-- PVC Vs. Hypalon Fabric - What is the difference?

-- PVC Vs. Hypalon Fabric - What is the difference? There are 2 main types of fabric that 99% of the inflatable boats on the planet are made of. They ...
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-- PVC Vs. Hypalon Fabric - What is the difference? There are 2 main types of fabric that 99% of the inflatable boats on the planet are made of. They are .... PVC, and Hypalon. At SeaBright Marine we sell both types of boats so you can be sure that we have the boat that is right for you. As is the case with most things there are Pros and Cons to both ....

PVC Pro--significantly less expensive then Hypalon Con-- won’t last as long in the direct sunlight as Hypalon before it starts to break down (if left unprotected). Con-- does not tolerate gasoline spills as well as Hypalon.

Hypalon Pro-- will last significantly longer than PVC when exposed to prolonged periods of direct sunlight. Pro-- will tolerate fuel spills better than PVC Con—significantly more expensive then PVC There is no doubt that PVC fabric won’t last as long as Hypalon fabric if the boat will be subjected to prolonged periods of direct sunlight and no measures have been taken to protect the PVC fabric from the sun (i.e. boat cover or UV spray). After a number of years in direct sunlight the PVC fabric will become sticky. After that it will become crusty and discoloured. Finally it will crack and begin to leak. Here are some things to consider............ 1) This is not a problem unless your boat is going to be outside and unprotected all summer, every year. If you only use the boat occasionally such as on weekends or while on vacation then it isn't a factor at all. Even if you leave your boat outside all the time the issue can be solved by putting a sun/rain cover on your boat when it isn't in use or by applying a UV protective spray periodically (such as AeroSpace 303 Protectant). Any inflatable boat dealer (including us) can sell you a cover that is designed to fit your boat. If you are willing to take the necessary steps required to protect your PVC boat then you can take advantage of the significantly more attractive pricing points that we are able to offer with our PVC boats. 2) Keep in mind that the 2 most well known inflatable boats sold in Canada (for legal reasons we cannot name them here) are PVC boats. Both of these dealers also offer Hypalon boats but the vast majority of the boats that they sell are PVC. 3) Hypalon inflatable boats are significantly more expensive. On average a Hypalon inflatable boat will cost you 50 to 75 percent more than a PVC inflatable boat that is comparable in size and equipment options. However, if the intended use for your boat will involve long periods of exposure to sunshine and if you are not inclined to cover or protect the boat when it isn’t in use then perhaps the added expense associated with a Hypalon boat will make practical sense for you. • Please note that as of 2008 all of our PVC boats are being manufactured with genuine Mehler-Valmex® PVC from Germany. Mehler-Valmex® PVC is widely regarded in the industry as being the premium quality PVC fabric available in the marketplace today, and is the PVC fabric of choice for most high quality inflatable boat companies. • Please note that as of 2008 all of our Hypalon boats are being manufactured with genuine Achilles T10® Hypalon from Japan or genuine Pennel ORCA® Hypalon from France. These 2 Hypalon fabrics are widely regarded in the industry as being the premium quality Hypalon fabrics available in the marketplace today, and are the Hypalon fabrics of choice for most high quality inflatable boat companies. Whether you ultimately choose a PVC inflatable boat or a Hypalon inflatable boat, you can be sure that SeaBright Marine Ltd has the boat to serve your needs. We are confident that after you do your research you will agree with us that in each case our products represent the best value in Canada.

- How do I provide Proper

Care for my SeaBright inflatable boat ?

Taking care of your SeaBright inflatable boat is easy. During the Season:

• •

Keep your boat clean and free of debris and grime. Check the bottom regularly to make sure there is no excessive build up of marine life.



UV Radiation is - The Number One Enemy of PVC Inflatable Boats o With this in mind, We recommend that you cover your boat when it will not be in use for extended periods of time. While we realize that it is not practical to cover your boat every time you get out of it, if the boat is not going to be used for several days it is advisable to cover it. o Temporary protection from the sun can also be achieved by applying AeroSpace 303 Protectant® or Aurora Polyguard®. These products are very effective but must be reapplied periodically in order to maintain their effectiveness.



Sunscreen - from the arms and legs of your passengers can be harmful to PVC fabric. o Care should be taken to ensure that sunscreen is washed off of the boat promptly. Applying Aurora Polyguard® to your inflatable boat will protect it from damage due to sunscreen.



Fuel Spills and Engine Exhaust - can damage the fabric of your Inflatable Boat. o Take care to clean up fuel spills promptly if they ocurr. o If using a davit system you should position your Inflatable Boat so that it will not be subjected directly to exhaust fumes.

