Argentina & Uruguay - autumn collection | Fine Wine Writing...

http://www.jancisrobinson.com/tasting_articles/ta201309261/la...

Argentina & Uruguay - autumn collection 28 Nov 2013 by Team JR See this guide to our autumn collections. Lucky old Richard is currently in Argentine wine country but the total of nearly 100 tasting notes below were all taken in London over the last few weeks by all of us. The wine reviews are grouped by country, within each country by colour, and then in descending score order. ARGENTINA WHITE Quara Torrontés 2012 Cafayate 16.5+ Drink 2013-2015 Aromatic, dry, zesty and more than a bit Gewürz-a-like. Works really well - emphatically varietal. (RH) £9.99 RRP Luigi Bosca, Finca Los Nobles Chardonnay 2011 Luján de Cuyo 16.5 Drink 2013-2015 Creamy, buttery, smooth, nice understatement despite the obvious oak giving a long, caramelised sort of finish. Good persistence and leesy texture. (RH) 14% Familia Schroeder, Alpataco Chardonnay 2012 Patagonia 16 Drink 2013-2014 Very pronounced tropical fruit – pineapple chunks, cream, apple. Slightly over-acidic perhaps? Very enjoyable all the same. (RH) 13% Michel Torino, Don David Finca La Mercedes #35 Chardonnay 2012 Cafayate 16 Drink 2013-2015 Little bit of sulphidic matchstick reduction, toasty but balanced oak, pure and well defined green citrus fruit. Nicely done – modern, controlled, enjoyable. (RH) 14% Catena Zapata, Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay 2011 Luján de Cuyo 16 Drink 2013-2015 Lovely ripe pineapple fruit and no overshadowing oak. Soft, chewy texture. Cooked apples. (RH) 14% O Fournier Sauvignon Blanc 2012 Uco Valley 16 Drink 2013-2015 100% Sauvignon Blanc grown south of Mendoza in the Uco Valley on very poor, sandy loam soils at an altitude of 1,100m. Vines are cordon trained, 14 years old and planted at a density of 3,007 vines/ha. Grapes were hand-harvested with a yield of 8,000 kg/ha in mid-Feb into 18kg crates and the clusters were sorted twice on arrival at the winery. Cold macerated for 8 hours at 6 - 8 °C then fermented in stainless steel tanks for 10 days at 10 °C. No malolactic and aged for 6 months on lees in tank. Winemaker José Spisso. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans. TA 6.75 g/l, pH 3.35, RS 1.8 g/l. Mild nose and very clean and racy with a bone dry finish but a bit too discreet to make a massive impact. 12% £13.99 Waitrose Viñalba, Reserva Chardonnay 2013 Mendoza 16 Drink 2013-2015 Nice satin texture and sufficient fruit and acidity. Very competent and without anything offensive even if low on distinguishing marks – just a slight suggestion of wet stones with all that body. Well done overall. 14.5% £11.99 Majestic. Buy 2 bottles each £9.99 until 3 Feb 2014 Pulenta Chardonnay 2012 Mendoza 15.5 Drink 2013-2014 Almost honeyed fruit. Very ripe. Leesy dairy character in the middle – seems as if it's had the full malolactic treatment. Fragrant, exaggerated. (RH) 13.5% Sumun, Almarada 2012 Uco Valley 15.5 Drink 2013-2015 Pleasantly restrained – manages to creep in under 13% alcohol, and the resultant refreshment factor works well. Not especially interesting, but at least drinkable. (RH) 12.9% Almalaya, Blanco de Corte 2012 Salta 15.5 Drink 2013-2014 85% Torrontés, 15% Riesling. Lovely floral grape juice nose. Not sure what the Riesling adds, but this is very enjoyable as a Torrontés. Chock-full of aromatic refreshment. (RH) 13.5% La Riojana, Tilimuqui Single Vineyard Torrontés 2013 Famatina Valley 15.5 Drink 2013-2015 100% Torrontés from the La Riojana co-operative, the world’s largest producer of certified Fairtrade, organic wines. Named after a village located in a poor, remote area of La Rioja province and home to many of La Riojana’s workers, Tilimuqui is a place which is seeing the direct benefits of Fairtrade projects. Grapes were harvested by hand in Feb early in the morning to avoid the heat of the day, pressed in pneumatic bag presses and fermented with selected yeasts at a controlled temperature of 15 - 18°C with 3 pumpovers per day. No malo, no oak, only lees stirring. Clarified using bentonite. Chief winemaker Rodolfo Griguol. Suitable for vegetarians. TA 6.30g/l, pH 3.3, RS 5.10g/l. Really fragrant, liquid soap character. Dry, refreshing, flavoursome. Very particular aromatic flavour that verges on the artificial, but that shouldn't detract from its mainstream appeal. (RH) 12.5% £7.99 Waitrose Viñalba, Reserva Chardonnay 2013 Mendoza 15+ Drink 2014-2015 Green apple, very spritzy – very young. Should harmonise with some bottle age, but there don’t seem to be huge amounts of complexity there at the moment. (RH) 14% Séptima, Obra Chardonnay 2012 Uco Valley 15 Drink 2012-2014 Buttery and over-ripe. Seems very old fashioned nowadays. Impressive flavour power – but getting less relevant. (RH) 13.5% Rutini, Encuentro Chardonnay 2012 Uco Valley 15 Drink 2013-2014 Buttery and spritzy. Pretty good structural balance, but unremarkable fruit. (RH) 13.2% Finca Sophenia Chardonnay 2012 Uco Valley 15 Drink 2013-2014 Popcorn and toffee nose. Lots of smoky oak, and a ripe stone fruit à la Viognier. Won’t please traditionalists, but is valid enough as a mainstream drink. (RH) 13.5% Trivento, Golden Reserve Chardonnay 2012 Uco Valley 15 Drink 2013-2014 Not as oaked as the name led me to believe. Decent freshness. Slight bitterness isn’t very charming. (RH) 14% Tapiz, Reserve Chardonnay 2011 Uco Valley 15 Drink 2013-2015 Banana, cream, butter. Off-dry. All very commercial. Expensive. (RH) 14% Finca Flichman, Paisaje de Tupungato 2012 Uco Valley 15 Drink 2013-2015 Modern, clean stone fruit. Juicy, soft. The wine equivalent of a foam ball. Squishy and a bit boring. (RH) 13.2% Ampakena Viognier 2011 Tulum Valley 15 Drink 2013-2015 Interestingly reductive – from Viognier at this age, this is most unusual. Doesn’t have Viognier’s opulence either – and the lowish alcohol and high acid suggests picking

