2008 New Mineral Powder Color Training Compiled from Robert Jones Notes + DVD from MK Cosmetics – thanks Sue Golden

It’s ok to wear red lips with red clothing   

Some shades are for layering and are meant to change your other lip colors: Sheer Blush, Mocha Freeze, Golden and Pink Shimmer Wear layering shades over lipstick for more change Wear layering shades under lipstick for less change

Bronzers:  Sandstone and Bronze Diva are Matte and add warmth and even out the skin tone  Matte look more natural on ivory/beige skin  Good for contouring  Shimmer is great for bronze/ebony skin and adds natural highlights  Desert Sun and Canyon Gold are shimmers  Can be used on eye lids for a natural summer glow on any skin tone  Can use the light or the dark depending on the season and your skin tone When used on Ivory/beige skin tones, bronzers provide a sun-kissed effect. Apply where the sun would naturally hit your face: top of forehead, cheeks nose, shoulders and decollete. 

Highlight powders

Pink Porcelain is matte and strictly for ivory/beige skin Pink Stardust is shimmer and is ok for ivory to bronze skin Shimmer attracts attention to flaws and large pores Pink Stardust can be used on brow bone as a highlighter Powder will not reflect light like our highlighting pen Apply either shade to the area of the face you want to highlight: tops of cheekbones, down center of the nose, above the center of the upper lip (gives lips a pouty look). Use Pink Porcelain only on areas you want to brighten. It can also be used in the same way as the facial highlighting pen. Apply:     

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under eyes to brighten at sides of nose below the lower lip at the crease of the chin to make lips pout On the chin if you have a heart-shaped face to help make the chin look wider and balance the face

Highlighting pens   

Bring forward recessed areas of the face Ours is the best highlighting pen and the only one with the newest light reflecting properties Paint only on the recessed area and blend with your finger

Sheer Mineral Pressed Powder    

Not to be used as a foundation Not for Coverage It is only for setting foundation and touch up during day Always blot before you powder

Foundation Coverage Most Sheer Tinted Moisturizer Loose Mineral Powder Medium Coverage Full Coverage Day Radiance Crème to Powder Most Coverage     

If the person tans easily they are an olive skin tone (ends in 02) If the person is pink in the face and in the neck they need a color ending in 04 If the person is pink in the neck and not in the face they need a color ending in 05 Orange Undertone ends in 07 Brown Undertone ends in 08

Robert Jones Workshop Notes– 3/1/08 Product Knowledge 

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Frosted Eyeshadow – Completely covers skin with mica and it completely covers the lines one color. It is not good for older skin. Shows wrinkles Shimmer Eyeshadow – Do not cover the skin with one color. Goes on more sheer. Matte – No sheen, most natural looking

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Color Conversion Chart – Online at www.simplebeaute.com

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We are the #1 selling lipstick in 2006

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In 2002 we began being makeup artist driven

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Estee Lauder owns 13 lines and it tool all of them to do 2.7 million to our 2.3 million in 2006

Choosing Eye Makeup Colors #1 Eye Color You want to choose a color that contrasts your eye color Grey eyes are really pale in color and need depth around them to make them glow Hazel eyes are a combination of colors so you should pick the color you want to bring out Amber eyes should be considered green when choosing colors #2 Skin Tone Depending on the depth of skin tone you will choose colors at a different depth level as well. (Paler for pale skin, more intense for darker skin) #3 What you are wearing Put on your makeup as though you are wearing white and then layer a color that complements the color you are wearing over it. Eyeliners        

Ours are waterproof and can be dunked in water and not come off If it won’t go on your eyelid smoothly, it needs warmed up between your fingers You can sharpen them on paper or on the back of your hand To prevent color travelling, powder foundation and powder concealer under eye or powder over the liner to keep it in place If you line along your bottom lashes you must line along your top Eyeliners are only for the eye Liquid is the most dramatic, and should only be used on the top Define the bottom lashes if you have under eye puffiness

Brows      

We have the best eyebrow pencil in the industry Classic blonde is lighter and blonde is darker and taupier Brunette is the perfect shade for brunettes, it is directly between blonde and chestnut Soft Black is more of a dark brown Auburn is good for natural or chosen redheads The sharper the pencil the better the application

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Powder on top will keep them on longer Silver grey should use classic blonde or blonde Bronze/Ebony should use brunette It is better to go lighter than darker with your eyebrows Match your hair color if it is a different shade from your eyebrows

Blush    

Designed to add color to your face and brighten Plum Dazzle and Brick are only for bronze/ebony women The color you flush to is the darkest you should go Sunny Spice is the only blush color staying when the colors change

Mascara         

The football shape is the most versatile brush shape (in our ultimate mascara) it lengthens and thickens the lashes Ultimate mascara makes them thicker, fatter and longer Lash Lengthening conditions with vitamins, but it is not as building Waterproof is triathalon tested You can layer waterproof over the others to make them more waterproof You should change your mascara every three months. Ultimate should be changed every 2 months because building mascaras dry out faster If your customer does not use it all the time, consider giving them disposable wands to use so that they do not put bacteria into their container and have to throw it out as soon. Smart Wipe leaves more on the brush. If you want to layer you should wipe some off of the wand If you have sparse lashes, don’t use mascara on them, smudge liner there instead.