End of Season:

• • • • • •

If you have a foldable inflatable boat remove your high pressure air floor or sectional aluminum floor. You will need to partially deflate the boat to get the floor out. Reinflate the boat without the floor installed. Wash your entire boat with warm soapy water or a boat wash product that is approved for use on the fabric that your boat is made from (PVC or Hypalon). Allow the boat and accessories to dry thoroughly. Store your boat in a dry location *** Notes*** o It is not necessary to store the boat deflated. If space is not an issue it is perfectly fine to leave your boat inflated during off season. o Your boat should be clean and dry. o It is not necessary or store your boat in a heated area. o Make sure that your boat is not stored "wet", especially if it will be subjected to freezing conditions during storage. Freezing and thawing water can damage the seams of the boat.

*** CAUTION *** Never





use "Armor All®" on your boat

Never use any product that contains silicone on your inflatable boat, such as "Armor All®". Applying silicone to your boat will make it extremely difficult in the future to apply a patch to your inflatable boat should it ever need repair. Even years later it will be difficult to successfully apply a patch. Do not use any product on your inflatable boat that is not approved for use on the fabric that

your boat is made from (PVC or Hypalon). When in doubt check with the product manufacturer to make sure that the product will not harm the fabric. Always make sure that the product does not contain silicone.

============================================================ -- What Products are safe for my SeaBright inflatable boat ? Here is a list of products that we recommend for use on your SeaBright Inflatable Boat. None of these products will damage your boat or inhibit the ability to apply patches to your boat should it be necessary at a later date. More information on 303 Aerospace Protectant® is at http://www.303products.com/ More information on Aurora® products is at http://www.auroramarine.com/



Good, old fashioned soap and water - Cleaner o For regular dirt and grime this is still the best method, and the most economical



Aurora Speed Clean® - Cleaner o Quickly & Easily Removes Stubborn Dirt, Grime, Stains, Oxidation & Scuffs From All Inflatable Boat Surfaces o Best PVC and Hypalon, and fibreglass cleaner available on the market o Easy to Use: Wipe away tough Dirt & Stains with a Damp Sponge or Brush o Removes Scuffs, Chalking, Oil, Diesel, Soot, Oxidation, Stains, Bird Droppings, etc o Safe for Hypalon, PVC, Fiberglass & Stainless Steel o Environment Friendly and Biodegradable



303 AeroSpace Protectant® - Protectant o UV Inhibitors: Protect Against UV Damage, Chalking and Fading o Protects fabric from "color fade"



Aurora PolyGuard® - Protectant o UV Inhibitors: Protect Against UV Damage, Chalking and Fading o Protects fabric from "color fade" o Protects PVC fabric against damage caused by sunscreen from the arms and legs of your passengers. o 2 Coats Provides 4-6 Months of Boating Season Protection o Fast and Easy to Use: Wipe On and Let Dry o Luxurious Shine o Protects Against Dirt, Grime, Diesel, Soot, Stains, Stains Bird Droppings and More o Made from a Space Age Polymer - Does NOT Contain Silicone or Wax o Not Greasy: No Slip Sliding Around - Won't stain clothing



Aurora Repelin® - Prevent Marine Growth o Prevents marine growth (Algae, Barnacles & Zebra Mussels) on PVC, Hypalon, and Fiberglass o Easy to Apply - Two Coats Lasts All Season o Perfectly Clear: No Discoloration of Your Boat o Hard, Smooth, Flexible Surface: Won't Rub Off When You Beach Your Boat. - Won't Rub Off on Your Skin o Reduces Fuel Consumption & Improves Maneuverability o Environment Safe & Biocide Free o Wipe On & Wipe Away Haze for a Super Slippery Protective Barrier ƒ ** NOTE ** DO NOT Apply Repelin Directly to PVC or Hypalon - Clean Inflatable with Speed Clean - Apply 2 coats Poly Guard to all PVC or Hypalon

surfaces & allow a minimum 24 hours to cure. Failure to follow this guideline may make it difficult to apply a repair patch in the future should the need arise.



Aurora Inflatable Boat Bottom Spray® - Remove Marine Growth o Removes Algae, Barnacles & Zebra Mussels from tubes & RIB's o Worlds 1st Bottom Cleaner Made for Inflatable Boats o Spray directly onto marine growth, brush & rinse away o A Clean Boat Bottom Equals Better Performance

============================================================ -- How do I Repair

a leak in my PVC inflatable boat ?

