h i c h are taken, a f t e r d e l i v e r i n g the full train, by the l o c o m o t i v e and r e t u r n e d i m m e d i a t e l y to the mine. T h e m i n e its e l f is f u l l y m e c h a n i s e d w i t h e l e c t r i c bo rer s, S u l l i v a n coal c u t t e r s and J e f f r e y - t y p e m e c h a n i s e d loaders, w a t e r s pra y s b e i n g use d in all o p e r a t i o n s to r e d u c e the m o v e m e n t of dust so i n j u r i o u s to the h e a l t h of m i n e r s w h e n u n c o n t r o l l e d . F r o m the B r a d f o r d b r e a k e r the coal is a u t o m a t i c a l l y taken b y e n d l e s s belt to a 1000 ton s t o r a g e b i n f rom w h i c h it is let t h r o u g h a s hoo t into 60 ton coal w agg o n s , the l a r ge st of their kind in A u s t r l i a , and t r a n s p o r t e d to the c o m p a n y ' s coke o v e n s at Port Kembla. S e r v i c e b u i l d i n g s e r e c t e d at the tunnel m o u t h i n c l u d e b a t h r o o m s and c h a n g e h o u s e for m i n e e m p l o y e e s ; e n g i n e e r i n g s hops and o ffi ces . L awn s and g a r d e n s s u r r o u n d the pit h e a d and works. An a t t r a c t i v e bus t erminal and car p a r k c o m p l e t e the p i c t u r e of the s u r r o u n d i n g s f r o m w h i c h a p a n o r a m a of the b r o a d b l u e w a t ers of the v a s t Pa c i f i c O c e a n is obt a i n e d . F r o m the sto r a g e bins the trucks are s h u n t e d a l o n g the e m b a n k m e n t and steel o v e r b r i d g e s e r e c t e d o v e r the P r i n c e ' s H i g h w a y and g o v e r n m e n t r a i l w a y in 1953. They r e p l a c e d the level c r o s s i n g f o r m e r l y in use. F r o m the s i d i n g s n e a r the jetty a b a n d o n e d a f t e r the s e a w a r d end wa s w a s h e d a w a y by s t o r m in 1943 the trucks are t ak en on the g o v e r n m e n t r a i l w a y to Port K e m b l a w h e r e the n u m b e r of coke o ve ns was i n c r e a s e d f r o m 72 to 144 in the y e a r s f ro m 1950, the Bulli co ke w o r k s b e i n g a b a n d o n e d . In 1953 the m i n e b e c a m e one of the m o s t m o d e r n in A u s t r a l i a w i t h an o u tpu t of 3 0 0 0 tons of c oal per e i g h t - h o u r day. T h a t a c h i e v e m e n t e n s u r e s the c o n t i n u a t i o n of p r o d u c t i o n w h i c h in turn, c o m b i n e d w ith the o u t p u t of the c o a s t a l c o l l i e r i e s , s e c u r e s the e n d u r i n g p r o s p e r i t y of the d i s t r i c t w h i c h d e v e l o p e d a bou t the m i n e s of B u l l i d u r i n g the c e n t u r y since the m i n e s w e r e op en ed. T o d a y the m o u n t a i n s i d e s s t a n d w i t h their b e a u t y u n s p o i l e d by e v i d e n c e of the g r e a t c o n t r i b u t i o n to i n d u s t r y w hic h they h ave made.

CHAPTER 4 T W I X T

C L I F F

A N D

O C E A N

1841-1888

The y e a r s d u r i n g w h i c h the coal trade grew saw the g r o w t h of the d i s t r i c t b o t h c o m m e r c i a l l y and s oci al ly, as one by one the v a r i o u s v i l l a g e s a p p e a r e d w i t h the o p e n i n g of the m i n e s , and the roads d e v e l o p e d to link the d i s t r i c t o v e r l a n d w i t h Sydn ey , w i t h w h i c h it had be en linke d a l s o for o v e r h a l f a c e n t u r y b y the seaway. B u l l i w a s b r o u g h t into p r o m i n e n c e in the for ti es w i t h the o p e n i n g of the m o u n t a i n p ass e s for tra ffic. S u r v e y o r B u r ne tt in 1841 found t r a c k s from A p p i n to the c o a st b e i n g used. In 1844 C a p t a i n W e s t m a c o t t , w h o h ad s e c u r e d land n o r t h from C o r n e l i u s O ' B r i e n at Bulli w h e r e he r e s i d e d , found a n o t h e r r out e up the B ul li M o u n t a i n . It b e g a n west of his o w n h o u s e and fol l o w e d w e s t w a r d s up the r i d g e s till use d for Bulli Pass, but ins t e a d of t u r n i n g s o u th and p r o c e e d i n g to the E l b o w as the pass d o e s today, it turne d s l i g h t l y n o r t h - w e s t and m a d e a l m o s t str a i g h t up the m o u n t a i n s i d e , as is s how n on the W o n o n a P a r i s h M a p to this day. T h e c o s t of c l e a r i n g the road was paid w i t h m o n e y c o l l e c t e d f rom set t l e r s and by A u g u s t b e c a m e the m o s t fav o u r e d t rack use d by h o r s e m e n from W o l l o n g o n g to S y d n e y a l t h o u g h the " I l l a w a r r a Hill", as the pass was called, was c o n s i d e r e d d i f f i c u l t . The b r i d l e t rack was the f o r e r u n n e r of the famous Bulli Pass, the lo wer h a l f of it r e m a i n i n g on m u c h the same r ou te a ft er one h u n d r e d years. In 1852 D e p u t y S u r v e y o r - G e n e r a l P e r r y had a road b u i l t so that c a r r i a g e s c o u ld d r i v e for the first time f rom A p p i n t h r o u g h B r o u g h t o n ' s P ass d o w n M o u n t K e i r a to W o l l o n g o n g . At the same time road w o r k was c a r r i e d out on Bu lli M o u n t a i n - p r o b a b l y on the r o a d a l o n g the top to M o u n t Keira . Perry r e p o r t e d the roa d d o w n the m o u n t a i n at Bulli bot h d i f f i c u l t and d a n g e r o u s . At the same time g r e w a d e m a n d for imp r o v e d c o m m u n i c a t i o n w i t h s e t t l e m e n t s a l o n g the n a r r o w p l a i n b e t w e e n the m o u n t a i n s and the sea fr om W o l l o n g o n g tow ard s Bulli. A f t e r the v isi t to W o l l o n g o n g of G o v e r n o r B o u r k e in 1834 the B u l l i P a r i s h Road wa s laid out b y S u r v e y o r M i t c h e l l fro m the i n t e r s e c t i o n of K e i r a S t r e e t and S m i t h Stre et . A g a n g of c o n v i c t s m a d e the road as far n o r t h w a r d s as Par a C r e e k and a f t e r that it was o n l y a b r i d l e t r a c k to B u l l i until 1846 w h e n F a i r y M e a d o w s e t t l e r s held a m e e t i n g to e lec t t rus t e e s u nder the P a r i s h R oad s Act so that the road c o u l d be formed. Th e t r u s t e e s e l e c t e d were C a p t a i n P l u n k e t t w h o ha d a farm at P l u n k e t t s hill n e a r w h e r e M a c C a b e had his p r o p e r t y at R u s s e l l Vale later; Dr C o x w h o h a d a farm a d j o i n i n g P l u n k e t t ' s on the s o u t h w h e r e C o r r i m a l grew; a n d A n d e r s o n w h o had a farm at F a i r y M e a d o w . M i t c h e l l had laid o ut the r o a d a l o n g the ed ge of the su rv e y e d land, w h i c h too k it ov er hill and d a l e w i t h some v e r y steep pinch es . T h e r e was m u c h u n s u c c e s s f u l o p p o s i t i o n , including that of W e s t m a c o t t of B u lli , w h o w i s h e d the road to k e e p to the flats on the sea w a r d side of the ri dg es. P l u n k e t t and Cox s u c c e e d e d in h a v i n g the road ma de past their p r o p e r t i e s to a v o i d m a k i n g b y - r o a d s for t h e m s e l v e s .

24 25 N o r t h w a r d s f r o m P l u n k e t t ' s hill the road c u r v e d s e a w a r d s a r o u n d the to p of C a w l e y ' s hill and C h a r l e s w o r t h 's hill. P i e c e s of land w e r e cut f r o m that of C a w l e y , F a r r a h e r and C o l l a e r y for the p a s s a g e of the road w h i c h e n d e d at F ry' s store, n e a r w h e r e G r a y Street m e t the m a i n ro ad later at W o o n o n a . W h e n the road w a s m a d e it was not m e t a l l e d , the di rt from the w a t e r t a b l e s b e i n g t h r o w n int o the m i d d l e of the road. P l u n k e t t ' s and C o x's h i l l s w e r e v e r y s te ep at f ir st and v e h i c l e s had great d i f f i c u l t y in g e t t i n g o v e r th em u n t i l they w e r e cu t d o w n at some expen se. F r o m e a r l i e s t t imes u n t i l the s i x t i e s h o r s e m e n rode by the route a l o n g the b e a c h e s . T h e first ra te w a s s t r u c k by the road t r u s t e e s in 1846 at 4 d per a c r e on all land lying w i t h i n t hr ee m il es of the road. A l e x a n d e r S t e w a r t w a s the rate collector. All c r e e k s were ford ed and t h ere w e r e no b r i d g e s u n t i l the r o a d was l a t e r t a k e n o v e r by N o r t h I l l a w a r r a M u n i c i p a l C o u n c i l and the t o l l b a r e s t a b l i s h e d at the m u n i c i p a l b o u n d a r y to s e c u r e a road c o n t r i b u t i o n f r o m t ho se u s i n g it living n o r t h of the r a t e d area. In M a y 1859 the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " r e p o r t e d that T h o m a s H a y w o o d ' s t e nde r of £13 15s p e r m i l e for w o r k on the B ull i Road was a cce pte d. A t o l l - b a r was e s t a b l i s h e d o n the B ulli P a r i s h Road about 1871 and the r i g h t to c o l l e c t tolls wa s sold a n n u a l l y b y N o r t h I l l a w a r r a Co un c i l by p u b l i c a u c t i o n . T h e t o l l - b a r was a l w a y s u n p o p u l a r and s t r o n g l y o b j e c t e d to and was e v e n t u a l l y c l o s e d in A p r i l 1881. D e v e l o p m e n t of the r o a d p r o c e e d e d but the i n c r e a s i n g h o r s e - d r a w n t r a f f i c in the e a r l y s e v e n t i e s c o m p e l l e d the e a s i n g of g r a d e s and the b r i d g i n g of cre eks . P l u n k e t t ' s hill, known in the n e w c e n t u r y as B l a c k Cu tt i n g , s o u t h of the S o u t h B u l l i t r am lin e, was cut d o w n in 1873 w h e n soft coal s l a c k w h i c h is still v i s i b l e was s t r uc k near the b o t t o m of the t w e n t y - f o o t d e e p cutting. T h e road trust r e l i n q u i s h e d o f f i c e in 1878 a f t e r w h i c h the G o v e r n m e n t t o o k over. M e a n w h i l e B e n j a m i n R i x o n d i s c o v e r e d a n e w r o u t e d o w n the m o u n t a i n . In 1847 and the f o l l o w i n g y e a r s u b s c r i p t i o n s w e r e c o l l e c t e d to b u i l d a s e v e n feet w i d e road w h i c h w a s o p e n e d in D e c e m b e r 1848 and use d by the post boy. W h i l s t the t r ack d o w n M o u n t K e i r a was u sed by W o l l o n g o n g t ra ffic, it did no t suit Bu lli r e s i d e n t s . Th e n e w R i x o n ' s r oa d a l s o c o m p e l l e d B ulli p e o p l e to travel a few m i l e s s o u t h b e f ore c l i m b i n g the r a n g e and t u r n i n g n o r t h again. Th e r oad ha d g r a d e s of 1 in c o m p a r e d w i t h 1 in 5 on M o u n t K e i r a bu t was c o n s i d e r a b l y u s e d w h e n ten y e ars a f t e r w a r d s the G o v e r n m e n t c a l l e d t e n d e r s for its i m p r o v e m e n t . In 1857 r e s i d e n t s s h o w e d t heir a p p r e c i a t i o n of R i x o n ' s s e r v i c e s b y p r e s e n t i n g h i m w i t h an i n s c r i b e d s i l v e r s a l v e r and p u r s e w i t h 100 s o v e r e i g n s , sayin g that the road, "i n its d e s i g n a t i o n as R i x o n ' s Road w o u l d p e r p e t u a t e that name to s u c c e e d i n g g e n e r a t i o n s " . On c o m p l e t i o n of the road for v e h i c l e s in 1858 J a m e s W r i g h t of B a l g o w n i e d r o v e a cart and C.T. Smith, p i o n e e r s e t t l e r of W o l l o n g o n g , a c a r r i a g e on the pass w h i c h i m m e d i a t e l y b e c a m e the m a i l roa d w h e n L a r k i n p l a c e d a f o u r - h o r s e c o a c h on it. A road a l o n g the m o u n t a i n top to the r oad up W e s t m a c o t t ' s P a s s was m a d e to c o n n e c t w i t h the t r a c k to Appi n. When r e t u r n i n g to A p p i n f rom a v i sit to W o l l o n g o n g in O c t o b e r the G o v e r n o r , Sir W i l l i a m D eni s o n , f o l l o w e d the road a c c o m p a n i e d b y R i x o n h ims elf . O n the w a y he i n s p e c t e d " B e l l a m b i V al e" k n o w n later as F.P. M a c C a b e ' s h o m e at R u s s e l l Vale.

The o l d t r a c k from the top of Bulli to A p p i n was r e b u i l t as a c o a c h road in 1859. A t the top of the pass on " B u ll i M o u n t a i n " B i d d u l p h H e n n i n g b u i l t a c o t t a g e on his 180 acre s e l e c t i o n in 1855. His c o t t a g e was a n o t e d l a n d m a r k on his farm for some years a l t h o u g h he so ld to H e n r y O s b o r n e in 1857. W h i l s t r e s i d e n t there he and his s i s t e r w a l k e d d o w n the m o u n t a i n and d r o v e to W o l l o n g o n g . B u l l i p e o p l e al wa y s p r e s s e d for the c o n s t r u c t i o n of the road d o w n Bulli Mountain. W h i l s t s a v i n g cost was a l wa ys ar gu e d , u n d o u b t e d l y Bulli p e o p l e w e r e a c t u a t e d b y p r i v a t e c o n v e n i e n c e and b u s i n e s s p o s s i b i l i t i e s for they a l w a y s c l a i m e d taht R i x o n ' s Pass was too r o u n d a b o u t for Bulli and W o o n o n a residents. In J a n u a r y 1857 the p e opl e p r e s s e d for c o n s t r u c t i o n of the road d o w n B u l l i M o u n t a i n to c o n n e c t b oth w i t h the r o a d to A p p i n and that a c r o s s M a d d e n ' s P l a i n s to G e o r g e ' s R i v e r and Sydney. In S e p t e m b e r 1863 it was r e p o r t e d that the m a i l c o n t r a c t o r G. O r g a n and s e t t l e r s had c l e a r e d and formed W e s t m a c o t t ' s P a s s and that a w h e e l e d v e h i c l e c o u l d then ascend. The r out e was s h o r t e r t h a n R i x o n ' s Pass. In M a r c h J864, f o l l o w i n g S u r v e y o r B o l t o n ' s r e c o m m e n d a t i o n that B ull i M o u n t a i n Road be c o n s t r u c t e d , a d e p u t a t i o n m e t the S e c r e t a r y for L ands and p r e s s e d for a c t i o n s tat i n g , as s u b s e q u e n t d e p u t a t i o n s did, that the m a i l b o y a l w ays used W e s t m a c o t t ' s Pass in wet w e a t h e r r a the r tha n R i x o n ' s Pass, w h i c h was su bj e c t to l a n d s l i d e s and on w h i c h the g o v e r n m e n t m o n e y was spent. E v e n t u a l l y , a f t e r c o n t i n u e d a g i t ati on , an a m o u n t of £ 2 5 0 0 was pl ac e d on the G o v e r n m e n t e s t i m a t e s in D e c e m b e r 1866 and in A p r i l 1867 the ten d e r of A n d r e w T u r n b u l l was a c c e p t e d for c o n s t r u c t i o n of the road. The n e w road left W e s t m a c o t t ' s Pass h a l f w a y up, ran s o u t h w a r d s , g r a d u a l l y r i s i n g on the m o u n t a i n shelf, sw ung r o u n d the E l b o w and a s c e n d e d the m o u n t a i n s i d e to re ach the top at about the same spot as the e a r l i e r road. T he " S y d n e y M o r n i n g H e r a l d " of 20 J un e 1868 r e p o r t e d that the f irst w h e e l e d v e h i c l e had us ed the road and the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " of 11 S e p t e m b e r s t a ted that b o t h the m a i l and day c o a c h e s had c o m m e n c e d t r a v e l l i n g b y it. They, of cou rse , t r a v e l l e d f ro m W o l l o n g o n g to A p p i n and C a m p b e l l t o w n to w h i c h the r a i l w a y was o p e n e d on 17 M a y 1858. P r i o r to the o p e n i n g of the c o a c h road p e o p l e rode on h o r s e b a c k or t r a v e l l e d in the m a i l cart to C a m p b e l l t o w n w h e r e they took t r a i n to S y d n e y to a v o i d w hat w a s p o p u l a r l y r e f e r r e d to as "the d i s a g r e e a b l e sea v o y a g e " . T h e fa re by " f o u r w h e e l e d v e h i c l e s " fro m W o l l o n g o n g to C a m p b e l l t o w n was 12s in 1860. C o a c h e s and o t h e r v e h i c l e s t r a v e l l i n g the A p p i n R o a d w e r e a s s i s t e d b y the c o n s t r u c t i o n in 1873 by the A p p i n Road T r ust of b r i d g e s at the L o d d o n R i v e r and K i n g s F al l w h e r e floods f r e q u e n t l y held up t r a f f i c u nt il the w a t e r p a s s e d d o w n the streams. W. S t o d d a r t was c o n t r a c t o r for the w o r k w h i c h he c o m p l e t e d the f o l l o w i n g year. In F e b r u a r y 1874 H e n r y P a r k e s v i s i t e d Il lawarra, t r a v e l l i n g ov er the r o u t e a f t e r g o i n g b y s p e cia l t r ai n to C a m p b e l l t o w n and v i s i t i n g the A p p i n and B u l l i s c h o o l s on the way. In Apr il, 1880, the G o v e r n m e n t gazetted the r oad f r o m C a m p b e l l t o w n vi a W o l l o n g o n g and K i a m a as the " m a i n s out h c oast road". The g r o w i n g use of the B ull i Pass b r o u g h t d e m a n d s for im pr o v e d s a fe ty the p u b l i c an d in 1878 the sum of £150 was p r o v i d e d by the G o v e r n m e n t

for for

26 27 f e n c i n g , the n e e d for w h i c h was e m p h a s i z e d by a c o a c h a cci d e n t . The day c o a c h in w h i c h w e r e J.A. M a n n and H u g h T a y l o r M.L.A. for P a r r a m a t t a w e n t o v e r the side a n d c a p s i z e d at the Elbow , f l i n g i n g the p a s s e n g e r s i n t o the m u d an d s m a s h i n g the top off the v ehi c l e . The i nj u r e d were c o n v e y e d to the H a r p Inn at W o l l o n g o n g w her e they w ere t r e a t e d by the nearest m e d i c a l man, Dr Lyons. T h e y r e t u r n e d i m m e d i a t e l y b y boat to P a r r a m a t t a v i a S y d n e y but M a n n d i e d s h o r t l y a f t e r w a r d s as a resul t of the a cc ide nt . T h a t b e c a m e the first of a long list of a c c i d e n t s to o c c u r at the E l b o w and e l s e w h e r e on the pass a l t h o u g h f e n c i n g e r e c t e d at the end of 1878 and r e p a i r e d and r e p l a c e d in s u b s e q u e n t years has c o n t r i b u t e d g r e a t l y to their p r e v e n t i o n . In O c t o b e r the s ame y e a r the d a y coach, d r i v e n b y T h o m a s Kell y, the d r i v e r i n v o l v e d in the p r e v i o u s accident, a g a i n c a p s i z e d at the E l b o w t h r o u g h the h o r s e s b olt in g. A l t h o u g h the c o a c h r o l l e d on its side the n e w f en ce s a v e d the passengers f rom serious injury. Waterworth's day coach fro m Campbelltown capsized in S e p t e m b e r 1880 and the inside and outside p a s s e n g e r s w e r e all b a d l y hurt in wha t was the first a c c i d e n t to a c o a c h of that line. T h e p a s s e n g e r s wer e t ak en to v a r i o u s hotels in B u l l i for treatment. R o a d c o m m u n i c a t i o n w i t h W o l l o n g o n g d e v e l o p e d in the s i x t ies and in 1868 A. M c I n t y r e of W o o n o n a b e gan a h orse bus s e r v i c e to W o l l o n g o n g at a fare of Is e a c h way. In 1870 two n e w t e n - p a s s e n g e r " s o c i a b l e " c o a c h e s , w h i c h p a s s e n g e r s e n t e r e d f rom the ce nt r e at the r e a r and sat a l o n g e a c h side f a c i n g e a c h o t h e r w i t h their backs to the r o a d w i d e , were p l a c e d on the Bui I i - W o l l o n g o n g Road by W. Bennett and R. Barker. Th e c o a c h e s had to c ros s u n b r i d g e d c r e e k s for m a n y y e ars and in 1878 the m a i l c o a c h from C a m p b e l l t o w n was d r i v e n i nto f l o o d w a t e r s on the flat " s o u t h of the v i l l a g e of B u l l i " from w h i c h the d rif t coa l s l a c k had b e e n w a s h e d away, a nd the h o r s e s had to swi m d r a g g i n g the r o c k i n g c o a c h a f t e r them. D u r i n g t he ir p a s s a g e of 100 y ard s the m a i l b a g w a s w a s h e d out of the c o a c h and the h o l l o w - S l a c k y Flat of today - was c a l l e d " M a i l b a g H o l l o w " for the f o l l o w i n g t w e nty years . The m a i l b a g was r e c o v e r e d on B ulli beach. As a res ult the c o n s t r u c t i o n of a b r i d g e at e a c h end was begun, u n t i l the c o m p l e t i o n of w h i c h c o a c h m e n w e r e h e s i t a n t to pa ss w h e n the w a t e r w a s up. T eam s cut the road to bogs. The hill in front of the W e s l e y a n C h u r c h w a s cu t d o w n and the m a t e r i a l used to b u i l d the r oa d ni ne feet h i g h e r a c r o s s the flat. Th e development of roads and road transport fr om the fifties was n e c e s s i t a t e d by the g r o w t h of the coal m i n e s and the v i l l a g e s in w h i c h the miners lived n earby. Coal m i n i n g first b r o u g h t a bout the g r o w t h of B e l l a m b i as a v i l l a g e b y the sea w i t h the o p e n i n g of the m i n e in 1858. L i f e there rotated a r o u n d the h a r b o u r and the m i n e t h re e m i l e s away. The d e v e l o p m e n t of the ha rb o u r , a c r e s c e n t - s h a p e d c o a s t a l i n d e n t a t i o n was p u r s u e d a ctively, f a v o u r e d as it was w i t h a r e e f s t r e t c h i n g out to the p a c i f i c to a f f ord p r o t e c t i o n fr om the s o u t h - w e s t e r l y winds. At first the coal was taken out to the s hip s in b o a t s but in J u n e 1858 the first j e t t y for coal l o a d ing was c o m p l e t e d b y W i l l i a m Mills. It was p r o b a b l y the longest in the co lon y, b e i n g 500 feet long and ten feet wide, and had 12 feet of w a t e r at low tide. Fry b u i l t a store and k e e p e r ' s

r e s i d e n c e at the j e t t y and H a l e c e l e b r a t e d the o p e n i n g by g i v i n g a d i n n e r to h i s e m p l o y e e s in the store. In 1862 a s e c o n d j e t t y was b u i l t for s h i p m e n t of coal by T a y l o r and Walk er . The c o n t r a c t o r , R o b e r t L o n g m o r e , W as the first to use t ur p e n t i n e timber, w h i c h p r o v e d r e s is tan t to the t e r e d o or c o b r a grub, a fter w h i c h t u r p e n t i n e w a s g e n e r a l l y u s e d in c o n s t r u c t i o n in salt water. To p r o t e c t s h i p p i n g in B e l l a m b i h a r b o u r it was p r o p o s e d in 1859 to e r e c t a b r e a k w a t e r o n the ree f on w h i c h E.O. Mo ri a r t y , G o v e r n m e n t E n g in eer , landed f rom a w h a l e boa t in c a l m wea ther. In 1861 the l a n d o w n e r s formed a c o m p a n y to b u i l d a b r e a k w a t e r to cost £10,000 an d l ater the same year A l i c k O s b o r n e , T h o m a s H a l e and Dr B a r t h o l o m e w O ' B r i e n p r e s e n t e d a p e t i t i o n b e a r i n g 500 s i g n a t u r e s a s k i n g the g o v e r n m e n t to c o n s t r u c t it. A f urt h e r p e t i t i o n w a s p r e s e n t e d the f o l l o w i n g year, a f t e r w h i c h the g o v e r n m e n t p l a c e d £ 2 0 , 0 0 0 on the e s t i m a t e s for h a r b o u r i m p r o v e m e n t . The b r e a k w a t e r w a s not b u i l t but the h a r b o u r was i mproved and u s e d for s h i p p i n g for almo st a h u n d r e d years. S h i p p i n g w a s life to Bella mbi , w h i c h saw a p r o c e s s i o n of ships float on the w a t e r s of its h a r b o u r w i t h the p a s s i n g years: first the s a i l i n g s c h o o n e r s and b a r q u e s and then the s tea m e r s - at first p a d d l e - w h e e l e r s a s s i s t e d by sails a n d l ater s c r e w pr opelled. Befo re the j e t t y h a d b e e n c o m p l e t e d the s t e a m e r s w e r e a t t a c h e d to the m o o r i n g c a b l e s and the co al c a r g o t a k e n out to them in boats. T h om as Hale purchased the brigantine schooner N i g h t i n g a l e in J a n u a r y 1858 for the Bel l a m b i - S y d n e y trade , r e g u l a r l y p l y i n g w i t h he r 55 ton c a r g o and r e t u r n i n g in t hose e a r l y d a y s w i t h o th er h e a v y c a r g o suc h as br ick s. The same y ea r the c u t t e r H e l e n pl ied c a r r y i n g 20 tons and the T i g e r c a r r y i n g 112 tons. In May, T h o m a s H a l e bo ug h t the V i c t o r i a P a c k e t w h i c h c a r r i e d 300 tons of coal to M e l b o u r n e and A d e l a i d e and w h i c h wa s the f ir st large v e s s e l to e n t e r B e l l a m b i h a r b o u r and the first v e e s s e l to take B e l l a m b i coal e l s e w h e r e t ha n Sydney. Ha le a dd ed the s c h o o n e r P r o s p e c t o r , c a r r y i n g 76 tons, to his fleet in F e b r u a r y 1859 and in D e c e m b e r b o u g h t f r o m the u n d e r w r i t e r s the W a r l o c k w h i c h was a g r o u n d on the reef, t owed it a s h o r e and a dd ed it to his fleet as the Bell Bird. H e p u r c h a s e d the S a c r a m e n t o in March 1860 and by the end of the ye ar the Souvenir, Prospector, N i g h t i n g a l e , W a r l o c k , S a c r a m e n t o and C o l l i n a w e r e all n o t e d in the h a r b o u r at the one time. As the y e a r s pas s e d ships l o a d e d w i t h coal amost d a i l y and at times a d o z e n ships w o u l d be se en in h a r b o u r tog e t h e r . In 1862 the C a r o l i n e left w i t h 30 0 tons o f B e l l a m b i coal for the new B a l l a r a t railwa y. To the list of ships l o a d i n g c oal at B e l l a m b i w e r e a dded the Spray, H e r c u l e a n , Duke of W e l l i n g t o n , V i b i l i a and D r u m of Fife. Hale a d d e d the B e a u t i f u l S t a r to his fleet in S e p t e m b e r 1862 and at that time H.M.S. M i r a n d a , 15 guns, 2 000 tons, d r a w i n g 17 feet of water, c a l l e d at B e l l a m b i , loa de d 300 tons and s a i l e d for M e l b o u r n e . The W a r l o c k was the fist of a long list of s h i p s to go agr o u n d on the reef. In S e p t e m b e r 1859 the H e l e n was d r i v e n a s h o r e but was lau nch ed again. C h a n g e s in the wind w e r e a l w ays f e a re d b y the c a p t a i n s . In O c t o b e r the E x c e l s i o r b a r q u e of 276 tons was w r e c k e d on the r e e f b y a s u dd en w i n d c h a nge w h i l s t l e a v i n g the h arb o u r . In J a n u a r y 1860 f o l l o w e d the 120 ton

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b r i g a n t i n e O c e a n Queen, built in 1846 and u n i n s u r e d . T h e n the C o l i n a w as wrecked. A s c h o o n e r not c o n n e c t e d w i t h the coal trade, the R e e p e r , w i t h 2 0 , 0 0 0 feet of cedar, sai l i n g from the T w e e d to Sydney, f a i led to find S y d n e y l i g h t h o u s e or heads in a s t o r m in J u n e 1864 and was w r e c k e d on B e l l a m b i beach. The o p e n i n g of the sixti es saw a m o v e m e n t of i n t e r e s t and p o p u l a t i o n fi rst to W o o n o n a a n d later e x t e n d i n g to Bulli. R ur al a c t i v i t i e s in the B e l l a m b i and B u l l i a r e a s p r i o r to the o p e n i n g of the coa l mines, small t h o u g h t h e y were, focused on W o o n o n a which early became the social, business, e d u c a t i o n a l and r e c r e a t i o n a l c e n tre and w h i c h a p p e a r s to h ave had the district's fi rst educational institution, the Church of England D e n o m i n a t i o n a l School. T h e s c h o o l a p p e a r s to h ave b e e n c o n d u c t e d in a b u i l d i n g on the w e s t e r n side of the W o o n o n a - B u l 1 i P a r i s h Road n e a r the i n t e r s e c t i o n of G r a y S t r e e t today, on the site s u b s e q u e n t l y used for W o o n o n a C h u r c h of E n g l a n d . It was b u i l t and s u p p o r t e d e n t i r e l y by v o l u n t a r y s u b s c r i p t i o n s and wa s b e i n g c o n d u c t e d in 1856 by Mr and Mrs J e s t o n w h e n the h a l f - y e a r l y e x a m i n a t i o n was c o n d u c t e d as u s u a l by the C h u r c h of E n g l a n d c l e r g y m a n , Rev. T.C. Ewin g. H. H a r r i s of St J a m e s School, Sydney, too k c h a r g e in 1863. It ha d 70 p u p i l s in 1864 but by 1880 the b u i l d i n g was c o n s i d e r e d too small for its 150 sc ho l a r s . A p u b l i c s c h o o l was w a n t e d and s t r o n g l y p r e s s e d for until in June 1883 the s c h o o l b e c a m e no longer a d e n o m i n a t i o n a l s c h o o l but a p u b l i c sch o o l . A w o o d e n s c h o o l h o u s e was to have b e e n b u i l t in 1884 w h e n the r e s i d e n t s p r o t e s t e d that W o o n o n a was w o r t h y of as fine a s c h o o l as the s t o ne b u i l d i n g e r e c t e d at S h e r b r o o k e s h o r t l y before. M e a n w h i l e the D e p a r t m e n t of P u b l i c I n s t r u c t i o n u s e d the Sch ool of A rt s for s c h o o l r o o m s . A weatherboard school was e r e c t e d in G r a y Street at the end of 1884 at a cos t of £ 900 for b u l d i n g and f u r n i t u r e . T h e n e w p u b l i c scho ol was " t r a n s f e r r e d from the d i l a p i d a t e d S c h o o l of Arts to the n e w p r e m i s e s " in F e b r u a r y 1885 w i t h o u t c e r e m o n y . The b u i l d i n g was n o t e d as u n s u b s t a n t i a l c o m p a r e d w i t h that at S h e r b r o o k e . A.G. C h a p m a n w h o later c h a n g e d his n a m e to A l a n s o n was in c h a r g e w i t h M i s s e s S t r o n g e r and W a l d r o n as teachers. The d i s t r i c t was f o r t u n a t e that Hale was an a c t i v e p u b l i c m a n w h o a s s i s t e d its g r o w t h in no small wa y b y his o p e n i n g of the m i n e in 1857 w i t h p r i v a t e capital originally amassed in c o n d u c t i n g a b u s i n e s s in S y d n e y as a w a t c h m a k e r , d e s p i t e the fact that he had no p r e v i o u s e x p e r i e n c e of coal m i n i n g or trading. He was e l e c t e d p r e s i d e n t w h e n the " B e l l a m b i and B u l l i " S c h o o l of A r t s was o r i g i n a t e d in N o v e m b e r 1861. He p r o m i s e d a b l o c k of land and £20. I m m e d i a t e l y a l i b r a r y g r e w w i t h 100 v o l u m e s , of w h i c h H ale d o n a t e d half, an d the i n s t i t u t i o n e n r o l l e d 50 m e m b e r s . C a p t a i n C l u m o and R. S o m e r v i l l e w e r e e l e c t e d v i c e - p r e s i d e n t s w i t h s u p p o r t e r s i n c l u d i n g H.S. Fry, C. Pope, J.H. a nd W. Collae ry, Dr Cox, Dum b r e l l , Organ, Crane, F a r r a h e r , G a r l i c k , S h a r m a n , G r a h a m , C a w l e y and Rev. T.C. Ewi ng. T h e r e was a c o m m i t t e e of 12 w i t h D.R. E d e n as s e c r e t a r y and W. S o m e r v i l l e as t r e a sur er . The si te w a s the e a s t e r n side of the p a r i s h r o a d just n o r t h o f G r a y S t r ee t, w h i c h has r e m a i n e d the site u ntil today. It w a s a q u a r t e r acr e b l o c k

d o n a t e d by M a c k e n z i e and s u b s c r i p t i o n s w e r e c a n v a s s e d and m a t c h e d b y £1 00 v o t e d b y the L e g i s l a t i v e A s s e m b l y in M a y 1862. The b u i l d i n g was f o r m a l l y o p e n e d o n 21 D e c e m b e r 1863 w i t h a tea mee t i n g . It b e c a m e k n o w n v a r i o u s l y as the B e l l a m b i and Bulli S c h o o l of Arts and the Sch oo l of Arts, W o o n o n a , w h e r e it was a c t u a l l y s i t u a t e d in the h e a r t of the o r i g i n a l v i l l a g e on the h i l l t o p w h e r e the tramline c r o s s e d the m a i n road. T h e P r e s b y t e r i a n s of W o o n o n a p r o c e e d e d to e re ct t h ei r c h u r c h in 1864 an d in M a r c h 18 70 J. Rolfe gave a b l o c k of land " n ^ a r W o o n o n a H o t e l " w i t h a r i g h t of w a y to it. G. H a b e r l e y wa s the s u c c e s s f u l t e n d e r e r at £204, the b u i l d i n g of w e a t h e r b o a r d , lined and ceiled, to be 43 feet by 23 feet and 15 feet h i g h w i t h p o rc h and spire. Th e c h u r c h was o p e n e d on F r i d a y a f t e r n o o n , 29 S e p t e m b e r 1871, w h e n the Schoo l of Arts was d e c o r a t e d and t hree s i t t i n g s of tea w e r e served, after w h i c h the c h u r c h was i n s p e c t e d and a p u b l i c m e e t i n g w a s held in the Sc ho o l of Arts. D i f f i c u l t i e s of sites, c o n t r a c t o r and m o n e y had b e e n met, the c h u r c h of G o t h i c a r c h i t e c t u r e f i n a l l y b e i n g b u i l t to seat 150 by P. Gavine. A S a b b a t h School was b e g u n in the c h u r c h in N o v e m b e r 1872 and in O c t o b e r 1876 the r e n o w n e d Rev. Dr J o h n D u n m o r e L a n g p r e a c h e d in the c h u r c h d u r i n g a v i s i t to the d i s t r i c t . A Presbyterian c e m e t e r y wa s set a side in G r a y S t r e e t b e s i d e the c hurch. The e n d of the s ixt i e s saw the v i l l a g e of W o o n o n a the m o s t i m p o r t a n t p lac e in B u l l i d is tri ct. The v i l l a g e c e n t r e was on the h i l l t o p w h e r e the m i n e t r a m w a y c r o s s e d the road jus t s o u t h of its j u n c t i o n w i t h G r a y St re e t of today. It was there that H.S. Fry, d e s t i n e d to b e c o m e the m o s t i m p o r t a n t t o w n s m a n in Bulli di st r i c t d u r i n g the f o l l o w i n g h a l f - c e n t u r y , opened W o o n o n a ' s first store about 1857. Fry, w h o was a n a t i v e of Bath, E ngl a n d , a r r i v e d in the c o l o n y in 1854 on the B a n g a l o r e w i t h his aunt R h o d a W i l m o t Fry, w h o e v e n t u a l l y b e c a m e the third w i f e of W o l l o n g o n g ' s fo under, C.T. Smith. He w o r k e d at his t rade as c a r p e n t e r and j o i n e r on the r a i l w a y s t a t i o n s b e t w e e n S y d n e y and P a r r a m a t t a and m a d e jewe ll ers ' show cases in Sydney. Hi s aunt, Mrs E m m a Wood L o r k i n g , w h o h a d o p e n e d a hotel at Be ll a m b i , saw the ne ed for a store, the n e a r e s t b e i n g at W o l l o n g o n g , and asked h i m to co me and o p e n one. Meanwhile the c e d a r trade had b r o u g h t to the d i s t r c t the f a the r of E l i z a b e t h Jones, w h o had bee n on the B e l l i n g e r R i v e r f r o m 1843 but b o u g h t a ten a c r e h e a v i l y tim b e r e d farm at W o o n o n a in 1853. Elizabeth who was born at L i v e r p o o l , En gland, a r r i v e d in the c o l o n y as an infant on the s h i p "Elizabeth". Fry m a r r i e d E l i z a b e t h J o n e s on 19 A u g u s t 1862 at St P h i l l i p ' s , S ydney, w he re she had b e c o m e a p a r i s h i o n e r to p e r m i t h e r b e i n g m a r r i e d there, as there was no c h u r c h in B u l l i d i s t r i c t . Fry w a s d e s c r i b e d on his m a r r i a g e c e r t i f i c a t e as a " B a c h e l o r , of W o l l o n g o n g " . So on a f t e r o p e n i n g his store F r y o p e n e d the first post o f f i c e in the d i s t r i c t in c o n n e c t i o n with it on 1 O c t o b e r 1859, his s u r e t i e s b e in g T h o m a s H a l e and A l f r e d Lorking. It wa s n a m e d " W o n o n a " , the a b o r i g i n a l n a m e of the m o u n t a i n p e a k n e a r b y a l t h o u g h u n t i l that time the w h o l e d i s t r i c t h a d b e e n k n o w n as Bulli. Th e store w a s said to be a c e n t r a l spot for "B ull i, the C h i p p e n d a l e and the n o r t h e r n e nd of F a i r y M e a d o w and B e lla mb i". A branch of the G o v e r n m e n t B a n k was o p e n e d t her e in 1871. F r y sold his s t o r e in 1879, his s u c c e s s o r b e c o m i n g p o s t m a s t e r , but F r y a g a i n b e c a m e p o s t m a s t e r in 1881, o n l y to be s u c c e e d e d in s t o re and post o f f i c e by J o h n W y n n in 1882.

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W o o n o n a in the s i x t i e s was n oted for d a i r y f a r m i n g and b u t t e r m a k i n g a l t h o u g h t h er e wa s a s t e a m s a w m i l l and the coal i n d u s t r y was g r o w i n g . C o m m u n i c a t i o n w i t h W o l l o n g o n g and B u l l i was b y h o r s e and d ray. The School of Art s was used for C o n g r e g a t i o n a l , P r i m i t i v e M e t h o d i s t and P r e s b y t e r i a n s e r v i c e s w h i l s t the C h u r c h of E n g l a n d d e n o m i n a t i o n a l schoo l w a s u s e d for w o r s h i p once a mont h. T h e r e w e r e the W o o n o n a and Royal H o t e l s . Charles P o p e in 1878 b u i l t a g r o u p of c o t t a g e s w h e r e P o p e ' s L a n e is t o d a y n o r t h of the Scho ol of Arts and for m a n y y e a rs pe op l e r e f e r r e d to P o p e ' s p r o p e r t y as " T h e V a t i c a n " ( a l t h o u g h P o p e ' s m e m o r y is p e r p e t u a t e d to this d a y on a w i n d o w in B ulli M e t h o d i s t Ch urch). It was f o r m e r l y k n o w n as B l a c k ' s Bush, J a m e s B l a c k h a v i n g lived th ere in the forties. W h i l s t the d e v e l o p m e n t of B e l l a m b i and W o o n o n a w e r e p r o c e e d i n g the f arm e r s and t i m b e r - g e t t e r s at B u l l i w e r e b u i l d i n g the n u c l e u s of a v i l l a g e on the small h o l d i n g s p u r c h a s e d in the forties. C a p t a i n W e s t m a c o t t a p p e a r s to h a v e left B u l l i a bo ut 1844 w h e n his r e s i d e n c e was a d v e r t i s e d to let. His est ate , " W o o d l a n d s " , was r e p o r t e d in the " S y d n e y M o r n i n g H e r a l d " of 27 J a n u a r y 1847, to h a v e bee n sold for £800, as W e s t m a c o t t i n t e n d e d to leave for E ng land. S o m e fa rm i n g was c a r r i e d on in a d d i t i o n to the p r o d u c t i o n of b e e f ca tt l e , Bulli bee f b e c o m i n g r en o w n e d , so me h e a v y c a t t l e h a v i n g b e e n p r o d u c e d . W h e at, oats, barl ey , p o t a t o e s and fruit we re g r o w n in the d i s t r i c t but by 1880 a g r i c u l t u r e was r e g a r d e d o n l y as " n o m i n a l " . William Kirton was noted as B u l l i ' s p i o n e e r g a r d e n e r . He e s t a b l i s h e d a ga rd e n , o r c h a r d and vineyard. His p r o d u c t s w o n p r i zes at m a n y shows. C o c k e r t o n and C o m p a n y o p e n e d the f irst s tor e in Bulli v i l l a g e in 1861 as a b r a n c h of t he ir W o l l o n g o n g store. D u r i n g the y e a rs f o l l o w i n g m o r e s to r e s a p p e a r e d at Bui 1 i . A f t e r the p a s s i n g of Sir J o h n R o b e r t s o n ' s Fre e S e l e c t i o n A c t in 1861, 24 s e l e c t o r s m a d e 39 s e l e c t i o n s of 270 8 acres. Sugar growing was tried by G.S. T u r n b u l l and W. K i r t o n at Bulli in the e a r l y s e v e n t i e s . By 1874 B ulli land was n o t e d as r i s i n g in value , small b u i l d i l n g a l l o t m e n t s of 50 feet f r o n t a g e b r i n g i n g £30. In 1877 b u i l d i n g lots w e r e in h i g h d e m a n d and p e o p l e r e q u e s t e d that the coal c o m p a n y sell so me of its land. Rapid a d v a n c e m e n t was m a d e in 1878 w h e n p e o p l e w e r e c o n t i n u a l l y r e a c h i n g the town and the 2s w e e k l y rise in r ents r e f l e c t e d the c h a n g i n g c o n d i t i o n s of the time at Bulli. T h e e r e c t i o n of the s t e a m s a w m ill in J u l y 1858 by R o b e r t S o m e r v i l l e , and a n o t h e r by J o h n S o m e r v i l l e in 1864, e m p l o y i n g m a n y h a nd s, was i n d i c a t i v e of i n d u s t r i a l p r o g r e s s and a c c o m p a n i e d the g r o w t h of the v i l l a g e at B u l l i w h i c h was to b eco m e an i m p o r t a n t i n d u s t r i a l c e n t r e . William Somerville a l s o o p e r a t e d a mi ll at B u l l i w h i l s t in 1878 a s a w m i l l was e s t a b l i s h e d on B ull i M o u n t a i n in the t i m b e r c o u n t r y a few m i l e s w e s t of the top of the p a s s w h e r e the v i l l a g e of S h e r b r o o k e grew. One of the m o s t n ot ed e a r l y a d v a n c e m e n t s s o o n a f t e r the o p e n i n g of the m i n e at the end of 1862 and the s a w m i l l s b r o u g h t p e o p l e to set t l e at B u l l i , was the b u i l d i n g of the B ulli W e s l e y a n C h a p e l w h i c h s t a n d s today, b e a r i n g p r oud w i t n e s s to the c r a f t s m a n s h i p of the s t o n e m a s o n s w h o b ui lt it as the first stone W e s l e y a n Chap el in Il lawarra.

jhe W e s l e y a n s b eg an their w o r s h i p in the h om e of J a m e s B l a c k in 1846 for a time and a g a i n in the home of G e o r g e S o m e r v i l l e about 1857 but in J a n u a r y 1862 t h e y c o n v e r t e d a large b u i l d i n g f o r m e r l y used as a b a r n and g r a n a r y at W i l l i a m S o m e r v i l l e ' s "Mount H a n k s " w he re the B ulli h o s p i t a l wa s later bui lt, to a t e m p o r a r y cha pel , a d d i n g doors and w i n d o w s . The o p e n i n g on M o n d a y 27 J a n u a r y was m a r k e d b y a tea m e e t i n g at 3 p.m., a t t e n d e d b y the l a r g e s t a s s e m b l y k n o w n at B u l l i to that time, m a n y r i d i n g on h o r s e b a c k f rom Wollongong. Tables to seat 72 wer e a r r a n g e d insi de the c h ap el and to s eat 50 in a tent at the rear. T h e r e we re two s i t t i n g s at w h a t was d e s c r i b e d as the f irst tea party e v e r y hel d at Bulli. W i t h i n a y e a r the S u n d a y School, c o m m e n c e d a b out 1858 w i t h s e v e n sc ho l a r s , had n i n e t y in a t t e n d a n c e and a tea m e e t i n g was o r g a n i s e d to r a ise funds for a S u n d a y S c h o o l library. C h u r c h a t t e n d a n c e s g r e w f r o m 25 in 1860 to 60 in 1863, the p o p u l a t i o n h a v i n g a " f a i r p r o p o r t i o n " of W e s l e y a n s . At a m e e t i n g in A u g u s t 1863 J o h n S o m e r v i l l e o f f e r e d a b l o c k of land and £163 10s w a s s u b s c r i b e d to erect a n e w p l a c e of wo rsh i p . A b e q u e s t of £50 f r o m M i s s T h o m p s o n w a s a lso ava i l a b l e . T h a c k e r a y ' s t e n d e r wa s a c c e p t e d in N o v e m b e r and on T u e s d a y 26 J a n u a r y 1864, the f o u n d a t i o n s t o n e was laid b y G e o r g e S o m e r v i l l e senior. B e n e a t h it in a c a v i t y w a s p l a c e d a b o t t l e c o n t a i n i n g a doc u m e n t , c o p ie s of the " S y d n e y M o r n i n g H e r a l d " , "Illawarra Mercury", " I l l a w a r r a Express'! and o t h e r items. A f t e r the c e r e m o n y the c o m p a n y went to B u l l i P o i nt w h er e a b o o t h had b e e n e r e c t e d for tea but the c a n v a s was to rn to s hre d s by a s o u t h e r l y w h i c h b l e w up and the p e o p l e s h e l t e r e d u n d e r n e a r b y trees. U p o n c o m p l e t i o n of the c h u r c h it was said, "Its size and b e a u t y and consequently its c o s t l i n e s s are o b j e c t s w h i c h will be a s o u r c e of a s t o n i s h m e n t to all u nde r w h o s e o b s e r v a t i o n it m a y c o m e ... The b u i l d i n g q u i t e o u t s h i n e s any place of w o r s h i p in I l l a w a r r a out of W o l l o n g o n g and most of th ose even in t own m u s t r ank second to it in si ze and architecture. The e r e c t i o n of so g r a n d an e d i f i c e for s uch a n o b l e p u r p o s e s p e aks v o l u m e s in favour of the p e o p l e of B u l l i . " It was o p e n e d on S u n d a y 7 M a y 1865 w h e n two s e r v i c e s w e r e held, f o l l o w e d on M o n d a y w i t h a tea and public meeting in a b o o t h of saplings interwoven with boughs and e v e r g r e e n s , a t t e n d e d by 350 people. The p l a n p r o v i d e d for a v e s t r y s t a n d i n g of f on the n o r t h e r n side and an apse in the b a c k g a b l e but th ey w e r e n e v e r e r e c t e d . A s pi re was a d d e d a m o n t h a f t e r the o p e n i n g and a be ll h ung but the s p i r e fell off in 1938. The b u i l d i n g of G o t h i c a r c h i t e c t u r e was b u i l t of stone o u t s i d e and p l a s t e r e d r u b b l e inside, ha d d i a m o n d - s h a p e d l e a d e d g l a s s w i n d o w s and was r o o f e d w i t h c e d a r c o v e r e d w i t h o a k shingl es . Th e c h u r c h was r e p o r t e d in 1865 to have cost £900 and in 1879 to h a v e cost £1200. A musical e n t e r t a i n m e n t to raise m o n e y to b u y a h a r m o n i u m w a s c o n d u c t e d in M a r c h 1871. The f irst w e d d i n g in the c h u r c h was c e l e b r a t e d in M a y 1878 - t h i r t e e n y e ars a f t e r its o p e n i n g — w h e n A r t h u r B r a y of B o w r a l m a r r i e d M i s s E m i l y Organ, e l d e s t d a u g h t e r of W.H. O r g a n and g r a n d - d a u g h e r of G e o r g e O r g a n of Wollongong. T h e B ul li s c ri be r e p o r t e d of it, " O u r two local v e h i c l e s we re e n g a g e d on the o c c a s i o n and in a d d i t i o n to t h o s e c o m m o d i o u s v e h i c l e s , the b r i d e ' s g r a n d f a t h e r had an e q u a l l y s p a c i o u s c h a r i o t in the t r i u m p h a l train,

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each vehicle being p u r e s t whi t e " .

laden

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streaming

with

ribbons

of

Th e w o r k of M i s s M.E. R os e as h a r m o n i s t in the c h u r c h and t e a c h e r in the S u n d a y S c ho ol wa s r e c o g n i s e d in Jul y 1879 w h e n a p r e s e n t a t i o n was m a d e to her. B u l l i 1s g r o w t h r e s u l t e d in no small d e g r e e f r o m the o p e n i n g of the B ull i c o a l m i n e and the s h i p m e n t of its coal. A j e t t y c o n n e c t e d b y a h o rse t r a m w a y w i t h the m i n e a m i l e a w a y on the m o u n t a i n s i d e was d e s i g n e d b y W i l l i a m W e a v e r a nd c o n s t r u c t e d in B ulli B i g h t - an i n d e n t a t i o n p r o t e c t e d , like B e l l a m b i h a r b o u r , f rom the s o u t h - e a s t e r lies b y a r ee f r u n n i n g out on its e a s t e r n tip. Th is was then c all e d B u l l i Point , s o m e t i m e s m a r k e d on e a r l y m a p s W a n i o r a P o i nt and k n own in the t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y as S a n d o n Poi nt. C o a l s h i p m e n t b e g a n e a r l y in 1863 w h e n the s c h o o n e r s M o s e l l e t oo k 100 tons, T i g e r 90 tons and Geo r g e 120 tons. T h e y w e r e the f irst r e g u l a r c o l l i e r s to p l a y b e t w e e n B u l l i j e tty and Port J a c k s o n . The first s c r e w s t e a m e r for Illawarra, the W o n i o r a , c a p a b l e of c a r r y i n g 250 tons, b ui lt at N e w c a s t l e - o n - T y n e , En gla nd, to s e r v e as tug and c o l l i e r , was s a i l e d out b y C a p t a i n J a m e s Shoobert, the son of the p i o n e e r of the coal i nd ust ry, J a m e s S h o o b e r t , m a n a g e r of the B u l l i M i n i n g C o m p a n y . Leaving E n g l a n d on 25 M a y 1863 it a r r i v e d ab out S e p t e m b e r , to ply b e t w e e n B u l l i and Sydney. It m a d e three v o y age s we ekl y. T h e B a r w o n als o p l i e d r e g u l a r l y f r o m 1868 but w as w r e c k e d in 1871. M e a n w h i l e the first s h i p m e n t of 790 tons o f the c o m p a n y ' s coal to S h a n g h a i in the I r o n s i d e in J u n e 1863 m a r k e d the b e g i n n i n g of the B ulli o v e r s e a s coal trade. F o l l o w i n g the W o n i o r a the c o m p a n y had the S.S. B u l l i b uil t by L e w i s and S t o c k w e l l at B l a c k w a l l to c a r r y 500 tons, w i t h d e c k s a l o o n s p a c e for 24 passengers. It was 186 feet long and a r r i v e d at B u l l i on 22 J a n u a r y 1873 a f t e r 63 d ay s fro m P ly mou th. It was lost at the K e n t G r o u p w h i l s t on a v o y a g e to T a s m a n i a w i t h coal, w h e n it s t r u c k a s u n k e n r oc k in b o i s t e r o u s w e a t h e r in J u l y 1877. A n e w S.S. Bulli, b u i l t of s t e e l at Yoke, G l a s g o w , 164 feet long for the B u lli Coal C o m p a n y left E n g l a n d in A p r i l 1884 but was s t r a n d e d nea r C a p e t o w n in M a y and b e c a m e a total wre c k . T he S.S. W o o n o n a , 750 tons, a r r i v e d in D e c e m b e r 1875 for the Bui 1 i - M e l b o u r n e - A d e l a i d e trade, and the S.S. M e r k s w o r t h , 300 tons c apa ci ty, s o o n a f t e r w a r d s . Th e W o o n o n a was w r e c k e d at F i t z r o y R i v e r in 1893. S h i p m e n t of coal at B ulli h a r b o u r m e t d i f f i c u l t y o v e r the y e a r s t h r o u g h the w a s h i n g a w a y of p o r t i o n s of the j e tty in s t o r m s and b y c o l l a p s e , and t h r o u g h the i n a b i l i t y of s a i l i n g ships to sail o u t to sea w h e n s u d d e n s t o r m s b l e w up, d r i v i n g them to w r e c k a g e o n the n e a r b y b e ac h. In J u n e 1864, 250 feet of the j e t t y was w a s h e d away, c a u s i n g a c e s s a t i o n of m i n i n g u n t i l it was r epa ire d, w i t h a c o r r e s p o n d i n g t r a d e d e p r e s s i o n in the v i l l a g e w h i c h b e c a m e d e p e n d a n t o n the w a g e s of w o r k i n g m e n and r e m a i n e d so as the y e a r s passed. By 1867 ne w piles w e r e n e e d e d to r e p l a c e t h ose e a t e n by the c o b r a or t eredo, a m a r i n e insect w h i c h m a d e h a voc w i t h h a r d w o o d p il es u n ti l it was d i s c o v e r e d at B e l l a m b i in J u l y 1867 that t u r p e n t i n e r e s i s t e d it. In the r e c o n s t r u c t i o n L o n g m o r e use d t u r p e n t i n e but d e s p i t e r e p a i r s a p o r t i o n of

the p i e r was w a s h e d aw ay b y h e a v y seas on 21 June, c a r r y i n g four m e n w i t h it. R e c o n s t r u c t i o n on a n e w p r i n c i p l e b eg an i m m e d i a t e l y and wa s c o m p l e t e d by N o v e m b e r . R e p air s w ere m a d e to the jetty w h i c h was l e n g t h e n e d b y 25 feet in 1877. U n f o r t u n a t e l y the e x p o s e d p o r t i o n of the Bulli j e t t y did not p r o v i d e safe a n c h o r a g e for ships and the T i g e r was w a s h e d a s h o r e and t o t a l l y w r e c k e d w i t h the loss of three lives, w h e n a w ind s p r a n g up w h i l s t she w a s w a i t i n g in the b i ght in J a n u a r y 1866. Th e M o s e l l e was s t r a n d e d o n the b e a c h in M a r c h 1867 and the G e o r g e d r i f t e d a s h o r e and was s m a s h e d to p i e c e s on M a y 22. Thus the first three s c h o o n e r s to load at the j e t t y m e t t h e i r d o o m n e a r b y w i t h i n a short time of e a c h other. A s u d d e n s tor m on S a t u r d a y 7 S e p t e m b e r 1867 b r o u g h t the end of two m o r e v e s s e l s w h i c h had been w a i t i n g in the bight, the M a t a d o r and B r igh t Planet. A l t h o u g h the v e s s e l s t ried to put out to sea the gal e b l e w t h e m on to the b e a c h n o rth of the jetty. On several o c c a s i o n s the S.S. W o n i o r a was at the w h a r f but was u n ab le to h e l p the scho one rs. The W o n i o r a i t s e l f went a s h o r e on B o ndi B e a c h one n i g h t in June 1880 but wa s t owed o f f next morning. H o w e v e r the ship left Bulli j e tty at 5 p.m. on S a t u r d a y 28 O c t o b e r 1882 w i t h 240 tons of coal. It m e t h e a v y w e a t h e r and f o u n d e r e d off B o t a n y Bay about 9 p.m. w i t h the loss of s e v e n t e e n lives, Hinrich F r e d e r i c k s e n a l one s a v i n g his life by d r i f t i n g a s h o r e . T h e e n q u i r y found that the ship had b e e n d r i v e n too fast in the h e a v y seas. The d e v e l o p m e n t of the m i n e b r o u g h t c o n t i n u o u s g r o w t h to Bulli , the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " of 27 S e p t e m b e r 1864 r e p o r t i n g that s inc e the o p e n i n g of the m i n e a little v i l l a g e h a d s p r u n g up at Bulli. A m o v e m e n t for the e s t a b l i s h m e n t of a N a t i o n a l Scho ol was b e g u n at a m e e t i n g at W i l l i a m S o m e r v i l l e ' s in M a r c h 1865 but H a r r is , the t e a c h e r at W o o n o n a two m i l e s away, o p p o s e d it. At the s e c o n d m e e t i n g at M i t c h e l l ' s home J o h n S o m e r v i l l e of f e r e d a site of one acre on the m o u n t a i n side of the m a i n road but it was not until W e d n e s d a y a f t e r n o o n 7 J u l y 1869 that the schoo l w as ope ned , h a v i n g bee n b uil t on land g i v e n by the Bulli Co al Co mp a n y . The b u i l d i n g s were of w e a t h e r b o a r d w i t h a m a s t e r ' s r e s i d e n c e a t t a c h e d on the n o r t h side. T h e y w e r e f o r m a l l y o p en ed "in the p r e s e n c e of a large c o n c o u r s e of r e s i d e n t s and v i s i t o r s " i n c l u d i n g the c h a i r m a n of the B ul li M i n i n g Company, P r o f e s s o r S m i t h and Rev. W. S t a c k of B a l m a i n w h o s a i led from S y d n e y in the S.S. B a r w o n to be p r e s e n t at the f e s t i v i t i e s . A f t e r the o p e n i n g the 200 c h i l d r e n w e r e t r e a t e d to " tea and b u n s " in the p l a y g r o u n d and the 300 p a r e nts and f r i e n d s to tea in a tent. The s c h o o l o p e r a t e d u n d e r the C o u n c i l of E d u c a t i o n an d in D e c e m b e r the r e s i d e n t s me t to v o i c e o b j e c t i o n to the h i g h fees b e i n g c h a r g e d for sch o o l i n g . The school b u i l d i n g s cost £50 0 of w h i c h the C o u n c i l of E d u c a t i o n ga ve twothirds and the local p e o p l e the b ala n c e , for w h i c h the Bulli Coal C o m p a n y a d d e d £50 to its gift of the site. By M a r c h 1870 the e n r o l m e n t r e a c h e d 100. Bulli p e o p l e raise d the m o n e y to b u y a w a t e r tank b y a r r a n g i n g a c o n c e r t a t t e n d e d by 250 p e o p l e in the school, the d e s k s b e i n g r e m o v e d for the event. Mr s Shoobert, w i f e of the Bulli Coal C o m p a n y sec r e t a r y , m a d e an a n n ual gift of b ooks and p r i z e s and in 1873 a l s o g a v e a picnic. At the end

34 35

of 1874, d u r i n g the c o n t r o v e r s y of p u bli c v e r s u s d e n o m i n a t i o n a l s c h o o l s , p u b l i c m e e t i n g at Bulli p l e d g e d suppo rt for the P u b li c S c h o o l s Le ag ue.

