An Amazing Bookcase with Tons of Style! DIY Plans Bookcase

to

Build

a

Circle

How can you not fall in love with this bookcase? I love the circle detail on the sides and trust me, they are very easy to create! The DIY plans to build a Circle Bookcase feature three circles on the sides with a straight board in between, three shelves and a roomy top. The half-circles pieces can be stacked and cut as multiples especially if you own a bandsaw. If not, the pieces can be stacked in two and cut with a jigsaw. This is a project that can definitely be completed in a weekend.

Materials: 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws 1-1/4″ brad nails 1-1/4″ screws Edge banding, optional Wood glue Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits) Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber: 5 1 2 2 1

– – – – –

1×2 at 8′ 1×3 at 4′ 1×3 at 8′ 1×6 at 8′ 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List: 12 – 1×6 at 14″ – Half Circles 2 – 1×3 at 39-1/2″ – Inner Side Frames 4 4 8 8 3 1

– – – – – –

1×3 at 13-1/2″ – Outer Side Frames 1×3 at 44-1/2″ – Outer Side Frames 1×2 at 16″ – Shelf Frames 1×2 at 34-1/2″ – Shelf Frames 3/4″ plywood at 18-1/2″ x 34-1/2″ – Shelves 3/4″ plywood at 19-1/2″ x 37″ – Top

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly. Cut the pieces to length for the half circles. Print the template and tape the sheets together matching the registration marks. Cut the template with scissors and trace around the template on the 1×6 pieces. The pieces can be stacked and screwed (or hot glued) together so they can be cut apart in multiples. Use a jigsaw with a scrolling blade or a bandsaw with a 1/8″ blade. Thoroughly sand the pieces. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes as shown, the best way they will fit.

Step Two Cut the 1×3 pieces for the inner side frame and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the half-circle pieces to the 1×3 pieces using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Three Cut the pieces for the outer side frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Secure the pieces together to create the side panels using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. It may be easier to fill all of the pocket holes before assembly.

Step Four Cut the pieces for the shelf frames. The frames can be assembled by drilling pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces and securing with glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws, or by using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. Secure the shelf frames to the side panels using glue and countersunk 1-1/4″ screws positioning the frames so they are 1/2″ back from the side edges of the side panels.

Step Five Cut the pieces for the shelves. The front and back of the shelves will be flush with the side edges of the side panels and will overhang the frames by 1/2″.

Step Six Cut the piece for the top. The top will overhang by 1/2″ on all sides. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails.

Finish as desired. This bookcase would make an excellent addition to any room. It

can also be used in a bathroom to store toiletries and clean towels! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Circle Bookcase? Leave a comment below!

Free Plans to Build a Wisteria Inspired Recycled Pine Wood Bookcase This would be the perfect bookcase for a room where the furniture is rearranged frequently! The casters make it incredibly easy to move from place to place and the wide shelves provide ample storage for a variety of items.

Materials: 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws 2-1/2″ screws 4″ casters (The bookcase will be heavy so make sure the casters can support the weight!) Finishing Supplies

Lumber: 4 – 2×2 at 8′ 4 – 2×4 at 8′ 15 – 2×6 at 8′ Cut List: 4 – 2×4 at 75-3/4″ – Side Frames 10-2×2 at 9-1/2″ – Side Frames 15 – 2×6 at 73″ – Shelf Slats 4 – 2×2 at 70″ – Back Stretchers

Click on the drawings to enlarge them! 1. Cut the pieces for the side frames. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 2×2 pieces. Attach to the 2×4 legs with 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws placing the pocket holes so they are facing up and will be hidden by the shelf slats.

2. Cut the pieces for the slats. Cut a notch in eight of the slats to accomodate the legs. Attach the slats to the frames as shown using glue and countersunk 2-1/2″ screws. A few screws may be placed through the sides of the legs into the slats with the notch cut into them.

3. Cut the pieces for the stretchers. Drill pocket holes in each end. Attach to the back of the bookcase as shown using glue and 2-1/2″ pocket hole screws.

4. Attach the casters to the bottom of the side frames. If needed, a

block can be placed under the lowest shelf at the side frames to attach the casters.

Finish as desired.

Have a completed project using my plans? Let everyone else see your hard work on DbSC! Send me an email at cher [at] designsbystudioc [dot] com or designsbystudioc [at] gmail [dot] com! Until next time, Happy Creating!

