The plane that started it all, the Model Tech Magic is a classic among 3D enthusiasts. For today's pilot, Model Tech has updated this original Mark Leavesley design to incorporate everything the modeler has desired. First, we made it more easily electric compatible. A door on the bottom of the fuselage, in addition to the removable throttle servo tray, allow easy access to the battery. For the glow engine enthusiast, the firewall has been modified to make engine installation easier, including slots for the engine mounting screws that allow the installation of different width motors. We also upgraded the hardware with traditional pull/pull cables (not rods) for the elevator and rudder. We even made the wing bolt-on with nylon bolts threaded into hardwood, which is tapped at the factory. All this in a model that is now laser-cut for precision and covered with a new, more aggressive color scheme in high-quality Model Tech iron-on covering material. Model Tech engineers have been hard at work giving you a plane you know flies great, with the features you want, in a plane that is affordable and fun. Put some Magic in your flying with the Magic V2 from Model Tech.
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS features
Model Tech Co., Ltd. Hong Kong © 2007, Model Tech Co., Ltd. All Rights Reserved Version 2 October 2007
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Pre-Covered with Premium Model Tech Iron-On Covering Material
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Laser-Cut, Lightweight Balsa and Plywood Construction
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Proven Design
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Battery Door On Fuselage Bottom for Electric Flyers
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Adjustable Width Engine Mounting to Fit Different Size Engines
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Compatible with Glow Power or Electric Power
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Dual Aileron Servos and Pull-Pull Elevator and Rudder Cables
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Includes High-Quality Hardware
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Fast and Easy Assembly - Over 60 High-Resolution Digital Photos and Drawings
specifications Wing Span: 52 Inches (1321mm)
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Wing Area: 725 Square Inches (46.77dm2)
Weight RTF: 3 to 4.5 Pounds (1361 to 2041gr)
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Length: 44 Inches (1118mm)
Wing Loading: 9.5 to 14.3 Ounces/Square Foot (20.09 to 43.64gr/dm2)
Functions: Ailerons, Elevator, Rudder and Throttle
Engine Required: .36 - .46 Two-Stroke or .52 Four-Stroke
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Radio Required: 4-Channel or More w/5 Standard Ball Bearing Servos ESC Required: 60 Amp Brushless Made in China
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Motor Required: KMS Quantum 4120/05 Brushless Outrunner
Battery Required: 4 Cell 4000mAH LiPO
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Kit Product Number 123738 (MT3192A-1)
TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTION...................................................................................................... 2
ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION................................................. 22
SAFETY WARNING................................................................................................. 2
RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION.................................................... 25
OUR RECOMMENDATIONS - GLOW POWER SYSTEM....................................... 3
AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION................................................... 27
OUR RECOMMENDATIONS - ELECTRIC POWER SYSTEM................................ 4
FINAL ASSEMBLY.................................................................................................. 28
LIPO BATTERY WARNINGS................................................................................... 5
C/G AND BALANCING........................................................................................... 30
TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED...................................................................... 6
LATERAL BALANCING.......................................................................................... 30
A NOTE ABOUT COVERING MATERIAL................................................................ 6
AIRCRAFT SETUP INFORMATION....................................................................... 30
TIPS FROM THE PROS........................................................................................... 6
PREFLIGHT CHECK AND SAFETY...................................................................... 31
KIT CONTENTS....................................................................................................... 7
ELECTRIC CONVERSION INSTRUCTIONS......................................................... 32
WING ASSEMBLY.................................................................................................... 8
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST............................................................................... 34
WING MOUNTING..................................................................................................11
PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET.......................................................................... 35
STABILIZER INSTALLATION................................................................................. 13 TAIL SKID INSTALLATION..................................................................................... 16 LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION.......................................................................... 17 ENGINE INSTALLATION - GLOW VERSION ONLY.............................................. 18 THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION - GLOW VERSION ONLY...... 19 FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION - GLOW VERSION ONLY............ 21
INTRODUCTION Thank you for purchasing the Model Tech Magic 3D V2 ARF. We're confident that the quality of your new airplane meets and even exceeds your expectations. Before completing the final assembly of your new airplane, please carefully read through these assembly instructions in their entirety. Doing so will ensure your success the first time around! These assembly instructions are designed to guide you through the entire assembly process of your new airplane in the least amount of time possible. Along the way you'll learn how to properly assemble your new airplane and also learn tips that will help you in the future. We have listed some of our recommendations below. Please read through them before beginning assembly. Please read through each step before beginning assembly. You should find the layout very complete and straightforward. Our goal is to guide you through assembly without any of the headaches and hassles that you might expect. l
There are check boxes next to each procedure. After you complete a procedure, check off the box. This will help prevent you from losing your place. l
Keep a couple of small bowls or jars handy to put the small parts in after you open the accessory bags. l
We're all excited to get a new airplane in the air, but take your time. This will ensure you build a straight, strong and great flying airplane. l
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If you come across this symbol important point or an assembly hint. l
it means that this is an
Cover your work table with brown paper or a soft cloth, both to protect the table and to protect the parts. ●l
SAFETY WARNING This R/C airplane is not a toy! If misused or abused, it can cause serious bodily injury and/or damage to property. Fly only in open areas and preferably at a dedicated R/C flying site. We suggest having a qualified instructor carefully inspect your airplane before its first flight. Please carefully read and follow all instructions included with this airplane, your radio control system and any other components purchased separately. Page
OUR RECOMMENDATIONS - GLOW POWER SYSTEM FOR OUR ELECTRIC POWER SYSTEM RECOMMENDATIONS, PLEASE SEE THE NEXT SECTION. This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for your new airplane. Please read through this entire section very carefully. We have provided you with recommendations that, if followed, will result in a great flying airplane. Failure to follow our recommendations may result in a poor flying airplane. WHAT engine SHOULD I USE? The airplane can be flown using either a two-stroke or a four-stroke engine. We suggest using a .36 - .46 size two-stroke engine or a .52 size four-stroke engine. The airplane will fly great using any engine within the recommended size range, although for the best aerobatic performance we suggest using an engine at the upper end of the size range. For 3D flying, you'll get the best performance using a lightweight yet powerful engine, such as the Magnum XLS .46A twostroke engine matched with a large diameter, low pitch propeller, such as the APC 12.25 x 3.75 composite propeller. For the best flight performance, we suggest trying to keep the ready-to-fly weight of the airplane as light as possible. Using an engine that's bigger than recommended will only add extra weight to the airplane, negating any of the extra power from the larger engine. In most cases, you'll get better flight performance from a lightweight but powerful engine than from simply a higher displacement engine. Also, remember that the heavier the airplane the more stress that is applied to it during extreme aerobatic flight, which could result in failure of the airframe. If you're flying at higher altitudes, we recommend using an engine at the high end of the size range. what radio system and servos should i use? To get the most out of the airplane, we suggest using a four or more channel computer radio system with mixing capabilities. Since the ailerons use separate servos, they can be plugged separately into the receiver, allowing you the capability of flaperon and spoileron mixing, differential mixing and flaperon/spoileron to elevator mixing. The transmitter should also feature dual rates and exponential adjustments. Standard servos can be used on the flight-control surfaces, although we do recommend using the ball bearing type. For the elevator, you will need to use a low profile servo. For throttle control, a standard non-ball bearing standard servo can be used. We recommend using a Cirrus CS501 Ball Bearing Low Profile servo for elevator control and Cirrus CS601 Ball Bearing Standard servos for aileron, rudder and throttle control. Although you would lose mixing capabilities, the airplane can be flown using a basic four-channel radio control system. If you do this, you will need to use a servo Y-Harness to join the two aileron servos together. what other items do i need? There really isn't too much else that you'll need to finish the airplane. Most of the hardware is included, so about the only thing else you'll need is a spinner. You'll also need typical modeling supplies, such as foam rubber to protect your receiver and battery, and fuel tubing. Here's a List of What We used to finish the glow version shown in these instructions QTY. 1