a

T h e P r i m i t i v e M e t h o d i s t s b e g a n to b u i l d t h e i r B u l l i c h ap el in M a r c h 1867, m e e t i n g m e a n w h i l e in W o o n o n a School of Arts. The c h a p e l was b u i l t " b e t w e e n B u l l i and W o o n o n a " but nea r w h e re the B u l l i r a i l w a y s t a t i o n w a s later e r e c t e d and wa s b u i l t to the d e s i g n of F a w c e t t on land g i v e n by G. O r g a n of Wollongong. It w a s c o n s t r u c t e d of w e a t h e r b o a r d w i t h iron ro of and was d e s c r i b e d in 1878 as "a little c a b i n - l i k e b u i l d i n g over w h i c h we read ' P r i mit ive M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h ' " w h i l s t in 1880 it w a s d e s c r i b e d as " l i k e a J e w i s h t a b e r n a c l e , v e r y s h a b b y and s i t u a t e d in the c e n t r e of a ba re pa dd o c k " . It w a s a l s o k n o w n as N o a h ' s A r k and wa s p u lle d d o w n in 1885 w h e n the tru s t e e s b e g a n to e r e c t a b r i c k church. D u r i n g the Q u e e n ' s B i r t h d a y w e e k - e n d there w a s a c o n c e r t in P a l l i e r ' s A s s e m b l y R o o m o n S a t u r d a y and an o p e n air s e r v i c e on S u n d a y w h i l s t Mrs Br ig ht laid the f o u n d a t i o n s tone of the n e w c h u r c h on M o n d a y 25 May. The b u i l d i n g was o p e n e d on S u n d a y 23 Augu st. The c h u r c h floor had a g r a d u a l s lo pe towa rds the r ost rum , a n e w d e p a r t u r e for b u i l d i n g s in the d i s t r i c t . It was lit b y six k e r o s e n e lamps h a n g i n g f r o m the c eiling. The b u i l d i n g s till stan ds o p p o s i t e D u m b r e l l S t re et near the c o r n e r of the m a i n r o a d and F a r re ll Road as the Bulli Wor ker s' Club. On the o p p o s i t e side of the m a i n road, a short d i s t a n c e north, h e a d q u a r t e r s w e r e set up by the Bulli S a l v a t i o n A r m y C o rps w h i c h wa s e s t a b l i s h e d on 4 J u n e 1887. The "Army " c o n t i n u e d its w o r k t here until it a l t e r e d its l o c a t i o n to W o o n o n a in 1918. T h r o u g h all the y e a r s from its f o u n d a t i o n u nti l the n i n e t i e s B u l l i d i d not hav e a public ce me t e r y , the n e a r e s t public burial ground being at W o l l o n g o n g w h e r e f u n e r a l s w ere c o n duc ted . In 1868 t ru ste es for A n g l i c a n , P r e s b y t e r i a n and R o m a n C a t h o l i c p o r t i o n s of a c e m e t e r y to be e s t a b l i s h e d at Bu lli w e r e a n n o u n c e d , w h i l s t tr us t e e s w e r e r e q u i r e d for Jewi sh , W e s l e y a n and C o n g r e g a t i o n a l . H o w e v e r a m e e t i n g in 1869 c o n d e m n e d the site w h i c h was " n e a r the w e s t s ide of the B u l l i Pass R oad at a c o n s i d e r a b l e d i s t a n c e fro m its j u n c t i o n w i t h the N o r t h B u lli Road". T h e land w a s u n e v e n and t h r o u g h it p a s s e d a c r e e k w h i c h w o u l d be r e n d e r e d u n f i t for us e b e t w e e n the c e m e t e r y and the sea. The site h a l f a m i l e n o r t h of Bulli was a b a n d o n e d and then a plot w a s set a s ide on top of the m o u n t a i n range. It, too, was n e v e r used. N o t h i n g was don e to o p e n a c e m e t e r y un til in 1878 the A n g l i c a n a u t h o r i t i e s p u r c h a s e d two a c r e s fro m H o l d e n in P ark R oad for a b u r i a l g r o u n d for P r o t e s t a n t s of all d e n o m i n a t i o n s . The first f u n e r a l was c o n d u c t e d b y Rev. E. A n d e r s o n on S u n d a y 6 J a n u a r y 1878 w h e n the r e m a i n s of D a v i d C h a r l e s w o r t h w e r e laid to rest in the n o r t h - e a s t e r n c o r n e r . H is s a n d s t o n e e p i t a p h c r u d e l y c a r v e d b y a m a s o n of the time m a y be r e a d to this day. The c e m e t e r y side a l s o b e c a m e the site for the C h u r c h of E n g l a n d b u i l d i n g w h i c h was first m o o t e d at a tea m e e t i n g at the W o o n o n a Sch ool of A rts in J u l y 1879, w h e n it was a n n o u n c e d that £200 wa s a l r e a d y in hand for the p r o j e c t and M i s s O s b o r n e p r o m i s e d an A m e r i c a n organ. A f u r t h e r £113 was r a i s e d at the m eet i n g . B u ll i was c o n s t i t u t e d a s e p a r a t e p a r i s h n o r t h of R i x o n ' s L a n e in A u g u s t 1881 w h e n Rev. H u g h W a l k e r Ta ylo r, B.A. wa s a p p o i n t e d r e c t or ,

w h i c h he r e m a i n e d for 14 years. The p a r i s h i n c l u d e d S u t h e r l a n d H e a t h c o t e an d later H e l e n s b u r g h and O tfo r d w h e n they a ppe a r e d .

and

Xt w a s d e c i d e d to b u ild in timb er as t enders r e c e i v e d for a stone or b r i c k b u i l d i n g w e r e b e y o n d the m e a n s of the p a r i s h i o n e r s but in 1882 the t e nd er of O r p h i n and N e w s o n at £800 wa s a c c e p t e d for a b r i c k b u i l d i n g to seat 230 w h i c h wa s d e s i g n e d b y E.T. Blacket, ar ch i t e c t , of Sy dne y. The f o u n d a t i o n stone was laid on W e d n e s d a y 26 A p r i l by Rev. W. C o w p e r , M.A. , D e a n of Sydney, and the c h u r c h o p e n e d for D i v i n e W o r s h i p o n W e d n e s d a y 13 D e c e m b e r w h e n the B i s h o p of N o r t h Q u e e n s l a n d , R t . Rev. G.H. S t a n t o n , D.D., p r e a c h e d in the f o r e n o o n and Rev. J.F. Moran , B.A. of P i c t o n in the evening. The c h u r c h was b u ilt on a s to ne f o u n d a t i o n and w a s r o o f e d w i t h shing les . H.S. Fry, Thomas F a r r ell and William Dumbrell were the pioneer churchwardens. H.S. F r y was s u p e r i n t e n d e n t of the S u n d a y School. T he c h u r c h and b u r i a l g r o u n d w e r e c o n s e c r a t e d b y B i s h o p Barry, P r i m a t e of A u s t r a l i a , on 22 O c t o b e r 1884. A p r o m i n e n t p a r i s h i o n e r and d i s t r i c t figur e was F.P. M a c C a b e , m a j o r of the s o uth coast forces, w h o r e s i d e d w i t h his w i f e and large f a m i l y on his f arm at R u s s e l l V a l e and d r o v e in his b u g g y to St. A u g u s t i n e ' s on S u n d a y m o r n i n g s . The r e m a i n s of the g r e a t e r n u m b e r lost in the g r e a t B u l l i m i n e e x p l o s i o n in 1887, t h o u g h m o s t of them w e r e W e s l e y a n s , w e r e b u r i e d in the c h u r c h y a r d bes i d e the c h u r c h w h e r e t oda y they r e m a i n e a c h s i m p l y i n s c r i b e d " B u l l i Di s a s t e r " . The p u b l i c c e m e t e r y was at last s i ted f a c i n g the s e a s h o r e just s o u t h of W a n i o r a P o i n t in 1887, w h e n the h e a v i l y t i m b e r e d are a of e igh t acres on a s mall k no ll was s e l e c t e d for an a l l - d e n o m i n a t i o n c em e t e r y . The first i n t e r m e n t t ook place there in 1896 w i t h the b u r i a l of the y o u n g e s t son of Rev. J.H. Lewin, the M e t h o d i s t m i n i s t e r . A bo ut the sa me time as the C h u r c h of E n g l a n d w a s b e i n g b u ilt the first Bulli R o m a n C a t h o l i c C h u r c h - s c h o o l was a lso b u i l t a l t h o u g h a small s c h ool had b e e n c o n d u c t e d for a few y e ar s fro m 1863 in a s m a l l slab b u i l d i n g . The actu al site "o n the n o r t h sid e of the m a i n road, o n the W o o n o n a side of M a i l b a g H o l l o w " was just s o u t h of S l a c k y F l a t b o w l i n g g r e e n site of t o day and was p u r c h a s e d from W i l l i a m C a m p b e l l b y V e r y Rev. Dr F l an aga n, p a r i s h priest, in 1880. M a t e r i a l s w e r e soon on the g r o u n d and on S u n d a y 11 J u l y M a s s was c e l e b r a t e d w i t h i n the h a l f fin is h e d w a l l s by D e a n F l a n a g a n in the p r e s e n c e of His G r a c e A r c h b i s h o p V a u g h a n and p r i e s t s of s u r r o u n d i n g pa ri s h e s . The b u i l d i n g of b r i c k c o s t i n g a bout £400 to seat 100 p e o p l e w a s b u i l t by C ava n a g h . The c h u r c h of St. J o s e p h was o p e n e d and b l e s s e d b y V e r y Rev. M o n s . L y n c h of C a m p b e l l t o w n a s s i s t e d by v i s i t i n g p rie s t s on S u n d a y 11 S e p t e m b e r 1881. In it the S is t e r s of St. J o s e p h o p e n e d the R o m a n C a t h o l i c Schoo l on M o n d a y 13 F e b r u a r y 1882 w i t h 50 s c h ola rs. It s e r v e d for a q u a r t e r of a c e n t u r y b e f o r e the site was a b a n d o n e d for a m o r e p r o m i n e n t and s p a c i o u s one in P a r k Road. The s a c red d u t i e s of the c h u r c h e s w e r e s u p p l e m e n t e d f r o m e a r l i e s t ti mes at Bulli by the f r i e n d l y s o c i e t i e s w h i c h w e r e o r i g i n a l l y b e g u n to p r o v i d e for the n e eds of w o r k i n g m e n and t h eir f a m i l i e s in c a s e of lack of w o r k and in times of s ick n e s s and want. T h e first s o c i e t y w a s the Bulli and B e l l a m b i

37 B e n e f i t S o c i e t y i n a u g u r a t e d at a m e e t i n g of 28 p e o p l e in Ziems' R o y a l H o t e l in 1865 w h e n the d i s t r i c t was b u r d e n e d w i t h s u b s c r i p t i o n lists s e e k i n g aid for the d e s t i t u t e and dis t r e s s e d . At the t ime there was no s o c i e t y n e a r e r th an Sydney. E a c h m e m b e r paid 2s per m o n t h to d r a w 15s per w e e k s i c k p a y a f t e r a c e r t a i n time. R e v i s e d r ules m et the c h a l l e n g e of i m p o s i t i o n on the funds and a n n u a l a n n i v e r s a r y d i n n e r s w e r e h e l d u nt il 1874 a f t e r w h i c h they became irregular. The Sons of T e m p e r a n c e Lo dge soo n f o l l o w e d w i t h the Star of F r e e d o m L o d g e an d for the l a d i e s the L i l y of the Val l e y . T he B e l m o r e Band of H o p e was f o r m e d in 1870. The F o r res te rs' C o ur t o p e n e d in 1874 and the M a r q u i s of A r g y l e L o d g e of the P r o t e s t a n t A l l i a n c e F r i e n d l y S o c i e t y the s a m e year. The G o o d T e m p l a r s ' L od ge was f o r med at the P r i m i t i v e M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h in 1876. L o d g e s w e r e life to the d i s t r i c t in t h ose da ys b e f o r e p i c t u r e shows, su rf i n g , cars and radio. A n n u a l p i c n i c s at B u ll i P o in t and a t h l e t i c g a t h e r i n g s , on the o l d B u l l i b r i c k p a d d o c k t o w a r d s the m o u n t a i n f r o m the p u b l i c school, w h e n b a n d s p l a y e d w e r e a t t e n d e d by h u n d r e d s of peo p l e . N e w Y e a r ' s Day, A n n i v e r s a r y Day and Bo xi n g D a y were al wa y s m a r k e d b y a p i c n i c a t t e n d e d by a l m o s t all the r e s i d e n t s of the d i s t r i c t w h i l s t the P r i n c e of Wales' B i r t h d a y in N o v e m b e r was the W e s l e y a n S u n d a y S c h o o l p i c n i c a t t e n d e d by a s i m i l a r n u m be r. I

I

The ne ed for a h all for the a c t i v i t i e s of the v a r i o u s lodg es w a s m e t in 1885 w h e n the O d d f e l l o w s ' Hall was buil t. It was e r e c t e d u n d e r c o n t r a c t b y J. M c I n t o s h for £4 74 u s i ng bri cks and s t o n e s u p p l i e d u n d e r s u p e r v i s i o n of H.S. Fry. It o c c u p i e d "a c e n t r a l p o s i t i o n in the s c a t t e r e d l o c a l i t i e s that go to m a k e up the t o w n s h i p of Bulli, b e i n g not far from the si te of the r a i l w a y stat ion ". It was a c t u a l l y on the n o r t h e r n side of the m a i n ro ad just s ou th of O r g a n ' s Road and s u b s e q u e n t l y b e c a m e the M a s o n i c T emp l e . T he f o u n d a t i o n s tone w as laid by W i l l i a m W i l e y for the G r a n d U n i t e d O r d e r of F o r e s t e r s and a d o c u m e n t was p l a c e d in a b o t t l e u n d e r the stone. T h e hall w a s used for the first time for a c o n c e r t a f t e r the B o x i n g D a y p i c n i c in D ece mbe r. It co st £ 1000 w i t h f u r n i s h i n g s and ha d an a n t e - r o o m at the rear. T h e b r i c k s for the c o n s t r u c t i o n of the O d d f e l l o w s ' H a l l and for b u i l d i n g in Bulli and W o o n o n a w er e m a d e "on an e l e v a t i o n at the rear of the c o u r t h o u s e s o u t h of and o v e r l o o k i n g the p r o p o s e d s t a t i o n at Bulli". B u l l i ' s f irst b r i c k w o r k s wer e a b a n d o n e d wi th the b u i l d i n g of the r a i l w a y w h i c h p a s s e d a c r o s s their site and w h e r e the g o o d s y a r d w a s c o n s t r u c t e d . The p r o d u c t i o n of b r ick s then b e g a n at W o o n o n a w h e r e P e n d l e b u r y ' s w o r k s w e r e ope ne d. B ul li p ion eer s, w h e n they r e q u i r e d m e d i c a l aid, had to trave l the s i x m i l e s to W o l l o n g o n g in the e a r l y days bu t w h e n t r a d e was d e p r e s s e d in the e a r l y s e v e n t i e s d o c t o r s b e g a n to v isi t B u ll i f r o m W o l l o n g o n g . Dr H a l l is r e c o r d e d as first, then Dr S e d g w i c k w h o left the G r e n f e l l d i g g i n g s in the si xti es , and Dr L y o n s who d r o v e out e v e r y F r i d a y in the s e v e n t i e s . The f r i e n d l y s o c i e t i e s d id m u c h to e n s u r e the a v a i l a b i l i t y of a d o c t o r and a s s i s t e d h i m f i n a n ci al ly. Dr Lyons' o f f e r to v i s i t once a w e e k and o p e n a d r u g g i s h sh op at B ull i w h e r e he w o u l d p l a c e a n a s s i s t a n t was a c c e p t e d in 1878. H o w e v e r Dr L y ons r e s i g n e d in S e p t e m b e r 1879 and 18 a p p l i c a t i o n s w e r e r e c e i v e d for a n o t h e r d o c t o r in r e s p o n s e to an a d v e r t i s e m e n t . Dr J a m e s S h a w

f the G r e a t C o b a r C o p p e r M i n e was s el e c t e d b y c o l l i e r y e m p l o y e e s but it ° two m o n t h s b e f o r e he a r r i v e d v i a the D a r l i n g R i v e r and M e l b o u r n e . Dr ^ nS w a s a c c o r d e d a p r e s e n t a t i o n in J a n u a r y 1880. In A p r i l Dr S h a w r e s i g n e d an d left his a s s i s t a n t , Dr Gould, to c o m p l e t e his t e r m of offic e. He was s u c c e e d e d b y Dr H e i n e m a n n w h o left in 1881. Dr T.J. S tur t t o o k up ra ct i c e and was a c t i v e at the time of the e x p l o s i o n in 1887. He r e t i r e d in 1889 w h e n his son Dr C l i f t o n S t urt took up the p r a c t i c e . B o t h d i e d at the end of 1901. The r a p i d a d v a n c e m e n t of B u l l i in the s e v e n t i e s b r o u g h t an i n c r e a s e in the n u m b e r of sh ops and c o m m e r c i a l h o u s e s as w ell as i m p r o v e m e n t s to th ose exi s t i n g , p a r t i c u l a r l y to h o t e l s w h i c h had a s s e m b l y r o o m s w h e r e m e e t i n g s and c o n c e r t s w e r e h eld from time to time. D u d l e y c o n d u c t e d the Star of the Sea H o t e l w h i l s t the B l a c k D i a m o n d H o te l b ui lt in B u l l i ' s e a r l i e s t y e a r s was d o u b l e d in size b y W i l s o n in 1878 w h e n B ul li had three h o t e l s w h i l s t W o o n o n a had two. S outh of B ull i v i l l a g e on the h i l l t o p J.P. O r v a d r e b u i l t the t w o - s t o r e y e d D e n m a r k H o t e l in b r i c k front in 1886. L a t e r P. D ' A r c y c o n d u c t e d the R a i l w a y H o t e l w h e r e the coal t r a m w a y c r o s s e d the m a i n road and S. K i r t o n to ok o ver the B l a c k D i a m o n d w h i c h f i n a lly c l o s e d in 1893. Banking needs we re m e t w i t h the o p e n i n g of a b r a n c h of the E.S. and A. B ank in F ry's store in 1878 w i t h Pile, f o r m e r l y of Mos s Vale, as m a n a g e r . The Post O f f i c e at Bulli was first o p e n e d on 1 O c t o b e r 1869 b y G.S. T u r n b u l l in the store w h i c h he o p e n e d d u r i n g the t i m e he wa s c o n s t r u c t i n g the Bulli P as s road. M a i l s fro m S y d n e y to W o l l o n g o n g w e r e first c a r r i e d on p a c k h o r s e d o w n the B u lli M o u n t a i n and later v i a B r o u g h t o n ' s Pas s and M o u n t Keira. W i t h the c o n s t r u c t i o n of Rix on 's Pass in 1859 the m a i l s w e r e c a r r i e d by that r o ute in a t w o - h o r s e cart. H o w e v e r the r ou te w as too r o u n d a b o u t and w h e n G e o r g e O r g a n t ook the m a i l c o n t r a c t he c l e a r e d and u s e d W e s t m a c o t t ' s Pass w h i c h he m a d e p a s s a b l e for a w h e e l e d veh ic l e . Bulli g r e w to have five s t o re s by 1879. T u r n b u l l b u i l t a large r o o m b e s i d e his store for use as a post o f f i c e w h e n the t e l e g r a p h o f f i c e w h i c h had b e e n o p e r a t e d at the j e t t y was r e m o v e d to the n e w o f f i c e in the v i l l a g e and J.H. M i l l e r was a p p o i n t e d post and t e l e g r a p h m a s t e r . The t e l e g r a p h line, o r i g i n a l l y o p e n e d b e t w e e n W o l l o n g o n g and B e l l a m b i w h e n the first m e s s a g e was sent on 28 A u g u s t 1862, w as e x t e n d e d to B u l l i in 1877 and o p e r a t e d at the jetty. T h e r e w e r e i m m e d i a t e c o m p l a i n t s that the o f f i c e was too far away from the t o w n s h i p and b u s i n e s s ce nt r e and d e m a n d s that pos t and t e l e g r a p h b u s i n e s s sho u l d be d o n e at the same o f f i c e c e n t r a l l y si tu a t e d . P e o p l e had to w a l k d o w n the c oal t r a m w a y to r e a c h the of fic e. A public m e e t i n g in M a r c h 1879 r e s o l v e d to p e t i t i o n the G o v e r n m e n t to e s t a b l i s h the post and t e l e g r a p h o f f i c e at B u l l i and suc c e e d e d . T u r n b u l l ' s s e r v i c e s to the c o m m u n i t y w e r e r e c o g n i s e d w h e n he was p r e s e n t e d w i t h an a d d r e s s at W i l s o n ' s A s s e m b l y R o o m in 1879. W i t h the g r o w t h of Bulli p r o p e r there a ro se in the s e v e n t i e s a d e m a n d fo r a s c h oo l of arts, the B e l l a m b i and B u lli S c h o o l of A r t s at W o o n o n a b e i n g two m i l e s a w a y from the s e t t l e m e n t w h i c h by that time had c e n t r e d on B u l l i n e a r the m ine. The coal c o m p a n y o f f e r e d a g o o d site on its land n o r t h of the W e s l e y a n C h u r c h but s u b s c r i p t i o n s to e n a b l e c o n s t r u c t i o n w e r e s l o w to be o f f e r e d in

38 39

1878. V a r i o u s e n t e r t a i n m e n t s were o r g a n i s e d to a u g me nt the f u nds d u r i n g the fe w y e a r s b u t in J u l y 1880 a m e e t i n g d e c i d e d to leave the f unds at i n t e r e s t for a n o t h e r six months. In M a r c h 1881 it was r e p o r t e d that the p r o j e c t had c o l l a p s e d , a f t e r w h i c h Bu lli u s e d the b u i l d i n g at W o o n o n a and v a r i o u s hotel, l o d g e and c h u r c h p r e m i s e s for f u n c t i o n s and e n t e r t a i n m e n t s . The p e o p l e had m o r e su cc e s s in their e f f o r t s to se cu r e a p o l i c e s t a t i o n and c o u r t h o use f a c i l i t i e s at Bulli. The l o c k - u p of two c el ls w a s b u i l t in 1880 and u s e d for the first time in 11 A u g u s t w h e n an u n f o r t u n a t e s pent 48 ho urs in it for d r u n k e n n e s s . A g i t a t i o n for the e s t a b l i s h m e n t of a c o u r t of p e t t y s e s s i o n s an d c o urt house at B u l l i was f u r t h e r e d by a p u b l i c m e e t i n g in O r v a r d ' s D e n m a r k H o t e l in S e p b e m b e r 1879 w h e n the i n c o n v e n i e n c e and e x p e n s e of t r a v e l l i n g to W o l l o n g o n g was e m p h a s i s e d . As a r e s u l t a d e p u t a t i o n w a i t e d u p o n the M i n i s t e r for J u s t i c e . In 1881 at a p u b l i c m e e t i n g d e m a n d s for a co urt ho use w e r e linked w i t h those for a r e c r e a t i o n g r o u n d and c e m e t e r y . In O c t o b e r that y e a r £1 500 was p l a c e d o n the p a r l i a m e n t a r y e s t i m a t e s for a court h o u s e at Bulli. It was b u i l t soo n a f t e r w a r d s on the e a s t e r n side of the m a i n ro ad b e t w e e n F a r r e l l R o a d and H o p e t o u n S tre e t of la ter years and r em a i n s in use to this day. F r o m its e a r l i e s t times the Bulli d i s t r i c t p r o g r e s s had b e e n r e p o r t e d and f o s t e r e d b y the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " e s t a b l i s h e d at W o l l o n g o n g on 8 O c t o b e r 1855 from the f iles of which, p r e s e r v e d a l m o s t c o m p l e t e l y in the M i t c h e l l and P u b l i c L i b r a r i e s at Sydney, the g r e a t e r part of this s t o r y ha s b e e n compiled. It was f o l l o w e d by the e s t a b l i s h m e n t of the " I l l a w a r r a E x p r e s s " in 1860 and in 1863 by the " I l l a w a r r a B a n n e r " w h i c h b e c a m e the " W o l l o n g o n g A r g u s " in 1876. F e w o n l y of the issues of the two f orm e r pa pe r s a p p e a r to s u r v i v e b u t files of the " A r g u s " f r o m 1878 u nti l it b e c a m e the " S o u t h C o as t T i m e s " in J a n u a r y 1900 c o n t a i n n ews of Bulli and its d i s t r i c t . H o w e v e r B ul li was b r o u g h t in to b e t t e r focus for local p e o p l e w h e n the " B u l l i and C l i f t o n T i m e s " a p p e a r e d on S a t u r d a y 3 J u l y 1886 u n d e r the p r o p r i e t o r s h i p of F.W. W i l s o n , late of K i am a. It was p u b l i s h e d twice w e e k l y but o n l y few of its files r e m a i n in e x i s t e n c e . S p o r t i n g ne ws did not o c c u p y a n o t i c e a b l e part in the p a p e r s of the time but r e c r e a t i o n was e s t a b l i s h e d e a r l y in the h i s t o r y of the d i s t r i c t . C r i c k e t was the p r i n c i p a l sport of the e a r l y days. B e l l a m b i h a d a c l u b in 1861 and B ul li and A p p i n soo n followed. B u l l i ha d the " B l a c k D i a m o n d " c l u b in 1878 w h e n C l i f t o n form ed a club. F o o t r a c i n g was p o p u l a r an d was f e a t u r e d at all the p i c n i c s w h i c h w e r e f e a t u r e s of B u ll i life. U n d e r the title " p e d e s t r i a n i s m " it g r e w in p o p u l a r i t y at B u l l i in 1879 and m a n y local m a t c h e s w e r e s u p p l e m e n t e d by p r o f e s s i o n a l c h a l l e n g e s . Robert Crompton b e c a m e B u l l i 1s c h a m p i o n f o o t r unn er, the u s u a l r a c i n g l e ng th of the time b e i n g 150 y ard s w i t h stak es of £10 and £50 a side. The m o s t t h r i l l i n g e v e nt of the e i g h t i e s was, p e r h a p s , the g r e a t f o o t r a c e b e t w e e n G a r d i n e r of W o o n o n a and T o l a n d of A p p i n at the B u l l i C o m p a n y ' s b r i c k p a d d o c k in M a y 1880. Six h u n d r e d p e o p l e a t t e n d e d and f r e e l y laid bet s on th eir favourite. The 150 y a r d s was m e a s u r e d and r o p ed off w i t h a rope b e t w e e n the runners. J a m e s M a h e r of F i g t r e e was s t a r t e r and A n d r e w L y s a g h t of W o l l o n g o n g wa s judge. G a r d i n e r w o n b y four or five y e a r d s a f t e r

T o l a n d ' s friends d e s e r t e d him. His t r a i n e r and b a c k e r left at once for A p p i n . T o l a n d sat d o w n and wept b i t t e r l y and was lent £1 and a pair of b o o t s to go b a c k to A p p i n and then ce to Wag g a , his ho me town. which

All f orms of sport at Bulli w e r e d i f f i c u l t to o r g a n i s e in the a b s e n c e of a r o p e r r e c r e a t i o n ground. The B u l l i P oin t ne ar the j e tty and the b r i c k p a d d o c k n e a r the foot of the m o u n t a i n b e h i n d the s c h oo l w e r e a l w a y s m a d e a v a i l a b l e by the m i n i n g c o m p a n y but it was felt that a pub li c g r o u n d was preferable. It was s tat e d that m o s t y o u n g m e n spent t heir spare time in the b i l l i a r d rooms or p ubl i c h ou s e s for w a n t of o u t d o o r f aci l i t i e s . The n e e d for m o r e r e c r e a t i o n g r o u n d s was e m p h a s i s e d w h e n Bulli h a l f - h o l i d a y m o v e m e n t b e g a n in D e c e m b e r 1880. P r i o r to that there w a s no h a l f ho lid ay , sh ops b e i n g o p e n six days a w e e k f rom 8 a.m. to 11 p.m. W e d n e s d a y was s o u g h t as the hal f h o l i d a y at the time. F l o y d ' s Poin t, by w h i c h name W a n i o r a P oin t was known, was u s e d for spor ts m e e t i n g s but in A pri l 1886 Bulli p u bl ic p a r k was taken in t rust by A r c h i b a l d C a m p b e l l of W o l l o n g o n g as trustee. A f t e r s u c c e s s f u l e f f o r t s by H.S. F r y 25 acres b e t w e e n the r a i l w a y s t a t i o n and the sea, of w h i c h F a r r e l l had b e e n the lessee, w e r e p u r c h a s e d f rom G. C r o f t at £45 per acr e for p u b lic p u r p o s e s . C r o f t gave the land for the e x t e n s i o n of P a r k R oad to the s e a s i d e at T r i n i t y Row. It was p o i n t e d out that p a r k land w o u l d be n e e d e d f r o m B u l l i to Coa l C l i f f as n one was a v a i l a b l e at that time and a m o v e m e n t was s t a r t e d to a c q u i r e p a r k l a n d for the people. In 1879 a m o v e was m a d e for the d e d i c a t i o n of a g r e at n a t i o n a l p a r k for the p e o p l e b e t w e e n the n o r t h e r n b o u n d a r i e s of the Bulli d i s t r i c t an d Port H ack i n g , i n c l u d i n g the W a t t a m o l l a boat har b o u r . The t r u s t e e s first m et in Se p t e m b e r . The f o l l o w i n g y ear it was e x t e n d e d to i ncl u d e 3 5,0 0 0 a cr es and r o a d s w e r e f o r med t h r o u g h it. In 1885 the G o v e r n m e n t c o n s t r u c t e d a b r a n c h r a i l w a y to it from S u t h e r l a n d on its n o r t h e r n b o u n d a r y . A f t e r the c o n s t r u c t i o n of the r a i l w a y n e a r the w e s t e r n b o u n d a r y the land on the w e s t e r n side of the line was m a d e a v a i l a b l e for b u i l d i n g in 1902. The d e v e l o p m e n t of the d i s t r i c t c a u s e d the l e a d i n g c i t i z e n s to d e s i r e the f o r m a t i o n of a m u n i c i p a l i t y to care for its r o a d s and b r i d g e s in a local w a y r a t h e r tha n d e p e n d on the s m a l l e r w o r k d o n e b y the road s u p e r i n t e n d e n t s w i t h g o v e r n m e n t grants. P o s i t i v e a c t i o n in 1879 in p e t i t i o n i n g the G o v e r n m e n t to i n c o r p o r a t e B u l l i as a m u n i c i p a l i t y was n e g a t i v e d by a m u c h m o r e l a r g e l y s ign e d c o u n t e r - p e t i t i o n w h i c h s e e m e d to ha ve g i v e n the death-blow to proposals at the time, although progressive citizens c o n t i n u e d to r e c o g n i s e the n eed for a m u n i c i p a l i t y if p r o g r e s s was to be made. The ti re l e s s H.S. Fry c h a i r e d a m e e t i n g in O r v a r d ' s r oom s in 1886 w h e n a c o m m i t t e e wa s formed to se ek to a r r a n g e a m e e t i n g of the r e s i d e n t s of Bulli, Wo ono na, Robbinsville and North Bull i. The m e e t i n g in the O d d f e l l o w s ' H a l l soug ht a m u n c i p a l i t y b o u n d e d b y a line from the n o r t h - e a s t c o r n e r of the N or th I l l a w a r r a m u n i c i p a l i t y at B e l l a m b i a l o n g the c o a s t to the n o r t h e r n b o u n d a r y of J a m e s Hicks' 300 acres , t h e nce to the road on top of the m o u n t a i n and a lo ng its w e s t e r n si de to the b o u n d a r y of N o r t h Ill a w a r r a . It had an area of less tha n 50 s q u a r e m i l e s and a p o p u l a t i o n of 500. An a m e n d m e n t that the m e e t i n g did not f a v o u r i n c o r p o r a t i o n wa s

40 41

carried. Another attempt d e f e a t e d b y the people.

the

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was

F r o m the days of the s e t t l e m e n t of the d i s t r i c t the f irst ro ad was the B u l l i P a r i s h R o a d from W o l l o n g o n g to the s c a t t e r e d s e t t l e m e n t s of the pioneers. It w a s a d m i n i s t e r e d by a trust u n t i l 1878. T he t o l l b a r on the r o a d at S o uth B ulli y i e l d e d a small a m o u n t w h i c h was s p e n t on r o a d maintenance. S t u m p i n g of the road b e t w e e n B u l l i and W o o n o n a w a s c a r r i e d out in 1880 w h e n " b l a c k m e t a l " was s p rea d o n the road and it w a s r e p o r t e d "We h ave too m u c h s l a c k about B ulli w i t h o u t h a v i n g o u r s e l v e s b l i n d e d and b l a c k e n e d w i t h it on a p u bli c road". The f o l l o w i n g y e a r the h o l l o w ne ar the B ulli p u b l i c schoo l was fill ed in and the road i m p r o v e d t h r o u g h the t o w n s h i p w h i c h at the time c e n t r e d b e t w e e n the school and the W e s l e y a n C h u r c h on the first h i l l t o p s o ut h of it. D e m a n d s b e g a n for the c u t t i n g dow n of the h i lls on the road w h i c h c r o s s e d s p u r a f ter spur. In 1881 the d e m a n d was for c u t t i n g into the f i rst h ill s o u t h of the foot of B ulli Pass - S m e d l e y ' s Hill - and int o the h i lls to the so ut h w a r d . H u n g r y Hill was that s o u t h of the " s l a c k f l a t " but the w o r s t of all was C h a r l e s w o r t h ' s Hill at the foot of R i x o n ' s Pas s w h e r e a d e e p c u t t i n g and a h i g h and wi de e m b a n k m e n t on the n o r t h si de r e m a i n to b e a r w i t n e s s to the w o r k done. M e a n w h i l e the F r e e S e l e c t i o n Act of 1861 o p e n e d up s e l e c t i o n s at " N o r t h B u l l i " - the a r e a from the B ul li of t oda y to Coal Clif f, e v e n t u a l l y l o c a l i s e d as A u s t i n m e r . The road was e v e n t u a l l y o p e n e d b y the r e m o v a l of o b s t r u c t i n g f e nce s a l o n g its line and the g ift of mo st of the land u p o n w h i c h the road w a s formed from the foot of B ull i Pass to the C o a l Clif f. S u r v e y o r A r n h e i m o p e n e d the road in O c t o b e r 1868. Th at road f ol l o w e d the c o a s t l i n e but the t h r o u g h road to Syd n e y , at first b y w a y of Appin, was e v e n t u a l l y r e p l a c e d by a ro ad fr om the top of the B u l l i Pass a l o n g the h i g h c o u n t r y n o r t h w a r d s to G e o r g e ' s R i v e r , c r o s s i n g first at L u g a r n o and later at T o m U g l y ' s Point. The few s e t t l e r s in the e a r l y y ears of I l l a w a r r a found an o v e r l a n d r out e fr om S y d n e y s h o r t e r than that via Appin. It c r o s s e d G e o r g e ' s R i v e r w h e r e a punt was i n s t a l l e d , f o l l o w e d a r idge t h r o u g h M e na i, d r o p p e d d o w n and c r o s s e d the W o r o n o r a ne ar its h e a d w a t e r s at H e a t h c o t e then k n o w n as B o t t l e Forest, a n d t h e n a l o n g a r i d g e and the t a b l e l a n d to the top of the B u l l i Pass. In the forties S u r v e y o r Sir T h o m a s M i t c h e l l had a r oa d c o n s t r u c t e d a l o n g that route and the r ema i n s still e x i s t a r o u n d the W o r o n o r a R i v e r n e a r the m i l i t a r y road. It was r e p o r t e d in 1841 a p a r t y of h o r s e m e n i n c l u d i n g a c o n s t a b l e we re s u r r o u n d e d by a b u s h f i r e in w h i c h the c o n s t a b l e lost his life. B u s h f i r e d a n g e r c a u s e d p e o p l e to look u p o n the r o u t e w i t h d i s f a v o u r for 25 years. L i t t l e t r a f fi c u sed the roa d and e f f o r t s in the f i f t i e s f a i led to induc e p e o p l e to use it. The old t r a c k b e c a m e o v e r g r o w n u n t i l in a b o u t 1865 J o h n B i g g a r of W o l l o n g o n g d r e w a t t e n t i o n to the route, i n d u c e d the G o v e r n m e n t to p l a c e it on the e s t i m a t e s as a t h i r d - c l a s s roa d and then w i t h R.T. H a y l e s d r o v e the first f o u r - h o r s e c o a c h t h r o u g h to J.P. O r v a d ' s at G e o r g e ' s River.

In 1870 the L e g i s l a t i v e A s s e m b l y v o t e d £400 for the f o r m a t i o n of the r oad f r o m G e o r g e ' s Ri ver to the top of the Bulli M o u n t a i n w h e r e it j o i n e d the oad f r o m Appin. It was one rod w i d e to a l l o w a v e h i c l e to be t a k e n f r o m S y d n e y to W o l l o n g o n g in six h o urs and to o pe n a d i r e c t a p p r o a c h to Illawarra. A l o n g it w e r e to be see n m a g n i f i c e n t v i e w s as w e l l as n a t i v e game, w a l l a b i e s and k a n g a r o o s and a p l e n t e o u s v a r i e t y of b i r d life. No s e t t l e r s had e s t a b l i s h e d t h e m s e l v e s a lo ng the r o u t e s o u t h of S i r T h o m a s Ho lt n e a r the ferry at G e o r g e ' s River. Bott le F o r e s t had b e e n laid out and s e t t l e d p r e v i o u s l y but had b e e n a b a n d o n e d as there w a s no r o u t e to m a r k e t . t

The road was in use b y 1871 wi th a few b o g g y p a t c h e s at M a d d e n ' s P lains. T h e e i g h t e e n - m i l e s e c t i o n b e t w e e n the Bulli Pass and B o t t l e F o r e s t had for t r u s t e e s J o h n Bi gg a r and R.T. H a y l e s of W o l l o n g o n g and W. C a m p b e l l of Bulli. J o h n Payne was a d d e d in 1872. In the s e v e n t i e s and e a r l y e i g h t i e s h o r s e m e n rode from W o l l o n g o n g to Tempe, left their h o r s e s at the h o t e l p a d d o c k and took the A r n c l i f f e bus to Sydney. A toll was c h a r g e d for c r o s s i n g G e o r g e ' s R i v e r p un t w h i c h c o m m e n c e d r u n n i n g in 1864. At a p o i n t w he re the ro ad f r o m G e o r g e ' s R i v e r met the road fr om A p p i n on the top of the Bu lli M o u n t a i n g r e w a n e w s e t t l e m e n t at the time the G e o r g e ' s R i v e r Road was ope ned . O n e of the e a r l i e s t s e l e c t o r s on the h i l l s and d ale s on Bulli M o u n t a i n a few m i l e s s o u t h - w e s t of the roa d j u n c t i o n was W i l l i a m B r o wn of D a p t o w h o s e l e c t e d F e r n d a l e in 1873 for o r c h a r d p ur p o s e s . It was found that E n g l i s h fruit tr ees w o u l d t h ri ve on the m o u n t a i n top w h i c h was 1000 feet a bo ve the sea, w i t h a p l e n t e o u s r ain f a l l . He c l a r e d the b ush, pla nte d 75 a c r e s and tried m a n y v a r i e t i e s of fruits, f i n a l l y c o n c e n t r a t i n g on apples. T h e v a r i e t i e s he g r e w w e r e C a r p e n t e r , Fi ve Crown, P ippin, W i nt er Pe rm a i n , F a n n y and E n g l i s h Rus set . T h e y a v e r a g e d 7s per cas e in S y d n e y in 1902 w h e n 9321 cases w e r e sent away. A c c e s s to the B ulli M o u n t a i n s e t t l e m e n t was g a i n e d by a f o res t r o a d w h i c h b r a n c h e d w es t f r o m the m a i n road at the top of B ul li Pass, the track, shut b y a locked gate, b e i n g there a lmo s t d i s u s e d today. In M a y 1878 K n i g h t e r e c t e d a s a w m i l l there and b u i l t a d a m to s u p p l y w a t e r for his s t e a m engine. S awn t i m b e r ha d b e e n u s e d as e a r l y as 1870 for the b u i l d i n g of a publ ic scho ol w h i c h ha d be en e s t a b l i s h e d the y e a r b e f o r e the c h i l d r e n of the few e a r l i e s t i n h a b i t a n t s . In 1878 the s c h o o l h a d an e n r o l m e n t of 46. The p e o p l e r e m a i n e d all t h r o u g h the h i s t o r y of the s e t t l e m e n t a u n i t e d c o m m u n i t y and t heir s p i r i t u a l a n d s o c ial life c e n t r e d a r o u n d the U n i o n C hurch. T h i s w a s b ui lt of saw n slabs and r o o f e d w i t h s h i n g l e s and was o p e n e d in M a y 1882 in the p r e s e n c e of 20 0 p e o p l e . It faced C a t a r a c t R o a d 1? m i l e s f ro m the m a i n roa d on a site g i v e n by J. L o v e d a y w h o b ui lt it on c o n t r a c t . The i s o l a t e d s e t t l e m e n t v a r i o u s l y k n o w n as B ull i M o u n t a i n and U p p e r B ulli w a s s e r v e d by a r o a d f a irl y s t r a i g h t but up and d own the m o u n t a i n spurs for four or five m i l e s to C a t a r a c t R i v e r w h e r e F e r n d a l e b o a r d i n g h o u s e w a s e s t a b l i s h e d as a tourist and honeymoon reso rt for Bu lli and Wollongong people. T his was s u p p l e m e n t e d later by Mrs W i l s o n ' s G l e n Isle b o a r d i n g house. At the time the c h u r c h op en e d , p o s t a l f a c i l i t i e s w e r e b e ing s o u g h t and a s u i t a b l e na me to l oca li se it as d i s t i n c t fr om all the names i n c o r p o r a t i n g Bulli". B e a c o n s f i e I d was s u g g e s t e d but it was s ai d to have b e e n t a k e n for a l o c a l i t y on the r a i l w a y nea r Sy dn e y . T h e n a m e S h e r b r o o k e w a s then

42 43

s e l e c t e d in h o n o u r of Lo rd S h e rb roo ke , w h o as R o b e r t L o w e ha d a c t i v e part in p u b l i c m a t t e r s in the e a r l y days of the col ony .

played

an

In the y e a r 1883, s h o r t l y af ter the s e t t l e m e n t was r e - n a m e d S h e r b r o o k e , the o r i g i n a l w o o d e n s c h o o l was r e p l a c e d by a sc ho o l w i t h m a s t e r ' s r e s i d e n c e a t t a c h e d , b uil t o f stone, the m a s o n r y of w h i c h was of the h i g h e s t o r d e r and w h i c h was an o u t s t a n d i n g e x a m p l e of e d u c a t i o n a l a r c h i t e c t u r e of the time. It w a s b ui lt b y W i l s o n and W a l k e r b e s ide the f o r m e r b u i l d i n g an d faced a road s o u t h of the C a t a r a c t Road li m i l e s f r o m the top of B u l l i Pass. It was o p e n e d on F r i d a y 21 S e p t e m b e r and cost £2000, b e i n g the m o s t c o s t l y in the d i s t r i c t a n d u n e q u a l l e d by any p l ace of e q u a l p o p u l a t i o n in the c olony. It c a u s e d c o n s i d e r a b l e pro tes t b y the p e o p l e of W o o n o n a w h e n they w e r e o f f e r e d a s c h o o l i n c o m p a r a b l e w i t h it. I n d u s t r i a l p r o g r e s s at S h e r b r o o k e c o n t i n u e d w i t h the o p e n i n g of a n e w s a w m i l l in 1884 b y H. and A. K n i ght at the he ad of C a t a r a c t R i v e r a m i l e w e s t of t h e ir e a r l i e r mi ll, w h i c h had b ee n s i t u a t e d at " K n i g h t ' s B r i d ge" ne ar the U n i o n C h u r c h . It stood amids t a for es t of e x c e l l e n t t i m b e r and w o u l d h a n d l e 6 0 0 0 feet per day in a d d i t i o n to the 2000 feet h a n d l e d b y the e a r l i e r m i l l w h i c h c o n t i n u e d in op er a t i o n . T o a s sis t t i m b e r h a u l a g e a t r a m w a y was b u i l t f r o m the m i l l to the h ill top . S h e r b r o o k e a l s o had a p i a r i s t s w o r k i n g the b e e s on the w i l d f l o w e r s for w h i c h the for est s b e c a m e famous. An u n u s u a l f e a t u r e of life w h i c h g r e w in the e i g h t i e s was the w i l d f l o w e r shows he ld in the spring, b r i n g i n g v i s i t o r s fr om far and n e a r to see the bl oo m s and y i e l d i n g funds for the c h u r c h work. In the m i d - e i g h t i e s a w i l d f l o w e r s h o w s t a g e d b y S h e r b r o o k e p e o p l e was t aken to B u l l i w h e r e funds w e r e r a i s e d b y it for the W o l l o n g o n g h o s p i t a l and the S h e r b r o o k e church. For the f o l l o w i n g 20 y e a r s and u nt il the p a s s i n g of the v i l l a g e in the e a r l y t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y an d the W il d Flo w e r s P r o t e c t i o n Act in 1927, w i l d - f l o w e r p i c k e r s and a d m i r e r s c o m b e d the S h e r b r o o k e for est s e v e r y spring. And w i t h the p a s s i n g y e a r s the o r c h a r d s y i e l d e d of t heir plenty. At the time S h e r b r o o k e w a s se tt l e d as B u ll i M o u n t a i n the p e o p l e a l o n g the c o a s t a l s tr ip w e r e a l s o o p e n i n g up wh at they c a l l e d N o r t h B u l l i as a small rural set t l e m e n t . T h e r e s i d e n t s by their u n i t e d e f f o r t s and w i t h o u t aid fr om the C o u n c i l for E d u c a t i o n b u i l t the N o r t h B u l l i s c h o o l a b o u t 1865 bu t a l m o s t i m m e d i a t e l y it b e c a m e too s mall for the n u m b e r of c h i l d r e n o f f e r i n g and the p e o p l e let a c o n t r a c t to J.R. R a w n s l e y o f W o l l o n g o n g to b u i l d a scho ol and r e s i d e n c e . T h e Bu lli N o r t h P u b l i c s c h o o l b o a r d a p p o i n t e d on 6 A p r il 1867 c o m p r i s e d J a m e s Ke nn e d y , J a m e s Hicks , C h a r l e s P o w e l l and D o n a l d Macphee. It was r e p o r t e d in the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " of 9 M a y 1871, "T he e n d of the s c h ool and the front of the m a s t e r ' s r e s i d e n c e faces the sea". The s c h o o l r o o m was 30 feet long and 16 feet w i d e an d was l i g h t e d b y four w i n d o w s , one on e a c h end and two on the s o u t h side. T h e s c h o o l was fo r m a l l y o p e n e d on S a t u r d a y 6 M a y 1871 b y J o h n H u f f e r , I n s p e c t o r of Sc hoo ls , w h o t r a v e l l e d b y boat f rom Sydney. The opening was followed by a pi cn ic on the p oi nt " jus t b e f o r e Mr J. Hi ck s ' premisees" and the e n t e r t a i n m e n t was s u p p l i e d by H ic ks B ro t h e r s .

T h e s c h o o l served the p o p u a t i o n of N o r t h B u l l i w h i c h g r e w q u i c k l y in the ^ - e i g h t i e s wi th the o p e n i n g of the N o rth I l l a w a r r a Coal C o m p a n y ' s mine. Xt w a s s u g g e s t e d in 1884 that a n e w name m i g h t be a p p l i e d to the a r e a and it a p p e a r s that the n ame " A u s t i n m e r " was first a p p l i e d in 1887 w h e n the n e w l y - c o m p l e t e d j e t t y b e g a n s h i p p i n g coal. P r o v i s i o n for socia l life was m a d e w i t h the o p e nin g of the C e n t e n n i a l Hall w i t h s e a t i n g for 250 p e o p l e b e t w e e n the m a i n road and the s o u t h coast r a i l w a y line in M a r c h 1888. A g r a n d c o n c e r t m a r k e d its o p e n i n g a n d the r e p o r t e r n o t e d that the l a n d o w n e r s had b u i l t c ot tag es n ear the m i n e for the 200 e m p l o y e e s and r e s e r v e d the land n e a r the m a i n road for a l l o t m e n t s . As in all m i n i n g s e t t l e m e n t s the f r i e n d l y socie ti es s o o n b e g a n to ap pe a r and the same m o n t h the Go od T e m p l a r s ' L od ge was formed. D u r i n g the time N o r t h B u ll i g r e w as a rural haml et, to e m e r g e as A u s t i n m e r the coal vi llage, a n o t h e r r u r al a r e a was g r o w i n g b e t w e e n t here and Bulli a r o u n d the home of F r e d e r i c k Rob bi ns. The tract of c o u n t r y up to that time ha d b e e n k n o w n as C h i p p e n d a l e and e v e n t u a l l y b e c a m e T h i r r o u l . A large tract of its coast had b e e n t ak en up in 1843 by S a m u e l M a c a u l e y w h o had a r r i v e d in S y dn ey in 1838 and spent five y e a r s at B e r k e l e y . He d i e d in 1899. Rob bins' home was b e t w e e n M a c a u l e y ' s land and the m o u n t a i n s i d e . The village first calle d N e w t o w n b y B u lli p e o p l e g r e w fr om the o p e n i n g s e v e n t i e s and to it, in k e e p i n g w i t h the s o u t h c o a s t p r a c t i c e of n a m i n g s e t t l e m e n t s as "ville", the nam e of R o b b i n s v i l l e g r a d u a l l y c a m e to be c o m m o n l y applied. In 1879 the peopl e m e t to o p p o s e the a p p l i c a t i o n for a p u b l i c h o u s e l icence w h i c h was s h o r t l y a f t e r w a r d s gra nt e d . E a r l y in 1880 a m e e t i n g was h eld to e n d e a v o u r to urge the M i n i s t e r for W o r k s to o r d e r the r e m o v a l of fences e n c r o a c h i n g on the road f r o m Bulli. R o b b i n s , as lea d i n g c i t i z e n and s t o r e k e e p e r of that area, c h a i r e d the m e e t i n g w h i c h c o n s i d e r e d the n a m i n g of the v i l l a g e . " S o u t h e n d " , " R o s e v i l l e " and " N e w t o w n " w e r e p r o p o s e d but d e f e a t e d by " R o b b i n s v i l l e " , w h i l s t " M u d m i r e " was f l i p p a n t l y s ugg e s t e d . G r o w t h of the v i l l a g e c o n t i n u e d , a large b r i c k w o r k s o p e r a t e d and home b u i l d i n g i n c r e a s e d as the e i g h t i e s w o r e on. R o b b i n s v i l l e was l o o ked u p o n as a v i l l a g e w i t h a future. F a r t h e r n or th w h e r e the m o u n t a i n s t o uc h the sea at C oa l C l i f f the a p t l y n a m e d i mpo rta nt v i l l a g e of C l i f t o n , w h i c h had 24 c o u n t e r p a r t s in E n g l a n d , d e v e l o p e d w i t h the o p e n i n g of the Coa l C l i f f m i n e in 1878 on the s o u t h e r n p o r t i o n of w h a t was o r i g i n a l l y Sir T h o m a s M i t c h e l l ' s S t a n w e l l P a r k Es ta te. His son, C am pbell M i t c h e l l , so ld it to J u dg e H a r g r a v e w h o in tu rn s old the s o u t h e r n p o r t i o n to Hon. A l e x a n d e r Stuart, M.P.. On the s m al l flat b a r e l y a h a l f m i l e w i d e the c o t t a g e s for the m i n e r s w e r e b u i l t and the m a i n s t ree t laid out in the form of a c r e s c e n t f ro m w h i c h o t h e r s t r e e t s r a d i a t e d w i t h the schoo l site in the c entre. The t e l e g r a p h line was b r o u g h t fro m B ull i and a w a t e r s u p p l y laid on b y the coal company. In June 1879 the post o f f i c e was o p e n e d w it h M is s De Flo n in charge. The school and r e s i d e n c e w e r e e r e c t e d in 1879. W.J. M c L a r e n was the teacher. A Sch oo l of A r t s was e s t a b l i s h e d in N o v e m b e r 1880 w h e n A. S t uar t g av e the use of a r o o m and £30. The c o r d i a l r e l a t i o n s b e t w e e n M r and Mr s Stuart and the m i n e e m p l o y e e s w e r e m a r k e d b y a b a n q u e t t e n d e r e d the m by the p e o ple of C l i f t o n s o o n a f t e r w a r d s . The p ost o f f i c e s a v i n g s b a n k and m o n e y o r d e r o f f i c e o p e n e d at C l i f t o n in 1881.

44 45 As w i t h all c o a s t a l j ett i e s , a s t o r m c a r r i e d a w a y a large p o r t i o n in 1879. It was r e p l a c e d b y a n e w one four feet h i g h e r an d a g a i n in J u n e 1881 a p o r t i o n of that one wa s c a r r i e d away. As wa s u sual w h e n j e t t i e s w e r e d a m a g e d , s h i p m e n t s of co al and m i n i n g c e a s e d le av i n g the p e o p l e w i t h o u t inc ome until r e p a i r s w e r e comple ted . In 1884 several s t o r e s and two hotels, the C l i f t o n Inn and the Imperial, had b e e n e s t a b l i s h e d in the v i l l a g e and a d d i t i o n s w e r e made to the p u b li c scho ol. A public hall built of g a l v a n i s e d i r o n on land g i v e n by the c o l l i e r y m a n a g e r w a s o p e n e d w i t h a c o n c e r t in O c t o b e r 1885, and in 1886 the first c ou rt of p e t t y s e s s i o n s was he ld at Cli fto n. The E m m a n u e l C h u r c h of E n g l a n d was b u il t of w e a t h e r b o a r d b y C a r r i c k in 1884 and a w e a t h e r b o a r d R o m a n C a t h o l i c C h u r c h was b u i l t in the s a m e year. Up to the time the s e t t l i n g o f C l i f t o n had f o l l o w e d the o p e n i n g of the mi ne, there had b e e n o n l y a n a r r o w bridl e t rack a r o u n d the c l i f f face lin k i n g B ull i w i t h C o a l C l i f f a nd S t a n w e l l Park, w h i c h had b e e n the h o l i d a y hom e of J u d g e H a r g r a v e for m a n y years, the actua l site of his h o m e b e i n g n e a r the c r e e k on the n o r t h of C o a l Cliff. H o w e v e r in 1878 the G o v e r n m e n t p l a c e d a sum of £ 1500 o n the e s t i m a t e s for the c o n s t r u c t i o n of a ro ad f r o m B u l l i to Co al C l i f f an d S t a n w e l l Park. It was to j o i n the road up the h i l l s i d e and c o n t i n u e on to B o t t l e F o r e s t and G e o r g e ' s River, w h i c h had b e e n s u r v e y e d by P a r k i n s o n in 1865 f r o m the T o m Ugl y ' s punt i n s t a l l e d the y e a r b e f o r e t No s o o n e r had the w o r k at C l i f t o n b e e n p r o p o s e d t han the f irs t of the g re at l a n d s l i p s h u r l e d 200 tons of e art h and s t o n e s a c r o s s the b r i d l e track. Men an d m a c h i n e s w e r e l a n d e d at the j e t t y for the ro ad w o r k in A u g u s t 1879 and it was fo re c a s t , " W h e n a good road shall h a v e b e e n m a d e ... it w i l l be one of the m o s t r o m a n t i c a n d i n t e r e s t i n g p i e c e s of h i g h w a y a l o n g the w h o l e s o u t h e r n co as t " . T h e r oad was c o m p l e t e d d u r i n g the s u c c e e d i n g y e a r s but falls of s t on es and rocks, t o g e t h e r w i t h la nd s l i p s , h ave c o n t i n u e d to this day. The roa d was not f enc e d until J u l y 1886 w h e n it was f o un d that there w e r e two r o u t e s in u s e f r o m the top of w h a t b e c a m e k n o w n as " t h e B al d H i ll" n o r t h of S t a n w e l l Park. T h e r e was one r o ut e v i a B u l g o - a p e a k j ust n o r t h of Bald Hill - and C a m p Creek, w h i c h b e c a m e H e l e n s b u r g h , to W e s t m a c o t t , which became Waterfall. T h e o t h e r f r o m the top of Ba ld H i l l w e n t v i a the Blue G u m F o r e s t w h i c h w a s w h e r e the s o u t h c o a s t r o a d j o i n e d the roa d to Bulli Pass just w e s t of C a m p Creek. At Coal C l i ff J u d g e H a r g r a v e was s u c c e e d e d a f t e r his d e a t h in 1885 b y his son, L a w r e n c e H a r g r a v e , d e s t i n e d to b e c o m e the a e r o n a u t i c a l p i o n e e r , w h o in 1887 b u il t his h o u s e at St an w e l l P a r k pro per , a s h o r t d i s t a n c e up the hill f r o m the site of the fi rst r a i l w a y station. The d e v e l o p m e n t of the n o r t h e r n p o r t i o n of the B u l l i d i s t r i c t to ok place d u r i n g the time the p e o p l e of W o l l o n g o n g w e r e p r e s s i n g for the c o n s t r u c t i o n of the I l l a w a r r a r a i l w a y li nki ng S y d n e y to the s o u t h c o a s t to p r o v i d e b e t t e r t r a n s p o r t s e r v i c e th an w o uld the c o a s t a l c o l l i e r s and t r a d e r s fr om the je tti es. As e a r l y as 1861 the " I l l a w a r r a E x p r e s s " s u g g e s t e d a t r a m w a y fr om B ull i to the M a c q u a r i e River, w h i l s t a r a i l w a y c o m m i t t e e was f o r m e d in 1866. J a m es M a n n i n g , H e n r y Park es M.P., a nd Rev. J.D. L a n g w e r e s t a u n c h advocates. T h e c o n s t r u c t i o n of a r a i l w a y c o n n e c t i n g S y d n e y and I l l a w a r r a was first s e r i o u s l y u r ged in a p aper read b y J a m e s M a n n i n g to the Royal S o c i e t y in A u g u s t 1873. It was q u i c k l y f o l l o w e d by an a d v e r t i s e m e n t

i n s e r t e d in the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " of 9 S e p t e m b e r the s a m e y e a r c a l l i n g a m e e t i n g at W o l l o n g o n g to p ress for its c o n s t r u c t i o n . M a n n i n g s u g g e s t e d a ro ute w i t h a s t e a d y g r a d i e n t up the m o u n t a i n s i d e from W o l l o n g o n g to r ea ch a hei g h t of 1010 feet at the summit at the j u n c t i o n of the A p p i n and B o t t l e F o r e s t Roads, and then a l o n g the t a b l e l a n d to G e o r g e ' s River. He later s u g g e s t e d an a l t e r n a t i v e r o u t e u n d e r the m o u n t a i n at Coal Cliff> a g a i n t h r o u g h the B u l g o R an ge n o r t h of S t a n w e l l P a r k a l o n g P ort H a c k i n g C r e e k to the w e s t e r n side of Bott le Fore st . T h a t p r o p o s a l was e v e n t u a l l y ado pted. J o h n B i g g a r i m m e d i a t e l y t o o k up the ta sk of u r g i n g the a u t h o r i t i e s to c o n s t r u c t the line. P u b l i c m e e t i n g s , le tt ers to the press and d e p u t a t i o n s w e r e us ed to b r i n g p u b l i c o p i n i o n to p r ess P a r l i a m e n t to s a n c t i o n the b u i l d i n g of the line. In 1874 S u r v e y o r s S t e p h e n s and C ar v e r su rv e y e d the r o u t e and set up c a m p at " L i t t l e B u l l i or Sta nwell Park". Bulli, as w e l l as W o l l o n g o n g , forme d a r a i l w a y c o n s t r u c t i o n c o m m i t t e e in 1874 and d e p u t a t i o n s b e c a m e r e g u l a r until their o b j e c t s had b e e n ac hi e v e d . The s u r v eys i n c l u d e d r o u t e s w h i c h m a y have c o n n e c t e d w i t h C a m p b e l l t o w n via the B r o k e r ' s N o s e . The ne ed for a r a i l w a y to c o n n e c t I lla w a r r a w i t h P o r t J a c k s o n to c a r r y coal for b u n k e r s ri ght to the s h i p ' s side w a s e a r l y r e c o g n i s e d and in M a r c h 1881 the G o v e r n m e n t p l a c e d ov er £1 m i l l i o n on the e s t i m a t e s for the c o n s t r u c t i o n of the line, w h i c h was a p p r o v e d by Act of P a r l i a m e n t on 6 A p r i l . The s i t i n g of the line wa s p l a c e d in hand but the G a r d e n P a l a c e fire in 1882 r e s u l t e d in the d e s t r u c t i o n of all the plans and the s u r v e y s had to be done again. The w o r k b e t w e e n B o ttl e Forest and S t a n w e l l P a r k too k c o n s i d e r a b l e time b e c a u s e the c o u n t r y was wild, rugg ed and m o s t d i f f i c u l t . For a time it was s u g g e s t e d that the r o u t e m i g h t b r a n c h off s o u t h of G e o r g e ' s R i v e r and t r a v e r s e Po rt H a c k i n g R i v e r v a l l e y to O t f o r d but that r o u t e was found impracticable. The I l l a w a r r a or third s e c t i o n of the s i n g l e - l i n e c o n s t r u c t i o n c o n t r a c t of 28 m i l e s from Coal C l i f f to M a c q u a r i e R i v e r at A l b i o n P a r k was let in J u l y 1883 and w o r k b e g a n at Bulli n e a r w h e r e the m i n e t r a m w a y w a s to be c r o s s e d by the railway. The first sod was turned in J a n u a r y 1884 b y G. V o l l b r e c h t who p r o v i d e d a g a l l o n of b e e r and h a m and t o n g u e s a n d w i c h e s to m a r k the occa sio n. C a n v a s tents d o t t e d the r ou te t h r o u g h the B u lli d i s t r i c t for three years and the p r o g r e s s of the w o r k w as w a t c h e d w i t h in ter est and f r e q u e n t l y r e c o r d e d in the n e w s p a p e r s . The m a i n c a m p was at R o b b i n s v i l l e and the g r e a t e s t w o r k on the s e c t i o n was the C oa l C l i f f s i n g l e - l i n e tunnel 46 c h ain s long w h i c h took three m i l l i o n b r i c k s to line it. Proudfoot, L o g a n and C o m p a n y had the c on tra ct . In 1884 te nde rs w e r e c a l l e d for the s e co nd s e c t i o n of 21 m i l e s fro m G e o r g e ' s R i v e r to C o a l C l i f f tunnel, and in J u l y o f that y e a r the first p a s s e n g e r t ra in ran from S y d n e y to G e o r g e ' s R i v er. The r a i l w a y was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d to H u r s t v i l l e in Oc to b e r . T h e s e c o n d s e c t i o n was said to tra ve rse c o u n t r y as r o u g h as any r a i l w a y in N e w S o u t h Wales. The B u l g o Range k now n as Ba ld Hill w a s to be p i e r c e d b y the longest s i ng le line tunnel in A u s t r a l i a w i t h the H a w k e s b u r y R i v e r t u n n e l in d o u b l e line the o n l y one longer. A s e t t l e m e n t at B u l g o R a n g e in the v a l l e y w h e r e Po rt Ha c k i n g Creek ri ses was immediately established for w o r k m e n and a

