SW 440

W I L D L I F E P R O J E C T

February 2001

Archery INTRODUCTION Archeologists estimate that bows and arrows have been in use at least 50,000 years and maybe longer. The bow was one of the first weapons used as a means of protection and hunting and is still used in many countries today as a means of acquiring food. Interest in archery has grown recently in this country. Today many enjoy bow hunting in addition to target and field archery. Archery is a very healthful and enjoyable project. It gets one outside and helps to develop arm, back and neck muscles without being overly strenuous. Any 4-H member can enroll in this project, regardless of age or sex. The archery project gives the beginner some of the basic fundamentals of the sport. It will offer those with some experience some of the finer points on how to improve target scores, and will enrich their overall enjoyment. Archery is fun, but it can be dangerous. Since people do hunt with the bow and arrow, we know it can kill; so you must be careful! Think of the bow and arrow as if it were a loaded firearm! SELECTING YOUR EQUIPMENT Bow: You should consider several factors upon selecting your bow. Bows are made of wood, fiberglass, land metal (aluminum or steel). Perhaps a solid fiberglass bow is best for the beginner. The beginner should be careful to select the correct weighted bow. A bow weight of 15-22 pounds would ordinarily be sufficient for younger members from 9-11 years old. A member 12-14 years old should be capable of using a 25-30 pound bow. Older members, especially boys past 14 years of age, should be able to handle a 35-40 pound bow. Obviously, these age-range and bowweight figures are guidelines; each boy or girl should use a weight that is comfortable. Start with a lighter pull and work up. Most

states have minimum bow weights for hunting. Check your state bow hunting regulations before buying a hunting bow. There are basically three types of bows-straight, recurved and compound. The straight bow is now confined almost entirely to the toy-type bows. The principles of archery apply equally to all three types of bows. When your bow is not in use, unstring it. Store in a cool, dry place. Do not stand it up; instead, hang it or lay it flat. Give it an occasional coat of wax. Be careful of scratches which may result in splinters and eventually a broken bow. Replace worn bowstrings. Do not allow yourself or others to draw your bow farther than the normal distance. This could result in injury and a broken bow. Follow proper techniques of stringing the bow. Recurved bows can become twisted if they are not strung correctly. There are advantages and disadvantages in using a compound bow. You may want to discuss these with another hunter or a bow dealer. Arrows: A sample of the different types of arrows is shown in Illustration 3. Target, field and hunting types are commonly made from wood (Port-Oxford Cedar). More expensive arrow shaft materials include fiberglass and aluminum. The beginner should start out with wood and progress to the more expensive arrows as his or her accuracy improves.

Essential equipment for target archery: Bow on left is solid fiberglass recommended for beginners. Bow on right is recurved recommended for advanced archers. Other equipment placed between the two bows includes, from top to bottom: finger tab, arm guard and quiver. Today arrows are mostly three-feather constructed. Two feathers are the same basic color (hen feathers), with one feather being brighter. The odd-colored one is the cock feather and points outward toward the shooter when nocked (fitted to the bowstring). When you are selecting your arrows, consider the size (or weight) of your bow and the length of the arrow. The spine of your arrow should be equal to the bow weight. By holding an arrow or a yardstick on your neck with arms extended forward, the length of the arrow can be determined from your fingertips to your neck. Most archery equipment dealers have your correct size. After using your arrows, check them for damage. If arrows are splintered, destroy them. An ordinary rough place can be lightly sandpapered and repolished or waxed. To restore crushed feathers, twirl

Types of arrows, tips and fletching (left to right); (1) multiple fletching with target tip, (2) standard fletching with target tip, (3) long standard fletching with field tip, (4) long standard fletching with hunting point, (5) flu-flu fletching with hunting tip. them over a steam pot. This will usually put them back in shape. Roughened feathers can be trimmed. Blunted arrowheads should be resharpened. Store in a moderate temperature. Special boxes can be used for storage. Arrows can be hung by the head for drying and storage. Arm Guard: The arm guard protects the arm from the bowstring return while shooting. It provides a smooth surface for the string to strike, preventing the arrow from flying improperly. Finger Guard (Tab) and Shooting Glove: The finger guards, or shooting glove, protect the three “shooting” fingers and provide for a smooth release. Quivers: The quiver is used to hold or carry the arrows. Some common types are: ground, bow,