Hitec Eclipse 7 FM Radio Control System
QTY. 1 115559 Thunderbolt # 3 High-Performance Glow Plug
QTY. 1 210756 Magnum XLS .46A Two-Stroke Engine
QTY. 1 115923 Global XX Silicone Fuel Tubing
QTY. 1 237153 Magnum 2-1/4" Diameter Chrome Spinner
QTY. 1 868638 Dubro 1/4" Protective Foam Rubber
QTY. 1 608684 APC 12.25 x 3.75 Composite Propeller QTY. 1 440501 Cirrus CS501 Low Profile Ball Bearing Servo QTY. 4 440601 Cirrus CS601 Standard Ball Bearing Servos
IMPORTANT The Cirrus servos are compatible with all receiver types. The Magnum spinner includes a 1/4" x 4mm adapter nut that fits any engine that uses a 1/4"-28 threaded crankshaft. Page
OUR RECOMMENDATIONS - ELECTRIC POWER SYSTEM This section describes our recommendations to help you in deciding which types of accessories to purchase for your new airplane. Please read through this entire section very carefully. We have provided you with recommendations that, if followed, will result in a great flying airplane. Failure to follow our recommendations may result in a poor flying airplane. WHAT power system SHOULD I USE? For the best flight performance, we suggest trying to keep the ready-to-fly weight of the airplane as light as possible. For the most power, lightest weight and best performance, we suggest using a direct drive, brushless Outrunner motor, such as the KMS Quantum 4120/05 brushless motor, APC 13 x 6 composite propeller, Castle Creations Phoenix 60 amp brushless ESC and Impulse Power 4C 4000mAH LiPO battery. This combination will provide ample power, resulting in great overall flight characteristics. l
KMS Quantum 4120/05 Brushless Outrunner Motor
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Castle Creations Phoenix 60A Brushless ESC
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APC 13 x 6 Composite Propeller
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Impulse Power 4C 4000mAH LiPO Battery
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Pro-Peak Quattro LiPO DC Charger
what radio system and servos should i use? To get the most out of the airplane, we suggest using a four or more channel computer radio system with mixing capabilities. Since the ailerons use separate servos, they can be plugged separately into the receiver, allowing you the capability of flaperon and spoileron mixing, differential mixing and flaperon/spoileron to elevator mixing. The transmitter should also feature dual rates and exponential adjustments. Most computer radio systems will include all these features, plus many more. For the elevator, you will need to use a low profile servo. For throttle control, a standard non-ball bearing standard servo can be used. We recommend using a Cirrus CS501 Ball Bearing Low Profile servo for elevator control and Cirrus CS601 Ball Bearing Standard servos for aileron and rudder control. Although you would lose mixing capabilities, the airplane can be flown using a basic four-channel radio control system. If you do this, you will need to use a servo Y-Harness to join the two aileron servos together. what other items do i need? There really isn't too much else that you'll need to finish the airplane. Most of the hardware is included, so about the only thing else you'll need is a spinner, hook and loop material, heat-shrink tubing, double-sided tape and high-quality connectors for your ESC, Motor and LiPO battery. Here's a List of What We used to finish the electric version shown in these instructions QTY. 1
Hitec Eclipse 7 FM Radio Control System
QTY. 1 158104 X'TRA 4mm Gold Connector Set
QTY. 1 108520 KMS Quantum 4120/05 Brushless Outrunner Motor
QTY. 1 869020 Dubro Double-Sided Tape
QTY. 1 759134 Hitec Electron 6 FM Receiver
QTY. 1 568906 Dubro Hook and Loop Material
QTY. 1 701459 Castle Creations Phoenix 60 Amp Brushless ESC
QTY. 1 867895 Dubro 1/4" Heat-Shrink Tubing
QTY. 1 609288 APC 13 x 6 Composite Propeller QTY. 1 866293 Dubro 2-1/4" Diameter Black Spinner QTY. 1 440501 Cirrus CS501 Low Profile Ball Bearing Servo QTY. 3 440601 Cirrus CS601 Standard Ball Bearing Servos QTY. 1 182278 Impulse Power 4C 4000mAH LiPO Battery QTY. 1 158370 Pro-Peak Quattro LiPO Charger
IMPORTANT The Cirrus servos are compatible with all receiver types. The Hitec Electron 6 FM receiver is negative shift that's compatible with Hitec and Futaba transmitters. This receiver is also available in positive shift mode for Airtronics and JR transmitters. The Electron 6 FM receiver requires a Hitec 72Mhz FM crystal purchased separately that's the same frequency as your transmitter.
FOR ELECTRIC POWER SYSTEM INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS, PLEASE SEE PAGE 32. Page
LIPO BATTERY WARNINGS WARNINGS AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS FOR ALL BRANDS OF LITHIUM POLYMER BATTERIES Please read and understand the warnings listed in this section. Make sure to read any and all warnings included in the packaging with your battery, too. If used improperly, lithium polymer batteries can be very dangerous, so please follow these warnings and suggestions at all times. This product may explode or catch fire. Serious injury can result from misuse. Serious injury, loss of property, fire and death can result from misuse of this product. l All instructions, warnings and cautions must be followed at all times. Failure to do so can lead to serious injury or fire. l Do NOT use this product before reading and understanding all directions and warnings. l
Do NOT overcharge. Maximum voltage for each pack must be followed. l Do NOT over-discharge. NEVER discharge below minimum volts. l
Do NOT discharge at a rate greater than the maximum continuous discharge. l Do NOT use or charge if the battery is hot. l ONLY use a charger made for Lithium Polymer batteries. l Do NOT charge at a rate higher than 1C. Example: if the battery’s rating is 340mAH, then the charger’s charge rate must be set at 340mAH or less. l Do NOT leave in direct sunlight or in a hot car or storage area. l Do NOT get wet or expose to moisture. l Do NOT short-circuit the battery. l ONLY discharge and charge the battery outdoors or in a firesafe container. l Do NOT charge with reverse polarity. l Do NOT leave the battery connected when not in use. l Do NOT operate or charge unattended. l Do NOT solder to the battery directly and do not get the battery hot in any way. l
CHARGING PRECAUTIONS FOR ALL BRANDS OF LITHIUM POLYMER BATTERIES l
Do NOT use the product if you do not understand the warnings and proper use of the product.
Always let the battery cool and "rest" between uses and charging. l To avoid over-discharging, only use a speed control that is made for LiPO batteries. l We recommend the use of a firesafe container when charging or storing. l Do NOT charge inside your car or inside your house. l Inspect the battery before each use for swelling or other malformation. If the cell has ballooned, it MUST be discarded. l Set the charger to 1C (charge at 1/2C or less for the first 5 cycles). l Check polarity and then connect battery to charger. l In use, do not over-discharge or exceed maximum discharge. l When handling the battery, remember not to poke, bend or damage the cell. The cell outer casing is soft and can be damaged. l Remember, the cells must never exceed 160 degrees Fahrenheit for any reason. l
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TOOLS AND SUPPLIES REQUIRED q 5 and 30 Minute Epoxy
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Thin and Thick C/A (Cyanoacrylate)
q Pencil
q C/A Debonder
q Airplane Stand
q Silicon Sealant
q T-Pins
q Flat Head Screwdriver
q Builder's Triangle
q # 1 and # 2 Phillips Head Screwdrivers
q 220 Grit Sandpaper with Sanding Block
q 2.5mm Hex Wrench
q Masking Tape
q 5.5mm Nut Driver
q Paper Towels
q Adjustable Wrench
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Wire Cutters
q Epoxy Mixing Sticks
q Needle Nose Pliers
q Epoxy Mixing Cups
q Modeling Knife
q Soldering Iron (for Electric Version)
q Scissors
q Solder (for Electric Version)
q Electric Drill
q Heat-Sealing Iron
q Assorted Drill Bits
q Heat Gun
A NOTE ABOUT COVERING MATERIAL The covering material used on your airplane is real iron-on, heat-shrink covering material. It is possible with heat and humidity changes that the covering material on your airplane may wrinkle or sag. This trait is inherent in all types of heat-shrink material. To remove any wrinkles that might be visible you will need to use a heat-sealing covering iron. Follow this simple procedure to remove the wrinkles: q Plug in and turn on the sealing iron to the medium-high temperature setting. Allow the sealing iron to heat up for approximately 5 - 7 minutes. q After the sealing iron has reached temperature, lightly apply the sealing iron to the wrinkled section of the covering material. Move the sealing iron slowly over the wrinkled section until the covering material tightens and the wrinkles disappear. IMPORTANT You will notice that the color of the covering material will darken when it is heated. When the covering material cools back down, it will return to its normal color.
+ If the color layer smears from any of the seams the temperature of the sealing iron is too hot.
Turn the temperature dial down and wait about 5 minutes for the sealing iron to adjust to the lower temperature. You can remove any excess color streaks using a paper towel soaked with a small quantity of acetone.
TIPS FROM THE PROS During the covering process, sometimes color may smear slightly from the seams. If you see any smeared colors on the covering material, it can be quickly removed by simply wiping it off with a paper towel and a small amount of acetone. l
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Make sure to test-fit the parts together before applying glue. This will ensure that the parts fit properly before gluing them together.
