A POCKET GUIDE T O

NORTHERN IRELAND

A POCKET PUlOE TO I O R T I E R I IRELAID

CONTENTS

Thuc Am Two I r e l a d

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............. ............. E m Bordcr Pmblunr . . . . . . . . . . 'Thc P m p b m e r Ct,stom d Maonen . . . A h t Argumcno . . . . . . . . . . . Dd-cc * L.npagc. . . . . . . . . . The GI018 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Urtn r War. . . . . . . . . . . . . P~rDnyBlurr . . . . . . . . . . . . . Condurion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . me

Couotry

Govern-t

Money.

Wughu. md Mcasws













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&&, St. PpauiCL.~Day, thc w i n g of the greenthese Mong to Southern Idand, m called Eirc (&+). Eirc b neutral in the war. Nonhun Ireland uearum irp govcrnmcnul union with Engknd sbwc .dl things. The* are hiJtoric reams for thcx attitudes. Ireland hw xnr many gifrcd and nddusblc citizen* w the United Stater. Irishmen from Nonh md South, Pro& csmt and Clthplic, began w migrate to Ameriu in early colonial days. Nine generals in the American Rsvolu&m were of Irish birth. F n u signers of the Dedaration of Indcpdcnce were born in I d m d and four wue ~f Irish d-t. FoPIuidentr d the Unind States hnve carried the blmd of I h d in thck veins. Thcrc are many of you roldicn who are of Irish d-t. Same of you, Pmtest~nr.or Clthdia, may knmv at &st band or -nd band about the digiour and p o l i d di&rrnccr bctwcen Northern md Southan Idnod. Perhap they wun fmlish to you. WCAmericans don't w n 9 which ride our gran&th~n fought on in thc Civil War, bwute it docsn't r m w now. But these things still matter in Ireland and it is only xnribk to be fmmwocd. Them are two -Hat ~ C of Imndm for the hi u n abmd. T h q are gmd rub anywhere but they are ptticuhrly important in Ireland: ( x ) Dodt ague religion. ( 2 ) Don't acpe poliIiCs.

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NORTHERN Ireland--udy &d U k r 4 a d antry, only slightly larger than the State of Cornticut, lt is made up of the sir -tics in thc m k m mmer d thc i.lPod: Antrim. h . h . Dasn. Landondan. ~ m m m g h ,and ~ y m i e .&s' rS3q&o p i p = quite so m y as in La Angeletlivc there. Firs off you m y ~t k e thc Irish b m . b is damp, chilly, rainy. If you are from thc Southwet or from Cnlifor& you m y fmd y d homesick for r u l u h . Ths sun is only an acariooal visitor in Idand; them m about 200 rainy days s year. Ths rains, however, u p d y PI gcock Lm.zks, nm as thunderrhowen. Itmaybearwrto,ou~tlrclsndbfuthermnhthan the Umted Smw Fn this I thc d r y u very short in winter and long in summer. In lam June md July ihue is little dsrknaa and you will be abk to ,ad a mppu at 9 d d 4 at night. In late h b u daylight lurr lar than 7 hours, and dark- d m in by midahnmn. Despite Irebod's northerlincu--it lies about a d y opp~itelnbmdor-cliuonn of h u t md cold ue arc. ln the a m e r a tunpaturn of 80 dcgrres is the perk of h a t wave, and in winter &mhg wuther is thc exception nthcr than the rule. It is rhe l l ~ p p - n t damwhich mske the rml summur and mild wio.tcn acm d d c r than they are.

