Also by J.E. WILLIAMS The Andean Codex: Adventures and Initiations Among the Peruvian Shamans Winter Rain (poetry) Prolonging Health: Mastering the 10 Factors Light of the Andes of Longevity Viral Immunity: A 10-Step Plan to Enhance Your Immunity Against Viral Disease Using Natural Medicines Beating the Flu: The Natural Prescription for Surviving Pandemic Influenza and Bird Flu

LIGHT of the ANDES J.E. WILLIAMS

LIGHT of the ANDES In Search of Shamanic Wisdom in Peru Copyright © Light of the Andes 2012 by J.E. Williams All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America. No part of this book may be used or reproduced in any manner without written permission except for brief quotations for review purposes only

Title image: North face of Ausangate Cover image and interior photographs by J.E. Williams Cover and interior design: ital art by Mariah Fox Map by Grupo Geo Graphos S.R.L., Miraflores, Peru Light of the Andes is published by Irie Books and sponsored by AyniGLOBAL, a non-profit organization dedicated to Light of the Andes indigenous wisdom, Light of the Andes including producing literature, film, and workshops on the relationship of humans and nature, earth-based wisdom, and optimal personal health of mind and body Inquiries, please contact Dr. Williams Phone: (941) 929-1901 Fax: (941) Light of the Andes 929-1903 Email: [email protected] ISBN 10: 1-61720-374-2 ISBN 13: 9781617203749 First Edition 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Light of the Andes 1

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For the coming generations, who will create a new world.

CONTENTS Map of Greater Cusco Area Author’s Note

Preface Acknowledgements Chapter One Sebastian’s Dilemma Chapter Two The Teaching Light of the Andes of Suryamana Chapter Three The Way to Ausangate Chapter Four Earth Mountain Sky Chapter Five White Clouds Light of the Andes Green Lake Chapter Six Blue Transparent Chapter Seven The Last Mountain Epilogue Sebastian’s Note Topics for Discussion Notes & References Quechua Glossary About the Author About AyniGLOBAL

Greater Cuzco area from Machu Picchu to Ausangate Peak, including Q’ero Territory.

To develop a sense of universal responsibility, of the universal dimension of our every Light of the Andes act and of the equal right of all others to happiness and not to suffer, is to develop an attitude of mind whereby, when we see an opportunity to benefit others, we will take it in preference to merely looking after our own narrow interest. The Dalai Lama

Sebastian playing Q’ero flute.

AUTHOR’S NOTE ON QUECHUA TERMS It is extremely difficult to translate the complex cosmology and ancient spiritual teachings of the Q’ero into English. For one, there are many variations of phonetic Quechua spellings. For example: Cuzco, Cusco, Q’osqo. or Inca, Inka. In this book, I choose accepted spelling for places, like Cusco, and Light of the Andes daily items even if different from the dictionary. Another reason is that Quechua is a spoken language, written Quechua being a recent development. In spoken Quechua, single words tend to be linked together, forming sequences that build concepts leading to encompassing philosophical statements of worldview leaving individual words or explanatory sentences inadequate. These multiword constructs are not listed in Quechua dictionaries, yet native speakers understand them with ease. To their ear, the words flow like water over stones, polishing until smooth. In keeping with spoken Quechua, in an attempt to retain their poetic, dreamlike quality, I link words as consistent with common usage. For consistency in this book, I’ve used Quechua spellings from the Diccionario QuechuaEspanol-Quechua by The Academia Mayor de la Lengua Quechua in Cusco.1 This dictionary is the same one I used for Quechua terms in The Andean Codex. I also include a glossary of Quechua words. However, there are considerable regional variations among Andean Quechua speakers, not all the words and terms used by the Q’ero in this book are found in that dictionary. In fact, Light of the Andes many Quechua words in this book are part of an ancient language spoken by the Inkas. Common Quechua, Runasimi, was the Light of the Andes language originally spoken in preInkan times by the people of the Andean highland valleys in the Cusco area. The Inkan royalty, who came from outside of the Cusco valley, had their own language that scholars believe was related to Chimu, a now Light of the Andes extinct language spoken by a pre-Inkan Peruvian coastal civilization centered around Chan Chan, near the site of the current day city of Trujillo on the Pacific in the north of Peru. After establishing Cusco (“Navel of the World”) as the capital city of the Inkan empire, Tahuantinsuyu (“Empire of the Four Directions”), the Inkas adopted Quechua as the official language of the empire, but continued to use their private language among themselves and the priestly class. Because the Inkas had no formal written language that we know of, this sacred language is hardly known, though still in use among Light of the Andes elder Q’ero shamans. Many of the words and terms used in this book, as held by the Q’ero, are in the original sacred language of the Inkan royalty, and therefore are not found in any Quechua dictionary. In these cases, I’ve attempted to come as close to the form of spelling used Light of the Andes by the Academia Mayor, and according to Sebastian’s wishes, I refer to these ancient terms in this

book as “Sacred Runasimi.”

Santiago and Sebastian in Cusco.

PREFACE I never was good at being the invisible witness, the objective ethnographer observing impersonally the lives of human subjects. It did not work for me in 1967 when I lived with the Yupik people of St. Lawrence Island in the Bering Light of the Andes Sea, and it does not apply to my work with the Q’ero. In keeping with the Light of the Andes legacy of my fieldwork, The Light of the Andes is a work of hybrid ethnography and spiritual anthropology about the Light of the Andes teachings of Ayni, the Q’ero way of knowledge and being. It is not a record of events and things. Rather, it forms a personal narrative, an allegory of seeking and discovery that documents the events that lead to the journey and high-altitude Light of the Andes initiation on Ausangate with the traditional Q’ero shaman and wisdom keeper, Sebastian Pauccar Flores, in 2008. Ayni is the touchstone of the Q’ero worldview who hold it as the code of life, an innate imprint discoverable in nature and ever present in the universe where it forms the content of every thing— the matrix of all being. Ayni is best thought of as reciprocity, but it also implies reverence and universal responsibility. On Earth, it is embedded in nature’s design. In the human sphere, it acts as a golden compass that always points true. Neither a religion nor a philosophy, Ayni is the guiding principle for a way of life that embodies ethical behavior and spiritual practice that promotes reverence for the earth and the heavens, family and culture; that fosters social harmony and engenders a common sensibility for all life—the sustainability principle. Since 2000, I have been a friend to the Q’ero. Living and working with them has brought me to a deeper understanding of nature and myself. Sebastian and I have walked hundreds of miles together in the Andean mountains, long marches at high altitude with few breaks, little water and often no food, and when necessary sleeping in the open without tents or trekking gear. I learned their history, shared their beliefs, and studied Quechua. I listened to their dreams and they listened to mine. I followed their traditional spiritual practices; conducted more than a hundred ceremonies of reciprocity (called despachos) with Q’ero shamans (pakuqs or paqos), and have adapted these practices into my daily life. During this time with the Q’ero, babies have been born, children have come of age, young men have fathered children, and good friends have died. I wrote Light of the Andes The Andean Codex

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