A Super-Easy Bookshelf You Can Build in an Afternoon Build a Bookshelf Inspired by West

Elm I saw this and I was in love… I decided I would try my hand at creating plans to build a bookshelf inspired by West Elm! This is one of the first furniture plans I ever drew for Dbsc. I used one (yes, ONE) sheet of plywood, edge-banding and a few screws. Such a cheap build coming in at about $50… Here is a photo of what my shelf looks like finished:

Tools & Materials Needed: Table, Miter, Circular, or Jig Saw Kreg Jig & 1-1/4″ Pocket Hole Screws Drill Tape Measure Square Wood Glue Wood Filler Finishing Supplies

Cut List: All pieces are cut from ¾” plywood and the grain should run parallel to the longest side except as noted– 3 – 10” x 38” – Shelves 1 – 6-1/2” x 9-1/4” – Upper Divider 1 – 9-1/4” x 12-1/4” – Lower Divider * Grain will run parallel with 9-1/4” side 1 – 6-1/2” x 29-3/4” – Upper Back 1 – 12-1/4” x 29-3/4” – Lower Back

Cut all pieces as indicated. It would be a good idea to sand each piece after cutting and drilling the pocket holes because sanding after assembly may be difficult! Also, if you choose to use edge banding on the plywood edges, this would be a good time to apply that to all edges that will be exposed. I like to sand the edges really well and leave them exposed. Using the Kreg jig set for ¾” material and the Lower Divider, drill pocket holes along the 9-1/4” edges. Attach with 1-1/4” screws to one of the Shelves (this will be the lower shelf), 8-1/4” in from the edge. Make sure the front of the divider is even with the front of the lower shelf. This will allow for attaching the back.

Drill pocket holes in the Lower Back piece on each of the 29-3/4” edges. Attach to the lower shelf and to the divider with the pocket holes facing out. See drawing.

Lay the middle shelf on this assembly and attach with 1-1/4” screws through the pocket holes on the back and divider pieces.

Drill pocket holes in the 9-1/4” edges of the Upper Divider and attach the divider 8-1/4” in from the edge of the middle shelf. Make sure the upper divider is placed opposite of the lower divider. See drawings.

Drill pocket holes in the Upper Back along the 29-3/4” edges. Fasten to upper divider and middle shelf with 1-1/4” screws.

Lay the last 10” x 38” piece on top of the assembly and attach with 1-1/4” screws through the remaining pocket holes in the upper back. Finish as desired.

I sanded and finished the pieces to my bookshelf before assembly. I use 80 grit sandpaper first, then 120, and finished with 220. This makes an ultra-smooth finish. I stained the shelf with Minwax Wood Stain in Special Walnut, then used Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain in Matte.

The cool thing about the plans to build a bookshelf inspired by West Elm, is that two can be built, then they can be fitted together in an “L” shape! This is the perfect build for beginners. It comes together quickly which gives a feeling of satisfaction! Any questions? Let me know at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com!

A Simple Bookcase to Build with an Open Design

DIY Plans Bookcase

to

Build

a

Parson

This simple bookcase packs a lot of style! The DIY plans to build a Parson Bookcase feature plywood sides and shelves with solid wood frames on the front and back. (The frames are built and attached separately!) This would be a great piece to use as a room divider and would be fabulous in a pair. As always, this is a very easy plan that can be completed in a weekend!

Materials: 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws 1-1/4″ brad nails Wood glue Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits) Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber: 6 – 1×2 at 8′ 1 – 4′ x 4′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood 1 – 4′ x 8′ sheet of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List: 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 63-1/2″ – Sides 5 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/2″ x 28-1/2″ – Shelves 4 – 1×2 at 63-1/2″ – Face Frames 10 – 1×2 at 27″ – Face Frames

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One Cut jig the and

the pieces for the sides and shelves. With the pocket hole set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each end of shelf pieces. Secure the shelves to the sides using glue 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Two Cut the pieces for the face frames and drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frames using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the face frames to the front and back of the bookcase using glue and 1-1/4″ brad nails. The top of the shorter pieces on the face frames will line up with the top of the shelves, and the frames will cover the raw plywood edges.

Finish the bookcase as desired. The bookcase would make an excellent addition to any room. Casters can also be added to the bottom to add portability, especially when using as a room divider. This is also a great plan for those new to woodworking! Have any questions about the DIY plans to build a Parson Bookcase? Leave a comment

below!

Build a Massima Bookcase A Super-Easy Modern Bookcase – DIY Plans to Build a Massima Bookcase I built a bookcase similar to this one for myself many years ago. It was actually one of my first woodworking projects and I still have it! I used 1×6 lumber and painted it a bright turquoise. The DIY plans for a Massima bookcase use 1×12 lumber but really any width can be used and the same directions will apply. It is a very easy build and can be completed in a couple of hours. In fact, it will probably take longer to prime and paint (or stain and seal) than it will to build!

The bookcase can be assembled with pocket holes and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws or 2-1/2″ countersunk screws. The finishing will go much easier if the pieces are sanded prior to assembly!

Materials: 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws or 2-1/2″ screws Wood glue Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits) Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer)

Lumber: 2 – 1×12 at 6′ 3 – 1×12 at 8′

Cut List: 2 – 1×12 at 35″ – Base Frame 2 – 1×12 at 70-1/2″ – Base Frame 4 – 1×12 at 22″ – Cubbies 2 – 1×12 at 13-1/2″ – Cubbies 2 – 1×12 at 11-1/2″ – Dividers 3 – 1×12 at 13-1/2″ – Dividers

Click on the drawings for a larger view!

Step One Cut the pieces for the base frame. If using the pocket hole method, set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the longer pieces. Assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. If using the countersunk screw method, drill countersunk holes in the ends of the shorter pieces. Assemble the frames using glue and 2-1/2″ screws.