1 of 5

11/28/13 3:29 AM

Argentina & Uruguay - autumn collection | Fine Wine Writing...

http://www.jancisrobinson.com/tasting_articles/ta201309261/la...

before full ripeness. Atypical. (RH) 13% Don Cristóbal 1492 Verdelho 2013 Mendoza 15 Drink 2014-2015 Youthful green fruit character. Pretty low acid. Not bad, just a little universal and generic. (RH) 13% Pulenta Pinot Gris 2013 Mendoza 15 Drink 2014-2015 Youthful, underripe citrus aromas. Odd – what is this trying to be? It’s sort of neither Grigio nor Gris. Rather, it’s neutral white wine with an easygoing, drinkable profile. (RH) 13% François Lurton, Gran Lurton Corte Friulano 2011 Mendoza 15 Drink 2013-2015 A blend of Sauvignon Vert, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Torrontes. Partially vinified in oak. Not so sure what 'partial' actually translates to in this wine, but it smells and tastes like the oak has been applied with a heavy hand. Bitter. Hard to drink. Perhaps it would be better with food? (TC) 13% Del Río Elorza, Verum Chardonnay 2012 Patagonia 15 Drink 2013-2016 Leesy and a bit creamy - light and charming. Has the same sort of neutral appeal as basic Chablis. (RH) 13.5% £13.49 RRP Santa Ana Sauvignon Blanc 2013 Mendoza 15 Drink 2013-2014 Not much nose but very lively and with some freshness. Definitely overpriced at the full price but GV at the reduced one. 13% £8.99 Majestic. Buy 2 bottles each £5.99 until 3 Feb 2014 Santa Florentina, Selección Reservada Fairtrade Pinot Gris 2013 Famatina Valley 15 Drink 2013-2014 Slightly oily and sweaty but fair enough. Peaches. A real fruit salad even if not the most complex wine ever! 12.5% £8.50 Corney & Barrow Argenceres, Lágrima Chardonnay 2012 San Rafael 14.5 Drink 2013-2014 Neutral fruit with a grapefruit bitterness on the palate. Rather sharp. Plain. (RH) 13.9% Doña Paula Chardonnay 2012 Uco Valley 14.5 Drink 2013-2014 Buttery, creamy, slightly underweight fruit. Not the most charming Chardonnay. Rather bitter finish. (RH) 14.1% Trapiche, Las Palmas Chardonnay 2011 Uco Valley 14.5 Drink 2012-2013 'YAC' yet another Chardonnay. Grist to the ABC mill. Some toffee elements, and a crowd-pleasing ripeness, but nothing especially vinous. (RH) 14% Bressia, Monteagrelo Chardonnay 2011 Luján de Cuyo 14.5 Drink 2013 Quite heavily oaked, in an un-integrated, unsubtle way. Wrongheaded. (RH) 14% Monteviejo, Lindaflor Chardonnay 2012 Uco Valley 14.5 Drink 2013-2014 Spoofy oak scent and overripe fruit. No definition, no class. A triumph of extraction over interest. (RH) 15% Ruca Malen Chardonnay 2011 Mendoza 14.5 Drink 2013-2015 Easy, round but a bit dilute. Slightly oily. 14% £12.50 Corney & Barrow Norton, La Colonia Chardonnay 2011 Luján de Cuyo 14 Drink 2013-2014 Boring, neutered cold fermentation neutrality. Unbalanced, clumsy structure. (RH) 13% Carlos Pulenta, Vistalba Tomero Chardonnay 2012 Uco Valley 14 Drink 2013-2014 Pinched, underripe fruit. Sour finish. (RH) 