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Many pmplc m Ireland wenr &I&, w m l a dothmg the ycu round. You wdl be wrx to keep y d warm and

d r y , ~ P o d b m n d u w a r e ~ Dnmdulls the bonn of vmtors, but it rmLa and bcswihl. Ulster is n s u m drded by dliig hi&. There is the h i m plateau in the norththe Sprrin tdouoninr Y thc Mnhwea, the M o w M o u o in ~ the **~heasi.If 90" mmc fmm N d Cnml'i, or Colorado, or Idaho, these m y not rcrm ~ I I like C ~ mowtins to v o u 4 v rise r . m feet st thdr -

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On furlough p m p want to YUI~ the m-tam, OT to h g h Neagh tbe largest lake m the Bntirh Idf h g h , p m d ''Wu the Idrh word for &.) Anaha m a n g e Pod ndfs moUr u the Gmr'r C p m ~ ~ 4 0 mlolumn. , m of W t msk wluch n x fmm hyrttbeMnbernupoftheulPnd ~ s ~ d c b m o d

-." -..-.-,. ,-"A ."A ..LI.Y

M a t of ULteis r , j o a w p p l e live nmheasf of Lough Yengh, in the lowhdr. ?here are s gmd many large ~ltco swned bg the wealthy or& o n c , d t h y , omd

will find ancient and t w m d castles mmered among the hilb and glens, hut mort of the Irish f a r m s manage to d e their livinp on plots of land which Americans, "red to ulcmn and far horizons, would think hardly larger

than ample vcgetablc @dens. n i r r u l e of fuming will sun almost absurdly omall to vou who come fmm the Middle West or the Far West h m e are 90,famu in U l w with tiny &Ids and small, whitcwarhcd, thauhd-rwf cottager. A 5aue place honc of respectable rils to an ULtermm, a tcwsrc dace is d l y rubrintid, and anyone who ow- more than 40 acres considered to be engaged in I.rge.sde farming. Finc cutk gram on the p m r c land, and hay, oats, patpmu,mnip%and wheat am grown. Belfast is the most important induarisl m r u in I d a d , d one of the key points of the British war &on It hvn p p & t i o n o f # 8 , ~ 0 t h i r d of the people in all Ulster live ther-nd io slightly krgu than h r City, Mic rowi. &I& was badly bombed by the Gumm in ,940. Londonderry (&led h r y by the Irish), the wmnd city of Ulster, is l a f e d on the North h~f, and had L p&. tion of 43,000 bebre the war. Bdfut today rercmblu many Amuican cities where rhe w p m of war arc king forged sa fpat sa industlial w h A will m o . The pmducdon of linen in pacetimer is a p t industry; Irish linensae h w n all over the worId, Today '

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muchof k h i indunr). h been convcrred to k r m ~ uktwcof muonpmdtdnbfor Bnuoh Army u m h m .

P.V."**I."T

TO U N D E R ~ A N D why there are two govumxm m I r h d - U l s m m the nordm nnd &re m the mrhn u necersq ta h o w a I& &bout Inrh hutwy. I d humrg M d u d y c o m p l d . O r ~ g d ym vded d ppulaud by the Celb ( p m n o d "Kelts"), fmm the French mas. whose Gdz Ianand a-nt Lgendr sull runrvc, I d a n d MI engaged fma t h o u 4 p n m a struggle agwut Engluh dnnuunon Afrcl. h g l d broke anth the Chwch of Rome m the fim hdf of rhe fimenth century, m y of the Insh refused a k g o thew fiholtwm, a d mbssqumt wsn wok on the hmta of ICLeous struggles. Present-dnp N o r t h M a n d MI onre put of rhe anaent h g d o m of Ulm, d zt rrmnmncd the last stronghold d Celtls rule unul the wentcmth century, wbsn imer~lrmgwnrwrrhtheEnglIshmoStdtheCelu~m bbmw wuc dnven out 01 went mto hdmg UL the wild

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a i r &trd Lods even Dyer to hrgc .sum bur of h c h Prcrbyrcnsnr .od P r o w a r Engksh set. tlur. At the celcbrad Bade of dx Boync, July 12, ,690, ihe l u r fitholx Kin. of Eneland. I11. wrs dcfepod by the Pm-t dram 2 0-ge,hod Nonhero



ar I O W ~or Indinnswhich have thdr own elg&. turrr--scnd Congremcn w Wanhiogon.