Small repairs and the addition of small accessories may be attempted by the owner if factory gluing instructions are followed closely. Rips or holes larger than one inch in the air chambers or within two inches of a seam should be repaired with internal and external patches by a professional repair technician at a certified repair facility. Recommended solvent: MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). It is often available at paint, hardware or plumbing stores, sold as a cleaner for PVC pipes or lacquer thinner. For non-critical bonds you might substitute acetone. Glue: Your boat came equiped with a tube of one part PVC glue. This glue will work well for very small holes (pin holes) but for larger holes or seams you should use two part PVC glue. Do not use glue that is not specifically intended for PVC fabric. Hypalon glue will not bond properly with PVC. Humidity: Humidity must be less than 70%. Temperature: Do not glue in direct sunlight. Temperature should be between 64 and 77 degrees F. Preparation:

• •

Gather rags, glue brush; solvent; timer with second hand or stop watch; make sure all the old glue is cleaned off; get your patch cut out, position noted and marked. It always leaves a neat tidy finish if you tape off the perimeter of the patch area with masking tape to avoid over glue. If using a 2 part glue, mix accelerator and glue thoroughly either now or while waiting between the solvent wipes below. Accelerator is toxic; keep off skin. Keep mixed glue covered (foil or wax paper) when not using. Pot life is about 1 hour. It may still look liquid, but will have lost effectiveness.

Solvent Cleaning: (3 times - to prepare the fabric for a chemical bond with the glue)





Scrub both sides (boat and patch or accessory) with MEK on a rag to clean surface. Be careful not to wipe the MEK on areas of the boat or patch that will be seen as MEK will make the fabric sticky and shiny. Use masking tape around the perimeter to minimize this. Wait 5 minutes after the first MEK wash. (time it) Apply two more solvent wipes with 5 minute waiting time (timed) between them. You are preparing the fabric for glue adhesion. Abrading these PVC fabrics is not recommended or necessary.

Glue Application: (3 thin layers)



Apply a thin glue layer with stiff brush to both sides. Aggressively work it into the fabric with the

• • • • • •

brush. If it looks too thin, it is probably correct! Wait five minutes (timed) If glue still looks wet, wait longer. Repeat the 2 steps above (total of 3 layers with 5 minute open time between) Wait 10 minutes after third layer of glue. Join the surfaces during the next 10 minutes. Start from one edge and slowly lay the patch or accessory down onto the glued area. Press out all air bubbles and wrinkles from the center to the edges. On deflated boat rub as hard as possible with smooth tool, e.g. the back of a large tablespoon - force air out from between boat and patch. Careful not to scratch the fabric. For davits and hard based accessories, deflate boat and press through from other side to make sure of adhesion. Wipe off excess glue with solvent.



If over 10 minutes or if glue has spots of white haze the glue has picked up moisture and you should try to "reactivate" it. With a clean rag wet the glue surface with MEK but do not rub the glue off (one quick swipe). Then assemble immediately. Press hard. For accessory on an inflated boat you can rub it down vigorously with a rag. Make sure there is no MEK on the rag when using it to run down the part or patch.



Wait at least 48 hours before use.

• •

Pressure test if you want to be sure. Blow it up to full pressure. Leave it overnight. Go boating!

Never fiddle around with these. Bond strength drops very rapidly with heat or high humidity. Take your boat indoors. Don’t even think about trying to glue on the dock or near the water or in direct sunlight. Professionals use a specially built, climate controlled room, and still don’t attempt to work on a rainy day. Note (when using a 2 part PVC glue): The solvents in the glue must evaporate before assembly. When ready to assemble parts, the glue must not be tacky at all to the finger. It must not have spots of whitish glaze. If so, you may have spread the glue too thick, not waited long enough between coats, or a sudden drop in temperature or gust of humid air may have occurred. Someone may have opened the door, or you may have leaned too close and breathed on it. Plan to stay in the room until finished. If using small cans ( 1/4 L) mix the entire can with the dose of accelerator. Inaccurate measurement will weaken the glue. Once opened the accelerator cannot be kept. Do not try to save it. The quality of your final bond depends on it. Apply glue with a paint or glue brush with the bristles cut short (1/2 to 3/4") so they are stiff. It must be natural hair (i.e. OK for lacquer); bound in metal not plastic; preferably with wooden or metal handle. Careful not to get glue on areas of your boat besides the repair area. Old glue must be completely removed -- solvent, sandpaper, scraping, grinding with a Dremel tool. Glue will not stick to old glue. Clean it off thoroughly. Be careful not to burn or melt the fabric if using a Dremel tool. Constant motion with the tool will prevent this problem. If your boat has ever been protected with ArmorAll® or another silicone or petroleum based product, you may have great difficulty getting a bond. Wipe the repair area well with MEK, follow the gluing instructions closely and hope for the best. To find tiny leaks, take floor boards out, inflate boat hard. Put some liquid detergent in a bucket of water and with rag or big wash brush, scrub it all over boat. Keep watch for elusive, tiny bubbles. When you find the first leak, keep looking. You might as well fix them all at the same time! Remember, the number one cause of slow leaks is a poorly seated valve. Unscrew, clean. Make sure little rubber O-rings are good. They are the cheapest repair possible. If patching, cut patches 1 to 2 " larger than tear in each direction and round the corners (a quarter makes