14% Ruca Malen Chardonnay 2011 Uco Valley 14 Drink 2012-2013 Very soft dairy character on the nose – not even butter, but butter substitute. Clumsy acid, fake fruit. (RH) 13.5% Kaiken, Ultra Chardonnay 2011 Uco Valley 14 Drink 2012-2013 Buttery, pineapple, creamy. Very worked. Overdone, with immodest acidity. (RH) 14% Las Moras, Finca Viognier 2013 San Juan 14 Drink 2013 A bit tarty on the nose, salty on the palate and altogether very uncomfortable to taste. Industrial-tasting, especially on the finish. 14% £7.99 Majestic RED Catena Zapata, Agrelo Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Mendoza 17+ Drink 2013-2023 Attractive blackcurrant juiciness and a nicely done chocolate and cedar character. Smoky, aromatic, lengthy – really well made. Classic Cabernet acidity, very natural seeming balance. (RH) 13.5% Weinert, Cavas de Weinert 1997 Mendoza 17 Drink 2010-2017 40% Malbec, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot. Bright dark ruby with a glowing rim. Lovely subtle candied violets nose. Very sweet and round and this would make a great special bottle for a celebration – Christmas? Fully evolved and clean enough. Round and punchy. Lots of layers. Well picked up! Revitalising finish. 14.5% £49 per magnum The Wine Society Caligiore, Nature's Legacy Malbec 2010 Mendoza 17 Drink 2013-2020 From vines planted in 1930. 18 months in barrique. Serious stuff - but mercifully not overextracted. Toasty, rounded, drinkable - appetizing. GV because it shows a premium Malbec that doesn't rely on sheer mass. (RH) 13.9% £17.99 RRP Trapiche, Gran Medella Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Uco Valley 16.5+ Drink 2012-2018 Has the sort of eucalypt and menthol blackcurrant character that evokes Coonawarra, which is no bad thing. Pretty straightforward palate, but attractive fruit and good definition. Moreish. (RH) 14.5% Viñalba, Reserva Malbec 2012 Mendoza 16.5 Drink 2013-2017 Dark crimson. Florally perfumed and transparent. A world away from the Malbec of five years ago. Lifted and lively. Great personality. Crafted by a Frenchman! GV 14.5% £11.99 Majestic. Buy 2 bottles each £7.99 until 3 Feb 2014 Chakana Bonarda 2012 Luján de Cuyo 16.5 Drink 2013-2018 Rich, chocolatey and complex. Lovely breadth and ripeness with a savoury undercurrent. Dry finish, medium grain tannins. A good example of New World fruit with a drinkable, gastronomic sensibility. (RH) 14.2% Mauricio Lorca, Foster Limited Edition Malbec 2007 Mendoza 16.5 Drink 2012-2017 Very pleasant leafy lift with a bit of menthol too – more complex than the standard Malbec recipe of fruit, fruit and fruit. Juicy, ripe, soft tannins. Intrusive alcohol, but if high-powered Malbec is what you're after, this shows some enjoyable diversity of flavour. (RH) 14.9%

2 of 5

11/28/13 3:29 AM

Argentina & Uruguay - autumn collection | Fine Wine Writing...

http://www.jancisrobinson.com/tasting_articles/ta201309261/la...