Lip Pencils 

Dark Chocolate and Cappuccino are for bronze and ebony skin only

Lipstick  

We have one of the longest wearing lipsticks on the market Dark Brown, Rick Cocoa, Rich Fig are all for bronze/ebony skin

Choosing Lipstick Shades #1 Lip Size and Shape Dark shades are thinning Light shades make your lips look fuller

#2 Depth of Skin Tone Brighter, warmer shades will make you look younger Darker colors are more aging Choose a lighter color for fairer skin and deeper for darker skin #3 What you are wearing Don’t always need to match what you are wearing Sometimes contrasting is good It’s ok to wear red lips with red clothing    

Some shades are for layering and are meant to change your other lip colors: Sheer Blush, Mocha Freeze, Golden and Pink Shimmer Wear layering shades over lipstick for more change Wear layering shades under lipstick for less change There are 3 types of lip color: Crème, Shimmer and Frost

New Eyeshadows       

Shy Blush Eyeshadow has just a hint of color Golden Copper is for darker skin Shades that are staying are: Crystalline, moonstone, spun silk, hazelnut, cinnabar, vintage gold and espresso (which is the darker shade of double espresso) Honey Spice is a shimmer Sweet Cream is a matte Sienna can be used as a midtone for darker skin or an accent for fairer skin Granite is a pink/grey

Eyeshadow   

Highlight only on the lid and brow Midtone up and all the way across the inside of the crease Accent is the fun color and should be used 1/3 to ½ of the way across and along the lower lash line and into the crease

Eyelashes   

Curl, Curl, Curl Hold wand vertically for length Hold wand horizontally and move side to side and up for volume

False Eyelashes  

Curl your natural lashes Line your lid

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Look down in the mirror Cut off two tufts of the lashes Use surgical adhesive along the line you made Place lashes with tweezers onto the adhesive Follow with mascara

Blush    

Start at the place where the top of your ear meets your head Pull down to the middle of your apple Pull back up to your ear Then blend by moving your brush up and down

Lips    

Use foundation to erase the lip line before lip colors to make them look bigger If you want to keep gloss from bleeding, put lip primer AROUND the lip line and not inside it. If you want to keep your lipstick on longer, apply primer on and around the lips People who have a lot of lip lines can stain their lips by applying color to their finger and patting it onto their lips.

BRIDES Morning Bride  Lighting is softer with a blue tint  Everything will photograph darker  Use warmer shades  Define the lashline really well Midday Bride  Harshest Light  No sheen – keep her matte  Highlight should have shimmer  One of your three shades should be matte  Keep liner as close to lashline as possible  Blend A LOT Late Afternoon  Best lighting  Creates a golden glow  Can do stronger color choices  Look into the light for photographs  Add color to the skin (bronzer or blush is a must)

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No frost because of the flash (it will reflect) Dramatic eyeliner Rich lips

Evening Bride  More defined because of flash  Put more color in cheeks  Highlighting and contouring are essential  False eyelashes are good  Smokey eye is ok (nude lip works well with it)

(Favorite picture shown, evening bride was wearing white sand, spun silk, vanilla eyesicles, hazelnut, and double espresso dark)

Bronzers: This info is a repeat of info at the beginning    

Sandstone and Bronze Diva are Matte Matte look more natural on ivory/beige skin Shimmer is great for bronze/ebony skin Desert Sun and Canyon Gold are shimmers

Highlight powders: This info is a repeat of info at the beginning    

Pink Porcelain is matte and strictly for ivory/beige skin Pink Stardust is shimmer and is ok for ivory to bronze skin Shimmer attracts attention to flaws Powder will not reflect light like our highlighting pen

Highlighting pens   

Bring forward recessed areas of the face Ours is the best highlighting pen and the only one with the newest light reflecting properties Paint only on the recessed area and blend with your finger

Sheer Mineral Pressed Powder   

Not to be used as a foundation Not for Coverage It is only for setting foundation

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Always blot before you powder

Loose Mineral Powder  

Tap some in the lid, then swirl your brush in it, tap on the lid to remove the excess, apply on skin in little circles The more you buff, the more it blends

Foundation Coverage Most Sheer Tinted Moisturizer Loose Mineral Powder Medium Coverage Full Coverage Day Radiance Crème to Powder Most Coverage Foundation            

First number is the depth level The last two digits denote the undertone It is always our goal to match the neck. Most women with pink or redness in the face do not have it in their neck Our foundations are transfer resistant, which means that you have to let it dry before judging the color Bronze to Ebony need to be striped from the cheek to jaw Ivory Beige need to be striped over the jaw and neck Only true daylight bulbs will give you a true idea of the color choices (or stand in daylight) If the person tans easily they are an olive skintone (ends in 02) If the person is pink in the face and in the neck they need a color ending in 04 If the person is pink in the neck and not in the face they need a color ending in 05 Orange Undertone ends in 07 Brown Undertone ends in 08

Contouring     

Need 3 colors – regular shade, highlight shade (1 level lighter), contour shade (1 level darker) Use highlight inside the “oval” of the face Use Contour outside the “oval” of the face Ivory/Beige needs more contouring Bronze/Ebony needs more highlighting

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For Facial Masking apply 3 shades across the cheek. Find 2 colors: one that makes an area on her light skin the same as one of the striped areas on her darker skin Put the darker shade on her light skin and the lighter shade on her dark skin

Concealing         

Color inside the lines Stipple, Stipple, Stipple For a scar apply moisturizer, powder and then concealer Conceal blemishes after foundation With Acne scars, keep the skin very matte and do not use shimmer in her blush With Rosacia, conceal the general area and then conceal spots you missed Freckles need sheer coverage Undereye puffiness: Apply foundation and then highlighting pen Undereye circle: Conceal, then apply foundation, then highlighting pen if needed