a good template for the edges). Little one inch circles pasted over a pin hole won’t last. Try to get the same fabric used by the manufacturer for your boat. The inside and outside surface may be different. If you can’t match color, sometimes a cleverly shaped patch in contrasting color can be made to look like decoration instead of a Band-Aid. e.g. arrow, lightning bolt, even a new D ring if in right spot. Professionals often put one on each side to look like they came with the boat. Inflate boat to apply accessories. Deflate to patch air leaks, even if very small. Air pressure will bubble the patch before glue sets. BE SAFE Do Not Smoke! Glues and solvents are flammable. No open flames (e.g. furnace or pilot light when working in a cellar.) Use in a well ventilated area. Fumes can be overwhelming. A carbon filter respirator is recommended. MEK solvent smells, but is relatively safe. It is recommended that you not use Toluene - the factories do but it is quite dangerous. Accelerator (small bottle) is toxic. If spilled on on your skin WASH IMMEDIATELY with soap and water. If in your eyes, IMMEDIATELY FLUSH WITH WATER for at least 2 minutes and consult a physician. (Accelerator is an isocyanate based product.) Always wear safety gear as recommended by the manufacturer of glue, solvent, accelerator, etc.

============================================================ -- How do I Repair

a leak in my Hypalon inflatable boat ?

Small repairs and the addition of small accessories may be attempted by the owner if factory gluing instructions are followed closely. Rips or holes larger than one inch in the air chambers or within two inches of a seam should be repaired with internal and external patches by a professional repair technician at a certified repair facility. Recommended solvent: The solvent used at the factories is called Toluene or Toluol. It is often available at paint, hardware or plumbing stores as a cleaning solvent. You can also use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). It is often available at paint, hardware or plumbing stores, sold as a cleaner for PVC pipes or lacquer thinner. For non-critical bonds you might substitute acetone. Glue: Your boat came equipped with a tube of one part Hypalon glue. You can also use Zodiac #7097 Universal Glue, Avon Adhesive (one or two part), Bostik® or other Hypalon or rubber glues. Do not use glue that is not specifically intended for Hypalon fabric. PVC glue will not bond properly with Hypalon. Humidity: Humidity must be less than 70%. Temperature: Do not glue in direct sunlight. Temperature should be between 64 and 77 degrees F. Preparation:

• •

Gather rags, glue brush; solvent; timer with second hand or stop watch; make sure all the old glue is cleaned off; get your patch cut out, position noted and marked. It always leaves a neat tidy finish if you tape off the perimeter of the patch area with masking tape to avoid over glue. If using a 2 part glue, mix accelerator and glue thoroughly either now or while waiting between the solvent wipes below. Accelerator is toxic; keep off skin. Keep mixed glue covered (foil or wax paper) when not using. Pot life is about 1 hour. It may still look liquid, but will have lost

effectiveness. *** NOTE *** IN ADDITION: you must abrade/scuff the fabric to remove any oxidation and to allow the glue to attain a mechanical bond to the scuffed area. Use 100 grit sandpaper or a Dremel tool. Do not cut into the threads under the protective coating. You just need to cut through the surface to allow the solvents and glue to penetrate. Some accessories rubber surfaces have been preprocessed and do not need abrading, rub just the boat fabric. Wipe clean to remove grit and residue. Solvent Cleaning: (2 times - to clean the fabric for a strong "mechanical bond" with the glue)

• •

Scrub both sides (boat and patch or accessory) with MEK on a rag to clean surface. Wait 10 minutes after the first MEK wash. (time it) Apply one more solvent wipe with 10 minute waiting time (timed) between them. You are cleaning the fabric for glue adhesion.