47

b r i c k w o r k s w a s e s t a b l i s h e d to make b r i c k s to line the tunnel f r o m the c l a y e x c a v a t e d f r o m the m o un tai n. The c o n t r a c t o r s w e r e Rowe and S m i t h and there w e r e to be s e v e n tunnels in s even m i les . T h e w o r k was to co st £ 4 8 , 0 0 0 per mile. T h e h o r s e and dray pla yed a b i g part in the work. At C l i f t o n the r a i l w a y w a s p l a n n e d to travel a l o n g the m a i n road n e c e s s i t a t i n g the c o n s t r u c t i o n o f a n e w road b e t w e e n it an d the sea. The h e a v y w o r k e n t a i l e d e n d e d at B u l l i fr om w h i c h the c o u n t r y o p e n e d s o u t h w a r d s and b e c a m e m o r e level. On the s e c o n d s e c t i o n the m a i n c a m p w a s e s t a b l i s h e d at the 26 m i l e peg w h e r e the v i l l a g e of C a w l e y was laid ou t i n c l u d i n g qu ar t e r s , s t or es and s c h o o l of 50 p u p i l s , o n l y to v a n i s h a g a i n w h e n the w o r k was c o m p l e t e d . The r a i l w a y was o p e n e d to Na tio nal P a r k in D e c e m b e r 1885 and to " t h e W a t e r f a l l " on 1 M a r c h the f o l l o w i n g year. C o a c h e s th en b e g a n r u n n i n g fr om W o l l o n g o n g to c o n n e c t w i t h the trains at W a t e r f a l l . B l o o m f i e l d of C l i f t o n ran a line of f o u r - h o r s e c o a c h e s each wa y d a i l y v i a C l i f t o n , S t a n w e l l Park, " O t f o r d Hil l", and Blue G u m to Wate rfa ll. The c o a c h e s left W o l l o n g o n g at 5 a.m. B r e a k f a s t w as t a k e n at C l i f t o n and the c o a c h r e a c h e d W a t e r f a l l to c a t c h the 10.15 a.m. t r a i n to Sydney. W a t e r f a l l w h i c h was said to h a v e b e e n a s o l i t a r y w i l d e r n e s s a few ye ars p r e v i o u s l y b e c a m e a f l o u r i s h i n g c o m m u n i t y . The H e a t h c o t e H o t e l was located there. It w as r e p o r t e d that t r a v e l l e r s c o u l d n ot r e a l i s e h o w q u i c k l y they r e a c h e d S y d n e y b y that route! D e s p i t e the p r e v a l e n c e of lands lip s on the n e w w o r k the third s e c t i o n of r a i l w a y b e t w e e n C l i f t o n and W o l l o n g o n g w a s o p e n e d on Q u e e n V i c t o r i a ' s J u b i l e e Day, 21 June 1887. The line was f o r m a l l y o p e n e d b y F. W o o d w a r d , M . P . , and five trai ns ran e a c h way. All were packed with people standing in the c a r r i a g e s of w h i c h too few w e r e a v a i l a b l e . O n l y four c a r r i a g e s had b e e n r e a d y u n t i l two m o r e were landed f rom the S.S. K u r r a r a at W o l l o n g o n g w h a rf. T he one e n g i n e d e l i v e r e d b y b oat wa s f o u n d in n eed of a d j u s t m e n t and the c o n t r a c t o r and the M o u n t K e m b l a C o a l C o m p a n y lent one each. S t a t i o n s w e r e b u i l t at Clifton, Bulli and W o l l o n g o n g and s oon a s t a t i o n was r e q u e s t e d for R o b b i n s v i l l e and a n o t h e r for N o r t h Bulli. C l i f t o n an d B u l l i h a d w e a t h e r b o a r d s t a t i o n b u i l din gs, that at B u l l i b e i n g o n the e a s t e r n side of the line w i t h the p o p u l a t i o n on the w est . F a r e s w e r e t h r e e p e n c e a m ile. i The c o n s t r u c t i o n of the seco nd s e c t i o n of the r a i l w a y was d e l a y e d b y e n g i n e e r i n g d i f f i c u l t i e s , h i g h r i d ges and d e e p g o r g e s . The r a i l w a y b r o u g h t with it the d e v e l o p m e n t of two v i l l a g e s - Camp Creek which became H e l e n s b u r g h an d B u l g o w h i c h b e c a m e O t f o r d . T h e l a t ter is a m o u n t a i n p e a k f r o m w h i c h a m a g n i f i c e n t v i e w of the s o u t h c o a s t o v e r l o o k i n g S t a n w e l l P a r k and b e y o n d is o b t a i n e d and it was in the v a l l e y b e h i n d it that the v i l l a g e o f O t f o r d grew. B u l g o a p p e a r s to hav e b e e n f i r s t m a r k e d on R o b e r t D i x o n ' s " M a p of the C o l o n y of N e w S o u t h W a l e s " in 1842 and the name c o n t i n u e d in use for the locality. T h e c o n s t r u c t i o n of the r a i l w a y b r o u g h t the a p p e a r a n c e of a v i l l a g e w h e n in the e a r l y da ys of 1885 four h o u s e s an d a p u b l i c h o u s e a p p e a r e d an d a post o f f i c e w as sought. R e s i d e n t s c l e a r e d a r o a d f rom Bald Hill. A public s c h o o l was g r a n t e d for B u lgo in Mar ch. T h e n a m e of the v i l l a g e w a s c h a n g e d to O t f o r d in May. It was p r o b a b l y n a m e d a f t e r the h i s t o r i c v i l l a g e of O t f o r d in W e s t Kent, England, 24 m i l e s b y r a i l s o u t h - e a s t of L o n d o n w h e r e

the p o p u l a t i o n of the o n e - s t r e e t h a m l e t was 857 in 1950. The English v i H a8e the Darent R iver v a l l e y was m u c h like the A u s t r a l i a n O t f o r d v a l l e y a n d was the scene in a n c i e n t times of a b a t t l e b e t w e e n K i n g E d m u n d and the D a n e s in 1016. It w a s r e p o r t e d that c o a c h i n g t ra f f i c had b e g u n to " O t f o r d f o r m e r l y B u l g o a dreary u n c o m f o r t a b l e p l ac e" w h e r e "f or the wa nt of s o m e t h i n g b e t t e r to do the p u b l i c h o u se is the u s u a l p l ace of r e sor t of O t f o r d i a n s w h e n the r e ' s no work ". The p lace i m m e d i a t e l y b e c a m e r e n o w n e d for d r u n k e n n e s s and disorder. O ld r e si den ts, of w h o m T.A, J a m e s was noted as the v e t e r a n pioneer, u n s u c c e s s f u l l y o b j e c t e d to c a l l i n g the d i s t r i c t Ot for d. An A n g l i c a n c a t e c h i s t and a R o m a n C a t h o l i c p r i es t b e g a n v i s i t i n g and s o u g h t to e rec t c h u r c h e s . It was reported, " The g e n t l e m e n w h o h a v e b e e n h e r e latel y h o l d i n g r e l i g i o u s se rv i c e s will, it is t hought, soo n re du c e thin gs into some o r d e r cirnongst us • The t r a d e s p e o p l e from C l i f t o n at first s o u g h t the t r ad e of O t f o r d and b u il t s t o res there. In 1887 it was r e p o r t e d that the v i l l a g e had W e l c h ' s G r e n a d i e r Ho te l , tog et h e r w i t h b u t c h e r s , ba ke r s , tailors, jewellers, s t o r e k e e p e r s , b i l l i a r d r o o m and s k i t t l e all ey. The c h i l d r e n at first a t t e n d e d school at C l i f t o n but in 188$ J a m e s M o o r e b u i l t a scho ol by ten de r for £310. A m e e t i n g at the h o t e l in 1886 f o r m e d the O t f o r d c r i c k e t club. The f o l l o w i n g ye ar an a t h l e t i c spo r t s m e e t i n g a t t e n d e d by 250 was h e l d on a r u n n i n g t r a c k formed for the oc ca s i o n , w h e n a £20 h a n d i c a p was run. All H a l l o w s C h u r c h of E n g l a n d was b uil t of b r i c k w i t h s e a t i n g for 200 but was d e m o l i s h e d a few y ears later w h i l s t a post o f f i c e and p o l i c e s t a t i o n w e r e als o e s t a b l i s h e d . Sawmills operated in the s u r r o u n d i n g bush. Th e c o m p l e t i o n of the m a j o r r a i l w a y c o n s t r u c t i o n w o r k s a w the re mov al of m a n y of the p e o p l e some g o i ng to B r o k e n H ill w h i c h was b e i n g d e v e l o p e d at the time. M e a n w h i l e at C a m p C r e e k the coal m i n e * w e r e b e i n g o p e n e d in 1884 in r e a d i n e s s for the o p e n i n g of the r a i l w a y w h i c h w o u l d p e r m i t the c oal b e i n g taken d i r e c t to Port Ja ck s o n . The f irst s e t t l e m e n t w a s l a r g e l y a tent tow n of r a i l w a y c o n s t r u c t i o n w o r k e r s a m o n g w h i c h the C l i f t o n c l e r g y p r e a c h e d on Su ndays. T h e b u i l d i n g of a c h u r c h was s u g g e s t e d in 1886 w h e n a p u b l i c school had a l s o b e e n p r om ise d. A road wa s cut for a bou t a m i l e w e s t w a r d from the s e t t l e m e n t to the B u l l i P ass to G e o r g e ' s R i v e r road. The " s p l e n d e d " s c hoo l of w e a t h e r b o a r d to a c c o m m o d a t e 150 c h i l d r e n was c o m p l e t e d in M a y 1887 w h e n it was r e p o r t e d that C a m p C r e e k " e n j o y s a m o r e d i g n i f i e d title in the old C a l e d o n i a n d e s i g n a t i o n of H e l e n s b u r g h " . The nam e h a d b e e n g i v e n by C h a r l e s H a r p e r in h o n o u r of a r e l a t i v e and was a d o p t e d b y the p o sta l a u t h o ri ti es. The town was laid out a b o v e the m i n e on a t a b l e l a n d in A u g u s t 1887, w i t h s t r e e t s one c h a i n w ide n a m e d a f t e r d i r e c t o r s and o f f i c i a l s of the coal c ompany, w i t h a r e s e r v e for p e r m a n e n t w a t e r a l o n g the w a t e r c o u r s e of C a m p Creek. A post o f f i c e had b e e n e s t a b l i s h e d in 1886 and the s c h ool had 100 p upi l s on the roll w i t h two t e ac her s. D u r i n g the r a i l w a y c o n s t r u c t i o n p e r i o d the s e t t l e m e n t was noted for " s h a n t y k e e p e r s 1 and sly g r o g s e l l e r s who w e r e f ined in C l i f t o n p o l ice c o u r t and S u n d a y s a f t e r pay d a y s w e r e n ote d for the i n t o x i c a t i o n w h i c h p r e v a i l e d . A h o t e l l i c en ce was g r a n t e d in 1887. By 1888, a l t h o u g h the v i l l a g e was s a i d to have b een of p r i m i t i v e

48 49

a r c h i t e c t u r e , the s c h oo l was d e s c r i b e d as the best b u i l d i n g , e n r o l m e n t up to 140. E d w i n B y r n e s was the first teacher.

with

an

T h e school had a t e a c h e r ' s co ttage. T h e r e w e r e several s to r e s , b u t c h e r s , b a k e r s and b u s i n e s s p lac e s and a post and m o n e y o r der o f f i c e w i t h T h o m a s H o r a n as first p o s t m a s t e r . He o p e n e d the post o f fic e in his s t o r e in 1886 at the c o r n e r of L u k i n and P a rk es St ree ts. The C e n t e n n i a l H o t e l of W. H a n l e y wa s s a i d to h a v e been a m i l e out of the t o w n s h i p w h i c h ha d b e e n s u b d i v i d e d for b u i l d i n g s ites on the land o w n e d b y Sir J o h n R o b e r t s o n . The w e a t h e r b o a r d h o t e l stood on the east of P a r k e s Street and e a s t of W a l k e r S t r eet to w h i c h the town was soon ext e n d e d . Th e g r o w t h of H e l e n s b u r g h c o n t i n u e d as the c o n s t r u c t i o n of the r a i l w a y p r o c e e d e d w i t h the s e v e n tunn els in s e v e n m i l e s and the i m m e n s e c u t t i n g s an d e m b a n k m e n t s on the s e c o n d se cti on . F a r t h e r s o u t h the Co al C l i f f tun ne l was p i e r c e d and a s w e e p i n g e m b a n k m e n t b u i l t th rou gh C l i f t o n , bu t it i m m e d i a t e l y b e g a n to s u b s i d e as a f o r e r u n n e r to the c o n t i n u i n g t r o u b l e c a u s e d on that s e c t i o n of the line. J o h n W h i t t o n , the e n g i n e e r - i n - c h i e f of the g o v e r n m e n t r a ilw ays , paid a v is it to the site in 1887 and d i r e c t e d that the r a i l w a y s h o u l d f o l l o w the c o n t o u r of the land sur fa ce s l i g h t l y w e s t w a r d i nst e a d of u s i n g the e m b a n k m e n t , to a v o i d the p o s s i b i l i t y of it s l i p p i n g d o w n the m o u n t a i n s i d e . T r a i n s b e g a n r u n n i n g fro m C l i f t o n t h r o u g h the tunnel to Coal C l i f f on 25 J u l y 1888 a s t a t i o n there b e i n g c a l l e d N o r t h Clift on. The f i rst t h r o u g h t r a i n a f t e r the c o m p l e t i o n of the se co n d s e c t i o n ran f r o m S y d n e y to W o l l o n g o n g on M o n d a y 17 S e p t e m b e r 1888 c a r r y i n g the M i n i s t e r for W o r k s and railway officials. The line was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d on W e d n e s d a y 3 O c t o b e r by the G o v e r n o r , Lord C a r r i n g t o n , in the p r e s e n c e of M e m b e r s of P a r l i a m e n t and d i s t i n g u i s h e d v i s i t o r s at W o l l o n g o n g s t a t i o n w h i c h was g a i l y d e c o r a t e d for the o cca s i o n . W o o n o n a and B e l l a m b i p e o p l e r e q u e s t e d the e r e c t i o n of s t a t i o n s as s o o n as the r a i l w a y was o p e n e d . T h e latte r s e c u r e d o n e at " S o u t h B u l l i " ( B e l l a m b i ) but that at W o o n o n a was not b u i l t for 20 y e a rs. T r a i n s took in w a t e r at O t f o r d in those days, w h e n e n g i n e s h a d o n l y s mall tanks and used m u c h s t e a m on s t e e p g r a d es, and O t f o r d b e c a m e a small r a i l w a y and s a w m il l c e n t r e at the m o u t h of w h a t was to b e c o m e the d r e a d e d O t f o r d tunnel. T h e v i l l a g e s at O t f o r d and H e l e n s b u r g h w e r e the n e w e s t in the o l d d i s t r i c t of B u l l i w h e n the r a i l w a y o p e n e d to s e r v e b o t h Old B ulli i t s e l f and the v i l l a g e s b e t w e e n the m o u n t a i n p r e c i p i c e s and the s e a c o a s t w h i c h h a d g r o w n w i t h the o p e n i n g of the mine s. W o o n o n a v i l l a g e , w h i c h ha d s h o w n e a r l y p r o m i s e of d e v e l o p i n g as the social and c o m m e r c i a l cent re, l a n g u i s h e d w i t h the c l o s i n g of the m i n e s t h ere and B u l l i g r e w to be the p i v o t a l c e n t r e of the d i s t r i c t , s e r v i n g the v i l l a g e s a l o n g the c o a s t to the n o r t h a n d on the m o u n t a i n top at S h e r b r o o k e . The n a r r o w c o a s t a l strip, w i t h the o p e n i n g of the r ai lway, s tood on the t h r e s h o l d of g r e a t c h a n g e s w h i c h its p i o n e e r s had not foreseen.

CHAPTER 5 S E A W A Y

TO

R A I L W A Y

1888-1906

The o p e n i n g of the I l l a w a r r a railway, l i n ki ng the c o a s t a l v i l l a g e s and t o w n s h i p s and c o n n e c t i n g all w i t h Sydney, o p e n e d a n e w e r a of life in the n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a d i s t r i c t , p r o v i d i n g s p e e d y t r a n s p o r t for g o o d s and p a s s e n g e r s and c h a n g i n g the m e t h o d s of c o n v e y a n c e of coa l w h i c h ha d b e e n c a r r i e d by sea s i nce the o p e n i n g of the e a r l i e s t c o a s t a l m i nes . At Helensburgh the e f f e c t of the r a i l w a y was i m m e d i a t e , p r o v i d i n g as it did for the c a r r i a g e of coal d i r e c t to the w h a r v e s at Sydney. The g e n e r a l e f f e c t on coal t r a n s p o r t a lo ng the co ast al s t r i p was m o r e gr ad u a l , as e s t a b l i s h e d j et t i e s gav e ac ce s s to c h e a p e r sea t r a n s p o r t a n d c o n t i n u e d to be used, a l t h o u g h the p a s s i n g y e a rs saw the o p e n i n g of " K e m b l a Bay" or " F i v e I sla n d s P o i nt" as Port K e m b l a in 1881 a f t e r w h i c h c oa l f r o m N o r t h I l l a w a r r a b e g a n to be rai l e d s o u t h w a r d s for s h i p m e n t there. The g e n e r a l e f f e c t on life was to chang e the i s o l a t i o n of the c o a s t a l p e o p l e and to p r o v i d e m o r e and s p e e d i e r t r a n s p o r t than that p r o v i d e d b y h o r s e and c o a c h or by v e s s e l s c a r r y i n g p a s s e n g e r s m a i n l y f rom W o l l o n g o n g h a r b o u r but o c c a s i o n a l l y and b y a r r a n g e m e n t fr om the j e t t i e s at B e l l a m b i , Bulli, N o r t h B u lli and Coal Cliff. The r a i l w a y a l t e r e d the sites of some of the o l d e r e s t a b l i s h e d v il lag es, n o t a b l y B u l l i itself, and b r o u g h t the g r o w t h of n e w ones. One of the e a r l y e f f e cts of the r a i l w a y was the e as e w i t h w h i c h p e o p l e c oul d r e a c h W o l l o n g o n g for s hop pin g. The r u n n i n g of S a t u r d a y n i g h t t r ain s b e g a n the m o v e m e n t w h i c h u l t i m a t e l y b r o u g h t the c o m m e r c i a l s u p e r i o r i t y of W o l l o n g o n g and the d e c l i n e in the trade of Ol d Bulli, w h i c h was a d v e r s e l y a f f e c t e d f ro m the o u t s e t by the p l a c i n g of the r a i l w a y s t a t i o n m o r e than ha lf a m i l e s o uth of the o r i g i n a l v i l l a g e . S h o r t l y a f t e r the r a i l w a y o p e n e d p l a t f o r m s we re e r e c t e d at C l i f t o n and at " S o u t h B ul li or B e l l a m b i . S i d in gs wer e b u i l t at B e l l a m b i and d e s p a t c h of coal to S y d n e y b y rail b e g a n as s oon as the r a i l w a y opened. D u p l i c a t i o n of the line from S y d n e y to H u r s t v i l l e w a s b e g u n in 1889; to O a t l e y in 1890, and e x c e p t for C o m o b r i dg e, to W a t e r f a l l w h e r e it e n d e d in 1891 but the singl e line to the s o u t h c o a s t c o n t i n u e d into the n e w ce ntu ry . B ull i s t a t i o n was a r a i l w a y c e n t r e w h e r e coa l t r a ins w ere m a d e up and d e s p a t c h e d to S y d n e y and was a p a s s i n g lo op for trains. L a n d s l i p s f r e q u e n t l y b l o c k e d the line. In 1889 t h o u s a n d s of tons b l o c k e d the line s o u t h of S t a n w e l l P a r k s t a t i o n an d c o a c h i n g f r o m C l i f t o n to W a t e r f a l l wa s re—c o m m e n c e d . To m a k e m o r e d i f f i c u l t y , a p a s s e n g e r train c o l l i d e d w i t h a p ilot e n g i n e in " the b i g tu nnel", d e r a i l i n g a c ar r i a g e . At C l i f t o n the r a i l w a y had no s o li d f o u n d a t i o n , l a n d s l i p s w e r e f req u e n t and the R a i l w a y D e p a r t m e n t d u g d e e p d r a i n s u n d e r the line to d i s c h a r g e in to the sea. G a n g s w e r e a l w a y s at w o r k to c l e a r l a n d s l i p s . In 1900 the line was m o v e d four feet n e a r e r the m o u n t a i n b e t w e e n C l i f t o n and S o u t h C l i f t o n and the c u t t i n g at the tunnel m o u t h w i d e n e d to s t o p slips. It has b e e n r e c o r d e d that the C l i f t o n tunne l n e e d e d m o r e a t t e n t i o n than a n y o t h e r and c o n t i n u e d to do so as the y e a r s passed.

50 51 S o o n a f t e r the r a i l w a y was ope n e d c o m p l a i n t s w e r e m a d e a bo ut the p a s s e n g e r trains. At f irs t long A m e r i c a n c o a c h e s w e r e used, then s h o r t e r c a r r i a g e s , u n p a i n t e d and di rt y , and f in a l l y old o r i g i n a l third c l a s s c a r r i a g e s ( a l t h o u g h c a l l e d second) w ith no w i n d o w s or s h e l t e r at s i d e s and no c u s h i o n e d seats. P e o p l e use d u m b r e l l a s and s u n s h a d e s and w e r e c o v e r e d w i t h s m o k e and soot, e s p e c i a l l y in the long tunnels. No ligh ts w e r e lit in the c a r r i a g e s w h i l s t g o i n g t h r o u g h the t u n ne ls and as the t r a f f i c i m p r o v e d and l o n g e r and h e a v i e r trains w ere p l a c e d into the s e r v i c e in the n i n e t i e s trai ns b e g a n to s t i c k in the tunnels. In O c t o b e r 1890 a t w e l v e - c a r p i cn ic t r a i n s t uck in O t f o r d tunnel. A l t h o u g h the w i n d o w s w e r e shut the c a r r i a g e s fill ed w i t h s m o k e and steam. W o m e n f a i n t e d an d c h i l d r e n s c r e a m e d u n t i l the t r a i n b a c k e d o u t to S t a n w e l l Pa rk and was taken t h r o u g h to O t f o r d b y h a l ve s. T h e t u n n e l s m i l i t a t e d a g a i n s t tour ist tr affic, the s l o w p a s s a g e t h r o u g h the O t f o r d tunnel w i t h its c h o k i n g fumes b e i n g f e a r e d b y t r a v e l l e r s and a n t i c i p a t e d w i t h alarm.

1893 T r e e s p l a n t e d by the d i s t i n g u i s h e d v i s i t o r s to m a r k the o c c a s i o n m a y till be s een b e s i d e the r e s i d e n c e near the r a i l w a y tun ne l b u t the school has long since b e e n d e m o l i s h e d . The centre of p o p u l a t i o n m o v e d to S o u t h Clifton. Th e p o r t i o n of C l i f t o n n o r t h of the tunnel w as k n o w n as N o r t h C l i f t o n in the n i n e t i e s and the n a r r o w s t rip of h i g h land a l o n g the sea b a n k to S t a n w e l l P a r k was c a l l e d C l i f t o n v i l l e . S o u t h C l i f t o n g r e w s t e a d i l y as a m i n i n g v i l l a g e and in 1890 r e s i d e n t s b ega n a m o v e to c h a n g e its n a m e b e c a u s e of the c o n f u s i o n c a u s e d b y hav i n g p l a c e s w i t h n o r t h and s o u t h names. The g r o w t h of p o p u l a t i o n b r o u g h t the d e d i c a t i o n of a c e m e t e r y site in 1890. It was k n o w n as C l i f t o n c e m e t e r y but was s o m e d i s t a n c e s o u t h of the v i l l a g e on a c o a s t a l h e a d l a n d b e t w e e n it and A u s t i n m e r . C o l e d a l e and W o m b a r r a had not then b e e n named.

Coal trains from H e l e n s b u r g h w ere a s s i s t e d b y a b a n k e n g i n e the fi ve m i l e s to W a t e r f a l l w h e r e s i d i n g s w e r e f r e q u e n t l y e n l a r g e d and b i g g e r t r a i n s m a d e up for D a r l i n g H a r b o u r . Dri v e r s and f i r e m e n w e r e s c a l d e d and o v e r c o m e by s m o k e in the t u n n e l s w h i l s t d r i v i n g h e a v y coal trains. In 1906 the R a i l w a y D e p a r t m e n t m o v e d to seek a n e w route to e l i m i n a t e the t unn e l s , w h i l s t the sa me y e a r e l e c t r i f i c a t i o n was u r g e d as tl>e sol u t i o n . T h e g r o w t h of p a s s e n g e r and c o a l t r a f f i c in the n e w c e n t u r y b r o u g h t the c o n s t r u c t i o n of l a r g e r s i d i n g s at W a t e r f a l l , w h i c h b e c a m e a r a i l w a y d e p o t at the h e i g h t of the c l i m b fr om the coast.

At that time b e t w e e n the o r i g i n a l C l i f t o n station, r e - n a m e d S o u t h Cl ift on , and the sea, the h o tel o p e n e d in J u l y 1887 w a s n a m e d S c a r b o r o u g h Hotel. The m o v e to c h ang e the name c o n t i n u e d and w h e n a p r o g r e s s a s s o c i a t i o n was formed at S o u t h C l i f t o n in 1903 it s u g g e s t e d the n a m e c h a n g e . T h e n ame S c a r b o r o u g h was p a i n t e d on the r a i l w a y s t a t i o n in O c t o b e r 1903 a f t e r w h i c h the use of the n ame S o u t h C l i f t o n was d i s c o n t i n u e d . The name Scarborough, m e a n i n g "Fort on the Rock" f r o m its E n g l i s h c o u n t e r p a r t 42 m i l e s n o r t h - e a s t of Y o r k by rail, was ado p t e d . Sa yw e l l ga ve the land for a P r e s b y t e r i a n C h u r c h there in 1903.

D e s p i t e u n f a v o u r a b l e c o n d i t i o n s for travel, m o r e and m o r e t o u r i s t s from S y d n e y b e g a n to v i s i t the sceni c a t t r a c t i o n s of the coast w h i c h w e r e k n o w n o n l y to v e r y few b e f o r e the days of the r a i l w a y . A platform was early s e c u r e d at R o b b i n s v i l l e at w h i c h v i s i t o r s a l i g h t e d to w a l k or take c o a c h to v i e w the s c e n e r y f r o m the top of B u lli M o u n t a i n . T h e view, w h i c h is w o r l d r e n o w n e d today, w a s e a r l y a p p r e c i a t e d b y t r a v e l l e r s w h o p a s s e d that w a y and b e c a m e f r o m the time the first road was o p e n e d to the m o u n t a i n top one of A u s t r a l i a ' s m o s t famous to ur ist resorts. As e a r l y as 1828 the " E m i g r a n t M e c h a n i c " d e s c r i b e d the scene as one of r e m a r k a b l e bea uty . O p p o r t u n i t y to view the p a n o r a m a was im proved in 1881 when Carl W e b e r , the r oad superintendent, e r e c t e d a p l a t f o r m at the j u n c t i o n of the A p p i n and G e o r g e ' s R i ver roads, o v e r h a n g i n g the p e r p e n d i c u l a r cliff.

F a r t h e r s ou th the g r o w i n g i m p o r t a n c e of R o b b i n s v i l l e a f t e r the o p e n i n g of the r a i l w a y was m a r k e d by the o p e n i n g of a post offi ce. R e s i d e n t s had p e t i t i o n e d for an o f f i c e as e a r l y as 1882 and a g a i n in 1885 but u n t i l the r a i l w a y was o p ene d the p e t i t i o n s did not succeed. The o f f i c e w a s o p e n e d on 1 M a y 1888 w i t h F. R o b b i n s as p o s t m a s t e r at a s a l a r y of £10 per y ear. The need for a school was m e t w h e n the D e p a r t m e n t of P u b l i c I n s t r u c t i o n in 1888 p u r c h a s e d one acre f r o m R o b b i n s on the n o r t h - e a s t c o r n e r of his land. The si te was e l e v a t e d and w e l l si tu a t e d , b e i ng in the c e n t r e of p o p u l a t i o n . A b r i c k b u i l d i n g 70 feet long and 24 feet wide, s i m i l a r to that at B a l g o w n i e , was e r e c t e d and o p e n e d on 24 M a y 1889 - Q u e e n V i c t o r i a ' s B i r t h d a y - w i t h a p i c nic a t t e n d e d by 250 c h i l d r e n an d an e qual n u m b e r of a d u l t s . H.T. H i c k s J.P. pres ide d. A r e s i d e n c e of si x ro oms was p r o v i d e d for the te acher.

At C l i f t o n in the n i n e t i e s p u b l i c i t y was u sed to d r a w t o u r i s t s and w a l k e r s to a s c e n d the b r i d l e track to C o w p e r ' s L o o k o u t , w h i c h was 150 feet h i g h e r t han W e b e r ' s L o o k o u t a b ov e Bulli, w i t h an e x p a n s i v e p a n o r a m a to the s o u t h as far as J e r v i s Bay, to R o b e r t s o n ' s V i e w a l i t tle f a r t h e r n o r t h a n d w i t h a s w e e p i n g v i e w n o r t h w a r d s as far as B o t a n y Bay.

M a c a u l e y P a r k land was so ld in 1888 and by 1890 the v i l l a g e w h i c h had o r i g i n a l l y g r o w n as N e w t o w n on the w e s t e r n side of the r a i l w a y line had b e g u n to g r o w on the e a s t e r n side. Th e v i l l a g e had a ch ur c h , s c h o o l , hall, post o f fi ce and hotel, all s i t u a t e d on the w e s t e r n side, in 1890.

A l t h o u g h a w e l l - e s t a b l i s h e d v i l l a g e C l i f t o n for m e d a P r o g r e s s A s s o c i a t i o n in 1888, w h i l s t in 1890 the p u b l i c ha ll c o m p a n y d e c l a r e d a d i v i d e n t of 15s on e a c h £5 share. A n e w p u b l i c s c h ool w a s b u i l t o n a f o r m e r c r i c k e t g r o u n d a q u a r t e r of a m i l e n o r t h of the o r i g i n a l s c h o o l e r e c t e d in 1879, the site of w h i c h was a l w a y s a d a m p q ua g m i r e . J o h n W o g o m a n was c o n t r a c t o r for the b u i l d i n g w h i c h c o m p r i s e d a b r i c k r e s i d e n c e and s c h o o l of two room s, 75 feet long and 24 feet wide, s i m i l a r to t hose at B a l g o w n i e and F a i r y M e a d o w . It w a s o p e n e d by Hon. F.B. Sut t o r , M i n i s t e r for P u b l i c I n s t r u c t i o n , o n 31 J u l y

In 1891 the D e p a r t m e n t of R a i l w a y s was a s k e d to c h a n g e the n a m e of the s t a t i o n to T h i rro ul . Th is w a s the a b o r i g i n a l n a m e for the c a b b a g e p a l m w h i c h was a lle g e d to h ave b e e n first seen by t r a v e l l e r s to I l l a w a r r a in the d i s t r i c t arou nd R o b b i n s v i l l e w h e r e it g r e w to p e r f e c t i o n . It was a lso p o i n t e d out that the D e p a r t m e n t h a d a l r e a d y p r e s e r v e d n a t i v e n a m e s w h e n n a m i n g I ll awa rra s t a t i o n s an d that the idea of p e r p e t u a t i n g e u p h o n i o u s aboriginal names se em e d worthy of adoption. Robbinsville was not c o n s i d e r e d a p a r t i c u l a r l y a p p r o p r i a t e name as it was not s u g g e s t i v e of a n y fea tu re of the locality, and the R a i l w a y D e p a r t m e n t d e s i r e d to a v o i d p e r s o n a l names. In O c t o b e r the post al d e p a r t m e n t was a d v i s e d of the

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p r o p o s e d c h a n g e a n d the name T hir r o u l was a d o p t e d f r o m 1 N o v e m b e r 1891, n o t w i t h s t a n d i n g o p p o s i t i o n by some r e s i d e n t s to the ch an g e . Immediately r e q u e s t s w e r e m a d e by J.G. H u t t o n for a c h a n g e b a c k to the f o r m e r nam e but the na me of T h i r r o u l was c o n s i d e r e d s u i t a b l e and d i s t i n c t i v e and was retai n e d . The post o f f i c e w a s t r a n s f e r r e d to the r a i l w a y s t a t i o n in 1892 w h e n m o n e y o r d e r f a c i l i t i e s w e r e i nt r o d u c e d and in the f o l l o w i n g y e a r a t i n y o ffi c e was b u il t at the l evel crossin g. In 1900 it was d e c i d e d to r e m o v e the post o f f i c e from the r a i l w a y and p rem i s e s on the m a i n s o u t h c o a s t road wer e r e n t e d by D.J. W e b b . In 1904 a b r an ch of the G o v e r n m e n t S a v i n g s Bank was o p e n e d at the B u l l i Pos t O f f i c e to se rve T h i r r o u l ! In 1907 t here we re 112 h o u s e h o l d e r s at T h i r r o u l and 200 letters a d a y w e r e r e c e i v e d f r o m Sydney. A lette r d e l i v e r y on h o r s e b a c k b e gan that year. The postal department c e a s e d to r ent p r e m i s e s from 1907 and the p o s t m a s t e r r e c e i v e d an e x t r a a l l o w a n c e to p r o v i d e them. As fhe n e w c e n t u r y o p e n e d p o s t a l b u s i n e s s b e g a n to i n c r e a s e at T h i r r o u l w h i c h had o r i g i n a l l y b e e n the p o p u l a r tourist c e n t r e for B u l l i Pas s and was d e v e l o p i n g into a s e a s i d e re so r t . The s u m me r sa w T h i r r o u l c r o w d e d w i t h h o l i d a y makers. The great s t o r m o f F e b r u a r y 1898 d r ov e the b r i g " Amy " a s h o r e at the n o r t h end of the b e a c h at M a c a u l e y ' s Point near ,the m o u t h of F l a n a g a n ' s Creek. The e n t i r e c r e w d r o w n e d b e f o r e the eyes of the o n l o o k e r s a nd the b e a c h as far as Bulli j e t t y w a s s t r e w n wit h w r ec kag e. T h i r r o u l r e s i d e n t s e r e c t e d to the m e m o r y of the c r e w a m a r b l e m e m o r i a l w h i c h w a s u n v e i l e d b y M r s G e o r g e Adams. It was r e m o v e d to the centr e of the b e a c h r e s e r v e in 1952. At S t a n w e l l P a r k d u r i n g the e i g h t i e s and n i n e t i e s lived L a w r e n c e H a r g r a v e in his c o t t a g e a b o v e the r a i lw ay station, b u i l t a f t e r the sale of his fa th e r ' s h o u s e n e a r the c r e e k w h ere Coal C l i f f v i l l a g e grew. H a r g r a v e , wh o was b o r n in 1850, b e c a m e a p i o n e e r r e s e a r c h w o r k e r w i t h e n g i n e s , m o n o p l a n e s and the b o x k ite, his o b s e r v a t i o n s p l a y i n g a v i t a l par t in the d e v e l o p m e n t of the a e r o p l a n e . He re ad his first paper on the s u b j e c t b e f o r e the Royal S o c i e t y in 1884 and s u c c e e d e d in a r r a n g i n g a set of k i t e s w h i c h lifte d hi m from the g r o u n d . He e x p e r i m e n t e d in m a n y a s p e c t s of a e r o n a u t i c s and in 1899 v i s i t e d E u r o p e w h e r e m u c h a t t e n t i o n w a s g i v e n to his fin d i n g s . He di ed on 5 J u l y 1915 and a m e m o r i a l to his w o r k wa s s u b s e q u e n t l y e r e c t e d on Bald Hill and u n v e i l e d b y the G o v e r n o r of N e w S o u t h W a le s, L o r d W a k e h u r s t , on S a t u r d a y 3 A u g u s t 1940. T h e vast n a t u r a l s e a s i d e a m p h i t h e a t r e w h e r e H a r g r a v e had l iv ed b e c a m e a f a v o u r e d s e a s i d e r e s o r t w i t h the p a s s i n g year s. T h e r a i l w a y p l a t f o r m was m o v e d in 1901 f r o m the e a s t e r n to the w e s t e r n s i d e of the line w h i c h had a p a s s i n g loop for t rains. A n a d d i t i o n a l p l a t f o r m was b u i l t l a ter o n the e a s t e r n side. At the time of the c h a n g e it w a s f e a r e d that p a s s e n g e r s m i g h t fall fro m the tr ai n s w h e n a l i g h t i n g as in those d a y s l i g h t i n g at night c o n s i s t e d o f o n l y a few oil lamps. It w a s n e c e s s a r y to r e s u m e land to p r o v i d e a roa d of a c c e s s to the b e a c h in 1900 as all the land had b e e n a grant. A u s t i n m e r b e g a n to p r o g r e s s a ft er the r a i l w a y o p e n i n g and c e l e b r a t e d the c o l o n y ' s c e n t e n a r y in 1888 by b u i l d i n g the C e n t e n n i a l H all . A progress c o m m i t t e e was e l e c t e d w h i c h was d e s i g n e d to p l a y a m a j o r part in d e v e l o p i n g

he v i l l a g e to the h i g h r a n k i n g s eas i d e r e s ort it e v e n t u a l l y b e c a m e . In 1891 t e n d e r s we re ca ll e d for n ew b r i c k p u b l i c s c h o o l b u i l d i n g s at " N o r t h B u l l i " a nd F a i r y Meadow. T h e sch ool bui l d i n g , w h i c h st an d s t o d a y at the f o r m e r v ill a g e , was c o m p l e t e d by J. W y n n and G. C r a d d o c k in 1892 a nd its n a m e c h a n g e d to A u s t i n m e r in 1895. In 1893 salt w or ks w e r e b u i l t on a q u a r t e r - a c r e site 100 y a r d s f r o m the sea for the I l l a w a r r a Salt Com p a n y . T h e y w ere b e h i n d the first b e a c h n o r t h of A u s t i n m e r ' s m a i n b e ach of today. Two years l ater w o r k s w e r e b u i l t "on the p o i n t near the jetty" for the S y d n e y Salt C o m p a n y . T h e w o r k s s t ood on two a c r e s of land. A.A. L y s a g h t was m a n a g e r . Salt was m a r k e t e d b y the A u s t r a l Sa lt C o m p a n y in 1896 and the salt i n d u s t r y c o n t i n u e d to the n e w c e n t u r y w h e n it decl ine d, as had the coal i n d u s t r y there in a for mer decade. By that time postal c o m m u n i c a t i o n had b e e n e s t a b l i s h e d at A u s t i n m e r . A post o f f i c e was first r e q u e s t e d in 1887 w h e n a co al m i n e and s a w m i l l we re o p e r a t i n g and it was o p e n e d at " N o r t h Bu ll i " on 1 M a y 1887 w h e n it was p r o p o s e d to c h a n g e the name to "Priena". The o f f i c e was n e a r the j e t t y on land o w n e d by the coal c o m p a n y and s h o r t l y a f t e r w a r d s a r e q u e s t that it be m o v e d to " A u s t i n m e r " one m i l e s ou th w h e r e f r e e h o l d land was s u b d i v i d e d , was granted,. The o f f i c e w h i c h was a t t a c h e d to A n t h o n y C r a m ' s s t o r e in the m a i n stre et w a s o p e n e d on 1 M a r c h 1888. In 1889 A u s t i n m e r was p r o s p e r o u s w i t h 300 m e n w o r k i n g at the m i n e but the f o l l o w i n g year s l a c k n e s s of b u s i n e s s r e d u c e d tr ade so that the s tore c l o s e d and the o f f i c e p a s s e d to Jones , the c o l l i e r y m a n a g e r and o w n e r of the premis es , and was then m o v e d to the r a i l w a y st ation. In 1892 it was a g a i n m o v e d to the m a i n stre et but in 1897 the p o s t m a s t e r at Bulli r e p o r t e d that A u s t i n m e r was fast b e c o m i n g d e s e r t e d and the post a v e r a g e d o n l y one lett er daily. H o w e v e r the n e w c e n t u r y saw the b e g i n n i n g of the g r o w t h of A u s t i n m e r as the p r e m i e r s u r f i n g re so r t of the s o uth coast. T h e b e a c h was c l e a r e d in 1899, the stone b e ing used in b a l l a s t i n g the road to W o l l o n g o n g . The " W o l l o n g o n g A r g u s " report ed , "The r oa d has b e e n r e n d e r e d a l m o s t i m p a s s a b l e and horse s h a v e b e e n m ai m e d , v e h i c l e s br oke n, h a r n e s s d e s t r o y e d and lives e n d a n g e r e d " . By 1906 the Bulli p o s t m a s t e r r e p o r t e d that A u s t i n m e r c o n s i s t e d of a b out 20 h o u s e s bu t that a large e s t a t e h a d b e e n s u b d i v i d e d an d so ld b y auction. It was the K e n n e d y E s t a t e sold by S l ade and B ro w n , 70 lots b e i n g sold b e t w e e n the r ail w a y and the beach. Lan d wa s q u i c k l y b u i l t u p o n and A u s t i n m e r was on the w a y to its futu re p r o s p e r i t y . In the o p e n i n g y e a r s of the n e w c e n t u r y soc ial i n s t i t u t i o n s b e g a n to app e a r . The St John' s w e a t h e r b o a r d C h u r c h of E n g l a n d was o p e n e d b y Rev. G D ' A r c y Irv i n e on 12 M a r c h 1904 on land in M o o r e S t r e e t b e t w e e n the s t a t i o n and the b e a c h g i v e n by J C J on es and J Kirt on. W o o n o n a , w h e r e the o r i g i n a l c o m m e r c i a l c e n t r e h a d b e e n e s t a b l i s h e d in the d i s t r i c t had, w i t h the f a i l u r e of T a y l o r and W a l k e r ' s and H a l e ' s mines, r e c e d e d and was for 25 y ea rs o v e r s h a d o w e d b y Bulli, w h i c h b e c a m e the cen t r e °f social and c o m m e r c i a l life in the d i s t r i c t . W i t h the r e - o p e n i n g of the m i n e s in 1889 W o o n o n a b e g a n to r e g a i n its p o s i t i o n and g r e w to equal Bulli, from w h i c h time the two b e c a m e twin c e n t r e s u s u a l l y linked in the na me as "Woonona-Bulli".

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T h e n e w W o o n o n a g r e w w i t h the sale of H a l e ' s e s t a t e i m m e d i a t e l y s o u t h of and c l o s e to the m i n e o r i g i n a l l y w o r k e d b y Hale. Hou s e s and s t o r e s s p r a n g up on e v e r y h a n d - B a l l ' s c o r di al f a c t o r y b e g a n o p e r a t i n g , D a v i d s o n ' s store o p e n e d in 1887 a n d the S c ho ol of Arts r e o p e n e d a f t e r ye ars of i n a c t i v i t y as p e o p l e flo c k e d to s e ttl e in Wo ono n a . H S F r y was p r e s i d e n t of the S cho o l of Ar ts and H W H a y m a n librarian. A r o o m w a s a d d e d in 1890, A G A l a n s o n , s c h o o l m a s t e r , c o n t r i b u t i n g in no small w a y to the s u c c e s s f u l o p e r a t i o n of the i n s t i t u t i o n . P r o p o s a l s in 1895 for f u r t h e r e x t e n s i o n s b r o u g h t the need for the o r i g i n a l r e c o r d s w h i c h c o u l d not be f o u nd to d i s p r o v e a m o r t g a g e claim. E v e n t u a l l y in 1901 the r ece i p t for r e p a y m e n t of the m o n e y w a s found in a W o l l o n g o n g b a n k and the hall r e n o v a t e d . It was r e o p e n e d w i t h a ba n q u e t b y the M i n i s t e r for Lands, Hon W P C r i c k MLA, on W e d n e s d a y 15 J a n u a r y 1902, the m e m b e r s h i p then b e i n g 76. The ha ll wa s lit w i t h a c e t y l e n e gas fo r the first time in 1904. E n t e r t a i n m e n t w a s p r o m o t e d by the r e b u i l d i n g of the s k a t i n g r i n k as J P r i t c h a r d ' s m u s i c hall in 1899, a c e t y l e n e gas b e i n g use d for f o o t l i g h t s . T h e hall w o u l d a c c o m m o d a t e 1000 p e o p l e and had c u t l e r y and c r o c k e r y . It was s i t u a t e d o n the m a i n road just s o u t h of R u s s e l l Str eet . The w e a t h e r b o a r d h a l l was d e s t r o y e d by fire on S u n d a y 16 D e c e m b e r 1906 w h e n a " b u c k e t b r i g a d e " s a v e d a d j o i n i n g premi ses . The n e w c e n t u r y s a w m a g i c lantern shows a d d e d to the s o c i a l a t t r a c t i o n s of the fo rm e r y ea rs and the f r i e n d l y s o c i e t i e s c o n t i n u e d th eir c h a r i t a b l e w o r k and p r o v i d e d s o c i a l func ti ons . In 1905 the f r i e n d l y s o c i e t i e s b u i l t a large b r i c k hal l o n the e a s t e r n side of the m a i n r o a d on the h i l l t o p w h e r e Bu lli and W o o n o n a meet. It was o p e n e d on F r i d a y 8 S e p t e m b e r an d lit w i t h a c e t y l e n e gas, the light of the e a r l y y ea rs of the t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y . The hall cost £ 700 and was used by three lodges, the A n c i e n t O r d e r of F o r es ter s, U n i t e d A n c i e t n O rd er of D r u i d s and the Free G a r d e n e r s . The hall s e r v e d u n t i l the i n c u r s i o n of m o v i n g p i c t u r e s . A f t e r a q u a r t e r - c e n t u r y of use the hall was sol d and b e c a m e a large m o t o r garage. The W o o n o n a W o r k m e n ' s C l u b and M u t u a l I m p r o v e m e n t S o c i e t y w h i c h o p e n e d in M a r c h 1902 l e ase d a c o t t a g e on the n o r t h - e a s t c o r n e r of R u s s e l l S t r e e t and the m a i n road. Its m e m b e r s h i p of 80 r a p i d l y grew. The scho ol a c c o m m o d a t i o n was i n c r e a s e d b y the e r e c t i o n of a b r i c k b u i l d i n g of two large r o o m s for i nfa n t s at a cost of £6 50 in 1890 and the a d d i t i o n of a large c l a s s r o o m in 1902. The old C h u r c h of E n g l a n d s c h o o l - r o o m o r i g i n a l l y us ed for the p u b l i c scho ol w a s p r e s s e d into s e r v i c e a g a i n and also continued in use for r e l i g i o u s services. The Baptists began o p e r a t i o n s w i t h a b a p t i s m a l s er v i c e on the B e l l a m b i b e a c h in O c t o b e r 1905 w h e n two ladies a n d two c l e r g y m e n w e r e i m m e r s e d in the p r e s e n c e of 1000 people. The S a l v a t i o n Array a r r i v e d in 1887 and us ed a b u i l d l i n g on the m a i n road ne ar the P r i m i t i v e M e t h o d i s t Church. The r e o r g a n i s a t i o n of p o s t a l f a c i l i t i e s w a s s u g g e s t e d in 1896 w h e n a m e e t i n g u r ged the e r e c t i o n of a post o f f i c e b u i l d i n g m i d w a y b e t w e e n B ull i and W o o n o n a , a b l o c k of land b ei ng r e s e r v e d b e s i d e the p o l i c e s t a t i o n for the purpose. H o w e v e r land was r e s u m e d in 1901 for a post o f f i c e at W o o n o n a o p p o s i t e C a m p b e l l S t r e e t and the p r o p o s a l for a c e n t r a l po st o f f i c e was a b a n don ed. The W o o n o n a post o f f i c e h ad b e e n c o n d u c t e d in the two s t o r e y e d

b r i c k b u i l d i n g on the s o u t h - e a s t corne r of C a m p b e l l S t r e e t and the m a i n road but the n e w o f f i c i a l post o f fic e was e r e c t e d of b r i c k a l m o s t o p p o s i t e it in 1903 and wa s o p e n e d by H o n G W Ful l e r MHR, on 30 S e p t e m b e r . W o o n o n a ' s i n d u s t r i a l g r o w t h in the n i n e t i e s b r o u g h t the d e v e l o p m e n t of c o - o p e r a t i o n w i t h the e s t a b l i s h m e n t of the W o o n o n a I n d u s t r i a l C o - o p e r a t i v e S o c i e t y L i m i t e d in 1896. It o p e n e d new p r e m i s e s in D e c e m b e r 1900 w i t h a publ ic tea m e e t i n g w h i l s t a large store for its e x p a n d i n g b u s i n e s s was e r e c t e d the f o l l o w i n g year. Shops of all k i n d s d e v e l o p e d and the v i l l a g e be ca me the c o m m e r c i a l c e n t r e of the district. In M a r c h 1906 a g r e a t fire d e s t r o y e d D a v i d s o n ' s P o l y t e c h n i c store and M o l l o y ' s t i m be r y a r d b e s i d e it. Across the s t r e e t B a l l ' s sh op was o n l y saved by b e i n g s a t u r a t e d w i t h water. Other b u i l d i n g s b e s i d e th ose b u r n i n g c a u g h t fire but w e r e saved b y w a t e r b eing s p l a s h e d o v e r t h e m b y w i l l i n g w o r k e r s u n ti l the fire b u r n e d itself out. B r i c k m a k i n g b e c a m e an i m p o r t a n t industry. It w a s P e n d e l b u r y in the e a r l y da ys of W o o n o n a and w o r k s o p e n e d m a i n road n e a r G r a y S t r e e t r e m a i n an i m p ort an t i n d u s t r y c o t ta h o l l o w b r ick s w e r e m a d e b y Leon J aubert. Typical they w e r e use d are B u l l i P a r i s h H all and Q u e e n V i c t o r i a The w o r k s c l o s e d in 1903.

founded by Thomas in 1901 b e s i d e the to this day. Terra b u i l d i n g s in w h i c h M a r k e t s at Sydney.

W o o n o n a formed the t h i r t e e n t h b o w l i n g club in N e w S o u t h W a l e s in 1894 as a result of r e p r e s e n t a t i o n s of W i l l i a m Rees. H a v i n g s e e n the g ame in En gland, Rees e s t a b l i s h e d it on the coast, r e m a i n i n g a m e m b e r of W o o n o n a Club for 55 y e ars u n t i l his d e a t h in 1949. J S K i r t o n was first p r e s i d e n t of the club w h i c h had a m e m b e r s h i p of 20 in 1898. Large e s t a t e s w e r e s u b d i v i d e d as the new c e n t u r y o p e n e d , t y p i c a l m o n g t hem b e i n g H ale ' s , C a m p b e l l ' s and Ziems'. W o o n o n a 1s g r o w t h at the turn of the c e n t u r y b r o u g h t a d e m a n d for the b u i l d i n g of a r a i l w a y s t a t i o n there in 1902 but that was not a c h i e v e d until some y e a r s later. In 1889 m i n i n g r e v i v a l b r o u g h t a n e w B e l l a m b i w h e r e the r a i l w a y from W o o n o n a c r o s s e d the c r e e k on a b r i d g e 500 feet long and w h e r e two jetties op era t e d at the o ne time to load the c o l l i e r s . W i l s o n ' s j e t t y stood ou ts i d e M i t c h e l l ' s at B e l l a m b i . Th e latter, n e w l y r e b u i l t at a cost of £10,000, was w a s h e d a w a y in a s t o r m in June 1889. It w a s r e b u i l t and stood until 1955. The toll of ships w r e c k e d on the re ef c o n t i n u e d w i t h S.S. L a l d i n g a , the f ast e s t c o l l i e r o n the coast, b e i n g w r e c k e d and b r e a k i n g up in 1896, the S a x o n i a in 1898, the R e s o l u t e in 1907 and in 1911 the M ar jor ie. The ga le of F e b r u a r y 1898 swept a w a y h a l f of the m o d e l j e t t y of the B el l a m b i Coa l C o m p a n y t o g e t h e r w i t h 20 tru cks . The j e t t y was not rebuilt. T o w a r d the end of 1889 the B e l l a m b i or C a w l e y e s t a t e n o r t h of Be ll a m b i Hotel and the S o u t h B u lli coal line and w e s t of the I l l a w a r r a r a i l w a y line ~ today k n o w n as R u s s e l l V a l e — was o f f e r e d for sale. Of 100 lots offer ed 37 w ere sold for a total of £805. W Wi lso n, the m i n e m a n a g e r , w h o b u i l t the hotel a l s o b u i l t the b r i c k B e l l a m b i M u s i c H a l l to a c c o m m o d a t e 600 Peo ple in 1890, w i t h r u n n i n g g r o u n d s with c i n d e r t r ack s b e s i d e it. A

56 57 b u l l o c k r o a s t w a s held to c e l e b r a t e the o p e n i n g in A p ril . L i f e was e n l i v e n e d by the B e l l a m b i Brass Band f o r med in 1889 and the m u s i c hall c o n n e c t i o n w i t h the B ell a m b i H ot el c o n t i n u e d u n t i l J u l y 1904 w h e n it wa s s e v e r e l y d a m a g e d d u r i n g a wind s t orm w h i c h u n r o o f e d it w h i l s t c r o w d e d w i t h dancers. At s u p p e r t im e the b r i c k end of the b u i l d i n g was b l o w n in and the h all was f i l l e d w i t h c e m e n t and dust. The r oo f wa s b l o w n to p ieces, r a f t e r s , b e a m s an d c o r r u g a t e d i r o n b e i n g w h i r l e d into the air. The d a n c e r s w e r e t e r r i f i e d and p an ic s t r i c k e n . The " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " r e p o r t e d , " M e n fo ug h t like t i g ers to g e t to the d o o r ... c h a ot ic c o n f u s i o n r e i g n e d su pr e m e " . '■ > 'f M e a n w h i l e R u s s e l l V a l e c o n t i n u e d as a f a r m i n g c o m m u n i t y . F P M a c C a b e ' s 250 a c r e d a i r y of " m i x e d d a i r y c a t tle " b e i n g note d. On it the W o r o n o r a C r e a m e r y C o m p a n y in 1894 erec te d its s e p a r a t i n g st at ion , s u p p l y i n g c r e a m to B e r r y b u t t e r f a c t o r y but it did not o p e r a t e m a n y years. In 1904, a f t e r M a c C a b e ' s d e a t h , the largest land sale in the d i s t r i c t w a s he ld on his e s t a t e w h e n 116 lots we re sold, f o l l o w e d s o o n a f t e r w a r d s by 96 m o re. Building soon followed. I D u r i n g the d e v e l o p m e n t of the c o a s t a l s t r i p S h e r b r o o k e p r o s p e r e d on the Bulli Mountain. Its s p r i n g wild f l o w e r shows, b e g u n in the e i g h t i e s , c o n t i n u e d to be s t a g e d at S h e r b r o o k e and B u l l i for b o t h the U n i o n C h u r c h and charitable purposes. A c e m e t e r y was d e d i c a t e d in S h e r b r o o k e in 1870 but was n e v e r u s e d e x c e p t to p r o v i d e t i m b e r for g o v e r n m e n t p urp ose s. K n i g h t Br ot h e r s ' m i l l c o n t i n u e d to cut t i m b e r f r o m the f o r e s t s and in 1894 F r a n k l i n K n i g h t c o n v e r t e d s e ven acres of b l a c k b e r r y - i n f e s t e d land to p o t a t o g r o w i n g w i t h W i l l i a m Lov eday, Thoma s K n i g h t and W i l l i a m D u m b r e l l w o r k i n g on s h a r e s and s e l l i n g the cr op in Bulli. Knight's corn crop drew visitors fro m B u l l i w h o w e n t to h u s k the crop. Ferndale orchard apples became r e n o w n e d an d all c r o p s b e c a m e prolific. S h e r b r o o k e ' s a n n u a l r a i n f a l l of 57 inches w a s the same as S u b l i m e Point, a l t h o u g h W o o n o n a o n the c oast onl y a few m i l e s a w a y a v e r a g e d o n l y 43 inches annually. B r o w n Bro t h e r s ' S h e r b r o o k e o r c h a r d w a s e n l a r g e d in the n i n e t i e s and S h e r b r o o k e ' s r e n o w n e d fruits - a p p l e s a n d p e a c h e s - in t he ir s e a s o n w e r e c a r r i e d a w a y e v e r y d a y on w a g g o n e t t e s , c a r t s and b u l l o c k d r a y s and on h o r s e and b u l l o c k w a g g o n s do wn B u ll i Pass to B u l l i r a i l w a y s t a t i o n for despatch.

two-foot

g aug e tr am l i n e was built the s e v e n m i l e s fr om the wall si te to q u a r r y at S h e r b r o o k e w h e r e the r ock was cut. D u r i n g the s t r u c t i o n p e ri od the p e o p l e of S h e r b r o o k e m o v e d a w a y to the c o a s t and c to the Richmo nd River on the n o r t h c o a s t w h i c h was b eing o p e n e d up b y 'In)lO^lCC At S h e r b r o o k e r a b b i t s and h are s f m o v e d in L3 • m af ter m a k i n g their first a p p e a r a n c e in the d i s t r i c t on the A p p i n R oa d in 1901, and c a u s e d a b o o m i n d u s t r y in t r a p p i n g until they w e r e b r o u g h t u n d e r cont rol in 1910. G a l l a g h e r ' s

All b u i l d i n g s were m o v e d a w a y from S h e r b r o o k e e x c e p t the stone p u b li c s c h o o l w h i c h was p la c e d into s e r vi ce for the r a n g e r ' s cot tage. It stan ds t o d ay on the lonely h i l l t o p amidst the f o r e s t g i a n t s and the b e a u t e o u s wildflowers in the spring, silent s e n t i n e l of the days of a b y go ne c ent u r y . It is a m o n u m e n t to the skill of the s t o n e m a s o n s w h o b u i l t it an d a m u s e u m - p i e c e of the e d u c a t i o n a l s y s t e m of the d a y w i t h its floors u n w o r n by c h i l d r e n ' s shoes and the r a i s e d tiers s ti ll on the floors as the y w e r e p l a c e d in those far -of f d ay s of e d u c a t i o n a l e x p e r i m e n t and p r ogr ess . S h e r b r o o k e is f o r b i d d e n land today w i t h its b r i d g e s long since b u r n t b y b u s h f i r e s and the forest in w h i c h d wel l the s p i r i t s of a g r a n d c o m m u n i t y , g r a d u a l l y c r e e p i n g o v e r the road w h i c h led to it an d over w h i c h its ric h pr o d u c e was c a r r i e d in the day s long past. T h e C a t a r a c t Dam, first of the four g r e a t S y d n e y w a t e r s u p p l y dams in the m o u n t a i n s b e h i n d B u lli was c o m p l e t e d in 1907. On the c o a s t the o p e n i n g of the r a i l w a y brought additional p o sta l fac i l i t i e s , a post o f f ice b i e n g o p e n e d on B u l l i r a i l w a y s t a t i o n in 1887. The post o f f i c e was a st ate i n s t r u m e n t a l i t y in those days b e fo re A u s t r a l i a n Federation. Th e post o ffi c e in the v i l l a g e c o n t i n u e d w i t h G S T u r n b u l l in cha rge , w h i l s t a small s e p a r a t e post o f f i c e b u i l d i n g was e r e c t e d at the r a i l w a y s t a t i o n as an o f f i c i a l post and t e l e g r a p h offi ce. The t e l e p h o n e e x c h a n g e was o p e n e d at Bulli r a i l w a y post o f f i c e in 1906. It was n o t u n ti l some y e a r s later that the two o f f i c e s c e a s e d o p e r a t i n g . The p l a c i n g of the r a i l w a y s t a t i o n s o u t h of the t o w n s h i p b r o u g h t an i m m e d i a t e mo ve of b u s i n e s s ho us e s and f r o m that tim e the o r i g i n a l B u ll i b e c a m e k n o w n as Old Bulli, its i m p o r t a n c e g r a d u a l l y w a n i n g as the y ea rs passed. T h e o p e n i n g e i g h t i e s had se en the a p p e a r a n c e of ho me b u i l d i n g w h e r e the s t a t i o n was e v e n t u a l l y b u i l t and the a r e a was k n o w n at first as B u l l i ' s N ewt o w n .