When gluing anything that has a smooth surface, it's important to lightly roughen the gluing surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper. This will allow the glue to stick better. Also, never glue directly to the covering material. Always remove the covering material from the gluing surfaces prior to gluing the parts together. l
When cutting away the covering material from the gluing surfaces, be careful to cut only through the covering material. Try not to cut down into the balsa structure because that can compromise the integrity of the airframe. l
We do not suggest storing your airplane in an extremely hot environment (like the back of your car in direct sunlight) for any length of time. The extreme heat could cause the covering material to wrinkle or sag and possibly damage the fragile components of the radio control system. l
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Epoxy can be cleaned up before it dries using rubbing alcohol and C/A can be cleaned up before it dries using C/A Debonder. Page
KIT CONTENTS Before you begin assembly, group the parts as we list them below. This will ensure that you have all of the parts before you begin assembly and it will also help you become familiar with each part. If you find any parts missing or damaged, please contact your local distributor, using the separate Customer Service Information sheet included with your kit. AIRFRAME ASSEMBLIES q (1) Fuselage q (1) Right Wing Panel with Aileron and Hinges q (1) Left Wing Panel with Aileron and Hinges q (1) Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator and Hinges q (1) Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder and Hinges
MAIN LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY q (1) Landing Gear Bracket q (2) Wheels q (4) Mounting Straps q (8) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws q (2) Wheel Spacers q (2) Wheel Collars q (2) M2 x 5mm Machine Screws
TAIL SKID ASSEMBLY q (1) Tail Skid q (2) Mounting Straps q (4) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws
ELEVATOR AND RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLIES q (2) Stranded Pull-Pull Cables q (4) Control Horns (May Differ from That Shown) q (4) Clevises q (4) Couplers with Z-Bends (2 Long and 2 Short) q (4) Threaded Couplers q (8) Flanged Crimp Collets q (8) M2 x 16mm Machine Screws (Quantity May Differ) q (8) M2 Hex Nuts (Quantity May Differ)
AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLY q (2) 3-1/8" (80mm) Threaded Pushrod Wires with 90º Bends q (2) Control Horns with Backplates q (2) Clevises q (2) Snap-Keepers q (6) M2 x 16mm Machine Screws
ENGINE MOUNT ASSEMBLY q (2) Engine Mounting Beams q (4) M3 x 18mm Machine Screws q (4) M3 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws q (4) M3 Lock Nuts q (4) M3 Blind Nuts q (12) M3 Flat Washers Page
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM ASSEMBLY q (1) 12-1/4" (311mm) Pushrod Wire with Z-Bend q (1) Adjustable Pushrod Connector Assembly
FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY q (1) 190cc Fuel Tank q (3) Aluminum Tubing q (1) Rubber Stopper q (1) Large Metal Plate q (1) Small Metal Plate q (1) Silicone Fuel Tubing with Clunk q (1) M3 x 18mm Machine Screw
MISCELLANEOUS PARTS q (1) Wing Joiner q (1) Throttle Servo Tray q (1) Wing-Screw Doubler q (2) Triangle Supports q (2) Balsa Support Sticks q (2) Wing Mounting Bolts q (2) M2 x 6mm Flange-Head Wood Screws q (1) Decal Set
WING ASSEMBLY You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (1) Right Wing Panel with Aileron and Hinges
q (1) Wing Joiner
q (1) Left Wing Panel with Aileron and Hinges You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: q 30 Minute Epoxy
q Pencil
q Thin C/A
q 220 Grit Sandpaper w/Sanding Block
q C/A Debonder
q Masking Tape
q # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Paper Towels
q Modeling Knife
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Electric Drill
q Epoxy Mixing Sticks
q 1/16" (1.6mm) Drill Bit
q Epoxy Mixing Cups
q Straight Edge Ruler
Step 1: hinging the ailerons IMPORTANT The hinges are preglued into only the control surfaces. You must still hinge the control surfaces to the flying surfaces. C/A-style hinges are used to hinge the control surfaces. These hinges are designed to be glued into place using thin C/A. Do not glue these hinges into place using any other type of glue, such as thick C/A or epoxy. Use of any adhesive other than thin C/A could result in failure of the hinges during flight. For flutter-free control surfaces and crisp control response, it is imperative that the hinges be glued in properly. This is achieved by having the correct hinge gap and using plenty of thin C/A glue. Poor hinge installation can lead to control surface flutter which can result in a catastrophic failure of the airframe. Page
q Working with one wing panel for now, remove the aileron from the wing panel, then push one T-Pin through the center of each of the four preinstalled C/A-style hinges. PRO TIP The T-Pins will set the proper hinge gap when you hinge the aileron to the wing panel.
IMPORTANT Do not hinge the aileron too tightly against the trailing edge of the wing panel. There needs to be a slight hinge gap (no more than the width of a T-Pin), so that the aileron can pivot far enough to achieve the suggested control throws.
q Push the aileron and hinges into the corresponding four hinge slots in the trailing edge of the wing panel. If you cannot push the aileron firmly up against the T-Pins, remove the aileron and cut the hinge slots in the wing panel deeper.
q Push the aileron firmly up against the T-Pins and double-check that there is no more than a 1/16" (1.5mm) wide gap between the tip of the aileron and the wing tip. q While holding the aileron tight against the T-Pins, pivot the aileron down 45º and apply 5-6 drops of thin C/A to the exposed area of each hinge, then turn the wing panel over and repeat for the other side of the hinges. q Allow the C/A to dry for about 15 minutes, then remove the T-Pins and pivot the aileron up and down several times to free up the hinges. When done, repeat the previous procedures to hinge the second aileron to the other wing panel. IMPORTANT Check the integrity of the hinges after the C/A fully cures by gently pulling on the ailerons. If one or more hinges feels loose, apply more C/A to the hinge(s) and allow it to completely cure. The last thing you want is for a hinge to come loose during flight.
Step 2: installing the aileron servos
q Cut away the covering material from over both the aileron servo mounting hole and the aileron servo lead exit hole in the bottom of one wing panel. The servo mounting hole is located 6-3/4" (171mm) out from the root end of the wing panel and 4-1/4" (108mm) in front of the aileron hinge line. The servo lead exit hole is located on the root end of the wing panel, 4-1/2" (114mm) in front of the trailing edge.
q Run the servo lead through the wing panel and out the servo lead exit hole. q Install the aileron servo into the mounting hole, making sure to drill 1/16" (1.6mm) diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws, then repeat the previous procedures to install the second aileron servo into the other wing panel. IMPORTANT The servo output shaft should be toward the trailing edge of the wing panel.
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Step 3: aligning the wing panels q Cut away the excess covering material that overlaps onto the root ribs of each wing panel, leaving about 1/16" (1.6mm) overlapped so it does not pull away. IMPORTANT It's very important to the integrity of the wing centersection joint that you remove as much covering material from the root ribs as possible. Do not omit this procedure or the wing center-section joint may fail during flight.
q Locate and draw a vertical centerline on one side of the wing joiner. IMPORTANT The wing joiner is straight. There is no top or bottom.
q Test-fit the wing joiner into each wing panel. It should slide easily into each wing panel, up to the centerline you drew. IMPORTANT When the wing joiner is installed, it should not fit tightly into the wing panels. It should actually be slightly loose. This will ensure that when you glue the wing joiner into place, epoxy can get into the joints between the wing joiner and the wing joiner mounting box. This will ensure the strongest joint possible.
+ If the wing joiner does not fit properly, use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to lightly sand the wing joiner until you are satisfied with the fit.
q Carefully slide both wing panels together with the wing joiner temporarily installed (without using glue).
q While holding the two wing panels together firmly, make sure that the wing panels are lined up at both the leading and trailing edges, then look carefully at the center-section joint: the wing panels should fit together tightly with few or no gaps in the joint. IMPORTANT If the wing panels do not fit together properly, remove the wing joiner and use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block to lightly sand the edges and tips of the wing joiner until you are satisfied with the fit. Remember, when the wing panels are pushed together, there should be few or no gaps in the center-section joint.
Step 4: joining the wing panels q When satisfied with the fit and alignment, pull the wing panels apart and remove the wing joiner. q Apply a strip of masking tape to the top and bottom edges of the root rib on each wing panel.
+ The masking tape will prevent excess epoxy from getting onto the wing panels when you join them.
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q Working with only one wing panel for now, apply a thin layer of 30 minute epoxy inside the wing joiner mounting box and to only half of the wing joiner. Make sure to cover the top and bottom, as well as the sides, and use enough epoxy to fill any gaps. WARNING Use only 30 or 45 minute epoxy to install the wing joiner and to join the wing panels together. Do not use 5 minute epoxy. It is not strong enough. If you use 5 minute epoxy, the wing will fail during flight. q Slide the wing joiner into the wing panel up to the centerline mark, then quickly remove any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and allow the epoxy to set up before proceeding. q After the epoxy has set up, test-fit both wing panels together again to double-check that they still fit together properly, then apply a thin layer to the exposed half of the wing joiner, the inside of the wing joiner box in the second wing panel, and the entire surface of both root ribs. Make sure to use enough epoxy to fill any gaps. IMPORTANT It is of the utmost importance to the integrity of the wing center-section joint that you apply a generous amount of epoxy to both root ribs and the wing joiner. Not using enough epoxy can result in wing failure during flight. q Slide the two wing panels together and realign them. Quickly wipe away any excess epoxy, using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol, and use pieces of masking tape to hold the two wing panels aligned until the epoxy fully cures.