Quivers (left t right): (1) ground (2) pocket (3) hip (4) belt. pocket, hip and belt, all of which are displayed in Illustration 5. Targets: Targets can be purchased or you can make them by drawing concentric circles and painting between the circles with a water-base paint on a piece of cardboard. The target should be placed on sturdy bales of straw or similar material for backing. Bowstrings: There is a tremendous force on the bowstring, especially the heavier bows. Be sure to get the correct string for the bow weight and bowstring length, and replace worn or frayed bowstrings. Backstops: Choose a natural flat area with an upward slope behind the target. This is important for the beginner, because lack of experience in aiming will tend to make him shoot a lot of stray arrows. Three bales of straw fastened together directly in front of an earth bank will make a good backing. KNOW THE RULES OF SAFE ARCHERY! 1. Treat your bow and arrow as a firearm (with respect). 2. Never shoot an arrow straight up. 3. Do not point an arrow at another person. 4. Shoot proper-size arrows for the bow used (for example, a heavy spined arrow in a heavy bow).

5. Always shoot at a definite target. Do not shoot toward house, highways, livestock, or where there are people. 6. When target shooting, do not retrieve your arrows until the area is clear. 7. Do not try to be a William Tell and shoot an apple off a person’s head or at anything else they may be holding. 8. Never shoot a damaged, weakened arrow. Destroy it! 9. Replace bowstrings when they become worn. 10. Always wear an arm guard and finger tab (or shooting glove). 11. Never make a full draw with your bow on a cold day without several partial draws first. A sudden jerk could snap the bowstring. 12. Never draw and release the bow without an arrow in it. 13. Unstring your bow when it is not in use for any lengthy period of time. 14. Never play around with your bow and arrows. 15. When in doubt of your target, your equipment, or your procedure, do not shoot! USING YOUR EQUIPMENT You are now familiar with some of the safety rules and the selection and care of equipment. Before beginning to use your equipment, you should know these additional safety measures. STRINGING OR BRACING THE BOW 1. Step-Through: Place the bowstring in the lower nock. Step through the bow and string with left leg so that the belly of the bow will now be against your left leg, as high as possible toward the thigh. Place the lower limb across the instep of your right foot. Grasping the upper limb with your left hand, exert

Finger tab shown protecting three fingers.

The push-pull method of stringing the bow. pressure, pushing the back of the bow forward. At the same time apply pressure with the left leg against the bow handle. When the bow is brought forward, place the loop over the nock with the right hand. The beginner usually finds this method to be the easiest. (Reverse hands if desired.) 2. Push-Pull Method: While in a standing position put your left foot slightly forward. Start the bowstring on the lower limb. Place the lower limb of your bow inside the arch of your left foot, keeping the end of the bow off the ground. Place your left hand on the handle of bow and the heel of your right on the back of the bow on the upper limb. Grasping the string at the same time, push the upper limb with your right hand and pull the handle with your left. Push the string into the upper nock with your index finger. Check to see if string is secure in both nocks. (Reverse hands if left-handed.) 3. Bow-Stringer: The “’bow-stringer” method of stringing the bow is perhaps the most desirable of all methods. It puts equal pressure on both limbs of bow. The bow-stringer device can be made or purchased.

The step-through method of stringing the bow. To string the bow by this method, first place the larger loop of bowstring over one limb and slide the loop down about 10-12 inches. Place the smaller loop securely in the nock of the other limb. Place the ends of the bow-stringer securely on each end of the bow and loop the string under one foot. Grasp the bow handle with one hand and pull upward. At the same time, slip the unsecured end of the string upward into the nock. Before releasing the bow be sure to check both nocks to see if the string is properly aligned. Stance: One should find a comfortable position at the shooting line and keep it while shooting. Your feet should be spread at 90 degrees toward the target. That is, the left side of your body should face the target. You should look directly at the target. Lay the arrow on the arrow rest of the handle, and nock the arrow (place the arrow on the string) approximately one-eighth inch higher than where the arrow is perpendicular (at a right angle) to the string. This point should be marked permanently so that you always shoot from the same nock point.

Grip the bow handle just enough to hold the bow with the weight resting on the base of the thumb. The left wrist will be slightly to the left of the handle. Avoid the “death grip.” The bow may be tilted or “canted” slightly to the right. Canting the bow is recommended for beginners. After you become familiar with your equipment you should experiment with the vertical position used by many archers.