TintoNegro, 1955 Vineyard Malbec 2011 Uco Valley 16.5 Drink 2013-2020 Unnecessarily heavy bottle. Juicy raspberry fruit – quite different from the dense Malbec norm, and refreshing therefore. At ‘only’ 14% this is mercifully drinkable too. (RH) 14% Doña Paula, Alluvia Malbec 2010 Uco Valley 16.5 Drink 2013-2023 Unnecessarily heavy bottle. Minty, meaty, chocolate. Juicy raspberry fruit – very accessible and not too overwhelming on the palate. Has some subtlety (in context of the style!) (RH) 14% Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista Malbec 2009 Uco Valley 16.5 Drink 2013-2023 At last – Malbec with some nuance and sensitivity. Delicious and drinkable black fruits, just a pinch of tannin and a good, subtle decay. (RH) 14% Benegas, Lynch Cabernet Franc 2006 Mendoza 16.5 Drink 2012-2020 Very heavy bottle. Attractive bronzing garnet and a true varietal leafy black fruit. Chocolate. This is maturing properly and the tannin is in lovely balance for drinking now. I would almost boycott it over the grossly heavy bottle, but if you want good New World Cabernet Franc, this should be on the list. (RH) 14% Norton, Privada Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 Luján de Cuyo 16.5 Drink 2013-2020 40% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot. Some mintiness, and a sweet milk chocolate character. Pleasant, malleable tannins. Enjoyable. (RH) 14.5% Manos Negras, ZaHa Altamira Malbec 2011 Mendoza 16.5 Drink 2013-2017 Predominantly sandy and silty soils with some limestone. Zaha is made by ex-Catena viticulturist and winemaker Alejandro Sejanovitch. Aged in barrel for about a year. 90% Malbec, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. A wine for Man United and Crystal Palace fans? Lots of energy and finesse on the nose. Massively round without being speciously sweet. It does taste like essence of Mendoza Malbec. Well done! 14% £22 The Wine Society Manos Negras, TeHo Altamira Malbec 2010 Mendoza 16.5 Drink 2014-2020 Made from four different lots of wine from three different types of soil (sand, silt and rock). The Malbec is principally from a vineyard planted in 1955. There is also 6% Petit Verdot and 4% Cabernet Franc co-fermented with the Malbec. More complex than the Zaha but also chewier. Quite a price for a wine without, presumably, a track record. I can’t help thinking of other wines at this price but there is certainly lots of effort… 14% £39 The Wine Society Colomé, Estate Malbec 2011 Calchaquíes Valley 16.5 Drink 2013-2018 85% Malbec, 8% Tannat, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Syrah from vineyards at 1,700 - 2,600m altitude, planted at 4,000 vines/ha. Climate is dry with little rain, just 120 mm p.a. and a marked diurnal temperature difference which aids the retention of natural acidity. Soils are sandy with layers of gravel aiding drainage. Grapes were hand-harvested at 6 tonnes/ha in late April into 12 kg boxes. Hand-sorted twice on arrival at the winery. Fermented slowly then an extended maceration period of 25 - 30 days. Malo occurred half in barrel and half in stainless steel tank, then matured for 15 months in 20% new and 80% 2nd fill French oak. Bottled August 2012. Winemaker Thibaut Delmotte. pH 3.8, RS 2.8 g/l. DWWA 2013 Gold Medal. Blackish crimson. Salty and a hint of rusty nails plus masses of distinctively high altitude fruit. Lots to chew on! 