P r o s p e r i t y and g o o d w i l l saw the b u i l d i n g in 1896 of a n e w U n i o n C h u r c h a f t e r the e a r l i e r one had b e e n d a m a g e d b y b u s h f i r e s . A r o u n d it life a c t i v e l y c e n t r e d , p r o v i d i n g an o u t s t a n d i n g e x a m p l e of a c o m m u n i t y w i t h u n d i v i d e d l o y a l t i e s u n i t e d by a c o m m o n c h u r c h . At the s u m m i t of its p r o s p e r i t y and h a p p i n e s s in 1902 S h e r b r o o k e w a s i n c l u d e d in the c a t c h m e n t ar ea of the C a t a r a c t D a m b ui lt for the S y d n e y w a t e r supply. The whole v i l l a g e was r e s u m e d e a r l y in 1903 and c o n s t r u c t i o n of the d a m began.

The first b u s i n e s s hous es of c o n s i d e r a b l e s i z e in the v i l l a g e ne ar the r a i l w a y s t a t i o n was G e o r g e C r o f t ' s hotel at " H u n g r y Hill", said to h a v e b e e n the best and finest b u i l d i n g in B u l li d i s t r i c t w h e n com p l e t e d , a p l a c e it o c c u p i e d for hal f a c e n t u r y and r e m a i n s t od ay one of the d i s t r i c t ' s largest ho tel s. It was of t hree stoeys, c o s t £ 4 0 0 0 to b u ild and was leased to W i l l i a m D i c k s o n at £7 per w e e k for its f irst five years.

W o r k m e n t r a v e l l e d to " C a t a r a c t C ity" b y the B u l l i P as s and the s e t t l e m e n t was d o w n the r i v e r fro m S h e rb roo ke. It h a d a r o a d on e c h a i n w i d e w i t h b u s i n e s s off i c e s , m a r r i e d and b a c h e l o r q u a r t e r s , p os t o ff i c e , th ree stores, s e v e n b o a r d i n g ho use s, b utc h e r s , b i l l i a r d s , p r i v a t e a s s e m b l y hall and a p u b lic scho ol w i t h 100 pupils, t o g e t h e r w i t h A n g l i c a n and R o m a n C a t h o l i c churches.

At that time the B l ack D i a m o n d H o t e l clo sed . It w a s r e o p e n e d as a b o a r d i n g h o u s e and its a s s e m b l y hall b e c a m e the s k a t i n g r ink, b e g i n n i n g a p a s t i m e w h i c h r e t a i n e d g re at p o p u l a r i t y o v e r 20 ye ar s . T h e D e n m a r k H o t e l c e as ed liqu or s ales in 1894 and the S t a r of the S e a a n d the R a i l w a y H o tel , b uil t b e s i d e the m i n e line, a b ou t the same time. The c o m p a n y ' s flat not far fr om the h o t e l s had g r a d u a l l y b e e n c o v e r e d w i t h s l a c k u n t i l in 1890 the r ai ns w a s h e d five feet m o r e o ver it.

59

T h e m o v e to e s t a b l i s h a p u b l i c h o s p i t a l b e g a n in A p r i l 1 8 8 8 a f t e r b e i n g p r o p o s e d b y the " B u l l i Times". In 1890 Mrs G O r g a n of W o l l o n g o n g g a v e a 33 feet w i d e a c c e s s road an d h a l f an a c r e o f land, w h i l s t M c K i n n o n g a v e an a r e a b e s i d e it for a h o s p i t a l site. H S Fry be ca m e p r e s i d e n t of the hospital committe. A s i x - b e d w a r d for m e n and o n e of two b e d s for women , w i t h a c e n t r a l office, was pla nne d. Th e f o u n d a t i o n s t o n e was laid by F W o o d w a r d of W o l l o n g o n g , f o r m e r M e m b e r of P a r l i a m e n t for the d i s t r i c t , on 11 J u n e 1892. The G o v e r n m e n t g a v e £5 00 and the c o l l i e r y p r o p r i e t o r s s ubsidized donations made. In a c a v i t y b e n e a t h the s t o n e w e r e p l a c e d c o p i e s of the " S y d n e y M o r n i n g H e r a l d " , "Daily Telegraph", "Illawarra M e r c u r y " , " B u l l i T i m e s " and a d o c u m e n t . J o h n M y l e s of B u l l i b u i l t the h o s p i t a l for £740. The b u i l d i n g o f r e d b r i c k o n c o n c r e t e f o u n d a t i o n in m o d i f i e d G o t h i c a r c h i t e c t u r e was o p e n e d b y L a d y D a r l e y , a c c o m p a n i e d b y the G o v e r n o r , Si r F r e d e r i c k Darley, o n S a t u r d a y 20 M a y 1893 a f t e r a p r o c e s s i o n led by the B u l l i band, f oll ow ed b y the G o v e r n o r a n d h i s l ady in a " f o u r - i n - h a n d " . T h e s t e r l i n g w o r k of H most prominent townsman p r e s e n t e d b y the p e o p l e by his s o n H a r o l d and a c c o m p a n i e d the ad dre ss.

S F r y o v e r 40 y e a r s as " F a th er of B u l l i " a n d its and c i vic l e a d e r was r e c o g n i s e d in 1898 w h e n he was of the d i s t r i c t w i t h a t e s t i m o n i a l p r e s e r v e d t oday d a u g h t e r M i s s L R Fry. A p u r s e of s o v e r e i g n s

F r y w a s an a c t i v e c h u r c h m a n o f St A u g u s t i n e ' s C h u r c h o f E n g l a n d w h i c h c o n t i n u e d as a h o u s e of w o r s h i p . On W e d n e s d a y 9 A u g u s t 1899 the f o u n d a t i o n s t o n e o f the p a r i s h h al l of t e rra c o t t a h o l l o w b r i c k c o n s t r u c t i o n w i t h s h i n g l e r o o f w a s laid by the A r c h b i s h o p of Sydney. It was 53 feet long and 20 feet wide, b u i l t b y M o l l o y an d o p e n e d b y Rev H W T a y l o r MA, o n W e d n e s d a y 22 N o v e m b e r . B u l l i ' s n e w St J o s e p h ' s R o m a n C a t h o l i c C h u r c h was b u i l t in P a r k Ro ad in 19 00 on land b o u g h t two y e a r s b e f o r e . T h e f o u n d a t i o n stone w a s l a i d on N e w Y e a r ' s D a y b y C a r d i n a l Moran. The c h u r c h of G o t h i c d e s i g n to seat 4 0 0 was b u i l t o f H u r s t v i l l e b r i c k s and co st £1600. It w a s o p e n e d b y C a r d i n a l M o r a n on 26 A u g u s t the same year. A b r i c k c o n v e n t wa s b u i l t b e s i d e it in 1903 a f t e r w h i c h the o r i g i n a l c o n v e n t on the m a i n r o a d n e a r S l a c k y F l a t was sold. Th e n e w c o n v e n t c o s t i n g £725 wa s o p e n e d b y C a r d i n a l M o r a n on 17 J a n u a r y 1904. The " B u l l i T i m e s " a n d the W o l l o n g o n g n e w s p a p e r s c o n t i n u e d to r e c o r d the p r o g r e s s of the di st r i c t . On 6 J a n u a r y 1900 the " W o l l o n g o n g A r g u s " b e c a m e the " S o u t h Coast Times", p u b l i s h e d b y L i t t l e and Com pan y. H F Cotterell t o o k o v e r the "Bull i T i m e s " in the e a r l y n i n e t i e s . W h e n the state e l e c t o r a t e was n amed " W o r o n o r a " , i n c o r p o r a t i n g the c o u n t r y f r o m B u l l i to B o t a n y B a y in 1893 he c h a n g e d its n a m e to the " W o r o n o r a T i m e s " a l t h o u g h he c h a n g e d it b a c k to " B u lli T i m e s " o n 17 J u n e 1899. The e l e c t o r a t e c o n t i n u e d as W o r o n o r a , d e s p i t e p r o t e s t s that it s h o u l d h a v e b e e n N o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a , u n t i l 1904, J B N i c h o l s o n r e p r e s e n t i n g it in P a r l i a m e n t . Cotterell r e l i n q u i s h e d the p a p e r in D e c e m b e r 1899 w h e n E d w i n J a m e s W e l c h t o o k o v e r a n d p u b l i s h e d in M a i n Road, Bulli. It p a s s e d to W i l l i a m J a m e s B o u r k e in S e p t e m b e r 1901 and to E C B r o w n in 1905. S h o r t l y a f t e r w a r d s he r e - s o l d to W J B o u r k e w h o sold to the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " in 1919.

B u l l i in the years at the turn of the for sport. The B ulli R ifle C lub was members. The club soug ht the rifle a l l o w the use of the old r an ge w h e n he the land n e a r F l o y d ' s P oi nt ( Wa n i o r a c o n s i d e r e d too far away. T h e range r e o p e n e d and c o n t i n u e s in use. A c r i c k e t g r o u n d was pegged 1889 and at the c lo se of c ou rt hos ue. The b i c y c l e A t h l e t i c spo rts c o n t i n u e d A s s o c i a t i o n was forme d in first a n n u a l sports.

century provided many opportunities formed in M a y 1889 and s o o n had 40 range but G e o r g e A d a m s r e f u s e d to took over. F l o y d a sk ed too m u c h for Point) and a site at B e l l a m b i was c l o s e d in 19 00 but was e v e n t u a l l y

ou t in W o o n o n a on the f o r m e r 1890 tenn is c o u r t s w e r e put c l u b he ld its first a n n u a l and w h e n the P u b l i c Sc hoo ls ' 1889 the B u l l i b r i c k p a d d o c k

Ziems' p a d d o c k in d o w n o p p o s i t e the m e e t i n g in 1896. Amateur Athletic was u s e d for its

The turn of the c e n t u r y s a w the d e v e l o p m e n t of s w i m m i n g a l o n g the c o a s t and f a c i l i t i e s w e r e p r o v i d e d w i t h the c o n s t r u c t i o n of r o c k baths. The building of p u b l i c b ath s was first u r g e d in 1897 and the f i rst r o c k b a t h s to be b u i l t in the d i s t r i c t w e r e on Collins' R o cks at W o o n o n a in 1900. They were 60 feet by 30 feet and cost £90. Sand c o n t i n u e d to s e t t l e in t h e m an d has c a u s e d d i f f i c u l t y s ince they w e r e built . The B u l l i b a th s at F l o y d ' s Rocks w e r e b u i l t in 1903, c e r t a i n h o u r s b e i n g set a s i d e for l a die s and o t h e r s for g e n t l e m e n in the e a r l y years. The o p e n i n g t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y s a w the d i s t r i c t a t t r a c t i n g a g r o w i n g n u m b e r o f t o u r i s t s wh o tr av e l l e d b y t r a i n to a d m i r e the c o a s t a l s c e n e r y in those days b e f o r e sur f i n g had c o m m e n c e d . A m o n g th em was A u s t r a l i a ' s f a mo us poet H e n r y L a w s o n wh o spent a h o l i d a y at B u lli in 1899. To p r e s e r v e to ur i s t a t t r a c t i o n s the G o v e r n m e n t t oo k m e a s u r e s to r e s u m e lands at the top of Bulli Pass. A c t i o n in 1887 fai l e d b e c a u s e the l a n d o w n e r s a s k e d too h i g h a p r i ce and in 1894 m o v e s w e r e c o n t i n u e d u n t i l a q u a r t e r - a c r e wa s s e c u r e d and the l ookout wa s cleared. It was d e i d c a t e d as H o p e t o u n P a r k in 1901. The n i n e t i e s sa w the b e g i n n i n g of the b l a c k b e r r y h a r v e s t for w h i c h B u ll i b e c a m e reno wne d. B l a c k b e r r i e s a p p e a r to h a v e b e e n i n t r o d u c e d to B a t h u r s t in the f ort i e s and w e r e f irst s h o w n fro m T S M o r t ' s g a r d e n in S y d n e y in 1851. T h e y w e r e i n t r o d u c e d to S h e r b r o o k e as h e d g e p l a n t s by D u m b r e l l in the s e v e n t i e s and in the e i g h t i e s s p r e a d b y b i r d s a n d c r e e k s t h r i v e d in n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a w h e r e the " S y d n e y M a i l " of 12 F e b r u a r y 1887 s aid they w e r e r u i n i n g " a c r e a f t e r a c r e o f a g r i c u l t u r a l a n d p a s t o r a l lands " a n d that the p o p u l a r and p r o f i t a b l e E n g l i s h p a s t i m e of b l a c k b e r r y i n g is n o w i n d u l g e d in to the full, the n e i g h b o u r i n g m o u n t a i n s and v a l e s l i t e r a l l y t e e m i n g w i t h fruit of fine size and f l a vou r" . The v i n e s c o n t i n u e d to s p r e a d r a p i d l y t h r o u g h the d i s t r i c t and S h e r b r o o k e was first to f eature b l a c k b e r r y p i c k i n g an d h o m e m a d e b l a c k b e r r y ja m in 1891 when the spreading vines gave concern to the Department of A g r i c u l ture. In 1893 p i c k i n g a b s o r b e d the a t t e n t i o n of all r e s i d e n t s in the s eason. By 1894 the k e r o s e n e tin b e c a m e an d r e m a i n e d the p o p u l a r b l a c k b e r r y c o n t a i n e r and S h e r b r o o k e , T h i r r o u l and B ul li be ca m e p i c k i n g areas, e x t e n d i n g a l o n g the h i l l s i d e s f r o m W o o n o n a to C l i f t o n as the y e ar s passed. G S T u r n b u l l , s t o r e k e e p e r of B u l l i c o n t r a c t e d to s u p p l y S y d n e y jam f act o r i e s and bo ug h t from local p ick e r s . L a n d o w n e r s c h a r g e d 2s per h u n d r e d w e i g h t for the right to p i c k on t hei r land.

61 T u r n b u l l e n c o u r a g e d the trade; min e r s , t h ei r w i v e s and c h i l d r e n p i c k e d and a d d e d to their i n c o m e in those days w h e n m o n e y was s carce. Newcastle p r o v e d the be st m a r k e t for b l a c k b e r r y jam. F r o m a d e s p a t c h of four tons in 1894 the trade r o s e to 35 tons in 1898 and m o v e d up wa r d s to 100 tons d u r i n g s u c c e e d i n g y e ars . T h e 9.00 pm m i l k t r a i n f r o m B ulli in s u m m e r m o n t h s b e c a m e " p r a c t i c a l l y a b l a c k b e r r y train". In the new c e n t u r y the v i n e s b e c a m e a pest and the n eed for their e r a d i c a t i o n b e c a m e p r e s s i n g . A g r i c u l t u r a l p r o d u c t i o n in the B u l l i - W o o n o n a d i s t r i c t was b r o u g h t to publi c n o t i c e by the e s t a b l i s h m e n t of the P o u l t r y , Pig, C a n a r y and D o g S o c i e t y w h i c h held its first s h o w in the O d d f e l l o w s ' Hall n O c t o b e r 1897. The f o l l o w i n g y e a r G e o r g e A d a m s had the Bulli P o i n t c l e a r e d of trees and stum ps for a m o d e l f a r m and had the r a i l w a y b r i d g e b u i l t to c a r r y the r o a d le ad ing to the point f r o m S l a c k y Flat. The land at the p oint b e c a m e s i x - a c r e farms a f t e r Adams' d e a t h and a large h o u s i n g a r e a h a l f a c e n t u r y a f t e r that. H o m e b u i l d i n g b e g a n w i t h the o p e n i n g of a n e w m i n e in 1903 at " N o r t h Bul l i " w h i c h r e c e i v e d the nam e of C o led ale . A t o w n s h i p was laid out and a l l o t m e n t s so ld on 7 N o v e m b e r . A r e c e i v i n g post off i c e wa s e s t a b l i s h e d in 1904 w i t h Mrs G W a l k e r as p o s t m i s t r e s s w h i l s t a r a i l w a y s t a t i o n w a s p l a n n e d n e a r the c o k e w o r k s . T h e w e a t h e r b o a r d St O s w a l d ' s C h u r c h of E n g l a n d on the m a i n road and the M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h in Y o u n g S t r e e t w e r e b u i l t in 1908. F a r t h e r up the c o a s t the c o m p l e t i o n of the r a i l w a y b r o u g h t the c l o s i n g of the c a m p at O t f o r d and it was r e p o r t e d in 1889: " W i t h the d e p a r t u r e of the g e n i a l W e l c h ( P u b l i c a n ) from O t f o r d the p l a c e b r e a t h e s its last". The v i l l a g e b e c a m e a q u i e t r a i l w a y w a t e r i n g place. A n e w s c h o o l si te was s e l e c t e d in 1898 and a n e w b u i l d i n g c o s t i n g £200 ope n e d in A u g u s t . James Br oth er s' saw m i l l w h i c h had o p e r a t e d fr om 1875 c o n t i n u e d int o the n e w ce nt u r y . A d i r e c t ro ad link ing H e l e n s b u r g h and O t f o r d wa s b u i l t in 1905 but it was too s t e e p and was a b a n d o n e d a few y e ars a f t e r w a r d s . An a l t e r n a t i v e r o u t e e x i s t e d via Bald Hill. The g r o w t h of H e l e n s b u r g h c o n t i n u e d w i t h the p a s s i n g y e a r s an d in 1899 H e l e n s b u r g h r a i l w a y s t a t i o n was third on the I l l a w a r r a line for e a r n i n g s w i t h £8540, s u r p a s s e d o n l y by W o l l o n g o n g w i t h £ 1 8 000 an d D a p t o w i t h £16,000. The d e v e l o p m e n t of H e l e n s b u r g h b r o u g h t a l s o the d e v e l o p m e n t of L i l y v a l e w h i c h first a p p e a r e d in 1889, the n a m e s i g n i f y i n g the v a l l e y of the g i an t gyraea lilies. G e o r g e W e l c h b o u g h t the M e t o p o l i t a n H o t e l at L i l y v a l e in J u l y and in 1899 t r a n s f e r r e d f r o m O t f o r d h i m s e l f to the P a r a g o n w h e r e he r e m a i n e d u n til 1902. Th e h o te l s t o o d on the ea st of W a l k e r S t ree t n e a r the c r e e k and w as s o o n a f t e r w a r d s c a l l e d the P a r a g o n H o tel , b e i n g o p p o s i t e the P a r a g o n Hall. The r a i l w a y s t a t i o n was e x t e n d e d tunnel to t u nn el in 1891 w h e n a n e w g o o d s s i d i n g and shed w e r e built. A n e w r oa d to the s t a t i o n was b u i l t in 1898. The schoo l r e q u i r e d a m o r e s u b s t a n t i a l b u i l d i n g for the 150 c h i l d r e n . The n e w sch oo l of brick, of d e s i g n s i m i l a r to that at C o r r i m a l and B a l g o w n i e to a c c o m m o d a t e 250 p upils, was o p e n e d in J a n u a r y 1891 on the h i l l t o p a b o v e the r a i l w a y station. Medical services continued. Dr T r i n d a l l m o v e d to P a r r a m a t t a and Dr N a s h s u c c e e d e d him, he in tu rn m o v i n g to B l a y n e y in 1891. A Sc ho o l of A r t s c o m m i t t e e was f o r m e d in 1890, H o r a n b e i n g the o r g a n i s e r and books s e c u r e d fro m the p u b l i c l i b r a r y were m a d e a v a i l a b l e .

tes w e r e also held. A G o o d Templa rs ' L o d g e w as formed. A cemetery ■ te was set a side in 1891 but it had not s u f f i c i e n t d e p t h a n d a n o t h e r site S s e l e c t e d s o u t h - w e s t of the v i l l a g e w h e r e the c e m e t e r y s t a n d s t o d a y surrounded

by

bushland.

The town of H e l e n s b u r g h was m o r e p o p u l o u s than W a t e r f a l l and in 1890 tr ai n s for S y d n e y b e g a n at H e l e n s b u r g h in st e a d of W a t e r f a l l . The p r o g r e s s a s s o c a t i o n was a c t i v e w i t h A H o r a n as o r g a n i s e r . T h e C h u r c h of E n g l a n d was built in 1891 by R i c k e t t s at Li ly v a l e , the m o r e southerly portion s u b s e q u e n t l y part of H e l e n s b u r g h w h e r e he had a l r e a d y b u i l t the P a r a g o n Hall 100 feet by 32 feet w i t h a s t ag e for e n t e r t a i n m e n t s . Houses were b u i l t on the M e t r o p o l i t a n C o a l C o m p a n y ' s p r o p e r t y an d on f r e e h o l d lan d at L ily val e. The R o m a n C a t h o l i c C h u r c h of the H o l y C r oss w a s o p e n e d soo n afterwards. The b u i l d i n g s w e r e of w e a t h e r b o a r d . L i l y v a l e had a w i d e e x t e n t and e v e n t u a l l y the n a m e was o f f i c i a l l y c o n f i n e d to the b u s h c o u n t r y w h e r e s a w m i l l s o p e r a t e d for a ti me in the n i n e t i e s o v e r the r i d g e e a s t fr om the c oll ie ry. A l t h o u g h H e l e n s b u r g h p e o p l e still r e f e r to the s e t t l e m e n t on the s o u t h - e a s t of the t o w n s h i p as L i l y v a l e it is all w i t h i n the H e l e n s b u r g h p o s t a l area. The g o v e r n m e n t v i l l a g e of H e l e n s b u r g h W e s t was p r o c l a i m e d on 13 F e b r u a r y 1892, sites b e i n g r e s e r v e d for p u b l i c school, tow n hall, Mechanics' In s t i t u t e , hospit al, p ost off i c e , p o l i c e s t a t i o n and c o u r t h o u s e . A r e c r e a t i o n g r o u n d was g a z e t t e d o n 29 Mar ch. The g o v e r n m e n t land s a l e was h e l d on 6 A u g u s t . The v i l l a g e had b e e n s u r v e y e d in 1891 by S R D o b b i e , lic e n s e d surveyor. Some s t r e e t s w e r e n a med a f t e r p o l i t i c a l f i g u r e s of the time, one of them, R o b e r t s o n , d u p l i c a t i n g a n a m e a l r e a d y g i v e n to a str eet on the c o m p a n y ' s s u b d i v i s i o n , n a m e d a f t e r the c o m p a n y ' s m a n a g e r . Th e n e w S c ho ol of Ar ts b u i l d i n g of w e a t h e r b o a r d w a s f o r m a l l y o p e n e d on M o n d a y 10 S e p t e m b e r 1894 w i t h a din ner , c o n c e r t and ball. T h e S c h o o l of A r t s was first e s t a b l i s h e d in 1890 in p r e m i s e s lea se d f r o m the coa l c o m p a n y and ha d l ect ure s an d d e b a t i n g c l u b but d i s b a n d e d . The n e w b u l d i n g on a gr ant in the s u b d i v i s i o n at H e l e n s b u r g h W e s t in W a l k e r Str eet . The opening c e r e m o n y was p e r f o r m e d b y J B N i c h o l s o n MLA. The C o u r t of P e t t y S e s s i o n s and p o l i c e s t a t i o n w e r e e s t a b l i s h e d on 29 A p r i l 1895. A Roman Catholic Sch ool was o p e n e d b y M i s s S p e l l m a n in c o n n e c t i o n w i t h the c h u r c h in M a y 1896. Th e H e l e n s b u r g h W o r k m e n ' s S o c i a l and L i t e r a r y C l u b w a s e s t a b l i s h e d on 9 N o v e m b e r 1896 t h r o u g h the e f f o r t s of R o b i n s o n , D o w s o n and T h o m a s Hall. In 1898 it p u r c h a s e d land in M a i n S t r e e t and e r e c t e d b u i l d i n g s at a cost of £300. It had 500 m e m b e r s in 1901 w h e n a n e w w i n g w a s a d d e d at a cost of £200. The M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h w a s b u i l t of t i m b e r in P a r k e s S t r e e t in the e a r l y ninetie s. Th e P r e s b y t e r i a n s first h e l d c h u r c h s e r v i c e s in the S c h o o l of A r t s f r o m 1901. The timbe r c h u r c h o n a f r e e h o l d site in R o b e r t s o n S t r e e t g i v e n b y T S a y w e l l was o p e n e d in M a y 1904. T h e n e w post o f f i c e b u i l d i n g w a s o p e n e d by Hon Joh n See MLA, on 25 F e b r u a r y 1901, h a v i n g b e e n b u i l t at the c o r n e r of C o w p e r and P a r k e s S t r e e t s b y G R i c k e t t s for £615. T h e f o r m e r post o f f i c e was some d i s t a n c e a w a y f r o m the site e v e n t u a l l y s e l e c t e d a l t h o u g h Th om a s H o r a n ha d b e e n p o s t m a s t e r s i n c e the o f f i c e wa s e s t a b l i s h e d in 1886. The n e w c e n t u r y saw H e l e n s b u r g h w e l l e s t a b l i s h e d as a c o l l i e r y t o w n s h i p at the n o r t h e r n end on the B u l l i d i s t r i c t w i t h w h i c h it was f i r m l y b o u n d by

63

kindred activities. T h e c o m m o n i nt e r e s t s of the coal c e n t r e s o f n o r t h e r n Il l a w a r r a , w h e r e the r a i l w a y ha d in t w e n t y y e ar s of o p e r a t i o n p l a y e d an i n c r e a s i n g pa rt in the t r a n s p o r t of coal, m e r c h a n d i s e and p a s s e n g e r s , w e r e b o u n d m o r e c l o s e l y b y the r a i l w a y itself. C o a c h i n g a l o n g the r o u t e s s e r v e d b y the r a i l w a y h a d b e c o m e p u r e l y local in the e a r l y d ays o f the t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y b e f o r e the day s of the m o t o r car, and a l t h o u g h the c o a s t a l j e t t i e s at Bulli and B e l l a m b i c o n t i n u e d for som e y e a r s m o r e for c o a l l oad ing , the o t h e r s w e r e g r a d u a l l l y a b a n d o n e d in fa vo u r of the ra ilway. As e a r l y as 1889 a m o v e m e n t b e g a n to s e c u r e the i n c o r p o r a t i o n of B u l l i as a municipality. A u s t i n m e r and R o b b i n s v i l l e o b j e c t e d to i n c l u s i o n and at first soug ht i n c o r p o r a t i o n w i t h C l i f t o n , t h o u g h s ome o p p o s e d i n c o r p o r a t i o n at all, as the m a j o r i t y c o n s i s t e n t l y d i d at Bulli. In 1891 a m e e t i n g s o u ght i n c o r p o r a t i o n as B u l l i and not as B u i l i - W o o n o n a , w h i l s t in 1895 the s ubj e c t was a g a i n r a i s e d but v i r i l e o p p o n e n t s p a c k e d the m e e t i n g and compelled its a d j o u r n m e n t . In 1900 a m e e t i n g r e s o l v e d to s e e k the i n c o r p o r a t i o n of Bull i, W o o n o n a and T h i r r o u l and c i r c u l a t e d a p e t i t i o n but a m e e t i n g in 1 903 d e f e a t e d the p r o p o s a l . The G o v e r n m e n t s a v ed the s i t u a t i o n by i n t r o d u c i n g the Shires Bill in 1905 and the B u l l i S hire p r o c l a i m e d b y it on 15 M a y 1906 in cl u d e d the ar ea n o r t h o f N o r t h I l l a w a r r a M u n i c i p a l i t y at B e l l a m b i to N a t i o n a l Park, W a t e r f a l l and the C a t a r a c t River. ' i' The i n s t i t u t i o n of s h ire g o v e r n m e n t b r o u g h t f o r w a r d a n e w g r o u p of m e n a n x i o u s to s e r v e t h e i r c o m m u n i t y in an h o n o r a r y c a p a c i t y as ha d m a n y b e f o r e them. The n e w d a y s a w the p a s s i n g of a c i t i z e n to w h o m w a s due, m o r e than to a n y other, c r e d i t for his p e r s i s t e n t e f f o r t s to s e c u r e l oc al g o v e r n m e n t for the a re a a nd for his w o r k for m a n y i n s t i t u t i o n s i n c l u d i n g th e h o s p i t a l , S c h o o l of Ar ts, a n d for a c t i n g as m a g i s t r a t e for m a n y y e ar s. That citizen was H e n r y S t r a n g e Fry w h o w a s laid to rest a f t e r his d e a t h on 30 M a y 1907 at the age of 77 y e a r s in the c h u r c h y a r d of St A u g u s t i n e ' s w h i c h he had a l s o serv ed d u r i n g a long and a c t i v e life in w h i c h he p r o m o t e d the p r o g r e s s of the B u l li D i s t r i c t .

CHAPTER 6 C O A S T A L

R I B B O N

1906-1947 the t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y dawned, t own shi ps d o t t e d the n a r r o w c o a s t a l p l a i n AS the n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a w h e r e the m o u n t a i n s m e e t the s e a s h o r e , w h i c h hal f 0ric e n t u r y b e f o r e had b e e n k n o w n as Bulli f rom end to end. Each settlement had b e e n b r o u g h t into b e i n g by the o p e n i n g of a n e w tunne l into the m o u n t a i n s i d e for the p r o d u c t i o n of the m i d d l e t r e a s u r e of the e a r t h - the b l a c k d i a m o n d s w h i c h b r o u g h t a living to the w o r k e r s and p r o s p e r i t y to the d ist r i c t . To foster the d e v e l o p m e n t of the s t r i n g of v i l l a g e s d e s t i n e d in the f o l l o w i n g ha lf c e n t u r y to b e c o m e a r i b b o n of t ow ns m e e t i n g one a n o t h e r a l o n g the c o a s t a l hig h w a y , the Bu lli Shire C o u n c i l b e g a n to face the n e w n ee ds of the c h a n g i n g world. The e s t a b l i s h e m e n t of shire g o v e r n m e n t o c c u r r e d w h e n the m o t o r car had a p p e a r e d on the r o a d s as an i n n o v a t i o n in t r a n s p o r t , the e f f e c t s of w h i c h c oul d not be foreseen. R a i l w a y d u p l i c a t i o n t h r o u g h o u t the d i s t r i c t was b e c o m i n g n e c e s s a r y to h a n d l e the i n c r e a s i n g t r a f f i c and s ur f b a t h i n g was about to c om m e n c e , b r i n g i n g the co as t a l b e a c h e s into p r o m i n e n c e p r e v i o u s l y u n i m ag ine d. At that time the G o v e r n m e n t w as s til l a t t e m p t i n g to k e e p the r oad s m e t a l l e d s u f f i c i e n t l y to p r o v i d e a f ir m s u r f a c e for the h o r s e - d r a w n v e h i c l e s of the day and b i t u m e n s u r fac e ha d not a p p e a r e d on the c o u n t r y roads. The m o u n t a i n lands had at that time b e e n r e s e r v e d for w a t e r c a t c h m e n t and the c l i f f - t o p loo ko uts had yet to feel the impact of m o t o r tourist traffic. The c o u n c i l l o r s q u i c k l y s e t t l e d d o w n to w ork. To their e n e r g y and f oresight, c o m b i n e d w i t h the c o - o p e r a t i o n of the c i t i z e n s of the sh ire and g o v e r n m e n t i n s t r u m e n t a l i t i e s , can t o d a y be a t t r i b u t e d the p r o v i s i o n of the f aci l i t i e s and b e n e f i t s e n j o y e d in m o d e r n l i vi ng by r e s i d e n t s and to ur i s t s alike. T h e r e was a l w a y s p l e n t y of b u s i n e s s to d e m a n d the a t t e n t i o n of the c o u n c i l w h i c h first m e t on 13 June 1906 at the O d d f e l l o w s ' Hall, later to b e c o m e the M a s o n i c Te mp le, on the m a i n road n e a r O r g a n ' s Road; and later in the b u i l d i n g on the n or th e a s t e r n c o r n e r of P a r k Ro ad and M a i n Road in Bulli townshi p. T h e p r o v i s i o n a l c o u n c i l a p p o i n t e d by the G o v e r n m e n t to o r g a n i s e the first e l e c t i o n c o n s i s t e d of C o u n c i l l o r s H F C o t ter ell , D Ri tch ie, J S K i r t o n , D A W R o b e r t s o n and H C r a i g e r . T h e r e w e r e three ridings: "A" i n c l u d i n g the c o u n t r y f r o m W a t e r f a l l to S t o c k y a r d C r e e k n ear Co le d a l e ; "B" from S t o c k y a r d C r e e k to the s o u t h sid e of R u s s e l l S tr e e t at W o o n o n a and "C" from R uss e l l Stre et to the S o u t h B u l l i t r a m l i n e at Rus s e l l Vale. W J R i c h a r d s o n was a p p o i n t e d c o u n c i l c l e r k at £2 10s p e r week. He r e t a i n e d the p o s i t i o n u nti l his r e t i r e m e n t in 1922. T h e first c o u n c i l e l e c t e d co m p r i s e d P S piller, W P M i t c h e l l , G C Youl l, J S K i r t o n , J D a v i d s o n and J S Nicholson. T h e first m e e t i n g of the c o u n c i l was h e l d on S a t u r d a y 8 D e c e m b e r 1906. A f t e r e v e n v o t i n g Cr M i t c h e l l wa s e l e c t e d p r e s i d e n t by d r a w i n g lots. The first g e n e r a l ra te levied on 21 O c t o b e r 1907 w as 2d in the pound. J o h n R i c h a r d s was a p p o i n t e d v a l u e r and D L W i l s o n e ngi n e e r . J J H i les w a s a p p o i n t e d h e a l t h i n s p e c t o r and w as e l e c t e d a m e m b e r of the co u nci l in 1926. A E L e m a i r e was a p p o i n t e d e l e c t r i c a l e n g i n e e r in 1918.

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C o u n c i l p u r c h a s e d for £160 the former P r i m i t i v e M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h b u l d l i n g in M a i n Roa d n e a r Farr ell Roa d in 1908 and hel d its first m e e t i n g t h e r e in M a y 1909, a f t e r w h i c h its former p r e m i s e s b e c a m e the post of fic e, w h i c h was m o v e d f r o m the r a i l w a y s t a t i o n and a b s o r b e d the Old B ulli P os t O f f i c e in 1911. I n c ome o f c o u n c i l for its first y e a r was £ 1 00 0 w h i c h rose to £ 6 0 , 0 0 0 by 1928. In 1911 a d d i t i o n s were m a d e to the front o f the c o u n c i l b u i l d i n g a n d t heir c o m p l e t i o n was c e l e b r a t e d by a b a n q u e t at w h i c h S u t h e r l a n d S h i r e C o u n c i l l o r s w e r e gu es ts. B u l l i b u i l t its n e w c o u n c i l c h a m b e r s in 1928. The president, Cr A H F a c k e n d e r J P p l a c e d a tabl et on the b u i l d i n g at a c e r e m o n y on 3 N o v e m b e r . T h e c h a m b e r s w e r e b u i l t o p p o s i t e the end of F a r r e l l R o a d and w e r e o p e n e d b y A A L y s a g h t M L A on S a t u r d a y 1 June 1929. T h e t w o - s t o r e y b u i l d i n g of b r i c k w a s b u i l t b y W J W i l l i a m s at a cost of £5303. It had a f r o n t a g e to P r i n c e ' s H i g h w a y of 60 feet and a d e p t h of 50 feet. The c o u n t e r and o f f i c e s o c c u p i e d the g r o u n d floor and an e l a b o r a t e c o u n c i l c h a m b e r on the u p p e r floor f e a t u r e d a s e m i - c i r c u l a r t able for c o u n c i l l o r s . The last m e e t i n g in the f o r m e r b u i l d i l n g was he ld on 27 M a y 1929. T h e old c o u n c i l c h a m b e r s w e r e b o u g h t b y B ul li Miners' L o d g e for £ 3 6 0 in 1930 and b e c a m e a wor ke rs' club. F r o m its e s t a b l i s h m e n t the shire c o u n c i l gav e c o n s i d e r a b l e a t t e n t i o n to r o a d s a nd s t r e e t s in the shire w h i c h it f o und b a d l y d e s i g n e d . The main ro ad w o u n d up and o v e r h i lls as it does t o d a y and r e q u i r e d m u c h s t o n e and b l u e m e t a l to g i v e it a firm surface. In 1911 " B u l l i and W o o n o n a (were) n o t e d for s t r e e t s w i t h de ad ends". S t r e e t s o n l y led o f f the m a i n rao d at i r r e g u l a r i n t e r r v a l s and b e i n g g e n e r a l l y o n l y h a l f a c h a i n wide, n e e d e d w i d e n i n g w o r k w h i c h s till conti nue s. C o u n c i l m o v e d w i t h the times in 1910 w h e n it i n s t a l l e d a s t e a m road roller. It set out to s t r a i g h t e n s t r e e t s and to h a v e e n c r o a c h i n g b u i l d i n g s r e m o v e d fr om s t r e e t s and m a i n roads. The c o u n c i l t o o k o ver c are of pub lic pa rks and g a r d e n s and the t rust of the l o o ko ut at H o p e t o u n P a r k and Bulli P a r k r e s i g n e d in f a vou r of the c o u n c i l in its e a r l y days. The c r o s s i n g s o v e r the m i n e rai l w a y s b e c a m e a s o u r c e of d a n g e r w i t h i n c r e a s i n g t raf fi c. As e a r l y as 1893 W i l l i a m B e n n e t t ' s c o a c h was s t r u c k on the W o o n o n a c r o s s i n g b y the e n g i n e and m i n e trucks, p a s s e n g e r s b e i n g b a d l y s hak e n , the h o r s e s i n j u r e d and the c o a c h b a d l y d a m a g e d . In 1908 the d a i l y h o r s e c o a c h w h i c h p l i e d b e t w e e n B ul li and W o l l o n g o n g was s m a s h e d b y the c o a l train, the d r i v e r , T h o m s o n B e n n e t t b e i n g k i l l e d , the p a s s e n g e r s i n j u r e d and the v e h i c l e s m a sh ed to piec es. F o l l o w i n g the a c c i d e n t the c o m p a n y e r e c t e d g a t e s on the road, w o r k e d f r o m a t w o - s t o r e y b r i c k signal b o x w h i c h o p e r a t e s today. T h i r r o u l m a i n r o a d l ev el c r o s s i n g a l s o p r o v e d a d a n g e r and w i t h the o p e n i n g of the r a i l w a y y a r d s t here in 1914 it was r e p l a c e d b y an o v e r h e a d bridge. At C l i f t o n f a l l i n g s t o n e s had to be a n t i c i p a t e d w h e r e it was r e p o r t e d , "the ro ad at this point skir ts the edge of the sea w i t h the c l i f f s t o w e r i n g h u n d r e d s of feet in an a l mos t p e r p e n d i c u l a r w a l l on the w e s t e r n side of the road. The road i t s e l f is o n l y wi de e n o u g h to a d m i t of v e h i c l e s p a s s i n g comfortably". To p r o v i d e a d e q u a t e t r a n s p o r t f a c i l i t i e s the R a i l w a y D e p a r t m e n t d e v e l o p e d p l a n s at the time s h i r e s wer e formed for the i m p r o v e m e n t and d u p l i c a t i o n

f r o m S y d n e y of the r a i l w a y lines t h r o u g h the shire. D u p l i c a t i o n w as c a r r i e d to W a t e r f a l l w h e r e it e n d e d in 1891, e x c e p t for C o m o b r i d g e . Sin g l e track tunnels militated against extension. At Otford ventilating fans w e r e i n s t a l l e d at a cost of £7000 at the n o r t h e r n e n t r a n c e to the 77 c h a i n t u n n e l in 1908 w h e n 51 feet wa s a d d e d a n d a b o i l e r r o o m b u i l t to d r i v e a b l a s t of ai r through. The line b e t w e e n O t f o r d and W a t e r f a l l w i t h its g r a d e of one in 40, i n c l u d i n g s e v e n t u n n e l s , w a s r e - s u r v e y e d for a g r a d e of on e in 80 w i t h d u p l i c a t i o n in 1908. It wa s o v e r two m i l e s l o n g e r b u t e l i m i n a t e d f o u r t u n n e l s and the t h ree n e w o n e s w e r e d o u b l e width. The e s t i m a t e d cost of the w o r k was £231,000. An i m m e d i a t e m o v e to e l i m i n a t e O t f o r d tunnel wa s u r g e d but in 1909 a n e w r a i l w a y stati o n , r e s i d e n c e and si d i n g s w e r e b u i l t at S t a n w e l l P a r k at a c o s t of £5 000 to m e e t g r o w i n g t ourist traffic. In 1910 B u l l i S h i r e C o u n c i l s u p p o r t e d the p r o p o s a l of the R a i l w a y D e p a r t m e n t to d u p l i c a t e the line f r o m C l i f t o n to W o l l o n g o n g in v i e w of i n c r e a s i n g t r a d e to Port K e m b l a h a r b o u r . D e v i a t i o n and d u p l i c a t i o n from W a t e r f a l l to L i l y v a l e b e g a n in 1912 and, as w i t h the f i r s t c o n s t r u c t i o n of the line, a r a i l w a y c a m p w a s b u i l t at C a w l e y w i t h m a r r i e d and s i n g l e q u a r t e r s and s h ops of all kinds. Twelve hundred m e n w e r e e m p l o y e d , u s i n g h o r s e s a n d tip d r a y s for the w o rk. The deviation was put i n t o use o n 30 M a y 1915, a f t e r w h i c h the o l d t u n n e l s w e r e u s e d for m u s h r o o m growing. At C o l e d a l e a n e w isla n d p l a t f o r m was b u i l t in 1912 200 y a r d s s o u t h of the original platform which it repl a c e d . Duplication southwards from S c a r b o r o u g h b e g a n in 1915. On 15 A u g u s t that y e a r C l i f t o n an d S c a r b o r o u g h p l a t f o r m s w e r e cut out and a n e w s t a t i o n b e t w e e n the two w a s o p e n e d h a v i n g a d o u b l e p l a t f o r m w i t h b r i c k b u i l d i n g s and o v e r h e a d foot and v e h i c u l a r bridges. It wa s c a l l e d C l i f t o n but r e - n a m e d S c a r b o r o u g h in J a n u a r y 1916. T h e site of the f o r m e r S o u t h C l i f t o n or S c a r b o r o u g h s t a t i o n was u s e d for s i d i n g s w h i c h r e m a i n in use. T h e d o u b l e line wa s o p e n e d as far as T h i r r o u l in N o v e m b e r 1915, the n e w p l a t f o r m there b e i n g o p e n e d on the w e s t e r n side a n d the level c r o s s i n g b e i n g r e p l a c e d b y an o v e r h e a d b r i d g e in 1916. W h e n a n e w s t a t i o n was o p e n e d on 7 D e c e m b e r 1916 it w a s r e p o r t e d : "The new p l a t f o r m at B r o w n ' s B r i d g e has b e e n n a m e d W o m b a r r a " and thus a s t a t i o n a m i l e s o u t h of S c a r b o r o u g h came into being. W i t h the d u p l i c a t i o n f r o m T h i r r o u l to W o l l o n g o n g i n s i s t e n t d e m a n d s b r o u g h t the o p e n i n g of a r a i l w a y s t a t i o n at W o o n o n a , w o r k b e g i n n i n g to c o m p l e t e the p a r t l y d u p l i c a t e d Bui 1 i - W o l l o n g o n g s e c t i o n in 1921. At W o o n o n a a p l a t f o r m s e r v e d from S e p t e m b e r 1919, the W o o n o n a s t a t i o n b e i n g o p e n e d o n 9 J a n u a r y 1922. M e a n w h i l e w o r k on the d e v i a t i o n an d d u p l i c a t i o n f r o m O t f o r d to C o a l C l i f f to e l i m i a n t e the O t f o r d t u n n e l b e g a n in 1916 a n d the f irst S y d n e y - b o u n d t r a i n used the n e w line in 1920. T h e l e n g t h of j o u r n e y w as three m i l e s g r e a t e r bu t the g r a d e e a s i e r a n d the times t a k e n b y the t r a i n s the same, the r a i l w a y s k i r t i n g the r i m of the vast a m p h i t h e a t r e of S t a n w e l l P a r k to r e d u c e the g r a d e f r o m 1 in 40 to 1 in 80. O n it is S t a n w e l l P a r k v i a d u c t 127 feet h i g h c o n t a i n i n g o v e r five m i l l i o n b r i c k s . T he n e w s t a t i o n at S t a n w e l l P a r k is 289 feet a b o v e s e a level a n d 191 f e e t a b o v e the f o r m e r station. Th e n e w B a l d Hill t u n n e l is o n l y 20 c h a i n s long and t r a v e l l e r s in s o u t h - b o u n d tra i n s e m e r g i n g f r o m it see o ne o f A u s t r a l i a ' s m o s t r e n o w n e d views. Th e s o u t h e r n end of the old O t f o r d t u n n e l wa s b l o w n in d u r i n g d e m o l i t i o n p r a c t i c e in the S e c o n d W o r l d W a r in A p r i l 1942.

67

B e t w e e n T h i r r o u l a n d W o l l o n g o n g a d d i t i o n a l r o a d s e r v i c e s w e r e n e e d e d to s u p p l e m e n t the r a i l w a y and a s u r v e y for a s t e a m t r a m w a y a l o n g the m a i n r o a d w i t h b r a n c h e s to B a l g o w n i e and C o r r i m a l s tat i o n , first p r e s s e d b y the N o r t h I l l a w a r r a M u n i c i p a l C o u n c i l in 1901 was m a d e in 1912 by S u r v e y o r M c G o w a n of the P u b l i c W o r k s D e p a r t m e n t . Mud inches d e e p m a d e the m a i n r o a d a q u a g m i r e in rain. The t r a m w a y sc he m e was a b a n d o n e d and in 1913 the m o t o r c a r b e g a n its fi rst s e r v i c e c a r r y i n g 12 p a s s e n g e r s from T h i r r o u l to W o l l o n g o n g and Port K embla. T h e j e t t i e s at B u l l i and B e l l a m b i c o n t i n u e d to p r o v i d e for co al t r a n s p o r t u n t i l the d a y s o f t he S e c o n d W o r l d W a r in the 1940s. The c o l l i e r s t e a m s h i p G o v e r n o r B l a c k a l l p l i e d r e gul arl y. C l i f t o n wa s e l i m i n a t e d e a r l i e r a few y ear s a f t e r the o p e n i n g of the shaft n ear C oal C l i f f s t a t i o n b u t B u l l i and B e l l a m b i j e t t i e s r e m a i n e d u n ti l the o p e n i n g fiftie s. Bulli jetty was re b u i l t a f ter c o l l a p s e in 1907 w hen 15 w a g g o n s fell i nto the sea, o n l y to c o l l a p s e a g a i n in a s e v e r e s t o r m in 1912 a f t e r w h i c h it Lo ok 16 m o n t h s to rebuilt. It wen t to r u i n a f t e r 1943 w h e n it was d a m a g e d b y h e a v y seas and the sea en d was w a s h e d a way, the large c e n t r e part c o l l a p s i n g in 1949. Th e B e l l a m b i jetty, d i s u s e d about the s ame time, r e m a i n e d u n ti l the g r e a t e r p o r t i o n of it c o l l a p s e d in A u g u s t 1955. On the r eef n e a r b y S.S. M u r m o r a h wa s w r e c k e d in 1949, r e m a i n i n g for some y e a r s until s m a s h e d up b y the seas.

M i n i s t e r for L ocal G o v e r n m e n t , H o n T D M u t c h MLA. T h e s u g g e s t i o n for so n a m i n g the h i g h w a y was m a d e b y the N a t i o n a l Roads A s s o c i a t i o n to the B ull i Shire Council. The h i g h w a y fr om the sh ire b o u n d a r y a l o n g the t a b l e l a n d to B ull i L o o k o u t w a s i m p r o v e d to take m o t o r traffic s oo n a f t e r the s h i re was formed, b y the s h i r e c o u n c i l us ing g o v e r n m e n t s u b s i d y and in 1910 M a d d e n ' s P l a i n s in wet w e a t h e r p r e s e n t e d the o n l y h a z a r d to m o t o r i s t s . Th e y e a r 1922 saw f u r t h e r i m p r o v e m e n t by Bulli Shire C o u n c i l but the m a c a d a m i s e d r oa d f ro m S y d n e y e n d e d at Su th e r l a n d , a ft er w h i c h it was a red g r a v e l road n o t e d for its fine re d dust. At the time a m o t o r i s t r e p o r t e d : "T he n e e d l e c r eep s up to f o r t y and ... w i t h the throb of p o wer we s p ee d on ... to Bulli Pass". The B u l l i - W o l l o n g o n g road was blue m e t a l at the time. C h a n g i n g c o n d i t i o n s b r o u g h t about by the i n t r o d u c t i o n of m o t o r t r a n s p o r t on a l a rg e and g r o w i n g sc ale saw the f o r m a t i o n of the M a i n Roads B oa rd in 1925 to w o r k in c o - o p e r a t i o n w i t h the local c o u n c i l s . It lost no time in b e g i n n i n g o p e r a t i o n s and in 1925 b e g a n to c o n v e r t the form er r a i l w a y t r a c k at S t a n w e l l Par k to a road and to r e c o n s t r u c t the roa d f r o m B ul li P ass to Bulli. The b i t u m e n s u r f a c e was p l a c e d on the r o a d in 1926, w h e n the b r i d g e s o v e r h i s t o r i c S l a c k y Fl at or M a i l b a g H o l l o w of e a r l i e r day s w e r e r e p l a c e d , one in timb er and one in c o ncr ete .

The m o t o r c ar a p p e a r e d on the roads of B u ll i e a r l y in the n e w c e n t u r y and in 1906 a p a rt y m a d e ne ws b y t r a v e l l i n g f ro m W o o n o n a to C a t a r a c t and back, a d i s t a n c e of 32 m i l e s in five hours. In the f i r s t d e c a d e a j o u r n e y b y m o t o r car or the a p p e a r a n c e of one was news in the pap e r s . At first b r e a k ­ d o w n s w e r e c o m m o n an d cars b o g g e d in the m u d at times. F o l l o w i n g the F i r s t W o r l d W a r the u s e of m o t o r cars b e c a m e m o r e c o m m o n an d r e l i a b i l i t y improved. L o r r i e s d e v e l o p e d and as th ey b e c a m e l a r g e r they b e c a m e k n o w n as trucks. T h e y b e g a n the c a r r i a g e of coal in the d i s t r i c t and the s e m i ­ trailer appeared in the thi rt i e s for the c a r r i a g e of l a rge r loads. F o l l o w i n g the S e c o n d W o r l d W a r t h e y c a r r i e d o u t s i z e loads t h r o u g h the d i s t r i c t and d i e s e l truc ks w e r e pla c e d into use for h e a v y t r a ns por t.

Th e d e v e l o p m e n t of the m o t o r car at the end of the F i r s t W a r b r o u g h t the o p e n i n g of tourist re sor ts a w a y f r o m the r a i l w a y s , the p r i n c i p a l b e in g S u b l i m e P o i n t n a m e d in 1911. It r e c e i v e d n o t i c e in 1917 as b e i n g r e a c h e d b y a s t e e p w a l k f r o m A u s t i n m e r , a b o v e w h i c h it s t o o d 1300 feet a b o v e the sea. T h e foot t ra ck was first cut in 1916. O n c e a g a i n it was found n e c e s s a r y to r e sum e the land for p u b l i c r e c r e a t i o n and the B ul li S hi re C o u n c i l p r e s s e d in 1920 for the r e s u m p t i o n of b o t h the B u lli Pass and S u b l i m e P oin t lands. The S u b l i m e P o int P a r k of 13 a c r e s fr om the e s t a t e of W i g r a m A l l e n was a c q u i r e d b y the G o v e r n m e n t a n d h a n d e d o v e r to trustees, i n c l u d i n g se ve r a l B ulli Sh ire C o u n c i l l o r s and r e s i d e n t s , at a c e r e m o n y on

H o l i d a y t imes s a w t r a i n l o a d s of t o u r i s t s f r o m the c i t y po ur i n t o S t a n w e l l P a r k and C lif ton , and w i t h the p a s s i n g of the y e a r s to all p o i n t s sou th, g r a d u a l l y i n c r e a s i n g u n t i l g r ea t c r o w d s f i l l e d m o r e and m o r e t r ai ns at h o l i d a y times b o u n d for S y d n e y ' s g r e a t s o u t h e r n c o a s t a l p l a y g r o u n d .

The p oin t was said to o f fe r the fine st p a n o r a m i c v i e w in the w o rld and was v i s i t e d at that time by 6000 t o u r i s t s a n n u a l l y f r o m the to uri st bureau. It was n a m e d L a d y F u l l e r Park. By 1930 s e v e r a l cars, all empty, had r u n o v e r the c l i f f bu t in that ye ar a car d r o p p e d a m o n g a p a r t y of s c h o o l g i r l s at the bo tto m, k i l l i n g one of them. The N a t i o n a l Roads and M o t o r i s t s ' A s s o c i a t i o n then e r e c t e d a s a f e t y f en ce w h i c h has p r e v e n t e d an y c ars f rom

F r o m the t we nt i e s the m o t o r car a l s o a d d e d its q u o t a to the b e a c h e s and sights and opened up a still greater field of opportunity for sight-seeing. Motor camping with car-hauled caravan trailers appeared more and m o r e u n til e a c h s e a s o n t o d a y sees the c a m p i n g a r e a s c r a m m e d w i t h c a m p s a l o n g the seash or e. T o u r i s t h o t e l s a l s o a p p e a r e d ; the H o t e l P a n o r a m a , p e r c h e d on the top of the p r e c i p i c e a b o v e T h i r r o u l w ith " u n e q u a l l e d p a n o r a m i c v i e w s " was b u i l t in 1928. The n e w era b r o u g h t the b e g i n n i n g of h i g h w a y c o n s t r u c t i o n in N e w S o u t h W a l e s and on 19 O c t o b e r 1920 the r oad l i n k i n g S y d n e y w i t h M e l b o u r n e by the c o a s t was n ame d P r i n c e ' s H igh w a y , a f t e r the P r i n c e of W a l e s who had v i s i t e d the S t a t e s h o r t l y b efo r e , at a c e r e m o n y at the B u l l i L o o k o u t b y the

S a t u r d a y 13 J u n e 1925.

g o i n g o v e r since. T h e A u t o m o b i l e C lu b of A u s t r a l i a and the T o u r i s t B u r e a u v i s i t e d C o w p e r ' s L o o k o u t a b o v e C l i f t o n in 1924 to e x p l o r e the p o s s i b i l i t y of o p e n i n g up a ro ad to it but none has yet b e e n built . M a n y c e n t r e s not link ed b y road or rail b e g a n to be v i s i t e d m o r e f r o m 1930, w h e n b u s h w a l k i n g or h i k i n g b e c a m e 'popular. By that time the G a r r a w a r r a P a r k b e t w e e n the s o u t h e r n b o u n d a r y of N a t i o n a l P a r k and the r a i l w a y line an d sea c o a s t h a d b e e n d e d i c a t e d and it w a s c o m b e d b y hi ker s, w h i l s t o t h e r p a rt s of the B u l l i S h i r e w e r e a l s o vi sit e d . B u s h w a l k i n g c o n t i n u e s today. Bulli Pass r e m a i n e d a r e n o w n e d s h o w p l a c e w i t h its s e m i - t r o p i c a l j u n g l e and c o n t i n u e d r e p r e s e n t a t i o n s wer e m a d e b y the s h i r e an d p r o g r e s s a s s o c i a t i o n s

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to the G o v e r n m e n t to r e s u m e it and p r e s e r v e foliage, trees, p a l m s , ferns, vines and creepers as a national as distinct f ro m a l oc al park. W i l d f l o w e r s , so long a tour ist a t t r a c t i o n of the n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a , w e r e a s s u r e d of p r e s e r v a t i o n w h e n an Act of P a r l i a m e n t in 1927 p r e v e n t e d t h e m b e i n g p ick e d . W a r a t a h s , C h r i s t m a s b u s h and b e l l s and a t h o u s a n d c o l o u r f u l n a t i v e f lowers, w h i c h in the f o rme r c e n t u r y w e r e d i s p l a y e d at the a n n u a l S h e r b r o o k e a n d B u l l i w i l d f l o w e r s how s and w h i c h in s p r i n g d r e w v i s i t o r s f r o m far and near, n o w f l o u r i s h u n m o l e s t e d on the m o u n t a i n s i d e s and plateau. T h e a r e a a r o u n d the o r i g i n a l W e b e r ' s p l a t f o r m l o o k o u t , n a m e d H o p e t o u n P a r k in 1901, was i m p r o v e d in 1928 w i t h the r e p l a c e m e n t of its k i o s k for t o u r i s t s b y a m o d e r n one. ' ' 'I T h e B u ll i Pa ss was e a r l y n o t e d as a t r y i n g m o u n t a i n c l i m b of u p w a r d s o f two miles. Its s t e e p n e s s is e x c e e d e d b y o n l y four o t h e r m o u n t a i n c l i m b s in N e w S o u t h W a l e s in p e r c e n t a g e g r a d e and by o n l y the N u n d l e - H a n g i n g R o c k R o a d in h a v i n g a s t e e p e r g r a d e of the s a m e length. T h e pass a l s o r e m a i n e d a dangerous descent. Bol t i n g h o r s e s and failing motor brakes caused a p p a l l i n g a c c i d e n t s , m a n y of w h i c h had d i s a s t r o u s r es ult s. A five-horse t e a m b o l t e d in 1910, s a f e l y r o u n d i n g the E l b o w in its d e s c e n t b u t t h r o w i n g out the passengers as it went. Th e coach was smashed but all p r o v i d e n t i a l l y e s c a p e d s e r i o u s injury. ' I' G r o w i n g m o t o r t r a f f i c in its e a r l y d a y s d r e w an i n s t r u c t i o n f r o m B u l l i S h i r e C o u n c i l that Bu lli Pass was i m p a s s a b l e to m o t o r s w h i c h f o u n d the a s c e n t and d e s c e n t a s e ver e s t r a i n on t he ir m e c h a n i s m . C ar s an d l o r r i e s c a u g h t fire f r o m e s c e s s i v e use of bra k e s , w h i l s t f r o m time to time o t h e r s c r a s h e d o f f the road, c a p s i z e d and s o m e r s a u l t e d , o c c u p a n t s b e i n g k i l l e d or in jur e d . In the tw en t i e s a s a f e t y s i d i n g wa s b u i l t at the E l b o w for c a r s out of c o n t r o l and is still m a i n t a i n e d . F r o m the foot of the Bu lli Pass the v i l l a g e s g r e w and e x p a n d e d a l o n g the c o a s t a l strip. The twentieth century village of Coledale grew rapi dly with h o u s e s and shops. In D e c e m b e r 1907 C o l e d a l e P r o g r e s s A s s o c i a t i o n was f o r m e d w i t h F r a n k C a t e r as p r e s i d e n t . T h e R o m a n C a t h o l i c C h u r c h wa s b u i l t of w e a t h e r b o a r d in Y o u n g Stree t and the first M a s s wa s c e l e b r a t e d in it b y R e v Fr D u n n e on S u n d a y 14 J u n e 1908. T h e M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h H a l l of w e a t h e r b o a r d , a l s o in Y o u n g Street, w a s o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d o n S a t u r d a y 8 A u g u s t 1908. It was b l o w n off its p i e r s in a g a l e in 1921. The Coledale p u b l i c s c h o o l for w h i c h a g i t a t i o n b e g a n in 1909 w a s o p e n e d on 3 0 M a r c h 19 12 w i t h an o f f i c i a l lunch eon , by M c K e n z i e , I n s p e c t o r of S c h o o l s . Children p r e v i o u s l y a t t e n d e d A u s t i n m e r s cho o l but t e a c h i n g at C o l e d a l e did not c o m m e n c e until July. T h e sch ool of b r i c k c o s t £ 9 0 0 and o c c u p i e d a l arge site o v e r l o o k i n g the ocean. By 1917 it had an e n r o l m e n t of 260 and a d d i t i o n s c o s t i n g £763 w e r e m a de . A n o t h e r r o o m w a s a d d e d in 1923. In 1925 a t w o - a c r e site was o b t a i n e d fr om the A l l e n e s t a t e in a d d i t i o n to two a c r e s f r o m G r i l l s for a r e c r e a t i o n ground. S c a r b o r o u g h a t t r a c t e d t o u r i s t s e a r l y in the c e n t u r y b u t g r e w m a i n l y w i t h the h o me s of coal min ers . T h e s c h o o l at C l i f t o n w a s a b a n d o n e d and a n e w t i m b e r s cho o l built b e t w e e n C l i f t o n a nd S c a r b o r o u g h v i l l a g e s to s e r v e b o t h was o p e n e d in J a n u a r y 1914 by the M i n i s t e r for E d u c a t i o n . It c o s t £ 4 0 0 0 and c o n t i n u e s to serve to this day. The n e w s c h o o l f i rs t n a me d C l i f t o n was r e n a m e d S c a r b o r o u g h in 1916. A new court house was opened by A Elliott SM in J u l y 1911.

