05 5:54 PM Page 1. Rapid Flashing. Installation guide

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RED912 - RFB_29_04

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Rapid Flashing Installation guide

RED912 - RFB_29_04

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Rapid Flashing Installation guide

Contents Introduction Lorem ipsum dorem.

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Introduction / Product Specification

Product Specification Lorem ipsum dorem.

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Profile Tile Lorem ipsum dorem.

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Slate Range Lorem ipsum dorem.

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Plain Tile Lorem ipsum dorem.

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Side Abutments Lorem ipsum dorem.

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Technical Data

Rapid Flashing Product Description The practical guaranteed universal product for professional abutments at walls, chimneys, rising parts of structure (e.g. dormers) and other abutments on the roof. This allows The surface is smooth and dirt-repellent. The toughness, which results from the material quality and the rib mesh insert of high-quality aluminium, extended all the way to the edges, can be felt at once.

Material

Temperature stability -40˚C to + 100˚C in accordance with DIN 52133 UV-resistance In accordance with DIN 16726 and DIN 16731 Colours Width Weight Packaging

improved dimensional stability

can also be laid with standing seam

Polyisobutylen (PIB) with high quality aluminium rib mesh insert and butyl adhesive edges

Mid grey (lead Colour) 280mm and 370mm 5m roll: approx. 5kg 10m roll: approx. 10kg 2 rolls of 10m each or 4 rolls of 5m each

Seal-compound-K Material Transparent one-component sealant on the basis of synthetic caoutchouc (free of silicon), adheres without a primer, also in humid conditions

lead colour

self-welding, hence no soldering required

less sensitive to pollution

smooth and dirt repellent surface better workability colour fastness

For more information on our products and services visit 4

www.lafarge-roofing.co.uk

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Profile Tiles

Profile Tiles

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1.

Cut a piece of Rapid Flashing so that it extends either side of The chimney by minimum 150mm or over a full pan and roll whichever is the greater.

3.

Return the top section around the Chimney. Fold into brickwork forming a cup shape in the brick joint. Fold the lower section down onto the tile, form into the profile of the tile and stick down.

2.

Add in next course of tiling.Fold material into the profile of the tile and stick the base down.to form the corner cut from the outside corner diagonally to the chimney corner, stopping short by 15mm.

4.

Cut a piece of Rapid to the length of the chimney. Ensuring that the bottom edge is lined up with the bottom of the apron. The top should extend the back of the chimney by 35mm.

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Profile Tiles

Profile Tiles

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5.

Place side piece sop that it covers. The tile by 150mm or by one pan and roll which ever is greater. To form the corner cut 15mm out from the corner up the line of tiling then vertically up the chimney.

7.

Once the steps have been cut start molding the membrane to the profile of the tile. Return the 15mm up-stand around the front of The chimney to form the front corner.use a roller if necessary to seal the seam.

6.

Form the step as you do with lead.Having the step the same angle as the roof pitch, cut back to the water line(65mm). Ensure at least 25mm excess is left to be turned into the brickwork joint.

8.

Once steps have been turned into the brick joints. Peel protective strip off and mould into the profile of the tile. Once finished use plumbers mate to bed the joints in.For back gutter follow steps 915 in the Plain tile section.

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See section 2 for Back Gutters.

1.

Fit a timber fillet to the rafter to the height of the tiling batten. Fix additional noggins to side of rafter to support batten end fixing.

3.

Cut a length of Rapid Flashing so that it extends the width of the chimney by minimum 150mm each side. Measure out 15mm from corner of chimney up to the external corner of rapid and cut.

2.

Batten up to the abutment/chimney, leaving battens 60mm short to allow for secret gutter.

4.

Fold the material round the corner of the chimney. Trim off the apron corner if so desired. Peel off protective strip and stick down. Fold the rapid flashing into the brickwork (forming a cup section in the brick joint).

Slate Range

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Slate Range

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Slate Range

Slate Range

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5.

Cut a section of Rapid Flashing 460mm long. Offer this section up and bend so that It covers the slate by a minimum of 150mm.

7.

Form the corner, pressing hard with your thumb. Once the corner is formed, ensure the shape of the secret gutter is formed. Welt over the side of the soaker. Once in position stick down.

6.

Mark 15mm out from the front of the chimney and Draw a vertical line, stopping 15mm short from the face of the slate.

8.