14.5% £17.49 Waitrose Ruca Malen Petit Verdot 2010 Mendoza 16.5 Drink 2013-2017 Lovely freshness and direct appeal. Racy and lively. Could serve as an object varietal lesson! Long. GV 14% £12.50 Corney & Barrow Terrazas de los Andes, Cheval des Andes, Vistalba 2007 Mendoza 16 Drink 2012-2017 Rich, juicy, fragrant. Loaded with plummy, ripe flavour but does not have the depth or complexity that justifies the price. Actually pretty elementary. (RH) 14% Colomé, Auténtico Malbec 2011 Luján de Cuyo 16 Drink 2013-2019 Juicy, youthful red fruit. Raspberry, redcurrant – almost Grenache-like, if it weren’t for the deep crimson colour. Pleasant pepperiness. It’s all conducted at a high volume, but there is at least some nuance. (RH) 14% Achaval-Ferrer Malbec 2012 Mendoza 16 Drink 2013-2017 Bright crimson. Big and beefy. Sweet but not over the top. Floral. Superior. 14.5% £15.50 Corney & Barrow Weinert, Carrascal 2008 Mendoza 16 Drink 2013-2017 A blend of 40% Malbec, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot aged two years in foudres and six months in vats before bottling. Bright ruby. Some evolution. Headily sweet nose with fermented (metal not human) nail juice. Gloriously distinctive. And not at all expensive. It will presumably always be a bit chewy but it delivers on distinctiveness. GV 14% £7.95 The Wine Society Dominio del Plata, Susana Balbo Signature Malbec 2011 Mendoza 16 Drink 2013-2016 90% Malbec with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon from an excellent-quality, cool harvest. Aged 13 months in 80% new French barrels and 20% second use. Bright purple. Refined and very direct. Clean and bracing. Very brisk. 14.5% £12.95 The Wine Society François Lurton, Piedra Negra Reserve Malbec 2011 Mendoza 16 Drink 2014-2017 Smells a little like leather glue. Black coffee and treacly dark sugar. More molasses than fruit, very dense, savoury, a deep tangy spice that reminds me of dark old furniture, polished to satin glow. Elegant tannins. Just falls away a little too quickly, leaving a light bitterness. (TC) 14% Del Río Elorza, Verum Selección de Familia Cabernet Franc 2011 Patagonia 16 Drink 2013-2016 Bright blueberry fruit on the nose. Smooth and rounded palate. Very pleasant, but perhaps a bit generic? Doesn't exactly trumpet its variety. (RH) £17.99 RRP Algodon Malbec 2008 San Rafael 16 Drink 2013-2016 There's some lovely maturation on the nose, showing how Argentinian Malbec can move beyond it's primary fruit - but the alcohol is rather warm. Structurally, this is bursting at the seams. (RH) 15% £19.99 RRP Caligiore Bonarda 2011 Mendoza 16 Drink 2014-2020 Very youthful fruit - black and vibrant. More interesting than many a Malbec. Smooth finish. (RH) 13.9% £11.99 RRP Noemia, A Lisa 2012 Río Negro 16 Drink 2013-2020 Deep, bright, savoury, floral, soft and textured. Bang on target for Argentinean Malbec. Yielding and supple. (RH) 14% Achaval-Ferrer, Quimera 2011 Mendoza 16 Drink 2014-2020 Called after a mythical animal. Blend of Malbec with Bordeaux varieties in this case. Lighter than the Malbec. Racy. Very salty and dry. Appetising. 14% £25.95 Corney & Barrow Achaval-Ferrer, Finca Mirador 2008 Mendoza 16 Drink 2012-2019 This is one of their three single-vineyard Malbecs. Quite heady and very low yielding but not very appetising. Sour and a tad heavy. Fades a bit suddenly. 14% £57.75 Corney & Barrow