Glue Application: (2 thin layers 20 minutes apart)

• • • • • • •

Apply a thin glue layer with stiff brush to both sides. Aggressively work it into the fabric with the brush. If it looks too thin, it is probably correct! Wait 20 minutes (timed) If glue still looks wet, wait longer. Check for no tackiness with knuckle, no adhesive should stick to your skin. Humidity control while glue is drying is critical. Keep door closed. Don’t breathe on glue area while inspecting. Repeat the 2 steps above (total of 2 layers with 20 minute open time between) Wait 10 minutes after second layer of glue. After 10 minutes, join the parts together. Start from one edge and slowly lay the patch or accessory down onto the glued area. Press out all air bubbles and wrinkles from the center to the edges. On deflated boat rub as hard as possible with smooth tool, e.g. the back of a large tablespoon - force air out from between boat and patch. Careful not to scratch the fabric. For davits and hard based accessories, deflate boat and press through from other side to make sure of adhesion. Wipe off excess glue with solvent.



If over 10 minutes or if glue has spots of white haze the glue has picked up moisture and you should try to "reactivate" it. With a clean rag wet the glue surface with MEK but do not rub the glue off (one quick swipe). Then assemble immediately. Press hard. For accessory on an inflated boat you can rub it down vigorously with a rag with MEK on it.



Wait at least 48 hours before use.

• •

Pressure test if you want to be sure. Blow it up to full pressure. Leave it overnight. Go boating!

Never fiddle around with these. Bond strength drops very rapidly with heat or high humidity. Take your boat indoors. Don’t even think about trying to glue on the dock or near the water or in direct sunlight. Professionals use a specially built, climate controlled room, and still don’t attempt to work on a rainy day. Note (when using a 2 part Hypalon glue): The solvents in the glue must evaporate before assembly. When ready to assemble parts, the glue must not be tacky at all to the finger. It must not have spots of whitish glaze. If so, you may have spread the glue too thick, not waited long enough between coats, or a sudden drop in temperature or gust of humid air may have occurred. Someone may have opened the door, or you may have leaned too close and breathed on it. Plan to stay in the room until finished. If using small cans ( 1/4 L) mix the entire can with the dose of accelerator. Inaccurate measurement will weaken the glue. Once opened the accelerator cannot be kept. Do not try to save it. The quality of your

final bond depends on it. Apply glue with a paint or glue brush with the bristles cut short (1/2 to 3/4") so they are stiff. It must be natural hair (i.e. OK for lacquer); bound in metal not plastic; preferably with wooden or metal handle. Careful not to get glue on areas of your boat besides the repair area. Old glue must be completely removed -- solvent, sandpaper, scraping, grinding with a Dremel tool. Glue will not stick to old glue. Clean it off thoroughly. Be careful not to burn or melt the fabric if using a Dremel tool. Constant motion with the tool will prevent this problem. If your boat has ever been protected with ArmorAll® or another silicone or petroleum based product, you may have great difficulty getting a bond. Wipe the repair area well with MEK, follow the gluing instructions closely and hope for the best. Pinhole size leaks in most Hypalonfabric or PVC boats sometimes may be repaired simply by use of either Seam Seal or Air Seal liquids. You might be able to avoid a patch on the boat. To find tiny leaks, take floor boards out, inflate boat hard. Put some liquid detergent in a bucket of water and with rag or big wash brush, scrub it all over boat. Keep watch for elusive, tiny bubbles. When you find the first leak, keep looking. You might as well fix them all at the same time! Remember, the number one cause of slow leaks is a poorly seated valve. Unscrew, clean. Make sure little rubber O-rings are good. They are the cheapest repair possible. If patching, cut patches 1 to 2 " larger than tear in each direction and round the corners (a quarter makes a good template for the edges). Little one inch circles pasted over a pin hole won't last. Try to get the same fabric used by the manufacturer for your boat. The inside and outside surface may be different. If you can't match color, sometimes a cleverly shaped patch in contrasting color can be made to look like decoration instead of a Band-Aid. e.g. arrow, lightning bolt, even a new D ring if in right spot. Professionals often put one on each side to look like they came with the boat. Inflate boat to apply accessories. Deflate to patch air leaks, even if very small. Air pressure will bubble the patch before glue sets. BE SAFE Do Not Smoke! Glues and solvents are flammable. No open flames (e.g. furnace or pilot light when working in a cellar.) Use in a well ventilated area. Fumes can be overwhelming. A carbon filter respirator is recommended. MEK solvent smells, but is relatively safe. It is recommended that you not use Toluene - the factories do but it is quite dangerous. Accelerator (small bottle) is toxic. If spilled on on your skin WASH IMMEDIATELY with soap and water. If in your eyes, IMMEDIATELY FLUSH WITH WATER for at least 2 minutes and consult a physician. (Accelerator is an isocyanate based product.) Always wear safety gear as recommended by the manufacturer of glue, solvent, accelerator, etc.

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