Basic Clothing Guide for Dancers Shift: In the 18th Century, a woman would have worn a shift (chemise) under all her clothes whether it was her best gown or her every day work things. This helped protect the outer clothing from direct contact with the body since most people only had one or two different articles to change into. At night, after removing all outer garments, a shift is what a woman would also have slept in. Shifts are usually made of white linen, cotton, or cotton blend. They are not difficult to sew. There are patterns on line for free : http://www.marquise.de/en/1700/howto/frauen/18chemise.shtml for those who can draw patterns. You can also buy patterns or ready made shifts at Jas Townsend & Sons, Inc. http://jas-townsend.com or many of the other links on the dance site.

A good pattern to start with is Jas. Townsend's JR Women's Basic Six-Piece Wardrobe Pattern JR-705 Not only does it have a pattern for a shift, but also a petticoat, a short gown, a pocket, a fichu and an apron.

Stays: The next layer over the shift is the stays (corset). Although at first they are a little uncomfortable, this

is not the corset of "Gone with the Wind" fame, with lacing so tight you can't breathe. 18th century stays are cone-shaped with a flat front. The stays don't meet in the front, but usually have about one or two inches separating the two front openings. (always get stays that open in the front or make sure you have someone to lace you in and can get you out of them at the end of the day) Stays are purchased by bust measurement. To wear, position the stays up under the arm pits at the sides and the front edge up to the middle of the breasts. After lacing up the front, adjust your body and lacing to make the stays snug, but not too tight. Stays that meet in front are too big, will stretch and be uncomfortable to wear. Although many people don't buy stays at first, if you want a gown or fancier short jacket, you will need stays for the proper shape and fit. (Make sure you don't get the kind with straps, because they are very restrictive.) When just getting started, many people who wear short gowns or bed gowns (see below) wear Spanks or something similar under their clothing. I don't really recommend making stays, but if you are a very advanced sewer and want a challenge, I would suggest the J.P. Ryan stays pattern. Otherwise, just purchase at Jas. Townsend or at one of the other on-line sources. Petticoat: Over the stays come the petticoats (skirts) which are one of the easier things to make. Basically, they are just too pieces of 54" or 60" pieces of fabric sewn together with a drawstring. They should be hemmed from 2 inches above the floor to just above the ankle. If you want them to lay flat across the front, you can make small pleats. There are always openings left at the top of each side to access pockets which are worn under the petticoats. (see below) The woman in the picture (above) is wearing her petticoat under her stays which is also fine, but tends to create bulk. It was very common to wear layers of petticoats in the 18th century, especially in the winter. They are made of linen, wool, cotton or blends of any of them. If you use cotton, which was

not as popular at the time, choose a heavier weight, The finer, lighter cottons won't give you the look you want. Petticoats can be made or bought in assortment of colors and patterns, but the colors were generally less bright because of the natural dyes they used at the time. Patterns of stripes, checks and flowered prints were also popular, but are more difficult to choose if you are not familiar with the time period. Not all on-line sources or suttlers sell period accurate patterns. (Use the guide below as a reference or ask someone who knows.)

Short gown/bed gown: The last basic piece of clothing that you will need is a short gown or a bed gown. A short gown is a fitted top with scooped neck and three quarter sleeves. They never havebuttons, but are fastened down the front with long straight pins. A short gown can be made in linen, wool or cotton and are often made in solid fabrics. Bed gowns have shawl collars, are looser fitting and longer in length and can have cuffs on the sleeves.. They are more often made in patterned fabrics such as printed cottons and linens.

Other accoutrement: Caps: A cap is an essential piece of clothing for all dancers. In the 18th Century, all women wore their hair up for everyday wear. Since no one washed their hair regularly, a cap helped protected from dust and dirt. There are many, many styles of caps to choice from. They are usually made of fine white linen or cotton lawn or batiste. 18th Century-style sutlers (living history merchants) often carry a large variety of caps or they can be bought on line. They are also relatively easy to make. Kannik's Korner carries a pattern(Pattern KK-6602) that has several versions. Warning: The one style that wasn't worn was the mob cap ( a round piece of fabric gathered all around) This was more popular among maids of the Victorian period.

Fichu (scarf/neckchief): Since the neckline of 18th Century clothing can be low, women often wore fichus (also know as modesty pieces) to cover up. There are many beautiful fichus with lace and embroidery sold on-line and at reenactments, but a simple fichu can easily be made: Take a 36 inch square of light weight white linen or cotton fabric and cut in half diagonally. Hem all around. (colored fichus were also popular with work clothes) To wear, place the point of the triangle in back. Tuck in the ends down the front of the short gown or bed gown. Some people just fold a square of

fabric in half. This is okay, too, but tends to be bulky.

Pockets: Pockets were not sewn into the clothing, but were worn separately on a cord around the waist. Although women of the 18th Century carried their things in baskets, it was convenient to have pockets that were worn under the petticoats. They were accessed through the openings in the side seams of the petticoats. Pockets can be bought ready-made, or can be sewn. Many are beautifully embroidered and decorated even though they were not seen.

Shoes and stockings: Long socks, or stockings were always worn under clothing and kept up with garters or ribbons. Nowadays, there are many comfortable knee socks or tights available. Colors can be any of the colors that were used at the time. (see below) Stripes were also popular.

Traditionally, shoes were buckled with slightly pointed toe and small heels. Black or beige are the most commonly used colors. However, since shoes are more of an investment, dance shoes or other comfortable slip-ons can be worn instead.

Colors and Patterns: Since most of the dyes used in the !8th Century were made from natural substances, fabric colors often tended to be less vibrant. Any of the softer, more grayed hues are appropriate. There were brighter yellows, reds and blues, but no metallics or neon colors from synthetic dyes were available in the 18th Century. It is difficult to give every pattern and stripe, but popular prints are shown to give a general idea what is suitable. Stay away from large patterns such as cabbage roses and bouquets of flowers. Toile patterns are okay if you can find any with no people in them. When in doubt, get a solid in linen, wool, heavier cotton or a blend.

A final note: Although there are many wonderful on-line sources and sutlers at events, there are those who are also selling to the general public who are looking more for a costume type garment. Anything with a zipper, buttons or all-in-one outfits are not authentic. Buyer beware! When in doubt, refer to this guide or ask someone knowledgeable.