D e s p i t e the t e n d e n c y to m o v e s o u t h w a r d s a n e w b r i c k S c h o o l of A r t s w i t h t w o - s t o r e y e d front was b u i l t at C l i f t o n in 1911. A n e w A n g l i c a n C h u r c h of St P a u l w a s built of tim b e r in 1922 at the foot of the hill s o u t h of Scarborough. The f o u n d a t i o n s tone wa s laid by V e n A r c h d e a c o n M a r t i n MA. T h e S c a r b o r o u g h s w i m m i n g b a t h s w e r e b u ilt b e l o w the P r e s b y t e r i a n C h u r c h in 1926 b y v o l u n t a r y labour. W i t h the o p e n i n g t h i r t i e s S c a r b o r o u g h and W o m b a r r a m e r g e d a l o n g the m a i n road, and f a r t h e r s o u t h m e t C o l e d a l e . At S t a n w e l l P a r k b u i l d l i n g lots w e r e sold in 1907 and 1914 a n d the settlement opened as a tourist and surfing re s o r t . T he H e l e n s b u r g h - S t a n w e l l P a r k L i f e S a v i n g C l u b was f o r m e d on 11 F e b r u a r y 1908, o n e of the first o u t s i d e the S y d n e y area. In its f i r s t y e a r it ha d 120 members. T he a r e a b e c a m e a famous h o l iday, s u r f i n g and c a m p i n g resort. The St George's Church of England foundation stone wa s laid by Rev W N e w m a r c h on 20 D e c e m b e r 1913 and the c h u r c h b u i l t of timber. A t i m b e r p u b l i c s c h o o l wa s b u i l t b e s i d e it and o p e n e d o n S a t u r d a y 21 A p r i l 1928. O u t s t a n d i n g in the d e v e l o p m e n t of B u l l i S h i r e w a s the g r o w t h of A u s t i n m e r as a s u r f i n g , s w i m m i n g and h o l i d a y resort. To m e e t the g r o w i n g p a t r o n a g e the r a i l w a y s t a t i o n wa s l e n g t h e n e d arid b u i l d i n g s an d a p p o i n t m e n t s b r o u g h t up to d a t e in 1907. The post o f f i c e was e r e c t e d on the end of the p l a t f o r m a n d b u i l d i n g s r a p i d l y a p p e a r e d in the town w h i c h w a s b e c o m i n g n o t e d for its m o u n t a i n an d s e a s i d e air. It was r e p o r t e d in 1907 that it " s a t i s f i e s the m o d e r n c r a z e for surf b a t h i n g " and c o r r e c t l y p r o p h e s i e d : " T h a t A u s t i n m e r is d e s t i n e d to b e c o m e the B r i g h t o n of N e w S o u t h W a l e s has b e e n p u b l i c l y a c k n o w l e d g e d b y the c i t y p ress". Th e t w e n t i e s s a w it t e r m e d the " R i v i e r a of N e w S o u t h Wales". T h e e n d of the first d e c a d e of the t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y s a w the g r o w i n g p o p u l a r i t y o f the t o w n s h i p o v e r the s u m m e r m o n t h s , c o n t i n u i n g o v e r h a l f a c e n t u r y to m a k e it the o u t s t a n d i n g g u e s t h o u s e a n d s u r f i n g r e s o r t of the coast. B u i l d i n g s w e r e q u i c k l y e r e c t e d for al l p u r p o s e s and an a c t i v e p r o g r e s s a s s o c i a t i o n formed in 1914 p l a y e d a m a j o r part in its c i v i c development. As w i t h all r e c r e a t i o n a r eas in n o r t h e r n Ill a w a r r a , the land a l o n g the b e a c h front had to be b o u g h t b a c k a g a i n f r o m h o l d e r s - a sad r e p e r c u s s i o n f r o m the s y s t e m of a c e n t u r y b e f o r e w h e n all the land was u n w i s e l y g i v e n a w a y or sold in large areas. S o o n a f t e r the first land s u b d i v i s i o n in 1908 the f i r s t f u r n i s h e d h o u s e for t o u r i s t s , j o c u l a r l y c a l l e d the " B u t t e r b o x " , w a s b u i l t a n d b e c a m e the m o d e r n O u t l o o k G u e s t House. Home b u i l d i n g on the w e s t e r n s i d e of the r a i l w a y line b e g a n w h e n t r a f f i c and f o o t b r i d g e s w e r e e r e c t e d in 1917. At the b e a c h n e w b a t h s w e r e b u i l t in 1917 on the r o c k s n e a r the s o u t h h e a d l a n d , r e p l a c i n g the f o r m e r b a t h s o p e n e d in 1914. At the s a m e time the s e a w a l l wa s e r e c t e d an d the c r e e k p i p e d f r o m the c e n t r e of the b e a c h to t he s o u t h e r n h e a d l a n d . In 1919 it w a s f o und that i m p r o v e m e n t s , d r a i n s , s e a w a l l and d r e s s i n g s h eds had b e e n b u i l t by the P r o g r e s s A s s o c i a t i o n o n a l i e n a t e d lands and the G o v e r n m e n t s u r v e y o r was c a l l e d to a s s i s t r e s o l v e the t angle. By the t h i r t i e s A u s t i n m e r had b e c o m e one of the s t a t e ' s p r e m i e r s e a s i d e r e s o r t s and in 1938 the B u l l i S h i r e C o u n c i l b u i l t a n e w k i o s k to r e p l a c e the for m e r one. D u r i n g the ten y e a r s p r i o r to that £ 1 0 , 5 9 0 h a d b e e n s pent on b e a c h improvements.

71

A r e t u r n e d s o l d i e r s ' c o n c e r t party, the B l a c k D i a m o n d s , p r o v i d e d p o p u l a r e n t e r t a i n m e n t on the b e a c h in 1919. Austinmer's growing popularity n e c e s s i t a t e d b u i l d i n g of n e w d r e s s i n g s h e d s a n d s u r f clu b r o o m s in 1930. T h e y w e r e o p e n e d by the G o v e r n o r of N e w S o u t h W a l e s , Sir P h i l i p G ame, e l e c t r i c light b e i n g s w i t c h e d on at the b e a c h for n i g h t s u r f i n g at the same time. The su rf c l u b was formed in 1910. A u s t i n m e r ' s p r o g r e s s was m a r k e d by the p r o v i s i o n of n e w b u i l d i n g s and public institutions. The All Saints' C h u r c h of E n g l a n d was e x t e n d e d in 1908 an d a s c h o o l hall built in 1926. T h e f o u n d a t i o n s t o n e o f the M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h in M o o r e S t re et was laid b y Mrs P N Slade o n 3 D e c e m b e r 1921. T h e c h u r c h b u i l t in b r i c k at a c os t of £8 50 w a s o p e n e d o n S a t u r d a y 7 J a n u a r y 1922 b y Rev C J P r es cot t. A m e m o r i a l f e n c e and g a t e s to F l t / L t Ivor H M e g g i t t RAF, k i l l e d on se rv i c e on 27 D e c e m b e r 1 940 w e r e later erected. T h e A u s t i n m e r S c h o o l of A rts was b e g u n in 1920 an d h a d a l i b r a r y in the s u r f clu b hall u n ti l it was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d in a c o t t a g e in M o o r e S t r e e t in O c t o b e r 1924. H S Y o u n g w o r k e d for the i n s t i t u t i o n . In 1933 it was b o u g h t by the A u s t i n m e r RSL and r e n a m e d A u s t i n m e r R e t u r n e d S a i l o r s and S o l d i e r s ' M e m o r i a l I n s t i t u t e w i t h f a c i l i t i e s for the g e n e r a l p u b l i c also. The n e w b r i c k post o f f i c e was b u i l t in 1919 a l s o in M o o r e S t r e e t a n d the Bo y Scouts' a nd Girl Guide s' C l u b in 1926. The War Memorial fountain was u n v e i l e d by Mr s C h e a d l e on 19 J a n u a r y 1922. T he p u b l i c sch ool w a s ' i m p r o v e d w h e n in 1928 a n e w c l a s s r o o m , s t a f f an d s t o r e r o o m s b u i l t on the s o u t h e r n e n d of the e a r l i e r b u i l d i n g w e r e o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y J W Du nlo p, I n s p e c t o r of S c h o o l s . T h e P a r e n t s and C iti z e n s ' A s s o c i a t i o n o f the s c h o o l had b e e n f o r m e d in 1921, J C l o w e s b e i n g p re s i d e n t . A u s t i n m e r had r e a c h e d the s t a g e o f b e i n g an a t t r a c t i v e tou r i s t reso rt b y that t i m e an d had s e v e r a l g u e s t h o u s e s and m a n y t o u ris t f a c i lit ies . J u s t s o u t h w a s the g r o w i n g t o w n s h i p of T h i r r o u l , the e a s t e r n s id e of w h i c h , u n d e r the title of T h i r r o u l P a r k was sold at a u c t i o n on 1 O c t o b e r 1906 b y H F C o t t e r e l l o f Bulli. H o m e b u i l d i n g b e g a n q u i c k l y an d c o n t i n u e d ra pi d l y , the a d v e n t of surf b a t h i n g m a k i n g it for s ome y e a r s the p r e m i e r s u r f i n g and h o l i d a y r e s o r t pr ior to the i n s t a l l a t i o n of the r a i l w a y e n g i n e yar ds. The p a s s i n g y e a r s w e r e m a r k e d b y the e r e c t i o n of m a n y p u b l i c b u i l d i n g s . The w e a t h e r b o a r d post o f f i c e was b u r n e d d o w n in 1912 a n d an o f f i c i a l post o f f i c e e s t a b l i s h e d in 1913. T h e n e w b r i c k b u i l d i n g was b u i l t b e s i d e the o v e r b r i d g e in 1916 and the b r i c k b u i l d i n g e r e c t e d in 1923 c o n t i n u e s in use. The h i s t o r i c B ulli Pass H o tel w h i c h s t ood on the n o r t h - w e s t e r n c o r n e r of G e o r g e and P h i l l i p S t r e e t s was d e m o l i s h e d in 1914 an d a n e w t w o - s t o r e y e d b r i c k h o t e l b u i l t o n the site. F r o m tha t time, h o w e v e r , the s h o p p i n g c e n t r e b e g a n to m o v e to the e a s t e r n s ide of the r a i l w a y line t h o u g h b u s i n e s s a l s o c o n t i n u e d on the west. T h e M i l i t a r y H all , a l s o c a l l e d the A r t i l l e r y Hall, built of w e a t h e r b o a r d in the e i g h t i e s on the e a s t e r n side o f the m a i n road just s o u t h of its j u n c t i o n w i t h G e o r g e Street, c o n t i n u e d to s e rve for social g a t h e r i n g s u ntil the S c h o o l of A r t s was o p e n e d on T u e s d a y 27 M a y 1913. It was b u i l t n e a r the s ite o f the w e s t e r n r a i l w a y p l a t f o r m an d had a t w o - s t o r e y b r i c k front w i t h a w e a t h e r b o a r d h a l l to se at 600 b e h i n d it. It was e x t e n d e d in 1924.

T h e f o r m e r M i l i t a r y Hall wa s d e m o l i s h e d in 1919 an d e r e c t e d at B u l l i as a M e t h o d i s t Hall. The T h i r r o u l Soldi e r s ' M e m o r i a l was b u i l t on the c o r n e r n e a r the S c h o o l of A r t s on land g i v e n by B u l l i S h i r e C o u n c i l , as a r e s u l t of the w o r k b e g u n b y Mr s A r n o l d H i g g i n s an d c o m p l e t e d b y M r s W R i a c h w h o unveiled it on A n z a c D a y 1920. A literary t o u c h was added when D H L a w r e n c e , E n g l i s h n o v e l i s t , r e s i d e d at T h i r r o u l at " W y e w u r k " b e t w e e n C r a i g S t r e e t and the sea on the s lope of M a c a u l e y ' s H i l l in 1922 a n d w r o t e his n o v e l " K a n g aroo". T h e c h u r c h e s at T h i r r o u l b u i l t and e x t e n d e d . St D a v i d ' s C h u r c h of E n g l a n d H a l l was b u i l t in 1909 near R a y m o n d Road and m o v e d in the e a r l y t w e n t i e s to R o x b o r o u g h Av e n u e . The M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h was b u i l t on the n o r t h e r n side of the b e n d in the m a i n road e a s t of the r a i l w a y an d o p e n e d on S u n d a y 9 A p r i l 1911. A v e r a n d a h was e r e c t e d at the r e a r in 1919 and r e p l a c e d b y the c h u r c h h a l l in 1923. The P r e s b y t e r i a n C h u r c h wa s o p e n e d on W e d n e s d a y 31 M a y 1911 by the M o d e r a t o r , Rt R e v R o b e r t K a y MA. It s t o o d o n the w e s t e r n side of the m a i n road at the s o u t h e r n e n t r a n c e to the v i l l a g e . T he t h r e e c h u r c h e s w e r e of w e a t h e r b o a r d and w e r e lit b y a c e t y l e n e gas. T h e R o m a n C a t h o l i c C h u r c h of St M o l u a was b u i l t in b r i c k n e a r the post o f f i c e in 1921, the f o u n d a t i o n s t one b e i n g laid b y A r c h b i s h o p K e l l y on 8 May. T h e B a p t i s t c h u r c h was b u i l t o n the m a i n r o a d f a r t h e r n o r t h in f i b r o c e m e n t and w e a t h e r b o a r d , the f o u n d a t i o n s t o n e b e i n g laid on 17 D e c e m b e r 1938 b y Rev C l e u g h Black. T h e T h i r r o u l p u b l i c school wa s f o und to be t a x e d w i t h 350 p u p i l s in 1915 and i m p r o v e m e n t s w e r e m a d e a g a i n and a g a i n u n t i l in 1927 a ne w t w o - s t o r e y e d b r i c k b u l d l i n g c o s t i n g £6875 was b u i l t and o p e n e d b y the M i n i s t e r for E d u c a t i o n , H o n W Davies, MLA. The e n r o l m e n t ha d r i s e n from 106 p u p i l s in 1900 to 600 in 1927. T h e i n s t a l l a t i o n o f r a i l w a y s h u n t i n g y a r d s and l o c o m o t i v e d e p o t in 1915 b r o u g h t a b o u t a big change at T h i r r o u l and the c o m p l e t i o n of the w o r k in 1917 w i t h 15 s t e a m e n g i n e s b r o u g h t 160 r a i l w a y m e n to reside in the town. T h e r a i l w a y i n s t i t u t e wa s o p e n e d in 1920. T h e loss for a time o f t o u r i s t f a v o u r b e c a u s e of the smoke, s t e a m and n o i s e of the e n g i n e s was m a d e up b y the a r r i v a l of p e r m a n e n t w o r k e r s to live in the town. At the b e a c h the d e v e l o p m e n t of f a c i l i t i e s , as at A u s t i n m e r , i n v o l v e d the r e s u m p t i o n of fores h o r e lands. T h e n e w d r e s s i n g s h e d s w e r e o p e n e d in 1922 a nd s u r f i n g g r e w in p o p u l a r i t y w i t h the p a s s i n g years. T h o u s a n d s of v i s i t o r s s t r e a m e d t h r o u g h the r a i l w a y s t a t i o n at h o l i d a y times. A d i v e r s i o n o c c u r r e d in 1936 w h e n a H o l y m a n a i r l i n e r o ff c o u r s e in m i s t l a n d e d o n the beach, a i d e d by the h e a d l i g h t s of cars a r r a n g e d for the p u r p o s e by c i t i z e n s . The two p a s s e n g e r s and m a i l s went on to S y d n e y b y t r a i n a n d the p l a n e took o f f the f o l l o w i n g m o r n i n g for M a s c o t a e r o d r o m e at Sydney. The m e r g i n g of coastal villages continued south from Thirroul where Bulli t o w n s h i p had m e t W o o n o n a f o r m i n g a c o n t i n u o u s s e t t l e m e n t a l o n g the m a i n road w h i c h , s o u t h from the foot of B u l l i P a s s b e c a m e k n own as P r i n c e ' s Highway. A l t h o u g h the o r i g i n a l v i l l a g e c e n t r e s w e r e a l m o s t two m i l e s a p a r t

Tl 72 73 the c o m m e r c i a l and c i v i c c e n t r e s m o v e d t owa r d s one a n o t h e r and, t o g e t h e r w i t h h o mes , s t r u n g out as one c o n t i n u o u s s e t t l e m e n t w it h s i d e s t r e e t s r e a c h i n g t o w a rds b o t h sea and m o u n t a i n . The E a r l y C l o s i n g Act b e g a n on 1 J a n u a r y 1900 but a p p l i e d o n l y to municipalities. In F e b r u a r y 1901 B ul li and H e l e n s b u r g h w e r e g a z e t t e d c o u n t r y s h o p p i n g a r e a s w i t h B ulli shops c l o s e d W e d n e s d a y a f t e r n o o n s a n d o p e n S a t u r d a y s to 10 pm and H e l e n s b u r g h c l os ed S a t u r d a y a f t e r n o o n s a nd o p e n F r i d a y s to 10 pm. In S e p t e m b e r 1910 the U n i v e r s a l S a t u r d a y H a l f H o l i d a y A c t w a s a p p l i e d to the C o u n t y of C u m b e r l a n d w h i c h in clu des the a r e a n o r t h o f B u l l i jetty, r e s u l t i n g in shops in T h i r r o u l an d n o r t h w a r d s c l o s i n g on S a t u r d a y a f t e r n o o n s w h i l s t t ho se in B u l l i an d W o o n o n a r e m a i n e d o p e n . Six o ' c l o c k c l o s i n g of h o t e l s b e g a n on 21 J uly 1916 f o l l o w i n g w h i c h the h a l l s which had served for evening use gradually g ave p l ac e to other accommodat ion. T h e i n s t a l l a t i o n o f a to wn w a t e r s u p p l y for the n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a c o a s t a l strip, o r i g i n a l l y i n v e s t i g a t e d in 1892, was p l a n n e d w i t h the b u i l d i n g of C a t a r a c t D a m in 1907 at the b a c k of B u l l i M o u n t a i n . The p i p e s for the m a i n s a r r i v e d at Bu lli s t a t i o n in 1909 and w e r e laid s oon a f t e r w a r d s . W a t e r s u p p l y e x t e n d e d a l o n g the c oa st d u r i n g the t hr ee y e a r s f o l l o w i n g . The telephone exchange a n d the o f f i c i a l post m a i n road b e sid e the t e l e p h o n e e x c h a n g e was o f f i c e w a s b u ilt there.

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1

was i n s t a l l e d at Bu lli w i t h 28 s u b s c r i b e r s in 1907 o f f i c e b u i l d i n g in 1926 at a cost of £ 1 7 6 0 on the former o f f i c e on the c o r n e r of P a r k Road. The r e m o v e d to T h i r r o u l in 1923 w h e n the n e w b r i c k p o s t

Th e " B u l l i T i m e s " c o n t i n u e d to se rve the d i s t r i c t , a d o p t i n g the t it le " B u l l i T im es and S hi re A d v o c a t e " on 5 O c t o b e r 1907 w h e n W J B o u r k e a g a i n to ok o v e r the paper. In 1928 it p a s s e d to the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " as pu b l i s h e r . At B u l l i the n e w p o l i c e s t a t i o n w as b u i l t b e s i d e the c o u r t h o u s e in 1918, the f o r m e r s t a t i o n b e i n g d e m o l i s h e d . The n e w c o n v e n t s c h o o l f o u n d a t i o n s t o n e was laid by A r c h b i s h o p K e l l y n e x t to the R o m a n C a t h o l i c c h u r c h b u i l d i n g s on Sund ay 7 O c t o b e r 1923 an d the s c hoo l b l e s s e d and o p e n e d on S u n d a y 10 F e b r u a r y 1924 b y M o s t R e v Dr She e h a n . T h e s c hoo l w a s a b r i c k b u i l d i n g w i t h a 32 feet f r o n t a g e to P a r k Road and a d e p t h o f 90 feet, w i t h four c l a s s r o o m s . T h e for m e r s c h o o l p r o p e r t y on the m a i n r o a d o p p o s i t e P a r k R oad was then d i s p o s e d of. A n e w Sch o o l of A rts p r o j e c t in 1924 l a p sed as h a d a f orm e r one h a l f a c e n t u r y b e f o r e . The B u i l i - W o o n o n a fire s t a t i o n on the m a i n road b e s i d e the p o l i c e s t a t i o n was o p e n e d b y the B o a r d o f F i r e C o m m i s s i o n e r s on 7 N o v e m b e r 1924 w h e n a n e w m o t o r fire e n g i n e w a s a l s o i nst a l l e d . L ate r the s ame d a y the n e w fire s t a t i o n at T h i r r o u l w a s a l s o

opened.

At St A u g u s t i n e ' s C h u r c h of E n g l a n d the b u i l d i n g of the c h a n c e l o n the e a s t e r n end of the c h u r c h w as u n d e r t a k e n . Th e s h i n g l e s had b e e n r e p l a c e d b y a s lat e roof in 1912. The w o r k n e c e s s i t a t e d the r e m o v a l of the o r i g i n a l f o u n d a t i o n stone u n d e r w h i c h w e r e f ound c o p i e s of the " S y d n e y M o r n i n g H e r a l d " , " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " and " A u s t r a l i a n C h u r c h m a n " d a m a g e d b y m o i s t u r e w h i c h had e n t e r e d the b o t t l e in w h i c h t h e y had b e e n p l a c e d in 1882. The

d o c u m e n t h a d e n t i r e l y de ca y e d . The f o u n d a t i o n s ton e was r e - l a i d o n the s o u t h - e a s t e r n corn er of the s a n c t u a r y on 25 J u l y 1925 and u n d e r it we re p l a c e d the paper s of 1882 and a d d i t i o n a l d o c u m e n t s and coins . The new c h a n c e l w a s d e d i c a t e d on S a t u r d a y 29 Augu st 1925 b y V e r y Rev A E T a b b o t , D e a n of S ydn e y . At the time of the c h u r c h j u b i l e e in 1932 H a m i l t o n G i b s o n c o m p l e t e d 30 years as S u n d a y Scho ol S u p e r i n t e n d e n t a n d c o n t i n u e d h i s w o r k to c o m p l e t e 50 years in o f f i c e , a l s o s e r v i n g as a l i c e n s e d lay r e a d e r for a s i m i l a r period. T h e S e v e n t h D a y A d v e n t i s t C h u r c h of w e a t h e r b o a r d was o r i g i n a l l y at P r o s p e c t and s u b s e q u e n t l y at L i v e r p o o l b u t was r e m o v e d an d r e - e r e c t e d o n the h i l l t o p j u s t s o u t h of the foot of B u lli Pa ss in 1943 for the c o n g r e g a t i o n first g a t h e r e d at W o l l o n g o n g in 1939. 1 . 1 The O d d f e l l o w s ' Hall on the m a i n road was t a ken o v e r in 1918 b y the n e w l y fo rm ed M a s o n i c Lodge B u l li w h i c h p u r c h a s e d it for £825, r e m o d e l l e d it, r e m o v e d the p o rch fro m the front and c o n s e c r a t e d it for use on 7 O c t o b e r 1918, the c h a r t e r h a v i n g b e e n g r a n t e d on 1 F e b r u a r y . F r o m L o d g e Bulli, L o d g e T h i r r o u l wa s form ed in 1925 and L odge W o o n o n a in 1951. At W o o n o n a the B a p t i s t s b e g a n s e r v i c e s in the S c ho ol of A rts in 1905. The B a p t i s t C h u r c h of w e a t h e r b o a r d was o p e n e d nex t to the S c h o o l of A r t s on S u n d a y 2 A u g u s t 1908. F o u n d a t i o n sto nes w er e laid on 14 M a y by H u g h D i xon and Mrs W Buckingham. T h e M e t h o d i s t s p u r c h a s e d a s i t e in W o o n o n a for their n e w c h u r c h in 1908 and the n e w b r i c k b u i l d i n g was e r e c t e d b y G H W a t e r s . The f o u n d a t i o n stones w e r e laid o n 6 F e b r u a r y 1909 b y Mrs J o h n W y n n and C Pl im m e r . A f t e r M e t h o d i s t U n i o n in 1902 there wa s the o r i g i n a l s t one c h u r c h at Old B u l l i a n d the former P r i m i t i v e M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h n e a r F a r r e l l Road, w i t h n o n e f a r t h e r south until C o r r i m a l was reached. T h e p o p u l a t i o n i n c r e a s e d at W o o n o n a and the new c h u r c h wa s s i t u a t e d in the h e a r t of p o p u l a t i o n w i t h 100 feet f r o n t a g e to the m a i n r o a d s o u t h o f the p o s t o f f i c e . T h e c h u r c h was o p e n e d o n 28 M a y 1909 by G e o r g e Wood s. A s c h o o l h a l l and k i t c h e n w e r e a d d e d at the re ar in 1923. T h e f o r mer P r i m i t i v e M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h w a s sold to B u l l i S h i r e Council. The S a l v a t i o n A r m y b o u g h t its W o o n o n a H a l l an d q u a r t e r s on the m a i n road just s o u t h o f Russ el l S tre e t f r o m Mrs P r i t c h a r d for £ 7 0 0 in 1918. The name of the c o r p s was c h a n g e d f rom B u lli to W o o n o n a in 1922. A b a n d r o o m was b u i l t at the rear of the hall b y v o l u n t a r y l a b o u r in 1949. T h e o r i g i n a l Scho ol of A r t s was a g a i n r e n o v a t e d in 1911 and a f t e r e a r l i e r a t t e m p t s to rebuild, a n e w b r i c k b u i l d i n g w a s e r e c t e d o n the s ame s i t e in 1935 at a cost of £2000, thus r e p l a c i n g the w e a t h e r b o a r d s t r u c t u r e w h i c h had s e r v e d for 70 years. D i f f i c u l t i e s of f i n a n c e for 20 y e a r s w e r e o v e r c o m e and f o u n d a t i o n st on e s w e r e laid o n S a t u r d a y 17 A u g u s t b y J a m e s D a v i d s o n w h o w it h H S F r y had assisted its revival in 1889 and A E 0 S el ler s, s u p e r i n t e n d e n t of the B e l l a m b i Coa l Com pa ny. T h e new b u i l d i n g was o p e n e d o n F r i d a y 6 D e c e m b e r b y H A Bott, g e n e r a l m a n a g e r of th-> B e l l a m b i Coal C o m p a n y w h e n a t r i b u t e wa s p a i d to the a s s i s t a n c e g i v e n by the c o m p a n y and b y Sir F r e d e r i c k W a l e y o v e r the p r e c e d i n g 20 year s. The b u i l d i n g w i t h a red b r i c k fr ont was a p p r o a c h e d b y w i d e re d s t e p s and

74

75 c o n t a i n e d l ibr a r y , g a m e s an d c o m m i t t e e rooms, c l o a k ro om, b i l l i a r d r o o m and p u b l i c hall to sea t 300, w i t h suppe r room and k i t c h e n e t t e . T h e o r i g i n a l C h u r c h of E n g l a n d o p p o s i t e the S c h o o l of A r t s r e p l a c e d in 1926 b y a b r i c k c h u r c h of St Paul f ron t i n g P r i n c e ' s H i g h w a y . The f o u n d a t i o n s t o n e was laid b y A r c h b i s h o p W r i g h t on S a t u r d a y 28 A u g u s t . T h e c h u r c h in w h i c h Div i n e W o r s h i p w a s f o r m e r l y c o n d u c t e d in W o o n o n a s till s t a n d s at the r e a r of the c h u r c h . The fo rm e r P r e s b y t e r i a n C h u r c h in G r a y Str eet was r e p l a c e d by a b r i c k c h u r c h b u i l t b e t w e e n it and the c e m e t e r y in 1915. T h e f o u n d a t i o n s t one was laid by Mrs J o h n M c M e e k i n o n 8 Septem ber . A b r i c k h a l l w as b u i l t b e s i d e the c h u r c h in 1929 on the site first o c c u p i e d by the o r i g i n a l P r e s b y t e r i a n C h u r c h d e m o l i s h e d to p r o v i d e the site for it. J a m e s D a v i d s o n laid the f o u n d a t i o n s t o n e on 7 Se pt e m b e r . A w e a t h e r b o a r d m a n s e w a s b u i l t in 1956. The p u b l i c s c h o o l b u i l d i n g e r e c t e d in 1884 f r o n t i n g G r a y S t r e e t was d e m o l i s h e d in 1928 a f t e r the n e w t w o - s t o r e y e d infants s c h o o l h a d b e e n built, the f o u n d a t i o n s ton e for w h i c h had b e e n la id b y H o n W D a v i es, M i n i s t e r for E d u c a t i o n , on 24 Sept em ber . T h e b u i l d l i n g cost £ 1 0 , 3 5 0 and f o l l o w e d o n a d d i t i o n s m a d e b e t w e e n 1914 and 1923. T h e b u i l d i n g was o p e n e d o n S a t u r d a y 5 M a y 1928. Th e W o o n o n a I n d u s t r i a l C o - o p e r a t i v e S o c i e t y L i m i t e d b y 1928 h a d six b r a n c h e s and 300 0 m e m b e r s . It b e g a n br ead b a k i n g in 1904 and in 1928 a n e w two s t o r e y e d b r i c k b a k e r y in Ball' s Lane e r e c t e d at a c os t of £ 2 7 , 0 0 0 was o p e n e d b y F G r e e n h a l g h w h o had b een t rea s u r e r o f the s o c i e t y s in ce its i n c e p t i o n 32 y e ars p r e v i o u s l y . The b a k e r y b e h i n d the b u i l d i n g u s e d w h e n the s o c i e t y was first e s t a b l i s h e d had a f r o n t a g e o f 100 feet and a d e p t h of 200 feet and m a d e 1 7 , 0 0 0 loaves per week. Th e s o c i e t y r e c o g n i s e d the s e r v i c e s of W i l l i a m L i n d s a y as s e c r e t a r y for 38 y e a r s w h en, f o l l o w i n g his d e a t h on 23 Mar ch, a t a b l e t was a f f i x e d to the r e f r e s h m e n t r o o m b u i l d i n g . Woonona advanced r a i d l y as a c o m m e r c i a l c e n t r e and a w h i t e w a y was i n s t a l l e d t h r o u g h the b u s i n e s s c e n t r e in 1946. W o o n o n a and B u l l i b u il t a m e m o r i a l to the m e n of the F i r s t W o r l d W a r w i t h a f r e e s t o n e c o l u m n on a t r a c h y t e base on the n o r t h - e a s t e r n c o r n e r of the m a i n ro ad a n d H o p e t o u n S t r e e t at a cost of £400. It was u n v e i l e d in 1924 by J S Ki rt o n . P r e v i o u s l y , in 1923, a m e m o r i a l h a d b e e n e r e c t e d b y v o l u n t a r y labour on the beach, i n c o r p o r a t i n g a c a p t u r e d G e r m a n gun. At B e l l a m b i the w a r m e m o r i a l was b u i l t on the r a i l w a y s t a t i o n a n d w a s u n v e i l e d on 30 M a r c h b y the P rem i e r , Sir G e o r g e F u l le r, w h o was a c c o m p a n i e d b y s e v e r a l i m p o r t a n t personages.

procession fo llo we d the lights to Bulli Shire Chambers which wer e illuminated. A halt was m a d e there for a c e r e m o n y and the p r o c e s s i o n c o n t i n u e d to A u s t i n m e r and r e t u r n e d to Thi r r o u l for s u p p e r . T h e s y s t e m was t h r e e - p h a s e w i t h 60 c a n d l e - p o w e r lights in the m a i n s t r e e t s and 40 c a n d l e p o w e r in the side st re e t s . At the c e r e m o n y the M a y o r of W o l l o n g o n g f o e s h a d o w e d a m a l g a m a t i o n of local g o v e r n i n g b o d i e s in I l l a w a r r a , g i v i n g b e t t e r s e r v i c e to r a t e p a y e r s , r e d u c i n g a d m i n i s t r a t i v e c os ts and p r o v i d i n g u p - t o - d a t e m a c h i n e r y for c o n s t r u c t i o n work. E x t e n s i o n of e l e c t r i c i t y to C l i f t o n was s w i t c h e d on at A u s t i n m e r in June 1914 b y Mrs J a m e s D a v i d s o n , w i f e of the shire p r e s i d e n t . A p r o c e s s i o n f rom A u s t i n m e r to C l i f t o n f o l l o w e d and a b anq u e t was held. Supply was extended to H e l e n s b u r g h , the c e r e m o n y of e r e c t i n g the fi rst p o l e in J u l y 1924 b e i n g followed by a banquet attended b y shire councillors and c iti z e n s . E l e c t r i c i t y was s w i t c h e d on t h e r e in J u l y 1925 b y M r s F r e e m a n , w i f e of the e l e c t r i c a l e n g i n e e r on B u l l i S h i r e C o u n c i l and a b a n q u e t f o l l o w e d at the E m p r e s s The atr e. The B u lli S h i r e c h a r g e of 5d per u n i t and 2?d for p o w e r c o m p a r e d f a v o u r a b l y w i t h o t h e r shires in 1926. Otford secured electricity in 1945. H e l e n s b u r g h c o n t i n u e d to d e v e l o p and the W o r k m e n ' s C l u b s p o n s o r e d the i n a u g u r a l s h o w and e x h i b i t i o n h e l d in the P a r a g o n T h e a t r e on 3 J u l y 1915 and the e i s t e d d f o d in 1916. T h e b a n d r o o m was b u i l t in 1915 at a c o s t of £200 and e x t e n d e d in 1924. T h e b a n d was f i r s t e s t a b l i s h e d in 1897. T he E m p r e s s T h e a t r e , later the E m p i r e , was b uilt of b r i c k in P a r k e s S t r e e t near W a l k e r S t r e e t in the e a r l y t w e n t i e s . The C e n t e n n i a l P i c t u r e H a l l and P a r a g o n H a l l w e r e b o t h b u r n t d o w n in 1922 and w e r e not r e p l a c e d . The P a r e n t s and Citizens' A s s o c i a t i o n was form e d in A u g u s t 1907 w i t h Rev J M a c a u l e y as p r e s i d e n t . A l t e r a t i o n s and a d d i t i o n s c o s t i n g £ 950 w e r e made to the s c h o o l in 1912. In 1909 T h o m a s H o r a n w h o h a d b e e n p o s t m a s t e r for 22 y e a r s m o v e d to W o o n o n a as p o s t m a s t e r and s u b s e q u e n t l y s e c u r e d a seat on B u l l i S h i r e C o u n c i l w h i c h he w a s o b l i g e d by the P o s t a l D e p a r t m e n t to v a c at e. L i n k s w i t h S c o t l a n d w e r e f o r g e d in 1911 w h e n 1000 p e o p l e at H e l e n s b u r g h S c h o o l w i t n e s s e d the u n f u r l i n g of three flags b r o u g h t f r o m the s c h o o l at H e l e n s b u r g h , S c o t l a n d , b y S i r W i l l i a m M c M i l l a n in r e t u r n for the A u s t r a l i a n flags sent in g r e e t i n g . H e l e n s b u r g h , S c o t l a n d , is a c o a s t a l t o w n w i t h st a t i o n , q u a y and pier on the n o r t h shore of the F i r t h of C l y d e at the e n t r a n c e to G a r e L o c h o p p o s i t e G r e e n o c k , 24 m i l e s n o r t h - w e s t of G l a s g o w in Dumbartonshire.

T h e d e v e l o p m e n t of B u l l i b r o u g h t the i n s t a l l a t i o n in 1912 of e l e c t r i c i t y b y its p r o g r e s s i v e c o u n c i l , supply being obtained f r o m the S o u t h B ul li C o l l i e r y and wa s laid a l o n g the m a i n road f r o m B e l l a m b i coa l t r a m l i n e to Austinmer. F r o m the e a r l i e s t times the d i s t r i c t had b e e n lit b o t h in h o m e s and b u s i n e s s an d p u b l i c p l a c e s b y oil lamps and c a n d l e s , u n t i l in 1900 a c e t y l e n e gas was i n t r o d u c e d in shops and halls, t h o u g h h ome s r e l i e d on k e r o s e n e lamps u ntil the i n t r o d u c t i o n of e l e c t r i c i t y . On the f irst s e c ti on to be lig h t e d e l e c t r i c i t y w a s s w i t c h e d on b y the B u l l i S h i r e P r e s i d e n t , Cr J S K i r t o n at 6 . 3 0 p m o n 3 J u n e 1913 at B e l l a m b i . A

Th e H e l e n s b u r g h and L L l y v a l e W o r k m e n ' s S o c i a l and L i t e r a r y C l u b c o n t i n u e d its a c t i v i t i e s and r e p l a c e d its o r i g i n a l b u i l d i n g w i t h a w e l l - a p p o i n t e d b r i c k b u i l d i n g o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d on S a t u r d a y 7 N o v e m b e r 1925 b y J o h n C u t h b e r t , one of the first t r u s t e e s . It c o n t a i n e d bar, k i t c h e n a m e n i t i e s , b i l l i a r d room, library, a s s e m b l y r o o m and c o s t £4700. The M a s o n i c T e m p l e wa s b u i l t in b r i c k in R o b e r t s o n S t r e e t in 1929. The f o u n d a t i o n s t o n e was laid b y J o h n G o u l s t o n on 27 A p r i l . It s t a n d s o p p o s i t e the t i m b e r P r e s b y t e r i a n C h u r c h . The Masonic Lodge Helensburgh had been form e d on 2 O c t o b e r 1925 and f i r s t m e t in the b a n d hall.

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T h e H e l e n s b u r g h m i n e r s , w h o h ad k n o w n c o - o p e r a t i v e stores b a c k in S c o t l a n d f o r m e d a c o - o p e r a t i v e s t o r e in 1892, r e n t i n g a small c o t t a g e in W a l k e ^ S t r e e t and l a t e r l a r ger pre m i s e s at the c o r n e r of S t u a r t and Lilyvaie S t r e e t s w h e r e t h e y c o n d u c t e d a g e n e r a l store. The p r e m i s e s w e r e b u r n t d o w n in 1906 at a b o u t the time the N o r t h H e l e n s b u r g h b r a n c h s t o r e w a s opened Th e s o c i e t y th en r e n t e d and later p u r c h a s e d the b u i l d i n g in W a l k e r Street

which 1956.

was

replaced

by

a modern brick

store

officially opened

on

9 JUne

Industry in Helensburgh features Helensburgh Manufacturing Company e s t a b l i s h e d in J u n e 1945 u n d e r s p o n s o r s h i p of the G o v e r n m e n t , w h i c h w i t h 70 e m p l o y e e s p r o d u c e s m a n y types of cl ot h i n g , s o m e o f w h i c h is u s e d to fill government contracts. A n o t h e r f irm m a n u f a c t u r e s h a n d k e r c h i e f s . At the s o u t h e r n e n d o f B ul li S hi re g r e w R u s s e l l V a l e n e a r the c o a l line w i t h a c l u s t e r o f r e s i d e n c e s on the land f o r m e r l y h e l d b y its e a r l i e s t s e t t l e r s M a c C a b e a n d M i c h a e l Cawley, w h o t o o k up land t he re a b o u t 1850. R u s s e l l V a l e was the s tate of M acC a b e , one of w h o s e sons, R u s s e l l , died from an accident. T h e t w o - s t o r e y b u i l d i n g " R u s s e l l V a l e " ha d the c o a t of arms of the f a m i l y on a w i n d o w o v e r the s t a i r w a y . The C a w l e y P a r k of 5i a cr es g i v e n b y J o h n C a w l e y of K e e r o n g n e a r L i s m o r e was o p e n e d by J F S w e e n e y M L A o n S a t u r d a y 1 J u n e 1940 as a cri cke t, f o o t b a l l and recreation ground. T h e lev e l l i n g and f e n c i n g w e r e c a r r i e d out b y Bulli Shire C o u n c i l at a c o s t of £1600, a s s i s t e d b y a g o v e r n m e n t grant. H e a l t h an d r e c r e a t i o n a l fa ci l i t i e s t h r o u g h o u t the s h i r e w e r e s u p p l e m e n t e d by improved hospitals. T h e g r o w t h o f S c a r b o r o u g h a n d C o l e d a l e b r o u g h t the d e m a n d for a h o s p i t a l n o r t h of Bulli. Dr D i x o n o f B u l l i d o n a t e d p o r t i o n of the B l u f f and L i n b r i d g e E s t a t e s on the m a i n r o a d n o r t h of C o l e d a l e in 1910 and Dr C o l l e t o n , s c h o o l m a s t e r and p u b l i c m a n of C l i f t o n , led the p u b l i c m o v e m e n t to e s t a b l i s h a h osp i t a l . The b u i l d i n g , k n o w n as the I l l a w a r r a C o t t a g e H o s p i t a l , was b e g u n in 1915 and o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y G M B u r n s MHR, on S a t u r d a y 17 M a r c h 1917. It was d e s c r i b e d as b e i n g on a bo ld e m i n e n c e on the c o a s t l i n e w i t h a v i e w as far as Port K e m b l a . H M i d g l e y s e r v e d as the first h o n o r a r y s e c r e t a r y . At B u ll i a n e w h o s p i t a l w a r d wa s o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d o n the s o u t h e r n s i d e of the f o rme r b u i l d i n g o n S a t u r d a y 21 M a r c h 1925, i n c r e a s i n g a c c o m m o d a t i o n f r o m e l e v e n to 24 beds. T h e f i n a n c e s h a d b e e n a s s i s t e d from 1901 by c o l l i e r y e m p l o y e e s c o n t r i b u t i n g Id per w e e k a n d f r o m 1923 b y r a i l w a y and c o l l i e r y e m p l o y e e s c o n t r i b u t i n g 4 d per week. T h e i s o l a t i o n b l o c k was o p e n e d b y the M i n i s t e r for H e a l t h in 1934, b r i n g i n g a c c o m m o d a t i o n to 39 beds. X - r a y pl an t s w e r e i n s t a l l e d in 1930 at a cost of £ 140 0 w i t h a s s i s t a n c e of the B e l l a m b i Co al C o m p a n y w h i c h d o n a t e d £1200. T h e p l a n t was o p e n e d b y Sir F r e d e r i c k Waley. T h e h o s p i t a l w a s one of the few w h i c h o r i g i n a l l y i n t r o d u c e d its o w n m o t o r a m b u l a n c e and led the s ta te in the i n t r o d u c t i o n of a w e e k l y c o n t r i b u t i o n s c h e m e w h i c h w a s e v e n t u a l l y a d o p t e d t h r o u g h o u t the cou n t r y . The a c t i v e ladies' a u x i l i a r y r a i s e d a c o n s i d e r a b l e a m o u n t for c o mfo rt s. N e w nurses' q u a r t e r s w e r e o p e n e d b y the M i n i s t e r for H e a l t h o n 2 N o v e m b e r 1935. T h e B u l l i a m b u l a n c e s e r v i c e i n s t i t u t e d in 1925 w a s o p e r a t e d b y a p r i v a t e m o t o r i s t and then c e n t r e d on the h o s p i t a l itse lf. In N o v e m b e r 1934 a

branch station of the Illawarra Ambulance opened at Bulli with an old waggon. A new vehicle was handed over on 11 July 1936 by Superintendent J Brown, officer-in-charge at Wollongong and a new ambulance presented in 1942 by the Illawarra Greyhound Racing Club. In the district which the hospitals served perhaps the greatest tourist attraction is the glorious and sparking surf beaches, the most popular on the south coast. To mid-twentieth century surfers the early rules seem quaint. In 1908 bathing ordinances were brought into force with the growth of surf bathing. They prescribed that all persons over eight years of age must wear neck to knee costume; no male should trespass on the part of the beach reserved for females nor should any female trespass on any part of the beach reserved for men and no person was allowed to use soap in the baths! Rock baths continued to be used, those at Bulli being enlarged in 1916.

Surf clubs soon began to appear, that at Bulli being formed at a meeting at Stokes' Hotel in September 1908 with W Walters president and C Clarke secretary. Thirroul followed soon after and Woonona Club was formed in February 1909 with Cr J Davidson as president, R Champion treasurer and P D Edmondson secretary. Scarborough formed a club in 1914. Austinmer formed its first club in 1909 with T Ainsley president, F H Vernon secretary and A Hines treasurer. In 1914 the club first met as a body separate from the progress association and early in 1919 a club room was built. The clubs were the first of a long succession of clubs formed and re-formed over half a century until the present day. They worked for the safety of the people on the beaches and did patrol duty each surfing season. Surf carnivals became annual features and the swimming prowess of the members and the surf boat races entertained large crowds on carnival days. Surfboats carried apt names and some were named in honour of people or surroundings. Thirroul named its boat Francis Crossle after its doctor supporter in 1938. In 1939 Bulli honoured W H Mitchell as its first life member, to mark his long work for the club at the first function in the new clubrooms. They were erected at a cost of £ 700 given by Bulli Shire Council. Thirroul opened a brick kiosk and dressing sheds, together with an Olympic pool, along the beach front on 16 December 1939. Every summer saw a growing number of tourists and surfers visiting the beaches, improved and supervised by the Bulli Shire Council which spent more, perhaps, than any other on the coast for surfing equipment and facilities. Entertainment changed with the new century and in the early twenties moving picture theatres built included the Royal at Bulli; King's and Palais at Thirroul and the Empress at Helensburgh. The Bulli and Thirroul theatres were operated first by Wollongong Theatres then by Union Theatres but they reverted in 1931. Talking pictures were introduced about that time. Thirroul Palais Theatre closed and passed to the Hardie Rubber Company later for industrial use. In addition to revenue from entertainment and the coal industry the Bulli district had the blackberry harvest which continued from the first years of

78 79 the n e w c en t u r y , p i c k e r s u s i ng b i l l y cans, b u c k e t s and k e r o s e n e tins and d e s p a t c h i n g the h a r v e s t in the e a r l y m o n t h s of the y e a r by e v e r y t r a i n to Syd ney . Pickers received Id per p ou nd and 1907 saw o v e r 120 tons d e s p a t c h e d , v a l u e d at £1120. By that t ime the b l a c k b e r r y b u s h e s had g a i n e d a h o l d from B u l l i to O t f o r d and L i l y v a l e and " B u l l i be rr i e s " w e r e w e l l k n o w n on S y d n e y m a r k e t s . B l a c k b e r r y jam, j e l l y and pies r e m a i n e d c o m m o n t h r o u g h o u t the shire. S y d n e y j a m f a c t o r i e s pr ess ed for s u p p l i e s to 100 tons yearly, g r o w i n g to 200 tons in 1912, v a l u e d at £1800. M a n y p i c k e r s c a m p e d out d u r i n g th e six week s' s e a s o n and in 1910 M r s Mo tt of W o o n o n a h a d the c o n t r a c t . The b l a c k b e r r y i n d u s t r y c o n t i n u e d w i t h W H N e w m a n as b u y e r from C l i f t o n to R o b e r t s o n u n t i l the y e a r s of the S e c o n d W o r l d W a r w h e n the v i n e s b e c a m e s c a r c e r w i t h s t e r n e r a d i c a t i o n m e t h o d s u s e d to e l i m i n a t e th em f r o m the mountainsides. The b l a c k b e r r y trade is sm all today. W a r a t a h p i c k i n g was c o m m o n in the d ays b e f o r e the wil d fl ow e r s w e r e p r o t e c t e d by the law. In 1907 the g r o w i n g of fruit on the m o u n t a i n s l o pes was p r o p o s e d but the p l a n t i n g of o r c h a r d s did not b e c o m e po pul ar. A n e w b r i c k a nd tile c o m p a n y c l e a r e d a site on the s o u t h of C h a r l e s w o r t h ' s Hi 1 in 1907 and P e n d l e b u r y ' s w o r k s at W o o n o n a h a v e c o n t i n u e d to e x p a n d to the p r e s e n t day. In 1907 b r i c k w o r k s w h i c h s t il l o p e r a t e w e r e b u i l t at Bellambi. At T h i r r o u l land b e t w e e n the r a i l w a y and s e a s h o r e on M a c a u l e y E s t a t e w a s o p e n e d up for b r i c k w o r k s in 1919 a nd c o n t i n u e s in o p e r a t i o n . T h e b r i c k i n d u s t r y c o n t r i b u t e d s u p p l i e s of b u i l d i n g m a t e r i a l s u s e d in the d e v e l o p m e n t of the shire. E v e n t u a l l y , a f t e r a l m o s t ha lf a c e n t u r y of d e v e l o p m e n t , the B u l l i S h i r e b e c a m e a s h i n i n g e x a m p l e of s u c c e s s f u l local g o v e r n m e n t a d m i n i s t r a t i o n of a large ar ea s i n g u l a r l y si tu a t e d for the g r e a t e r par t b e t w e e n the m o u n t a i n and the sea on a n a r r o w coa sta l p l a i n u n i q u e in N e w S o ut h Wales. However a n o t h e r age was d a w n i n g in the m i d - t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y and as e a r l y as 1934 p r o p o s a l s had b e e n c o n s i d e r e d for the a m a l g a m a t i o n of the ten local g o v e r n m e n t a rea s on the s o uth co ast b e t w e e n H e l e n s b u r g h and S h o a l h a v e n . The G o v e r n m e n t a p p o i n t e d a c o m m i s s i o n e r to e n q u i r e in to the p r o p o s a l s . His report recommended the a m a l g a m a t i o n of Bulli Shire , North Illawarra M u n i c i p a l i t y , W o l l o n g o n g Cit y and C e n t r a l I l l a w a r r a Shire. B u l l i S h i r e at fi rst f a v o u r e d two a m a l g a m a t e d b o d i e s and t hen t h r e e but the four a r eas w e r e a m a l g a m a t e d b y n o t i c e in the " G o v e r n m e n t G a z e t t e " of 12 S e p t e m b e r 1947 w h i c h b r o u g h t the C i t y of G r e a t e r W o l l o n g o n g into b e in g. Of that c i t y the f o r m e r B u lli Shire w as a large and i m p o r t a n t p a r t and m a d e a n o t e w o r t h y c o n t r i b u t i o n to the d e v e l o p m e n t of the n e w area, e m b r a c i n g one of the g r e a t e s t and mo st imp o r t a n t i n d u s t r i a l a r e a s o f N e w S o u t h Wales.

CHAPTER 7 C I T Y

S A T E L L I T E 1947-1956

Th e n e w g r e a t c ity b y the sea c r e a t e d to e n c o m p a s s the h e a r t of I l l a w a r r a w i t h h i s t o r i c W o l l o n g o n g as its centre, h ad for its n o r t h e r n g a t e w a y a district no less h i s t o r i c w h i c h had o v e r its y e a r s of d e v e l o p m e n t c o n t r i b u t e d its w e a l t h and labour to the c i t y ' s g r o w t h and p r o s p e r i t y . The m o u n t a i n s and b e a c h e s w e r e a l r e a d y n oted t o u r i s t r e s o r t s a p p r o a c h e d b y c o m f o r t a b l e rail and r oa d w a y s . The m o u n t a i n s in t h ei r u n s p o i l e d b e a u t y g a v e of t h ei r h i d d e n w e a l t h t h r o u g h t heir m i l e s of m i n es . , ' i If c o n d i t i o n s in the m i n e s wer e step by s tep b e i n g im pro ve d in safety, e f f i c i e n c y and pr od u c t i o n , so too we re the living, s o c i a l and r e c r e a t i o n a l c o n d i t i o n s of the m i n e r s h o use d a long the c o a s t a l fringe an d of the s t e e l w o r k e r s of the r a p i d l y g r o w i n g i nd u s t r i a l c e n t r e of Port K e m b l a for w h o m the n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a b e c a m e a d o r m i t o r y suburb, w h i l s t f a c i l i t i e s for t o u r i s t s a l ong the s e a s h o r e s u b u rbs g r e w to be u n s u r p a s s e d .

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I1

Amalgamation brought increased c ivic services both centralised and d e c e n t r a l i s e d u n d e r the a d m i n i s t r a t i o n of the G r e a t e r W o l l o n g o n g C i t y Council. The c i t y was d i v i d e d into 15 w a r d s a nd a f t e r a p e r i o d of r e o r g a n i s a t i o n was s u b d i v i d e d into three zones, of w h i c h the f o r m e r B u lli S h i r e a r e a b e c a m e the n o r t h e r n zone w i t h n i n e a l d e r m e n , a zone c l e r k and o t h e r a d m i n i s t r a t i v e o f f i c e r s and c l e r i c a l s t a f f c e n t r e d on the f o r mer B ull i S h i r e C o u n c i l C ha mbe rs. The f o r m e r B ul li Shire Clerk, W H M i t c h e l l , a f t e r a n o t e w o r t h y t erm of m a n y years' s e r v i c e to the c o u n c i l b e c a m e the first c l e r k of the C it y of G r e a t e r W o l l o n g o n g w h i l s t R Sheppar d, w h o had e n t e r e d the s e r v i c e of B u l l i S h i re C o u n c i l in 1910, b e c a m e its a s s i s t a n t shire c l e r k and s e r ved as s h i r e c l e r k d u r i n g b o t h First and Se co n d W o r l d Wa r p e r i o d s , b e c a m e c l e r k of the n o r t h e r n zone. A r t e r i a l h i g h w a y s and m a i n roads t h r o u g h the l e n g t h of the s hi re had b e e n b i t u m e n s u r f a c e d 22 feet w i d e b y the D e p a r t m e n t of M a i n R o ads w h i l s t m a n y o f f s h o o t s , ke rbe d, g u t t e r e d and b i t u m e n s u r f a c e d , w e r e s c a t t e r e d a l o n g the c o a s t a l strip. E l e c t r i c i t y s e r v i c e s pas s e d to the G r e a t e r Cit y w h i c h was linked w i t h p owe r s u p p l i e s at Port K e m b l a and the i n t e r - c o n n e c t e d ser v i c e of N e w S o u t h Wale s. W a t e r s u p p l i e s w e r e a d m i n i s t e r e d b y the M e t r o p o l i t a n Wate r, S e w e r a g e and D r a i n a g e Board. Parks and b e a c h d e v e l o p m e n t had r e a c h e d v a r i o u s stages in d i f f e r e n t c e n t r e s and d r e w tour ist s, surfers, ca m p e r s and local res ide nt s. A m a j o r facto r in e n c o u r a g i n g the d e v e l o p m e n t of the d i s t r i c t was the c o n s t i t u t i o n of the J o i n t Coal Board, f i n a n c e d b y a levy on ea ch ton of coal p rod u c e d , to p r o v i d e m o n e t a r y a s s i s t a n c e in the e d u c a t i o n a l , social and r e c r e a t i o n a l f a c i l i t i e s a v a i l a b l e to t h o se e n g a g e d in the coal m i n i n g i n d u s t r y and i n d i r e c t l y to the c i t i z e n s of an d v i s i t o r s to the dis t r i c t . A s s i s t a n c e was g i v e n from its w e l f a r e funds for the c o n s t r u c t i o n of parks, p l a y i n g areas, r e c r e a t i o n a r e a s and spor ts g r o u n d s in all c e n t r e s . The

80 81 i n s t a l l a t i o n of the w a t e r s u p p l y at H e l e n s b u r g h was a lso a s s i s t e d , w h i l s t the J o i n t Coal B o ar d p l ay ed a m a j o r part in f u r t h e r i n g the p u b l i c l i b r a r y f a c i l i t i e s in the d i s t r i c t . It p r o v i d e d c a r a v a n l i b r a r y t r a n s p o r t so that l i b r a r i e s c o u l d m o v e fr om c e n t r e to centre. At B u lli a b r a n c h of the W o l l o n g o n g C i t y C o u n c i l l ibr a r y was i n s t a l l e d in the C o u n c i l C h a m b e r s and wa s o p e n e d by K A Ca me r o n , c h a i r m a n of the J o i nt Coal Board, in S e p t e m b e r 1948. A n a c t i v e force in d e v e l o p i n g good f e l l o w s h i p and social s e r v i c e in the B u l l i d i s t r i c t is the Bulli R o t a r y C lub formed in A u g u s t 1948 u n d e r the s p o n s o r s h i p of W o l l o n g o n g R o t a r y Club. The c h a r t e r was p r e s e n t e d on 18 D e c e m b e r 1948 in the W o o n o n a R SL Hall at a d i n n e r p r e p a r e d b y the RSL La d ies ' A u x i l i a r y , a f t e r w h i c h the club m e t w e e k ly. The f i r st p r e s i d e n t w a s H B C a m p b e l l and s e c r e t a r y R V M c I n t o s h . A m o n g its c o m m u n i t y s e r v i c e a c t i v i t i e s h a v e b e e n s u p p o r t for the C r i p p l e d C h i l d r e n ' s A s s o c i a t i o n , f o r m a t i o n of B u l l i S p a s t i c C o u n c i l and a s s i s t a n c e in b u i l d i n g the S c o u t and G u i d e c l u b r o o m s and the B ul li h o s p i t a l laundry. The c l u b p r o v i d e d a r e s u s c i t a t o r for B ul li a m b u l a n c e and m e m b e r s are w o r k i n g i n d i v i d u a l l y in e v e r y s p h ere of p u b l i c and c o m m u n i t y servi ce. The c l u b was o n e of the first to e n t e r t a i n A s i a n u n i v e r s i t y s t u d e n t s in p r i v a t e h o m e s as p a r t of its p o l i c y to f o s ter i n t e r n a t i o n a l u n d e r s t a n d i n g , g o o d w i l l and peac e. Each C h r i s t m a s m o r n i n g m e m b e r s v i s i t C o l e d a l e and B u l l i h o s p i t a l s and g i v e e a c h p a t i e n t a p r e s e n t w h i l s t L e g a c y c h i l d r e n are e n t e r t a i n e d at a C h r i s t m a s party The g r o w t h of I l l a w a r r a as a s e l f - c o n t a i n e d s teel c e n t r e w i t h e v e r —r i s i n g s t e e l p r o d u c t i o n at Po rt K e m b l a in the era a f t e r the S e c o n d W o r l d W a r p l a c e d the coal m a r k e t of the c o a s ta l belt, e x c e p t for H e l e n s b u r g h w h i c h sent its coal to Sydney, at Por t K e m b l a w h i c h u s e d the g r e a t e r p o r t i o n and s h i p p e d some to W h y a l l a in S o u t h A u s t r a l i a . The nee d for c o a s t a l s h i p p i n g from the jetties declined to such a d e g r e e that their use became u n e c o n o m i c a l and they w e r e a b a n d o n e d . C o l l a p s e of the s e a w a r d end o f B u l l i j e t t y in 1943 c a u s e d its final a b a n d o n m e n t a f t e r w h i c h it s o o n b e g a n to b r e a k up. B ell a m b i jetty, w i t h its large iron sh ed w h i c h had b e e n a l a n d m a r k for m a n y year s, wa s o f f e r e d to the A r m y for d e m o l i t i o n but c o l l a p s e d on 19 A u g u s t 1955. T h e need for im pr o v e d r a i l w a y f a c i l i t i e s to s e r v e the g r o w i n g s o u t h e r n i n d u s t r i a l c e n t r e led c o u n c i l s fro m S u t h e r l a n d to P o r t K e m b l a in 1 945 to u r g e the R a i l w a y C o m m i s s i o n e r s to e l e c t r i f y the rai lw ay. In 1948 an e l e c t r i f i c a t i o n league wa s forme d to p r e s s its r e p r e s e n t a t i o n s . Meanwhile the S t a t e ' s h e a v i e s t l o c o m oti ve s, the D58 of 227 tons, b e g a n o p e r a t i n g b e t w e e n S y d n e y and T h i r r o u l on h e a v y s t eel and coa l t r a i n s in 1950 a l t h o u g h D57s of almos t the s a m e w e i g h t had o p e r a t e d d u r i n g the p r e v i o u s 20 y e a r s . T h e y e a r 1950, h ow eve r, w i t h its t o r r e n t i a l r ai ns s a w t r e m e n d o u s d a m a g e to the r a i l w a y t r a c k and r e d u c e d it w i t h l a n d s l i d e s and o o z e to a s i n g l e t r a c k b e t w e e n T h i r r o u l and S c a r b o r o u g h . In the same a r e a h o me s t ilted, w e r e c r a c k e d and w r e c k e d on the m o u n t a i n s i d e s . T h e p o t e n t i a l d a n g e r to the r a i l w a y at Clifton, c o m b i n e d w i t h e v e r - i n c r e a s i n g g o o d s tr affic, i n c r e a s e d the need for the c o n s t r u c t i o n of a n e w d o u b l e - l i n e tunnel w i t h a r o c k f o u n d a t i o n on the s i n g l e - l i n e s e c t i o n b e t w e e n Coal C l i f f and S c a r b o r o u g h s t a t i o n s , w h i c h had not b e e n d u p l i c a t e d in 1920.