3 of 5

11/28/13 3:29 AM

Argentina & Uruguay - autumn collection | Fine Wine Writing...

http://www.jancisrobinson.com/tasting_articles/ta201309261/la...

Cobos, Felino Malbec 2012 Mendoza 15.5 Drink 2014-2017 Sweet and soft and lively. £13.99 RRP Pascual Toso, Alta Malbec 2011 Maipú 15.5 Drink 2013-2018 Rich, drenched in fruit with a sweet oak overlay. Made not grown. Gratifying, and not without a certain meaty complexity, but values fruit above all else. (RH) 14.3% Swinto, Old Vines Malbec 2010 Luján de Cuyo 15.5 Drink 2013-2018 There’s a certain animal funk to this nose which gives it some nasal interest. Heavily extracted palate is pretty standard and therefore too samey. Shame – this could have been more interesting. (RH) 14% Kaiken, MAI Malbec 2008 Uco Valley 15.5 Drink 2012-2016 Unnecessarily heavy bottle. Milk chocolate, creamy texture, dark black bramble fruit. Heavy, thick, potent. Attritional. (RH) 15% Argenceres, Dramatis Personae Selecto Reserva 2010 San Rafael 15.5 Drink 2013-2015 40% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah. Chocolate, blackcurrant. Lacking substance. Decent balance, but one-dimensional. (RH) 14.1% Gouguenheim, Flores del Valle Malbec 2007 Mendoza 15.5 Drink 2012-2015 Salty and round. Lightly perfumed. Just a tad rusty nail. 14% £15.99 Adnams Finca Flichman, Reserve Malbec 2012 Uco Valley 15.5 Drink 2014-2016 100% Malbec from Finca Flichman estate vineyards located in Barrancas, at 700 m above sea level, and in Tupungato, at 1,100m, where the unique climatic conditions at the very foot of the Andes lend additional acidity and complexity to the wines. The grapes were handpicked, fermented over 9 days and then enjoyed 6 months ageing in French and American oak casks and a further 3 months in bottle. Winemaker German Berra. Suitable for vegetarians and vegans. TA 4.45 g/l, RS 2.2 g/l. IWC 2013 Bronze Medal. Bright crimson. Hint of oak on the nose and lots of flat sweetness plus salt and a hint of iron filings. 14% £9.99 Waitrose Fabre Montmayou, Gran Reserva Malbec 2009 Mendoza 15.5 Drink 2013-2017 50-year-old vines, 12 months in barrels. Packs a powerful punch on the nose - macerated cherries and dark chocolate and a floral perfumed top note. Sweet, cherry menthol liqueur, and very alcoholic. Lots of concentration, but just overwhelmingly alcoholic. (TC) 15% Del Río Elorza, Verum Pinot Noir 2012 Patagonia 15.5 Drink 2013-2016 Tame palate with a slight stink on the nose. Smooth and light and drinkable, but not for thrillseekers. (RH) £13.49 RRP Caligiore Malbec 2011 Mendoza 15.5 Drink 2013-2015 Violets and black bramble jam with a light oak dusting. Very much par. (RH) 13.9% £11.99 RRP Viñalba, Gran Reserva Malbec 2011 Uco Valley 15 Drink 2013-2018 Incredibly dark purple. Violets and spice on the nose and very jammy fruit. Intense, heavyweight. Would be easy to tire of, like music played constantly fortissimo. (RH) 14.5% Zuccardi, Aluvional La Consulta Malbec 2008 Uco Valley 15 Drink 2012-2018 Black bramble fruit. Very soft and with a definite portiness and alcoholic sweetness. Only for die-hard Malbec hedonists / sadists. (RH) 15.3% Rutini, Apartado Malbec 2008 Uco Valley 15 Drink 2013-2018 Unnecessarily heavy bottle. Dense black fruit, smooth tannic feel, some burnt character (from sunburn, possibly?) The wine is as overweight as the bottle. (RH) 13.9% Algodon, Old Vine Malbec/Bonarda 2009 San Rafael 15 Drink 2013-2015 Very heavy bottle. Rather dull fruit. Doesn't get the best from either variety. Nothing unpleasant about it, just too nondescript. (RH) 14.5% Ruca Malen Malbec 2011 Mendoza 15 Drink 2013-2016 Rich and round. Easy and leathery. Not complex. 14.5% £12.50 Corney & Barrow Achaval-Ferrer Malbec 2012 Mendoza 15 Drink 2013-2016 Savoury but with some oak rather obvious. Tastes a bit floral and slightly tarty though this could always be due to the grape. 14.5% £15.50 Corney & Barrow Waitrose Malbec 2012 Mendoza 15 Drink 2013-2015 100% Malbec from fruit carefully selected from prime Mendoza vineyards. Blend made in conjunction with Waitrose South American buyer Nick Room, a little oak character adds complexity. Muted. Cooked fruit. Generic New World red. Nothing wrong with it, just somewhat plain. (RH) 14% £8.99 Waitrose Luigi Bosca, Finca Los Nobles Cabernet Franc 2009 Luján de Cuyo 14.5 Drink 2012-2014 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc. Crude black fruit. Hard tannins. Un-pleasurable. (RH) 14.5% Don Cristóbal 1492 Bonarda 2012 Mendoza 14.5 Drink 2013-2015 Closed nose, soft texture on the palate. Not much going on. Smooth but a bit featureless. (RH) 14% Trivento, Eolo Malbec 2010 Maipú 14.5 Drink 2013-2018 Unnecessarily heavy bottle. Chocolate, raisined fruit. Has got fresh acidity, but doesn’t quite hold together. Furry tannins. Hard work. (RH) 15% Ruca Malen, Kinien 2009 Mendoza 14.5 Drink 2014-2017 Sweet and coffee and not very appetising. Damp fur. Sickly finish. 14.5% £22.50 Corney & Barrow Walter Bressia, Profundo 2008 Luján de Cuyo 13 Drink 2013 50% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Shiraz, 10% Merlot. Slightly bruised fruit here – and very low level TCA. Not in good condition. (RH) 14.5%