,US

1 1 1 1 .DllDIR

*ROBLEIS

AMERICAN =copare not pxrnittcd w cras the border into Eire, md, rr you ~robsblyknow, E m o n Dc Valen, Prime Miisnr of Eire, publicly protested against thc fim inndingsof our men in Ulster. This may strike you ar saangc--a* it is r m n g c w h c n the grave isrues at stake ,n this war nrc considered. Behind this border clwing, behind the De Valcra prowt, is the whole di&ult and complicated Irish quetion. You need to know about this prablun and what is Mid ao bnh ddu, but the bcsr plan for an Amcriun roldicr is w m y on the side line. De Vdcrir goal is the unificationof all I d a n d intooac nation. His government protend again* the landing of aaops because, as a matter of public policy, it dou not the separation of Northern Idand. Eire h r ddared imlf ncvual in the war. Howcvcr, the grar majority of the citizens of Eire privately h o for ~ an AUicd victory, and thc sinking of the Gumnn h n l e h i p Birrnarc4 is raid w have been cheered more loudly in Dublin t b n in Lon&,,.

Ncuerrhcie~,E i r h neutrality is 1 r a l dangu to the Allied csurc. Thcrc, jvrt arms the Irish Channel fmm unbattlcd Englsod, and not tm fir from yow own bill-

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in UI~tcr,the Axii nations maintain krge legation. and Axisngcnta rurd out wuther repom, find out by wpionsgcwhat i going on in Ul%w. The Ulw bordcr is 600 mile long and hard to p m l . Axir spics sift ba* and for& a c m the bmdcr co-0th. Be on "our -dl The N- arc vvme to find out dl Jpubiic. EU-Y .bout th; A. F. w a h what ears am listening. n&s.

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Z W I PIOPLtC-IWEII

CUSTOMS 1 1.

MAM1.1$

THE people of Ulster, whcthcr of Gaelic, M, or Englxrh ancestry, mgard t h c d v c s na Irishmen. They proud of thcir linage m d vrmmdously fond and proud of cithcr nstivc h d . Thcy will talk w you frecly

nrc

;~hn,,r ir. . . .. ..

Bcforc you have ten thcrc many days you will hear dl about Irclmd's long hinory. the b u r y of Ircimd'r rccncry, rhc cxrraordlnnrv , ~-o i n s w nof lnrh fairvfolk. thc o m dlaous roll call of Ireland's erst men Ynu mlc u to listen. You may have reen more exciting accncq, you are undoubtedly used w more bountiful living-but you rm on thcir home grounds. Thcy may a p t you w brag a b u t New York's big buildings. Don't do it. Thcrc are Irishmen who emigrated to the i'tumed States a~ boys and who bsvc mumcd, nur tbccnd of thcxr Irun, to the lrttle volkgcr thcy Ich long ago Some of than u c unppdnr h u e they tdk about 3s-

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m a p , u p ~ highways, a m d u n plumbing; t h q bwat about the wonders t h q haw sem and shared. The Irish,

bdng proud people, =sat wmprianr in which Ircknd m s to come ofi s a n d best. Geniog along with people in Ireland is pq much the rvnc job as gcning along with p p l c in Amuica. Consid. mtion, munay, friendlinear will take you just as far in Ireland u they will a home. Tne IriSn will l i b your fnnknerr if it is l h d l y . Thq will cxpcct you to be gmcmus, high spirited, robm-but thrg will not appreciate any d o n o f yours to impose your codeof -dun or valuu u p h. A "Litor coming to America wins few K i d s if he makcr 1 point of telling Amuiaor how much beuu his mvnuy is thm theirs. It d-'l maLc any d & e n s s that he honndy beliorcs he is right. Irish liLe their own way oflifc and you will be wis, if, during your my, yon lit ynrrwlf into it as well and u d o n a b l e as p i b l c . The people ofUlsm are, in general, xriowminded and hnrd.wo.rli~.They are indcpchdcnt in their beliefa and

stubbornin &i o&im. Thc h a w idvation of Scach blmd may hPve mething to & with the ha that they are exceedingly & i . But they uc thrifty nLo bww Iland is not z rich m u n q and 1 living is &ult to mme