Cut a section of GRP Gutter (9596) to be level with the back of the chimney and have a head lap over the soaker by 150mm. Fix the secret gutter to the battens. (If using Cambrian Slate fix Verge clips (9193) at this point)

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Slate Range

Slate Range

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9.

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Slate into the side abutment leaving the slates 20mm from the abutment. It may be necessary to remove the nib closest to the secret gutter.

11. Form step flashing working to a minimum water line of 65mm (as shown). Step into brickwork, folding Excess into the joint by forming a cup section in the brick joint.

10. Cut a piece of rapid flashing to the length of the chimney, extending 35mm beyond back of chimney. Measure out 15mm from front of chimney and draw a line vertically, then a line following the angle of tiling. Cut this section out.(do not stick at this point).

12. Stick down and follow contour of slate. IMPORTANT: do not let the side flashing go beyond the end of the slate. A weep hole is left at this point. To form back gutter follow steps 9-15 in the plain tile section.Use plumbers mate to bed joints.

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Plain Tile

Plain Tile

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1.

Line up tiles either side of chimney and draw/strike a line. This line represents the overlap of the apron. If this is less than 150mm draw a line at 150mm.

3.

Measure 15mm out from brickwork in the bottom corner and draw a line up to the external corner. Cut along this line.

2.

Cut a piece of rapid so that it is long enough to extend past the chimney by a minimum of 120mm either-side. Fold into the brickwork forming a cup section in the joint. once in position, stick down.

4.

Fold the top section around the corner of the chimney and form into the brick joint. Fold lower section onto the tile and stick down. Now tile in next course.

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Plain Tile

Plain Tile

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5.

Cut a piece of rapid 295mm to form the corner soaker. Mark out 15mm from the corner of the chimney and draw a line vertically and then down following the line of the tiling. Cut this section out.

7.

Do this for both sides of the chimney. Round off the corners of the apron and corner soaker if so desired. Front apron is now complete.

6.

Mold the 15mm return around the front of the chimney and down the exposed section of the tile. Pressing firmly to ensure the seam has welded.

8.

Tile in next course. Cut a piece of rapid 195mm long. Offer up to the chimney ensuring the soaker covers a minimum 120mm over the tile.Form into the brickwork, and stick in place. (the soaker should not show beyond length of tile).

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Plain Tile

Plain Tile

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9.

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Repeat these steps until the Abutment is complete.Cut a piece of rapid 260mm long. Cut this piece in half (cutting following the line of butyl).

10. Take these squares of rapid and fold them up to the brick joint being used. Extend the square of Rapid over the corner by the width of the butyl strip (as seen in step 9)

11. Mold the butyl around the corner pressing firmly, forming the corner.Do this on both sides of the chimney.

12. Cut a piece of rapid long enough to extend the chimney either-side by 120mm.Measure in 10mm from the outer brickwork. Draw a line vertically, and cut.Ensure tilting fillet is in place to Form the back gutter.

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Plain Tile

Plain Tile

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13. Fold the flap around and down the tiling. Form into the brick joints as previously done.Then press firmly and mold to the shape of the tilting fillet. Once you are happy with the position peel off the protective strip and stick down. Using a roller if necessary. Welt over the back edge and sides.

15. Use plumbers mate to bed in the Brick joints. Note: If at any time the Rapid is not wide enough. Rapid can be welded together to increase the width. When joining two pieces of Rapid together, press firmly using a roller to ensure seams are welded.

14. Finish tiling around the chimney in the normal manner, ensuring all perimeter tiles are mechanically fixed. 22

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Profile Side Abutments

Profile Side Abutments

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1. Depending on construction of side abutment if maybe necessary to form an external corner. Cut a piece of Rapid to form an apron, with a minimum upstand of 75mm and headlap of 150mm, to your required length. Turn into the brickwork forming a 'U' shape in the brickjoint, allow at least 25mm of material for this. To form the corner, measure 15mm out from brickwork in the bottom corner and draw a line up to the external corner. Cut this line, when in position strip off protective strip and stick into place. Use a roller if to achieve the profile finish.

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2.

Tile into the side abutment, finishing no more than 30mm from the side abutment. Cut a strip of rapid flashing at a manageable length (any joining pieces to have a minimum lap of 150mm) Side cover over the tile must be a minimum 150mm or a full pan and roll which ever is greater. (do not stick down at this point)

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Profile Side Abutments

Profile Side Abutments

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3.