The bow-stringer metod of stringing the bow. To unstring it, reverse all stringing procedures. When the arrow is nocked, place the first three fingers of the right hand on the bowstring, with the arrow nock between the index and middle fingers. The little finger and thumb can be folded into the palm of your hand. The bowstring should cross the fingers between the ends of the fingers and the first joint, just enough to hold the string until you make the release.

Stance should be maintained without moving feet throughout entire shooting end.

Raise the bow with the left arm until the arm is approximately level, with elbow locked at a slight bend outward. This allows clearance for the bowstring. The left shoulder should be down and back.

Anchor Point: Draw the right hand straight back to the anchor point with the right elbow at shoulder level. The anchor point is the point where the drawing hand or fingers make contact with a point on your face. The same anchor point should be established and used consistently. Choose an anchor point which is comfortable for you, such as the corner of the mouth, or center of the mouth or nose. Draw the same length on the arrow

Anchor point: Note the forefinger located at the corner of mouth.

every time, and leave enough of it extended past the bow handle to avoid an accident or damaged equipment. The shoulder muscles should do most of the work in making the draw. Aiming: There are several techniques of aiming: 1. Bare bow: No mechanical device or sight. (This is a better combination for hunting and target together.) a. Point of aim. b. Pre-gap (similar to Instinctive Method). c. Walking the string. 2. Free style: Aiming with a sight mounted on the bow. I-A. Point of Aim Method: When the bow is at full draw, the archer looks over the tip of the arrow at a marker between himself and the target. In the first illustration in Illustration 11, the point of aim is too far from the archer (too close to target) and the arrow is shot too high, therefore missing the target. By moving the marker closer to the shooter and changing the point of aim (as in the lower illustration) the archer achieves an accurate trajectory. 1-B. Pre-gap (based on the Instinctive Method): Aim the tip of arrow at some spot below the target, then raise your eyes to the bull’s-eye. Draw, anchor, release and follow through. The Instinctive Method, which is a modification of this technique, is used by hunters and many target field archers. Using this method, the archer looks at the target with both eyes open. His secondary vision lines up the arrow and establishes the elevation. This method requires considerable practice and concentration. A consistent draw, anchor, momentary hold, aim and release in one smooth, continuous motion will produce accuracy.

1-C. Walking the String: The nock must be firmly fixed on the bowstring. It should be tight enough so that the fingers can be removed and the arrow remains in place on the string. This method of aiming is efficient up to approximately 40 yards, depending on the pull weight of the bow. The idea is to fix the arrow above the point where the shooting fingers are placed on the string. For example, a shot at 10 yards may require the shooter to place his fingers a distance approximately the width of three finger tabs below the point where the arrow is nocked. At 30 yards only one-half a tab width from the arrow nock may be required. The greater the target distance or the heavier the bow, the less distance is required on the string between the finger tab and the arrow nock. This is a trial and error method which requires experimentation because of the different bow weights and finger tab width. The principle of this method is that the efficiency of the lower limb of the bow is decreased and the case is not as far. This method is for advanced archers and should not be attempted unless the member clearly understands the procedures. 2. Free-style: In this technique a mechanical apparatus called a bow sight is used. The sight is calibrated for distance and can be moved up and down or in and out. The string, lined up along the arrow, is used like a rear sight on a gun, with the bead or cross-hair on the bow sight and the bull’s-eye on the target. If it seems more natural you can close one eye. If the arrow shoots high, move the sight up; if the arrow strikes low, move the sight down. The sight can also be adjusted right or left by moving it toward

(a) (b) Walking the string: (a) fingers are tab width from arrow nock; (b) close-up view of arrow nocked above finger tab. the direction of the misfired arrow until you find the the string, allowing the string to move forward and bull’s-eye. propel the arrow. With the arrow on its way, keep your eyes on the aiming spot until the arrow reaches Holding Your Aim: After the draw, hold a few the target. seconds for aiming. This is important for the beginner. When you develop this habit, you can make Follow-through: Move your arm away from your face quicker shots later, perhaps for hunting purposes. toward the extended position, which will involve about a two-second count. Releasing: The release is important for a smooth flight of the arrow. You simply relax your fingers on

Holding.