Step Two Cut the pieces for the cubbies. If using the pocket hole method, drill pocket holes in each end of the shorter pieces as well as one end of the longer pieces (to attach the cubbies to the frame). Assemble the cubbies as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. If using the countersunk screw method, drill countersunk holes in one end of each of the longer pieces. Assemble the cubbies using glue and 2-1/2″ screws.

Step Three Attach the cubbies to the base frame. If using the pocket hole method, position the cubbies as shown securing in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. If using the countersunk screw method, drill countersunk holes on the outside of the frame where the cubbies will be positioned. Attach the cubbies to the frame using glue and 2-1/2″ screws.

Step Four Cut the pieces for the dividers. If using the pocket hole method, drill pocket holes in each end of the pieces. Attach the dividers to the cubbies and the frame as shown using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. If using the countersunk screw method, drill countersunk holes in the cubbies and frame according to the dimensions in the drawing. Secure the dividers using glue and 2-1/2″ screws.

Finish as desired. As mentioned, any 1x material can be used to fit any space. Creating the bookcase using 1×2 lumber then mounting it to the wall would make an awesome frame for photos or art! Have any questions or comments about the DIY plans to build a Massima bookcase? Leave a comment below or contact me at cher {at} designsbystudioc {dot} com.

A Beautiful Bookcase for Any Space DIY Furniture Plans to Build an Open Bookcase with Drawers This bookcase is another super-easy build… The DIY furniture plans to build an Open Bookcase with Drawers feature a solid

wood face frame over a plywood carcass with two drawers in the middle. The drawers slide on their corresponding shelves (no drawer slides to install). This inexpensive beauty can be finished any way you wish, and can be competed in a weekend.

Materials: 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws 1-1/2″ brad nails 1-3/4″ brad nails Edge banding 4 – Cabinet Pulls Wood glue Sandpaper (100, 150, 220 grits) Finishing supplies (primer & paint, or stain, sealer) Paste Wax

Tools Needed: Table saw or circular saw Miter saw Drill Pocket hole jig

Iron and cutter for edge banding Pneumatic brad nailer with compressor Drill bit to drill holes for cabinet pulls

Lumber: 2 – 1×2 at 8′ 2 – 1×3 at 8′ 2 – 1×6 at 8′ 1 – 2′ x 4′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood 2 – 4′ x 8′ sheets of 3/4″ plywood

Cut List: 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/4″ x 72″ – Sides 6 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/4″ x 28-1/2″ – Shelves 4 – 1×3 at 28-1/2″ – Upper & Lower Stretchers 1 – 3/4″ plywood at 14-1/4″ x 30″ – Top 2 – 3/4″ plywood at 5-5/8″ x 28-1/2″ – Drawer Opening Back 2 – 1×2 at 72-3/4″ – Face Frame 2 – 1×3 at 27″ – Face Frame 4 – 1×6 at 12″ – Drawer Box Sides 4 – 1×6 at 26-7/8″ – Drawer Box Front & Back 2 – 1/4″ plywood at 12-1/2″ x 25-7/8″ – Drawer Box Bottom

Click on the drawings for a larger view! Edge banding will be applied to the exposed edges of the plywood prior to assembly.

Step One Cut the pieces for the sides and shelves. With the pocket hole jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in each side edge of the shelf pieces. Secure the shelves to the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Two Cut the pieces for the upper and lower stretchers, and drill pocket holes in each end. Secure the lower stretchers to the bottom under the lowest shelf using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the upper stretchers to the top of the sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Three Cut the piece for the top. The top will be flush with the sides and the upper stretchers. Secure the top in place using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

Step Four Cut the pieces for the drawer opening back and drill pocket holes along each long edge. There don’t have to be as many pocket holes drilled as shown in the drawing but they do have to be staggered so they don’t interfere with each other when secured. Secure in place using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Five Cut the pieces for the drawer spacers and secure in place using glue and 1-1/2″ brad nails.

Step Six Cut the pieces for the face frame. Drill pocket holes in each end of the 1×3 pieces, and assemble the frame using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws. Secure the face frame to the front of the cabinet using glue and 1-3/4″ brad nails.

Step Seven Cut the pieces for the drawer box sides, front, and back. Cut the groove in the bottom edge of each piece at 1/4″ wide by 1/4″ deep using a table saw or a router and a straight bit. Set the pocket hole jig for 3/4″ material and drill pocket holes in each end of the drawer box side pieces on the opposite side as the groove. Make sure that the pocket holes will not interfere with the groove. Secure the sides to the back using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Step Eight Cut the piece for the drawer bottom. Slide the bottom into the grooves in the sides and back. The piece should fit snugly but not too tight.

Step Nine Insert the front edge of the drawer box bottom into the groove on the drawer box front. Secure the drawer box front to the drawer box sides using glue and 1-1/4″ pocket hole screws.

Finish the bookcase and drawers as desired. Install the cabinet pulls on the drawers then apply a coat of paste wax to

the bottom edges of the drawers so they slide easier in the openings!

The bookcase is the perfect piece for any room. Casters can also be added to the bottom for portability! Have any questions about the DIY furniture plans to build an Open Bookcase with Drawers? Leave a comment below!