URUGUAY WHITE Bouza Albariño 2012 Montevideo 17 Drink 2013-2015 Five hours' pre-fermentation maceration at 5 ºC. 15% fermented in French oak, the rest in tank. Fragrantly fresh with definite richness, almost reminds me of a smaragd-style Austrian Grüner Veltliner on the nose – that slightly spicy and delicately oily citrus character but there is more fragrance and less spice here. Full bodied and full in the mouth with impressive weight and density but no heaviness. Very very long with the scent of apricot and orange on the fresh, lively, spicy finish. A serious white wine. (JH) 13.5%

4 of 5

11/28/13 3:29 AM

Argentina & Uruguay - autumn collection | Fine Wine Writing...

http://www.jancisrobinson.com/tasting_articles/ta201309261/la...

Garzón Albariño 2012 Maldonado 15.5 Drink 2013-2014 Bodega Garzon is a label of a big company called Agroland, one of two producers to have invested in this new region in Uruguay that is heavily influenced by close proximity to the Atlantic. Plenty of varietal apricot aroma, matched on the scented mid palate. Fresh and fruity, not complex but the very, very slight tannic grip on the finish adds interest. This combination of location and variety shows good potential. (JH) 13.4% RED Bouza, Monte Vide Eu 2011 Montevideo 17.5 Drink 2016-2024 Horribly heavy bottle – worse than the other reds. Tannat/Merlot/Tempranillo blend. Varieties vinified separately and aged 8-14 months in oak. Fine, complex aroma of both red and black fruit and subtle oak spice. Very slightly spirity on the nose. Tannins are finer than on the varietal Tannat and Tempranillo yet still quite compact and dense. Definitely has the potential for elegance with some more time in bottle. Pretty oaky now but I hope that will become more of a support than an overlay as the wine ages. Has Uruguay's hallmark freshness even with all this ripeness of fruit and high alcohol. Very ambitious. (JH) 15.5% Juanicó, Familia Deicas 1er Cru d’Exception Tannat 2004 Canelones 17.5 Drink 2010-2020 This wine has since been renamed Massimo Deicas (see note on the 2008). Pointlessly heavy bottle. Deep garnet with the beginning of brick at the rim. A hint of undergrowth but still has lots of dark fruit with a wild, sweet freshness and some cedar fragrance. Rich, chewy and deep in fruit. Tannins resolved but still giving a firm outline. Clearly very ripe but the underlying freshness creates harmony and elegance. Good length. (JH) 14.5% Juanicó, Familia Deicas Preludio Barrel Select Lote no. 92 2009 Canelones 17- Drink 2014-2020 Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Plus 2% Marselan from 2002 on. 24-30 months in French oak. Fascinating to taste this alongside the 1999. Deep garnet. Ripe, dark and aromatic fruit and a cedary oak tone. Oak is to the fore still (toasty) and the tannins pretty firm and dry. Like the 1999, it is somehow abrupt on the finish but looks set to age in a similarly attractive way. Minus just because the finish is a little disappointing. (JH) 13.5% Juanicó, Familia Deicas Massimo Deicas Tannat 2008 Canelones 17+ Drink 2015-2023 Ridiculously heavy bottle, even worse than the 2004 1er Cru d'Exception, which has been renamed as Massimo Deicas - named after the family ancestor from Italy's Valtellina, who came to Uruguay in 1870. Hand destemmed, cold maceration for a few days, ambient yeast, malo in new French oak, where the wine spends 18-24 months. No fining or filtration. Very deeply coloured with black core. Intense and youthful aromas of black fruit – cassis and the wildness of elderberry – plus toasty/mocha oak. Oak feels heavy handed still but, having tasted the 2004, I can see it will subside with time. Chewy, rich, just fresh enough and a fine example of ambitious Tannat that has not lost the freshness of its origin. Needs time. (JH) 14.5% Bouza, B9 Merlot 2011 Las Violetas, Canelones 17 Drink 2015-2021 Unnecessarily heavy bottle. Bottle number 1965 out of 1982. 11 months in new French oak. Bottled unfiltered. Deep crimson. Lovely pure fruit on the nose – ripe plum and red fruits and just a touch of oak spice, the oak not able to overwhelm the fruit's intensity. Firm but rounded tannins, freshness more marked than on the Tempranillo despite the much higher alcohol, which is remarkably just in balance. Ripe, moreish and long. (JH) 16% Juanicó, Familia Deicas Preludio Barrel Select Lote no. 50 1999 Canelones 17 Drink 2014-2020 Tannat, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. 