Follow-through. Releasing.

TARGET SHOOTING Shooting an End: This means shooting six consecutive shots each time you assume your position or stance. The way to improve your shooting is to be consistent in stance, nocking, drawing, aiming, releasing, and follow-through. Begin shooting at shorter distances and move farther from the target as you become more proficient. This will enable you to develop accuracy and establish good shooting habits, such as aiming, anchor point (nose, chin, or lips), stance, loose bow grip, followthrough, etc. Rounds: A “round” means shooting a predetermined number of arrows from a specified distance for the purpose of scoring. There are various rounds used for scoring. (See “Shooting Rounds”). Be sure everyone has finished shooting before you retrieve your arrows.

The proper procedure for removing arrow from target.

Removing Arrows from Target: The arrows can be removed by placing the hand against the target and pulling the arrow through the index finger and the thumb while grasping the arrow shaft close to the target. Turn the arrow as it is removed. If the arrow is buried in the fletching, pull it through the back of the target in order to avoid pulling against the fletching.

SHOOTING ROUNDS

TARGETS

Junior Round: Columbia-24 arrows at distances of 40, 30, 20 yds. American-30 arrows at distances of 50, 40, 30 yds.

There are several types of targets available. The regulation target face is 48 inches in diameter, and consists of five concentric circles of gold, red, blue, black and white with a small outside border of green. Scoring counts are 9, 7, 5, 3 and 1. This target is recommended for the beginner.

(Use official scoring system, except beginner’s round.) Beginner’s Round: 30 arrows (Sends) at 10, 20, 30 yds. Scholastic-24 arrows at distances of 40 and 30 yds.

The 36-inch target, also frequently used, is designed like the 48-inch target and uses the same scoring system.

Men’s Round: American-30 arrows at distances of 60, 50, 40 yds. Metropolitan-30 arrows at distances of 100, 80, 60, 50, 40 yds. York-72 arrows at distances of 100 yds. 48 arrows at 80 yds. 24 arrows at 60 yds.

If you make a target of your own from the jig designed in this project book, use a 5, 3, 1 scoring system. This target is designed primarily for field archery, and provides you with a good practice target.

Chicago Round (indoor round) 16" target: 30 arrows at 17 yds. 2 ft. 30 arrows at 13 yds. 1 ft. 30 arrows at 10 yds.

TARGET JIG To construct a target jig, use a piece of wood 12 inches long, two inches wide and one-half inch thick. Place a nail one inch from the end of the board. Drill three holes large enough to insert a pencil for marking. Holes should be measured from the nail or pivot point (1) one and one-half inches, (2) three inches, (3) four and one-half inches. When you turn the board and simultaneously mark with a pencil, the circle constructed should provide a target with a three-inch bull’s-eye, a nine-inch inner circle and an 18-inch outer circle.

THINGS TO DO 1. a) Draw a diagram of an arrow and label the following parts: point, shaft, crest, fletching, cock feather and nock. b) Draw a diagram of a strung bow and label the following parts: tip, nock, back, face, handle, arrow rest, bowstring, and nocking point. 2. Define, describe and/or explain the purpose or use of these archery terms: arm guard, cock feather, crest, draw, nock (arrow nock, bow nock and to nock an arrow), overbowed, overdraw, and quiver. 3. List the safety rules of archery and tell why each is important. 4. Make an arm guard and demonstrate its use. 5. Shoot and submit your score for a Beginner’s Round. 6. Define, describe and explain the purpose of the following archery terms: anchoring arrow rest, barebow, blunt, cast, creep, end, field arrow, freestyle, recurved bow, spine, stance, vane, and weight (bow weight, arrow weight). 7. Read a book, story or article about archery, bow hunting or wildlife and report to your club. Tell what happened in the story and what you learned about archery, sportsmanship and wildlife. 8. Explain and demonstrate “point of aim” sighting. 9. Make a belt or ground quiver and demonstrate use. 10. Shoot and submit your score for at least three Junior Rounds observing all safety rules. 11. Define, describe and/or explain the purpose or use of these archery terms: bow sight, broad- head, clout shooting, flight arrow, and trajectory. 12. Make a target jig. 13. Explain three methods of aiming, the advantages and disadvantages of each and demonstrate at least two. 14. Explain how the recurve increases the efficiency and smooth drawing quality of a bow. 15. Prepare a talk and demonstration of one or more of the following for a 4-H meeting: how to select a bow; how to determine the length of arrows needed by an archer, why the weight and spine of an arrow must be matched to the weight and cast of the bow, and the use of aiming points in relation to trajectory; how to string a bow; how to nock, draw and release an arrow safely. 16. Shoot a tournament round at intervals of several days until you have improved your score three consecutive times. 17. Help plan, conduct and score an archery match