P l a n s w e r e m a d e for a tunnel 1? m i l e s long to be b u ilt at a cost of £3 m i l l i o n ab out 1958 to r e p l a c e the 46 c h a i n tunn el in use s ince 1888 and the s p o n g y r a i l w a y t rack w h i c h sk ir t e d the m o u n t a i n s i d e and w as s u b j e c t to l a n d s l i p s fr om the day of its c o n s t r u c t i o n . It was e x a m i n e d b y the M i n i s t e r for R a i l w a y s and R a i l w a y C o m m i s s i o n e r W i n s o r in 1955, just as it had b e e n b y E n g i n e e r W h i t t o n in 1888. F r o m the time of its o p e n i n g that s e c t i o n of r a i l w a y w h e r e the m o u n t a i n top is b a r e l y a q u a r t e r of a m i l e f r o m the s e a s h o r e has a l wa ys c a u s e d concern. T h e r e s t o r a t i o n of dou b l e line w o r k i n g in 1950 t o o k n in e m o n t h s and cost £100,000. The A l c o d i e s e l e l e c t r i c l o c o m o t i v e s n e w l y i n s t a l l e d on the r a i l w a y s b e g a n r u n n i n g b e t w e e n S y d n e y and T h i r r o u l in 1952. T h e i r adve nt t h r e a t e n e d to c h a n g e all plans for o v e r h e a d w i r e e l e c t r i f i c a t i o n . They s h o w e d a c a p a c i t y for h a u l i n g g r e a t e r l o ads m o r e s p e e d i l y t h a n s t e a m l o c o m o t i v e s , than w h i c h they are c o n s i d e r a b l y l i g h t e r and r e q u i r e less m a i n t e n a n c e and t r ack a t ten ti on. The old c o a s t a l m a i n road b e t w e e n H e l e n s b u r g h and the foot of B u l l i Pass w a s n a m e d L a w r e n c e H a r g r a v e Drive. T h e P r i n c e ' s H i g h w a y b e t w e e n B ul li and W o l l o n g o n g r e a c h e d tr af fic s a t u r a t i o n p o int in p o s t - w a r years. The c i t y c o u n c i l p r o v i d e d b i t u m e n sides fro m the b i t u m e n c e n t r e to the k e r b s in the to wn c e n t r e s in the e a r l y fifties and the M a i n R o a d s D e p a r t m e n t p l a n n e d a n e w h i g h w a y 100 feet wid e b e t w e e n the h i g h w a y a n d the m o u n t a i n . In the fi f tie s the h i g h w a y b e g a n c a r r y i n g hu ge and o u t s i z e loads of i n d u s t r i a l e q u i p m e n t p r e f a b r i c a t e d in S y d n e y and A m e r i c a for Por t K embla. As w i t h the ra ilw ay , so was the road d a m a g e d b y the 1950 rains. A r o u n d the c l i f f s at C l i f t o n it s ubs i d e d in m a n y p l a c e s and w a s e n t i r e l y w i p e d out on the h i l l n o r t h of the vil l a g e . F a l l i n g s t o n e s for w h i c h the s e c t i o n was a l w a y s noted, p r o v i d e d a r e g u l a r h a z a r d at the t ime a f t e r the r oad was r e b u i l t u n t i l the c oa st d r i e d out. In 1 95 4 the c o n s t r u c t i o n of a sceni c s e a s i d e d r i v e from T h i r r o u l to W o l l o n g o n g i n s t e a d of a t h r o u g h h i g h w a y was p r o p o s e d . The s c h e m e was first m o o t e d in 1935 by B u l l i S h i r e C o u n c i l and the s h i r e c l e r k W H M i t c h e l l . It was p r e s s e d a g a i n in 1939 w h e n the w a r p r e v e n t e d a n y f u r t her p r o g r e s s w i t h the p l a n w h i c h is still b e i n g c o n s i d e r e d . The en d of the S e co nd W o r l d W a r in 1945 b r o u g h t the ne ed for p r o v i d i n g the h o m e s w h i c h w o u l d n o r m a l l y h ave b e e n b u i l t in the w a r y e a r s and als o to provide for a projected migration programme to b u i l d the national population. The p r o j e c t e d g r o w t h of i n d u s t r y at P o r t K e m b l a and the r i s i n g c o m m e r c i a l i m p o r t a n c e of W o l l o n g o n g , c o m b i n e d w i t h the d e v e l o p m e n t of the m i n e s at Bulli, fo cu s e d the nee d for b u i l d i n g n e w h o m e s a l o n g the n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a coast. T h e first ser ies of 1000 h o m e s for the C o m m o n w e a l t h of A u s t r a l i a was b e g u n in 1944. N e w S o u t h W a l e s was a l l o c a t e d 4 7 8 u n d e r the C o m m o n w e a l t h - S t a t e H o u s i n g plan and the N e w S o u t h W a l e s H o u s i n g C o m m i s s i o n , for m e d at the time, i n s p e c t e d sites at B ul li w h e r e the s h i r e p o p u l a t i o n was 16, 2 3 0 l i v ing in 3 0 0 0 d w e l l i n g s . B ulli C o u n c i l p r e s s e d for the e r e c t i o n of h o m e s w i t h i n its t e r r i t o r y . The first g r o u p of c o m m i s s i o n h o u s e s w e r e b ui lt in F a r r e l l Ro ad b e t w e e n the r a i l w a y and the se a in 1949, f o l l o w e d by w h o l e s u b u r b s at

82 83

W o o n o n a s t a t i o n , S a n d o n P o i nt B u l l i and H e l e n s b u r g h . More and more private h o m e s w e r e b u i l t at the sam e time and the r e s i d e n t i a l a r e a h a s b e g u n to m o v e up the m o u n t a i n s i d e s and to o c c u p y a large p o r t i o n of the c o a s t a l piain. P r o v i s i o n of h o u s i n g m a t e r i a l s b r o u g h t a b o u t the o p e n i n g o f the B u l l i B r i c k and T i l e C o m p a n y w o r k s and pit on g r o u n d s o u t h of S l a c k y Fl at in 1948 at "Woods' Farm" paddock. A h i l l s i d e is b e i n g r e m o v e d in s u p p l e m e n t i n g the b r i c k s u p p l i e s o f P e n d e l b u r y ' s at W o o n o n a , a u g m e n t e d by N e w b o l d ' s at T h i r r o u l and the I l l a w a r r a B r i c k and F i r e c l a y C o m p a n y at B e l l a m b i . The g r o w i n g p o p u l a t i o n of the p o s t - w a r y e ar s in n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a b r o u g h t the nee d for increased educational facilities. During the p r e v i o u s t h r e e - q u a r t e r c e n t u r y p r i m a r y sch oo ls h ad b e e n d o t t e d a l o n g the m a i n roa d of the c o a s t a l s t r i p at S c a r b o r o u g h , C o l e d a l e , A u s t i n m e r and B u l l i , w i t h W o o n o n a not far r e m o v e d and T h i r r o u l on the h i l l s i d e . Growing arterial m o t o r t r a f f i c b r o u g h t to the c h i l d r e n c r o s s i n g the h i g h w a y s d a n g e r s u n k n o w n a n d u n f o r e s e e n b y the p e o p l e o f the f o r m e r cen tu ry. D e c e n t r a l i s a t i o n of e d u c a t i o n saw the a p p o i n t m e n t of F r a n k C o w b u r n B Ec as D i r e c t o r of E d u c a t i o n S o u t h e r n A r e a w i t h h e a d q u a r t e r s at W o l l o n g o n g . His i m p l e m e n t a t i o n o f a n e w p o l i c y of a scho ol e v e r y m il e, w i t h s c h o o l s p l a c e d a w a y f r o m the h i g h w a y s on sites s e l e c t e d for s u i t a b i l i t y for e d u c a t i o n , p l a c e s an e m p h a s i s o n the p h y s i c a l d e v e l o p m e n t o f the c h i l d o v e r l o o k e d b y the o r i g i n a t o r s of the s y s t e m d u r i n g the c e n t u r y bef or e. The n e w s c h o o l s b u i l t in 1955 on the c h a n g e d p r i n c i p l e o p e r a t e in the d i s t r i c t - W a n i o r a at B u l l i E a s t and R u s s e l l Vale. Bo th are t i m b e r b u i l d i n g s of c o n s t r u c t i o n superior to that of the original Bulli school built in 18 69 of w e a t h e r b o a r d , fr om w h i c h the r e s i d e n c e was d i s m a n t l e d in the e a r l y t h i r t i e s a n d w h i c h still p r o v i d e s c l a s s r o o m a c c o m m o d a t i o n s u p p l e m e n t e d b y two a d d i t i o n a l b u i l d i n g s e r e c t e d in the t w e n t i e t h c e n t u r y . S e c o n d a r y e d u c a t i o n c e n t r e d on W o l l o n g o n g u n t i l the end of the S e c o n d W o r l d W a r w h e n th ere was a g r o w i n g d e s i r e by r e s i d e n t s for f a c i l i t i e s in the northern districts. The e a r l i e s t m o v e w a s m a d e at a p u b l i c m e e t i n g at T h i r r o u l in J u n e 1944, f o l l o w e d b y s u g g e s t i o n s for sites at C o r r i m a l , W o o n o n a and Bulli. In r e s p o n s e to an i n v i t a t i o n i s s u e d t h r o u g h B u l l i S h i r e C o u n c i l b y the P r o g r e s s i v e E d u c a t i o n C o m m i t t e e the D i r e c t o r of E d u c a t i o n , J G M a c k e n z i e , i n s p e c t e d sites at T h i r r o u l , B u l l i an d W o o n o n a the same year. A h i g h s c h o o l w a s e s t a b l i s h e d at C o r r i m a l s o o n a f t e r w a r d s , q u i c k l y f i l l e d a n d the B ull i H i g h S c h o o l w a s e s t a b l i s h e d in 1956, u s i n g c l a s s r o o m s at W o l l o n g o n g d u r i n g the c o n s t r u c t i o n o f p r e f a b r i c a t e d a l u m i n i u m b u i l d i n g s at B u l li b e s i d e W a n i o r a schoo l n e a r W a n i o r a P o in t. T h e s c hoo l has s p a c i o u s g r o u n d s and is o p p o s i t e Bulli P a r k w i t h its s p o r t i n g field and c l o s e to the r o c k po ol at W a n i o r a Poi nt , p r o v i d i n g f a c i l i t i e s for p h y s i c a l e d u c a t i o n . T h e h e a l t h needs of B u l l i w e r e a d v a n c e d w h e n the o r i g i n a l B u l l i C o t t a g e H o s p i t a l wa s d e m o l i s h e d in D e c e m b e r 1945 and the f o u n d a t i o n s t o n e of a n e w b u i l d i n g i n c o r p o r a t i n g c h i l d r e n ' s w a r d a n d n u r s e s ' q u a r t e r s w a s laid b y the M i n i s t e r for He al t h , H o n C A Kell y, on S a t u r d a y 16 F e b r u a r y 1946. The n e w s p a p e r s , all d a te d 11 June 1892 and the d o c u m e n t in the b o t t l e u n d e r the f o u n d a t i o n stone w e r e f ou nd in a s t a t e of p r e s e r v a t i o n and w e r e p l a c e d u n d e r the n e w f o u n d a t i o n stone.

T h e p i o n e e r d o c t o r of Bull i , Dr C R Pa l m e r , laid the f o u n d a t i o n s t o n e of the m a t e r n i t y w a r d on 24 A u g u s t the same y e a r and o p e n e d the n e w t w o - s t o r e y e d b r i c k nurses' h o m e e r e c t e d at the s o u t h end of the f o r m e r h o m e at a c o s t of £24,000 in 1951. Dr Pal m e r c o m m e n c e d p r a c t i c e at B u l l i in 1910 and w a s G o v e r n m e n t M e d i c a l O f f i c e r for 45 y e a r s u ntil his r e t i r e m e n t in 1955, w h e n he w as p r e s e n t e d w i t h a t e s t i m o n i a l b y the c i t i z e n s . He d i e d the s a m e year. An a d v a n c e in h o s p i t a l c o n s t r u c t i o n was m a d e w h e n o n 8 N o v e m b e r 1947 the n e w a d d i t i o n s i n c l u d i n g a ir c o n d i t i o n i n g w e r e op e n e d . The new maternity u n i t w as o p e n e d on 9 M a y the f o l l o w i n g year. M o d e r n and p o s t - w a r h e a l t h d e v e l o p m e n t s b r o u g h t the p l a n n i n g of b a b y h e a l t h c e n t r e s at B u l l i , C o l e d a l e a nd H e l e n s b u r g h in 1945, e a c h b e i n g e s t a b l i s h e d s h o r t l y a f t e r w a r d s a n d p r o v i n g an a s set to m o t h e r s and b a b i e s in the d i s t r i c t . Special buildings w e r e e r e c t e d at M a i n Road, C o l e d a l e and L i l y v a l e St r e e t , H e l e n s b u r g h an d Ball's Lane, Woonona. P r o v i s i o n of rest p arks is b e i n g m a d e in the d i s t r i c t . P e n d l e b u r y P a r k at the c o r n e r of G r a y S t r e e t and P r i n c e s ' s H i g h w a y was o p e n e d b y Cr Q u i l k e y , P r e s i d e n t o f Bulli S h i r e Council, in D e c e m b e r 1945. A m e m o r i a l f o u n t a i n to J o s e p h P e n d l e b u r y , w h o a r r i v e d in 1878 and f o u n d e d the s i l i c a b r i c k i n d u s t r y in A u s t r a l i a , p r o v e s an a s s e t at W o o n o n a o p p o s i t e the spot w h e r e the v i l l a g e w as first e s t a b l i s h e d an d a l m o s t o p p o s i t e the b r i c k w o r k s . In W o o n o n a s h o p p i n g c e n t r e the form e r P r i n c e s s T h e a t r e , u s e d for p i c t u r e s c r e e n i n g s in the t w e n t i e s , c o n v e r t e d to m o d e r n s t a n d a r d s in 1922 at a c o s t of £5000, was a g a i n c o n v e r t e d for d a n c i n g to the P a l a i s R e g e n t in 1930. T h e w a r y e a r s s a w its d e m o l i t i o n l e a v i n g o n l y the f a c a d e w h i c h was d i s m a n t l e d in 1956 and the area c o n v e r t e d to a m o d e r n rest p a r k n a m e d S t r a c h a n P a r k in h o n o u r of a local a l d e r m a n . S l a c k y F l a t - h i s t o r i c M a i l b a g H o l l o w of the s e v e n t i e s - wa s p u r c h a s e d b y B u l l i S h i r e C o u n c i l in 1939, c o m p r i s i n g 6 6 i a c r e s at £10 p er acre, w i t h an a d d i t i o n a l si x a cres f r o n t i n g the P r i n c e ' s H i g h w a y for b o w l i n g g r e e n s in 1946. T h e a r e a wa s a w a s t e l a n d of b l a c k b e r r i e s and l a n t a n a w h e n the W o o n o n a - B u l l i W a r t i m e E v a c u a t i o n C o m m i t t e e t r a n s f e r r e d its a c t i v i t i e s to c l e a r i n g an d d e v e l o p i n g it. Work began with week-end working bees using h o r s e - d r a w n i m p l e m e n t s , to be f o l l o w e d l a ter b y b u l l d o z e r s . A galvanised i r o n p a v i l i o n u s e d o r i g i n a l l y for t e s t i n g O w e n g u n s at L y s a g h t ' s P o r t K e m b l a w o r k s wa s b r o u g h t an d e r e c t e d as a p a v i l i o n . A m o d e r n c r i c k e t oval w i t h turf w i c k e t wa s s o o n c o m p l e t e d ; t r o t t i n g and g r e y h o u n d t r a c k s b e i n g i n s t a l l e d w i t h e l e c t r i c lights in 1950. The d e v e l o p m e n t of the b u s h l a n d b a c k i n g on to the m o u n t a i n and the B u lli m i n e is p r o c e e d i n g and the p a r k w i t h its m o d e r n f a c i l i t i e s has b e c o m e k n o w n in o t h e r p arts of the state, g r o w i n g in p o p u l a r i t y and d r a w i n g b i g c r o w d s . The Bulli Bowling Club was f o r m e d in 1950 and the p r e p a r a t i o n of the f i r s t g r e e n at S l a c k y Flat w a s p r e s s e d a h e a d and o p e n e d for p l a y the f o l l o w i n g y e a r . The B u l li S h o w S ociety, k n o w n as N o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a A g r i c u l t u r a l and H o r t i c u l t u r a l S oc iet y, w as form ed in 1952 w i t h A l d e r m a n L S t r a c h a n as president. It b e c a m e the s u c c e s s o r to W o o n o n a A g r i c u l t u r a l B u r e a u w h i c h h e l d its furst a n n u a l e x h i b i t i o n in J u n e 1917 and c o n t i n u e d a c t i v e l y in the S c h o o l of Ar ts and later in the P r i n c e s s T h e a t r e to the o p e n i n g o f the

84 85 S e c o n d War. B u l l i ' s first annual s h o w was h e l d at S l a c k y F l a t o n 2 and 3 J a n u a r y 1953. A l d e r m e n S t r a c h a n and Sq ui r e s and Mr G o r d o n H u t t o n w e r e c r e d i t e d w i t h th e s u c c e s s of the s h o w w h i c h ha d in do o r and o u t d o o r e x h i b i t i o n s an d e ve n t s , and w h i c h c o n t i n u e d s u c c e s s f u l l y f r o m that time. T h e p i o n e e r w o r k of the e n e r g e t i c c o m m i t t e e w a s r i c h l y r e w a r d e d w h e n in F e b r u a r y 1954 Q u e e n E l i z a b e t h II and the Du ke of E d i n b u r g h v i s i t e d the g r o u n d to r e c e i v e the g r e e t i n g s of the p e o p l e of N o r t h I l l a w a r r a p r i o r to t h e i r d e p a r t u r e f r o m the C i t y of G r e a t e r W o l l o n g o n g b y the R o y a l T r a i n d i e s e l - e l e c t r i c h a u l e d f rom B ulli station. Th e b e a u t i f i c a t i o n o f large r e s e r v e s is b e i n g c a r r i e d out a n d e f f o r t s are b e i n g m a d e to p l a n t I l l a w a r r a F lam e T r ees for w h i c h , w i t h the c a b b a g e tree palm s, the d i s t r i c t was f or me r l y famous. Bulli Council r a i s e d the s e e d l i n g s an d in 1948 two th ou s a n d trees w e r e p l a n t e d b y v o l u n t a r y labour in L a d y F u l l e r P a r k a l o n g the m o u n t a i n s i d e b e t w e e n Bulli Pass a n d Co le d a l e . T h e a d v a n c e s in p r o d u c t i o n r e q u i r i n g the p r o v i s i o n of l arge a n d e x p e n s i v e e q u i p m e n t in p r i n t i n g a n e w s p a p e r c a us ed the r e m o v a l of the " B u l l i T i m es " p r i n t i n g and p u b l i c a t i o n to W o l l o n g o n g . L a t e r the p a p e r was a m a l g a m a t e d w i t h the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " on 3 F e b r u a r y 1949 a f t e r m o r e tha n h a l f a c e n t u r y of p u b l i c a t i o n . T o d a y the i n t e r e s t s of n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a are s e r v e d b y the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " w h i c h b e c a m e a d a i l y on 9 J une 1950 a nd the " S out h C o a s t t i me s" the latter h a v i n g d e v e l o p e d f rom the " I l l a w a r r a B a n n e r " founded in 1863, later a b s o r b e d by the " W o l l o n g o n g A r g u s " and n a m e d " S o u t h C o a s t T i m e s " on 6 J a n u a r y 1900. T h e l a t t e r is a t w i c e - w e e k l y pub 1 icat i o n . T h e c o a s t a l s t r i p b e c a m e the s u b u r b s of W o l l o n g o n g in the fi fti e s , li nk e d b y r e g u l a r t r a i n an d bu s services. Ea ch c e n t r e h as its o w n s h o p p i n g blo c k , its c h u r c h e s and publi c buildings with Wollongong as focal c en t r e . Suburban development continues. A t T h i r r o u l the n e w b r i c k R o m a n C a t h o l i c S c h o o l of St M i c h a e l was bu ilt at a cost of £ 13, 000 . T h e f o u n d a t i o n s t o ne w a s laid b y Rev Dr E r i s O' Bri e n , A u x i l i a r y B i s h o p o f Sydney, on S u n d a y 30 A p r i l 1950. It w a s o p e n e d b y C a r d i n a l N G i l r o y o n S u n d a y 11 F e b r u a r y 1951. The f o u n d a t i o n stone of the n e w b r i c k St D a v i d ' s C h u r c h of E n g l a n d in R o x b o r o u g h A v e n u e was laid by A r c h b i s h o p M o w l l on S a t u r d a y 11 A u g u s t l

r\ c c

T h i r r o u l P u b l i c S c h o o l s u f f e r e d in the r a in s of 1 9 5 0 w h e n the t w o - s t o r e y e d b r i c k library, s e w i n g and two c l a s s r o o m s a t t a c h e d to the east of the o r i g i n a l b u i l d i n g c r a c k e d t h r o u g h land s u b s i d e n c e a n d w e r e d e m o l i s h e d . The s u r f c l u b h o u s e c o s t i n g £ 2 0 , 0 0 0 w a s e r e c t e d in 1954 a n d the w o m e n m a d e sur f h i s t o r y by s t a g i n g the first S o u t h C o a s t w o m e n ' s s u r f c a r n i v a l in 1955 as a s u p p l e m e n t to the r e g u l a r m e n ' s c a r n i v a l s hel d a n n u a l l y on all the b e a c h e s . H e l e n s b u r g h sec ure d its w a t e r s u p p l y in 1951 w h e n the M i n i s t e r for W o r k s and Local G o v e r n m e n t , Hon J J C ahill, o p e n e d the s u p p l y and M r s E C H a r p e r , p i o n e e r r esident, t u r ned on the water. The bowling green was of f i c i a l l y o p e n e d by N o r m a n Noss, p r e s i d e n t of the N e w S o u t h W a l e s B o w l i n g A s s o c i a t i o n o n S u n d a y 13 D e c e m b e r 1953. T h e green , p l a n n e d b y J a m e s F l o y d an d W i l l i a m Sloper, was b u il t on a 4 i acre lease w h i c h i n c l u d e d the f orm e r to wn r u b b i s h tip, w i t h a s s i s t a n c e f r o m the J o i n t C o a l B o a r d a n d the m a n a g e m e n t o f the

M e t r o p o l i t a n Colliery. T h e c l u b h o u s e wa s of s t a i n e d timber. The modern t i m b e r R o m a n Cat ho lic Schoo l in P a r kes Stre et was o p e n e d in 1955. P r o v i s i o n o f tourist h o tel a c c o m m o d a t i o n was m a d e w i t h the c o n s t r u c t i o n of the T h i r r o u l Rex Hotel w i t h a lice nce t r a n s f e r r e d f rom C u r l e w i s . The u l t r a - m o d e r n b u i l d i n g w a s set o f f b y lawns and g a r d e n s and co st £ 160 , 0 0 0 . In 1952 H e a d l a n d s Guest H o u s e at A u s t i n m e r was g r a n t e d the t r a n s f e r of a l i q u o r l i c e n c e from M o o n b i H o t e l o f the old c o a c h i n g days at F a i r h o l m e n e a r Forbes. T h e i n t r o d u c t i o n o f ten o ' c l o c k c l o s i n g in F e b r u a r y 1954 b r o u g h t f u r t h e r c h a n g e s in o l d - e s t a b l i s h e d h o t e l s in the d i s t r i c t , m a n y of w h i c h were renovated. In 1956 the R oyal on the h i l l t o p w h e r e B u ll i and W o o n o n a m e e t w a s a l m o s t rebuilt. T h e i n a u g u r a t i o n of the C i t y of G r e a t e r W o l l o n g o n g too k p l a c e d u r i n g the p e r i o d o f p o s t - w a r r e c o n s t r u c t i o n f o l l o w i n g the S e c o n d W o r l d W a r w h e n t r i b u t e s and m e m o r i a l s to the g a l l a n t s e r v i c e m e n and w o m e n of its n o r t h e r n zon e w e r e b e i n g planned. R e s t r i c t i o n s to c o n s e r v e m a t e r i a l s for h o m e b u i l d i n g p r e v e n t e d m e m o r i a l c o n s t r u c t i o n for the five y e a r s f o l l o w i n g the w a r a n d i n f l a t i o n then c a u s e d d i f f i c u l t y in f i n a n c i n g them. ' 1’ T h e r e t u r n e d soldiers' l e a g u e in the v a r i o u s c e n t r e s c o n c e n t r a t e d on b u i l d i n g c l u b p r e m i s e s as o p p o r t u n i t y al lo wed . At W o o n o n a the first s e c t i o n of the B u i 1 i - W o o n o n a R S L Cl ub was o p e n e d in N i c h o l s o n St re e t n e a r the m a i n r o a d on 27 S e p t e m b e r 1947. T h e C o l e d a l e R S L w a s f o r m e d in 1944 a n d its M e m o r i a l Hall of t i m b e r w i t h b r i c k f a ca de wa s b u i l t in 1948 on the m a i n road. At T h i r r o u l the R S L r e - f o r m e d in 1936, t ook o v e r the f o r m e r S c h o o l o f Arts fr om the E d u c a t i o n D e p a r t m e n t in 1939 an d c l e a r e d the o v e r d r a f t of £1200 by 1943. A n e w t w o - s t o r e y e d f ron t was b u i l t on it at a c o s t of £14,000. The e x t e n s i o n s w e r e o p e n e d b y A S H o s k i n s on S a t u r d a y 28 J a n u a r y 1950. T h e A u s t i n m e r c l u b r o o m of c o n c r e t e a n d b r i c k c o s t i n g £9500, r e p l a c i n g the former w e a t h e r b o a r d b u i l d i n g in M o o r e Street, was o p e n e d b y W Yeo, R S L S ta te P r e s i d e n t ,

in 1953.

P u b l i c h a l l s and m e m o r i a l s c o n t i n u e d to appe ar. A n e w and t h r i v i n g c o m m u n i t y g r e w at R u s s e l l V a l e a f t e r the S e c o n d W o r l d Wa r w i t h an a c t i v e Progress Association. The a s s o c i a t i o n i n s t i t u t e d a local r a t e in 1944 to p a y for the hall w h i c h c o s t £9000, h a l f b e i n g d o n a t e d b y the J o i n t Coal B o a r d W e l f a r e Bund. The b r i c k hal l in K e e r o n g A v e n u e was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y F S C o c h r a n e , c h a i r m a n of the Board, on S a t u r d a y 10 A p r i l 1954, w h e n m e m o r i a l tabl ets w e r e u n v e i l e d to th ose w h o fell in W o r l d War II. A t S c a r b o r o u g h - W o m b a r r a the c o m m u n i t y h a l l o f red bri ck, built with c o n t r i b u t i o n s by the J o i n t Coal B oa rd of £4000, C o u n c i l £3 000 and local r e s i d e n t s £1000, was o p e n e d b y F S C o c h r a n e in D e c e m b e r 1954. It o v e r l o o k s the r o c k pool and w a d i n g p ool a n d forms the p i v o t o f the c o m m u n i t y c ent r e . T h e o l d - e s t a b l i s h e d i n d u s t r i e s of c oa l m i n i n g and b r i c k m a k i n g c o n t i n u e d in the d i s t r i c t and w e r e s u p p l e m e n t e d in 1951 b y the r a y o n m i l l o p e n e d n e a r B u l l i s t a t i o n by J o h n V i c a r s and C o m p a n y , g i v i n g e m p l o y m e n t to 2 0 0 g ir ls a n d b e c o m i n g Bulli S p i n n e r s P t y L t d in 1955. In 1 953 a b e g i n n i n g was m a d e in m i n i n g zirc on, a v i t a l m a t e r i a l for n u c l e a r r ea cto rs ; r u t i l e and i l m eni te, used for m a k i n g h e a t - r e s i s t a n t s t ee l a l l o y s , i n c l u d i n g t i t a n i u m for jet a i r c r a f t parts, f r o m the s a n d s of B u l l i b e ac h.

86

D e s p i t e the a p p e a r a n c e of n e w and m i n o r i n d u s t r i e s in the d i s t r i c t and the trial in e a r l i e r t ime s of a g r i c u l t u r e in a r e l a t i v e l y small way, n o t h i n g s u r p a s s e d or is l i k e l y to s ur p a s s the i m p o r t a n c e of the g r e a t c o a l m i n i n g i n d u s t r y u p o n w h i c h the d i s t r i c t has d e p e n d e d for the past c e n t u r y , a f t e r the e a r l i e r y e a r s o f c a ttl e g r a z i n g and a g r i c u l t u r e , w h a l i n g and t imb e r ge tti ng . In its e a r l i e r years of d e p e n d e n c e on m i n i n g there w e r e t i mes of ha rd s h i p , w h e n the m i n e r s m i g h t o n l y w o r k o ne or two days a w e e k w h e n the w e a t h e r did not p e r m i t lo ad i n g at the j e t t i e s or w h e n i n d u s t r y was d e p r e s s e d and d i d not seek suppli es. A n d t here w a s the time o f the gr eat t r a g e d y w h i c h left its i n e r a d i c a b l e m a r k on the h o m e s of the p e o p l e . Those d a y s forged links of h u m a n k i n d n e s s w h i c h r e s u l t e d in the f o r m a t i o n of the e a r l y b e n e f i t s o c i e t i e s and the trade u n i ons w h i c h s t r o v e to b u i l d for the w o r k e r s w h o c o m p r i s e d the g r e a t e r part of the d i s t r i c t ' s p o p u l a t i o n s e c u r i t y and c e r t a i n t y of i nco m e and f r e e d o m f r o m the fear of w ant. A l o n g the s p a r k l i n g s e a s h o r e rose the t in y m i n e r s ' c o t t a g e s w h i c h c a m e to be r e p l a c e d by d w e l l i n g s e q u i p p e d w i t h w a t e r a n d e l e c t r i c i t y and the a p p l i a n c e s w h i c h w e r e d e v e l o p e d in the e l e c t r i c a l age. A m o n g t h o s e h omes w e r e b u i l t the c i v i c and c o m m e r c i a l c e n t r e s of the v i l l a g e s , w h i c h as time w e n t b y linke d t h e m s e l v e s t o g e t h e r a lo ng the h i g h r o a d and p r o v i d e d a c o n t i n u o u s s e t t l e m e n t a l o n g the c o a s t l i n e b e t w e e n the P a c i f i c O c e a n an d the c o a s t a l m o u n t a i n r a n g e w h i c h tow e r e d a t h o u s a n d feet above. A m i d s t the g rea t b e a u t y s ee n from the w o r l d - f a m e d l ook o u t s a l o n g the m o u n t a i n tops the B u l l i d i s t r i c t , w h i c h b e c a m e the B u l l i Shir e, g a v e place to the n o r t h e r n zo ne of the C i t y of G r e a t e r W o l l o n g o n g . A f t e r n i g h t has f a l l e n the lights of the lower w o r l d s een f r o m the l o o k o u t s s t r e t c h a lo ng the h ig hw a y , r e v e a l i n g e v e n m o r e b r i g h t l y the d e v e l o p m e n t o f a c e n t u r y w h i c h has b r o u g h t life and love and l a u g h t e r f o r m the e a r l i e r a d v e r s i t y of the p i o n e e r s w h o s t r o v e and s u c c e e d e d in b u i l d i n g a c i t y g r e a t and prosperous. A n d w h e n the sun c o m e s up fro m the e a s t e r n h o r i z o n and thr ow s its b e a m s on the f o r e s t - c l a d m o u n t a i n s i d e it r e v e al s the p o r t a l s of the t u n n e l s l e a d i n g d e e p l y i nto the h i d d e n w e a l t h w h i c h e n s u r e s for all time p r o s p e r i t y to the B ul li d i s t r i c t - p ro ud p a r t n e r in the C i t y o f G r e a t e r W o l l o n g o n g .

87

CHAPTER 8 S U B U R B S

BY

T H E

S E A

1956-1970

The o p e n i n g second hal f of the tw en t i e t h c e n t u r y in n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a has b e e n m a r k e d b y s t e a d y d e v e l o p m e n t in home b u i l d i n g , r e c r e a t i o n , c o m m u n i t y s e r v i c e s a n d the m o d e r n i z a t i o n of in dus try and t r a n s p o r t d e s p i t e d r a w b a c k s of b u s h f i r e s w h i c h c u l m i n a t e d in the largest and m o s t d e s t r u c t i v e h o l o c a u s t yet known. M i n i n g as the m a j o r i n d u s t r y of the reg i o n has u n d e r g o n e c h a n g e s to b r i n g m e c h a n i s a t i o n to the pits s c a t t e r e d a lo ng the m o u n t a i n s i d e s . C oal C l i f f m i n e p a s s i n g w e s t w a r d b e n e a t h D ar k e s F o r est r e c e i v e d i m p r o v e d v e n t i l a t i o n w i t h the s i n k i n g t here of a shaft 1500 feet d e e p in 1957. The c o l l i e r y i n s t a l l e d a coal c u t t i n g m a c h i n e of G e r m a n m a k e at a c ost of $ 1 5 0 , 0 0 0 in 1963. It s u p p o r t e d the r o o f as it cut the coal and l o ad ed it on to conveyors. In N o v e m b e r 1964 the same c o l l i e r y i n s t a l l e d a l o n g w a l l m i n i n g u n i t but a b a n d o n e d it the f o l l o w i n g y ear and s t or ed the m a c h i n e r y . Th e c o l l i e r y d r i l l e d at S t a n w e l l Tops to d e t e r m i n e the p o s i t i o n of coal se ams in 1965 and the same yea r se cu r e d four c o n t i n u o u s m i n e r s in p l ace of lo ng w a l l min ing . O r d e r s for the s upp l y of coal to J a p a n b r o u g h t added a c t i v i t y and p r o d u c t i o n of the coal w h i c h was r a i l e d to Port K e m b l a for sh ip m e n t . Ro ad tru cks a l s o c a r r i e d coal to the port. The I l l a w a r r a Coke C o m p a n y ' s w o rks o p e r a t e d at C oal d e s p a t c h e d b y rail and road, o f ten as far as M e l b o u r n e .

Cliff,

cok e

being

Bellambi Colliery modernisation in vo lve d the erection of two large b u i l d i n g s c o s t i n g £ 4 0 0 , 0 0 0 in 1961. It w o n coal o r d e r s for d e l i v e r y to J a p a n and c o n c l u d e d m e c h a n i s a t i o n from p l a ns laid in 1954, co al b e i n g c a r r i e d out on c o n v e y o r b e l t s w h i l s t u n d e r g r o u n d r a i l s of two feet g a u ge w e r e r e p l a c e d b y 3'6", the s t a n d a r d g a u g e a d o p t e d for m i n i n g . A coal w a s h e r y was in st a l l e d as pa rt of the p r o g r a m m e to e n s u r e the bes t q u a l i t y coal b e i n g supplied. M e c h a n i s a t i o n was c o m p l e t e d in 1962. The E x c e l s i o r C o l l i e r y at T h i r r o u l , a fter s e r v i n g m a n y years, f o u nd itse lf r e d u n d a n t a f t e r the p a s s i n g of s t e a m l o c o m o t i v e s on the r a i l w a y s and c l o s e d in 1961. Ap pi n , fo rme r l y a rural v i l l a g e some 35 m i l e s inland, b e g a n to a s s ume i m p o r t a n c e w i t h the i n s t a l l a t i o n of a w a t e r s u p p l y on 23 S e p t e m b e r 1961. W o r k had b e g u n on the d e v e l o p m e n t of m i n i n g the coa l s e a m 1600 feet b e l o w the surface. P r o d u c t i o n b e g a n w i t h 200 tons d a i l y in 1962 w h e n a m o d e r n c o n t i n u o u s m ine r , s h u t t l e car and ten ton ca rs w e r e o p e r a t i n g 1600 feet b e l o w the s u r f a c e and e m p t y i n g on a belt for d e l i v e r y to the sur f a c e . A c o n v e y o r belt line was d r i v e n u n d e r g r o u n d to e n a b l e A p p i n c o a l to be c o n v e y e d u n d e r g r o u n d to K e m e i r a and so b e l o w s u r f a c e all the w a y to Mt K e m b l a for d e l i v e r y to the Port K e m b l a s t e e l w o r k s . L o n g w a l l m i n i n g is b e i n g d e v e lop ed.

88 89

At the B u l l i m i n e an air v e n t i l a t o r was d r i l l e d on Bulli M o u n t a i n to a d e p t h of 1000 feet in 1964. In the same y e a r a small e x p l o s i o n t h re e m i l e s u n d e r g r o u n d w a s set off b y an o x y - a c e t y l e n e t o r c h r e s u l t i n g in b u r n s to a miner. Four h u n d r e d m i n e r s are e m p l o y e d w o r k i n g t h r e e shif ts daily. T h e B u l l i m i n e s u f f e r e d a m a j o r d i s a s t e r on 9 N o v e m b e r 1965 w h e n a fire o c c u r r e d in a s e c t i o n of the mine. T w o h u n d r e d m i n e r s r e a c h e d s a f e t y and on e ma n, B a r r y K e n t , r an t h r o u g h the flames to e s c a p e b a d l y b u r n t bu t th ree f o l l o w i n g w e r e b u r n t to d e a t h w h ils t a no th e r , cut o f f b y the fire, d i e d of s u f f o c a t i o n d u e to lack of fresh air. T h e M i n i s t e r for M i n e s , H o n T L Lewis , f l e w b y h e l i c o p e r from S y d n e y to v i s i t the c o l l i e r y and c a l l ont he r e l a t i v e s o f the de ad m e n w h o s e n a me s w e r e l a t e r i n s c r i b e d on the B u l l i D i s a s t e r M e m o r i a l m o n u m e n t n e a r the B u l l i R a i l w a y Sta tion. T h e m e c h a n i s a t i o n of the M e t r o p o l i t a n C o l l i e r y at H e l e n s b u r g h , t a k e n o v e r b y A u s t r a l i a n I r o n an d Steel Ltd, w a s c o m p l e t e d in 1966 w h i l s t the tow n m a d e c o n s i d e r a b l e p rog res s. T h e c o l l i e r y at W o m b a r r a , k n own as B u l l i M a i n Co l l i e r y , c o n t i n u e d pro duction. T h e B e l l a m b i M i n e R e s c u e S t a t i o n was c o n v e r t e d to b e c o m e the m o s t e f f i c i e n t of its k i n d in the s o u t h e r n h e m i s p h e r e w i t h a £ 4 0 , 0 0 0 p r o g r a m m e of e x t e n s i o n s i n c o r p o r a t i n g ove r s e a s e x p e r i e n c e to p r o v i d e full c o n t i n u o u s t r a i n i n g u n d e r all c o n d i t i o n s . J o h n H a m m o n d was s u p e r i n t e n d e n t of the s e r v i c e at the time. ! The J o i n t Coal B o a r d set up in 1947 in c o n j u n c t i o n w i t h the i n d u s t r y b e n e f i t t e d all w h o w o r k e d in the d i s tri ct, g r a n t s of £2^ m i l l i o n b e i n g m a d e in its first ten y e a r s ov er the four coal m i n i n g d i s t r i c t s of N e w S o u t h W a l es. It h e l p e d the c o n s t r u c t i o n of roads, b a b y h e a l t h c e n t r e s , c o m m u n i t y halls, r e c r e a t i o n a l f a c i li tie s, l i bra rie s and s c h o o l e q u i p m e n t .

r e n o w n e d for p r o d u c t i o n of cold c l i m a t e fruit in its o r c h a r d s w h i l s t small farms e x i s t there. At H e l e n s b u r g h Ron S h e a d ' s n ur sery, o p e n e d on the P r i n c e s H i g h w a y in 1958, has beco me one of the lar ge st in the state, p r o d u c i n g plan ts of all kinds. The old r a i l w a y tunnels , d i s u s e d a f t e r d e v i a t i o n , w e r e g i v e n o ver to m u s h r o o m gro win g, m a k i n g the l a r g e s t m u s h r o o m i n d u s t r y in the s o u t h e r n h em i s p h e r e , e m p l o y i n g 4 8 m e n and c o n t i n u i n g to expand. T u n n e l s at H e l e n s b u r g h and L i l y v a l e h a v e long b e e n p r o d u c i n g w h i l s t in m o r e rec ent y ears the old O t f o r d tun n e l has b e e n d e v e l o p e d b y the in du s t r y . H o w e v e r m a n y y o u n g people l i vin g at H e l e n s b u r g h t rav e l d a i l y to S y d n e y to work. T h e B u l l i s h o w c o n t i n u e d but the d a t e was a l t e r e d f r o m J a n u a r y to D e c e m b e r in 1959. It e x p e r i e n c e d r a i n for e ight c o n s e c u t i v e y e a r s u n t i l the 1962 and 1963 shows w e r e not a ff e c t e d b y rain. L e n W o r t h i n g t o n s e r v e d as s e c r e t a r y of the commi tte e. G r o w i n g t r a ff ic d e n s i t y i n d i c a t e d a tow n p l a n n i n g in the f i f t i e s s e e k ing of B u l l i P ass to W o l l o n g o n g w h i c h P r i n c e s H i g h w a y and the r a i l w a y line

n e e d for a d d i t i o n a l a r t e r i a l road s, an e x p r e s s or m o t o r w a y f r o m the foot has b e e n m a s t e r p l a n n e d b e t w e e n the fr om Bulli. Resumption and clearing

o f the si te has begun. I W o l l o n g o n g C i t y C o u n cil a l s o a d o p t e d a s c h e m e for a f o r e s h o r e ro ad fr om T h i r r o u l to W o l l o n g o n g f o l l o w i n g the r o u t e of the first road t h r o u g h the d i s t r i c t , but not u s i n g the b e a c h e s as the f i r st h o r s e m e n did; and the f o o t h i l l s road f r o m M o u n t O u s l e y a l o n g the m o u n t a i n shelf, c r o s s i n g R i x o n ' s P a s s to the B u l l i Pass a b o v e G r e e n ' s P i n c h w i t h e x t e n s i o n s n o r t h w a r d to B u t t e n s h a w D r i v e l e a d i n g to W o m b a r r a . B u t t e n s h a w Drive was bitumen s u r f a c e d in 1965 bu t the s e c t i o n s o u t h f r o m it is m e r e l y pla nned.

N e w b o l d ' s b r i c k w o r k s w h i c h o pen e d at L i t h g o w in 1908, r e m o v e d to W a r a t a h in 1918 and later to T h i r r o u l , o c c u p i e d 98 a c r e s t h e r e in 1956. M e a n w h i l e in 1934 N e w b o l d s p u r c h a s e d the T h i r r o u l w o r k s of the V u l c a n F i r e b r i c k C o m p a n y a n d ha s d e v e l o p e d a h i g h l y e f f i c i e n t f a c t o r y s u p p l y i n g b r i c k s c a p a b l e of w i t h s t a n d i n g the g r e a t heat of b l ast furna ces .

A link b y the e x i s t i n g r o a d s f ro m B ul li to W o l l o n g o n g , u s i n g Y o r k R o a d from B u l l i to B e l l a m b i and then c r o s s i n g to the e a s t e r n side of the r a i l w a y line, c o n s t r u c t i o n of P i o n e e r R o a d an d o f S q u i r e s W a y f rom the s o u t h end of C a r t e r ' s L ane at F a i r y M e a d o w and the b r i d g e o v e r F a i r y C r e e k r e l i e v e d the P r i n c e s H i g h w a y of m u c h traffic. T h e b r i d g e w a s c o m p l e t e d in J un e 1962 and t r a f f i c flows s t e a d i l y o n the a l t e r n a t i v e r o u t e p e n d i n g the c o n s t r u c t i o n of

T h e w o r k s of the B u l l i B r i c k and Ti le C o m p a n y in 1959 b e c a m e the first w o r k s to be m e c h a n i z e d ont he s out h c o a s t and the f o u r t h in A u s t r a l i a , at a c o s t o f £30,000. F o u r b r i c k f or k-l if t t r u c k s w e r e i n s t a l l e d and u n d e r the m a n a g e m e n t of J W T h o r n e , p r o d u c t i o n was r a i s e d f r o m 2 5 0 , 0 0 0 to 3 5 0 , 0 0 0 b r i c k s per week.

the s e a s h o r e r o u t e in y e a r s to come.

P e n d l e b u r y s and the I l l a w a r r a B r i c k and T i l e C o m p a n y c o n t i n u e d p r o d u c t i o n . The B u l l i S p i n n e r s in U r s u l a Road an d F r a n k l i n A v e n u e b e c a m e the m o s t m o d e r n in A u s t r a l i a , w o r k i n g three s h ift s daily . At H e l e n s b u r g h T h o m a s H e a n e y and Sons' h a n d k e r c h i e f f a c t o r y c l o s e d and A n v i l I n d u s t r i e s P t y Ltd b e g a n the m a n u f a c t u r e of m e n ' s c lot hin g.

Bus s e r v i c e s c o n t i n u e d to s e rv e local n e e d s a l o n g the h i g h w a y and spur r o u t e s d eve l o p e d . E x p r e s s b u se s b e g a n p l y i n g f r o m S t a n w e l l P a r k and C l i f t o n to W o l l o n g o n g in 1959, c o n s i d e r a b l y r e d u c i n g t r a v e l l i n g times. T h e L a w r e n c e H a r g r a v e D r i v e a r o u n d the c l i f f s b e t w e e n C oal C l i f f and C l i f t o n w a s a l w a y s d i f f i c u l t to m a i n t a i n , s t r o n g f e n ces b e i n g b u i l t a b o v e the road to h old b a c k f a l l i n g s h a l e and s t o n e s but n o t h i n g was s t ro ng e n o u g h to w i t h s t a n d the l a rge r o c k s r o l l i n g d o w n a b o v e the site of the f o r m e r C l i f t o n jetty. R a i n y w e a t h e r a l w a y s c a u s e d s l i p p i n g and in M a y 1963 large ro cks b l o c k e d the road. F r o m ti me to t i m e fa ll i n g s t o n e s h a v e d a m a g e d cars.

A g r i c u l t u r a l p r o d u c t i o n has long si nce d i s a p p e a r e d fr om the c o a s t a l p l a i n and d a i r y and g r a z i n g pa ddo c k s are q u i c k l y v a n i s h i n g to g ive w a y to suburban housing development. On the p l a t e a u , h o w e v e r , D a r k e ' s F o r e s t is

B e t w e e n the n a r r o w road p e r c h e d a l o n g the c l i f f s a n d the sea s t r o n g w o o d e n f e n c e s of e a r l i e r times g a v e w a y to c y c l i n e w i r e fences. In the si xt i e s ca rs d r o v e t h r o u g h t hem into the sea, on e d r i v e r b e i n g kil led , w h i l s t a

90 91

truck went miraculous heavy duty the road. in 1968 by

o v e r the c l i f f and fell 125 feet in 1964, the d r i v e r h a v i n g a escape. The c y c l o n e w i r e fences w e r e r e p l a c e d in 1964 w i t h i ron g u a r d s w h i c h are s t r o n g e n o u g h to de fle ct car s b a c k on to W i d e n i n g of the road and r e m o v a l of r o ck s high up was u n d e r t a k e n the D e p a r t m e n t of M a i n Roads.

B e t w e e n S c a r b o r o u g h and C l i f t o n in 1962 a p e d e s t r i a n f o o t p a t h w a s b u i l t b e t w e e n the roa d and the sea and fen ce d b o t h s id es for p r o t e c t i o n of s c h o o l c h i l d r e n as a r e s u l t of r e p r e s e n t a t i o n s m a d e b y Aid R H arg r a v e . However the p a t h c o n t i n u a l l y fell a w a y into the sea and nee d e d c o n s i d e r a b l e maintenance. At L o d d o n R i v e r on the A p p i n R o a d a b ov e the B u l l i m o u n t a i n the s i n g l e lane b r i d g e w h i c h had b e e n the s c ene of m a n y fatal a c c i d e n t s was r e p l a c e d in 1964 by a m o d e r n c o n c r e t e b r i d g e and the ro ad r e - a l i g n e d . The P r i n c e s H i g h w a y w o r k b e t w e e n B ull i Pass and H e l e n s b u r g h s a w the e l i m i n a t i o n of two bad bends n e a r the S t a n w e l l P a r k turn-off, t o g e t h e r w i t h w i d e n i n g and s t r a i g h t e n i n g of the r oad in 1965. W o r k c o n t i n u e s in v a r i o u s p l a c e s f r o m time to time. Coa l t r uc ks w e r e p l a c e d into use for r o a d h a u l a g e and b e g a n d a m a g i n g r o a d s in the sixties.

of

coal

to P o r t

Kembla

B u l li e x p e r i e n c e d the s t r a n g e p h e n o m e n o n of flood s in N o v e m b e r 1961. The m o n s o o n r ai ns sent w a t e r rac i n g a c r o s s the P r i n c e s H i g h w a y on e foot d e e p b e t w e e n the p u b l i c s c h o o l and M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h hi ll and acr o s s S l a c k y Flat, h o l d i n g up v e h i c u l a r tra ff ic in long q u e u e s and m a k i n g f o o t p a t h s i m p a s s a b l e for al mo s t 24 hours. O t he r s e c t i o n s of r o a d t h r o u g h o u t the d i s t r i c t w e r e damaged. F r o m 1963 the b o t t l e n e c k b r i d g e s o v e r W h a r t o n ' s and C o l l i n ' s C r e e k s w e r e r e p l a c e d in c o n c r e t e m a k i n g a full w i d t h road, f o l l o w e d by the w i d e n i n g of two b r i d g e s o v e r S l a c k y C ree k and a d j u s t i n g the c u r v e w i t h a n e w b r i d g e at the foot of B ul li Pass. Th e h i g h w a y was w i d e n e d b e t w e e n B e l l a m b i and W o o n o n a in 1964 to 42 feet and r e - a l i g n e d . At the B e l l a m b i Coal C o m p a n y ' s c r o s s i n g the gates w e r e w i d e n e d to a l l o w four lanes of t r a f f i c o n the P r i n c e s H i g h w a y in 1964. Lanes w e r e p a i n t e d in 1968 f r o m the B u l l i P u b l i c S c h o o l to W o l l o n g o n g , a l l o w i n g t r a f f i c to m o v e fast er. Bulli Pass was r e g a r d e d as a " d e a t h t r ap" b y T h i r r o u l P r o g r e s s A s s o c i a t i o n in 1958. T i m e had b r o u g h t i n c r e a s e d t r a f f i c and w i d e n i n g b e g a n w i t h the r e m o v a l of trees on G r e e n ' s P i n c h for an a d d i t i o n a l c l i m b i n g lane a l o n g the m o u n t a i n s h e l f to the Elbow. In J a n u a r y 1959 a c ar b r a k e f a i l u r e at G r e e n ' s P i n c h r e s u l t e d in 14 b e i n g t a k e n to h o s p i t a l . L a t e r a car a s c e n d i n g c a u ght fire and was d e s t r o y e d . At the lower end of Bulli Pass two l o f t y g u m t r e e s w e r e cut d o w n in 1960 to a l l o w w i d e n i n g to p r o v i d e a c l i m b i n g lane, at the s ame time r e m o v i n g the r e n o w n e d a v e n u e that p r o t e c t e d h o m e s b u r n t d u r i n g the p r e v i o u s hal f c e n t u r y in the h o r s e and b u g g y e r a a g a i n s t r u n a w a y v e h i c l e s in the days of l a rg er motor transport vehicles. The m i d - s i x t i e s s a w tr uc k s r u n n i n g out of c o n t r o l , s c a t t e r i n g t h e i r loads and d i v i n g t h r o u g h s a f e t y fences at G r e e n ' s Pinch, c a u s i n g the D e p a r t m e n t of M a i n R o a d s to c o n s i d e r i n t r o d u c t i o n o f m e a s u r e s to deal w i t h v e h i c l e s d e s c e n d i n g o u t of c o n t r o l .

S t e e l s a f e t y g u a r d s r e p l a c e d the c y c l o n e w i r e f e n c e s on the side fo the u p p e r a r m of the pass in 1965 and were e x t e n d e d in the f o l l o w i n g year. C a r s a nd t r u c k s ran a w a y f r o m G r e e n ' s P i n c h and in s e v e r a l i n s t a n c e s raced a c r o s s th e i n t e r s e c t i o n at the T h i r r o u l t u r n - o f f i n t o the p a d d o c k o p p o s i t e the pass, s o m e t i m e s f i n i s h i n g ups i d e d own, loads s c a t t e r e d a nd d r i v e r s h aving m i r a c u l o u s escapes, a l t h o u g h some d r i v e r s and p a s s e n g e r s w e r e killed. In 1966 a r u n a w a y t r uck left the r o a d on the slig h t c u r v e and s m a s h e d the home of F r a n k B r o w n just up f r o m the P a s s A v e n u e i n t e r s e c t i o n , B r o w n h i m s e l f b e i n g t r a p p e d u n d e r the k i t c h e n c a b i n e t in his ow n home. The g r e a t e s t a c c i d e n t o c c u r r e d w h e n in Ju ne 1968 a s e m i - t r a i l e r l o ad ed w i t h p o t a t o e s r a c e d out of c o n t r o l s mas h i n g cars, three h ome s and k i l l i n g three in the v e h i c l e . The r e s ult was c o n t i n u a l p r o t e s t s b y r e s i d e n t s ag ai n s t t r u cks u s i n g the pass and for s af e t y m e a s u r e s . F l a s h i n g lights w e r e i n s t a l l e d at w a r n i n g s ig ns b e l o w G r e en' s P i n c h an d in A p r i l 1969 c o m p u l s o r y low g e a r was i n t r o d u c e d b y a huge sign e r e c t e d at the top of the pass, a d v i s i n g d r i v e r s that the grad es are 1 in 7, 1 in 6 and 1 in 8 r e s p e c t i v e l y on the t h r e e arms of the descent. The r a i l w a y c o n t i n u e d to serve b o t h p a s s e n g e r an d l a t t e r o r i g i n a t i n g p r i n c i p a l l y at the c o a l m i n e s W o m b a r r a , Coal C l i f f and H e l e n s b u r g h .

f r e i g h t t r a ffic, the at B e l l a m b i , Bulli,

T h e a i r - c o n d i t i o n e d t r a i n for s outh c o a s t l o n g d i s t a n c e s e r v i c e was w i t h d r a w n in S e p t e m b e r 1956 to be used for the S y d n e y - M e l b o u r n e D a y l i g h t Express. S o u t h C o a s t r a i l w a y e l e c t r i f i c a t i o n w a s s o u g h t in p a r l i a m e n t in 1956 a f t e r w h i c h v a r i o u s g r o u p s sou g h t e l e c t r i f i c a t i o n of the line. After full e l e c t r i f i c a t i o n of the Blue M o u n t a i n s r a i l w a y large 38 c l a s s P a c i f i c l o c o m o t i v e s w e r e t r a n s f e r r e d to run r e g u l a r l y b e t w e e n S y d n e y and T h i r r o u l but did not s peed the s e r v i c e due to time t a k e n c h a n g i n g at T h i r r o u l and the s h a r p c u r v e s on the line. In 1958 the S o u t h C o a s t D a y l i g h t E x p r e s s w a s d i e s e l h auled. A new diesel a i r - c o n d i t i o n e d e x p r e s s of s t a i n l e s s s t eel c a r r i a g e s w i t h a b u f f e t m e a l ca r b e g a n o p e r a t i n g on 21 N o v e m b e r 1960, and d r e w g o o d p a t r o n a g e , r u n n i n g W o l l o n g o n g to S u t h e r l a n d n on-stop, o f t e n b e i n g o v e r c r o w d e d . The B u d d d i e s e l a i r - c o n d i t i o n e d four car s t a i n l e s s s t e e l train, b e c o m i n g k n o w n as "The S i l v e r " , e n t e r e d the S y d n e y - W o l l o n g o n g - N o w r a s e r v i c e on 20 M a r c h 1961, r u n n i n g d a i l y on a fast s c h e d u l e as the S o u t h C o a s t D a y l i g h t E x p r e s s . It p r o v e d the f astest t rain e v e r on the I l l a w a r r a line, d o i n g the j o u r n e y b e t w e e n S y d n e y an d W o l l o n g o n g in one h o u r 32 m i n u t e s and had a b u f f e t light r e f r e s h m e n t s e r vice. It a l s o p r o v i d e d an e a r l y m o r n i n g and late a f t e r n o o n b u s i n e s s t r i p b e t w e e n S y d n e y and W o l l o n g o n g . H o w e v e r , p e o p l e of n o r t h I l l a w a r r a w e r e not s a t i s f i e d u n t i l t h eir d e m a n d that it s t o p at T h i r r o u l was met shortly afterwards. However, local trains w e r e the old s t e a m - h a u l e d c a r r i a g e s p l y i n g all s t a t i o n s b e t w e e n Coal C l i f f and Port K e m b l a . D i e s e l i s a t i o n gradually took p l a c e and r e s u l t e d in the c l o s i n g of the T h i r r o u l l o c o m o t i v e d epot and the o p e n i n g o f the n e w one at P o r t K e m b l a in 1967. T h e last s t e a m t r a i n in I l l a w a r r a ran on 20 F e b r u a r y 1967 on the M o s s V a l e - U n a n d e r r a line.

92 93

T h e e l e c t r i f i c a t i o n of the line f rom S y d n e y to C a m p b e l l t o w n r e l e a s e d d i e s e l r a i l c a r sets w h i c h w e r e t r a n s f e r r e d to the I l l a w a r r a line, m a k i n g p o s s i b l e f a s t e r s erv i c e s , a c o m p l e t e new s p e e d y time table b e i n g i n t r o d u c e d in 1968. A f u r t h e r d e v e l o p m e n t in the local t r a i n s e r v i c e s was the i n t r o d u c t i o n in A p r i l 1969 of the " s k i p - s t o p " s y s t e m w h e r e b y some tra in s we nt t h r o u g h the less i m p o r t a n t s t ati ons : all r e c i e v e d an a d e q u a t e s e r v i c e but p a s s e n g e r s f r o m f a r t h e r a w a y had t h ei r t r a v e l l i n g time red uc ed. The increasing loads resulting f rom rapidly developing i n d u s t r i e s sa w s t r e n g t h e n i n g of the r a i l w a y t r ack s in 1962.

P or t

Kembla

Th e first rail s t r i k e since 1917, to p r e s s c l a i m s for £2 per w e e k i n d u s t r y a l l o w a n c e , was h e l d f r o m H e l e n s b u r g h to N o w r a in S e p t e m b e r 1960. One day s t r i k e s c o n t i n u e d p e r i o d i c a l l y , s o m e t i m e s e x t e n d e d to two or t h re e d a y s o v e r the e n s u i n g yea rs. S u b u r b a n p e o p l e d e v i s e d e m e r g e n c y t r a n s p o r t in e f f o r t s to r eac h t heir p l a c e s of e m p l o y m e n t . The commerce of the district continued to be carried on by the o l d - e s t a b l i s h e d b u s i n e s s houses, b a n k s and post o ffi ces . Additional d r i v e - i n m o t o r s e r v i c e and pet rol f i l l i n g s t a t i o n s s e l l i n g one b r a n d p e t r o l w e r e b u i lt, p a r t i c u l a r l y a l on g the P r i n c e s H i g h w a y . No m a j o r c h a i n s t o r e has a p p e a r e d in a n y part of the d i s t r i c t . At H e l e n s b u r g h the L i l y v a l e C o - o p e r a t i v e S o c i e t y o p e n e d a n e w b u i l d i n g c o s t i n g £ 1 0 ,0 00 on the s i t e of the f o r m e r b u i l d i n g in A p r i l 1956 but it c e a s e d o p e r a t i o n s in 1967. H e l e n s b u r g h is the c o m m e r c i a l c e n t r e for Otf o r d , H a r g r a v e H ei gh t s , S t a n w e l l T o p s and D a r k e ' s Fore st. The l a tte r h o w e v e r , d r o p p e d to a p o p u l a t i o n of 32 in 1966 cens us. The H e l e n s b u r g h C h a m b e r of C o m m e r c e was f o r m e d on 8 D e c e m b e r 1967 at a m e e t i n g in the R S L H a l l, a i m i n g b a s i c a l l y to ur ge progressive development of H e l e n s b u r g h commercially, i n d u s t r i a l l y and i n c l u d i n g p r o v i s i o n of a s w i m m i n g pool. T h e p o p u l a t i o n at the 1966 c e n s u s was 2334. A g re at n u m b e r of n e w h o m e s has b e e n e r e c t e d , some i n t e r m i n g l i n g w i t h o t h e r s d a t i n g b a c k to the e a r l y m i n i n g days. The C h a m b e r of C o m m e r c e i n a u g u r a t e d the m o n t h l y H e l e n s b u r g h Ne ws, first r o n e o d and th en p r i n t e d . Its f irst y ear sa w i m p r o v e m e n t of W a l k e r S t r e e t , a s s i s t a n c e to s w i m m i n g po ol funds and g e n e r a l progr ess . C h a n g e s in m e r c h a n d i s i n g m e t h o d s b r o u g h t the end in 1964 of the W o o n o n a , C o r r i m a l and B a l g o w n i e C o - o p e r a t i v e s t o r e s w h e n an i n s t a n d c l o s i n g o r d e r on the a f t e r n o o n of 23 S e p t e m b e r saw the d o o r s c l o s e d on the b u s i n e s s b e c a u s e " b u s i n e s s was fal l i n g a w a y in re ce n t y e a r s " . O n l y C o l e d a l e of the four r e m a i n e d open. W o o n o n a store w a s d e m o l i s h e d and its site t a k e n b y a s e r v i c e s t a t i o n and C h a m b e r of C o m m e r c e c a r park. At B u l l i the area on S l a c k y Flat, o n c e a s p o r t s g r o u n d and then a h o m e a r e a b e t w e e n the h i g h w a y and r a i l w a y w a s a c q u i r e d in 1967 for a W o o l w o r t h c h a i n store. All homes have b e e n r e m o v e d p e n d i n g d e v e l o p m e n t . In c o m m o n w i t h all parts of A u s t r a l i a the d i s t r i c t c h a n g e d o ver to the use of d e c i m a l c u r r e n c y on 14 F e b r u a r y 1966, the n e w d o l l a r b ei ng h a l f o f the p r e v i o u s £ A u s t ra lia n.

T h e c l o s i n g fifties s a w a trend for the b u i l d i n g of homes on the h e i g h t s , n e w e s t a t e s b eing opened. B u t t e n s h a w D r i v e a l o n g the f o o t h i l l s f r o m a b o v e A u s t i n m e r to W o m b a r r a had old houses b ui lt in the e a r l y m i n i n g d a y s but a n e w h o u s i n g d e v e l o p m e n t b e g a n at A u s t i n m e r H e i g h t s in 1958, w h i l s t n e w homes a p p e a r e d a l o n g the drive. At S t a n w e l l Top s on the t a b l e l a n d o v e r l o o k i n g Stanwell Park a d d i t i o n a l h omes a p p e a r e d w h i l s t a b o v e W o o n o n a and a b o v e T h i r r o u l e s t a t e s o pen e d and s a w w h o l e b l o c k s of n e w h ome s erected. New h ome s w e r e a l s o b u ilt among the e a r l i e r h om es on the c o a s t a l plain. t

i

The N e w S ou th W a les H o u s i n g C o m m i s s i o n up to 1968 had c o m p l e t e d 211 c o t t a g e s at Bulli, 301 at W o o n o n a (mai nly at W o o n o n a East ), 117 at B e l l a m b i and 41 at He len sbu rgh . E m e r g e n c y h o u s i n g was e r e c t e d at H e l e n s b u r g h b y the C o m m o n w e a l t h G o v e r n m e n t in the fo rm of N i s s e n Hut s ( c o m m o n l y n i c k n a m e d " i g l o o s " ) of g a l v a n i s e d iron. T h e g o v e r n m e n t p r o p o s e d to sell 42 of them in 1961 but the Wollongong Cit y Cou nc il Health Department and Illawarra Planning A u t h o r i t i e s s t r o n g l y o b j e c t e d to their c o n t i n u e d use and a m o v e w a s m a d e to e l i m i n a t e them. A lm o s t all have n o w bee n r e p l a c e d w i t h m o d e r n c o t t a g e s . T h e a r e a is serv ed b y the C o l e d a l e and h o s p i t a l the n e w d r i v e w a y was o p e ne d as s e r v i c e e f f o r t s b y the B u l l i R o t a r y Club.