Step 5: checking the wing center-section joint q Once the epoxy has fully cured, remove the masking tape and double-check the center-section joint. If any gaps are present, mix a small quantity of 30 minute epoxy and carefully fill any remaining gaps. IMPORTANT Do not omit this procedure. The wing panels should fit together tightly, but it's possible to have some small gaps that appear after the epoxy has cured. To make the wing center-section joint as strong as possible, it's important to fill any gaps.
WING MOUNTING You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (1) Fuselage
q (2) Wing Mounting Bolts
q (1) Wing-Screw Doubler You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: q Thin and Thick C/A
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Flat Head Screwdriver
q Pencil
q Modeling Knife
q Masking Tape
Step 1: Installing the wing-screw doubler
q Cut away the covering material from over the top and bottom of the two predrilled wing-screw mounting holes in the trailing edge of the wing. The holes are located 3/4" (19mm) in front of the trailing edge and 3/4" (19mm) out from the center-section joint.
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q Cut away the covering material from over the predrilled holes in the wingscrew doubler.
q Place the wing-screw doubler onto the top of the wing and align the predrilled holes in the wing-screw doubler with the predrilled holes in the wing. q While holding the wing-screw doubler in place, draw an outline around it onto the wing.
q Cut away the covering material from inside the outline you drew, then glue the wing-screw doubler to the wing.
Step 2: mounting the wing
q Apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into each threaded wing-screw mounting hole in the fuselage and allow the C/A to fully cure before proceeding. IMPORTANT The C/A will soak into the plywood, strengthening the threads. Do not omit this procedure.
q Place the wing into the wing saddle, push it forward completely, then push the trailing edge down into place.
q Align the holes in the wing with the threaded holes in the wing mounting block inside the fuselage. q Secure the wing into place, using two wing mounting screws.
+ Don't overtighten the screws. You don't want to crush the wing or break the screws off.
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STABILIZER INSTALLATION You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (1) Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator and Hinges
q (2) Triangle Supports
q (1) Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder and Hinges You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: q 5 and 30 Minute Epoxy
q Builder's Triangle
q Thin C/A
q 220 Grit Sandpaper with Sanding Block
q C/A Debonder
q Masking Tape
q Modeling Knife
q Paper Towels
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Rubbing Alcohol
q Pencil
q Epoxy Mixing Sticks
q T-Pins
q Epoxy Mixing Cups
Step 1: aligning the horizontal stabilizer
q Remove the elevator from the stabilizer and set it aside for now. q Cut away the covering material from over the top and bottom of the slot in the middle of the stabilizer.
q Measure and draw a centerline on the trailing edge of the stabilizer.
q Measure and draw a centerline on the bottom of the stabilizer mounting platform on the fuselage.
q Set the stabilizer onto the stabilizer mounting platform, then line up the centerline you drew on the stabilizer with the centerline you drew on the fuselage. q With the two centerline marks lined up and the trailing edge of the stabilizer even with the back edge of the fuselage, hold only the trailing edge of the stabilizer in position, using a T-Pin.
IMPORTANT The front of the stabilizer should be able to pivot from side to side and the back should stay firmly in place and aligned. The trailing edge should not be allowed to move from side to side. Page 13
q With the wing mounted to the fuselage, use a ruler to measure the distance between the tips of the stabilizer and the tips of the wing. Pivot the front of the stabilizer until both of these measurements are equal.
+ When both of these measurements are equal, you're assured that the stabilizer is square to the wing.
q When you're satisfied that the stabilizer is square to the wing, use a T‑Pin to hold the front of the stabilizer firmly in place and aligned.
q Look from the front of the airplane at both the wing and the stabilizer. When aligned properly, the stabilizer should be parallel to the wing. If the stabilizer is not parallel to the wing, you'll need to remove the stabilizer and sand down the higher side of the stabilizer mounting platform until you're satisfied with the alignment.
Step 2: installing the horizontal stabilizer
q Once you're satisfied with the alignment, draw a line on each side of the bottom of the stabilizer where it meets the fuselage.
WARNING When cutting through the covering to remove it in the next procedure, cut with only enough pressure to cut through only the covering itself. Cutting down into the balsa structure could weaken the stabilizer and cause it to fail during flight.
q Remove the stabilizer from the fuselage, then carefully cut away the covering material from inside the lines you drew. PRO TIP Use a heat-sealing iron to adhere the covering material down where you cut it. This will prevent it from loosening up and wrinkling.
q Apply a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy to the gluing surfaces on both the stabilizer and the stabilizer mounting platform. q Set the stabilizer into place and realign it, double-checking all of your measurements once more before the epoxy sets up. Quickly remove any excess epoxy and use T-Pins to hold the stabilizer in place and aligned until the epoxy has fully cured. q After the epoxy has fully cured, look closely at the glue joint. If there are any gaps between the stabilizer and the fuselage, fill them using 30 minute epoxy for added strength. Page 14
Step 3: hinging the elevator
q Hinge the elevator to the stabilizer, using the same techniques that you used to hinge the ailerons to the wing panels. Make sure that the tips of the elevator are even with the tips of the stabilizer. IMPORTANT Remember, use a T-Pin pushed through each hinge to set the correct hinge gap.
IMPORTANT After allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the elevator to check the integrity of the hinges. Apply more C/A to the hinge(s) if necessary.
Step 4: installing the vertical stabilizer
q Cut away the covering material from over the stabilizer mounting slot in the top of the fuselage. The mounting slot begins 5/16" (8mm) in front of the horizontal stabilizer and is 2-1/4" (57mm) long and 1/4" (6mm) wide.
q Push the stabilizer down into the mounting slot, then draw a line on each side of the stabilizer where it meets the top of the fuselage. Draw an outline onto the fuselage around the base of the stabilizer, too.
q Cut away the covering material from below both the lines that you drew on the stabilizer and from the base of the stabilizer, too. q Cut away the covering material from inside the outline that you drew on top of the fuselage.
q Glue the stabilizer into place, using a generous amount of 30 minute epoxy. IMPORTANT It's important that the vertical stabilizer be perpendicular to the horizontal stabilizer. Double-check this while the epoxy is setting up and curing.
q Glue one triangle support between each side of the stabilizer and the top of the fuselage. Again, make sure to cut away the covering material from the gluing surfaces to ensure a strong glue joint.
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Step 5: hinging the rudder q Hinge the rudder to the stabilizer, using the same techniques that you used to hinge the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer. Make sure that the tip of the rudder is even with the tip of the stabilizer and that the base of the rudder does not rub against the top of the horizontal stabilizer. IMPORTANT Remember, use a T-Pin pushed through each hinge to set the correct hinge gap.
IMPORTANT After allowing the C/A to fully cure, pull on the rudder to check the integrity of the hinges. Apply more C/A to the hinge(s) if necessary.
TAIL SKID INSTALLATION You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (1) Tail Skid
q (4) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws
q (2) Mounting Straps You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: q # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Modeling Knife
q Pencil
q Electric Drill
q Airplane Stand
q 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bit
Step 1: installing the tail skid
q Cut away the covering material from over the tail skid mounting hole in the bottom of the fuselage. The tail skid mounting hole is located 2-1/2" (64mm) in front of the back edge of the fuselage.
q Insert the 90º bend in the tail skid into the tail skid mounting hole. q Line up the tail skid so that it's straight, then place two mounting straps equally spaced apart over the tail skid and mark the locations of the four mounting holes onto the fuselage.
q Drill four 5/64" (2mm) diameter pilot holes into the fuselage at the marks you drew. q Install the two mounting straps, using four M3 x 12mm wood screws, to secure the tail skid into place.
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LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (1) Landing Gear Bracket
q (2) Wheel Spacers
q (2) Wheels
q (2) Wheel Collars
q (4) Mounting Straps
q (2) M2 x 5mm Machine Screws
q (8) M3 x 12mm Wood Screws
You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: q # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Electric Drill
q Pencil
q 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bit
q Airplane Stand
Step 1: installing the landing gear bracket IMPORTANT Make sure that when you install the landing gear bracket in the next few procedures that the landing gear legs are angled forward so that the wheels will be toward the front of the fuselage.
q Position the landing gear bracket on the bottom of the fuselage. When aligned properly, the front edge of the landing gear bracket should be positioned 5/8" (16mm) back from the front of the fuselage and the landing gear bracket should be centered between the fuselage sides.
q Position the four mounting straps over the landing gear wires (two at the front and two at the back), then mark the locations of the mounting screws onto the fuselage.
q Drill eight 5/64" (2mm) diameter pilot holes into the fuselage at the marks you drew. q Install the four mounting straps, using eight M3 x 12mm wood screws, to secure the landing gear bracket into place.