between two clubs or teams or a tournament for individuals. 18. Enroll in your state’s Hunter Safety Program. After completing this course, go bow hunting and harvest some game or unprotected mammal, bird or fish with your bow and arrow. Report on this activity to your 4-H group. WORDS TO KNOW Anchor Point: the point on an archer’s face where the index finger or drawing hand is contacted during the act of aiming Archery Go/f: adaptation of the use of the bow and arrow to the game of golf Arm Guard: a piece of leather or other material worn on the arm holding the bow to protect the forearm from the bowstring Arrowhead: the tip or pile of an arrow, designed to protect the point of the arrow or to aid in penetration Arrowp/ate: a piece of material that is glued to the side of the bow at the point where the arrow contacts it; provides protection for the bow from the friction of the arrow Arrow Rest a small protrusion on the bow at the point where the arrow will rest during the draw Back: the outer side of the bow, farthest away from the string Barbs: the two sharp points of an arrowhead that project backward Belly: the side of the bow nearest the string Blunts: blunt-tipped arrows often used for small game Bow Arm: the arm that holds the bow while shooting Bow Sight: a sighting device attached to the bow Bowstring: a waxed or sized cord, usually made of dacron, joining the ends of the bow Bowyer: one who makes bows Brace: to string a bow Broadhead: a hunting point with two or more cutting edges Butt any material designed to stop arrows; site where target face is pinned

Cant to hold the bow tilted or slightly turned while shooting

Flight Arrow: a bow designed for maximum cast with little consideration for accuracy

Cast the distance a bow can shoot

Shooting Glove: a “skeleton” glove with fingertips for the first three fingers of the release hand to protect the fingers of the archer

Clout: a white object such as a cloth that is placed on a stake as a mark for long-distance shooting Cock Feather: the feather that is at right angles to the bow during the draw; usually the odd-colored feather

Handle: the rigid center portion of the bow which is held when shooting Head: point or tip of the arrow

Composite Bow: a bow made of more than one material (laminated) Compound Bow: a bow equipped with from one to four wheels ‘which, at breakover point, reduce the pull to the archer; makes “holding” the bow at full draw much easier and increases speed of arrow

High Strung: a bow so strung that the distance between the handle and string is more than the manufacturer recommends Hit: to strike the target for a score Holding: keeping an arrow at full draw while aiming

Creep: to let the arrow slide forward on the arrow rest prior to the release Crest: the decoration of an arrow, usually consisting of several bands of color; used for identification purposes Crossbow: bow designed similarly to a gun, with a groove or barrel that directs the arrow and a trigger which releases the string Draw: the act of pulling back the bowstring Drawing Arm: the arm that draws the bowstring Drift: natural deflection of an arrow from its normal path due to outside factors such as wind

Instinctive Aiming: aiming with both eyes on the target-only for quick shooting Kick: to jar the archer after shooting; said of a bow Kissing Button (Kisser): an object on the string at an anchor point; touched by the lips when holding Laminated: a bow constructed of more than one material; usually strips of wood and fiberglass glued together Limb: either the upper or lower active portions of the bow Longbow: a bow held in the hand and not fired by a mechanical device

End: six arrows shot one after the other Loose: the actual release of the drawn string End Loop: the part of the string fitting over the bow nock Field Archery: shooting arrows at bull’s-eye or animal targets at varying distances over different types of terrain, usually in woods or on golf-like courses

Nock: either that portion of the arrow that is fitted to the string or the two ends of the bow where the bowstring is fitted Nocking Point that point on the bowstring where the arrow is nocked; often marked by extra serving

Field Arrow: a heavy-duty arrow adaptable for hunting Overbowed: equipped with too strong a bow Fistmele: the distance between the handle and string when the bow is strung; often measured by placing the fist on the bow handle and raising the thumb toward the string