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To form the return of the corner, mark a vertical line 20mm out from the brickwork. The second line follows the line of the tiling 20mm above the tiles, cut this section out. Use a roller to for the profile of the tile.

4.

Form the step as you do with lead, having the step the sme pitch of the roof, cut back to the water line (65mm). Ensure 25mm excess is left to be turned into the brickwork joint. Cup the excess material into the brickjoint forming a 'U'shape. Once in the correct position peel off the protective strip and stick down. Use Plumbers Mate sealant to fill in the brickwork joints.

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Slate Side Abutments

Slate Side Abutments

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1.

Felt up to the side of the abutment, with a 50mm up-stand.

3.

Fix in place a GRP secret gutter (9596) to discharge into main gutter.

2.

Finish the battens 60mm from the side of the abutment. Noggins may be necessary to provide a support fixing to the end of the battens.

4.

If using Cambrian Slates verge clips will need to be positioned and fixed into place at this point. Slate into the side abutment leaving no more than a 30mm gap between slates and sideabutment

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Slate Side Abutments

Slate Side Abutments

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5.

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Depending on construction of side abutment if maybe necessary to form an external corner. Cut a piece of Rapid to form an apron, with a minimum upstand of 75mm and headlap of 150mm, to your required length. Turn into the brickwork forming a 'U' shape in the brickjoint, allow at least 25mm of material for this. To form the corner, measure 15mm out from brickwork in the bottom corner and draw a line up to the external corner. Cut this line, when in position strip off protective strip and stick into place. Use a roller if to achieve the flat finish.

6.

Cut a piece of Rapid Flashing at a manageable length (any joining pieces must have a minimum lap of 150mm). Minimum side lap over the slates is a 150mm. To form the corner, mark 15mm out from the front of the abutment and draw a vertical line. The second line follows the line of tiling 20mm above the tiles. Cut this sections out, form the corner by pressing the excess around the corner ensuring the seam has welded.

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Form the step as you do with lead, having the step the same pitch of the roof, cut back to the water line (65mm). Ensure 25mm excess is left to be turned into the brickwork joint. Cup the excess material into the brickjoint forming a 'U'shape. Once in the correct position peel off the protective strip and stick down. Use Plumbers Mate sealant to fill in the brickwork joints.

Plain Tile Side Abutments

Slate Side Abutments

Plain Tile Side Abutments

RED912 - RFB_29_04

1.

Depending on construction of side abutment if maybe necessary to form an external corner. Cut a piece of Rapid to form an apron, with a minimum upstand of 75mm and headlap of 150mm, to your required length. Turn into the brickwork forming a 'U' shape in the brickjoint, allow at least 25mm of material for this. To form the corner, measure 15mm out from brickwork in the bottom corner and draw a line up to the external corner. Cut this line, when in position strip off protective strip and stick into place. Use a roller if necessary to achieve the final flat finish.

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Side Abutments Tile in the next course, finishing tiles no more than 20mm from the side abutment. Form the return soaker by cutting a piece of Rapid 295mm long. Mark out 15mm from the corner of the chimney and draw a line vertically and then down following the line of the tiling, cut this section out.

3.

Mold the 15mm return around the front of the chimney and down the exposed section of the tile, pressing firmly to ensure the seam has welded.

Plain Tile

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Plain Tile Side Abutments

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Plain Tile Side Abutments

Plain Tile Side Abutments

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4.

Tile in the next course. Cut a piece of rapid 195mm long. Offer up to the chimney ensuring the soakers covers a minimum 120mm over the tile. Form into the brickwork and stick into place, ensuring the rapid is forming a 'U' shape into the brick joint. The soaker should not be seen beyond the length of tile. (ensure that the lowest point of flashing is not below the 65mm waterline)

5.

Repeat step 4 until the abutment is complete. Use plumbers mate to bed the Rapid Flashing into the brickwork joints.

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For further information please contact or visit:

United Kingdom

www.lafarge-roofing.co.uk Sales Enquiries/Orders

08705 601000*

Telephone E-mail [email protected]

Technical Solutions

01285 863636

Telelphone E-mail [email protected]

Republic of Ireland

www.lafarge-roofing.ie Sales/Technical Solutions

01 450 2796*

Telephone E-mail [email protected] * When calling the Customer Service Hotline your telephone conversations may be recorded for training purposes.