by. The Userman l i b to drive s hard bargain in h i nca aff.irs and be thinks spendthrift b o dope. Ye,at the m e timq Ulster is r most horpitabk place. If you paus nt n f u n d s house, you arc liLclg to be invited lo for a cup of tea. Tea is now n ~ n e d b, ut m t l y an American roldicr speaking on s rhort-wave b,&t %id he had drunk more tea during h i firs r wcsks in Ireland than he had in hL whde life before. You should be warned on mc paint: if you ue iovited to the fnrmdr dinncr table, don't accept uxl m y help in@. Fmd is nor plmtifd, nnd kcnw the lrirh nr. hmpiuble, thc b d i n g housewifemry have smkcd m09t of the w a s supply of mar. The mak roc*l renter in Ulster is the tavern oc public h o w While then nr. tcmpaloce d v o u t e s md a few pmhibitionista in Idmd, you won't uc much of them. Irish w h i i is famous, but thc price is now ro high that you will h d m m o r people drink mu,de, and paw, which thq d l "krbcu:' The Amuicanqpe k (which is, d wMUy &m qpl mmcr only io b o t h nnd is !mownrr 'lager!' Up in the hills you may be offered lo illicit wnwtion h w n as "pathecd' ?his is n mmnrhinc w h i i made nnd *to mash. Watch it. b'r dynamite The bser nnd dc a v e d in theC'pubo"is u & l y huvia and monger

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Eumpennr g e n d y , a n acNN)mcd to d&

wved

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The Inah don't go rn forthe Dutch mat 1 y w If five men enter s pub, cncb wiU mnd P round, md cuquc10 dcmmdr that dl m y und the last d the five munL has k o bought. If you are mwted to jmn sush a p u p , and dow,rrmcm~~tyawwdl~veo&nreby~~asl

mmatmdbetrentcd. You'll pmbebly rmm the lodr. fountam,the hot dog Mdds, and hrmburz" ,o*u of Amem. I d m d has ding d y I& them. Thue am no A, few sweets, and v c y few d drinks. If you want n rmdwich, youll have to& your own; rhe Irish serve and eat thci mar nnd brad sepmucly. ha s msttcr of fur, when on furlough you may have di%ulty in grning a ha meal just whcn you wsru a. Mest "pubs" M t vrvc fmd. In the country it is quite dl tight m a p c h 8 f m c h w and& to buy milk.eggs, brerd,lodtea. Milk,eggs, b d , lod tea u s d y m e the Ulstemn bah at brrrlfnrt and supper.(Supper isoftenCPUcd"high tea.") Dinovis the only mcnl that indudcr mt,&, and aher vcgu~blcs,and, aicp at the big hot& in the &ti*, it u s d y in the middle of the day. The war has made it n m s a r v for I&d to rely m h a own pmduce for fd,and &re is mn much~varkq. Pea- and cabbge ax the inevitablev e g s t s b l u T

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isli&wvoninginthefmd,mdthchef~rbehmn m y bs n bit on the tough ride, but it rntLfvr n hungry msn. Them are various Irish spcutticr that you will fiod delghtful--the oat ukes md patam b a d ue d e n t and thc rmnn (baking p w d u biscuits) PR the bat in thc wnrlA .

The prc-war tourist frequently -!d, in criticismof W,that there is nothing to do t h e . It is true that the Irish do nor go in for orpized s p a t much as the hing more w i h g thm a f m b d ( - r ) gune between ,/ nuo mush Irish orofcumd team: tcmour riu md thc mLEc h u k t l v, on h n d to keco Both doe ncing and horw racing nrc p p u l u ; d W rpcu ur popular, and you mtght bc able to @ pcrmirdon fmm a brmcr to lhoa ovu his h d or to uout.fuh hi brook, bur mskc very sure you gct pcrmisrion-pwching isn't pop"-