Step 2: installing the wheels
q Push one wheel spacer completely onto each axle.
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q Slide one wheel onto each axle, then secure the wheels into place, using two wheel collars and two M3 x 5mm machine screws.
+ Tighten the machine screws firmly, then double-check that both wheels spin freely.
IMPORTANT The recess in each wheel should be toward the inside.
ENGINE INSTALLATION - GLOW VERSION ONLY You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (2) Engine Mounting Beams
q (4) M3 Lock Nuts
q (4) M3 x 18mm Machine Screws
q (4) M3 Blind Nuts
q (4) M3 x 25mm Socket-Cap Screws
q (12) M3 Flat Washers You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
q Thick C/A
q Electric Drill
q # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q 5/64" (2mm) and 1/8" (3mm) Drill Bits
q 2.5mm Hex Wrench
q Straight Edge Ruler
q 5.5mm Nut Driver
q Pencil
Step 1: installing the engine mounting beams IMPORTANT The following procedures outline the installation of a two-stroke engine. Installing a four-stroke engine is the same, although you may need to install the engine further out on the engine mounting beams to accommodate the carburetor. q Use a dab of thick C/A to temporarily glue the engine mounting beams to your engine, making sure that both engine mounting beams are straight and even. PRO TIP Mount the engine as far forward as possible to ensure that the engine mounting beams remain square.
q Line up the engine mounting beams with the precut slots in the firewall and temporarily install the four M3 x 18mm machine screws, four M3 flat washers and four M3 blind nuts. q Carefully center the engine mounting beams over the precut slots and firmly tighten the four machine screws to draw the blind nuts into the back of the firewall.
Step 2: installing the engine q Install your spinner backplate (not included) onto your engine's crankshaft, using the propeller washer and nut included with your engine. q Measure the distance from the front of the fuselage side (not the firewall) to the back of the spinner backplate. Adjust the depth of the engine so that the measurement is 4-1/8" (105mm).
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q Mark the locations of the engine mounting holes onto the engine mounting beams. q Remove the engine and drill 5/64" (2mm) diameter pilot holes through the engine mounting beams at the marks you drew, then enlarge the pilot holes, using a 1/8" (3mm) diameter drill bit. IMPORTANT Be careful that you drill the holes straight down and not at an angle.
q Install the engine onto the engine mounting beams using four M3 x 25mm socket-cap screws, eight M3 flat washers and four M3 lock nuts.
+ Tighten the socket-cap screws and lock nuts firmly to hold the engine securely in place.
THROTTLE CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION - GLOW VERSION ONLY You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (1) 12-1/4" (311mm) Pushrod Wire w/Z-Bend
q (1) Throttle Servo Tray
q (1) Adjustable Pushrod Connector Assembly
q (2) Balsa Support Sticks
You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: q 5 Minute Epoxy
q Modeling Knife
q Thick C/A
q Electric Drill
q # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q 1/16" (1.6mm) and 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bits
q Wire Cutters
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Needle Nose Pliers
q Pencil
Step 1: installing the throttle servo
q Test-fit the servo tray into the fuselage, making sure that the back of the servo tray is pushed up against the center bulkhead and that the servo tray sits firmly on the two support rails. q When satisfied with the fit, epoxy the servo tray into place, then glue the two balsa support sticks to the top of the servo tray and to the fuselage sides.
q Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your throttle servo, making sure to install the collets with the flanges toward the bottom of the servo.
q Install the throttle servo into the plywood servo tray, making sure to drill 1/16" (1.6mm) diameter pilot holes for the servo mounting screws. IMPORTANT Note the orientation of the servo. When installed, the servo output shaft must be toward the back of the fuselage and the servo should be pushed up against the right side of the servo tray.
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Step 2: installing the throttle pushrod wire
q Remove the throttle arm from your engine and install the Z-Bend in the pushrod wire into the outermost hole in the throttle arm.
+ You may need to enlarge the hole in your engine's throttle arm, using a 5/64" (2mm) diameter drill bit, to accommodate the pushrod wire.
q Slide the pushrod wire through the predrilled hole in the firewall and the forward bulkhead, then reinstall the throttle arm onto your engine. You will need to make two bends in the pushrod wire so that it will line up with the throttle arm and prevent binding. q Open and close the carburetor several times to ensure that the pushrod wire does not bind.
Step 3: installing the adjustable pushrod connector
q Cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn. q Enlarge the hole in the servo arm that is 9/16" (14mm) out from the center of the servo horn, using a 5/64" (2mm) diameter drill bit.
q Install the adjustable pushrod connector onto the servo arm, making sure not to tighten the nut too tightly. You don't want the pushrod connector loose, but it should be able to rotate without binding. IMPORTANT To prevent the nut from loosening during flight, apply a drop of thin C/A to it. Allow the C/A to fully cure before proceeding.
q Connect your radio system and check that the throttle servo output shaft is rotating in the correct direction, then position the throttle control stick and the throttle trim lever to their lowest positions. q Slide the adjustable pushrod connector assembly onto the pushrod wire, then install the servo horn onto the servo, making sure that it's angled approximately 30 degrees from center. q While holding the carburetor fully closed (open for four-stroke engines), install and tighten the machine screw in the adjustable pushrod connector. IMPORTANT You will need to make two bends in the pushrod wire so that it will line up with the pushrod connector and prevent binding. q Cut away the excess pushrod wire, then install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw to hold the servo horn securely to the servo. q Open and close the throttle several times to ensure that the carburetor opens and closes completely and without binding. You may need to adjust your transmitter EPA settings to achieve perfect settings. Page 20
FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY AND INSTALLATION - GLOW VERSION ONLY You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (1) 190cc Fuel Tank
q (1) Small Metal Plate
q (3) Aluminum Tubing
q (1) Silicone Fuel Tubing with Clunk
q (1) Rubber Stopper
q (1) M3 x 18mm Machine Screw
q (1) Large Metal Plate You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: q # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Pencil
q Modeling Knife
q 220 Grit Sandpaper with Sanding Block
q Scissors
q Masking Tape
q Straight Edge Ruler
Step 1: ASSEMBLING THE RUBBER STOPPER IMPORTANT Discard the shortest aluminum tube, then use 220 grit sandpaper to lightly sand away any burrs that might be on the ends of the remaining two aluminum tubes. q Push the two aluminum tubes through the rubber stopper. q Slide the large diameter metal plate over the tubes at the front of the rubber stopper, and slide the small diameter metal plate over the tubes at the rear of the rubber stopper. q Measure the distance that the two aluminum tubes protrude from the front of the stopper assembly. This distance should be 3/8" (10mm). q Carefully bend the longer of the two aluminum tubes up at a shallow angle, being careful not to kink the tubing as you bend it. IMPORTANT When the stopper assembly is installed in the fuel tank, the top of the vent tube (the tube you just bent) should rest just below the top of the fuel tank. The top of the fuel tank is a shorter distance from the fuel tank opening than the bottom is.
q Secure one end of the silicone fuel tubing onto the end of the clunk. q Slide the silicone fuel tubing, with the clunk attached, onto the end of the aluminum fuel pick-up tube (straight tube). Adjust the length of the silicone tubing until the end of the clunk is 3-1/4" (83mm) back from the rear of the stopper assembly.
Step 2: INSTALLING THE RUBBER STOPPER ASSEMBLY q Push the metal neck-reinforcement ring over the neck of the fuel tank opening, then carefully push the stopper assembly into the fuel tank and rotate it until the aluminum vent tube rests just below the top of the fuel tank. When satisfied with the alignment, install and tighten the M3 x 18mm machine screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the fuel tank opening. IMPORTANT The top of the fuel tank is a shorter distance from the fuel tank opening than the bottom.
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q With the stopper assembly installed, double-check to make sure that the clunk can move freely inside the fuel tank. Ideally, the clunk should be about 1/4" (6mm) in front of the back of the fuel tank. This will ensure that the clunk can't get stuck in the fuel tank during flight. Also double-check that the end of the vent tube is just below the top of the fuel tank. PRO TIP Holding the fuel tank up to a bright light will allow you to see inside to double-check the correct position of the clunk and the vent tube.
Step 3: INSTALLING THE fuel tank
q Wrap the fuel tank in one layer of 1/4" (6mm) thick foam rubber, using strips of masking tape to hold the foam rubber in place.
q Cut two pieces of silicone fuel tubing (not included) to a length of 6" (152mm) and install them to the aluminum tubes at the front of the fuel tank. PRO TIP Mark the ends of the silicone tubing "vent" and "pick-up" so you don't confuse them when it comes time to connect them to the engine later on.
q Feed the ends of the fuel tubing through the predrilled hole in the firewall and slide the fuel tank into position, making sure that the stopper assembly lines up with, and is firmly pushed into, the predrilled hole in the firewall. IMPORTANT When you slide the fuel tank into position, make sure that the top of the fuel tank is toward the top of the fuselage.