Overdraw: to draw an arrow so far that the point passes the belly of the bow Pile: the head, tip, or point of an arrow

F/etch: to put the feathers on the arrow F/etcher: one who puts feathers on an arrow; also used to designate the jig used in placing feathers on the arrow

Plastic Vanes: plastic material used in place of turkey feathers Point Blank: the distance at which the point of aim and the center of the target are the same

Point of Aim: an auxiliary mark used in aiming at the target

Target Face: the painted front of a target

Pre-gap: method of aiming

Tassel: a yarn tassel worn on the archer’s belt and used to wipe arrows clean

Quiver: a receptacle for carrying or holding arrows Range: distance to be shot; also, a shooting area, indoors or out

Toxophilite: an archer, or a person who is interested in the history of the sport Trajectory: the path of the arrow in flight

Recurve: a bow curved on the ends, curvature being 10-12 inches from end

Vane: the feathers or plastic substitutes that act as rudders in steering the arrow

Reflexed Bow: a bow which, when unstrung, bends in the opposite way to its curve when strung

Walking the String: a system of shooting involving all three fingers below the arrow and various gaps between the arrow and the fingers to achieve a point-blank sight picture regardless of the target distance.

Round: a series of arrows, shot at prefixed distances Roving: shooting at random objects at unknown distances Self: any bow or arrow made entirely of one piece of wood Serving: a wrapping of thread around the bowstring to protect it where the arrow is nocked and where the loops contact the bow nocks

Wand: a slat, two inches wide and six inches long, shot at from a distance of 100 yards Weight of Bow: the number of pounds of pull on the bowstring necessary to bring a 28" arrow to full draw Weight in Hand: actual weight of bow

Shaft the main body of the arrow

Wobble: erratic motion of arrow in flight

Shaftment that portion of the arrow to which the feathers are glued

OTHER SOURCES OF INFORMATION 1. American Archery Council (AAC), Route 1, Box 119, Bechtelsville, PA 19505.

She/f: where arrow rests on bow Shooting Line: the line astride or behind which the archer stands, and which marks a specific distance

2. Archery Manufacturers Organization (AMO). Route 1, Box 119, Bechtelsville, PA 19505.

Spine: the stiffness of an arrow shaft in relation to its thickness, weight, and length

3. Archery Lanes Operators Association (ALOA). 729 Frederick Rd., Baltimore, MD 21228.

String Fingers: the three fingers used to draw back the bowstring

4. American Indoor Archery Association (AIAA). P.O. Box 174, Grayling, Michigan 49738.

Strung Bow: a bow that is ready for shooting; also called a braced bow Tab (Finger): a flat piece of leather or plastic worn on the hand to protect the fingers when drawing the string Tackle: general term to describe any or all of an archer’s gear Target Archery: shooting arrows at fixed distances at targets that are usually in open areas on level ground or indoors

5. National Archery Association of the U.S.A. (NAA). Box 48, Ronks, PA 17572. 6. National Field Archery Association of the U.S.A. (NFAA). Route 2, Box 514, Redlands, California 92373. 7. Professional Archers Association (PAA). 1500 N. Chatsworth St., St. Paul, Minnesota 55117.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS This material was prepared by the Southern Regional 4-H Wildlife Literature Committee through a grant from Atlantic Richfield Company. COMMITTEE: Alvin C. Blake, Tennessee; Dan T. Gardner, Alabama; Dennis Goodman, Kentucky; James E. Miller, Arkansas; Lewis R. Shelton, Ill, Mississippi; Andrew Weber, North Carolina (Vice Chairman); and James L. Byford, Tennessee (Chairman). SPECIAL ASSISTANTS: Rita Schrader, Ben Nottingham, Dale Powell. Some material in this guide was adapted from existing 4-H literature. Materials taken from: “Archery,” The North Carolina Agricultural Extension Service and “Oregon 4-H Archery,” Cooperative Extension Service, Oregon State University.

The Clemson University Cooperative Extension Service offers its programs to people of all ages, regardless of race, color, sex, religion, national origin, disability, political beliefs, sexual orientation, marital or family status and is an equal opportunity employer. Clemson University Cooperating with U.S. Department of Agriculture, South Carolina Counties, Extension Service, Clemson, South Carolina. Issued in Furtherance of Cooperative Extension Work in Agriculture and Home Economics, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914 Public Service Activities