24-30 months in French oak. Tasted alongside the 2009, and shows a strong family likeness. Deep ruby core with a brick rim. This smells fabulous. It has plenty of undergrowth but the original richness of ripe fruit is still there, baking spice, together with a complex amalgam of wild flowers and woodland. Tannins are dry, fully resolved, a little abrupt at the very end but really impressive in its harmony in age. I don't think it is going to get much better and it's lovely now. (JH) 13% Bouza, B15 Tempranillo 2011 Las Violetas, Canelones 16.5 Drink 2015-2018 Bottle number 829 out of 2000. Single vineyard. 10 months in US barrels. Bottled unfiltered February 2012. Unnecessarily heavy bottle. Deep crimson. Smells both sweet and savoury (almost meaty) but intense primary fruit still apparent. Velvety but quite thick tannins that still need time to become more silky. Plenty of sweet oak spice and rich red fruit flavours. Concentrated and well made but there's some heat on the finish and only just enough freshness to counteract the sweet flavours, otherwise I would have scored it higher for the fruit quality and careful winemaking. (JH) 13.5% Bouza, B6 Tannat 2011 Las Violetas, Canelones 16.5 Drink 2015-2021 Unnecessarily heavy bottle. 14 months in new US oak. Bottled unfiltered October 2012. Sweetness of US oak dominates the nose. Lots of vanilla over the ripe cherry fruit. Rich and mouthwatering but I find the oak just too much. The fruit is obviously wonderful and I wish it had the opportunity to sing a little more loudly. Chewy, ripe, well-managed and refined tannins. Maybe with a few years in bottle it will. (JH) 16% Bouza, Coco 2011 Uruguay 16.5 Drink 2013-2016 Unnecessarily heavy bottle. A blend of barrel-fermented and nine months lees-aged Chardonnay with fresh Albariño blend. Bottle 1,540 out of 1,680. The nose is rich and creamy, a little buttery. Technically dry, I believe, but quite honeyed on the palate. There's freshness too, even with that honey character. Creamy lemon fills the mouth. Intense, well crafted, avoids heaviness but somehow lacks energy. Maybe it needs to lose some puppy fat. (JH) 14% Juanicó, Familia Deicas Atlántico Sur Selección Especial Tannat 2011 Maldonado 16.5 Drink 2013-2016 Garzón Vineyard in the Valle de los Manatiales, near Punta del Este, c 22 km inland from Uruguay's east coast. Sandy, loamy soils of weathered igneous rock and metamorphic granite. 15-20% slopes. Deep crimson. Fresh, bright, slightly herbal dark fruit though fully ripe and some vanilla-oak sweetness. Very good balance of deep freshness and juicy but not simple fruit, with firm but not aggressive tannins. Very satisfying and longer than the Marselan. (JH) 13.8% Juanicó, Familia Deicas Atlántico Sur Selección Especial Marselan 2013 Maldonado 16 Drink 2014-2016 Garzón Vineyard in the Valle de los Manatiales, near Punta del Este, c 22 km inland from Uruguay's east coast, an area pioneered by Deicas. Sandy, loamy soils of weathered igneus rock and metamorphic granite. 15-20% slopes. Marselan is a Cabernet Sauvignon x Grenache cross. Deep cherry red. Lively, aromatic, small-berried dark fruit with the sweetness of cherry and a touch of vanilla. Smells almost more like fresh fruit than wine. All the freshness you would expect from Uruguay and especially from this vineyard so close to the ocean. Juicy with the best of both parents – sweet fruit and finely chewy tannins. Not terribly long but plenty of immediate pleasure. (JH) 14.2% Garzón Tannat 2011 Maldonado 15.5 Drink 2013-2015 Bodega Garzon is a label of a big company called Agroland, one of two producers to have invested in this new region in Uruguay that is heavily influenced by close proximity to the Atlantic. Deeply coloured and smudgy at the rim, as if not filtered. Marked aroma of oak – both mocha and char but there's plenty of dark fruit too. Excessively sweet oak on the palate, really overdone, which is a shame because the fruit is nice but the sweetness undermines the unique freshness that should be here. Firm rounded tannins. Dial back on the oak make-up and this could be so much more refreshing. Definitely in the barista style that was a trend not long ago in S Africa (eg Diemersfontein). (JH) 14.6%

5 of 5

11/28/13 3:29 AM