IMPORTANT The back of the fuel tank should be angled down so that it won't interfere with the wing when it's installed. To keep the fuel tank from sliding backwards, use pieces of foam rubber wedged between the back of the fuel tank and the throttle servo tray. You may also mount your battery behind the fuel tank and use that, along with foam rubber, to hold the fuel tank in place.
ELEVATOR CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (1) Stranded Pull-Pull Cable
q (2) Threaded Couplers
q (2) Control Horns
q (4) Flanged Crimp Collets
q (2) Clevises
q (4) M2 x 16mm Machine Screws
q (2) Couplers with Z-Bends (Short)
q (4) M2 Hex Nuts You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
q Thin C/A
q 1/16" (1.6mm) and 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bits
q # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Needle Nose Pliers
q Pencil
q Modeling Knife
q Airplane Stand
q Electric Drill
q Masking Tape Page 22
Step 1: installing the elevator servo IMPORTANT Remember, you must use a low-profile elevator servo. A standard servo is too tall and will hit the bottom of the fuselage. q Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your elevator servo, making sure to install the collets with the flanges toward the bottom of the servo.
q Install the elevator servo into the rear servo mounting hole in the plywood servo tray, making sure to drill 1/16" (1.6mm) diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws. IMPORTANT When installed, the servo output shaft must be toward the front of the fuselage.
Step 2: installing the elevator control horns q Carefully cut away the lower-most clevis attachment hole in only one control horn. IMPORTANT This control horn will be mounted onto the bottom of the elevator. You must cut away the lower-most clevis attachment hole so that the control horn won't hit the fuselage when the elevator is deflected down.
q Position and mark the mounting hole locations for the control horn on the bottom of the elevator. When aligned properly, the centerline of the control horn should be centered between the fuselage sides and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of the control horn should be parallel to the hinge line, too.
q Drill 5/64" (2mm) diameter pilot holes through the elevator for the control horn mounting screws, then apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes and allow the C/A to fully cure.
+ The C/A will harden the surrounding wood, making the mounting area stronger.
q Install one control horn onto the top of the elevator and one control horn onto the bottom of the elevator, using four M2 x 16mm machine screws and four M2 hex nuts. q Cut the mounting screws off flush with the hex nuts, then apply a drop of thin C/A onto the hex nuts to prevent them from loosening during flight.
IMPORTANT Remember to install the modified control horn onto the bottom of the elevator. Page 23
Step 3: installing the elevator pull-pull cables
q Using a pair of wire cutters, carefully cut the stranded pull-pull cable exactly in half. q Slide one crimp collet, non-flanged side first, over one end of one cable.
IMPORTANT If the ends of the cable begin to unravel, use your fingers to twist the ends back into shape. q While holding the crimp collet in place so it doesn't slide off, carefully thread the same end of the cable through the hole in one threaded coupler. q Loop the cable around the coupler and slide the end of the cable back through the crimp collet. q Hold the short end of the cable with a pair of pliers and firmly slide the crimp collet forward so that the flange covers the end of the coupler, then firmly squeeze the crimp collet, using a pair of pliers, to lock the cable into place.
q Apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the crimp collet. The C/A will "wick" between the crimp collet and the cable, making the joint even stronger. Do not omit this procedure. q Repeat the previous procedures to install the second threaded coupler onto one end of the other length of cable.
q Cut 1/4" (6mm) off the end of each of the two threaded couplers to make them shorter. q Thread one clevis onto each of the two threaded couplers, then feed the plain end of each of the two lengths of cable through the elevator cable guides in the top and the bottom of the fuselage. q Snap each clevis into the outermost hole in the control horns.
q Cut away two arms from a "4-point" servo horn. q Enlarge the hole in each servo arm that is 3/4" (19mm) out from the center of the servo horn, using a 5/64" (2mm) diameter drill bit.
q Center the elevator servo, then install the servo horn onto the servo, making sure that it's centered. q Install the Z-Bend in each of the two short Z-Bend couplers into the hole in the servo arms that you enlarged, then install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw to hold the servo horn securely to the servo.
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q Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the elevator and the stabilizer, to hold the elevator centered. q Center the elevator servo, then attach the cable from the left side cable guide to the Z-Bend coupler on the left side of the servo arm, then attach the length of cable from the right side cable guide to the Z-Bend coupler on the right side of the servo arm, using the same techniques that you used to attach the threaded couplers. IMPORTANT Make sure that both lengths of cable are pulled tight. There should not be any slack in the cables. IMPORTANT Remember to apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the crimp collets to make the joints even stronger. q Remove the masking tape and double-check that both the servo horn and the elevator are still centered. If necessary, thread the clevises in or out to center the elevator, then move the elevator up and down several times to ensure proper movement. q Check the tension of the cables. To do this do the following: hold the elevator control stick all the way back. Let the control stick go and check to see if the elevator returns to center. Do this a couple of times in each direction. If the elevator does not come back to center, one or both cables are too tight. You can adjust the tension of the cables by adjusting the clevises. Ideally, the cables should be as tight as possible, while still allowing the elevator to center. The cables should not have slack in them, yet they should not be so tight that the linkage and/or the servo bind.
RUDDER CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (1) Stranded Pull-Pull Cable
q (2) Threaded Couplers
q (2) Control Horns
q (4) Flanged Crimp Collets
q (2) Clevises
q (4) M2 x 16mm Machine Screws
q (2) Couplers with Z-Bends (Long)
q (4) M2 Hex Nuts You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES:
q Thin C/A
q 1/16" (1.6mm) and 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bits
q # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Needle Nose Pliers
q Pencil
q Modeling Knife
q Airplane Stand
q Electric Drill
q Masking Tape
IMPORTANT The rudder control system is installed using the same basic techniques that you used to install the elevator control system. There are a couple of differences that are noted for you. Step 1: installing the RUDDER servo q Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto your rudder servo, making sure to install the collets with the flanges toward the bottom of the servo.
q Install the rudder servo onto the hardwood mounting blocks, making sure to drill 1/16" (1.6mm) diameter pilot holes for the mounting screws. IMPORTANT When installed, the servo output shaft must be toward the front of the fuselage.
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Step 2: installing the rudder control horns
q Cut away the covering material from over the two rudder cable exit slots in the top of the fuselage. One slot is located on each side of the vertical stabilizer, 1/8" (3mm) out from the edge of the triangle supports and 2-1/2" (64mm) in front of the rudder hinge line.
IMPORTANT It's not necessary to cut away the lower-most clevis attachment hole in either of the two control horns. q Install one control horn onto each side of the rudder, using the same techniques that you used to install the elevator control horns. The centerline of each control horn should be 1/2" (13mm) up from the bottom of the rudder (measured at the hinge line) and the clevis attachment holes should be lined up over the hinge line. The base of both control horns should be parallel to the hinge line, too. IMPORTANT Remember to apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into the mounting holes to reinforce the surrounding wood. IMPORTANT Make sure to apply a drop of thin C/A to each of the four hex nuts to lock them into place.
Step 3: installing the rudder pull-pull cables
q Cut the stranded pull-pull cable exactly in half, then install one threaded coupler onto one end of each length of cable, using the same techniques that you used to install the threaded couplers onto the two lengths of elevator pull-pull cable.
q Cut 1/4" (6mm) off the end of each of the two threaded couplers to make them shorter. q Thread one clevis onto each of the two threaded couplers, then feed the plain end of each of the two lengths of cable through the rudder cable guides in the top of the fuselage. q Snap each clevis into the outermost hole in the control horns.
q Cut away two arms from a "4-point" servo horn. q Enlarge the hole in each servo arm that is 3/4" (19mm) out from the center of the servo horn, using a 5/64" (2mm) diameter drill bit.
q Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the rudder and the stabilizer, to hold the rudder centered, then center the rudder servo and install the servo horn onto the servo, making sure that it's centered. Install and tighten the servo horn retaining screw to hold the servo horn securely to the servo. Page 26
q Install the Z-Bend in each of the two Z-Bend couplers into the hole in the servo arms that you enlarged, then attach the cables to the Z-Bend couplers, using the same techniques that you used to install the elevator cables to the Z-Bend couplers. IMPORTANT Make sure that both lengths of cable are pulled tight. There should not be any slack in the cables. Also remember to apply a couple of drops of thin C/A to the crimp collets to make the joints even stronger. q Remove the masking tape and double-check that both the servo horn and the rudder are still centered. If necessary, thread the clevises in or out to center the rudder, then move the rudder right and left several times to ensure proper movement. q Check the tension of the cables. To do this do the following: move the rudder control stick to one side. Let the control stick go and check to see if the rudder returns to center. Do this a couple of times in each direction. If the rudder does not come back to center, one or both cables are too tight. You can adjust the tension of the cables by adjusting the clevises. Ideally, the cables should be as tight as possible, while still allowing the rudder to center. The cables should not have slack in them, yet they should not be so tight that the linkage and/or the servo bind.