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kr in Nonh Ireland. Golf is not n rich man's game in Nnthern Irelnnd md thue arc I i h everywhere. Your mmmmding o&r undoubtedly cm iurnng. for you to play the marby Irish mu=. There is h t i n g and bathing on the "laughs!' And you wiU bs beiotucrad in watching a cricket game even though you find it dowu then baaekdl. Tbue i v h U y no night life. Pubs d m urly, m d thc Bmr show and jjvke joint are nonudnent You will fiod

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motion-picture h o w $ (cinemar) in all the larger mwm; many Amutcnn f i b are shown. The t h e a m are d a d on Sunday. In fact, everything ia d a d on Svnday because of rhc dcvovr c h u r ~ h - ~ o habiu i n ~ of the population and the rwicr bluc laws. In the matter of Svodny closing, in ahcr matters of mordiv and personal conduct, the Irirh may Jccm puritanical to men used m American's frcc and rrsy ways. You wlll do well among r c r v b l e householdus m avoid men mild profanity: what parses for idle sweating among Amcric~nrm y S W I ~ Cthc Irish as real blasphemy and, therdorr, denrive. Anything which borders, howcvu faintly, on the indecent is h e r I h -id. The church is an important ~ c hinstitution l in Ulrtcr. Often a town of ~ o , w owill havc 15 n 16 churches, and wen those nor munbcn of 1church make a point of attending Sunday service; besides feeling the need of spiritual uplift they know they will meet thcir friends and there. In the m d l towns some church.graupr often add an operrair Saturday night meting to the calendar of xrvic.s.You will be interested in rhcx Saturday "ight meetings; country pcaplc who have come to town with thcir produce wander from one shop to the other

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(IRISH FREE

ST4TE I

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nrremrl

while cornets and drums play gorpcl hymns in the main street,and the preacher s p k r from a wcll-plnccd soap box. You arc more than welcome in the churches. Nothing will rrmblish friendlier darian. bcovm you and thc Ulster pcoplc than going to church wlth them. Freedom of warhip is guamtccd everywhere in Ireland m d Britain, just as it ir in the United States. In America-a you know-wc usually mke it for g r a d that xnnc pcoplc go to one church m d some w another. Thc Irish, where religion is concerned, rake nothing for g r a n d . Church d i a i o n is a serious thing. Thcrc an 430,wo Roman Catholio in Ulster, 390,000 P ~ u b y m h r 3,45,members of the Church of lrcland (Pmrcrtmt E p i w a p h ) , 55,wo Methodim, and C,ooo of 0th- faiths. Rcligiour differences and politid di&rcn=s ue imp arable in Ireland; theg have been made one and the m e by years of internal bitterness,strife, and violence. You will diwovcr that Protcstanu usually do not minglc with Cath. olicr nor C~tholiuwith Pmtesrano. They move in quite diffucntcirdcs rociplly, and they have few mntlcmevcn in buincss. Don't uy to bridp this chasm. W m r and bmer cquippcd pmplc than you havc dismvcd that lrcland L one place where inmention ir m b h d , howcvcr well

intended.

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July ra-known simply as The Twclfth-is m important date in Ulster. This is the anniversary of the Battle of the Boyne which, as you know,crtablishcd Protestant kings on hghnd's throne. Celebration of the day Is led by the ~ e r f uOranec l Ordcr, a Protcrtlnt political and f r e u r d and there are parades and dcmonrmtionr throughout the six counties. Politid feelingsrun high end dashes ktw- Protcrrant dcmon~tratorsand their Cathe lic fcllow.counuymcn are n a uncommon. Summing up: Religion is a matter of public as well as private conurn in Ulster and you11 k wix not w talk about it. In A m e r k we ask, "Whcrc do you corn from? In Ulster they ask, "What chvrch do you belong to?"If the qucrrlon is put to you, tell the m t h a d then changc the sq,ct. A.OYT

AlPUMIITS

THE Irish lave w talk. Conversation is thc m a s highly pcrf=ted form of cnuminmenr: Although clau dutinstionr arc imwrtmt in Northern Irelmnd-thc lvge landowners, pmfcrsional men, indurtrkliso, tradesmen, f u m crs, hborcrr, all accept their allotted placer in the aaial sebup--there is a dcmocrlcy of sdf