Bulli hospitals. R o t a r y A v e n u e as

At C o l e d a l e a r e s u l t of

T h e B u l l i h o s p i t a l o p e n e d its first m a t e r n i t y w a r d o n Mo th e r s ' D a y 1948 and in 1956 the nurses' h o m e was o p ene d with 45 b edr o o m s . The new a d m i n i s t r a t i v e b l o c k in front of the m a i n e n t r a n c e wa s o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d by R e x J a c k s o n M L A in A u g u s t 1957. The h o s p i t a l was g i v e n a h u m i d i c r i b by T o w r a d g i P a r k Ladies' B o w l i n g Cl ub in 1960. Th e c e n t e n a r y of n u r s i n g w as m a r k e d in D e c e m b e r 1960 by the B u ll i H o s p i t a l n u r s e s s t a g i n g a Pag e a n t of N u r s i n g for w h i c h the s c ri pt was c o m p i l e d b y W i l l i a m A B a y l e y FRAHS, B u lli P o l i c e Boys' C lub w a s filled for the c e r e m o n y w h i c h i n c l u d e d the nurses' g r a d u a t i o n . Th e 15 bed female w a r d at B u ll i H o s p i t a l - Sid W e a r n e B l o c k - b u i l t at a cos t of $57 ,00 0, was o p e n e d b y the M i n i s t e r for Healt h, H o n A H J a g o M L A on S u n d a y 16 F e b r u a r y 1969 b r i n g i n g to 101 beds the h o s p i t a l he d e s c r i b e d as one of the best e x a m p l e s of a h o s p i t a l p r e p a r e d to h e l p itself. P r i o r to that the h o s p i t a l X - r a y unit, the m o s t a d v a n c e d in A u s t r a l i a c o s t i n g $ 30, 000 , p r o c e s s i n g the f i l m in 90 s e c o n d s was i n s t a l l e d u n d e r s u p e r v i s i o n of G o r d o n Ryan, the h o s p i t a l r a d i o g r a p h e r . Care of the aged and i n f i r m in the d i s t r i c t was p r o m o t e d b y the p u r c h a s e by the C h u r c h of E n g l a n d c o m m i t t e e of " W o o d l a n d s " , for m e r ho me of A R B e v a n in A l i c e Street at W o o n o n a E a s t for £12,500. R e f i t t e d at a total co st of £ 5 7 , 0 0 0 the h o m e for 30 age d p e o p l e was o p e n e d on S a t u r d a y 27 O c t o b e r 1962 by L a d y H o s k i n s in the p r e s e n c e of 3000 peop le. M a t r o n D o r o t h y G a r n e r was in c harge. For aged and i n f i r m p e o p l e in their o w n h o m e s the M e a l s in n o r t h e r n I l l aw arr a, the first on the s o u t h coast,

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94 95 T h i r r o u l A p e x C l u b u n d e r p r e s i d e n t Dal H u t t o n on 8 J u n e 19 64 w h e n on M o n d a y s to F r i d a y s hot m i d d a y m e a l s p r e p a r e d b y T h i r r o u l L e a g e s c l u b w e r e delivered r e a d y to eat by a r o s t e r e d c o m m i t t e e o f lad y d r i v e r s and helpers. Aid (Mrs) R H a r g r a v e b e c a m e p r e s i d e n t of the c o m m i t t e e . Gordon Ryan was first roster secretary. The se rv i c e c o n t i n u e s w i t h m e a l s p r e p a r e d by B ul li and C o l e d a l e h o s p i t a l s , a n e w d e p a r t u r e s a n c t i o n e d b y the N S W H o s p i t a l s C o m m i s s i o n as a r esu l t of r e p r e s e n t a t i o n s m a d e by the c o m m i t t e e . For r e t i r e d p e o p l e the T h i r r o u Senio r C iti z e n s ' C e n t r e - the first m a j o r c e n t r e of its k i n d o n the s o u t h c oast - was b u i l t b y A u s t i n m e r L i o n s Clu b a s s i s t e d by the J o i n t Coal B oa rd d o n a t i o n of £ 1 0 00 and was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d by the P a s t P r e s i d e n t o f L i o ns I n t e r n a t i o n a l on S a t u r d a y 6 M a y 1961. It was f u l l y e q u i p p e d and furnished. T h e use of a S e e i n g E y e D o g is a c o m m o n sight in the d i s t r i c t w h e n b l i n d e d s o l d i e r Ron C o r d i n w a l k s a b o u t B ulli and W o o n o n a w i t h the d o g p r e s e n t e d to him. Hi s first dog, r e c e i v e d in 1957, u n f o r t u n a t e l y w e n t b l i n d and d i e d in 1964. A n o t h e r w a s s o o n s e c u r e d for h i m b y the e f f o r t s of the W o o n o n a R S L Club. The B u l l i s t a t i o n of the I l l a w a r r a D i s t r i c t A m b u l a n c e s e r v e d the p e o p l e of the d i s t r i c t , J a m e s T o b i n s e r v i n g 17 y ea rs in c h a r g e u n t i l a p p o i n t e d D e p u t y S u p e r i n t e n d e n t at h e a d q u a r t e r s s t a t i o n in W o l l o n g o n g in 1965. He had e a r l i e r o r g a n i z e d the Q u e e n ' s v i s i t to Bulli, wa s a f o u n d a t i o n m e m b e r of B u l l i R o t a r y C l u b in 1948 and p r e s i d e n t in 1952/ 53. He was f o l l o w e d as s t a t i o n o f f i c e r b y E W y n n in 1965 and J O y s t o n in 1968. T h o m a s M e d l y n is r e m e m b e r e d as a w o r k e r for 20 y e a r s for w h i c h he w a s m a d e a life m e m b e r in 1961. A h u m i d i c r i b wa s p r e s e n t e d to the a m b u l a n c e by B u l l i G r e y h o u n d R a c i n g C lub in 1958. At H e l e n s b u r g h a m e e t i n g of c it iz ens , a t t e n d e d b y S w a n n , c h a i r m a n o f the a m b u l a n c e b o ard and Stell, s u p e r i n t e n d e n t - s e c r e t a r y of St G e o r g e - S u t h e r l a n d S h i r e A m b u l a n c e , at the C e n t e n n i a l H ot el on 10 O c t o b e r 1951 d e c i d e d to f orm an a m b u l a n c e c o m m i t t e e . The first p r e s i d e n t was J o h n W a t s o n ; s e c r e t a r y Dr Ian G a r d i n e r an d t r e a s u r e r R G C Floyd. A c o m m i t t e e i n c l u d e d m a n y m e n and S i s t e r Beaum ont , Mrs F i n n e y ( now Mrs Platt ) and M r s C h a d w i c k . The a m b u l a n c e wa s a c q u i r e d and S a m u e l N e l s o n a p p o i n t e d f i rst s t a t i o n o f f i c e r in 1953. The s t a t i o n c o n s i s t s of a h o u s e and g a r a g e on the c o r n e r o f L i l y v a l e S t r e e t and C l u b Lane. It was a b r a n c h of St G e o r g e - S u t h e r land S h i r e A m b u l a n c e from w h i c h N e l s o n came, p r e v i o u s l y b e i n g an a m b u l a n c e o f f i c e r of B l u e M o u n t a i n s D i s t r i c t A m b u l a n c e at K a t o o m b a . The d i s t r i c t i n c l u d e d S t a n w e l l Park, M a d d e n ' s P l a i n s and D a r k e ' s F o r e s t to W a t e r f a l l , t a ki ng p a t i e n t s to h o s p i t a l s at W o l l o n g o n g a n d the m e t r o p o l i t a n a r e a of Sydney. N e l s o n wa s s u c c e e d e d in F e b r u a r y 1 9 6 0 b y F J M o r t o n w h o had b e e n an a m u b u l a n c e m a n at L i t h g o w D i s t r i c t in 1950, t r a n s f e r r i n g to St G e o r g e in 1957. The a m b u l a n c e was a b s o r b e d into C e n t r a l D i s t r i c t A m b u l a n c e o n 10 J a n u a r y 1962. H e l p e r s too n u m e r o u s to m e n t i o n h a v e p l a y e d a part in a s s i s t i n g the a m b u l a n c e work. B a b y H e a l t h C e n tre s w e r e p r o v i d e d in v a r i o u s c e n t r e s in the d i s t r i c t . At H e l e n s b u r g h the Baby H e a l t h C e n t r e was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d on 18 F e b r u a r y 1956 b y the M a y o r of the C i t y of G r e a t e r W o l l o n g o n g , A i d A S q u i r e s at the c o r n e r o f W a l k e r and L i l y v a l e Streets. The b r i c k b u i l d i n g c ost £4000.

W o o n o n a B a b y H e a l t h C e n t r e was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d in w h a t b e c a m e S t r a c h a n P a r k in the s h o p p i n g c e n t r e on 24 N o v e m b e r 1956. It c o s t £9000 a n d wa s b u i l t on the site of the form e r P r i n c e s s T h e a t r e d e m o l i s h e d the p r e v i o u s year. T h e T h i r r o u l B a b y H e a l t h C e n t r e and l i b r a r y b r a n c h b u i l d i n g was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y the M i n i s t e r for H e a l t h , H o n W P S h e a h a n , on S a t u r d a y 21 M a y 1960. It cost £11,000. B e s i d e it the A u s t i n m e r L i ons C l u b b u i l t the S e n i o r Citi z e n s ' Ce n t r e . The c h u r c h e s of the d i s t r i c t saw m a n y c h a n g e s b o t h by r e s t o r a t i o n and improvements. The r e s t o r a t i o n of the B ulli M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h i n t e r i o r was c o m p l e t e d in 1957 w h e n r e p l a c e m e n t of the f i b r o t iled r o o f w i t h c e m e n t t i l e s e m a b l e d the w o r k to be done. T h e m e m o r i a l e l e c t r o n i c c a r i l l o n w as d e d i c a t e d as the first in the d i s t r i c t in m e m o r y of the W e l f o r d f a m i l y in D e c e m b e r 1958. P r i o r to the c e n t e n a r y in 1962 of the o p e n i n g of the first c h u r c h in B u l l i a c o m p l e t e set of pews f r o m a f o r m e r c h u r c h at L i n d f i e l d w a s i n s t a l l e d and the s pire w h i c h fell off in a w i n d s t o r m in 1938 r e p l a c e d b y a c o p p e r s h e a t h e d one of m a t c h i n g design. Th e c e n t e n a r y of o p e n i n g the s t o n e c h u r c h was c e l e b r a t e d in 1965. L o w e r i n g of the P r i n c e s H i g h w a y sa w r e m o v a l o f the i m i t a t i o n s t o n e fence, g r a d i n g d o w n of the g r o u n d s and e r e c t i o n of the n e w low f ence in 1966. In N o v e m b e r 1968 a n e w c h u r c h hall b u i l t in b r i c k w as o p e n e d u s i n g the f o r m e r h a l l as a n e x t e n s i o n . At T h i r r o u l the n e w St D a v i d ' s C h u r c h of E n g l a n d in b r i c k o v e r l o o k i n g the t o w n wa s o p e n e d b y the P r i m a t e , A r c h b i s h o p M o w l l , in M a y 1957. The T h i r r o u l P r e s b y t e r i a n C h u r c h r e c e i v e d a £1 5 , 0 0 0 b e n e f a c t i o n at the e nd of 19 62 a n d in M a y 1963 the f o u n d a t i o n s tone of a n e w c h u r c h of r a r e d e s i g n w a s laid b y the four W e b b s i s t e r s w h o w e r e i n s t r u m e n t a l in b u i l d i n g the T h e W i l l i a m s M e m o r i a l C h u r c h wa s c o m p l e t e d in o r i g i n a l c h u r c h in 1911. b r i c k at a c o s t of £ 22, 0 0 0 and o p e n e d and d e d i c a t e d on S a t u r d a y 7 S e p t e m b e r 1963 at the c o r n e r of L a w r e n c e H a r g r a v e D r i v e and L a c h l a n S t r e e t b y Rev H e c t o r H a r r i s o n of C a n b e r r a . A n g l i c a n c h u r c h m a n H a r o l d S F ry s e r v e d as c h u r c h w a r d e n at St A u g u s t i n e ' s at B u l l i for 4 0 y ears and in o t h e r h i g h o f f i c e s in the ch u r c h . He d i e d aged 8 0 y e a r s in N o v e m b e r 1958. A n o t h e r s t a l w a r t w a s H a m i l t o n G i b s o n o f Bulli; p o s t m a s t e r for m a n y years, lay r e a d e r at St A u g u s t i n e ' s f r o m 1904; S u n d a y S c h o o l s u p e r i n t e n d e n t 25 years; m e m b e r of the B u l l i h o s p i t a l b o a r d fo r 25 y e a r s ; w h o d i e d a g e d 84 in N o v e m b e r 1961. B u l l i C h u r c h of E n g l a n d r e c e i v e d i m p r o v e m e n t s to the w e s t w a l l an d the bell t o w e r was r e b u i l t u s i n g the same b r i c k s , d ue to the c r u m b l i n g of the m o r t a r in 1965. W o o n o n a S a l v a t i o n A r m y H a l l w a s m o v e d f r o m th e m a i n s t r e e t s h o p p i n g b l o c k to H i l l c r e s t A v e n u e and o p e n e d in 19 60 w i t h a b r i c k v e n n e r in f r ont in its n ew position. The Woonona Baptist Church, to a c c o m m o d a t e C h r i s t i a n E d u c a t i o n a n d the a l l - a g e S u n d a y S c h o o l b e g u n in 1961 o p e n e d a t h r e e s t o r e y b r i c k b u i l d i n g c o s t i n g $ 2 7 , 0 0 0 in 1968. N e w c h u r c h h a l l s w e r e b u i l t at the C h u r c h of E n g l a n d , P r e s b y t e r i a n and M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h e s . At Woonona East a C h u r c h of E n g l a n d hall w as opened. At C o l e d a l e the f o u n d a t i o n s t o n e of the n e w M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h H a l l w a s laid b y M r s L D a y w h o a s s i s t e d the c h u r c h for 45 y e a r s . The church was opened

97

o n 25 M a r c h 1961, h a v i n g b e e n f i n a n c e d b y the B u l l i M e t h o d i s t C i r c u i t u n d e r a s t e w a r d s h i p sc he m e . T h e £3000 t i m b e r b u i l d i n g was o p e n e d d u r i n g flood rains. The B e l l a m b i M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h of a p r i c o t brick, b u i l t at the c o r n e r of W a r d e l l and G l a d s t o n e R o a d s r e p l a c i n g a 60 y e a r old t i m b e r c h u r c h , was o p e n e d b y Re v A l a n B r a n d o n 25 M a r c h 1961 in the f l o o d i n g r a in s. The c h u r c h cos t £7500. At W o m b a r r a the n e w R o m a n C a t h o l i c C h u r c h o f O u r L a d y of L o u r d e s r e p l a c e d the s m al l w e a t h e r b o a r d C h u r c h of St P a t r i c k and c o n v e n t s c h o o l o f the S i s t e r s of St J o s e p h , c l o s e d in 1932, b u i l t 80 y e a r s p r e v i o u s l y at C l i f t o n f r o m w h i c h m o s t of the p o p u l a t i o n h a d long s i n c e re mov ed . It w a s b u i l t in brick. The B u s h l a n d C h a p e l o p e n e d as the n e w M e t h o d i s t C h u r c h at H e l e n s b u r g h in 1967 r e p l a c e d the f o r m e r t i mb er church. It w a s a q u a i n t d e p a r t u r e in c h u r c h d e s i g n and b u i l d i n g s u r r o u n d e d b y the u n t o u c h e d trees and scr ub. Its f o u n d a t i o n s t one was laid on 26 N o v e m b e r 1966 and it was c o n s t r u c t e d of c l i n k e r b r i c k s a n d g las s . T h e n e w C h u r c h o f E n g l a n d w a s b u i l t b e s i d e the ha ll u s i n g face b r i c k s w h i l s t the P r e s b y t e r i a n C h u r c h was g i v e n a b r i c k v e n e e r in 1968. In e d u c a t i o n the time had co me for j u b i l e e s an d c e n t e n a r i e s to be celebrated. C o l e d a l e P u b l i c S cho o l c e l e b r a t e d its j u b i l e e in 1962, h a v i n g o p e n e d o n 25 J u n e 1912 w i t h 147 pupils. It r e a c h e d its p e a k e n r o l e m e n t in 1921 w i t h 293 p u p i l s w h e n the old m i n e w a s at its h e i g h t of p r o d u c t i o n . At the j u b i l e e it had 212 p u p i l s and six t eac h e r s . The j u b i l e e of S c a r b o r o u g h P u b l i c S c h o o l , b u i lt to r e p l a c e the C l i f t o n P u b l i c S c h ool o p e n e d in 1878, o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d on 17 J a n u a r y 1914, was c e l e b r a t e d o n 30 N o v e m b e r 1963. T h e d a t e o f o p e n i n g w a s a r e m i n d e r o f the d a y s w h e n s c h o o l s r e - o p e n e d for l e s s o n s in m i d - J a n u a r y . The Scarborough S c h o o l was a m i l e s o u t h of the C l i f t o n S c h o o l w h i c h w a s clos ed . It h a d six c l a s s r o o m s b u t the p o p u l a t i o n w h i c h h a d d r i f t e d s o u t h f r o m C l i f t o n has n o w d r i f t e d s ou th from S c a r b o r o u g h and o n l y t h r e e r o o m s a r e n e e d e d for n o r m a l c l a s s e s , the o t her s s e r v i n g for a d d i t i o n a l f u n c t i o n s s u c h as l ibrary, v e r y n e c e s s a r y in e v e r y school. A u s t i n m e r Publ ic S c h o o l c e l e b r a t e d its c e n t e n a r y in A p r i l 1967 as the first in n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a to r e a c h its h u n d r e d t h a n n i v e r s a r y . A t h r e e day p r o g r a m m e was c a r r i e d o u t a n d a b o o k l e t c o n t a i n i n g the h i s t o r y of the s c h o o l and the t o wn shi p, e d i t e d b y N S K ing , w a s p u b l i s h e d to c o i n c i d e w i t h it. The schoo l g r e w to hav e s ix t e a c h e r s but, as w i t h the c o a s t a l strip, the r o o m for b u i l d i n g o f c o t t a g e s w a s r e s t r i c t e d a n d g r o w t h o f p o p u l a t i o n has not been rapid. H o w e v e r n e w b r i c k c l a s s r o o m s , l i b r a r y and c a n t e e n w e r e b u i l t in the sixties. At B u l li a n e w dual c l a s s r o o m b l o c k b u i l t in t i m b e r at a cost of £ 8 0 0 0 wa s o f f i c i a l l y o p en ed b y H o n R J H e f f r o n , M i n i s t e r for E d u c a t i o n , on F r i d a y 5 D e c e m b e r 1958 b e s i d e the o l d e s t s c h o o l b u i l d i n g n o r t h o f W o l l o n g o n g . The d e v e l o p m e n t of the p l a y g r o u n d fr om the o l d c r e e k b e d s wa s c a r r i e d o u t by the B ulli C o l l i e r y of A u s t r a l i a n Iron and S t ee l Ltd, t o g e t h e r w i t h the

D e p a r t m e n t s of E d u c a t i o n a n d P u b l i c W o r k s to c r e a t e a p a r k - l i k e a r e a s u r r o u n d e d b y h o m e s on the h i l l s i d e s as an a m p h i t h e a t r e , thus r e m o v i n g an e y e s o r e e x i s t i n g f r o m the e a r l i e s t days of the school. T h e M i n i s t e r for E d u c a t i o n , Hon E W e t h e r e l l M L A a p p r o v e d the b u i l d i n g of fi ve c l a s s r o o m s and a d m i n i s t r a t i v e cen t r e at B u lli P u bli c S c h o o l in J a n u a r y 1965 but later lack of f i n a n c e r e s u l t e d in o n l y t hr ee r o o m s b e i n g b u i l t in m o d e r n b r i c k v e n e e r m a k i n g an a t t r a c t i v e a d d i t i o n to the g r o u p of b u i l d i n g s in 1968. In 1969, the y e a r of the s cho o l ' s c ent e n a r y , the D e p a r t m e n t of E d u c a t i o n a c q u i r e d for d e m o l i t i o n the old s h o p an d b a n k b u i l d i n g s d a t i n g f r o m B u l l i ' s e a r l i e s t d a y s w h e n the town and b u s i n e s s c e n t r e was b e s i d e the sch ool . T hu s the s c h o o l b e c a m e a unit b o u n d e d b y the P r i n c e s H i g h w a y , W i l l i a m , H a i g and H o b a r t St reets. T h e c e n t e n a r y of the s c h ool was c e l e b r a t e d in J u l y 1969 w i t h a p r o g r a m m e of a w e e k ' s a c t i v i t i e s - e d u c a t i o n a l , p h y s i c a l and soci al, c o n c l u d i n g w i t h the r e t u r n of p u pil s up to the age of 93 y e a r s at the g r a n d c e l e b r a t i o n one h u n d r e d y e a r s a ft er the s c ho ol o p ene d for lessons. The c e n t e n a r y c l a s s r o o m block wa s officially opened and the original building closed for demolition. At B e l l a m b i the p u b l i c s c h oo l of timber wa s p l a c e d in to u s e at the b e g i n n i n g of the 1956 s c hoo l year. Built at a cost of £ 3 0 , 0 0 0 it w a s o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y the M i n i s t e r for E d u c a t i o n , H o n R J H e f f r o m M L A in M a r c h 1957. The R u s s e l l V ale P u b lic Sc ho o l was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y the M i n i s t e r on 10 M a r c h 1956. T S N a i r n s was the first h e a d m a s t e r . The s c h o o l of timbe r cost £1 4, 000 . A f u r t her two r o o m unit was a d d e d in 1957 and o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y R e x J a c k s o n M L A in N o v e m b e r 1961. T h e schoo l b e c a m e n ot ed in the s i x t i e s for e x c h a n g e v i s i t s for a b o r i g i n a l c h i l d r e n f r o m W r e c k B a y School. Th e old e s t a b l i s h e d W o o n o n a P ubl i c School lost a c l a s s r o o m b l o c k b y fire a n d was r e p l a c e d in 1964 by a b r i c k v e n e e r b l o c k f a c i n g G r a y S t r e e t and c o n t a i n i n g three c l a s s r o o m s , s t o r e and offi ce, o p e n e d b y R e x J a c k s o n M L A o n 30 O c t o b e r 1964. T h r e e fur t h e r c l a s s r o o m s are u n d e r c o n s t r u c t i o n . Housing d e v e l o p m e n t at W o o n o n a E ast, b e t w e e n the r a i l w a y line and the sea, saw the e s t a b l i s h m e n t of the W o o n o n a E a s t P u b l i c S c h o o l , c o m m e n c i n g as a n infants' s c h o o l in 1964 w i t h M i s s S W i l l i a m s as m i s t r e s s - i n - c h a r g e . The sc ho o l b e c a m e a p r i m a r y scho ol in 1968 w h e n N M G a r d i n e r was a p p o i n t e d first headmaster. Th e s c h o o l c o n s i s t e d of a b r i c k un it c o n t a i n i n g t h r e e classrooms. T w o a d d i t i o n a l c l a s s r o o m s w e r e a d d e d in 1967 and one in 1969. A t T h i r r o u l P u b l i c Sch oo l, b u il t on c r e e p i n g g r o u n d , c o n s t a n t v i g i l a n c e was n e c e s s a r y r e g a r d i n g s a f e t y of b u i l d i n g s . In 1965 the infants' b l o c k of two storeyed brick developed cracks causing expense in s t r e n g t h e n i n g the b u i lding. H e l e n s b u r g h P u b l i c S c h o o l of the n i n e t i e s w i t h a two r o o m b l o c k a d d e d in the fifties, w a s s u p p l e m e n t e d w i t h a m o d e r n b r i c k c l a s s r o o m b l o c k in the e a r l y 1960s an d a n o t h e r in 1966. T he e n r o l m e n t n o w st an d s at 4 1 0 p u pil s in two d e p a r t m e n t s w i t h 12 tea c h e r s . S o m e 16,00 0 y a r d s of f i l l i n g h a v e b e e n p l a c e d in the p l a y g r o u n d to p r o v i d e a level p l a y i n g area.

98 99

S e c o n d a r y e d u c a t i o n in B ull i d i s t r i c t is p r o v i d e d b y the B u l l i and W o o n o n a H i g h S cho ol s. T h e B u l l i H i g h School t r a n s f e r r e d to its o w n a l u m i n i u m p r e f a b r i c a t e d b u i l d i n g s s u p p l i e d by the H a w k e r - S i d d e l e y G r o u p at B u l l i in 1957. T h e y w e r e e r e c t e d at a cost of £2 50 , 0 0 0 . A G N e i l was f irst principal. T h e b u i l d i n g s w e r e o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d on F r i d a y 27 S e p t e m b e r 1957 by the M i n i s t e r for Ed uc a t i o n , H on R J H e f f r o n MLA, the e n r o l m e n t at the time b e i n g 5 7 0 p u p i l s w i t h a staff of 26. T h e b r i c k a s s e m b l y ha ll w a s a d d e d in 1963 at a c o s t o f £72,000. T h e r e are n o w 900 p u p i l s w i t h a s t a f f o f 50. A site for a p r o p o s e d h i g h school n o r t h of G e o r g e S t r e e t T h i r r o u l was i n v e s t i g a t e d in 1959 but not a c q u i r e d due to the d i f f i c u l t y of p r o v i d i n g a d e q u a t e f o u n d a t i o n s - a c o n d i t i o n fo und to e x i s t a l o n g the r e m a i n i n g n o r t h e r n c o a s t a l strip . In 1960 the p r o p o s a l was c h a n g e d to a h i g h s c h o o l at W o o n o n a and in 196 4 the scho ol was p l a n n e d to be b u i l t in b r i c k on t h ree levels, s tage b y stage . T h e school o p e n e d in 1965 w i t h an e n r o l m e n t of 420 w i t h a s t a f f of 21. Th e first pri n c i p a l was J W e b s t e r . The e n r o l m e n t n o w s t a n d s at 817 w i t h a s t a f f of 42 and a final s t a g e and a s s e m b l y hall r e m a i n s to be c o n s t r u c t e d . I I n d e p e n d e n t s c h o o l s a l s o e x p a n d e d in the d i s t r i c t . A t the St J o s e p h ' s R o m a n C a t h o l i c C o n v e n t Scho ol at Bulli f a c ing H u t t o n A v e n u e the n e w six r o o m sc ho o l wa s e r e c t e d at a cost of £37,000, and was o p e n e d and b l e s s e d by the B i s h o p of W o l l o n g o n g , Dr T M c C a b e on S u n d a y 11 F e b r u a r y 1962. The p a r i s h p r i e s t w a s Rt R e v Mon s M a t t h e w O ' R e i l l y and the a r c h i t e c t s T and M M a l o n e y of Sydney. St P a u l ' s R o m a n C a t h o l i c C o l l e g e at B e l l a m b i b u i l t at a c ost of £ 8 0 , 0 0 0 on a 65 a cre site n e a r the b e a c h and c o n d u c t e d b y the M a r i s h F a t h e r s was p l a n n e d to be o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d in its first s t a g e b y B i s h o p T M c C a b e of W o l l o n g o n g on S u n d a y 13 M a y 1962. A g a l e c a u s e d the p o s t p o n e m e n t an d it w a s o p e n e d on S u n d a y 26 Au gu s t . It too k 62 b o y s in the first year. B e t w e e n it and the r a i l w a y line the H o l y C ross C o l l e g e for g i r l s was built. New s of the d i s t r i c t c o n t i n u e d to be r e c o r d e d in local n e w s p a p e r s . The s i x t i e s s a w the free n e w s p a p e r "Th e E x p r e s s " p u b l i s h e d and d i s t r i b u t e d in Illawarra. T h e " S o u t h C o a s t T i m e s " w as i n c o r p o r a t e d in the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " b y a m e r g e r , its final issue a p p e a r i n g on 9 M a y 1968. T h e need for local ne ws at H e l e n s b u r g h is b e i n g m e t b y the p u b l i c a t i o n m o n t h l y b y the C h a m b e r of C o m m e r c e of the " H e l e n s b u r g h N e w s " for free distribution. It f i rs t a p p e a r e d as an a t t r a c t i v e p r i n t e d p a p e r on 2 S e p t e m b e r 1968. L o c a l g o v e r n m e n t of the C i t y of G r e a t e r W o l l o n g o n g a f t e r the a m a l g a m a t i o n was o p e r a t e d on the z on e system, c i t e d b y A W H unt, i n s p e c t o r of local g o v e r n m e n t ac co u n t s , as a " c o s t l y f ail ur e". T h e i m m e d i a t e a b o l i t i o n of the z one s y s t e m was r e c o m m e n d e d and c a r r i e d ou t in M a y 1957. Administration was then c e n t r e d o n W o l l o n g o n g . The W o l l o n g o n g C i t y C o u n c i l o p e r a t e d a l i b r a r y w i t h b r a n c h l i b r a r i e s in v a r i o u s centres. T h e n e w ci ty l i b r a r y wa s e s t a b l i s h e d in 1959 w i t h a b r a n c h li bra ry at Bulli. T h i r r o u l b r a n c h l i b r a r y w a s o p e n e d on 21 M a y 1960

and a f t e r six m o n t h s o p e r a t i o n was second to W o l l o n g o n g in b o o k issue. b o o k m o b i l e ser v e d o t h e r c e n t r e s at a d i s t a n c e f r o m the b r a n c h li braries.

A

C o n t r o l of dogs, w h i c h had b e c o m e m o r e i m p o r t a n t t h r o u g h o u t N e w S o u t h W a l e s , wa s v e s t e d in local c o u n c i l s by the act w h i c h c a m e into o p e r a t i o n o n 1 O c t o b e r 1966. In n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a s t r a y and u n c o n t r o l l e d d o g s w e r e a s p e c i a l m e n a c e at the s chools, parks and surf b e a c h e s as wel l as in the s tre ets . The o p e r a t i o n s of c o u n c i l o f f i c e r s has p r o v e n that t h o u s a n d s of a l l e g e d l y u n o w n e d do gs w e r e at large in the area, their n u m b e r s a l r e a d y h a v i n g b e e n r e d u c e d to a min i m u m . A new d e p a r t u r e in local g o v e r n m e n t was the Act of P a r l i a m e n t in 1967 b y w h i c h local c o u n c i l s t ook ov er c ont r o l of p u b l i c c e m e t e r i e s in t h e i r area. The three in n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a - Bulli, C o l e d a l e and H e l e n s b u r g h , h a v e b e e n g i v e n q u i c k a t t e n t i o n and b r o u g h t to a s t a n d a r d w h e r e m a i n t e n a n c e w i l l b e c o m e less d i f f i c u l t w h i l s t p r o v i d i n g an o r d e r l y a p p e a r a n c e . Church c e m e t e r i e s exist at B u l l i C h u r c h of E n g l a n d and W o o n o n a P r e s b y t e r i a n C h u r c h w h e r e local c h u r c h c o m m i t t e e s still m a i n t a i n c ontrol. For the c o n t r o l of e l e c t r i c i t y s u p p l y the f o r m a t i o n of a c o u n t y c o u n c i l was r e c o m m e n d e d by the M i n i s t e r for L ocal G o v e r n m e n t in 1957'. It was to i n c l u d e W o l l o n g o n g , S h e l l h a r b o u r , K i a m a and S h o a l h a v e n . A r e f e r e n d u m in 1957 by W o l l o n g o n g g ave a s t r o n g vote a g a i n s t the f o r m a t i o n of such a c o u n t y council. H o w e v e r the I l l a w a r r a C o u n t y C o u n c i l , incorporating W o l l o n g o n g , S h e l l h a r b o u r and Kiama, was f o r m e d and h e l d its i n a u g u r a l m e e t i n g on 17 F e b r u a r y 1958. The B ulli are a c o n t i n u e d to be s u p p l i e d w i t h e l e c t r i c i t y b y B e l l a m b i Coal C o m p a n y but the s u p p l y t e r m i n a t e d f i n a l l y on 31 D e c e m b e r 1957. B u l l i had t r a n s f e r r e d from 1950 to the P u b l i c W o r k s D e p a r t m e n t e l e c t r i c p o w e r f r o m Po rt K e m b l a , o p e n e d in 1914 as the first g o v e r n m e n t - o w n e r p o w e r s tation. All parts of n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a are n o w s u p p l i e d b y the N e w S o u t h W a l e s e l e c t r i c i t y grid. The i n s t a l l a t i o n of w a t e r s u p p l i e s in the d i s t a n t n o r t h e r n s u b u r b s r e c e i v e d a t t e n t i o n of the S y d n e y M e t r o p o l i t a n W a t e r B o a r d in the c l o s i n g fifties. B e c a u s e of the small p o p u l a t i o n s all w e r e a s s i s t e d b y the g o v e r n m e n t . The s u p p l y for S t a n w e l l P a r k was t aken as an e x t e n s i o n of the s u p p l y to H e l e n s b u r g h from W o r o n o r a Dam. The w a t e r m a i n f o l l o w e d the P r i n c e s H i g h w a y and L a w r e n c e H a r g r a v e D r i v e to S t a n w e l l T o p s and H a r g r a v e H e i g h t s at Ba ld Hill. S t a n w e 1f~Tops r e c e i v e d s u p p l y and the m a i n w a s t a k e n d o w n the s t e e p hi ll to a r e s e r v o i r a bo ve the r a i l w a y tun n e l p o r t a l at S t a n w e l l P a r k from w h i c h it was d i s t r i b u t e d . S u p p l y was o f f i c i a l l y t u r n e d on b y H o n J B R e n s h a w MLA, M i n i s t e r for L o c a l G o v e r n m e n t , on S a t u r d a y 15 S e p t e m b e r 1956. The next w o r k f o l l o w i n g the S t a n w e l l P a r k s u p p l y was its e x t e n s i o n to O t f o r d in the n o r t h and C oal C l i f f to the south. T h e p i p e s w e r e laid to suit p l a n n e d future m a i n r oa ds in the a rea s c o n c e r n e d . The O t f o r d s u p p l y was c a r r i e d a l o n g L a d y W a k e h u r s t D r i v e and t h e nce by O t f o r d R o a d to the v i l l a g e w h i c h had w a t e r e d tr ai n s f r o m a small d a m on the P o r t H a c k i n g C r e e k fr om the time of the o p e n i n g of the r a i l w a y u n t i l d i e s e l i z a t i o n c a u s e d the ta nk beside the s t a t i o n to be r e m o v e d a f t e r the last s t e a m t ra in ran to O t f o r d in 1965.

100

101

S u p p l y to C o a l C l i f f w as an e x t e n s i o n f rom the s o u t h e r n end of the s y s t e m at S t a n w e l l P a r k a l o n g the L a w r e n c e H a r g r a v e Drive, t h enc e d o w n the hi ll b e l o w the m i n e a n d a r o u n d P a t e r s o n Road. The two su pp l i e s w e r e o f f i c i a l l y t u r n e d on by the D e p u t y P r e m i e r and M i n i s t e r for Lands, Hon J B R e n s h a w M L A on 18 F e b r u a r y 1961; that at O t f o r d in the m o r n i n g and that at C oa l C l i f f l ater in the day. T h e B u ll i d i s t r i c t , a l w a y s v u l n e r a b l e to b u s h f i r e s , had o v e r the y e a r s suffered severe damage. B a c k in J a n u a r y 1905 at T h i r r o u l and B u l l i the t e m p e r a t u r e w a s s a i d to ha ve been the h i g h e s t for 60 y e a rs. H o u s e s and c a m p s w e r e b u r n t out, the " I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y " r e p o r t i n g , "At n i g h t the s p e c t a c l e was one of the m o s t b e a u t i f u l e v e r seen, ov er 100 fires d o t t i n g the s id es of the r a n g e s for a d i s t a n c e of u p w a r d s of five m i l e s " . A g a i n in M a r c h 1940 fires raged a l o n g the m o u n t a i n s i d e at 102 d e g r e e s in the shade. The w o r s t f ires wer e at G r e e n ' s P i n c h on B u l l i Pass w h e r e H o w s o n ' s ho me was d e s t r o y e d and s e v e ral o t h e r s t h r e a t e n e d . P o u l t r y , p igs and s t o c k w e r e b u r nt. F i r e raged d o w n the g u l l y s o u t h of Ol d B ull i coal mine. T r a f f i c o n the B u l l i Pass w a s s t o p p e d first b y d r i v i n g f la m e s and s moke and then b y f a l l e n trees. A u s t i n m e r and C o l e d a l e h e i g h t s w e r e a b l az e, w i l d a n i m a l s i n c l u d i n g p o s s u m s r u n n i n g b e f o r e the flam es or b e i n g burnt. i ,, At H e l e n s b u r g h the v o l u n t e e r b u s h f i r e b r i g a d e was form ed on 4 J a n u a r y 1940 u nde r C a p t a i n H S t a n f o r d w i t h the c o - o p e r a t i o n of the B u l l i S h i r e C oun ci l. Its a r e a e x t e n d e d f r o m W a t e r f a l l to the top of B u l l i Pass. The m o u n t a i n a b o v e C o l e d a l e c a u ght in r a g i n g fires in J a n u a r y 1952, d a m a g i n g B u t t e n s h a w D r i v e and F u l l e r P a r k to the south. T h i r r o u l and C o l e d a l e fire b r i g a d e s f o u ght the flames. H e l e n s b u r g h was t h r e a t e n e d b u t s a v e d by f i r e f i g h t e r s . A n a ppe a l by the M a y o r of W o l l o n g o n g follow ed , r a i s i n g r e l i e f for the su ff e r e r s . The p l a t e a u f r o m W a t e r f a l l to the top of Bulli Pass wa s r a v a g e d b y b u s h f i r e s in J a n u a r y 1957, t r a f f i c b e i n g d i v e r t e d by L a w r e n c e H a r g r a v e Drive. The c a p t a i n of the T h i r r o u l Fire Br ig a d e , W m H Reev e, a f t e r s e r v i c e as a v o l u n t e e r was a w a r d e d the 0B E b y the Q u e e n in 1965.

40

years'

T h e g r e a t e s t and m o s t d e v a s t a t i n g fires in the h i s t o r y of I l l a w a r r a w e r e e x p e r i e n c e d in O c t o b e r 1968 w h e n the a r e a f r o m C o l e d a l e to M o u n t K e m b l a wa s swept by flames w i t h a s e v e r i t y not b e f o r e k now n . In n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a fires b l a z e d up at C o l e d a l e and R i x o n ' s P ass a b o v e B e l l a m b i on M o n d a y 28 O c t o b e r and all d a y r a c e d tow ar ds one a n o t h e r . Ho t w i n d s and h i g h t e m p e r a t u r e s a i d ed the flame s w h i c h b u r n t all in t he ir p a t h a l o n g the mountainside. F i r e f i g h t e r s rused up e v e r y s pu r r o a d fro m the h i g h w a y to the h il ls in turn to m e e t and fight the fi res as t h e y t h r e a t e n e d hous es , saving a countless number. D e t a c h m e n t s fro m the a r m y a r r i v e d on m i l i t a r y t r u c k s w h i l s t an a r r a y of e v e r y sort of w a g g o n c a p a b l e of c a r r y i n g a w a t e r t a n k wa s p r e s s e d into service. C e me nt t r u cks and the p e t r o l t a n k e r s of the oil c o m p a n i e s w e r e all use d to c a r r y w a t e r to tro ubl e s p ots w h i l s t h u n d r e d s of v o l u n t e e r men, r e t u r n i n g f ro m work, s e n i o r s c h o o l b o y s and l i f e s a v e r s and all w h o w o u l d

w e n t to a ssi s t . G r e a t n u m b e r s of p oli c e and e q u i p m e n t w e r e r u sh ed fro m the M e t r o p o l i t a n a r e a of S ydney. M i n e r s at Old B ull i s t a y e d a b o v e g r o u n d to f i g h t the fires. T h e c l u b s p r o v i d e d m e a l s a nd w o m e n went to s e r v e tea to the f i g h t e r s w h o s e w o r k was c o n t i n u o u s . As e a c h area was saved and the fires s w ept a l o n g the h i l l s the f i r e f i g h t e r s w e r e t ra n s p o r t e d to o t h e r t h r e a t e n e d areas. F ires r e a c h e d the b a c k of the B u lli hospit al. A m b u l a n c e m e n b y an all d a y lift r e m o v e d p a t i e n t s f r o m P h i l l i p Lodge at T h i r r o u l H e i g h t s b e f o r e the fires p a s s e d it. The g r e a t e s t d a m a g e in n o r t h e r n I lla war ra was d o n e at the B u l l i Pas s w h e r e ten h o mes w e r e d e s t r o y e d a lmo s t i n s t a n t a n e o u s l y b y e x p l o s i o n - l i k e a ttack. The home of H o w s o n s b u i l t a fte r e a r l i e r fires was d e s t r o y e d . Th e s a v i n g of m a n y m o r e w a s r e g a r d e d as a mi ra cle , some b e s i d e h o u s e s b u r n t down. Th e pass and h i g h w a y w e r e c l o s e d for h ou rs e x c e p t to w a t e r truc ks and f i r e f i g h t e r s or e v a c u a t i o n vehicles. M i l e s of s t o p p e d car s stood f r o m the p ass to C o r r i m a l . H o mes a b o v e Thirroul, A u s t i n m e r and C o l e d a l e n e a r e s t the fires w e r e d e s t r o y e d and the fires met a bove T h i r r o u l in the e a r l y ev eni ng. O n c e a g a i n the w h o l e m o u n t a i n s i d e r e m a i n e d a b l a z e all night, p r e s e n t i n g an awe-inspiring spectacle. The w h o l e of the B u l l i Pas s N a t i o n a l R e s e r v e and L a d y F ul l e r P a r k w e r e b u r n t out. Fires s w e e p i n g up the r a n g e cut M o u n t O u s l e y road l i n k i n g S y d n e y and W o l l o n g o n g w h i l s t B u l l i Pa ss was c l o s e d by flames and later b y f a l l e n trees and large r oc ks w h i c h had r o l l e d d o w n on to the h i g h w a y a b o v e the E l b o w w h e n the trees and s crub h o l d i n g t h e m b a c k w e r e b u r nt away. D e p a r t m e n t of M a i n Roads c l e a r e d the road of trees and rocks w i t h i n h ou rs the f o l l o w i n g m o r n i n g and b y n i g h t f a l l ha d r e p l a c e d all the b u r n t road signs. The fires r a ce d t o w a r d s C a t a r a c t D a m and the f o r m e r s ton e s c ho ol b u i l d i n g at S h e r b r o o k e - the last r e m a i n i n g b u i l d i n g t h ere s ince 1907 - was gu tte d, at the same time the b e a u t y of the l a n d s c a p e wa s d e s t r o y e d , n e e d i n g m a n y y ear s to recover. T h e appe al of the M a y o r of W o l l o n g o n g for c l o t h i n g , f u r n i t u r e and ca sh r e c i e v e d a r e s p o n s e n e v e r b e f o r e a c h i e v e d and the h o m e l e s s w e r e a s s i s t e d w i t h little delay. Fi re p r o t e c t i o n in the d i s t r i c t t od ay is a f f o r d e d at Bulli, T h i r r o u l , C o l e d a l e , S c a r b o r o u g h and H e l e n s b u r g h . A l t h o u g h water mains extend along the str e e t s of the d i s t r i c t , b u s h f i r e s are b e y o n d the s c ope of the m a i n s and t a nk er w a t e r p lay s a big part in t heir c o n t r o l . Entertainment in the d i s t r i c t followed a changed pattern after the i n t r o d u c t i o n of t e l e v i s i o n , the first p r o g r a m m e of w h i c h was r e c e i v e d at W o l l o n g o n g S o l d i e r s ' Ha ll in S e p t e m b e r 1956, r a p i d l y s p r e a d i n g as m o r e and m o r e h omes s e c u r e d their own t e l e v i s i o n r e c e i v e r s . In a v e r y short time t e l e v i s i o n r e a c h e d the h o m e s of the p eople. The t h e a t r e s at Bulli, T h i r r o u l , C o l e d a l e , S c a r b o r o u g h and H e l e n s b u r g h c l o s e d . Community halls still played t h e i r part. At Coal C l i f f the c o m m u n i t y hall was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d on S a t u r d a y 16 N o v e m b e r 1957, h a v i n g b e e n b u i l t w i t h f i n a n c i a l a s s i s t a n c e f ro m the J oin t Coal Board.

102 103 The Coledale the a t r e , ren o v a t e d w i t h a m o d e r n i s e d front, b e c a m e the N o r t h e r n S u b u r b s R u g b y L e a g u e Club w h i l s t at the K i n g ' s at T h i r r o u l r o l l e r s k a t i n g t o o k o ver . It was not u ntil 1969 that the B u lli t h e a t r e a g a i n o p e n e d as the w a v e of e n t h u s i a s m for t e l e v i s i o n b e g a n to sub sid e. R e c r e a t i o n c o n t i n u e d at the e x i s t i n g p a rks and s p ort s g ro u n d s . The Thomas G i b s o n M e m o r i a l P a r k g a t e s to h o n o u r the g e n e r o s i t y of the p u b l i c m a n b l i n d e d in the 1 9 1 4 - 1 8 w a r we re p l a n n e d in 1957. L e e d e r P a r k b y the sea at C o a l C l i f f was m a d e b y r e c l a m a t i o n and o p e n e d in 1964. At W o o n o n a S t r a c h a n P a r k was d e v e l o p e d in 1958. C l o w e s P a r k at A u s t i n m e r p r o v i d e d for s p o r t s at that centre. S l a c k y Flat at B ul li was d e v e l o p e d to p r o v i d e p r o g r a m m e s of dog r a c i n g and t r o t t i n g as w ell as for the a n n u a l B u l l i show. B ul li R if le Club fou nd ed in 19 12 u s e d a r a n g e f ro m the r a i l w a y line a l o n g S l a c k y C r e e k to b utts n e a r the ocea n. With increasing s e t t l e m e n t and the n ee d for the r a n g e for r o a d s and h o u s i n g it m o v e d its i n t e r e s t s to the B e l l a m b i range in the c l o s i n g fifties. In c o m m o n w i t h a g rea t P a r k and B e l l a m b i w e r e longer holidays granted n u m b e r of p e o p l e c o m i n g

C o l e d a l e s e c u r e d a n e w surf b o a t in A u g u s t 1957, n a m i n g in J o h n E H a r g r a v e in h o n o u r of its p r e sid en t. A n o t h e r boat, J o h n E H a r g r a v e II, was l a u c h e d in O c t o b e r 1964. In 1968 A n d r e w F l a k e l a r , a cl ub m e m ber , lost his life c a r r y i n g out a surf rescue. T h i r r o u l b u il t a n e w b r i c k surf clu b b u i l d i n g , o p e n e d on S u n d a y 8 N o v e m b e r 1959 b y Ern L y n c h on the f i f t i e t h a n n i v e r s a r y of the f o r m a t i o n of the s u r f c lub. A l e x A l e x a n d e r of T h i r r o u l s w a m in the O l y m p i c G am es at T o k y o in 1964 an d later g a i n e d a s c h o l a r s h i p at S o u t h C a r o l i n a U n i v e r s i t y in the US A. S a n d o n P o i n t b e t w e e n B u lli and T h i r r o u l g r e w as a p o p u l a r s u r f i n g r e s o r t an d in 1959 a surf cl ub was f o r m e d and a c l u b h o u s e d o n a t e d a f t e r u s e at C o l e C l i f f shaft c o n s t r u c t i o n at D a r k e ' s F o r e s t and t r a n s p o r t e d to S a n d o n Point. It was d e s t r o y e d b y fire in 1965 and s oon r e p l a c e d by a b r i c k building.

n u m b e r of plac es the c a m p i n g ar eas b e t w e e n S t a n w e l l c r o w d e d w i t h te nts o v e r e a c h s u m m e r season, w h i l s t to all w o r k e r s in the o p e n i n g s i x t i e s i n c r e a s e d the and g oi ng on the c a m p i n g g ro und s.

T h e s i n g u l a r f r e e d o m of the c o a s t f r o m s h a r k a t t a c k s wa s b r o k e n in F e b r u a r y 1963 w i t h the a t t a c k of a ten feet b r o n z e s h a l e r w h i c h g r i p p e d in its jaw s the leg of an 18 year old y o u t h w h o was p u l l e d in by P e te r W a l k e r w h o was s k i n d i v i n g and t a ken to C o l e d a l e ho sp i t a l .

B u l l i b e a c h c a m p i n g a rea was d e v e l o p e d for 1000 c a m p s ites w i t h a m e n i t i e s b l o c k s in 1958 and d e v e l o p m e n t b r o u g h t it to ideal c o n d i t i o n s by 1961 a f t e r w h i c h it b e c a m e c r o w d e d by cam pe rs e v e r y s e a s on. Th e f o r m e r p a r k l a n d a l o n g the w a t e r f r o n t was g i v e n o ver to h o l i d a y p i c n i c k e r s .

A s e v e r e s h a r k a t t a c k o c c u r r e d at C o l e d a l e w h e n a Blu e P o i n t e r s h a r k m a u l e d the legs of R a y m o n d Short, a ged 13, in M a r c h 1966. L i f e s a v e r s b r o k e the s h a r k ' s grip, c a r r i e d the b o y a s h o r e w h e n c e he was taken to C o l e d a l e hospital. T h e y k i l l e d the shark. A f t e r m o n t h s in h osp it al, d u r i n g w h i c h ti me he was v i s i t e d by the G o v e r n o r of N e w S o u t h W a l es, Sir R o d e n C u t l e r , an d his re sc u e r s , the b o y at last rec o v e r e d .

The s mall T h i r r o u l c a m p i n g area o p e n e d in 194 8 wa s c l o s e d in 1967 and the a r e a g i v e n o v e r to c a r p a r k i n g and p i c n i c k i n g but the a r eas of C o l e d a l e and St a n w e l l P a r k c o n t i n u e d to p r o v i d e for a g r e a t n u m b e r of c a m p e r s , s o m e w i t h c a r a v a n s but the m a j o r i t y in tents. S u r f i n g g r e w in p o p u l a r i t y and d r e w large c r o w d s to the b e a c h e s . An aerial p a t r o l u s i n g a light a e r o p l a n e p i l o t e d b y T o n y B e v a n was b e g u n in F e b r u a r y 1959 for the d e t e c t i o n of sharks and w a r n i n g of sur fers, as w e l l as for m a r i t i m e and b u s h f i r e spot ti ng. It w a s the f i rs t of its k i n d in A u s t r a l i a and o p e r a t e d f r o m an a i r s t r i p on Port K e m b l a R o a d later e n c o m p a s s e d in the n e w co al loader, a f t e r w h i c h it o p e r a t e d f r o m A l b i o n P a r k a e r o d r o m e . A B e v a n r e p l a c e d the old C e s s n a w i t h a n e w C e s s n a c o s t i n g £ 65 00 in O c t o b e r 1960 and c o n t i n u e d to use it f r e e l y on p a t r o l d u r i n g h o l i d a y s and weekends. He was e l e c t e d by the p e o p l e for a terra as M a y o r of W o l l o n g o n g in the sixties . S t a n w e l l Park, o l d e s t s urf c l u b of I l l a w a r r a , c o l l e c t e d £300 t o w a r d s b u i l d i n g the n e w c l u b h o u s e in 1956 and a L a d i e s ' S u r f cl ub w a s f o r m e d on 1 D e c e m b e r 1957. B e l l a m b i s e c u r e d a n e w c l u b h o u s e in 1956. Bulli erected a b r i c k s u r f c l u b h o u s e a r o u n d the old b u i l d i n g s in N o v e m b e r 1956, c o n t i n u i n g c o n s t r u c t i o n for 18 m o n t h s to a v a l u e of £ 1 8 , 0 0 0 . E J Ford, A H o r r e l l and T D F o r d w e r e e l e c t e d life m e m b e r s in 1958. T h e s u r f c l u b b u i l d i n g wa s o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y the May or, Aid A S q u i r e s , o n S a t u r d a y 4 O c t o b e r 1958 d u r i n g the p r e s i d e n c y of E J F o r d w h o in 1969 was e l e c t e d M a y o r of Wollongong.

T h e d e c a d e s a w the b e g i n n i n g of p o l l u t i o n of the b e a c h e s from S t a n w e l l P a r k to T h i r r o u l b y coal wash, c a u s i n g a c o n t i n u i n g p r o b l e m yet to be s olved. The m i d - s i x t i e s s a w the g r o w t h of surf b o a r d r i d i n g w h e n b o a r d r i d e r s f r o m m a n y p laces, i n l a n d as we ll as local ( wi th the m o r e w i d e s p r e a d o w n e r s h i p of m o t o r cars b y y o u n g people) f oun d S a n d o n P o i n t an ideal board r i d i n g area. C i t y r i d ers and c l u b s b e g a n v i s i t i n g to h o l d ev en ts. S k i n d i v i n g and the o p e n i n g s ixties. One in 20 feet of w a t e r m e n t i o n e d as a m e m b e r

us e of s p e a r gu ns a l s o b e g a n to gro w p o p u l a r in the e a r l y a c h i e v e m e n t was the r e c o v e r y off B e l l a m b i P o i n t of g ear f rom a w r e c k e d ste a m s h i p . Dave Selway was of the S o u t h C o a s t S k i n d i v e r s ' Club.

P o s s i b l y the m i n i m u m in b e a c h c o s t u m e s was r e a c h e d w h e n the ladies' b i k i n i c o s t u m e a r r i v e d and was a c c e p t e d on the b e a c h e s in 1961, b r i n g i n g a r e v e r s a l of the m o r e than n e c k to k n e e c o s t u m e of h a l f a c e n t u r y b e f o r e . R e c e n t a n n o u n c e m e n t s i n d i c a t e that the f a s h i o n is b e g i n n i n g to c h a n g e t o w a r d s mo re c o v e r i n g by the w o m e n f o l k . In a d d i t i o n to su rf b a t h i n g t h er e ha s b e e n a g r o w i n g d e m a n d for p oo ls in w h i c h the y o u n g p e op le can learn to swi m and inc re ase t h e i r s w i m m i n g a b i l i t y , b o t h for h e a l t h and r e c r e a t i o n . A l l p o o l s in the d i s t r i c t a r e sea w a t e r pools. T h e y i ncl u d e r o c k pools at S c a r b o r o u g h , Wom b a r r a , C o l e d a l e , A u s t i n m e r , Bulli, W o o n o n a and B e l l a m b i and an O l y m p i c Pool at T h i r r o u l

104 105

w h i c h has d r a w n g r e a t n u m b e r s of s w i m m e r s and p r o v i d e d for s w i m m i n g instruction. T h i r r o u l pool is fitted for n i g h t swimming. It r e p l a c e d the o r i g i n a l r o c k pool o p e n e d s o u t h of the b e a c h on 1 O c t o b e r 1923. The site for the H e l e n s b u r g h O l y m p i c Pool was c h o s e n in 1960 and p l a n n i n g c o n t i n u e s . B e l l a m b i soug ht a r o c k pool in 1958 and b y 1961 it was u n d e r c o n s t r u c t i o n by the B e l l a m b i Po ol C o m m i t t e e w i t h the h e l p of W o l l o n g o n g C i t y C o u n c i l , t e a c h e r s and pup i l s , c i t i z e n s of the d i s t r i c t , C o r r i m a l A p e x C lu b, A l l i e d C o n s t r u c t i o n s and the J o int Coal Board. It was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y A i d A Beva n, M a y o r of W o l l o n g o n g , on 24 S e p t e m b e r 1966. The pool, w i t h w a d i n g pool b e s i d e it, has p i c n i c tab les and p l a y g r o u n d s u r r o u n d e d b y l a w n s and s t a n d s b e t w e e n the s ite s of the two j e t t i e s long since re mo ved . P r o v i s i o n for r e c r e a t i o n an d t r a i n i n g for boys of the d i s t r i c t w a s m a d e w i t h the i n a u g u r a t i o n of the B u l l i P o l i c e - C i t i z e n s Boys' C l u b a b o u t 1941. T h e first e v e n t s w e r e h e l d in a p a v i l i o n o n S l a c k y Flat and the p e r m a n e n t b u i l d i n g on P r i n c e s H i g h w a y at S t a t i o n S tre e t , B u l l i p l a n n e d in 1957. W o r k m e n in the C o r r i m a l to Coal C l i f f a r e a p l e d g e d w e e k l y c o n t r i b u t i o n s to the funds to a s s i s t to r a i s e fi nance. C l u b s and o r g a n i s a t i o n s in the d i s t r i c t ran e n t e r t a i n m e n t n i g h t s to a u g m e n t funds. The first full time se c r e t a r y , C o n s t a b l e P e a s l e y , was a p p o i n t e d in J u l y 1959. The brick b u i l d i n g for the club, c o s t i n g £32 ,00 0, w a s ■o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y the N S W P o l i c e C o m m i s s i o n e r , C J D e l a n e y , on S a t u r d a y 17 O c t o b e r 1959. It w a s the t h i r t i e t h in the state. B oxing, w r e s t l i n g , w e i g h t lifting, judo, f i r s t aid and car d r i v i n g i n s t r u c t i o n w e r e g i v en . The Minister for N a t i o n a l D e v e l o p m e n t and M i n i s t e r for M i n e s a p p r o v e d a £ 2000 g r a n t to the c l u b in 1961. The b o y scout s are o r g a n i s e d in the N o r t h I l l a w a r r a D i s t r i c t e n c o m p a s s i n g T o w r a d g i to H e l e n s b u r g h . T h e B u l l i n e w c l u b r o o m in H o p e t o u n S t r e e t for the F i r s t B u l l i Scout s was b u i l t b y v o l u n t a r y l a b o u r by B ul li R o t a r y C l u b as a s e r v i c e p r o j e c t and s u p e r s e d e d two e a r l i e r huts. It was o p e n e d on 15 N o v e m b e r 1958 by the S tate C o m m i s s i o n e r for Scouts, W a l t e r Cohn. T h e t roop h a d b e e n formed in M a y 1940 w i t h W H M i t c h e l l as first p r e s i d e n t and C o n s t a b l e W a l t o n as first s c o u t m a s t e r . T h e T h i r r o u l scouts' c l u b r o o m w a s o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y C T F J a c k s o n , S co ut C o m m i s s i o n e r on 30 N o v e m b e r 1963 o n land l e a s e d fr om the b o w l i n g club. T h e W o o n o n a Girl G u i d e s H all b u ilt in b r i c k as a s e r v i c e p r o j e c t b y B ul li R o t a r y Club was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d on 17 N o v e m b e r 1956 b y G u i d e C o m m i s s i o n e r Mrs W C Wentworth. T h e B r o w n i e P a c k a l s o m e t in the b u i l d i n g s i t u a t e d in w h a t wa s later n a m e d S t r a c h a n P a r k in W o o n o n a . M a r c h i n g G i r l s b e c a m e p o p u l a r in the f i f t i e s and S l a c k y F l a t at B u l l i b e c a m e the c e ntre for t heir c o n t e s t s in w h i c h teams f r o m the a r e a of the Far S o u t h C oast to S y d n e y c o m p e t e d . T h e r e w e r e 50 t eams in M a y 1960. In 1961 there were 1100 m a r c h i n g g i r l s in 76 t eams f r o m a w i d e a r e a of the c o a s t to the V i c t o r i a n Border, a n n u a l c o n t e s t s t a k i n g place. I n c r e a s e d s p o r t i n g a reas w e r e p l a n n e d in 19 58 w h e n a B u i 1 i—W o o n o n a B e a c h F r o n t D e v e l o p m e n t S c h e m e p l a n n e d d e v e l o p i n g the r u b b i s h tip a r e a into p l a y i n g fields and g a r d e n s . The f o o t b a l l g r o u n d s are b e i n g p l a c e d i n t o us e

as e a c h is co m p l e t e d . S o c c e r is still b e i n g played, a l s o b e i n g p l a yed in the d i str ic t.