AILERON CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (2) 3-1/8" (80mm) Threaded Pushrod Wires with 90º Bends
q (2) Snap-Keepers
q (2) Control Horns with Backplates
q (6) M2 x 16mm Machine Screws
q (2) Clevises You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: q Thin C/A
q 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bit
q # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Needle Nose Pliers
q Pencil
q Modeling Knife
q Masking Tape
q Electric Drill
Step 1: installing the aileron control Horns q Install one control horn onto the bottom of each aileron. Make sure that the centerline of each control horn is 5-1/4" (133mm) out from the inside edge of the ailerons (measured at the hinge line) and that the clevis attachment holes are lined up over the hinge lines. The base of each control horn should be perpendicular to the hinge line, too. IMPORTANT Remember to apply a couple of drops of thin C/A into the mounting holes to reinforce the surrounding wood.
Step 2: installing the aileron control linkage assemblies
q Cut away all but one arm from a "4-point" servo horn. q Enlarge the hole that is 3/4" (19mm) out from the center of the servo horn, using a 5/64" (2mm) diameter drill bit.
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q Install the 90º bend in the pushrod wire into the hole that you enlarged in the servo arm, using one snap-keeper.
+ The pushrod wire should be orientated on top of the servo arm.
q Center the aileron servo, then install the servo horn onto the servo, making sure that the servo horn is centered and pointing out toward the wing tip. q Install the servo horn retaining screw to secure the servo horn to the servo.
q Use a couple of pieces of masking tape, taped between the aileron and the wing panel, to hold the aileron centered.
q With both the servo horn and the aileron centered, thread one clevis onto the pushrod wire and snap the clevis into the outermost hole in the control horn.
q Remove the masking tape and double-check that both the servo horn and the aileron are still centered. If necessary, thread the clevis in or out to center the aileron, then move the aileron up and down several times to ensure proper movement. Repeat the previous procedures to install the second aileron control linkage assembly. IMPORTANT If you will be flying your airplane using a non-computer radio system without mixing capabilities, you will need to plug a Y-Harness into the two aileron servo leads at this time. This will allow both aileron servos to be plugged into the aileron channel in your receiver. If you will be flying your airplane using a computer radio with mixing capabilities, you may want to plug each aileron servo lead into your receiver separately (into Ch. 1 and Ch. 6) to take advantage of your radio's mixing capabilities.
FINAL ASSEMBLY You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (2) M2 x 6mm Flange-Head Wood Screws
q (1) Decal Set
You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: q # 1 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Straight Edge Ruler
q Modeling Knife
q Pencil
q Scissors
q Airplane Stand
q Electric Drill
q Masking Tape
q 1/16" (1.6mm) & 5/64" (2mm) Drill Bits
Step 1: applying the decals q Using a clean cloth, wipe the airframe down completely to remove any dust, debris and oil, then cut out each of the decals and apply them using the box cover photos for reference. If any air bubbles form under the decals when you apply them, use a T-Pin to puncture the air bubbles and release the trapped air, then press the decal down. Page 28
Step 2: installing the fuselage hatch cover IMPORTANT The hatch cover is provided for electric fliers to access their LiPO motor battery. If you're using a glow engine in your Magic V2 aircraft, we strongly suggest gluing the hatch cover securely to the fuselage. If you do decide to use the hatch cover, please make sure not to mount anything directly to it (like your receiver or battery). It is not a structural part of the fuselage. q Set the hatch cover into place and drill two 1/16" (1.6mm) diameter pilot holes through the rear corners of the hatch cover. Position the pilot holes 1/8" (3mm) in from the corners of the hatch cover. IMPORTANT Apply a few drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes to strengthen the surrounding wood. This will ensure that the wood screws won't loosen over time.
q Secure the hatch cover into place, using two M2 x 6mm flange-head wood screws.
Step 3: installing the receiver, battery and switch harness q Wrap the receiver and battery in foam rubber to protect them from vibration. Use masking tape or rubber bands to hold the foam rubber in place. Do not wrap the foam rubber too tightly or the vibration dampening quality will be reduced. q After you've found the final location of the receiver and battery, mount them into the fuselage using your favorite method. The easiest method is to simply sandwich them in place using pieces of foam rubber.
+ We mounted the receiver battery behind the fuel tank and mounted the receiver next to the throttle servo.
WARNING Make sure that your receiver and battery can't come out should the hatch cover ever come loose. Cut Remove This Portion
Servo Horn
Rubber Band
Antenna Modified Servo Arm
To Tail Skid
q After installing the receiver, run the antenna out the bottom of the fuselage and secure it to the tail skid, using a rubber band and an antenna mount made from an extra servo horn. q Mount the switch to the fuselage side and connect the battery lead to the switch, and the switch and servo leads to the receiver.
Step 4: installing your engine accessories
q Install the muffler onto your engine, then connect the fuel lines from the fuel tank to your engine's carburetor and muffler. q Install your propeller and spinner.
Page 29
C/G AND BALANCING IMPORTANT It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly. Incorrectly balancing your airplane can cause your airplane to lose control and crash! Balance Point (C/G): l
4-1/2" (114mm) back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the fuselage sides.
IMPORTANT Balance the airplane with the fuel tank empty. If you have installed an electric power system, balance the airplane with the battery installed.
+ Once you have flown and become familiar with the flight characteristics of the airplane, the C/G can be moved fore or aft to change the flight performance. Moving the C/G back will cause the airplane to be more responsive, but less stable. Moving the C/G forward will cause the airplane to be more stable, but less responsive. For 3D flying you can move the balance point back in small increments until you're satisfied with the result. be aware that moving the balance point back too far can result in an uncontrollable airplane!
LATERAL BALANCING Lateral balancing will make the airplane's controls easier to trim and will make the airplane track straighter in the air. It is strongly recommended. q Turn the airplane upside down and tie one length of string to the propeller shaft and loop a second length of string around the tail U-Shaped bend in the tail skid. q With someone helping you, carefully lift the airplane up by the two pieces of string. Watch how the wing reacts. If one side of the wing drops, that side is heavier than the other. To correct this condition, stick a small piece of self-adhesive lead weight to the bottom of the lighter wing half (the one that doesn't drop). For best mechanical advantage, place the weight as close to the wing tip as possible, but make sure to apply the lead weight to a solid portion of the wing structure so that it can't rip off during flight. q Repeat the procedure a couple of more times to double-check your findings. When done properly the wing should stay level when you lift the airplane.
AIRCRAFT SETUP INFORMATION CONTROL THROWS We recommend initially setting up the airplane using the Test Flying/Sport Flying control throws. These control throws are suggested for initial test flying because they will allow the airplane to fly smoother and make it easier to control. These control throws are also good for general sport flying. For 3D flying, increase the control throws to your own desired amount. TEST FLYING / SPORT FLYING
3D FLYING
Ailerons: 1" (25mm) / 1-3/8" (35mm) Up and Down
Ailerons:
As Much As Possible Up and Down
Elevator: 1" (25mm) / 1-3/8" (35mm) Up and Down
Elevator:
As Much As Possible Up and Down
Rudder:
Rudder: As Much As Possible Right and Left
3-1/8" (80mm) / 4-1/4" (110mm) Right and Left
The control throws are measured from the widest point of the control surfaces VERY IMPORTANT After you are finished adjusting the pushrods and control throws, we strongly suggest installing 3/8" (10mm) long pieces of fuel tubing over the clevises and snap-keepers to lock them into place. VERY IMPORTANT We do not suggest increasing the control throws beyond the recommended Sport Flying control throws unless you are a proficient flyer. Higher control throws will cause the airplane to be extremely control-sensitive and result in a possible crash if you are not careful. Page 30
EXPONENTIAL Expo, as it's more commonly referred to, softens the control feel around neutral. This is especially helpful when flying an airplane that uses a lot of control throw. Softening the neutral point makes the airplane fly more smoothly and makes it more likely that you won't over-control. Please note that different brands of radio control systems may call for + or - Expo. Please check your transmitter's owners manual for more info. Obviously, you may want to change the expo settings to suit your flying style, but here are our suggestions to start: TEST FLYING / SPORT FLYING
3D FLYING
Ailerons......... 25%
Ailerons..........35%
Elevator......... 25%
Elevator..........35%
Rudder........... 25%
Rudder............35%
THROTTLE MANAGEMENT It is very important that you understand throttle management. Basically, this means no full throttle dives. Full throttle dives should be avoided so as not to cause control surface flutter and/or airframe failure. When the nose of the airplane drops, decrease the throttle, just as in full-scale aerobatics.
PREFLIGHT CHECK AND SAFETY l
Completely charge the transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.
Check every bolt and every glue joint in the airplane to ensure that everything is tight and well-bonded. This should include all of the control surface hinges as well. l
l
Double-check that you've installed and tightened all of the servo horn retaining screws.
Double-check that the receiver and battery are properly secured into place. There's nothing worse than the battery pack coming loose during flight. l
l
Double-check that the fuel tank is properly secured to the fuselage.
l
Double-check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the fuel tank empty.
l
Check the control surfaces. They should all move in the correct direction and not bind.
Make sure that you've installed heat-shrink tubing over the clevises and snap-keepers to prevent any chance of them opening during flight. l
If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches, double-check that they are on the low-rate setting for your first few flights. l
l
Check to ensure that all of the control surfaces are moving the proper amount in both low and high rate settings.
Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage. Do not cut the receiver antenna shorter or the range of your radio control system will be greatly reduced. l
Properly balance the propeller. A propeller that is out of balance will cause excessive vibration, which could lead to engine and/or airframe failure, and it will reduce engine efficiency and power. l
l
Double-check that the propeller nut(s) is/are tightened securely and that the spinner cone retaining screws are tight.
l
Double-check that no part of the spinner touches the propeller. You may need to enlarge the spinner cutouts to fit.
You should complete a successful range check of your radio equipment prior to each new day of flying, or prior to the first flight of a new or repaired model. l
l
You should perform your initial turn after take- off away from the flight line and/or spectator area.
You should not knowingly operate your R/C radio system within 3 miles of a preexisting model club flying field without a frequency sharing agreement with that club. l
While flying, you should not deliberately fly behind the flight line. If your model should inadvertently fly behind the flight line, you should change course immediately. l
Page 31
ELECTRIC CONVERSION INSTRUCTIONS IMPORTANT This section describes the installation of a brushless Outrunner power system that is mounted directly to the firewall. This power system features the KMS Quantum 4120/05 Brushless Outrunner motor, Castle Creations Phoenix 60 Brushless ESC and the Impulse Power 4C 4000mAH LiPO battery. These instructions are general in nature, but should be similar for most brushless Outrunner power systems. Your particular power system may come with mounting hardware, but if not, some of the hardware included with the Magic 3D V2 ARF can likely be used. If not, you will need to purchase mounting hardware separately for your particular application. You'll Need the following parts FROM THE KIT: q (4) M3 x 18mm Machine Screws
q (4) M3 Flat Washers
q (4) M3 Blind Nuts You'll Need the following TOOLS AND SUPPLIES: q # 2 Phillips Head Screwdriver
q Pencil
q Wire Cutters
q Airplane Stand
q Modeling Knife
q Masking Tape
q Scissors
q Soldering Iron
q Electric Drill
q Solder
q 1/8" (3mm), 1/4" (6mm) & 5/16" (8mm) Drill Bits
q Heat Gun
q Straight Edge Ruler
Step 1: installing the motor
q Draw a horizontal centerline and a vertical centerline on the firewall to help you line up your motor. IMPORTANT The motor will be installed in the center of the firewall and the back of the motor shaft will fit in the middle of the precut fuel tank stopper hole.
q Install your motor's motor mounting plate and propeller adapter using the hardware provided with your motor.
q Align your motor using the two centerlines that you drew. The center of the motor should be lined up over the two centerlines. IMPORTANT You may need to rotate the motor so that the precut mounting slots in the firewall don't interfere with your motor mounting holes. q When satisfied with the alignment, mark and drill mounting holes through the firewall, then install your motor using M3 x 16mm machine screws, M3 flat washers and M3 blind nuts. IMPORTANT Using the power system that we suggest, the motor can be mounted flush to the firewall and still allow the airplane to balance without needing to add nose weight. If your particular motor is lighter, or your power system differs from what's suggested, it may be necessary for you to mount the motor further forward, so that the airplane will balance without needing to add nose weight. Page 32
q After installing your motor, drill a 1/4" (6mm) tall slot in the bottom of the firewall to run the motor leads through.
Step 2: installing the electronic speed control
q Mount your ESC to the side of the fuselage using a piece of double-sided foam tape (not included). q If your ESC features an on/off switch, mount it to the fuselage side.
Step 3: installing the receiver
q Plug the servo and ESC leads into their proper slots in your receiver, then mount your receiver to the side of the fuselage (opposite the ESC) using a piece of double-sided foam tape (not included).
Cut Remove This Portion
Servo Horn
Rubber Band
Antenna Modified Servo Arm
q After installing the receiver, run the antenna out the bottom of the fuselage and secure it to the tail skid using a rubber band and an antenna mount made from an extra servo horn.
To Tail Skid
Step 4: installing the battery
q Mount the battery to the fuselage floor, directly behind the motor, using two pieces of hook and loop material (not included) attached between the battery and the two plywood landing gear bracket mounting plates .
IMPORTANT Mount the battery as far forward as possible, but make sure that the battery does not rub against the back of the motor shaft. Page 33
Step 5: final assembly
q Install your propeller and spinner onto your motor.
IMPORTANT Make sure to tighten the propeller nut firmly and double-check that no portion of the spinner cone rubs against the propeller. It's also a good idea to balance the propeller before installing it.
q Drill a series of 5/16" (8mm) diameter holes across the top of the firewall to allow cool air into the fuselage to cool the battery and the ESC.
q Cut two 1" (25mm) diameter holes in the hatch cover to allow warm air to exit. q Install the hatch cover onto the fuselage. Refer to step 2 on page 29 for installation instructions.
IMPORTANT Before installing the hatch cover, apply a few drops of thin C/A into the pilot holes to strengthen the surrounding wood. This will ensure that the wood screws won't loosen over time. WARNING Make sure that your receiver and battery can't come out should the hatch cover ever come loose.
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST When it comes time to order replacement parts, we recommend ordering directly from your local hobby retailer. If your hobby retailer does not stock Model Tech products, you can order replacement parts directly from your local distributor, using the Customer Service Information Sheet included with your kit. Instruction Manual............................................................115542
Landing Gear Set.............................................................115546
Wing Set...........................................................................115543
Fuel Tank - 190cc.............................................................115547
Fuselage Set....................................................................115544
Hardware Set...................................................................115548
Stabilizer Set....................................................................115545 Page 34
PRODUCT EVALUATION SHEET Telling us what you like and don't like determines what model kits we make and how we make them. We would appreciate it if you would take a few minutes of your time to answer the following questions about this kit and your modeling interests. Simply fold this form on the dotted lines, seal with tape and mail it to us. Do not use staples and make sure our address faces out. Global Hobby Distributors will not disclose the information it collects to outside parties. Global Hobby Distributors does not sell, trade, or rent your personal information to others. Your privacy is important to us. 7) Was any of the assembly difficult for you? If yes, please explain. q Yes q No ________________________________________________
1) Kit: Model Tech Magic 3D V2 ARF # 123738 (MT3192A-1) 2)
Where did you learn about this kit? q Magazine Ads q Friend q Hobby Shop q Other q Internet
3)
What influenced you the most to buy this kit? q Magazine Ads q Price q Type of Model q Box Art q Recommendation q Other q Internet
________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________
8)
What did you like most about this kit? q Assembly Manual q Parts Fit q Hardware Supplied q Price q Other
4) Did you have any trouble understanding the written instructions? If 9) yes, please explain. q No q Yes
________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________
________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________ ________________________________________________
6)
Were any of the kit parts: q Damaged q Missing
_______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________
11) How does this kit compare to similar kits by other manufacturers? q Better q As Good
q Wrong Size q Wrong Shape
If you checked any of the boxes above, did you contact our Customer Service Department to resolve the problem? q Yes q No
What is Your Age Group: q 10 & Under q 11 - 20
q 21 - 30
How Many Years Have You Been in the Hobby? q Less than 1 q 2 - 4 q 5 - 7
10) Are you satisfied with the finished model? If no, please explain. q Yes q No
5) Did you have any trouble understanding any of the photographs? If yes, please explain. q Yes q No
What did you like least about this kit? q Assembly Manual q Parts Fit q Hardware Supplied q Price q Other
QC #
q 31 - 40
q 41 - 50
q 51 - 60
q 61 - 70
q 8 - 10
q 11 - 15
q 16 - 20
q 20 or More
How Many Models Have You Purchased In the Last Year? q 0 - 1 q 2 - 4 q 5 - 7 q 8 - 10
q 71 +
q 10 or More
Please List any Other Modeling Interests or any Additional Information about This Product: ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Page 35
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Page 36