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B o w l i n g g a i n e d an i n c r e a s i n g n u m b e r of d e v o t e e s t h r o u g h o u t the d i s t r i c t , w o m e n ' s b o w l i n g c l cu bs b e i n g formed in a d d i t i o n to m e n ' s b o w l i n g clubs. B u l l i ' s n e w b o w l i n g c l u b h o u s e was o p ene d b y F r e d Gray, p r e s i d e n t of the I l l a w a r r a B o w l i n g A s s o c i a t i o n in J a n u a r y 1956. Th e s e c o n d b o w l i n g g r e e n w a s c o n s t r u c t e d in 1957 and the third in 1963. Th e B e l l a m b i B o w l i n g and R e c r e a t i o n Club s e l e c t e d land in R o t h e r y Road, P i o n e e r R o a d and E a s t b o u r n e A v e n u e in 1956. It i n c o r p o r a t e d the old h om e of J o s e p h M i t c h e l l w h i c h was d e m oli sh ed, the g r e e n s d e v e l o p e d and the c l u b h o u s e b u i lt. It was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d on S A t u r d a y 23 J u n e 1962. The n e w T h i r r o u l b o w l i n g c l u b h o u s e was o p e n e d d e s p i t e r a i n by the p r e s i d e n t of the R o y a l N S W B o w l i n g Club, W S Kay, on 25 M a r c h 1961, the g r e e n a p p e a r i n g m o r e like a s w i m m i n g pool on the o p e n i n g day. A u s t i n m e r B o w l i n g C lub g r e e n b u i l t on the A l l e n E s t a t e on part of the old m i n e r a i l w a y b u i l t its c l u b h o u s e in 1936 and o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d it on 5 N o v e m b e r 1939. It has m a d e great progress in the past decade' w h e n a n o t h e r g r e e n wa s b u i l t and f l o o d l i g h t i n g inst all ed. The S c a r b o r o u g h - W o m b a r r a B o w l i n g C l u b w i t h two g r e e n s at W o m b a r r a was o f f i c i a l l y d p e n e d b y L F u n n e l l , p r e s i d e n t of the I l l a w a r r a D i s t r i c t B o w l i n g Club on 8 M a y 1960. Helensburgh Club opened e x t e n s i o n s on 30 N o v e m b e r 1966, the club n o w h a v i n g two greens. The past d e c a d e b e c a m e the age of c lubs - sp or t s clubs; e n t e r t a i n m e n t and l e i s u r e c l u b s and s e r v i c e clubs. S p o r t i n g c l u b s g r e w and e x p a n d e d their bas es, n o t a b l e a m on g t hem b e i n g the L e a g u e s Clubs. T h i r r o u l L e a g u e s Clu b b uil t a m o d e r n b u i l d i n g i n c l u d i n g all a m e n i t i e s and was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y Rex J a c k s o n M L A on S a t u r d a y 7 Ju ly 1956. The a r c h i t e c t wa s A l a n Birch. Wor k e r s ' C l u b s e s t a b l i s h e d in b y g o n e y e a r s a l s o e xp a n d e d . T h e B ull i W o r k e r s ' C l u b e x t e n d e d its a c t i v i t i e s and on 27 J u l y 1957 the r e c o n s t r u c t e d b u i l d i n g c o n t a i n i n g k i t c h e n and a m e n i t i e s was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d by Re x J a c k s o n MLA. The b u i l d i n g had b e e n t ak en o v e r in 1954 and l i c e n s e d in 1955. At that time it was s t a t e d that the W o o n o n a Wo rk e r s ' C l u b of the 1900s at the c o r n e r of R u s s e l l Street and M a i n R oad had its l i c e n c e c a n c e l l e d b e c a u s e it lacked a l ibr a r y but B u l l i Wo rk e r s ' C l u b m a i n t a i n e d its l i b r a r y and so r e t a i n e d its liquor licence. Helensburgh pursued a policy of expansion. T h e loung e w i n g wa s a d d e d in 1955 and the f o l l o w i n g ye ar the r e s i d e n c e f o r m e r l y o c c u p i e d b y m a n a g e r s was d e m o l i s h e d and a games r o o m b u i l t as an e x t e n s i o n of the c lub. The b u i l d i n g was r e n o v a t e d in 1967 and the nam e c h a n g e d to the s h o r t e r t i t l e of H e l e n s b u r g h Wo rke rs ' Club. It b e c a m e an o u t s t a n d i n g b u i l d i n g of m o d e r n a r c h i t e c t u r e in H e l e n s b u r g h c o n t a i n i n g e v e r y a m e n i t y for e n t e r t a i n m e n t and r e c r e a t i o n for its large m e m b e r s h i p . It j e a l o u s l y g u a r d e d s t a n d a r d s of d r e s s and dec o r u m . In 1968 it p u b l i s h e d a c o m p r e h e n s i v e m e m b e r s ' h a n d b o o k , p o s s i b l y the first in N e w S o u t h Wales . The R S L c l u b s g r e w sim i l a r l y . T h i r r o u l R S L C lu b d e v e l o p e d a p a r k b e t w e e n its b u i l d i n g and the r a i l w a y line in 1957. It w e n t on to b u i l d an a d d i t i o n a l ha ll in b r i c k and f i n a l l y in 1967 to d e m o l i s h the f o r m e r t i m b e r s c h ool of arts b u i l d i n g and r e p l a c e it w i t h a m o d e r n b r i c k s t r u c t u r e .

106 107

T h e Bui 1 i - W o o n o n a R S L W a r M e m o r i a l C l u b b uil t at a cost of £ 3 4 , 0 0 0 was o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d b y B r i g a d i e r F G G a l l e g h a n on S a t u r d a y 30 J u l y 1960 d u r i n g the p r e s i d e n c y of D o n He gg ie, a W o r l d W a r II b o m b e r pil ot. The s u b - b r a n c h f o r m e d in 1917 went into r e c e s s in 1930 but w a s r e - f o r m e d in 1941. L a n d w as a c q u i r e d at the c o r n e r of P r i n c e s H i g h w a y and N i c h o l s o n Street. A s u p p e r r o o m and k i t c h e n e r e c t e d as the first s t a g e wa s o p e n e d in 1947 a ft er w h i c h the p r o p e r t y was a dde d to for the b o w l i n g g r e e n s . Bi ll O y s t o n s e r v e d as s e c r e t a r y of the b r a n c h for 35 y e a r s and r e v i s i t e d G a l l i p o l i for the 5 0 t h a n n i v e r s a r y of the l a n d i n g w i t h the A N Z c o n t i n g e n t in 1965 s p o n s o r e d b y the R S L club.

At C o a l C l i f f above S t o n e y Creek, c a m p shacks had b e e n b u i l t b y v i s i t o r s , m o s t l y S y d n e y s i d e r s , and the cou nci l gave them n o t i c e to q u i t in 1965. S o m e w e r e a b a n d o n e d and s o m e b urnt whils t ot he r s r e m a i n e d to be r e m o v e d to c l e a r wha t had g r o w n in a p r e v i o u s era to u n t i d y the area. The Stanwell P a r k shack s b e s i d e the l a g o o n w e r e fina lly r e m o v e d also. The Bulli and S u b l i m e P o i n t lookouts, b o t h m a g n i f i c e n t v i e w s a n d m a j o r t o u r i s t a t t r a c t i o n s , w e r e o p e r a t e d b y the L a d y F u l l e r P a r k T r u s t w h i c h had n o m e a n s to r ai se funds to m a i n t a i n them.

T a b l e t s w e r e a d d e d to the Bui 1i - W o o n o n a w a r m e m o r i a l to h o n o u r t h o s e w h o s e r v e d in the 1 9 3 9 - 4 5 w a r and K o r e a n War. The B u l l i - W o o n o n a R S L e r e c t e d and d e d i c a t e d its o w n w a r m e m o r i a l in the g r o u n d s in 1964 and a d d ed r e m e m b r a n c e b r o n z e p l a q u e s c o n t a i n i n g 540 names. Remembrance ceremonies wer e held there b y m e m b e r s .

In 1959 it wa s p r o p o s e d to c l e a r the o r i g i n a l c o a c h r oad f r o m the to p of B ull i Pass a l o n g the edg e o f the e s c a r p m e n t to the top of R i x o n ' s P a s s as a t o u r i s t road and later a l o n g the tops to B r o k e r ' s N o s e . The proposition was s u p p o r t e d b y the C h a m b e r s of C o m m e r c e but n o t h i n g has yet b e e n done, the o v e r g r o w n w a s h e d out t r a c k r e m a i n i n g i m p a s s a b l e e x c e p t for hik e r s .

At A u s t i n m e r R S L t e n d e r s w e r e calle d to e x t e n d e x i s t i n g p r e m i s e s in O c t o b e r 1960. T h e first s t a g e of the five y e a r b u i l d i n g p r o g r a m m e wa s o p e n e d on 25 M a r c h 1961. T h e site, o r i g i n a l l y the A u s t i n m e r Sch o o l of Arts, was i n c r e a s e d by the p u r c h a s e of three c o t t a g e s in 1953 and later two m o r e b l o c k s of land. The s t a g e inc lud ed a r e c r e a t i o n h al l and r e n o v a t i o n of the existing building. T h e n e w club was b u i l t of B u l l i b r i c k s at a co st of $ 1 1 0 , 0 0 0 and o f f i c i a l l y o p e n e d by the G o v e r n o r of N e w S o u t h W a l e s , Sir R o d e n Cut le r.

The G o l d e n V i e w S e r v i c e S t a t i o n was o p ene d on the n a r r o w s t r i p b e t w e e n the h i g h w a y and the c l ub b e d g e in J a n u a r y 1960 at the time H o p e t o u n P a r k f or m e d in 1900 e n c o m p a s s i n g B u l l i L ookout^ and the L a d y F u l l e r P a r k T r u s t e n c o m p a s s i n g S u b l i m e P o i n t forme d in 1928 w e r e c o m b i n e d to for m the B u l l i P ass N a t i o n a l Re serve. W H M i t c h e l l was s e c r e t a r y of the t r ust for 29

S e r v i c e c lub s c o n t i n u e d t heir work. T h e y i n c l u d e d R o t ar y, A pex, Lions, CWA, S o r o p t i m i s t . T h i r r o u l A p e x C l u b a s s i s t e d b u i l d T h i r r o u l S c o u t Ha ll and h e l p e d B u l l i and C o l e d a l e h o s p i t a l s and C h e s a l o n fete. Its n o t e d a c h i e v e m e n t was the i n a u g u r a t i o n of M e a l s on W h e e l s . A u s t i n m e r L i o n s C l u b was formed in 1959, its c h a r t e r b e i n g g r a n t e d on 29 Se p t e m b e r . T h e f irst o f f i c e r s w e r e p r e s i d e n t , H Frew; S e c r e t a r y E C u r t i s and t r e a s u r e r H Ford. A f t e r the e s t a b l i s h m e n t of the s e n i o r ci ti z e n s ' c e n t r e at T h i r r o u l the club e s t a b l i s h e d in 1961 a h o l i d a y c e n t r e at A u s t i n m e r for ag ed peo ple . S e r v i c e has b e e n g i v e n to a large n u m b e r of w o r t h y o r g a n i s a t i o n s and causes. The w o m e n ' s o r g a n i s a t i o n s i n c l u d e C W A b r a n c h e s at Bulli, S t a n w e l l P a r k and Helensburgh. T h e l a tt er s o u g h t to e s t a b l i s h rest r o o m s in 1960 but to dat e m e e t s int he RSL ha ll p e n d i n g e s t a b l i s h m e n t of r o o m s of its own. At Bu lli the S o r o p t i m i s t s C l u b r e c e i v e d its c h a r t e r on 2 M a y 1956. M r s E t h e l Davis was p re s i d e n t . T h e d i s t r i c t , m e a n w h i l e , had for i n d i v i d u a l s not o n l y the s u r f b e a c h e s and a c t i v i t i e s but the f i s h i n g boats. O v e r the c e n t u r y o f d e v e l o p m e n t o f n o r t h I l l a w a r r a sheds had b e e n b u i l t m a i n l y of s c r a p m a t e r i a l s in s h e l t e r e d bays from B e l l a m b i to S t a n w e l l P a r k and B u l g o for f i s h i n g b o a t s o n c r o w n land of the f o r e s h o r e s u n ti l in 1961 the D e p a r t m e n t o f L a n d s s o u g h t t hei r rem ov al. M a n y had be en there 50 year s. The W o l l o n g o n g C i t y C o u n c i l s u g g e s t e d the b u i l d i n g of c o m m u n i t y b o a t s h e d s of g o o d type and a p p e a r a n c e but the n e w age b r o u g h t boats of l i g h t e r c o n s t r u c t i o n , m a n y of w h i c h w e r e t o w e d on t r a i l e r s b e h i n d the cars of t h e i r o w n e r s and l a u n c h e d on ramps.

years.

i

T h e r e s e r v e s w e r e said in 1961 to a t t rac t m o r e t o u r i s t s tha n a n y o t h e r t o u r i s t p a r k e x c e p t N a t i o n a l P a r k and K u r i n g a i C h ase . W a t e r s u p p l y to the p i c n i c a rea s w as i n s t a l l e d f r o m the L o d d o n R i v e r in 1961 and a tree p l a n t i n g c h a i r e d b y R e x J a c k s o n MLA, C h a i r m a n of the B u l l i P a s s N a t i o n a l R e s e r v e T r us t and o r g a n i s e d b y H C Frew. At S u b l i m e P o i n t an i m p r o v e d w a t e r s u p p l y s t o r a g e was i n s t a l l e d w i t h a tan k h o l d i n g 3 0 , 0 0 0 g allons. In 1965 a l and s l i d e e n d a n g e r e d B u lli L o o k o u t k i o s k r e q u i r i n g the c o n s t r u c t i o n of a r e t a i n i n g w al l. T h e trust n o t e d that the p a r k was the o n l y p r o t e c t e d s a mp le of c o a s t a l r a i n f o r e s t and s o u g h t p r o t e c t i o n of its flora and fauna. T h e G y m e a L ily, k n o w n to g r o w as h i g h as 4 0 feet is a n a t i v e of the d i s t r i c t b e t w e e n G e o r g e ' s R i v e r and B u l l i Pass. The n o r t h e r n I l l a w a r r a c o a s t today - n o w w ell e s t a b l i s h e d as a s u b u r b a n a r e a h e m med in by the m o u n t a i n r ange - is a l s o a r e n o w n e d and we ll p a t r o n i z e d t o u r i s t resort. The fif ti es saw m a n y s c h e m e s for the a t t r a c t i o n o f a d d i t i o n a l t o ur ist s. Its s u g g e s t e d n a m i n g as the " Go ld C o a s t " was f o l l o w e d by the s u g g e s t e d a d o p t i o n of the " D i a m o n d C o a s t " in 1958, b u t the n a m e of I l l a w a r r a i t s e l f has not b e e n bet t e r e d . An o u t s t a n d i n g a t t r a c t i o n at S t a n w e l l P a r k was the a s s e m b l y in 1965 of J a m e s I rvi n e ' s f o l k m u s e u m in the b a s e m e n t of the fo rm e r h o m e of L a w r e n c e H a r g r a v e w it h a ll forms of e x h i b i t s d a t i n g b a c k o v e r a cen tu ry. T h e A u s t i n m e r to S u b l i m e P o i n t w a l k i n g t r a c k w i t h its 1362 feet c l i m b to a final 30 feet w o o d e n l a d d e r in the B ul li Pas s N a t i o n a l R e s e r v e d r a w s a large numbe r of b u s h w a l k e r s and m o u n t a i n c l i m b i n g e n t h u s i a s t s .

108

109

T h e r e g i o n , n o t e d for its lookouts at v a n t a g e p o i n t s t h r o u g h o u t the area; its c a m p i n g f a c i l i t i e s ; its g uest h o u s e s and b e a c h e s , looks f o r w a r d to a f u r t h e r g r e a t p e r i o d of d e v e l o p m e n t as the g r e a t i n d u s t r i a l c e n t r e of Port K e m b l a p u r s u e s the r e c e n t l y a n n o u n c e d pla n for e x p a n s i o n of its i n d u s t r i e s a l r e a d y the l a r g e s t in A u s t r a l i a .

POPULATION OF PRINCIPAL CENTRES IN BULLI DISTRICT (Supplied by Commonwealth Bureau of Census and Statistics)

LOCALITY

i

1881

) Bulli ( ( 1628 ) Bulli Pass ) Wbonona ( Rixon's Pass Russell Vale Bellanbi Thirroul Austinmer Austinmer North Coledale Coledale Heights Wbmbarra Scarborough 385 Clifton Coal Cliff Stanwell Park Otford Helensburgh Helensburgh Nth Darke's Forest Sherbrooke

1891

2578 -

204 442 248 452 -

1901

1911

1921

1933

1947

962 1758 155 409 113 -

1397

1765 2734 76 186 587(a) 2587 980 876 185 804 280 130 115 106 1882 57 66

2251 35 2998 67 291 74(b) 3151 827 86 755 177 657 424 211 114 114 102 1475 496 52

3997 2478 48 4930 3489 with Wbonona 774 (in 604 37(b) 1819 3840 3975 1636 1483 — 85 1161 754 235 739 754 307 235 154 155 156 151 267 177 133 152 2000 1803 ~ — 82 71

-

594 70 111 1611 -

-

2307 149 690 1025 258 703 571 694 63 112 1838 65

- No trace of locality can be found in records. settled and included with adjoining locality. (a) (b)

Of these 72 persons in Bulli Shire That part of Bellambi in Bulli Shire only.

1954

1961

4829 -

6254 Bellanbi) 3411 4609 2151 1312 “ 778 335 142 183 377 139 2236 — 94

Localities either not established or sparsely

Figures for remainder not available.

The Statistician explains, "In 1961, for the last time, an attempt was made to obtain population for separate 'suburbs' of Wbllongong. The statistics obtained, although published, convinced me that a better method would have to be developed to obtain intra-urban area statistics, and this has not yet eventuated."

110

111 PARLIAMENTARY

REPRESENTATION

OF

N E W SOUTH WALES LEGISLATIVE ASSEMBLY (1856Electorate

Period

(Eastern Division (of C a m d e n East Camden 1 1 lawa rra

1 1

Woronora Wo 1 l o n g o n g W o l l o n d i 1 ly

I 1lawarra Bui 1 i

1856-57 1956-57 195 8- 59 185 8-5 9 1959-59 185 9-6 0 1860-64 1864-66 1866-69 186 9 - 7 0 187 2-7 4 1 8 7 4- 70 1880-85 1885-87 1887-91 1887-91 1891-91 1 8 9 1- 94 1 8 9 1- 94 1894-1904 1904-17 19 17 - 2 0 1920-22 192 2- 25 1925-27 19 20- 27 1 920-27 19 27 - 3 0 193 0- 33 1933-47 194 7- 55 1955-

BULLI

DISTRICT

BIBLIOGRAPHY

)

BOORS AND MAPS

Member M A RKS , J o h n OSBORNE, Henry OWEN, R o b e r t M ARK S , J o h n H A R G R A V E , J o h n F l e t c h e r QC G O R D O N , Sam uel De ane HAWORTH, Robert O S B O R N E , P a t r i c k Hill ST EW A R T , J o h n OS B O R N E , J a m e s FORSTER, William GRAY, S a m u e l W i l l i a m STU ART , S ir A l e x a n d e r K C M G LYSAGHT, Andrew WOODWARD, Francis MITCHELL, Joseph LYSAGHT, Andrew NICHOLSON, John Barnes CAMPBELL, Archibald N I C H O L S O N , J o h n B a rne s NICHOLSON, John Barnes DAVIES, William CL E ARY , J o h n J o s e p h MO R T O N , M a r k F a i r i e s LY SA G H T , A n d r e w A u g u s t u s DAV I E S , W i l l i a m FUL LER , H o n Si r G e o r g e W a r b u r t o n K C M G LYSAGHT, A n d r e w Augustus LYSAGHT, A n d r e w Augustus SWEENEY, John Thomas KEL L Y , L a w r e n c e B o r t h w i c k JACKSON, Rex Frederick

AUSTRALIAN COMMONWEALTH HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES (1901-

)

B a c k h o u s e , James: N a r r a t i v e of a visit to the A u s t r a l i a n C o l o n i e s , 1843. B a i l l i e r e , F F: New S o u t h W a l e s G a z ett eer , 1966. Bak er, Wm: A u s t r a l i a n A t la s, 1848. B a r t h o l o m e w , J: G az e t t e e r , 1950 B e l l a m b i C o a l Co: M i n e s of B e l l a m b i Coal C o m p a n y , 1909. BHP: C o m m e m o r a t i n g O p e n i n g Hot S t rip Mi ll at Port K e m b l a , 1955. BHP: M e c h a n i s a t i o n in the S t eel I n d u s t r y ' s C o l l i e r i e s , 1949. B u l l e t i n N e w s p a p e r Co: L e t t e r s of Rachel H e n n i n g , 1954. C o l l i n s , D: A c c o u n t of the E n g l i s h C o l o n y of N e w S o u t h Wale s. Co usi ns , Arthur: G a r d e n of N e w S out h Wales, 1948. Cr os s , J: C ha rt of Part of N e w S o u t h Wale s, 1948. C u n n i n g h a m , Peter: Two Y 6 a r s in N e w South W a les , 1827. D i x on, R o b e r t : M a p of the C o l o n y of N e w S o u t h W a l e s , T h i r d Ed., 1842. E l f o r d and M cKe ow n: Coal M i n i n g in A u s t r a l i a , 1947. G a r r a n , A n d r e w : A u s t r a l i a I l l u s t r a t e d , 1892. G arr a n , A n d r e w : P i c t u r e s q u e A t l a s of A u s t r a l a s i a , 1886. " E m i g r a n t M e c h a n i c " : S e t t l e r s and Con v i c t s , Lond, 1947. H i s t o r i c a l R e c o r d s of A u s t r a l i a . H i s t o r i c a l R e c o r d s of N e w S o u t h Wales. Lee, Ida: E a r l y E x p l o r e r s in A u s t r a l i a . M c C a f f r e y , F: H i s t o r y of I l l a w a r r a , 1924. M c F a r l a n d , A: S hort H i s t o r y of I l l awarra. M i t c h e l l , T L: M a p of the C o l o n y of N e w S o u t h W a l e s , 1834. M i t c h e l l , W H: C i t y of G r e a t e r W o l l o n g o n g , 1952. N a t i o n a l P a r k T r u s t e e s : O f f i c i a l G u i d e to the N a t i o n a l Park, 1914. N S W R a i l w a y C o m m i s s i o n e r s : N e w S o uth W a l e s R a i l w a y System. P r e m i e r ' s Dept (Syd): I l l a w a r r a R e g i o n - P r e l i m i n a r y S u r v e y of R e s o u r c e s , 1948. Rob i n s o n , H E C: T o u r i s t G u i d e and Str ee t D i r e c t o r y - H e l e n s b u r g h to Bega. R A H S Jo ur n a l s : Jervis, James: " C e d a r and C eda r Get t e r s " , 1939, part 2. Je rv i s , James : " I l l a w a r r a : A C e n t u r y of H i s t o r y 1 7 8 8 - 1 8 8 8 " , 1942. Rowland, E C: " S t o r y of N e w S o u t h W a l e s R a i l w a y s " , 1954, Part 5. Wo od, G A: " G o v e r n o r M a c q u a r i e " , 1931. W e l l s , Wm Henry: G e o g r a p h i c a l D i c t i o n a r y , 1848. Wollongong Greater City Cou n c i l , Commonwealth Jubilee Wollongong C e l e b r a t i o n s , 1951.

NEWSPAPERS Illawarra

1 9 0 3-1 3 FUL LER , G W ( N e w D i v i s i o n of C u n n i n g h a m f o rme d 1949 1913-17 BURNS, G M B o u n d a r y w i t h W e r r i m a approx. w e s t alonj 191 7 - 2 2 LA M OND , H top of Ba ld H i l l a b o v e S t a n w e l l P a r k Werriwa 1922-31 L A Z Z A R I N I , HP 1931-34 McNICOLL, W R W e r r i w a e x t e n d e d s o u t h to include LA ZZ A R I N I , H P A u s t i n m e r in 1955 1934-49 C u n n i n g h a m 19 49 - 5 6 DAV IE S, W H e l e n s b u r g h r e m a i n e d in W e r r i w a until 195 6-6 3 K EAR N E Y , V D 1968 w h e n in H u g h e s w h i c h it rema in s 1963CO NNO R, R F X Werriwa 1952Whitlam, E G (in 1968 r e d i s t r i b u t i o n all B u lli d i s t r i c t fell into H u g h e s D i v i s i o n ) H u g h e s 1966Dobie , J D M

SYDNEY: Sydney Gazette, Empire

Australian,

Sydney Monitor,

S y d n e y M o rning Herald,

Colonist,

BULLI: B u l l i Times, W o r o n o r a T i m e s .

WOLLONGONG: I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y , W o l l o n g o n g ARgu s, S o u t h C o a s t T i m e s .

PERIODICALS I l l u s t r a t e d S y d n e y News, T o w n and C o u n t r y J o u r n a l , BHP Review, M a i n Roads, Coal Miner.

S y d n e y M ail, R A H S J o u r n a l ,

NEWSPAPER SERIALISED ARTICLES "M i n e r a l R e s o u r c e s of I l l a w a r r a " , I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y , 1876. " R e m i n i s c e n c e s of Illa war ra ", by A l e x a n d e r S t e w a r t , I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y , 1894. "Reminiscences of Illawarra", b y Old P i o n e e r ( F r a n k Y oun g ) , Illawarra Me rc u r y , 192 3 , 4 , 5 " S t o r y of L a n d S e t t l e m e n t in I l l a w a r r a " , by B e n j a m i n L i n d s a y , I l l a w a r r a M e r c u r y , 1934.

INDEX A aborigines 1,2,4 Adais, George 19,21,58,60 Adelaide 9 agriculture 7,30,56,60,88 Ainsley, T 77 aircraft 71,102 Alanson, A G 28,54 Albion Park 45 Alexander, Alex 103 Allen Estate 68,105 Allen, Wigrai 67 "alowrie" 1 aibulance services 76,77,94 A*y (ship) 52 Ancient Order of Foresters 54 Anderson 23 Anderson, Rev. E 34 Anvil Industries 88 Apex Clubs 106 apiaries 42 Appin 2,3,4,5,6,23,25,38,39,40,41 Appin Road Trust 25 Aristrong, D M 9 Arnheii, Surveyor 40 Artillery Hall 70 Austeriere 16 Austinier 6,40,43,50,52,67,69-70,71,74, 85,93,100,101,102,103 Austinier Bowling Club 105 Austinier Heights 93 Austinier Lions Club 94,95,106 Austinier Progress Association 53,69 Austinier Returned Soldiers and Sailors Meiorial Institute 70 Austinier RSL Club 70,85,106 Austinier School of Arts 70,106 Austinier Surf Club 70 Austinaere 16 Autoiobile Club of Australia 67 Austral Salt Coipany 53 Australian Agricultural Coipany 7 Australian Iron and Steel 21,88,% B baby health centres 83,94,95 Backhouse, Rev. Jaies 5 bakeries 74 Bald Hill 44,46,52,60,99 Balgownie 24,66 Ballaibi 5 Ballarat 27 Ball's Cordial Factory 54

Ball's Shop 55 Bangalore (ship) 29 banks - Bulli 52 - Clifton 43 - E S & A Bank 37 Barker, R 26 Barry, Bishop 35 Barwon (ship) 32,33 Bathurst 59 Batian brothers 3 Bass, George 1,2,7,14 Bayley, Williai 93 Beaconsfield 41 Beauiont, Sister 94 Beautiful Star (ship) 27 Bellaibi 4,7,9,17,26,27,28,29,30,32,38,39, 55-6,74,81,93,102,103,104 Bellaibi and Bulli School of Arts 28,29,37 Bellaibi Bay 4,10 Bellaibi Bowling and Recreation Club 105 Bellaibi Brass Band 56 Bellaibi Coal Coipany 10,17,18,19,55,73,76,99 Bellaibi Estate 4,55 Bellaibi Harbour 7,17,27,32 Bellaibi Jetty 17,66,80 Bellaibi Mines Rescue Station 88 Bellaibi Music Hall 55 Bellaibi Point 4 Bellaibi Pool Coiiittee 104 Bellaibi Rescue Station 20 Bellaibi Surf Club 102 Bellaibi Vale 24 Bellaibi Village 4 Bell Bird (ship) 27 Bellbird 20 Bellinger River 29 Beliore Band of Hope 36 Bennett, Thoias 64 Bennett, W 26 Bennett, Williai 64 Berkeley 43 Berry Butter Factory 56 Bevan, A 104 Bevan, A R 93 Bevan, Tony 102 Biggar, John 40,41,45 Birch, Alan 105 bird collectors 2 birds 3,41 Black Cutting 24 Black Diaiond Club 38 Black, Jaies 30,31 Black, Rev. Cleugh 71 blackberries 59-60,77-8

Blacket, E T 35 Black's Bush 30 Blooifield 46 Blue Gui Forest 44 Blue Mountains 2 Bluff Estate 76 Board of Fire Couissioners 72 boarding houses 57 - Ferndale 41 - Glen Isle 41 - Outlook Guest House 69 Bolton, Surveyor 25 Bolye 4 Bondi Beach 33 Botany Bay 33 Bott, H A 73 Bottle Forest 40,41,44,45 Bourke, Williai Jaies 58 Bowling, Peter 20 Bowian, Uilliai 4 Bowral 16 Boy Scouts 70,104 Bradford breaker 22 Brand, Rev. Alan % Bray, Arthur 31 Brennan 5 Brennan, Moses 4 brickyards 36,43,46,55,82,83,88 Bright, Mrs 34, Bright Planet (ship) 33 Broken Hill 19,20,47 Broken Hill Propriety 19 Broker's Hose 1,45,107 Brophy, T 3 Broughton, Miss 3 Broughton's Pass 23,37 Brown Brothers' Orchard 56 Brown, E C 58 Brown, Frank 91 Brown, J 77 Brown, Williaa 41 Brown's Bridge 65 Buckingham Mrs W 73 Buckland, John 4 Buckness, Williai 5 Bulgo 4,46,47 Bulgo Range 45 Bullaibi 4 Bull-Eye 4 Bulli - discovery of 1,2

_

Bulli Bulli Bulli Bulli Bulli Bulli

4 and Bellaibi Benefit Society 36 and Bellaibi Coipany 9 Baths 77 Bight 32 Bowling Club 83 Brick and Tile Coipany 81,88

Bulli Coal Coipany 10,11,14,32,33,38 Bulli Council Chaibers 64,79 Bulli Court House 38 Bulli Greyhound Racing Club 94 Bulli Harbour 3,32 Bulli Hospital 31,58,76,80,82,83,93,94,101,106 Bulli Jetty 14 ,19,21,32,33,39,52,66,72,80 Bulli Lookout 3,18,66,67,107 Bulli Masonic Teiple 63 Bulli Mine Disaster 12-14,20 Bulli Miners’Lodge 12,64,73 Bulli Mountain 5,21,23,24,30,37,41-2,50,56,72,88 Bulli Oddfellows’Hall 13,14,60,63,73 Bulli Parish Hall 55 Bulli Park 64 Bulli Pass 3,5,6,23,25,26,40,41,42,44,47, 56,59,67,68,81,84,90,100,101,107 Bulli Pass National Reserve 101,107 Bulli Point 5,10,31,32,36,39,60 Bulli Police-Citizens Boys' Club 104 Bulli Police Court 12 Bulli Rifle Club 58,102 Bulli Rotary Club 93,104 Bulli School of Arts 70 Bulli Shire 62,78,79 Bulli Shire Council 63-4,67,68,69,71,73, 74,76,77,81,83,84 Bulli Show 84,89,102 Bulli Show Society 83 Bulli Spinners 85,88 Bulli Surf Club 77,102 Bulli Theatre 102 Bulli-Woonona RSL Club 106 Bulli Workers’Club 34,105 Bulli's Newtown 57 Burnett, Surveyor 23 Burns, G M 76 bushfires 40,100,101 bushrangers 4 businesses 37,48,55,57,92 butter 7,29 "Butterbox" 69 Byrnes, Edwin 48 C cabbage-tree palis 1,2,84 Caffe, F 5 Cahill, J J 84 California 9 Callaghan 5 Caiden, County of 5 Caieron, k 'a 79,80 Caipbell, Archibald 39 Caipbell, H B 80 Caipbell, W 41 Caipbell, Williai 35 Caipbell’ s Estate 55

Caipbelltown 2,6,25,26,45 Caip Creek 16,44,46,47 Capetown 32 Caroline (ship) 27 Carrick 44 Carrington, Lord 13,48 Carroll, P 18 carpenters 29 Carver, Surveyor 45 Cataract 6 Cataract City 56 Cataract Dai 56,57,72,101 Cataract River 41,42 Cater, Frank 68 Cater, T 18 cattle 2,4,7,30,56 Cavanagh 35 Cawley 24,28,46 Cawley Estate 55 Cawley, John 76 Cawley, Michael 76 Cawley Park 76 Cawley’ s hill 24 cedar 2,3 ceieteries - Bulli 13,34,99 - Clifton 51 - Coledale 99 - Corriial 13 - Fairy Meadow 13 - Helensburgh 61,99 - St Augustine’ s 13,17,34,62,99 - Sherbrooke 56 - Wollongong 34 - Woonona Presbyterian 13,17,29,99 Centennial Hall 43,52 Centennial Picture Hall 75 Central Illawarra Shire 78 Cessnock 20 Chadwick, Mrs 94 Chaliers 12 Chaipion, R 77 Chapian, A G 28 Charlesworth, David 34 Charlesworth's Hill 24,40 Cheadle, Mrs 70 China 9,10 Chippendale 5,29,43 Churches Austimer - All Saint’ s C/E 70 - Methodist 70 - St John's C/E 53 Bellaibi - Methodist 96 Bulli - Church of England 13,34,35,58,72-3,95 - Methodist 30,73,95

- Priiitive Methodist 34,64,73 - St Joseph’ s 35,58,72 - Seventh Day Adventist 73 - Wesleyan 26,30,31-2 Clifton - Emanuel Church of England 44 - Roian Catholic 44 - St Paul’ s Anglican 69 Coledale - Methodist 60,68,95 - Roaan Catholic 68 - St Oswald's C/E 60 Helensburgh , - Church of England 61,96 - Methodist 61,% - Presbyterian 61,75,96 - Roian Catholic 61 Otford - All Hallows Church of England 47 Scarborough - Presbyterian 51,69 Sherbrooke - Union Church 41,42,56 Thirroul - Baptist 71 - Methodist 71 - Presbyterian 71,95 - St David’ s C/E 71,84,95 - St Holua Roian Catholic 71 Woibarra - Catholic 96 Woonona - Baptist 54,73,95 - Church of England 28,30,74,95 - Congregational 30 - Methodist 73,95 - Presbyterian 29,30,74,95 - Priiitive Methodist 30 - Salvation A n y 73,95 Clarke 7 Clarke, C 77 Clarke, G O'Malley 13 Clarke, John Kerr 19 Clarke, Rev. W B 7 Clarke, W 1 Cliff 18 Clifton 15,16,38,43-4,46,50,51,59,64, 66,67,68-9,74,76,81,90,96 Clifton Jetty 15,19,44,89 Clifton Progress Association 50 Clifton School of Arts 43,69 Cliftonville 51 Clowes, J 70 Clowes Park 102 Cluio, Captain 28 coach services 26,46,64 coal - discovery of 1,7

- lining 7-22,30,87-8 - lines 6-22 - shipments 32 - transportation 49,66,87 Coal Cliff 1,2,4,7,14,15,16,40,44,45, 99,100,101,102,104,107 Coal Cliff Coal Mining Coipany 14 Coal Cliff jetty 14 Coal Cliff Mining Estate 19 Coal Cliffs 6 Coal Mine Rescue Stations 20,88 Coal Miners' Federation 20 Cobar 18 Cochrane, F S 85 Cockerton and Coipany 30 Cockle Creek 20 Coghlan, John 16 Cohn, Walter 104 coke ovens - Bulli 19 - Coal Cliff 19,87 - South Clifton 19 coke works 18,19 Coledale 18.51,60,68,69,76,84,85,100,101,103 Coledale Hospital 76,80,93,103,106 Coledale Progress Association 68 Coledale RSL Club 85 Coledale Theatre 102 Collaery 24 Collaery, J H 28 Collaery, W 28 Colleton, Dr 76 collieries - Appin 87 - Austinier 16 - Bulli 10,11,12,13,14,17,20,21,32,88,96,100,101 - Bulli Pass 20 - Bellaibi 7,9,17 - Clifton 13,15 - Coal Cliff 12,19,20,21,43,87 - Darkes Forest 87,103 - Excelsior 18,20,87 - Helensburgh 16-17,20 - Metropolitan 85,88 - Mount Keira 9,11,13,87 - Mount Keibla 11,13,14,16,87 - Mount Pleasant 11,12 - North Bulli 16,18 - North Illawarra 16,43 - O'Brien’ s Bulli 9 - Osborne-Wallsend 7,11 - South Bulli 10,17,18,20,74,87 - South Clifton 18 - Taylor and Walkers 17 - Woibarra 19,20,88 - Woonona 7,10,17,18 Collieries Regulation Act 11 Collina (ship) 27,28

Collins 1 Collins Creek 90 Collins Rocks 1,59 Coio Bridge 65 constables 4 convicts 4,23 Cook, Captain Jaies 1 Cope, Herbert 12,14 Cordin, Ron 94 Corrigan, Edward 4 Corriial 23,104 Corriial Apex Club 104 Corriial Co-operative Store 92 Cotterell, H F 58,63,70 Council of Education 33,42 Country Woiens’Association 106 court houses 38,44,68 Cowpastures 4 Cowper, Rev. W 35 Cowper’ s Lookout 50,67 Cox, Dr 23,28 Craddock, G 53 Craiger, H 63 Crai, Anthony 53 Crane 28 Crick, W P 54 Crippled Children's Association 80 Croft, G 39 Croft, George 57 Croipton, Robert 38 Cross, J 6 Cuiberland Coal and Iron Mining Coipany Cuiberland, County of 4,5 Cunninghai, Peter 3 Curtis, E 106 Cuthbert, John 75 Cutler, Sir Roden 103,106 D dairy industry 7,29 Dailey, Williai Bede 15 Dapto 41 D’ Arcy, P 37 Darkes Forest 92 Darley, Sir Frederick 58 Davidson, J 63,77 Davidson, Jaies 73,74 Davisdon, Mrs Janes 75 Davidson's Polytechnic Store 55 Davidson's Store 54 Davies, W 20,21,71,74 Davis, Ethel 106 Davy safety laips 14 Day, Mrs L 95 De Flon, A 14,17 De Flon, Miss 43 Delaney, C J 104

Denison. Sir Williai 24 Departient of Agriculture 59 Departient of Education 97 Departient of Main Roads 79,81 Departient of Public Instruction 28,51 Departient of Public Works 97 Department of Railways 51,64 Dickson, Uilliai 57 Dixon, Dr 76 Dixon, Hugh 73 Dixon, Robert 46 Dobbie, S R 61 Dowson 61 Duke of Wellington (ship) 27 Drui of Fife (ship) 27 Dudley 37 Duibrell 28,59 Duibrell, Williai 35,56 Dunlop, J W 70 Dunne, Rev. Fr 68 I Eagle (ship) 15 Early Closing Act 72 Eden, D R 28 Edinburgh, Duke of 84 Ediondson, P D 77 electricity 74,79,99 Elizabeth (ship) 29 Elliott 5 Elliott, A 68 Eipire Theatre 75 Eipress Theatre 75,77 Endeavour (ship) l England 9,29,30 Eskbank 18 Evans, J 13 Evans, John 14 E Vickery and Sons 19 Ewing, Rev. T C 28 Excelsior (ship) 27 F Fackender, A H 64 Fairy Creek 89 Fairy Meadow 23,29,89 faning 30 Farraher 24,28 Farrell 39 Farrell, Thoias 35 Fawcett 34 Ferndale 41,56 Figtree 38 Finney, Mrs 94 fire stations 72 fires 55

fishing 106 Five Islands 1,2 Five Islands Point 49 Flakelar, Andrew 103 Flanagan, Rev. Dr 35 Flanagan's Creek 52 Fletcher, Jaies 16 Flinders, Matthew 1 floods 90 Floyd 59 Floyd, Jaies 84 Floyd, R G C 94 Floyd's Point 39,59 Forbes 85 Ford, E J 102 Ford, H 105 Ford, T D 102 Forresters' Court 36 Francis Crossle (ship) 77 Fredericksen, Hinrich 33 Free Gardiners 54 Free Selection Act 1861 30,40 Freeian, Mrs 75 Frew, H 106 Fry, H S 28,29,35,36,39,54,58,62,73 Fry, Harold 58 Fry, Harold S 95 Fry, Miss I R 58 Fry, Rhoda Wiliot 29 Fry's Store 24,26-7,29,37 Fuller, G U 55 Fuller Park 100 Fuller, Sir George 74 Funnell, L 105 Furneaux Islands 1

G Galleghan, F G 106 Gallagher's Quarry 57 Gaie, Sir Philip 70 Garden Palace fire 45 Gardiner 38 Gardiner, Ian 94 Gardiner, N M 97 Garlick 28 Garner, Dorothy 93 Garrawarra Park 67 gas lighting 54,71 Gavine, P 29 George (ship) 32,33 George's River 2,25,40,41,44,45 Geraghty brothers 3-4 Geraghty, Jaies 4 Geraghty, Patrick 4 Gibbons, Matthew John 4 Gibson, Haiilton 73,95 Gilroy, Cardinal N 84

Girl Guides 70,104 Good Teiplars Lodge 36,43,60 Goulburn Gaol 20 Gould, Dr 37 Goulston, John 75 Governor Blackall (ship) 66 Governor Bourke 23 Governor Gipps 7 Governor Hunter 1 Governor Macquarie 2,3 Grafton 15 Grahai 28 Grahai's paddock 12 Grand United Order of Foresters 36 Gray, Fred 105 Greenhalgh, F 74 Green's Pinch 89,90,100 Grills 68 Guiney, D 3 H Haberley, G 29 Hacking Creek 14,16 Hale, Thoias 7,9,14,17,18,27,28,29 Hale's Estate 54,55 Hale's Mine 53 Hall, Dr 36 Hall, Thoias 61 Hauond, John 88 Hanley, W 48 Hardie Rubber Coipany 77 Hargrave Heights 92,99 Hargrave, Judge 5,14,43,44 Hargrave, Lawrence 4,52,107 Hargrave, Mrs R 94 Hargrave, R 90 Harper, Charles 15,16,17,47 Harper, Mrs E C 84 Harris 33 Harris, H 28 Harrison, Rev. Hector 95 Hayles, R T 40,41 Hayian, H W 54 Hayward, Thoias 24 Headlands 16 Headlands Guest House 85 Heathcote 17,34,40 Heathcote, Parish of 16 Heffron, R J MLA 96,97,98 Heggie, F G 106 Helen (ship) 27 Helensburgh 16,17,34,44,46,47-8,60-1,72,75,76,80, 81.83,84-5,88,89,90,92,93,98,99,100,101,104 Helensburgh Chaiber of Conerce 92 Helensburgh Manufacturing Coipany 76 Helensburgh Masonic Lodge 75 Helensburgh Progress Association 61

Helensburgh RSL Hall 92 Helensburgh School of Arts 60,61 Helensburgh West 61 Helensburgh Workers' Club 105 Helensburgh Workian's Social and Literary Club 61,75 Helensburgh-Stanwell Park Life Saving Club 69 Henning, Biddulph 25 Herculean (ship) 27 Herga (ship) 15,19 Hicks Brothers 42 Hicks, H T 51 Hicks, Jaies 39,42 Hicks Point 16 Higgins, Mrs Arnold 71 Hilda (ship) 15,19 Hiles, J J 63 Hines, A 77 Holden 34 Holt, Sir Thoias 41 Hope 12 Hopetoun Park 59,64,68,107 Horan 60 Horan, A 61 Horan, Thoias 48,61,75 Horrell, A 102 Hoskins, A S 85 Hoskins, Lady 93 hotels - Bellaibi 29,55,56 - Black Diaiond Hotel 37,57 - Bulli 57 - Bulli Pass Hotel 70 - Centennial Hotel 48,94 - Clifton Inn 44 - Demark Hotel 37,57 - Grenadier Hotel 47 - Harp Inn 26 - Headlands Hotel 85 - Heathcote Hotel 46 - Hotel Panoraia 66 - Iiperial 44 - Metropolitan 60 - Paragon 60 - Railway Hotel 37,57 - Rex Hotel 85 - Royal Hotel 85 - Scarborough Hotel 51 - Star of the Sea 37,57 - Stokes Hotel 77 - Tatterall's 21 - "Woonona" 29 - Zieis' Royal Hotel 36 houses - first 3-4 Housing Conission 81-2,93 Howson 100 Huffer, John 42 Hughes, W M 20 Hungry Hill 40,57

Hunt, A W 98 Hunter River 1 Hunter River liners 12 Hurstville 45,49 Hutton, Gordon 84 Hutton, J G 52 Hyde 18

I Illawarra Bowling Association 105 Illawarra Brick and Fireclay Coipany 82 Illawarra Brick and Tile Coipany 88 Illawarra Coal Mining Coipany 15 Illawarra Coke Coipany 87 Illawarra Cottage Hospital 76 Illawarra County Council 99 Illawarra Flaie Trees 84 Illawarra Greyhound Racing Club 77 Illawarra Hill 23 Illawarra Salt Coipany 53 Industrial Disputes Aiendient Act 20 Ironside (ship) 32 Irvine, Jaies 107 Irvine, Rev. G D'Arcy 53 J Jackson, C T F 104 Jackson, Rex MLA 97 Jago, A H 93 Jaies, T A 47 Jaubert, Leon 55 Jersey, Lord 17 Jeston, Mr and Mrs 28 jetties 26,27,44,49,55,62,66,80,89 John E Hargrave (ship) 103 John Vicars and Coipany 85 Joint Coal Board 79-80,84,85,88,94,101 Jones 53 Jones, Elizabeth 29 Jones, J C 13,53

K Kay, Rt. Rev. Robert 71 Kay, W S 105 Kelly 5 Kelly, Archbishop 71,72 Kelly, C A 82 Kelly, Thoias 26 Keibla Bay 49 Kennedy Estate 53 Kennedy, Jaies 42 Kent, Barry 88 Kent Group 32 King, N S 96 King's Falls 5,25

King's Theatre 77,102 Kirton, J S 18,53,55,63,74 Kirton, S 37 Kirton, Williai 30 Knight 41 Knight, A 42 Knight Brothers' Mill 56 Knight, Franklin 56 Knight, H 42 Knight, Thoias 56 Knight's Bridge 42 L Lady Fuller Park 67,84,101,107 Lake Illawarra 1 land sales 6,53,55,56,60,61,69 land grants 2,3,4,5 land prices 30 Lang, Alexander 12,13 Lang, Rev. John Duniore 5,29,44 Larkin 24 lawn bowls 55 Lawrence, D H 71 Lawson, Henry 59 Leeder Park 102 Leiaire, A E 63 Lewin, Rev, J H 35 Lewis and Stockwell 32 Lewis, T L 88 libraries 28,29,54,60,10,73,75,80,95,98-9,105 Lillis, P 3 Lillis, R 3 Lily of The Valley 36 Lilyvale 14,60,61,78 Lilyvale Co-operative Society 92 Linbridge Estate 76 Lindsay, Williai 74 Lithgow 18,20 Little Bulli 4,45 Liverpool 2,6 local government 39,62,63,78,79,98,99 Loddon River 25,90 Lonpore 32 Lonpore, Robert 27 Long Nose Point 16 Lorking, Alfred 29 Lorking, E n a Wood 29 Loveday, J 41 Loveday, Williai 56 Lowe, Robert 42 Lugarno 40 Lynch, Ern 103 Lynch, Rev. 35 Lyons, Dr 26,36,37 Lysaght, A A 53,64 Lysaght, Andrew 38 Lysaght's Port Keibla 83

H McBrien, Jaies 4 McCabe 10,23,76 McCabe, Dr T 98 McCabe, F P 9,24,35,56 McCabe, J 0 13 McCabe, Russell 76 Macauley Park 51 Macauley's Hill 71 Macauley's Point 52 Macauley, Rev. J 75 McCauley, Saiuel 43 McGawley, Peggy 3 McGawley's Point 4 McGowan, Surveyor 66 McKenzie 29 McKenzie, Inspector 68 McKenzie, J G 82 McIntosh, J 36 McIntosh, R V 80 McIntyre, A 26 McLaren, W J 43 McMeekin, Mrs John 74 McMillan, Sir Williai 75 Macphee, Donald 42 Macquarie River 44,45 Madden's Plains 17,25,41,67 Maher, Jaies 38 ■ail 23,24,26,37 Mailbag Hollow 26,35,67,83 Main Roads Board 67 Maloney, T i M 98 Mann, J A 26 Manning, Jaies 44,45 ■aps * Chart of New South Wales 6 - Map of Illawarra 5 - Map of The Colony of New South Wales 6,46 Marjorie (ship) 55 Marquis of Argyle Lodge 36 Martin, Archdeacon 69 Masonic Teiple 36,75 Matador (ship) 33 Meals on Wheels 93-4,106 Medlyn, Thoias 94 Meehan, Jaies 2,5 Meggitt, Ivor H 70 Melbourne 9 Menai 40 Merksworth (ship) 12 Metropolitan Coal Coipany 16,61 Midgley, H 76 Military Hall 70,71 Miller, J H 37 Mills, Williai 26

Miners' Federation 20 Miranda (ship) 27 Mitchell 17,33 Mitchell and Woolcott-Waley 17 Mitchell, Caipbell 14,43 Mitchell, Sir Thoias 5,6,14,40,43 Mitchell, Surveyor 23 Mitchell, W H 77,79,81,104,107 Mitchell, W P 63 Mitchell's jetty 55 Molloy 58 Molloy's Tiiberyard 55 Moore, Jaies 47 Moran, Cardinal 58 Moran, Rev. J F 35 Morgan, J 19 Moriarty, E 0 27 tort, T S 59 Morton, F J 94 Moselle (ship) 32,33 Moss Vale 16 lotor vehicles 66 ' 1 Mott, Mrs 78 Mount Brisbane 3 Mount Keira 3,7,23,24,37 Mount Keibla 100 Mount Keibla Coal Coipany 46 Mount Keibla Mine Disaster 20 towll, Archbishop 84,95 Mudiire 43 Mutch, T D 67 Myles, John 58 N Nairns, T S 97 Nash, Dr 60 National Miners' Union 12 National Park 46,67-8 National Roads and Motorists Association 67 native aniials 41 Nelson, Saiuel 94 Ne Oblie (ship) 15 Newbold's 82,88 Newcastle 1,16,20,60 Newcastle Miners' Union 9,14 Newcastle-on-Tyne 32 Newian, W H 78 newspapers - Australian Churchian 72 - Bulli Tiies 58 ,72,84 - Bulli and Clifton Tiies 38 - Bulli Tiies and Shire Advocate 72 - Daily Telegraph 58 - Helensburgh News 98 - Illawarra Banner 38.84 - Illawarra Express 31,38,44 - Illawarra Mercury 7,11,12,14,24,25,31,33,

38,42,45,56,58,72,84,98,100 - South Coast Tiies 38,58,84,98 - Sydney Gazette 2,4 - Sydney Mail 59 - Sydney Monitor 5 - Sydney Morning Herald 4,25,30,31,58,72 - The Colonist 4 - The Express 98 - Wollongong Argus 38,53,58,84 - Woronora Tiaes 58 Newtown 43,51 Nicholson, J S 63 Nicholson, John B 14,58,61 Nightingale (ship) 27 North Bulli 16,39,40,42,43,60 North Bulli Coal and Iron Mining Coipany 16 North Bulli Estate 16 North Bulli jetty 18 North Clifton 51 North Illawarra Coal Coipany 16,43 North Illawarra Municipal Council 24,66 North Illawarra Municipality 39,62,78 Northern Illawarra A 4 H Society 83 Northern Suburbs leagues Club 102 Noss, Norian 84 O O'Brien, Bartholoiew 9,27 O’ Brien, Cornelius 3,4,5,6,7,23 O'Brien, Denis 4 O'Brien, Rev. Dr Eris 84 Ocean Queen (ship) 28 Oddfellows’Hall 36,39,73 Old Bulli 57 orchards 30,41,56 O’ Reilly, Rev. M 98 Organ, Emily 31 Organ, G 25,34 Organ, George 31,37 Organ, Mrs G 58 Organ, W H 31 Orphin and Newson 34 Orvad, J P 37,40 Orvad’ s rooas 39 Osborne family 10,17 Osborne, Alick. 27 Osborne, Henry 7,25 Osborne, Miss 34 Otf ord 34,45,46,47,48,60,65,78,99 Outlook Guest House 69 Overington, Harriett 4 Oxley, John 2,3 Oyston, J 94 P Palais Regent 83

Palais Theatre 77 Pallier’ s Asseibly Rooa 34 Palier, Dr C R 83 Para Creek 23 Paragon Hall 60,75 Parkes, Lady 17 Parkes, Sir Henry 14,17,25,44 Parkinson 44 Parliaaent, Meabers of 14,16,20,21,26,58,58 Parraaatta 3,13,26 Payne, John 41 Peasley, Constable 104 Pendlebury, Joseph 83 Pendlebury Park 83 Pendlebury, Thoaas 55 Pendlebury’ s works 36,82,88 Perry, Deputy Surveyor General 23 Phillip Lodge 101 picnics 36 picture theatres 77 Pile 37 Platt, Mrs 94 Pliaaer, C 19,73 Plunkett, Captain 23 Plunkett’ s hill 23,24 Point Hicks 1 police 37 - Bulli 72 - Helensburgh 61 - Otford 47 - Woonona 54 Pollock, Robert 12 Pope, C 28 Pope, Charles 30 Port Hacking 14,39 Port Hacking Creek 45 Port Jackson 16 Port Keabla 14,18,19,21,22,49,79,80, 81,87,92,99,107 Port Pirie 19 Port Stephens 1 post offices - first 29 - Austinaer 53,70 - Bulli 37,52,57,64,72 - Clifton 43 - Coledale 60 - Helensburgh 47,48 - Helensburgh West 61 - Otford 47 - Robbinsville 51 - Thirroul 52,70,72 - Woonona 54-5 Powell, Charles 42 Prescott, Rev. C J 70 Priena 53 Princess Theatre 83,95 Pritchard, J 54

- Prince's Highway 3,22,66-7,71,74,81, 83,89,90,97,99,106 - "Queen’ s Highway” 12 - Raymond Road 71 - Rixon's Pass Road 34,37 - Rixon’ s Road 24,25 - Robertson Street 61 - Rothery Road 105 - Roxborough Ave 84 - Russell Street 54,63,73,105 - Saith Street 2,23 - Squires Way 89 - Ursula Road 88 - Walker Street 48,60,61,75,76,92,94 - Wardell Road 96 - Westmacott’ s Pass 24,25 - Williaa Street 97 - York Road 89 - Young Street 60,68 Robbins, Frederick 43,51 Robbinsville 13,39,45,50,51 Robertson, D A W 63 Robertson, Sir John 15,30,48 Robertson’ s View 50 Robinson 61 Robson, Williaa 10 rock pools 103-4 Rolfe, J 29 Rose, Miss M W 31 Roseville 43 Ross, Alexander 10,12 Rotary Clubs 80,106 Rowe and Saith 46 Royal Coaaission 13 Royal Society 44,52 Royal Theatre 77 RSL Clubs 105-6 RSL Ladies Auxiliary 80 Russell Vale 9,10,23,24,35,55,56,63,85 Russell Vale Progress Association 85 Ryan, Gordon 93 Ryan, Thoaas 18 S Sacramento (ship) 27 saltworks 53 Salvation Army 34,54 Sandon Point 3,5,32,81,103 Sandon Point Surf Club 103 San Francisco 9,19 sassafras 2 sawaills 30,41,42,47,48,53,56,61 Saxonia (ship) 55 Sayvell 51 Saywell, T 61 Saywell, Thoaas 10 Scarborough 51,68,69,90,101,103

Scarborough Surf Club 77 Scarborough-Woabarra Bowling Club 105 Scarborough-Woabarra Hall 85 skating rinks 54 Schools of Arts 28,29,37,43,60,61,70,71,72,73 schools - Appin 25 - Austinaer 53,68,70,81,% - Balgownie 50,51,60 - Bellaabi 97 - Bulli 25,33-4,70,81,96,97 - Bulli High 98 1 - Caap Creek 47 - Cataract City 56 - Church of England 28,30 - Clifton 43,44,50,68,96 - Coledale 68,81,96 - Corriaal 60,81 - Fairy Meadow 50,53 - Helensburgh 47,48,60,97 - Horth Bulli 42-3,53 - Otford 47 - Robbinsville 51 - Roaan Catholic 35,61,72,84,85,98 - Russell Vale 81,97 - Scarborough 68,81,96 - Sherbrooke 42,57 - Thirroul 84,97 - Waniora 81 - Woonona 33,42,54,74,81,97 - Woonona East 97 - Woonona High 98 - Wreck Bay 97 Scott 12 Sedgwick, Dr 36 See, John 61 Sellers, A E 0 73 Selway, Dave 103 settleaent 2,3,5,6 "Settlers and Convicts” 4,5 Shanghai 32 shark attacks 103 Sharaan 28 Shaw, Dr Jaaes 36,37 Sheahan, W P 95 Sheehan, Rev. Dr 72 Sherbrooke 28,30,41-2,48,56,57,59,101 Sherbrooke, Lord 42 shipwrecks 16,52,55,66,103 Shires Bill 62 Shoalhaven 2 Shoobert, Jaaes 7,10 Shoobert, Captain Jaaes 32 Shoobert, Mrs 33 Short, Rayiond 103 Sidaouth 6 Sisters of St Joseph 35 Slacky Creek 90,102

Thoias Gibson Meiorial Park 102 Thoias Heaney and Sons 88 Thoipson, Hiss 31 Thorne, J W 88 Throsby, Dr Charles 2,3 Tiger (ship) 27,32,33 Tobin, Jaies 94 Toland 38-9 Tollbars 24 Toi Ugly’ s Point 40 Toi Ugly’ s Punt 44 Torres Strait 9 tourisi 50,52,59,66,67,69,70,102 Towradgi Park Ladies' Bowling Club 93 Trindall, Dr 60 Trinity Row 39 Trotter, Thoias 3 Turnbull, Andrew 25 Turnbull, G S 30,37,57,59,60 Turnbull's Store 37 Tweed River 28

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11

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Unanderra 19 unions 9,11-12,14 Union Theatres 77 United Ancient Order of Druids 54 Universal Saturday Half Holiday Act 72 Upper Bulli 41 V Vale and Lacey 10 Van Dieian’ s Land 1 Vaughan, Archbishop 35 vegetation 2,3 Vernon, F H 77 Vibilia (ship) 27 Vickery, Ebenezer 10,18,19 Victoria Packet (ship) 27 vineyards 30 Vollbrecht, G 45 Vulcan Firebrick Coipany 88

H Wagga 39 Hakehurst, Lord 52 Waldron, Miss 28 Waley, Sir Frederick 73,76 Walker 9,10,17,27 Walker, Mrs G 60 Walker, Peter 103 Walters, W 77 Waniora Point 5,32,35,39,59,82 war leiorials 74 Waratah (ship) 16

Warlock (ship) 27 water supply 43,56,57,72,79,84,99,100 Waterfall 16,44,46,61,65 Waters, G H 73 Waterworth 26 Wattaiolla boat harbour 39 Watta-Molee 1 Weaver, Williai 32 Webb, D J 52 Webb sisters 95 Weber, Carl 50 Weber's Lookout 50,68 Webster, J 98 Welch 47,60 Welch, Edwin Jaies 58 Welch, George 60 Welford Faiily 95 Wentworth, Mrs W C 104 Westiacott 44 Westiacott, Captain Robert Marsh 6,7,23,30 Westiacott's Pass 14,37 Wetherall, E MLA 97 whaling 3 Whitton, Engineer 81 Whitton, John 48 Whyalla 80 wildflowers 42,68,78 Wiley, W 15 Wiley, Williai 36 Williams, Miss S 97 Williais, W 13 Williais, W J 64 Wilson 37 Wilson and Walker 42 Wilson, D L 63 Wilson, F W 38 Wilson, Mrs 41 Wilson, W 10,55 Wilson, Williai 17 Wilson's Asseibly Rooi 37 Wilson's jetty 55 Winsor, Couissioner 81 Wisdoi, Sir Robert 17 Wogoian, John 50 Wollongong 2,5,9,23,25,26,29,31,38,41,78,79 Wollongong City Council 89 Wollongong harbour 2,9,14 Wollongong Town Hall 13 Wollongong Theatres 77 Woibarra 51,69,93 Woolcott-Waley 17 Woniora (ship) 32,33 Wonona 29 Woodlands 93 Woods, George 73 Woonona 4,5,7,17,24,25,28,29,30,36,37,38,39, 42,48,53-4,59,72,73,74,82,85,93,102,103 Woonona Agricultural Bureau 83

Woonona Bowling Club 55 Woonona bowling green 4 Woonona-Bulli RSL Club 85 Woonona Co-operative Store 92 Woonona East 93 Woonona Industrial Co-operative Society Ltd 55,74 Woonona Masonic Lodge 73 Woonona Mutual liproveient Society 54 Wonoona, Parish of 3 Woonona RSL Hall 80 Wonoona School of Arts 29,34,54,73,74,83 Woonona Surf Club 77 Woonona Workman's Club 54,105 Woodlands Creek 6 Woodlands Estate 6,30 Woodward, F 46,58 Workers' Clubs 105 Woronora Creaiery Coipany 56 Woronora Dai 99 Woronora River 40 Wright, Archbishop 74 Wright, Jaies 24 Wright, Williai 19 Wynn, E 94 Wynn, J 53 Wynn, John 29 Wynn, Mrs John 73 Wyewurk 71 Y Yass 3,6 Yeo, W 85 Youll, G C 63 Young, H S 70 Z Ziei's 36 Ziei's Estate 55 Ziei's paddock 59

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